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NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


S02075878 


Date  Due 


.00  tOQ) 

FRONTISPIECE. 
PLAN  OF  A  FBUIT  GAEDBN. 


12« 


BARRY'S 

FRUIT    GARDEN 

BY 

P.     BARRY. 
NEW    EDITION. 

REVISED  AND  BROUGHT  DOWN  TO  DATE..  BY  THE  AlJTiJO? 
XIiIiUSTRATED. 


NEW     Y  O  P  K  : 

ORANGE    J  HDD     COMPANY, 
1U06 


t  p^ti^t^J 


•sntered.  accordln?  to  Act  of  Congress,  In  the  year  1883,  by  fhy 

ORANOE   JUDD    COMPANY, 

Hm  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washingtoffi. 


PREFACE  TO   THE   REVISED   EDITION. 


In  undertaking  a  revision  of  this  work  I  found  that 
little  was  to  be  done  except  in  the  lists  of  fruits.  In 
Apples,  Petirs,  Cherries,  Plums,  Apricots,  Nectarines  and 
Quinces  only  a  few  changes  were  to  be  made.  Very  little 
has  been  done  in  the  past  ten  years  in  the  way  of  intro- 
ducing new  varieties  of  the=5e  fruits,  especially  of  such  as 
can  be  recommended  for,  or  are  likely  to  prove  worthy  of, 
extensive  or  general  cultivation. 

In  Peaches  and  Grapes  and  what  are  termed  the  ''small 
fruits":  Blackberries,  Raspberries  and  Strawberries,  a 
very  large  number  of  new  varieties  have  been  introduced. 
The.'je  are  so  many  as  to  make  it  somewhat  difficult  and 
embarrassing  to  select  from  the  mass  those  which  are 
likely  to  prove  of  permanent  value.  This  I  have  endeav- 
ored to  do.  Those  which  I  have  considered  worthy,  have 
been  added  to  the  select  lists,  while  those  which  are 
merely  promising,  or  of  doubtful  value,  are  arranged  in 
separate  lists.  Cultivators  who  possess  the  requisite  fa- 
cilities will  do  well  to  try  them  all.  This  experimental 
woi«k  is  not  only  interesting  and  instructive  to  those  en- 
gaged in  it,  but  results  are  obtained  which  must  be  of 
general  value.  Within  a  few  years  there  has  been  a  per- 
fect flood  of  new  peaches,  grapes,  and  small  fruits,  only 
a  small  number  of  which  will  stand  the  test  of  time. 
The  majority  of  them  in  a  few  years  will  be  forgotten. 
To  determine  which  are  to  be  retained,  and  which  reject- 
ed, is  a  tedious  and  expensive  work,  but  it  must  be  done. 

^^^  PROPERTY  OF 

4«.  A  E.  OO',.  '-.ETOe 


Yl  PUEFAC"    -TO    TaE    R::\-ISnD    EDITION. 

It  is  a  ])ity  that  sunc  restrictions  cannot  l.c  })ut  on  the 
introduction  of  new  sorts,  by  requiring  a  certilicute  of 
some  competent  authoritative  body.  It  must  ultimately 
come  to  this,  if  vv'e  are  to  prevent  a  waste  of  time  and 
money  on  perfectly  worthless  novelties. 

The  subject  of  manures  and  fertilizers  more  and  more 
attracts  the  attention  of  cultivators.  At  agricultural  and 
horticultural  meetings,  as  well  as  in  the  press,  it  is  a 
standing  theme  for  discussion.  This  has  led  to  a  better 
appreciation  of  their  value,  but  there  has  really  been  no 
new  light  shed  on  the  subject.  Stable  manure  continues 
to  be  the  staple  and,  where  it  can  be  had,  answers  every 
purpose.  Lime,  aslies,  and  ground  bones  are  very  good, 
and  can  he  safely  and  freely  used  to  supplement  the  pro- 
duct of  the  stable  and  barnyard. 

Manufactured  fertilizers  are  now  used  in  large  quan- 
tities; no  doubt  all  of  these  have  some  degree  of  merit, 
but  very  many  of  them,  judging  from  the  reports  of 
trustworthy  chemists  and  experimenters,  are  by  no  means 
worth  what  they  cost.  As  they  are  coming  into  such 
general  use  we  shall  soon  know  more  about  them. 

The  cultivation  of  orchards  and  fruit  plantations  has 
recently  been  the  subject  of  much  inquiry  and  discussion. 
The  result  has  no  doubt  been  in  the  main  beneficial,  al- 
though the  question  practically  remains  just  where  it  was. 
It  seems  to  have  been  settled  beyond  dispute,  by  long 
experience  and  observation,  that  the  ground,  in  all  young 
plantations,  should  be  kept  in  a  state  of  cultivation,  and 
if  cropped  at  all,  only  with  what  are  called  hoed  or  cul- 
tivated crops.  Even  these  must  be  kept  at  sufficient 
distances  from  the  trees  to  not  affect  them  injuriously, 
either  at  root  or  top.  When  trees  have  reached  the  bear- 
ing age,  the  ground  may  safely  be  seeded  down  to  grass 
and  kept  so  a  few  years.  In  this  case  the  grass  should 
either  be  fed  off,  or  kept  close  cut  like  a  lawn,  and  ma- 
nure be  frequently  applied  on  the  surface;  a  light  dress- 


PREFACE   TO    TKE    EEYIoZD    TDITIOX.  VU 

ing,  aniinally,'\vill  yield  best  resnlt-s.  My  own  experience, 
wirli  pears  esi»ee'ally,  is,  tiiat  the  largest  crops  aiul  finest 
fruit  are  obtained  by  keeping  the  ground  among  the  trees 
clean  and  well  pulverized,  but  not  so  deeply  worked  as  to 
disturb  the  roots.  Under  this  metiiod  less  manure  is  re- 
cpiired  than  when  tlie  ground  is  kept  in  grass. 

The  depredations  of  insects  continue  to  increase  and 
neither  tine  fruits,  nor  garden  products  of  any  kind,  can 
be  secured  without  prompt  and  energetic  efforts  to  re])cl 
their  attacks.  In  regard  to  those  insects  which  are  well 
known  as  enemies  to  the  fruit  groAver,  and  referred  to  in 
the  proper  place,  notliing  ne.w  in  regard  to  remedies  has 
been  discovered,  unless  it  be  the  api)lication  of  Pai-is  green 
to  prevent  the  attacks  of  the  codling  moth  on  the  apple. 
This  will  be  described  in  the  chapter  on  Insects  and 
Diseases;  while  it  cannot,  at  this  writing,  be  regarded  as 
a  complete  success,  enough  has  been  done  to  justify  us 
in  saying  that  it  is  promising.  If  successful,  it  will  be  a 
great  boon  to  the  oichardists  of  tliis  country,  whose  an- 
nual losses  by  the  ravages  of  this  pest  amount  to  millions 
of  dollars. 

I  have  here  referred  to  tiiese  subjects  at  more  length 
than  may  seem  proper,  because  it  will  naturally  be  ex- 
pected that  in  a  period  of  ten  years  of  great  activity  and 
intelligent  investigation,  some  new  light  ought  to  be 
thrown  upon  them.  I  trust  that  the  next  ten  years  will 
be  more  fruitful  in  this  respect.  P.  B. 

May,  1883. 


INTRODUCTION    TO     FIRST    EDITION. 


The  subject  of  this  treatise  is  one  in  which  almost  all 
classes  of  the  coinimiiiity  are  more  or  less  practically  en- 
gaged and  interested.  Agriculture  is  pursued  by  one 
class,  and  commerce  by  another;  the  mechanic  arts,  fine 
arts,  and  learned  ])rofessions  by  others ;  but  fruit  culture, 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  by  all. 

It  is  the  desire  of  every  man,  whatever  may  be  his  ]iur- 
suit  or  condition  in  life,  whether  he  live  in  town  or 
country,  to  enjoy  fine  fruits,  to  provide  them  for  his  fam- 
ily, and,  if  possible,  to  cultivate  the  trees  in  his  own 
garden  witli  his  own  hands.  The  agriculturist,  whatever 
be  the  extent  or  condition  of  his  grounds,  considers  an 
orchard,  at  least,  indispensable.  The  merciiant  or  pro- 
fessional man  who  has,  by  half  a  lifetime  of  drudgery  in 
town,  secured  a  fortune  or  a  competency  that  enables  him 
to  retire  to  a  country  or  suburban  villa,  looks  forward  to 
his  fruit  garden  as  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  those  rural 
comforts  and  pleasures  he  so  long  and  so  earnestly  labored 
and  hoped  for.  The  artizan  who  has  laid  up  enough  from 
his  earnings  to  purchase  a  homestead,  considers  the  ])lant- 
ing  of  his  fruit-trees  as  one  of  the  first  and  most  important 
steps  towards  improvement.  He  anticipates  the  pleasure 
of  tending  them  in  his  spare  hours,  of  watching  their 
growth  and  ])rogress  to  maturity,  antl  of  gathering  their 
ripe  and  delicious  fruits,  and  placing  them  before  his 
family  and  friends  as  the  valued  products  of  his  own  gar- 
den, and  of  his  own  skill  and  labor.     Fortunately,  in  the 

IX 


X  INTROPUCTIOX    TO    FIT.ST    P.DITION. 

ITnited  States,  land  is  so  easily  obtained  ;is  to  be  within 
the  reach  of  every  industrious  in:in  ;  and  the  climate  and 
soil  being  so  favorable  to  the  production  of  fruit,  Ameri- 
cans, if  they  be  not  already,  must  become  truly  "  a  nation 
of  fruit  growers." 

Fruit  culture,  therefore,  whether  considered  as  a  branch 
of  profitable  industry,  or  as  exercising  a  most  beneficial 
influence  upon  the  health,  habits,  and  tastes  of  the  people, 
becomes  a  great  national  interest,  and  whatever  may  as- 
sist in  making  it  better  understood,  and  more  interesting, 
and  better  adapted  to  the  various  wants,  tastes,  and  cir- 
cumstances of  the  community,  cannot  fail  to  subserve  the 
public  good. 

Within  a  few  years  past  it  has  received  an  unusual  de- 
gree of  attention.  Plantations  of  all  sorts,  orchards, 
gardens,  nnd  nurseries,  have  increased  in  numbers  and 
extent  to  a  degree  quite  unprecedented ;  not  in  one  section 
or  locality,  but  from  tlie  extreme  north  to  the  southern 
limits  of  the  fruit-growing  region.  Foreign  supplies  of 
ti-ees  have  been  required  to  meet  the  suddenly  and  greatly 
increased  demand.  Treatises  and  periodicals  devoted  to 
the  subject  have  increased  rapidly  and  circulated  widely. 
Horticultural  societies  have  been  organized  in  all  parts ; 
while  exhibitions,  and  national.  State,  and  local  conven- 
tions of  fruit  growers,  liave  been  held  to  discuss  the 
merits  of  fruits  and  other  kindred  topics. 

To  those  unacquamted  with  the  previous  condition  of 
fruit  culture  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  this  new,  plant- 
ing spiiit  has  appeared  as  a  sort  of  speculative  mania ;  and 
tlie  idea  has  suggested  itself  to  them  that  the  country  will 
soon  be  overstocked  with  fruits.  This  is  a  greatly  mis- 
taken apprehension.  After  all  that  has  been  done,  let  us 
look  at  the  actual  condition  of  fruit  culture  at  the  present 
time.  In  the  best  fruit-growing  counties  in  the  State  of 
New  York,  the  entire  fruit  plantations,  of  moie  than  three- 
fourths   of    the   agricultural    population,  consist   of   very 


INTROr>lT(  TlON"     lO    lIliST    EDITION'.  XI 

ordinary  orchards  of  ap|)lcs.  Not  a  dish  of  fine  pears, 
plums,  cherries,  apricots,  grajtes,  nor  raspberries,  has  ever 
appeared  on  their  tables,  and  not  a  sti'p  lias  yet  been  taken 
to  produce  them.  People  are  but  beginning  to  learn  the 
uses  of  fruits,  and  t'>  a[)preciatc  their  importance, 
"  At  one  time  apples  were  grown  chiefly  for  cider ;  now 
they  are  considered  an  indispensable  article  of  food.  The 
finer  fruits,  that  were  formerly  considered  as  luxuiies  only 
for  the  tables  of  the  wealthy,  are  beginning  to  take  their 
place  among  the  ordinary  supplies  of  every  man's  table; 
and  this  taste  must  grow  from  year  to  year,  with  nn  in- 
creased suj)ply.  Those  who  consume  a  bushel  of  fruit 
this  year,  will  require  double  or  treble  that  quantity 
next.  The  rnpid  increase  of  population  alone,  creates  a 
demand  to  an  extent  that  few  ])eople  are  aware  of  The 
city  of  Rochester  has  added  20,000  to  her  numbers  in 
ten  years.  Let  such  an  increase  as  this  in  all  our  cities, 
towns,  and  villages,  be  estimated,  and  see  what  an  aggre- 
gate, annual  amount  of  new  consumers  it  presents. 

New  markets  are  continually  presenting  themselves,  and 
demanding  large  supplies.  New  and  more  })erfect  modes 
of  packing  and  shipping  fruits,  and  of  drying,  preserving, 
and  preparing  tliem  for  various  purposes  to  Avliich  they 
have  not  hitherto  been  approj)riated,  are  beginning  to  en- 
list attention  and  inquiry. 

Immense  amounts  of  money  are  annually  expended  in 
importing  grapes,  wines,  figs,  nuts,  prunes,  raisins,  cur- 
rants, almonds,  etc.,  many  of  which  might  be  produced 
perfectly  well  on  our  own  soil.  Pears  have  actually  been 
imported  from  France  by  the  New  York  confectioners, 
this  present  season  (1851).  These  are  facts  that  should 
be  well  understood  by  proprietors  of  lands,  and  e~;pecially 
by  those  who  have  allowed  themselves  to  imagine  that 
fruit  will  soon  be  so  plenty  as  not  to  be  worth  the  grow- 
ing. 

It  is  too  soon,  by  a  contm-y,  to  appiehend   an  over  sup 


Xli  INTKOni  CTTON    TO    FIRST    KDITION. 

ply  of  fruits  in  tlio  United  States,  except  of  some  very 
perishable  soj*t,  in  a  season  of  unusnal  abundance,  in  some 
particular  locality,  where  one  branch  of  culture  is  inainly 
carried  on. 

It  is  because  fruit  culture  has  been  almost  entirely  neg- 
lected until  within  a  few  years,  that  the 'present  activity 
appears  so  extraordinary.  A  vast  majority  of  the  people 
were  quite  unaware  of  the  treasures  within  their  reach; 
and  that  in  regard  to  soil  and  climate,  they  possessed  ad- 
vantages for  fruit  growing  superior  to  any  other  nation. 
We  had  no  popular  works  or  periodicals  to  diffuse  informa- 
tion or  aw:iken  interest  on  the  subject.  For  fourteen  or 
fifteen  yeais  Hovey's  Magazine  of  JTorficultnre  wns  the 
only  journal  exclusively  devoted  to  gardening  subjects, 
and  it  only  found  its  way  into  the  hands  of  the  more  ad- 
vanced cultivators.  We  had  some  treatises  on  fruits,  but 
none  of  them  circulate*!  sufficiently  to  effect  much  good. 
Previous  to  1845,  Kenrick''s  American  Orchardlst,  and 
Manning's  Book  of  Fruits,  were  the  principal  treatises 
that  had  any  circulation  worth  naming.  Coxe's  work, 
Floy's,  Prince's,  and  some  others,  were  confined  almost 
wholly  to  nurserymen,  or  persons  already  engaged  and 
interested  in  fruit  culture  in  the  older  ))artsof  the  country. 

Mr.  Downing's  "  Fruit  and  Fruit  Trees  of  America," 
that  appeared  in  1845,  was  the  first  treatise  of  the  kind 
that  really  obtained  a  wide  and  general  circulation. 

It  made  its  appearance  at  a  favorable  moment,  just  as 
the  planting  spirit  leferred  to  was  beginning  to  manifest 
itself,  nnd  when,  more  than  at  any  previous  period,  such 
a  work  was  needed.  Mr.  Downing  enjoyed  great  advan- 
tages over  any  previous  American  writer.  During  the 
ten  years  that  hail  elapsed  since  the  publication  of  Ken- 
lick's  Mnd  Prince's  treatises,  a  great  fund  of  materials  had 
be.'n  accumulating.  Messrs.  Manning,  Kenrick,  Prince, 
Wilder,  and  many  others,  had  been  industriously  collect- 
in"-  fruits  both  :>t  home  and  abroad.     The  Massachusetts 


]NTi:0I)UCI10N     iO    FUIST    KlUTION.  X  J  U 

Horticultural  Society  w.is  actively  engaged  in  its  labors. 
The  London  Horticultural  Society  had  made  great  ad- 
vancement in  its  examination  and  trial  of  fruits,  and  had 
corrected  a  multitude  of  long  standing  errors  in  nomen- 
clature. 

Mr.  Downing's  work  had  the  benefit  of  all  this ;  and 
possessing  the  instructive  feature  of  outline  figures  of 
fruits,  and  being  written  in  a  very  agreeable  and  attrac- 
tive style,  it  possessed  the  elements  of  popularity  and 
usefulness  in  an  eminent  degree.  Hetice  it  became  at 
once  the  text-book  of  every  man  who  sought  for  porao- 
logical  information,  or  felt  interested  in  fruits  or  fruit- 
trees  ;  and  to  it  is  justly  attributable  much  of  the  taste 
and  spiiit  on  the  subject,  and  the  increased  attention  to 
nomenclature,  that  so  distinguishes  the  present  time.  Mr. 
Thomas's  recent  treatise,  "  The  Amei-ican  Fruit  Culturist," 
on  the  same  plan  as  Mr.  DoAvning's,  is  also  a  popular 
Avork,  and  will  be  the  means  of  diffusing  both  taste  and 
informati(m.  Mr.  Thomas  is  a  close  and  accurate  ob- 
server, and  his  descriptions  are  peculiarly  concise,  methodi- 
cal, and  minute.  "Cole's  Fruit  Book"  is  also  a  recent 
treatise,  and  on  account  of  its  cheapness,  and  the  vast  ac- 
cumulation of  facts  and  information  it  contains,  is  highly 
popular  and  useful.  Besides  these,  periodicals,  devoted 
more  or  less  to  the  subject,  have  increased  in  number,  and 
greatly  extended  their  circulation,  so  that  information  is 
now  accessible  to  all  who  desire  it. 

The  light  which  has  been  shed  upon  fruit-growing  by. 
these  works,  and  the  taste  they  have  created,  have  not 
only  improved  old  systems  of  cultivation,  but  introduced 
new  ones.  Until  within  a  few  years,  nothing  was  said  or 
known  among  the  gi'eat  body  of  cultivators,  or  even  nur- 
serymen, of  dwarfing  trees,  of  the  uses  of  certain  stocks, 
or  of  modes  of  propagation  and  pruning  by  which  trees 
are  made  to  bear  early,  and  are  adapted  to  different  cir- 
cumstances. The  entire  routine  of  the  propagation  and 
1* 


XIV  INTllODUCTION    TO    FIUST    EDITION. 

iiian.igeraent  of  trees  was  conducted  generally  in  the  sim- 
plest and  rudest  manner.  Whether  for  the  garden  or  the 
orchard,  they  were  propagated  in  the  same  manner,  on 
the  ?ame  stocks,  and  in  the  same  form  taken  from  the 
nursery,  planted  out,  and  left  there  to  assume  such  forms 
as  nature  or  accident  might  im])Ose,  and  produce  fruit  at 
such  a  time  as  natural  circumstances  would  admit. 

The  art  of  planting  fifty  trees  ou  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
of  ground,  and  bringing  them  into  a  fruitful  state  in  four 
or  five  years  at  most,  was  entirely  nnknowu.  Small  gar- 
dens were  encumbered  with  tall,  unshapely,  and  unfruitful 
trees,  that  afforded  no  pleasure  to  the  cultivator ;  and 
thousands  of  persons,  wlio  are  now  the  most  enthusiastic 
cultivators,  were  entirely  discouraged  from  the  attempt. 

Fruit  gardening,  properly  speaking,  may  be  said  to 
have  only  commenced.  It  is  no  longer  a  matter  of  mere 
utility,  but  taste  also ;  and,  therefore,  adaptation,  variety, 
and  heavty  are  sought  fir  in  gai'den  trees,  and  moiles  of 
culture  and  management.  Nothing  so  distinguishes  the 
taste  of  modern  planting  as  the  partiality  for  dwarf  trees, 
and  the  desire  to  obtain  information  in  regard  to  their 
propagation  and  treatment. 

This  has  not  been  anticipated  by  any  of  our  authors. 
The  standard  or  orchard  system  alone  is  fully  treated  of, 
as  being  the  only  one  practised  ;  and  this  requires  so  little 
skill  in  the  art  of  culture,  that  only  tlie  simplest  instruc- 
tions have  been  given.  The  very  elements  of  the  science 
have  been  unexplained  and  unstudied,  and  cultivators  hi 
the  main  find  themselves  both  destitute  of  knowledge  in 
regard  to  the  management  of  trees  in  the  more  refined 
and  artificial  forms,  and  the  sources  from  which  to  obtain 
it.  But  a  very  small  jiroportiou  of  those  engaged  or  en- 
gaging in  tree  culture  have  studied  the  ])hysiology  of 
trees  in  any  degree.  Very  few  have  the  slightest  knowl- 
edge of  the  modes  of  growth  and  bearing  of  the  different 
species  of  fruits,  or  even  of  the  difference  between  wood 


INTEODLCTIOX   TO    FIRS'l    EDITION"  XV 

or  lea!-buds  and  fruit-buds.  Very  few  understand  the 
functions  of  the  different  parts  of  trees,  and  the  reUition 
in  which  thej  stand  one  to  another  ;  the  principles  that 
govern  and  regulate  the  growth  and  maturity,  the  forma- 
tion of  wood,  and  the  production  of  fruit.  Practice  is 
no  better  understood  than  principle.  Persons  engaged 
larg3ly  in  tree-growing  will  frequently  ask  the  most  ab- 
surd questions  on  the  subject  of  propagation  of  stocks,  of 
pruning,  etc.,  matters  that  should  be  understood  by  every 
man  who  has  a  single  tree  to  manage,  but  especially  in- 
dispensable to  those  who  wish  to  succeed  in  conducting 
garden-trees  under  certain  modified  forms,  more  or  less 
opposed  to  the  natural.  The  preparation  of  ground,  lay- 
ing out  small  gardens,  the  selection  of  suitable  trees,  and 
a  multitude  of  minor,  but  nevertheless  important,  mat- 
ters, are  very  imperfectly  understood. 

Having  for  many  years  devoted  much  attention  to  this 
particular  branch  of  culture,  and  feeling  deeply  interested 
in  its  success,  and  having,  by  a  business  intercourse  with 
cultivators  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  an  ample  opportu- 
nity of  understanding  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  infor- 
mation desired,  I  have  prepared  the  following  pages  to 
supply  it,  at  least,  in  part. 

I  am  well  convinced  that  the  work  is  neither  perfect 
nor  complete.  It  has  been  prepared,  during  a  few  weeks 
of  the  winter,  in  the  midst  of  other  engagements  that 
renderi^d  it  impossible  to  bestow  upon  it  the  necessary 
care  and  labor.  My  original  intention  was  to  give  a 
few  brief  directions  for  the  management  of  garden-trees, 
but  it  was  suggested  by  friends  that  it  would  prove  more 
generally  useful  by  adding  a  sketch  of  the  entire  routine 
of  operations,  from  the  propagation  in  the  nursery  to  the 
management  in  the  orchard  and  garden.  This  has  in- 
volved much  more  labor  than  it  was  intended  to  bestow 
upon  it,  or  than  I  could  really  spare  from  business.  It 
has,  therefore,  beeu  performed  hastily,  and,  of  course. 


Xn  INTKODUCTION   TO   PIllST   EDITIOTT. 

in  many  respects,  imperfectly;  but  yet  it  is  hoped  it 
contains  such  an  exposition  of  principles  and  practices 
as  cannot  fail  to  diffuse  among  the  inexperienced 
much  needed  information.  All  doubtful  theories,  and 
whatever  had  not  a  direct  practical  bearing  on  the  sub- 
jects treated,  have  been  excluded,  both  for  the  sake  of 
brevity,  and  to  avoid  anything  calculated  to  mislead. 
The  principles  and  practices  set  forth  are  not  new, 
visionary,  nor  doubtful,  but  such  as  are  taught  and  prac- 
tised by  the  most  accomplished  cultivators  of  the  day, 
and  have  been  successfully  carried  out  in  the  daily  opera- 
tions of  our  own  establishment. 

For  the  sake  of  convenient  reference,  the  different 
branches  of  the  subject  have  been  separated  into  four 
parts.  The  Jirsi  treats  of  general  principles,  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  structure,  character,  and  functions  of  the 
different  parts  of  trees,  modes  of  growth,  bearing,  etc., 
etc. ;  soils,  manures,  modes  of  j^ropagation,  etc.  This 
must  be  the  groundwork  of  the  study  of  tree  culture. 
The  second  treats  of  the  nursery.  The  third  of  planta- 
tions, orchards  of  different  kinds,  gardens,  etc.;  their 
laying  out  and  management,  and  of  the  pruning  and 
training  of  trees  in  different  forms.  The  fourth  con- 
tains abridged  descriptions  of  the  best  fruits,  a  chapter 
on  gathering  and  preserving  fruits,  another  on  diseases 
and  insects,  and  another  on  the  implements  in  common 
ase. 


P.  B. 


Moupi  Bope  Garden  and  Nurseries,  \ 

BOCHESTEB,   N.    Y,  J 


COI^TEJSrTS. 

PART    L 

GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 
CHAPTER    I. 

PAGE. 

Names,  Descriptions,  and  Offices  of  the  Oiffekent  Parts 

OF  Fkuit  T^ebs,  ......       21—69 

CHAPTER    II. 
SoELS, (i9— 74 

CHAPTER    m. 
Manures,      ........        74—80 

CHAPTER    IV. 
The  Different  Modes  of  Propagating  Fruit  Trees,         .      80 — 100 

CHAPTER    V. 
Pruning — Its  Principles  and  Practice.  ,  .  .    100 — 118 

PART    II. 

THE    NURSERY. 

CHAPTER   I. 
Soil,  Situation,  etc.,        ....,;•    131 — 172 


PART    III. 

THE  LAYING  OUT,  ARRANGEMENT,  AND  GENERAL 
MANAGEMENT  OF  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS 
OF  FRUIT  TREES,  SELECTION  OF  TREES  AND 
VARIETIES,  AND  PRUNING  AND  CONDUCTING 
TREES    UT^DER   VARIOUS    FORMS. 

CHAPTER    L 
Permanent  Plantations  of  Fruit  Trees,       .  .  .    175—220 

CHAPTER    II. 

Pruning  and  Training  applied  to  the  Different  Species 

OF  Fruit  Trees  under  Various  Forms,    .  .  .    230—326 


PART    IV. 

SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS,  GATHERING  AND 
PRESERVING  FRUITS,  DISEASES,  INSECTS,  IM- 
PLEMENTS  IN   COMMON   USE. 

CHAPTER    I. 
Abridged  Descbiptions  op  Select  Varieties  of  Fruits,    .    329-437 

CHAPTER   II. 

Gathering,  Packing,  Transportation,  and  Preservation 

OF  Fruits, 437—449 

CHAPTER  in. 
Diseases  AND  Insects,      .         .  .         .    449—466 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Nursebt,  Orohabd,  and  Fruit-Garden  Implements,  ,    466—480 


P^RT   I. 

GEIERAL    PRIICIPLES 


GENERAL  PRINCIPLES. 


CHAPTER  I. 

NAMEb,  DESCRIPTIONS,   AND   OFFICES   OP  TH'^  DIF 
FERENT  PARTS  OF  FRUIT-TREES 

General  Hemarks. — A  Tree  is  a  living  body,  composed 
of  many  parts,  such  as  roots,  branches,  leaves,  buds,  blos- 
soms, fruit,  etc.  All  tliese  have  difterent  offices  to  fulfil, 
assume  different  forms  and  characters,  and  are  known  and 
designated  from  one  another  by  different  names,  when 
subjected  to  the  practical  opeiations  of  culture.  Without 
some  knowledge  of  the  names  and  structure  of  these  dif- 
ferent parts,  of  the  principles  that  guide  their  develop- 
ment, their  relative  connection  with,  and  influence  upon 
one  another,  tree  culture  cannot  be,  to  any  man,  really 
pleasant,  intellectual,  or  successful;  but  a  misty,  uncer- 
tain, unintelligible  routine  of  manual  labor. 

The  industry  of  our  times  is  peculiarly  distinguished 
by  the  application  of  science — the  union  of  theory  with 
practice  in  every  department ;  and  surely  the  votaries  of 
the  garden,  whose  labors,  of  all  others,  should  be  intelli- 
gent, will  not  allow  themselves  to  fall  behind,  and  per- 
form their  labors  in  the  dark. 

Fully  sensible  of  the  importance  of  this  preliminary 
study,  and  confident  that  the  minute  and  i)ractical  details 
of  culture  cannot  be  well  understood  without  it,  I  propose 
here,  before  entering  upon  the  main  subject,  to  describe, 
in  as  few  and  as  plain  words  as  possible,  the  structure, 
character,  connection,  and  respective  offices  of  the  various 
21 


22 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


parts  of  fruit-trees,  and    the    names   by   which    each   is 
known  in  practice. 


Section  1. — ^The  Root.  ' 

/ 

The  Root  is  composed  of  several  parts. 
1st.  The  collar  [A^  fig.  1),  which  is  the  center  of 
growth,  or  point  of  union  be- 
tween tlie  root  and  stem,  usu- 
ally at  or  just  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  In  root  grafting 
seedlings,  this  is  the  point  where 
the  graft  is  set. 

2(1.  Tiie  body  or  mnin  root 
(-5,  fig.  1),  which  usually  pene^ 
trates  the  earth  in  a  vertical  di- 
rection, and  decreases  in  size  as 
it  proceeds  do wnw  arils  from  the 
collar.  It  is  also  called  the  tap- 
root. A  seedling  that  has  not 
been  transplanted  has  xisually 
but  one  descending  or  tap-root, 
furnished,  in  all  its  length,  with 
minute  hairy  fibres. 

3d.  The  lateral  roots  {C,  fig. 
1)  are  principal  divisions  or 
branches  of  the  main  root,  and 
take  more  or  less  of  a  spreading 
or  horizontal  direction.  When 
seedlings  are  transplanted,  a  por- 
tion of  the  tap-root  is  cut  off,  and 
these  lateral,  or  side  roots,  are 
immediately  formed. 

4th.  The  fibres  or  rootlets  (i),  fig.  1)  are  the  minute 
hair-like  roots  which  we  see  most  abundant  on  trees  that 
have  been  frequently  transplanted.     Different  species  of 


4,  the  Collar ;  B,  the  Main  Root ; 
C,  Lateral  Root ;  D.  Fihres  ;  E, 
fetem,  orTnink  ;  i?',Main  Branch- 
es ;  6^,  Secondary  Branches  ;  //, 
Slioots  of  one  year's  growth. 


THE   EOOT.  23 

trees  vary  much  iu  tlieir  natural  tendency  to  produce 
fibres.  Thus  the  pear  and  the  apple  require  frequent 
transplanting,  and  often  root  pruning,  to  produce  that 
fibrous  condition,  Avhich  is  necessary  to  great  fruitfulness ; 
AvhilsL  the  roots  of  tlie  paradise  apple,  used  as  a  stock  for 
dwarf  trees,  and  the  quince,  are  always  quite  fibrous,  the 
former  never,  and  the  latter  seldom,  requiring  root 
pruning. 

The  Spongioles  is  a  term,  which  was  formerly  applied 
to  the  extremities  of  the  root  fibres,  it  being  supposed 
that  these  tips  were  especial  organs  through  which  the 
plant  absorbed  its  food  from  the  soil.  Later  observations 
have  sliown  that  the  absorbing  surface  of  the  rootlet  is 
not  at  the  very  extremity,  but  just  back  of  it ;  and  that 
instead  of  there  being  a  spongiole,  or  spongelet,  the  spe- 
cial ofiice  of  which  is  to  take  up  moisture,  all  the  newly 
formed  root  surface  does  this  work,  in  which  it  is  facili- 
tated by  great  numbers  of  root  hairs,  which  are  delicate 
projections  from  the  surface,  and  so  minute  as  to  be  only 
visible  by  the  aid  of  a  microscope.  The  root  fibres  are 
composed  of  soft,  newly  formed,  delicate  tissue,  and  are 
exceedingly  suscptible  of  injury.  The  slightest  bruise, 
or  exposure  to  a  dry  or  cold  air,  is  fatal  to  them ;  and  this 
is  the  reason  why  transplanted  trees  generally  receive 
such  a  severe  check,  and  so  frequently  die.  If  trees  could 
be  taken  up  in  such  a  way  that  the  root  fibres  could  all,  or 
mostly,  be  preserved,  trees  would  receive  no  check  what- 
ever. By  taking  proper  precautions,  large  trees  are  re- 
moved in  midsummer  without  a  leaf  flagging. 

The  Groicth  of  Moats. — The  root  increases  in  length 
by  additions  to  its  extreme  point  only.  It  does  not  ex- 
tend throughout  its  whole  length,  as  does  the  joint  of  a 
stem.  Tliis  manner  of  growth  allows  it  to  accommodate 
itself  to  the  oV)staeles  that  it  meets  in  its  course.  The  ex- 
tremities of  the  roots,  at  first,  consist  of  cellular  tissue 
only,  but  soon  woody  fibre  is  formed  in  them,  and  their 


64  (iEIfEBAL  PEINCIPLKS. 

internal  structure  is,  essentially,  like  that  of  the  stem, 
which  Avill  be  described  further  along.  The  material  for 
the  growth  of  the  root  is  supplied  by  the  stem  and  leaves 
above,  and  these,  in  turn,  are  furnished,  with  the  crude 
material  for  their  own  support  and  enlargement  by  the 
roots.  The  parts  of  the  tree  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  those  below  it,  are  dependent  each  upon  the 
other  for  growth  and  existence.  Practical  cultivators 
are  familiar  with  many  facts  that  illustrate  the  intimate 
relations  and  mutual  dependency  of  the  roots  and  stems. 
For  instance,  where  one  portion  of  the  head  or  branches 
is  much  larger  or  more  vigorous  than  the  other,  if  the 
roots  be  examined,  it  will  be  found  that  those  immedi- 
ately under,  or  in  direct  connection  with  the  largest 
branches,  will  have  a  corresponding  size  and  vigor.  In 
cases  where  one  side  of  the  top  of  a  large  tree  is  cut  oiF, 
as  in  top  grafting,  a  large  number  of  new  shoots  are  pro- 
duced on  the  cut  branch,  and,  if  the  roots  be  examined 
under,  or  in  connection  with  this  branch,  a  corresponding 
new  growth  will  be  found  there.  It  is  quite  obvious, 
from  these  and  similar  facts,  that  whatever  affects  the 
roots  or  stems  of  trees,  favorably  or  unfavorably,  affects 
the  whole  tree.  If  the  foliage  of  a  tree  be  entirely  re- 
moved in  the  growing  season,  the  absorbent  action  of  the 
roots  is  suspended  ;  and  if  the  absorbing  portions  of  the 
roots  be  cut  off,  the  growth  of  the  top  instantly  ceases. 

Section  2. — The  Stem.  , 

The  Stem  is  that  part  of  a  tree  which  starts  from  the 
collar,  and  grows  upwards.  It  sustains  all  the  branches, 
and  forms  the  medium  of  communication  between  the 
different  parts  of  the  tree,  from  one  extremity  to  the 
other. 

Plants,  like  the  grape,  with  twining,  or  climbing  stems, 
are  called  vines;  and  such  as  have  no  main  stem,  but  have 


THE    STEM, 


25 


branches  (diverging  from  the  collar,  as  the  gooseberry, 
currant,  etc.,  are  called  shrubs,  or  bushes.  Where  the 
stem  is  destitute  of  branches  to  some  distance  from  the 
ground,  it  is  usually  called  the  trunk. 

Different  Parts  of  the  Stem. — A  stem,  or  branch  of  a 
tree,  is  composed  of  the  following  parts,  which  are  dis- 
tinctly observable  Avhen  we  cut  it  across.    Figure  2  repre- 
sents a  portion  of  a  stem  of  a  young  tree,  one  year  old, 
A 


CB     i:       F  1 

Fig    2  — SECTION   OF   A   STEM    ONE   TEAR   OI D— MAGNIFIED. 

A,  Bark  ;  B,  Wood,  C,  Epidcimib  ,  Z),  Coiky  Layei  ,  E,  Gieen  Layer;  F,  Inner 

Bark,  or  Liber;    (?,  Pith;   H,  Medullary  Rays;   /,   Woody  Fibre;   A',  Dotted 

Ducts  ;  i.  Spiral  Ducts. 

SO  cut  as  to  show  a  cross  section,  and  a  longitudinal  one 
at  the  same  time.  The  bark,  included  in  the  dotted  line 
A,  consists  of  an  outer  and  inner  bark. 

The  Rind,  or  Outer  J3<irk^  is  composed  of  three  layers. 

1.  The  Epidermis,  or  Cuticle  (C),,  Avhich  is  found  only 
on  recent  shoots,  and  the  young  parts  of  trees  ;  this  is 
thin,  smooth,  and  delicate,  like  tissue  paper,  and  is  easily 
separated  from  the  parts  beneath  it.     Next  within  this  is 

2.  The  Corky  Layer  {JD),  which  is  usually  of  some 
shade  of  brown  or  ash  color ;  this,  seen  through  the  epi- 

2 


26  GENERAL   rnlNClPLES. 

dermis,  gives  to  tlie  young  growth  of  trees  its  peculiar 
color,  by  means  of  which  the  experienced  cultivator  is 
enabled  to  distinguish  varieties,  even  when  not  in  leaf. 
Within  the  corky  layer  is 

3.  The  Green  Lnyer  [E),  which  gives  to  the  young 
shoots  their  green  color.  Tliis,  as  the  wood  ripens,  is 
soon  covered  by  the  corky  layer. 

The  Inner  Barh,  or  Liber  {F). — This  is  the  interior 
portion  of  the  bark,  in  immediate  contact  with  the  wood. 
It  is  composed  of  perpendicular  layi-rs  of  soft,  flexible 
but  very  tough  fibres.  It  is  this  part  of  the  bark  of  the 
Basswood  that  is  used  lor  tying  hi  budding,  etc.,  the  tissue 
being  separated  by  mnceiatioii. 

Tiie  bark  remains  with  these  distinct  layers,  only  for  a 
few  years.  It  scales  off,  and  falls  away  in  forms  var}  ing 
with  the  kind  of  tree,  but  in  all  cases  a  poition  of  the  in- 
ner  bark  is  left  attached  to  the  tree.  In  the  grape-vine, 
the  inner  bark,  or  liber,  is  renewed  each  year,  and  that 
formed  the  year  before  is  thrown  oft'  in  long  shreds. 

Within  the  bark  we  have  the  wood,  and  in  the  center 
the  pith.     The  wood  is  divided  into 

1.  The  Sap-ioood  (included  in  the  dotted  line  B). — This 
is  the  youngest,  or  last  formed,  layer  of  wood,  immediate- 
ly helow  the  hnier  bark.  It  is  distinguished  in  all  trees 
by  being  softer  and  lighter  colored   than  the  older  parts. 

2.  The  Heart,  or  Perfect  wood. — This  is  the  central, 
or  interior  portion  of  the  stem,  or  branch,  grown  firm  and 
mature  by  age.  It  is  generally  a  sliade  darker  in  color 
than  the  newly  formed  part,  or  sap-wood.  As  the  en- 
graving, fig.  2,  shows  a  stem  only  one  year  old,  this  is 
not  represented. 

8.  The  Pith  (6^).— This  is  the  soft,  sp-ngy  substance 
in  the  center  of  the  stem  and  branches.  In  soft-wooded 
species,  like  the  grape-vine,  it  is  large  ;  in  hard-wooded 
species,  as  the  a|)i)le,  pear,  quince,  etc.,  it  is  small.  In  young 
siioots  it  is  soft,  green,  and  succulent,  and  fills  an  impor- 


taii;  STEM.  27 

tant  i)art  in  their  Jevolopm  'iit.  In  the  okl  part  it  is  dry, 
shrivelled,  and  seems  incapable  of  takmg  any  part  in  the 
process  oF  vegetation,  and  this  appears  evident  from  the 
fact  tliat  trees  often  continue  to  flourish  after  the  center, 
containing  the  pith,  has  begun  to  decay. 
I  Structure  of  the  Stem.  — The  stem  is  composed  of 
■woody  fibre  and  cellular  tissue,  a  substance  similar  to  the 
pith.  The  woody  fibre  is  arranged  in  i^erpendiculai-  lay- 
ers, and  the  cellular  tissue  in  horizontal  layers,  running 
from  the  pith  to  the  bark  and  connecting  them.  The 
mingling  of  these  two  systems  gives  to  the  surface  of  the 
cross  section  of  a  stem  the' 
beautiful  veined  or  netted  ap- 
pearance observable  in  fig.  3, 
which  represents  the  cross- 
Bection  of  an  oak  branch.  The 
pei^pendicular  layers  of  woody 
fibre  are  most  clearly  observ- 
able when  we  cut  a  stem  ver- 
tically; they  are  then  easily 
separated  f/oni  one  another.  Fiji,-.  3.  —  section  of  a  branch 
The  layers,  or  plates  of  tissue 

radiating  from  the  center  to  the  circumference  of  the  stem 
and  inner  bark  are  called  the  medullary  rays.  Two  of  these 
are  shown  in  fig.  2,  marked  by  the  dotted  lines  H. 

Groicth  of  the  Stem. — The  stem  of  a  tree  is  originally 
the  extension  of  the  cellular  tissue  of  the  seed.  As  soon 
as  leaves  are  formed  they  organize  new  matter,  which  de- 
scends and  fonns  woody  filn-es  :  the  layers  sent  down 
from  the  first  leaves  are  covered  by  those  sent  down 
from  the  next,  and  so  on,  one  layer  after  another  is  pro- 
duced until  the  end  of  the  season,  when  the  leaves  fall  and 
growth  ceases.  A  ycarliiiij:  tree  hns,  therefore,  a  greater 
number  of  layers  of  woody  fibre  at  the  collar  than  at  the 
top,  and  is,  consequently,  thicker;  the  second  year  the 
buds  on  the  first  year's  growth  produce  shoots,  and  these 


28  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

organize  new  layers  of  woody  fibre,  that  descend  and  cover 
those  of  the  previous  year,  and  thus  g-rowth  proceeds  from 
year  to  year.  Between  each  year's  growth  tliere  is  gener- 
ally a  line,  in  some  cases  more  conspicuous  than  in  others, 
that  marks  off  the  formation  of  each  year,  so  that  we  are 
able  to  reckon  the  ages  of  trees  with  great  accuracy  by 
these  rings.  When  it  happens  that  a  tree,  from  certain 
circumstances,  makes  more  growth  one  season  than  an- 
other, we  find  the  ring  of  that  season  larger.  The  new 
wood  in  all  our  northern  trees  is  always  formed  between 
the  inner  bark  and  the  last  layer  of  wood,  so  that  one 
layer  is  laid  upon,  and  outside  of  another,  and  the  bark 
is  continually  pressed  outwards. 

The  new  layers  of  bark  are  also  formed  at  the  same 
place,  or  wUhin  the  previous  one.  From  this  mode  of 
growth,  it  results  that  each  layer  of  wood  is  more  deeply 
imbedded  as  others  are  formed  above  it ;  and  eacli  layer 
of  bark  is  pressed  outwards  as  others  are  formed  within 
it.  In  some  cases,  as  in  the  cherry,  for  example,  the  bark 
is  so  tough  as  not  always  to  yield  to  the  general  expansion 
of  the  tree,  and  slitting  is  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
preventing  an  unnatural  rupture,  which  would  e\'entually 
take  place  by  the  continued  pressure  of  growth  from 
within. 

Section  3. — Branches. 

branches  are  the  divisions  of  the  stem,  and  have  an 
organization  precisely  similar :  they  are  designated  as, 

1st.  Main  Uranches  (F,  fig.  1)  ;  those  thnt  are  dii-ectly 
connected  with  the  stem  or  trunk.  In  pyramidal  trees, 
they  are  called  lateral  branches.  The  branches  of  different 
species  and  varieties  of  fruit  trees,  differ  much  in  their 
habits  of  growth ;  and  it  is  highly  important  to  the 
planter  to  consider  these  peculiarities,  because  certain 
habits  of  growth  are  better  adapted  to  particular  circura- 


BRANCHES. 


29 


stances  than  others.  Thus  Ave  have  erect  branches  (fig.  4), 
wliich  produce  trees  of  an  upright  and  compact  form. 
Curved  erect  branches  (fig.  5),  proceeding  ahnost  horizon- 
tally from  the  stem  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  becoming 
erect;  these,  also,  form  upright  symmetrical  heads,  but 
much  more  open  than  the  preceding.  Also,  horizon  ted, 
or  spreading  branches  (fig.  6),  that   form  wide-spreading 


Fig.  4.  Fig.  5.  Fig.  6. 

DIFFERENT   HABITS  OF   GROWTH  OF   TREES. 
Fig.  4,  Erect ;  Fig.  5,  Curved  Erect ;  Fig.  6,  Spreading,  or  Horizontal. 

heads  with  irregular  outline.  And,  lastly,  drooping 
branches,  when  they  fall  below  the  horizontal  line.  The 
branches  of  most  varieties  of  apples  and  pears  become 
pendulous  when  they  have  borne  for  some  time ;  and  even 
in  young  trees  of  particular  varieties,  some  of  the  branches 
assume  a  drooping  and  irregular  habit. 

2d.  Secondary  Branches  (G^,  fig.  1),  are  the  divisions 
of  the  main  branches :  occasionally  those  near  the  stem 
take  such  a  prominent  part  in  forming  the  outline  of  the 
tree,  as  to  as.sume  all  the  character  of  main  branches,  ex- 
cepting in  position. 


3U  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

3(1.  Shoots  {IT,  fig.  1).  This  is  the  name  by  which 
young  parts  are  designated  from  the  time  they  emerge 
from  the  bud  until  they  have  completed  their  first  season's 
growth.  These  have  also  important  peculiarities  that 
serve  to  distinguish  certain  varieties.  They  are  variously 
designated  as  stout  or  sletider,  stiffs  or  flexible,  erect  or 
spreading,  short-jointed  if   the  buds  be  close  together, 


Fig.  7.  Fig.  8.  Fig 

Fig.  7,  Wood-branch  of  the  Apple;  Pig.  8,  Fruit-branch:  A,  B,  C,  Young  Fra't- 
spurs  on  two-year-old  wood;  F'-^.  9,  Pniit-branch  of  the  Pear;  A,  B,  C\  Young 
Spurs  on  two-year-old  wood. 

and  long-jointed  when  the  contrary.  The  colors  of  their 
baiks  are  also  strikingly  different,  and  form  very  obvious 
distinctions  amongst  varieties.  The  Snow  Peach,  for  in- 
stance, has  pale  greenish  shoots,  by  which  it  is  at  once 
distinguished.  The  J<{rgonelle^  Rostlezer,  and  many  other 
varieties  of  the  pear,  have  darh  pvrplish  slioots,  while -the 


BKANCIIES. 


61 


D/'x  and  /St.  Germain  are  quite  yellowish,  the  Glou  Mor- 
ceau,  grey  or  drab,  and  tlie  Bartlett  and  Bufficm  quite 
reddish.  Tlie  shoots  of  certain  varieties  of  apples  and 
pears,  and  especially  plums,  are  distinguished  by  being 
downy,  as  tliey  are  furnished  to  a  greater  or  less  extent 
with  a  soft  and  hairy  covering — in  some  cases  barely  ob- 
servable. 

4th.  Wood-Branches  (fig.  7),  are  those  bearing  only 
tvood  1  uds. 

5th.  Fruit-Branches  are  tliose  bearing  fruit  buds  ex, 
i  lusively.  Tliey  are  ])resented  to  us  under  difFeient  forms 
ijnd  circumstances,  all  of  wliich  it  is  of  the  highest  im- 
portance to  unilerstand. 

In  kernel-fruits,  such  as  the  apple  and  pear,  the  most 
ordinary  form  of  the 
fruit  branch  is  that 
generally  called  the 
fruit-spur  {A,  B,  C, 
figs.  8,  9,  10).  It  ap- 
pears first  MS  a  promi- 
nent bud,  as  in  fig.  8, 
on  wood  al.  least  two 
years  old;  and  for 
two  or  three  seasons  it 
l)roduce8  but  a  rosette 
of  leaves,  and  con- 
tinues to  increase  in 
length,  as  in  fig.  10. 
After  it  has  produced 


Fig.  10. 


-FKUIT-BKANCH    OF   THE   PEAR. 

.•1,  li,  C,  Older  Spars. 

fruit,  it  generally  branches,  and,  if  properly  managed, 
will  bear  fruit  for  many  years.  Apple  and  pear-trees  of 
bearing  age,  and  in  a  fruitful  condition,  will  be  found 
C(»vered  with  these  sj)urs  on  all  parts  of  the  head,  except 
the  young  shoots.  In  addition  to  the  fruit-spur,  there 
are,  on  the  kernel-fruits,  slender  fruit  branches,  about  as 
large  as  a  goose  quill,  and  from   six  to  eight  inches   in 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


length  (fig.  11) ;  the  buds  are  long,  narrow,  and  promi- 
nent, and  the  first  year  or  two  after  their  appearance, 
produce  but  rosettes  of  leaves,  yielding  fruit  generally 
about  the  third  year.  On  trees 
well  furnished  with  fruit-spurs, 
these  slender  branches  are  of  little 
account,  but  they  are  useful  on 
young  trees  not  fully  in  a  bearing 
state.  They  are  generally  pro- 
duced on  the  lower  or  older  parts 
of  the  brandies  or  stem,  and,  in 
the  first  place,  are  slender  shoots 
with  wood-buds  only  ;  but  owing 
to  their  unfavorable  position  and 
feeble  structure,  they  receive  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  ascending 
sap,  and  the  consequence  is,  they 
become  stunted,  and  transformed 
into  fruit-branches.  In  pruning 
young  trees,  slender  shoots  are 
frequently  bent  over,  or  fastened 
in  a  crooked  position  to  transform 
tliem  into  fruit-branches  of  this 
kind  ;  but  this  will  be  treated  of 
in  its  proper  place. 

Certain  varieties  of  apples  have 
a  natur.al  habit  of  bearing  the  fruit 
on  the  points  of  the  lateral  shoots  ;| 
and  frequently  these  terminal 
fruit-buds  are  formed  during  thie 
first  season's  growth  of  tlie  shoot.  Fig.  12  is  an  example; 
A,  is  the  point  where  a  fruit  was  borne  last  season  ;  JB,  a 
shoot  of  last  season  ;  and  C,  its  terminal  bud,  which  is  a 
fruit-bud.  The  fruit-branches  of  the  peach,  apricot,  and 
nectarine,  nre  productions  of  one  season's  growth  ;  the 
fruit-buds  form  one  season  and  blossom  the.  next  j  but  as 


Fig.  IL  Fi<r.  13. 

Fig.  11,  slender  frait-branch 
of  the  apple — all  the  buds  arc 
fruit-buds.  Fig.  12,  a  braucli 
of  the  apple  showing  the 
tendency  of  some  varieties  to 
bear  on  the  points  of  the 
branches.  A,  the  point  where 
the  fruit  was  borne  last  sea- 
son ;  jB,  a  shoot  of  last  year ; 
C,  its  terminal  fruit-bud. 


BRANCHES. 


on   the  apple  and    pear,  there   are    different 
forms  of  ihe  fruit-branch. 

In  the  first  place  the  fruit-spur  (fig.  13),  a 
group  of  buds  like  a  boucpxet ;  these  are  little 
stunted  branches  on  the  older  wood  that  have 
assumed  this  form.  The  most  imuortant  fruit- 
branchus  of  these  trees  are  the  vigorous  shoots 
of  last  season's  growth,  containing  both  fruit- 
and  wood-buds  (fig.  14),  and  the  slender  fruit- 
branches,  beaiing  all  single  fruit-buds,  except 
a  wood-bud  or  two  at  the  base.  Fig.  15, 
represents  such  a  branch 
of  the  peach,  A  and  B 
being  wood-buds.  The 
fiuit  -  branches  of  the 
plum  and  cherry,  and 
the  gooseberry  and  cur- 
rant are  similarly  pro- 
duced. A  yearling  shoot 
for  instance,  the  second 
season,  will  produce  a 
shoot  from  its  terminal 
bud,  and  probably  shoots  from  two  or  three 
other  buds  immediately  below  the  terminal, 
whilst  those  lower  down  will  be  transformed 
into  fruit-buds,  and  produce  fruit  the  third 
season.  Fig.  16  is  a  branch  of  the  cherry.  A 
is  the  two-year-old  wood  ;  jB,  one  year ;  C  and 
Z>,  fruit-spurs  on  the  two-year-old  wood,  with 
a  wood-bud  usually  at  the  point.  Fig.  17  is  a 
fruit  spur  from  the  older  wood  ;  A,  the  wood- 
bud  at  its  point.  Fig.  18  is  a  branch  of  the 
plum  ;  A,  the  two-year-old  wood  ;  B,  one  year 


Fig.  13.— FRUIT-SPUR     OF 

THE   PEACH  ON   THE  OLD 

WOOD. 


Fig.  14,  mixed  wood  and  fruit-branches  of  the  peach  ;  B,  C,  D,  E,  fruit-buds; 
F,  G,  II,  leaf-buds  ;  J,  double  buds ;  C,  triple  buds,  the  two  side  buds  being  fruit- 
buds,  and  the  center  one,  a  leaf-bud. 

3* 


34 


GENEKAL    PIIINCIPLES. 


old;  C  and  Z>,  spurs.  Fig.  19  is  a  fruit-spur  from  older 
wood.  The  wood-lnid  in  the  centre  of  tliese  groups  of 
buds  on  the  spur  enables  them  to  increase  m  length  every 


Fig.  16. 


Fi;,^  17, 


Fig.  15,  a  slender  fruit-branch  of  the  peach ;  all  the  buds  except  A  and  B,  and 

the  terminal  one,  are  fruit-buds.    Fig.  l(i,  branch  of  the  cherry ;  A,  two-year-old 

wood  ;  B,  oue  year;  Cand  Z>,  fruit-spurs.    Fig.  17,  fruit-spur  of  the  cheriy;  the 

bud  A^  in  the  center  of  the  group,  is  a  wood-bud. 


season.     New  buds  are  produced  to  replace  those  that 
bear,  and  so  the  spurs  continue  fruitful  for  several  years, 


BUDS.  35 

according   to  the  vigor  of  the  tree,  and  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  treated. 

The  fruit-branches  of  the  quince  and  the  medlar  are 


Fig.  18.  Fig.  19. 

Fig.  18,  branch  of  the  plum;   A,  two-year-old  wood;   B.  one   year  old  ;  C  and 

2>,  spurs.    Fig.  19,  fruit-spur  of  the  plum  on  the  old  wood. 

slender   twigs  on  the  sides  of  lateral  branches,  and  the 
fruit  is  borne  on  their  points. 

I 
Section  4. — Buds. 

let.  77ie  Nature  and  Functions  of  Buds. — In  a  practi- 
cal point  of  view,  buds  are  certainly  the  most  important 
organs  of  trees,  because  it  is  through  them  we  are  enabled 
completely  to  direct  and  control  theii*  forms  and  their 
productiveness.  Whoever,  therefore,  wishes  to  become 
a  skilful  and  successful  tree  culturist,  must  not  fail  to 


36  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

make  himself  familiar  with  all  their  forms,  modifications, 
modes  of  development,  and  the  purposes  they  are  adapted 
to  fulfil  in  the  formation  of  the  true  and  its  products.  The 
immediate  causes  of  the  production  of  buds  on  the  grow- 
ing shoots  of  trees,  and  the  sources  from  which  they  spring 
or  in  which  they  originate,  are  alike  thus  far  mysterious, 
notwithstanding  they  have  been  the  subject  of  a  vast  deal 
of  research  and  speculation  among  the  botanists  and  vege- 
table physiologists.  We  are  able,  however,  to  trace  clear- 
ly and  satisfactorily  the  objects  they  are  intended  to  fulfil 
in  the  development  of  the  tree,  their  connection  with,  and 
dependency  upon  other  parts,  and  the  circumstances  un- 
der which  they  can  be  made  to  accomplish  specific  pur- 
poses. 

Every  bud  contains  the  rudiments  of,  and  is  capable 
under  favorable  circumstances  of  producing,  a  new  indi- 
vidual similar  to  that  on  which  it  is  borne. 

This  fact  is  clearly  demonstrated  in  the  propagation  of 
trees  by  budding,  Avhere  a  single  eye  is  removed  from  one 
shoot  and  placed  in  the  wood  of  another,  to  which  it 
imites  an<l  forms  a  new  individual  similar  to  its  parent. 
So  in  propagation  by  eyes,  as  in  the  grape-vine,  where  a 
single  bud  with  a  small  portion  of  wood  attached,  becomes 
a  perfect  plant. 

Every  perfect  bud  we  find  on  a  young  yearling  tree  or 
shoot  is  capable  of  being  developed  into  a  branch.  Na- 
turally, they  all  do  not  develope  ;  but  we  know  that  by 
the  aj)plication  of  art  they  can  be  readily  forced  to  do  so. 

For  instance,  the  buds  of  a  yearling  tree,  if  left  to  take 
their  natural  course,  will  only  in  part  produce  branches, 
and  these  will  generally  be  nearer  to  the  extremities, 
M'here  they  are  the  most  excitable ;  but  we  can  cause  the 
lower  ones  to  develope  branches,  by  cutting  off  those 
above  them  to  the  extent  that  the  particular  character  of 
the  species  or  variety,  or  of  the  buds  tliemselves  in  respect 
to  vigor  and  vitality,  may  require.     Hence  it  is  that  the 


BtTDS.  37 

forms  of  trees  are  so  completely  under  our  control  when 
we  possess  the  requisite  knowledge  of  the  character  and 
modes  of  vegetation  of  buds. 

2d,  The  Names  and  Characters  of  Buds. — All  buds  are 
either,  1st,  terminal.,  as  when  on  the  points  of  shoots  (C, 
fig.  20) ;  2d,  axillary,  when  situated  in  the  angle  made  by 
the  projection  of  a  leaf  from  the  shoot  or  branch  {A^  B, 
fig.  20)  ;  3d,  adventitious  or  acidental,  wiien  originating 
accident  illy,  as  it  were,  or  without  any  regularity,  on  the 
older  parts  of  trees,  and  not  in  the  axil  of  a  leaf  They 
are  often  produced  by  the  breaking  or  cutting  off  of  a 
branch,  or  by  a  wound  or  incision  made  in  the  bark.  In 
the  management  of  trained  trees,  special  means  are  taken 


Fig.  20. 
A,  a  Buperior  bud  ;  B.  inferior ;  C,  terminal :  A  and  B,  axill.iry. 

to  produce  these  buds  on  spaces  of  the  trunk  that  it  is  de- 
sirable to  fill  up.  We  sometimes  see  instances  of  such 
buds  on  the  stumps  of  old  trees. 

The  terminal  and  axillary  buds  produced  on  young 
shoots,  seem  to  have  a  different  origin  from  these  ac- 
cidental buds — the  former  are  connected  with  the  pith  of 
the  shoot,  as  we  may  see  by  dissecting  them.  On  cutting 
into  a  young  shoot  below  a  bud  we  find  a  cylinder  of  pith 
entering  into  the  bud  from  the  pith  of  the  shoot,  but  we 
do  not  find  this  connection  existing  in  the  case  of  the 
adventitious  buds. 

Practically  considered,  buds  are  classified  as  follows  •• — 
1.  Lateral. — Those  on  the   sides  or   circurnference   of 


38  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES, 

slioots,  being  the  amUary  buds  of  the  botanist  (^1,  jB,  fig. 
20). 

2.  Terminal. — Those  on  tlie  points  of  shoots  ( C,  fig.  20). 

3.  Superior. — Those  on  the  upper  side  of  liorizontal 
brandies  (^,  fig.  20). 

4.  Inferior.  — Those  on  ilie  lower  side  of  horizontal 
branches  (i?,  fig.  20). 

5.  Stipular. — The  small,  barely  visible  buds  found  at 
the  base  of  ordinary  buds. 

6.  Dormant  or  Latent. — These  are  scarcely  apparent 
buds,  generally  towards  the  base  of  branches  :  They  may 
remain  dormant  for  several  years,  and  then,  in  some  spe' 
cies,  be  excited  into  growth  by  pruning  close  to  them. 

Buds  are  again  classed  as  leaf-buds  and  fruit-buds. 

7.  Leaf-Buds  (7^,  G,  II,  fig.  14),  produce  either  leaves 
or  branches  ;  they  differ  in  form  from  fruit-buds  in  being 
in  most  cases  longer  and  more  pointed  in  the  same  species. 

These  are  again  designated  as — 

Single,  when  only  one  is  j^roduced  at  the  same  point 
{H,  fig.  14). 

Double,  when  two  are  together  (/.  fig.  14), 

Triple,  when  in  threes  ((7  and  L,  fig.  14). 

These  double  and  triple  buds  are  almost  jieculiar  to  the 
Btone  fruits,  and  especially  the  peach,  apricot,  and  necta- 
rine. 

The  size,  form,  and  prominence  of  leaf-buds  vary  in  a 
Btriking  degree  in  different  varieties  of  the  same  species, 
and  these  peculiarities  are  found  to  be  of  considerable 
service  in  identifying  and  describing  sorts.  Thus,  the 
buds  of  one  variety  will  be  long,  pointed  and  compressed, 
or  lying  close  to  the  shoot.  Others  will  be  large,  oval 
and  prominent,  or  standing  boldly  out  from  the  shoot. 
Others  will  be  small,  full,  and  round.  For  instance, 
the  wood-buds  of  the  Glout  M irceau  are  short  and  coni- 
cal, broad  at  the  base,  and  taper  suddenly  to  a  very  sharp 
point  inclined  towards   the   shoot;  they  have  also   very 


EUDS.  SVf 

Drominent  shpuMors  ;  that  is,  their  base  forms  a  prominent 
projection  on  the  shoot.  The  scales  are  also  dark,  with 
light  gray  edges.  In  tlie  Josephine  de  Malines  pear  the 
buds  are  quite  remarkable  for  their  roundness,  bluntness, 
and  |)rominence.  If  shoots  of  the  Bartlett  and  Ssckel 
pears,  two  well-known  varieties,  be  compared,  although 
they  present  no  decidedly  obvious  peculiarities,  yet  they 
will  be  found  very  different.  Those  of  the  Seckel  are  much 
"broader  at  the  base,  more  pointed,  and  lighter  colored, 
being  a  dark  dvab,  whilst  those  of  the  Bartlett  are  red- 
dish. These  miscellaneous  instances  are  cliosen  simply  to 
draw  attention  to  these  points,  and  to  show  the  ordinaiy 
modes  of  comparison.  When  we  sj)eak  of  loaf-buds,  we 
have  reference  only  to  the  simple  bud  and  not  to  the 
large,  pointed,  spur-like  productions  frequently  ))rodiiced 
towards  the  middle  or  lower  part  of  young  shoots  that- 
have  made  a  second  growth  ;  th.-.t  is,  whei-e  growth  has  ceas- 
ed for  a  while  and  the  terminal  bud  has  been  formed,  and 
afterwards,  in  the  same  season,  commenced  anew,  and' 
made  a  second  growth. 

8.  Fruit-Buds. — In  the  early  stages  of  their  formation 
and  growth  all  buds  are  but  leaf-buds.     Thus,  on  a  young- 
shoot  of  the  cherry  and  the  plum,  for  example,  of  one  sea- 
son's growth,  the  buds  are  all  leaf-buds.     The  next  spring' 
a  part  of  these  produce  new  shoots,  and  otheis  are  trans- 
formed into  fruit-buds   that  will  bear  fruit  the   following  • 
season.     The  transformation   is   accomplished   during  the 
second  year  of  their  existence,  and  it  usually  happens  that 
tliey  are  the  smallest  and  least  fully  develojted  that  are  so. 
transformed  ;  the   more  vigorous   pushing  into  branches,  - 
In  the  peach,  the  apricot,   etc.,  on   which   the  fruit-buds 
are  produced  in  one  year,  the  change  from  a  leaf-bud  to  a  - 
fruit-bud   occurs  towards  the  latter  part  of  the   season. 
The    primary    catjse    of   the    transformation   of  leaf-buds  • 
into  fruit-buds  is  not  satisfactorily  known,  although   many 
theories  exist  on  the  subject.     Observation  has  taught  us 


40  GElfERAL  PRINCIPLES. 

many  things  in  relation  to  it.  It  seems  that  all  trees  must 
acquire  a  certain  maturity,  either  natural  or  forced,  in 
order  to  produce  blossotns  or  fruit.  A  tree  that  is  fur- 
nished with  a  rich,  humid  soil,  containing  an  abundance 
of  watery  nutriment,  and  left  in  all  respects  unrestiained 
in  its  upward  growth,  may  attain  the  age  of  ten  or  fifteen 
'years  before  it  commences  to  form  fruit-buds ;  while  in  a 
soil  of  a  different  quality,  dry  and  less  favorable  to  rapid 
growth,  or  if  constrained  in  its  growth  by  being  grafted 
on  some  particular  stock,  or  by  some  particular  mode  of 
training,  it  may  produce  fruit  in  two  or  three  years. 

An  apple-tree  on  a  common  stock,  j^lanted  out  in  ordi- 
nary orchard  soil,  does  not  usually  bear  until  it  is  in  most 
cases  seven  years  old,  and  often  more  from  the  bud  ;  Avhile 
the  same  variety  grafted  or  budded  on  a  Paradise  apple 
stock  will  produce  in  two  or  three  years  at  most.  We  fre- 
quently see  one  branch  of  a  tree  that  has  been  accidentally 
placed  in  a  more  horizontal  position  than  the  other  parts, 
or  that  has  been  tightly  compressed  with  a  bandage  or 
something  of  that  sort,  bear  fruit  abundantly,  while  the 
erect,  unconstrained  portion  of  the  tree  gives  no  sign  of 
fruitfulness  whatever.  As  a  general  thing  we  find  that 
where  there  is  an  abundant  and  constant  supply  of  sap  or 
nutriment  furnished  to  the  roots  of  trees  and  conveyed  by 
them  through  the  unrestrained  channels  which  the  large 
cells  and  porous  character  of  young  wood  afford,  the 
whole  forces  of  the  tree  will  be  spent  in  the  production 
of  new  shoots ;  but  that  as  trees  grow  older,  the  cells  be- 
conae  smaller,  and  the  tree  being  also  more  branched  the 
free  course  of  the  sap  is  obstructed,  and  becomes  in  con- 
sequence better  elaborated,  or  in  other  words  more  771a- 
ture^  and  commences  the  production  of  fruit.  Circum- 
stances similar  in  all  respects  to  these  and  answering  ex- 
actly the  same  purpose,  can  be  produced  by  art  at  an 
early  age  of  the  tree;  and  this  is  one  of  the  leading  points 
in  the  culture  and  management  of  garden  trees,  where 


41 


Bmallness  of  size  and  early  fruitfulness  are  so  higlily  desir- 
able. This  will  come  under  consider.ition  in  another  place. 

Fruit-buds  in  most  cases  are  distinguishable  from  wood- 
buds  by  their  rounder  and  fuller  form  ;  the  scales  that 
cover  them  are  broader  and  less  numerous,  and  in  the 
spring  they  begin  to  swell  and  show  signs  of  opening  at 
an  earlier  period.  Like  the  wood-buds  they  are  single, 
double,  or  triple,  according  to  the  number  found  together. 
They  are  single  in  pears,  apples,  and  other  trees  of  that 
class.  Single,  double,  and  triple,  variously,  on  the  stone 
fruits,  gooseberries,  nnd  currants. 

Fruit-buds  are  also  simple  and  compound.  Simple,  as 
in  the  peach,  apricot,  and 
almond,  each  bud  of  which 
produces  but  one  flower. 
Compound,  as  in  the  plum, 
cherry,  apple,  pear,  etc., 
each  bud  of  which  pro- 
duces two  or  more  flowers. 
Those  of  the  plum  produce 
two  or  three,  hence  we 
find  plums  usually  borne 
in  pairs ;  those  of  the  cher- 
ry four  or  five  (fig.  21), 
and  of  the  apple  and  pear 
six  to  eight ;  and  hence 
we  often  find  these  fruits 
borne  in  clusters.  They 
are  also  lateral  or  terminal,  as  they  occupy  the  sides  or 
ends  of  the  branches  or  spurs  on  which  they  are  produced. 
The  ordinary  position  of  the  fruit-buds  of  different  classes 
of  trees  will  be  understood  from  the  preceding  descrip- 
tions of  fruit-branches. 


Fit^.  21.— FLOWER  OF  THE  CHERRY, 

SHOWING  THE  PRODUCT  OP  A 

COMPOUND  BUD. 


42 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


Section  5. — Leaves. 

1st.  Structure  and  l^umtions  of  Leaves. — The  leaves, 
of  all  hardy  fruit  trees  cultivated  in  our  clim.ite,  are  de- 
ciduous— tliat  is,  1 1  ley  decay  and  fall  in  the  autumn,  and 
are  succeeded  by  others  on  the  return  of  spring.  The 
offices  tliey  perform  during  the  growing  season  are  of 

the  liighest  importance 
to  the  life  and  health  of 
the  tree,  and  deserve 
the  most  attentive  con- 
sideration. 

A  leaf  (fiu-.  22)  is  com- 
posed of  two  principal 
parts,  the  leaf  stalky  or 
]j,  petiole  {A),  which  con- 
nects it  witli  the  tree  or 
branch,  on  which  it  irf 
borne,  and  the  expanded 
part  (i?,r,Z>,^'),  called 
the  b'ade.  The  base  is 
the  end  (C),  attached  to 
the  stalk,  and  the  apex, 
or  point  {D),  the  op- 
posite one.  Tlie  length 
is  tlic  distance  from  the 

A.  the   petiole,  or  leaf  .talk;  B.  C.  A  E,  the   ^^^^    ^.O  the    point  (  O  tO 
blade;   6',  the  base;  Z>,  the  point;  Line  ^,5,   J9),  and  the  Width,  a  line 

''"^' ^^'^'"'-  cutthig    the    length    at 

right  angles,  and   extending  from  margin  to  mai'gin  {£! 
to  J3). 

The  loaf-stalk  and  its  branches,  forming  the  nerves  or 
veins  of  the  blade,  are  composed  of  woody  vessels,  similar 
to  the  woody  parts  of  the  tree  or  branch  that  bears  it,  in- 
side of  wliich  is  a  pith,  similar  to  the  pith  of  the  tree  ;  the 
leaf  is  thus  connected   with  tjie  pith  and  wood  of  the 


A   LEAF   OF    THE   PEAR. 


shoot,  and  consequently  with  tlie  ascending  sap,  as  we 
may  readily  see,  by  making  a  verticul  out  tliroiigh  tlie  leaf 
stalk  and  shoot.  The  spaces  between  the  veins  of  the 
leaf  are  filled  up  with  a  cellular  substance  similar  to  thi; 
pith,  calk-d  purem-Jiytna,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with 
a  thin  skin,  ejyidennls.  The  cellular  substance  of  the 
leaf  is  connected  with  the  inner  baik,  and  consequently 
with  the- descending  sap,  or  cambium,  that  forms  the  new 
layers  of  wood.  Both  surfaces  of  the  lenf  are  furnished 
with  small  pores,  through  which  exhalation  and  absorp- 
tion :ire  carried  on ;  these  are  most  abundant  on  the  lower 
surface. 

This  property  of  the  leaves  to  receive  and  give  out  air 
and  moisture  through  the  pores  on  their  surface,  has 
caused  them  to  be  likened  to  the  lungs  of  .inimals,  and 
this  comparison  is,  to  some  extent,  correct ;  for  we  know 
that,  without  leaves,  or  organs  performing  their  offices, 
trees  do  not  grow;  and,  in  proportion  to  the  natural 
and  healthy  action  of  the  leaves,  do  we  find  the  vigor  and 
growth  of  the  tree. 

To  piove  that  le.'ives  have  the  power,  in  a  greater  or 
less  degree,  to  absorb  fluids,  we  have  but  to  apply  water 
to  the  drooping  foliage  of  a  plant  suffering  from  drouth, 
and  see  how  quickly  it  becomes  refreshed.  The  dews  of  a 
single  night,  we  know,  too,  will  i-evive  plants  tliat  the  heat 
and  drouth  of  the  previous  day  liad  prostrated ;  and 
even  if  we  put  a  flagging  plant  in  a  damp  atmosphere,  it 
recovers.  The  leaves  of  a  bouquet  can  be  kept  fresh  for  a 
long  time  by  sprinkling  them  with  water. 

That  plants  exhale  moisture  and  gases,  cannot  be  doubt- 
ed. It  is  this  very  exhaling  process  that  cuises  plants 
to  wilt  under  a  hot  sun,  or  in  a  dry  atmosphere.  Plants 
that  are  trans2)l:iiited  with  their  foliage  on,  as  annuals  are 
in  the  spring  or  summer,  will  wilt,  and  even  die,  if  ex- 
posed to  the  air  and  sun  ;  but  if  transplanted  in  a  moist 
day,  or  covered,  so  that  evaporation   cannot  take  place,, 


44  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

tlie  plant  does  not  appear  to  feel  the  removal.  So  with 
cuttings  of  many  jilants  thus  pro[iagated ;  if  placed  in 
the  earth  with  a  certain  amount  of  foliage  on,  and  left 
uncovered,  they  will  immediately  die  ;  but  when  we  i)lace 
a  Viell-glass  or  a  hand-glass  over  them,  to  prevent  evapo- 
ration, they  remain  as  fresh  as  though  they  had  roots 
supplying  them  with  moisture  from  the  soil.  It  is  on  this 
account  that  transplanted  trees  so  often  die,  when  the 
branches  and  shoots  are  not  in  proportion  to  the  roots. 
In  transplanting,  a  portion  of  the  roots  is  destroyed, 
and  all  are  more  or  less  deranged,  so  that  their  functions 
are  feebly  performed  for  some  time  after  planting.  If  all 
the  branches  and  shoots  are  left  on,  they  will,  as  usual, 
produce  leaves ;  but  the  absorption  at  the  roots  being  so 
much  less  than  the  exhalation  of  the  leaves,  the  juices 
contained  in  the  tree,  previously  laid  up,  soon  become  ex- 
hausted, the  leaves  droop  and  wither,  and  the  whole  fabric 
perishes.  In  budding,  too,  if  the  whole  leaf  were  left  attach- 
ed to  the  bud,  the  evaporation  would  be  so  great  as  to  kill 
the  bud ;  hence  we  remove  all  but  a  portion  of  the  stalk. 
A  tree  can  neither  mature  its  wood  nor  its  fruit  without 
the  full  and  healthy  exercise  of  the  leaves.  If,  in  the 
growing  season,  a  tree  is  deprived  of  its  foliage  by  blight, 
insects,  etc.,  Ave  see  that  growth  is  entirely  suspended  for 
a  time,  until  new  leaves  are  developed  ;  and  if  the  leaves 
be  removed  from  a  tree  bearing  fruit,  we  see  the  fruit 
shrivel  and  dry  up,  or  ripen  prematurely,  and  become 
worthless.  These  facts,  and  many  others  that  might  be 
cited,  show  the  intimate  connection  existing  between  the 
leaves  and  the  other  organs  of  trees,  and  the  influence 
they  have  on  their  growth  and  productiveness.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  the  opening  of  the  leaf  buds  in  spring  induces 
the  formation  of  new  roots ;  this  is  doubtful,  as  new  roots 
may  be  seen  forming  at  times  when  there  are  no  leaves 
on  the  tree,  and  apparently  no  growth  whatever  going  on 
in  the  buds.    But  it  is  well  known  that  they  will  soon  cease 


A.At'*''^ttTY 


LEAVES.  45 

to  grow  if  leaves  do  not  make  their  appearance.  We 
observe  in  the  case  of  trees,  the  tops  of  which  have  been 
so  much  injured  by  drying  and  exposure,  that  scarcely  a 
sound  bud  is  left  to  grow  ;  in  this  case  the  roots,  although 
in  perfect  order,  remain  nearly  dormant  until  new  shoots 
and  leaves  are  produced,  and  in  proportion  as  the  leaves 
increase,  so  do  the  roots.  The  fact  of  the  absorption  and 
exhalation  by  leaves  of  certain  fluids,  has,  to  a  very  con- 
siderable extent,  established  the  theory  that  the  sap  of 
trees  is  taken  iip  from  tlie  roots,  throxigh  the  cells  or  sap 
vessels  of  the  wood  of  the  trunk  and  branches,  in  a  crude 
state,  and  passes  into  the  leaves  ;  that  in  their  tissue,  spread 
out  under  the  sun's  rays,  it  receives  certain  modifications. 
Carbonic  acid,  which  has  been  taken  in  a  state  of  solution 
from  the  soil,  and  by  the  leaves  from  the  atmosphere,  is 
decomposed,  its  oxygen  is  given  oiF  into  the  air,  carbon 
becomes  fixed,  and  tlius  the  component  j^arts  of  the  tree, 
the  material  of  the  cells,  starch,  sugar,  gum,  etc.,  are 
formed.  After  passing  through  this  purifying  or  concen- 
trating  process,  the  sap  acquires  a  more  solid  consistence, 
and  is  called  cambium  ;  so  prepared,  it  returns  down- 
wards through  the  nerves  or  vessels  of  the  leaf  to  the  base 
of  the  leaf  stalk,  and  then  between  the  wood  and  bark  of 
the  stem;  forming  new  layers  on  its  passage.  Such  is,  at 
present,  the  most  popular  theory  of  the  functions  of  the 
leaves,  and  the  ascent,  assimilation,  and  descent  of  the 
sap.  Some  distinguished  writers  on  the  subject  reject 
this  theory,  alleging  that  "  there  is  no  such  thing  as  crude 
sap  ;  that  as  soon  as  it  enters  the  roots  it  becomes  assimi- 
lated, and  fit  for  the  production  of  new  cells,  and  that  it 
passes  upwards,  forming  new  wood  or  cells  by  a  chemical 
process."*  Observation,  however,  has  clearly  established 
that,  in  the  leaves  of  healthy  trees,  cliemical  processes, 
depending  on  light  and  heat,  and  absolutely  essential  to 


*  Schleiden's  Principles  of  Botany. 


46  GENERAL    PUIXCIPLES. 

the  well-being  of  the  tree,  are  contiiiiirilly  going  on  ;  for 
trees  sluit  out  from  the  light  always  make  a  feeble  growth, 
and  have  a  blanched  and  sickly  hue,  compared  witli  the 
same  species  in  the  free  air,  and  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  If  one  side  or  ])ortion  of  a  tree  is  shaded  or  deprived 
of  its  full  share  of  light,  it  ceases  to  grow  in  its  natural 
way,  and  the  shoots  are  lean,  slender,  and  imperfect. 
2d.  Different  Forms  and  Characters  of  Leaves. — The 


Fii^s.  23  to  27.— FORMS  of  leaves. 
2.3,  oval ;  24,  oblon;;  ;  25,  lanceolate  ;  SO.  ovate  ;  27,  obovate. 

different  sizes  and  forms  of  the  leaves  of  fruit  trees,  the 
divisions  of  their  edgf^s,  th.e  absence  or  presence  of  glands, 
the  smoothness  or  roughness  of  their  surfaces,  are  all, 
more  or  less,  serviceable  in  describing  and  identifying 
varieties. 

The  terras  designating  forms    are  seldom  mathemati- 


LEAVES. 


47 


call)'  correct,  but  merely  inatle  by  comparison  ;  for  in- 
stance— 

Oval  (fig.  23),  when  about  twice  as  long  as  broad,  and 
nearly  of  equal  width  at  both  ends. 

Oblong  (fig.  24),  three  times,  or  more,  longer  than 
broad,  and  differing  but  little  in  width  in  any  part. 

Lance  Shaped^  or  lanceolate^  (fig.  25),  wlien  much  long- 
er than  broad,  and  tapering  gradually  to  a  sharp  point. 


Fi-  ;]0. 


Fig.  28 


Fig.  28,  a  leaf,  folded,  reflexed,  and  finely  serrated,  or  toothed  ;   Fig.  20,  coarsely 
serrated;  Fig.  30,  crenate  or  scolloped. 

Ovate  (fig.  26),  when  twice  as  long  as  broad,  tapering 
to  the  apex,  and  widest  towards  the  base. 

Oborate  (fig.  27),  the  reverse  of  ovate,  the  greatest  di- 
ameter being  in  the  upper  part. 

Round,  rovndish,  approaching  a  circular  form,  like 
fig- 22. 

The  apex  or  point  is  often  a  distinguishing  feature ;  some 
leaves  terminate  suddenly  in  a  sharp  point,  others  are 
drawn  out  to  a  long,  sharp  point, />e6'^"ec?,  whilst  others  are 
nearly  round.     Leaves  difter  much,  too,  in  the  forui  of  the 


48 


GENERAL  PRINCIPLES. 


base ;    some  are  rounded,  some  sharp,  and  some  heart- 
shaped. 

The  divisions  of  the  edges  are  serrated^  or  toothed^  when 
the  edges  are  cut  into  sliarp  teeth,  directed  towards  the 
point  of  the  \ovi^ ;  Jinely  (fig.  28)  or  coarstiy  (fig.  29)  ser- 
rate, as  these  teeth  ai'e  fine  or  coarse ;  doubly  serrate, 
when  the  principal  division,  or  tooth,  is  subdivided.  i 

Crenate,  or  Scolloped  (fig.  30),  when  the  divisions  are 
rounded,  instead  of  being  sharp,  like  teeth. 

Lohed,   when  deeply  cut,  and  the    penetrating  angle 

large,  as  in  the  cur- 
rant, gooseberry, 
grape,  etc.  (Fig.  31.) 

Flat,  when  the 
surface  is  even  (fig. 
22). 

Folded,  when  the 
edges  are  turned 
inward  (fig.  28). 

Beflexed,  when 
the  apex,  or  point, 
turns  backwards, 
giving  the  leaf,  more 
or  less,  the  form  of 
a  ring  (fig.  28). 

Waved,  wrinkled. 

Fil?.  31.— LEAF   OF   THE   CURRANT,    LOBED.  ,,  , 

smooth,  roufjh,  etc., 
are  terms  well  enough  understood,  used  in  describing  leaves. 
The  leaf-stalk  has  often  striking  peculiarities  in  certain 
varieties,  such  as  unusually  long,  stout,  short,  or  slender. 
There  are  sometimes  gland^i  on  the  leaf-stalk,  close  to  the 
base,  and,  in  certain  cases,  on  the  k'af  itself,  that  are 
chiefly  taken  notice  of  in  identifying  varieties  of  the  peach 
and  nectarine ;  these  diflfer  in  shape,  too,  being  globular 
(as  in  fig.  32),  reniform,  or  kidney-shaped  (fig.  33) ;  these 


FLOWERS. 


49 


little  glands  are  supposed  to  be,  and  no  doubt  are,  organs 

of  secretion. 

These  are  all  in- 
teresting items  in  the 
study  of  the  beautiful 
and  almost  endless  va- 
riety of  forms  Avhich 
tlie  different  classes  of 
fruit  trees,  and  even 
different  varieties  of 
the  same  class,  exhibit 


(■■ 


Fig.  33. 


Fig.  33. 


Fig.  32,  .    leaf  of  the  peach,   with  globular 

glands ;  Fig.  33,  the  same,  with  reuiforui,  or 

kidiie>-shaped  glands. 

in  their  foliasre. 


Section  6. — Flowers. 


let.  Different  Parts  of  Flowers.  —  Flowers  are  the 
principal  reproductive  organs  of  trees,  and  consist  of  floral 
envelopes,  the  calyx  and  corolla  ;  and  of  sexual  organs, 
stamens,  and  ^^istils.  Fig.  34,  Avhich  represents  a  flower 
C     P 


Fig.  34. 
Figs.  34  to  36. — diffeuent  parts  of 


Fig.  35.      Fig. 

A  FLOWER. 


Fig.  34,  flower  of  the  peach  cut  open  longitudinally.  .4.  the  calyx;  B.  the  petals; 

C.  stamens;   D,  pistil.    Fig.  35,  a   stamen,  ,1,  nlament,  or  stalk;  B,  anther. 

Fig.  36,  the  pistil,  ^4,  ovary;  B,  style  ;  C,  stigma  ;  the  ovary  is  cut  open  to  show 

the  ovule,  D. 

of  the  peach  cut  open  lengthwise,   shows   the  different 
parts  and  their  position. 

The  Calyx  {A,  fig.  34,)  is  the  outer  covering,  and  is 
usually  green,  like  the  leaves.     Its  parts  are  called  sepals. 
3 


50 


GENERAL   rRmCTPLES. 


These  are  either  distinct  or  more  or  less  united  by  their 

edges.     The  united  portion  is  called  the  calyx-tube^  and 

the  free  points  the  segments. 

The  corolla  {B,  fig.  34,)  is  within  the  calyx,  and  is  the 

colored,  showy  part  of  the  flower ;  its  divisions  are  called 

petals. 

Stamens  (C,  fig.  34),  immediately  within  the  petals,  are 
the  male  oi-gans  of  plants.  The 
delicate,  thread-like  filament  (^4, 
fig.  35),  supports,  on  its  extremity, 
the  anther  {B,  fig.  35).  This 
contains  a  ])owdery  substance,  the 
pollen,  which  is  liberated  when 
the  anther  is  mature. 

The  pistil  {D,  fig.  34  and  fig- 
36,)  is  the  female  organ,  and  stands 
in  the  center  of  the  flower.  It 
consists  of  the  ovary,  at  its  base 
{A,  fig.  36),  Avhich  contains  the 
ovules  or  rudiments  of  seeds 
The  style  {B,  fig.  36)  is  the 
elongated  ])ortion,  and  the  stigma 
{C,  fig.  36,)  is  the  portion  that 
receives  the  fertilizing  powder 
(pollen)  from  the  nnthcrs.  The 
stigma  is  usually  rounded  like  a 
knob,  but  frequently  it  is  incon- 
spicuous. 

Flowers  may  be  deficient  in  any 

of  these  organs  except  the  anthers,  ovary,  and  stigma. 

These    are    indispensable  to   fructification,  and  must  be 

present  in  some  form  or  other,  or  the  flowers  will  be 

barren. 

2d.  Sexual  Distinctions. — The  f  ict  that  the  two  sexes, 

or  sexual  organs,  the  stamens,  and  pistils,  are,  in  certain 

species,  united  on  thQ  same  flower,  and  in  others  on  dif- 


Fig.  37. — FLOWERS    OF   THE 
FILBERT. 


Fiar.  38.— FEMALE,  OR 
PISTILLATE  FLOWER 
OF  THE  STKAWBEIiKY. 


feroiit  flowers,  and  even  on  difFerent  trees,  has  created  the 
necessity  for  the  followmg  distinctions : 

Trees  or  plants  are  called  hermaphrodite  (as  in  fig.  34), 
when  both  stamens  and  pistils  are  present  on  the  same 
flower.  Nearly  all  our  cultivated  fruits  are  of  this  class. 
Monoecious,  when  the  male  and  female  flowers  are  borne 
on  the  same  tree,  as  in  the  filbert  flower  (fig.  37,  A,  the 
male,  and  B,  the  female  flowers). 

Dioecious,  when  the  male  flowers  are  on  one  plant,  and 
the  female  on  another.  A  familiar  in- 
stance, among  cultivated  plants,  is  the 
hop.  The  straicberry  is  not  truly  dioe- 
cious, but  in  many  varieties  we  find  the 
stamens  or  male  organs  so  incompletely 
m»ki  lP~  '•''evelo])ed  (fig._38),  that  they  are  of  no 
^^kw  service  in  fructifying  the  flowers.     Such 

varieties  are  termed  pistillate,  and  we 
l>lant  near  them  varieties  with  an  abund- 
ance of  tliese  organs,  strongly  developed,  as  in  fig.  39. 

3d.  Impregnation. — The  pi-oceas  of  impregnation  is 
effected  in  this  way :  When  the  flowers  first  open,  the 
pollen  granules  are  contained  within  the 
anther.  In  a  short  time,  afler  the  flow- 
er opens,  tlie  anther  bursts,  usually  by 
a  longitudinal  slit,  and  sometimes  by 
other  kinds  of  opening,  and  the  pollen 
is  let  fall  upon  the  stigma,  or  is  carried 
to  it  by  means  of  the  insects  that  fre- 
quent the  flowers  in  search  of  pollen 
and  honey.  The  stigma  is  furnished 
with  a  glutinous,  or  sticky  secretion,  to  which  the  pollen 
adheres  ;  there  it  prolongs  a  minute  tube,  which  penetrates 
through  the  st  jde  of  the  pistil  to  the  ovary,  where  it  reaches 
the  ovule,  and  imjn-egnation  takes  place ;  new  cells  are 
formed  within  the  ovule,  which  results  in  the  production 
of  an  embryo  plant. 


Fiu'.oO.— HEKMAPHUO- 

DITE  FLOWER  OF  TUE 

STRAWBEKUT. 


62  GENERAL   PKINCIPLES. 

This  impregnation  is  sometimes,  from  certain  causes, 
only  partially  eifected  in  the  cases  of  fruit  where  the  ovary, 
or  seed  vessel,  is  composed  of  several  cells,  as  in  the  apple, 
pear,  etc.,  and  hence  the  fruit  takes  an  imperfect,  one-sided 
development  from  the  beginning. 

The  difficulty  that  a])pears  to  arise  in  the  way  of  the 
impregnation  of  the  stigma  of  one  flower  by  the  pollen 
of  another,  distantly  situated,  either  on  the  same  plant,  as 
in  nionfficious  trees,  or  on  different  plants,  as  in  the  dioe- 
vious  ones,  is  w^onderfully  obviated  by  the  provision  that 
nature  has  made  for  its  transmission — not  only  by  the  at- 
mosphere, but  by  insects,  that  pass  from  one  flower  to  an- 
other, feeding  on  their  honeyed  secretions ;  the  pollen 
adhei-es  to  the  bodies  of  the  insects,  and  th.ey  carry  it  from 
one  flower  to  another. 

All  natural  flowers,  of  the  same  species,  present  the 
same  number  of  petals  in  their  flowers ;  but  occasionally 
the  stamens  are  converted  into  petals,  and  thus,  what  are 
called  double  flowers,  are  produced.  Among  fruit  trees 
we  have  double-flowering  apples,  plums,  peaches,  and 
chei'ries.  These  seldom  produce  fruit ;  when  perfectly 
double,  never.  Many  of  our  double  flowers,  roses,  pceo- 
nies,  etc.,  have  been  obtained  by  this  transformation 
of  the  stamens  into  petals.  It  is  supposed  to  be  caused 
by  an  excessively  high  cultivation  given  to  the  plants 
that  produce  the  seeds  fiom  which  these  double  varieties 
spring. 

4.  Period  of  Blossoming. — In  treating  of  fruit-buds, 
allusion  has  been  made  to  the  causes  which,  according  to 
observation  and  exj^eiience,  promote  fruitfulness.  These 
are  chiefly  a  slow  or  moderate  growth,  and  a  branching 
or  spreading,  constrained  form,  instead  of  an  upright  one. 
Some  species  of  trees  bloom  at  a  much  earlier  age  than 
others.  Thus  the  peach,  the  apricot,  and  the  cherry,  will 
bloom  in  nearly  one-fourth  less  time  from  the  bud,  all 
things  being  ecjual,  than  the  pear.     Some  species  bloons. 


FLOWERS.  feS 

at  an  earlier  period  of  the  season  than  others ;  the  apricot 
and  the  peach  bloom  very  early,  and  this  is  the  chief  rea- 
son why  tlie  crop  is  so  often  destroyed  in  localities  snbject 
to  late  spring  frosts.  Among  fruits  even  of  the  same  spe- 
cies there  is  much  difference  in  the  period  of  blooming — 
one  variety  of  apple  being  nearly  two  weeks  later  than 
another.  This,  in  some  sections,  is  an  important  quality, 
w^here  every  day  that  the  blossom  is  retarded  renders  the 
crop  su^er,  from  its  being  more  likely  to  escape  frost. 
These  differences  are  caused  by  various  circumstances. 

1st.  The  Climate. — The  ])eriod  of  blossoming  of  the 
same  species  varies  much  in  different  localities.  Rochester 
i&  at  least  a  week  earlier  than  Buffalo,  although  the  dis- 
tance is  less  that  one  liundred  miles  ;  and  it  is  nearly  two 
weeks  earlier  than  Toronto,  which  is  still  nearer.  The 
large  bodies  of  ice  in  the  lakes,  at  both  Buffalo  and  Toronto, 
have,  no  doubt,  a  considerable  effect  in  retarding  the 
blossoming  period. 

2d.  The  Season  and  Position. — In  the  same  locality,  one 
season  is  frequently  a  week  earlier  than  others,  and  trees 
on  the  south  side  of  a  wall  or  building  will  expand  their 
blossoms  several  days  before  the  same  variety  in  the  open 
ground,  only  a  few  rods  distant,  and  ten  days  to  a  fort- 
night before  those  on  a  north  wall. 

3d.  The  /Soil. — On  warm,  and  light  soils,  the  roots  of 
trees  are  excited  into  activity  much  sooner  than  in  cold, 
damp,  and  heavy  soils,  and  the  blossoming  period  is  earlier 
in  consequence. 

The  Different  Characters  of  Flowers. — Flowers  vary 
in  size.,  form,.,  color.,  and  other  qualities,  even  in  the  same 
species.  In  the  })each,  these  distinctions  are  so  obvious, 
that  one  of  the  principal  chissifications  of  pomologists  is 
founded  on  them.  Thus  there  are  vai'ieties  with  large 
showy  foicers  (fig.  40),  as  the  Serrate  Eai'Iy  York.,  and 
small  (fig  41),  as  Large  Enrly  York.,  Crawford's  Early, 
etc.      The    color   also    presents    variations,    some    being 


54  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

deep^  others  pale  ro<;p,  and  some  almost  white;  two 
or  three  v.irietie>  of  the  peacli  have  flowers  wholly- 
white,  as  the  Snow  Veach.,  for  instance.  In  all  the  other 
fruits,  as  in  apples^  pears,  plrnns^  cherries,  etc.,  the  flowers 
vary  bnt  slightly  in  form 
and  color,  and  the  difler- 
encesare  only  taken  note  of 
in  very  fidl  and  minute 
scientific  descriptions.  A 
few  cases,  however,  are  well 

Fig.  40,  ia"rj,e' flower  of  the  peach;  Fig.  marked,  as  the  Jargovelle 
41,  small  flower  of  the  peach.  jiear,  the  flowers  of  which 

are  nearly  twice  as  large  as  those  of  most  other  pears. 

In  connection  with  the  flowers,  it  may  be  proper  to  ex- 
plain the  important  process  of 

Tlyhridization. — This  is  performed  by  fertilizing  the 
pistil  of  one  species  or  variety,  with  pollen  from  the 
stamens  of  another.  The  seeds  produced  by  the  flower  so 
impregnated  will  ])roduce  a  cross,  or  hybrid,  between  the 
two  parents.  This  process  is  now  well  understood,  and  is 
carried  on  to  a  wonderful  extent,  especially  in  the  pro- 
duction of  new  flowers.  Comparatively  few  of  our  popu- 
lar fruits  have  betn  produced  in  this  way.  A  few  good 
sorts  have  been  produced  by  the  late  Mr.  Knight,  a  distin- 
guished English  experimentalist,  who  effected  much  in  his 
time  towards  establishing  many  diflicult  and  disputed 
points  in  vegetable  physiology.  Nearly  all  the  native 
fruits  of  this  country  are  accidental  hybrils,  or  seedlings. 
A  vast  deal  may  be  done  to  improve,  in  this  way,  all  our 
fruits.  The  size,  hardiness,  and  productiveness  of  one 
variety  may  be  combined  with  the  delicacy  of  texture  and 
flavor  of  another,  a-id  endless  variations  and  improvements 
may  be  effl'cted.  To  obtain  a  true  hybrid,  certain  precau- 
tions are  necessary.  The  two  subjects  selected  must  flower 
at  the  same  time.  The  stamens  must  be  carefully  removed 
from  the  one  intended  for  the  mother,  without  injury  to 


FLOWERS.  55 

the  stigma.  It  must  also  be  guarded  from  accidental  im- 
pregnation by  other  varieties,  and  the  pollen  from  the 
selected  male  be  applied  at  the  [jroper  moment — that  is, 
when  it  bursts  from  the  anther.  Hybridization  is  only 
possible  between  species  closely  related  ;  for,  although  there 
is  a  relation  between  the  apple  and  i\\c  pear,  and  between 
the  gooseberry  and  the  currant,  they  will  not  hybridize ; 
but  ditferent  viriet/'es  of  the  apple  will  hybridize  with 
each  othei-,  and  so  with  all  the  rest. 

It  has  been  regarded  as  impracticable  to  hybridize  the 
native  with  the  foreign  grape,  but  several  parties  claim  to 
have  at  length  succeeded.  The  varieties  thus  produced 
will  be  found  in  the  descriptive  list  of  grapes. 

Several  parties  have,  from  time  to  time,  claimed  to  have 
succeeded  in  crossing  the  Monthly  Alpine  Strawberry  with 
some  of  the  large  fruited  sorts,  but  no  instance  of  this 
kind  has  yet  come  to  our  knowledge,  properly  authen- 
ticated. It  very  often  happens  that  the  process  of  arti- 
ficial impregnation  fiils,  and  a  pure  seedling  of  one  of  the 
parents,  instead  of  a  hybrid,  is  the  result. 

The  prospects  now  are  that  hybridization,  better  under- 
stood than  formerly,  will  yield  important  results  in  the 
amelioration  of  fruits. 

[Since  writing  the  foregoing,  I  understand  that  Colonel 
Wilder  has  really  succeeded  in  producing  hybrids  between 
the  Alpine  and  Hautboy  species  and  the  large  strawber- 
ries, a  march  of  great  im])ortaiice.] 

Blossoming  in  Alternate  Years. — Many  varieties  of 
apples,  pears,  etc.,  fruits  that  take  the  whole  season  to 
mature,  produce  flowers  in  alternate  years  only,  with  great 
regularity.  The  reason  is  supposed  to  be  this  :  The  fruit, 
during  the  bearing  year,  attracts  a  large  quantity  of  the 
ascending  sap  of  the  tree  in  the  same  way  as  the  leaves 
do;  but  instead  of  returning  it  to  the  tree,  it  is  appropri- 
ated by  the  fruit  to  its  own  growth.  The  consequenoe  is, 
the  buds  that  would  have  blossomed  the  following  year,  if 


56  GENERAL   PRIKCIPLES. 

they  had  received  their  due  share  of  nutriment,  fail  in 
attaining  the  proper  condition,  and  produce  only  rosettes 
of  leaves.  During  the  unfruitful  season,  immense  quan- 
tities of  fruit-buds  are  again  brought  forward,  and  the 
year  following,  the  tree  is  overloaded  ;  so  it  proceeds  in 
regular  alternation. 

'  This  is  never  experienced  in  trees  regularly  pruned,  and 
may  be  remedied  by  thinning  out  the  crop  in  bearing 
years,  leaving  on  but  a  reasonable  amount,  that  will  not 
exhaust  the  tree.  The  bearing  years  have  been  complete- 
ly reversed  by  removing  the  blossom-buds,  or  fruits,  on 
the  bearing  yeai'. 

Section   7. — The  Fruit. 

1st.  Character  of  the  Fruit. — As  soon  as  the  ovules  are 
impregnated,  the  ovary  begins  to  swell ;  the  petals,stamens, 
and  other  parts  of  the  flower  fall  off,  and  we  then  say  the 
fruit  is  "se^."  As  a  fruit-bud  is  but  a  transformed  leaf-bud, 
a  fruit  occupies  the  same  relative  connection  with  the  tree 
as  a  branch ;  it  attracts  food  from  the  stem  and  the  atmos- 
phere in  the  same  manner,  and  performs  all  tlie  same  func- 
tions, except  that  it  does  not,  like  the  leaf,  return  anything 
to  the  tree,  but  appropriates  all  to  its  own  use  ;  and  this 
is  the  reason,  as  we  have  before  remarked,  that  trees  hav- 
ing borne  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit  one  season,  are  less  fruitful 
the  next — this  is  the  case  only  with  fruits,  as  the  apple 
and  pear,  that  require  nearly  the  whole  season  to  mature 
them.  Cherries  and  other  fruits,  that  mature  in  a  shorter 
period,  and  that  draw  more  lightly  on  the  juices  of  the 
tree,  do  not  produce  this  exhaustion,  and  consequently 
bear  year  after  year  uninterruptedly. 

2d.  Classification. — In  some  fruits,  as  the  apple,  for  in- 
stance, the  fruit  appeai-s  to  be  formed  below,  or  at  the  base 
of  the  calyx ;  structurally,  it  is  properly  regarded  as  an 
adhesion  of  the  greater  part  of  the  calyx  to  the  ovary ; 


THE    FRUIT. 


57 


the  segments,  or  ])oints  of  the  calyx  are  still  visible  in  the 
mature  fruit,  and  often  servo,  to  some  extent,  by  their 
Bize  and  otlier  peculiarities,  as  being  spread  out,  or  closed 
together  in  a  point,  to  identify  varieties.  In  other  species, 
as  the  plum  and  cherry,  the  fruit  is  forme  I  loithin  the 
calyx,  or  above  it.  Fruits  of  the  former  character,  form- 
ing below  the  calyx,  and  including  it  in  their  structure, 
are  classed  as  inferior — the  apple^pear^  quince^  gooseberry, 
and  currant,  are  all  inferior,  having  the  calyx  adhering. 

Those  formed  within  the  calyx,  and  free  from  it,  are 
called  superior;  such  are  \X\q  peach, pAum,  apricot,  nec- 
tarine, cherry,  raspberry,  strawberry,  and  grape. 

The  more  natural,  popular,  and  useful  classification  of 
fruits  is  that  by  which  they  are  divided  into 

Pomes,  or  Kernel  Fruits,  as  the  apple,  pear,  quince, 
medlar,  etc.  In  speaking  of  these,  we  call  the  enlarged 
accessory  parts  the  flesh,  and  the  dry,  bony,  seed  capsules, 
the  core. 

Drupes,  or  Stone  Fruits,  are  those  which  have  a  peri- 
carp of  two  kinds ;  the  outer  part  soft  and  pulpy,  t\\G  flesh, 
and  the  inner  one  hard  and  bony,  the  pit,  or  stone,  which 
encloses  the  seed  in  a  shell,  like  a  nut ;  as  the  peach,  plum, 
apricot,  cherry,  etc. 

Serries. — These  have  soft,  pulpy  flesh,  containing  seeds  ; 
as  the  gooseberry,  currant,  and  grape. 

Compound  Berries,  like  the  raspberry ,  and  blackberry, 
are  made  up  of  minute  separate  fruits,  each  like  a  stone 
fj-uit,  on  a  very  small  scale.  In  the  strawberry,  the  fruits 
proper  are  the  seed-like  ripened  ovaries,  which  are  more 
or  less  imbedded  in  a  large,  fleshy  receptacle,  which  is  an 
enlargement  of  the  end  of  the  flower-stalk, 

Niits,  as  the  fllbert,  chestnut,  etc.,  are  fruits  with  a  hard, 
bony  covering,  which  are  often  contained  in  husks,  or 
cups,  that,  when  ripe,  open  and  let  the  fruit  drop. 

The  outlines,  or  forms  of  fruits,  and  their  colors,  exliibil 
great  variations,  even  in  the  same  species.     Every  portion 
3* 


58 


GENERAL   PKlNClPLES. 


of  the  fruit,  as  the  skin,  flesh  (T,  fig.  4:>),  core  {E,  fig.  42), 
seeds  {D),  or  stones,  ste7)is  {A),  and  in  kernel  fruits,  the 
c((lj/x  (JB),  has,  in  some  cases,  marked  peculiarities  and  in 
others,  they  are  more  minute  and  scarcely  perceptible  ;  but 

yet,  in  a  strictly  scientilic 
study  of  })omology,  they 
are  of  more  or  less  service. 
It  w  ould  be  foreign  to  the 
purposes  of  this  work  to 
notice  these  points  in  de- 
tail ;  all  that  is  deemed 
necessary,  useful,  or  ap- 
propriate, is  to  point  out 
well-defined  ami  practi- 
cal distinctions,  and  the 

FijJ.  42    —  VEUTICAI.     SECTION     OF     AN         f  p..  ii  .  -V     .    .'I  1 

APPLE,  SHOWING  ITS  DIFFERENT  PAUTs.      1^1  uis    ortiiuaniy    maue 

A,  the  base ;  £,  the  eye  ;  C\  the  fleeli ;  D,  USC  of  in  popular  de- 
the  seed  ;£",  the  core  ;   A,  stem  ;  B,  calyx.       scrilttioilS. 

Cd.  Different  Parts  of  the  Fruit: 

The  Base  (^1)  is  the  end  in  which  tlie  stem  is  inserted. 

The  Eye  {£)  is  the  opposite  end,  in  the  apple,  pear, 
.dtc,  that  have  an  adhering  calyx. 

The  JVeck,  in  pears,  the  contracted  part  near  the  stalk, 
as  seen  in  fig.  50. 

The  Point  is  the  end  opposite  the  stem  in  stone  fruits, 
berries,  etc.,  that  have  no  calyx,  and  consequently  no 
eye. 

The  Pength  is  the  distance  from  stem  to  point,  or  eye, 
A  to  i?,  fig.  42. 

The  Width,  a  line  cutting  the  fruit  across,  or  at  right 
angles  with  the  length. 

The  P((sin,  the  depression  around  the  eye,  or  calyx,  in 
kernel  fruit,  B,  fig.  42. 

The  Cavity,  the  depression  around  the  stem. 

The  Suture,  in  stone  frnits,  the  furrow-like  depression 
running  from  the  base  to  the  point. 


ftlE   FRUIT.  59 

4th.  Different  properties  of  fruits: 

Besides  the  principal  divisions  which  have  been  alluded 
to,  fruits  are  considered  in  regard  iothoiv  size,  eolor^form^ 
texture,  flar or,  and  seas<m  <f  ripening. 

1st.  The  Size. — Besides  the  natural  difference  in  size 
that  exists  amonj^  different  varieties  of  the  same  species, 
as,  for  instance,  between  the  Burtlett  and  Seckel  Pears,  or 
the  I'\dl  Pippin  and  lindy  Apples,  there  are  great  dif- 
ferences between  the  same  varieties,  owing  cliiefly  to  the 
following  cirouinst;mces:  Soil. — Wo  find  that,  in  new 
and  fresh  soils,  the  nutritive  properties  of  which  have  not 
been  impaired  by  cultivation,  as  in  the  virgin  soils  of  the 
West,  fruit  of  the  same  variety  attains  nearly  double  the 
size  that  it  does  in  older  paits  of  the  country,  where  the 
soil  has  long  been  under  cultivation;  and  that  in  the  same 
orchard,  the  tree  growing  in  a  deep,  alluvial  soil,  will  give 
fruit  much  larger  than  the  one  on  a  hard,  gravelly  knoll. 
Culture. — This  has  an  important  influence  on  the  size  of 
fruits.  If  an  orchard  has  been  for  several  years  neglected, 
and  the  ground  about  the  trees  become  covered  with  grass 
and  weeds,  the  fruit  is  small ;  and  if  the  same  orchard  be 
plowed  up,  some  manure  turned  in  around  the  roots, 
and  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  by  tillage,  the 
fruit  will  double  in  size  in  a  single  season.  Seasons. — In 
a  dry  season,  when  the  supply  of  moisture  at  the  roots 
and  in  the  atmosphere  is  very  limited,  fruits  are  invari- 
ably smaller  than  in  seasons  of  an  opposite  character. 
'  Number  of  fruits  on  the  tree. — This  affects  the  size  of  the 
fruit  to  a  great  extent  in  all  seasons,  soils,  and  climates, 
and  under  all  grades  of  culture. 

It  is  perfectly  obvious,  that  the  greater  the  number  of 
fruits  a  tree  bears,  the  smallei-  they  will  be ;  for,  as  they 
derive  their  sustenance  from  the  tree,  a  large  number 
cannot  be  so  well  supplied  as  a  smaller  number.  We 
cannot  go  into  an  orchard  where  there  are  many  varieties 
without  seeing  an  illustration  of  this.     Here  is  a  prolific 


60  GEN^^AT.   PRIKCIPLES. 

variety,  loaded  in  ev  tj  part ;  the  fruits  are  small,  cev 
tainly  not  over  medium  size.  There  is  a  moderate  bearer ; 
its  fruits  arc  thinly  and  evenly  distributed  over  the  tree ; 
its  fruits  are,  consequently,  large.  So  in  the  case  of  fruits 
that  have  been  thinned;  that  is,  a  certain  portion  removed 
while  young,  either  by  accidental  circumstances,  or  by 
design  ;  every  specimen  is  twice  as  large,  as  if  the  whole 
crop  had  been  allowed  to  mature.  The  English  goose- 
berry growers,  in  preparing  their  prize  specimens,  leave 
but  a  few  on  r  Ach  bush — not  over  a  twentieth,  or  perhaps 
a  fiftieth  part  of  the  entire  crop.  So  in  peaches,  grapes, 
etc.,  grown  carefully  in  houses.  "Where  the  size  and 
beauty  of  the  fruit,  and  the  health  and  vigor  of  tlie  trees 
are  kept  in  view,  a  large  portion  of  the  crops,  fi'om  one- 
half  to  two-thirds,  is  thinned  out  before  maturity.  Age 
of  the  trees. — This  influences  the  size  of  fruits  to  a  great 
extent ;  we  see  fruit  so  large  on  young  trees,  as  to  be 
entirely  out  of  character.  As  trees  grow  older,  the  vigor 
decreases,  and  the  number  of  fruits  increase,  and  they  are 
consequently  diminished  in  size.  The  kind  of  stock  has  a 
tendency  to  modify  the  size ;  thns  we  find  many  pears 
much  larger  on  the  quince  stock  than  on  the  pear,  and 
many  apples  larger  on  the  Paradise  than  on  the  common 
apple  stock.  The  reason  of  this  is,  no  doubt,  that  on  the 
quince  and  Paradise  the  juices  of  the  tree  are  better  pre- 
pared, richer,  and  better  suited  to  the  growth  of  the  fruit. 
In  the  common  pear  and  apple  stocks,  the  sap  is  taken  up 
in  greater  quantities,  is  watery,  and  better  adapted  to 
form  Avood  than  fruit. 

CLASSIFICATION    OP    SIZE. 

The  terms  qualifying  the  sizes  of  fruits  are  always  given 
compaj-atively,  in  regard  to  the  two  extremes,  the  largest 
and  the  smallest  of  the  species  ;  for  instance — in  apples, 
we  may  consider  the  Gloria  3Iundi  and  Twenty  Ounce  as 
extremely  large,  and  the  Lady  Apple  as  extremely  small. 


THE    FKUIT.  61 

Thb  te/in«;  ubcv^,,  tht^refore,  are  sucli  as  to  represent  the 
V  \rious  grades  betvVeen  the  two  extremes.     These  are 

Very  large^  as  the  Gloria  Mundi  Apple,  Duchesse 
d^Angoultme  Pear,  Cratcford'^s  Early  Peach,  Yellow  Egg 
Phim,  and  Napoleon  Bigarreau  Cherry. 

Large,  as  the  Baldtcin  Apple,  Bartlett  Pear,  Bed  Cheek 
Melocoton  Peach,  Washifigtoii  Plum,  and  Black  Eagle 
Cherry. 

Jfediuni,  as  the  Bamho  App.'e,  VThite  Doyenne  Pear, 
Imperial  Gage  Plum,  and  the  Atnerican  Amber  Cherry. 

Small,  as  the  Early  Straicberry  Apple,  Dearborn's  Seed- 
ling Vq^t,  Green  Gage  Flnm,  and  Bawjia/i's  May  Cherry. 

Very  Svndl,  as  the  Amire  Johannet  Pear,  Lady  Apple, 
Winter  Damson  Plum,  and  the  J?ididle  {Early  May) 
Cherry. 

The  distance  between  some  of  these  grades,  as  between 
medium  and  large,  etc.,  is  so  short,  that  they  are  frequent- 
ly confounded ;  still,  they  give  a  notion  of  comparative 
size  that  answers  all  practical  purposes.  It  would,  per- 
haps, have  been  more  accurate,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
more  satisfactory  to  persons  entirely  unacquainted  with 
fruits,  to  have  given  the  comparative  measurement  of 
these  difierent  grades  in  inches  and  parts  ;  but  the  varie- 
ties quoted  as  examples  are  common,  and  very  generally 
known. 

2d.  Form. — It  is  exceedingly  difficult,  even  impossible, 
to  find  any  single  term  that  will  give  a  mathematically 
accurate  notion  of  the  forms  of  fruits  ;  for,  although  we 
call  an  apple  round  or  conical,  it  may  not  be,  strictly 
speaking,  either ;  very  likely  it  partakes,  to  some  extent, 
of  both  forms.  But  that  is  no  reason  why  we  should  design 
nate  it  conical  roiaid :  we  simply  call  it  round,  or  rouna- 
ish,  if  nearer  round  than  any  other  form  ;  and  if  it  in- 
clines slightly  to  the  conical,  we  cannot  in  any  other  way 
so  well  convey  the  knowledge  of  that  fact  as  by  simply 
saying  so. 


62 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


In  tlie  Mpple,  the  round  form  prevails,  and  in  the  pear, 
Xhe.  pyiamidal;  lience,  it  is  necessary  to  apply  a  different 
class  of  descriptive  terms  to  each. 


FORMS    OF    APPLES. 


Mound  or  Roundish  (fig.  43). — When  the  outline  is 
round,  or  nearly  so,  the  length  being  about  equal  to  the 
breadth. 

Flat  (fig.  40). — When  the  ends  are  compressed,  and 
the  width  considerably  greater  than  the  length. 


Fi^S.  4S  to  4s.— FORMS    OF    APPLES. 

43,  round;  44,  conical  ;  45,  ovate;  46,  flat:  47,  oblong ;  48,  ribbed. 

Conical  (fig.  44). — In  the  form  of  a  cone,  tapering 
from  the  base  to  the  eye. 

Ovate,  or  egg-shaped  (fig.  45). 

Oblong  (fig.  47). — When  the  length  is  consideiably 
greater  than  tiie  width,  and  the  width  about  equal  at  both 
ends,  not  tapering  as  in  the  conical. 

In  addition  to  these  forms  and  their  various  modifica- 
tions,  some  varieties  are 

Angular^  having  projecting  angles  on  the  sides. 

One-sided,  having  one  side  larger  than  the  other. 


THE    FRUIT. 


63 


Jiibbed  {i8),  when  tlie  surface  presents  a  series  of  ridges 
and  furrows,  running  from  eye  to  stem. 


FORMS    OF    PEARS. 


It  has  been  remarked  that  the  pyramidal  form  prevails 
in  pears ;  but  they  taper  from  the  eye  to  the  stem,  which 
is  just  he  reverse  of  the  tapering  form  in  apples.  Their 
forms  are  designated  thus — 

Pyrifornx. — When  tapering  from  the  eye  to  the  base, 
and  the  sides  more  or  less  hollowed  (concave)  (fig.  49). 


Fif^s.  49  to  55.~FOUMS  of  peaks. 

49,  pyriforni ;  50,  long  pyriform ;  51,  obtuse  pyriform  ;  52,  obovate  ;  53,  turbinate ; 

54,  oval  ;  55,  round. 

Long  Pyriform. — When  long  and  narrow,  and  tapering 
to  a  point  at  the  stem  (fig.  50). 

Obtuse  Pyriform. — When  the  small  end  is  somewhat 
flattened  (fig.  51). 

Obov'de,  or  egg-shaped. — Nearly  in  form  of  an  qjx,^^^  the 
small  end  being  nearest  the  stem  (fig.  52). 

Turbinate,  or  top-shaped. — The  sides  somewhat  round- 
ed, and  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  stem  (fig.  53). 

Oval. — Largest  in  the  middle,  tapering  more  or  less  to 
each  end  (fig.  54). 


64  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES, 

Mound. — When  the  outline  is  nearly  round  (fig.  55) 

FORMS    OF   PEACHES. 

There  is  too  much  uniformity  in  the  forms  of  peaches 
to  render  tlie  adoption  of  any  set  of  terms  descriptive  of 
them  very  serviceable.  They  are  mostly  rounds  occasion- 
ally approaching  to  ohlong  ^ndi  oval;  the  sides  ai-e  fre- 
quently compressed,  flattened,  exhibiting  a  suture  or  fur- 
row, running  from  the  point  to  the  base ;  the  width, 
depth,  etc.,  of  this  suture  are,  in  many  cases,  peculiar,  or 
at  least  worthy  of  note. 

FORMS    OF   PLUMS. 

Plums  are  round,  oval,  or  oblong,  as  the  peach,  and 
marked,  in  some  cases,  by  a  similar  flattening  of  the  sides, 
and  by  the  suture. 

FORMS    OF    CHERRIES. 

Cherries  are  round  or  heart-shaped ;  obtuse  heart- 
shaped,  when  too  round  to  be  fully  heart-shaped ;  and 
pointed,  when  the  point  is  more  than  ordinarily  sharp,  or 
peaked.  The  suture  is  also  taken  note  of,  as  in  plums 
and  peaches. 

Gooseberries  and  Grapes  are  always  round  or  oval. 
Currants,  always  round.  Strawberries,  round,  conical  or 
oval,  sometimes  with  a  neck  ;  that  is,  the  base  is  drawn 
out  at  the  stem  in  the  form  of  a  narrow  neck.  Haspber- 
ries  are  conical,  roundish  or  long. 

3d.  Color. — The  color  of  fruits  dej^ends  much  on  their 
exposure  to  the  sun's  rays.  We  find  that  in  orchard  trees, 
where  the  lieads  are  dense,  and  a  largo  portion  of  the  fruit 
shaded  and  shut  out  from  the  sun,  there  is  a  great  diflfer- 
ence  in  the  color  ;  indeed,  so  great,  frequently,  as  to  make 
their  identity,  from  appearance,  quite  doubtful.    Varieties 


THE  fbuit;  '     65 

that  are  naturally — when  properly  exposed  to  the  sun — 
of  a  bright  red  or  a  glowing  crimson,  remain  green  in  the 
shade.  The  climate,  too,  seems  to  have  considerable  et 
feet  on  the  color.  As  a  general  thing,  we  observe  that 
northern  apples  are  clearer  and  brighter  colored  than 
those  of  the  South. 

Dry  soils  and  elevated  situations  produce  more  highly 
colored  fruit  than  damp  and  low  valleys.  The  terms 
used  in  describing  colors  are  all  simple,  and  well  under- 
stood. 

4th.  Flavor,  in  table  fruits,  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant of  qualities ;  for,  however  large  or  fair  a  fruit  may 
be,  if  insipid  or  astringent  to  an  unpleasant  degree,  or  if 
it  possesses  some  other  disagreeable  quality,  it  is  unfit  for 
the  table.  There  are  various  kinds  of  flavor  even  among 
varieties  of  the  same  species :  in  pears,  particularly,  it  is 
almost  endless;  the  shades  and  degrees  of  sioeet  and  acid^ 
and  the  various  perfumes  that  mingle  with  these,  are 
almost  infinite. 

The  same  circumstances  mentioned  as  favorable  to  high 
and  brilliant  coloring,  are  also  favorable  to  the  production 
of  fine  flavor.  Light,  heat,  a  dry  soil,  and  moderate 
growth,  seem  to  be  all  essential  to  fine  flavor.  On  trees 
somewhat  advanced  in  age,  fruits  are  apt  to  be  higher 
flavored  than  on  young  trees  that  have  just  commenced 
bearing,  and  in  a  dry  than  a  wet  season.  The  philosophy 
of  all  this  is,  that  in  a  damp  soil  or  season,  or  in  a  shaded 
situation,  when  trees  are  young,  and  growing  rapidly,  the 
fruit  receives  more  sap  from  the  tree  than  can  be  properly 
elaborated  by  the  action  of  the  sun  and  atmosphere  on  its 
surface,  and,  consequently,  the  sugary  principle  is  pro- 
duced in  small  quantities — the  juice  is  watery,  sour,  or 
insipid,  as  the  case  may  be. 

The  various  terms  by  which  flavor  is  designated,  such 
as  sweet,  acid,  subacid,  sprightly,  perfumed^  musky ^  spicj/, 
etc.,  are  all  well  understood. 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


Section  8. — The  Seed. 


|S|\  1 


The  perfect  seed  contains  the  rudiment  of  a  plant  of 
the  same  nature  as  that  which  produced  it.  This  rudi- 
ment of  the  new  plant  is  called  the  embryo^  and  is  found 
in  a  more  or  less  developed  state  in  all  seeds.  In  fig.  56 
is  given  an  enlarged  view  of  an  apple  seed  cut  longitu- 
dinally to  show  the  embryo  in  plnce,  and  fig.  57  shows 
the  embryo  of  the  same  after  germination,  the  lettering 
referring  to  the  same  parts  in  both  illusti'ations.  It  consists 
f^"'^^  ^jjjfs.       of  three   parts — the  cotyledons  (a, 

v^  ^^^.Jrlji      figs-  ^^  ^'^'^  ^'^)i  which  are  the  first 
^^^liif  pair  of  leaves,  usually  rudimentary ; 

these  are  the  parts  that  first  make 
their  appearance,  and  are  known  as 
seed  leaves.  The  bases  of  these 
cotyledons  are  united  to  the  radicle^ 
(c),  and  between  them  is  a  bud  (J), 
called  the  plumule.  The  radicle 
and  plumule  are  very  inconspicuous 
in  the  seed  (fig.  56),  but  as  soon  as 
the  seed  is  excited  into  germina- 
tion by  the  heat  and  moisture  of 
the  earth,  the  radicle  elongates,  one 
end  penetrates  the  soil,  and  roots 
soon  start  from  it,  and  the  upper 
portion  ascends  in  an  opposite  direction,  bearing  the 
plumule,  and,  in  the  apple,  etc.,  the  cotyledons  to  the  sur- 
face, where  they  find  the  necessary  air  and  light.  The 
plumule,  which  is  really  a  terminal  bud,  is  soon  lifted  up 
b)"^  the  development  of  a  section  of  stem,  unfolds  its  leaves, 
and  exposing  another  bud,  which  in  its  turn  repeats  the 
same  process,  and  thus  the  growth  of  the  tree  goes  for- 
ward. 

It  has  been  remarked  tliat  a  seed  contains  the  rudiments 
of  a  plant  similar  to  that  on  which  it  is  produced;  but 


Fig.  56,  apple  seed  divided: 

Fig.  57,  germinating  seed. 

a,  cotyledons  ;  6,  plumule  ; 

c,  radicle. 


THE    SEED.  67 

this  neetls  some  explanation.  In  distinct  species^  this  will 
be  true  ;  but  the  seeds  of  varieties  that  have  been  pro- 
duced by  culture  and  hybridizing,  seldom,  or  nevei-,  repro- 
duce exactly  their  like,  hence  the  necessity  for  the  various 
artificial  methods  of  multiplication,  such  as  grafting,  bud- 
ding, layering,  etc.  It  is  to  these  operations  that  we  are 
indebted  for  the  preservation  of  varieties  that  were  origi- 
nated hundreds  of  years  ago. 

Germination. — Heat  and  moisture,  air,  and  the  exclu- 
sion of  light,  are  all  necessary  to  the  healthy  and  perfect 
germination  of  seeds.  It  may  be  well  to  consider,  briefly, 
the  part  which  each  of  these  has  to  perform. 

1st.  Moisture. — If  seeds  are  sown  in  a  time  wlien 
the  ground  is  parched,  they  will  show  no  signs  of  germi- 
nation until  it  is,  in  some  Avay  or  other,  moistened.  The 
quantity  of  moisture  necessary  to  a  seed  depends  on  the 
nature  of  its  covering,  and  its  size.  A  small  seed,  with 
a  thin  covering,  will  vegetate  much  sooner,  and  with  less 
moisture,  than  a  large  seed,  with  a  hard,  bony  coveiing. 
The  moisture  must,  in  the  fire^  place,  soften  the  covering, 
penetrate  to  the  mealy  part  of  the  seed,  and  prepare  it 
for  the  chemical  changes  necessary  to  convert  it  into  f^jod 
for  the  embryo  plant.  If  apple  or  pear  seeus  be  kepi  in 
a  dry,  warm  room  all  winter,  they  will  not  be  likely  t(» 
vegetate  the  succeeding  spring,  but  if  sown,  will  probably 
lie  in  the  ground  all  summer,  and  possibly  germinate  the 
spring  following.  If  cheny  seeds  are  kept  dry  for  any 
length  of  tiraCj  say  two  or  three  months,  they  will  not 
germinate  the  season  following;  and  peaches  and  plums 
have  actually  to  be  in  the  ground  all  winter  to  insure 
their  germination  the  succeeding  spring.  Seeds  will  ger- 
minate much  quicker  when  freshly  gathered  than  after 
they  have  dried,  because  heat,  moisture,  and  air  have 
easier  access  to  them,  and  act  more  quickly  on  them. 
These  facts,  of  which  all  are  well  aware,  show  the  necessi- 
ty for  moisture,  and  the  nature  of  its  influence. 


GENERAL    PKINCIPLES. 


2d.  Heat  is  the  next  most  important  element.  Seeds 
do  not  grow  in  winter.  We  sow  our  apple,  pear,  peach, 
and  2>lum  seeds  in  November,  but  they  show  no  signs  of 
germination  until  a  cliange  of  season.  When  the  warmth 
of  spring  penetrates  the  soil,  it  reaches  the  seed,  and,  in 
connection  with  the  moisture  already  imbibed,  induces 
chemical  changes,  which  excite  tlie  vital  energies  of  the 
germ,  decompose  the  mealy  part  of  the  seed,  and  prepare 
it  for  the  temporary  nutrition  of  the  young  jilant. 

3d.  Air. — Although  seeds  may  have  heat  and  moisture 
in  the  requisite  proportions,  still  it  has  been  proved,  by 
many  experiments,  that  without  air,  germination  cannot 
take  place. 

Practical  cultivators  are  aware  that  seeds  planted  too 
deeply  do  not  grow ;  many  kinds  will  lie  buried  in  the 
ground  for  years  without  growing,  and  when  turned  up 
near  the  surface,  will  germinate  immediately.  It  is  the 
oxygen  of  the  air  that  constitutes  its  importance  ;  it  pro- 
duces, by  forming  new  combinations  with  the  constituents 
of  the  seed,  that  chemical  process  which  converts  the 
starch  into  gum  and  sugar,  as  we  observe  in  ordinary 
cases  of  fermentation. 

4th.  Exclusion  of  Light. — The  manner  in  which  self- 
sown  seeds  in  the  forest  are  covered  with  fallen  and  de- 
caying foliage,  plainly  indicates  that  nature  never  intend- 
ed the  light  to  strike  germinating  seeds.  A  seed  entirely 
exposed  would  be  at  one  time  saturated  with  moisture, 
and  at  another  parched  with  drouth  ;  chemical  changes 
would  be  alternately  promoted  and  checked,  until  the 
vital  principle  would  be  destroyed,  or  so  weakened  as  to 
produce  a  feeble  and  worthless  plant.  The  depth  of  the 
covering  should  always  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the 
seeds.  Small  and  delicate  seeds  may  be  sown  almost  on 
the  surface,  whilst  large  ones  may  be  imbedded  to  the 
depth  of  four  or  five  inches.  The  small  seed  requires  lit- 
tle moisture,  and  has  but  a  feeble  force  to  penetrate  an 


earthy  covering ;  but  the  large  requires  much  moisture, 
and  has  force  enough  to  push  its  way  up. 


CHAPTER    II. 


Section  1. — Different. Kinds  of  Soil. 

Soils  are  usually  designated  hy  terms  expressive  of  the 
predominant  material  in  tlieir  composition  ;  thus  we  hear 
of  sandy,  loamy,  gravelhj,  clayey,  calcareoiis,  or  limy,  and 
allovial  soils. 

A  sandy  soil  is  that  in  Avhich  sand  is  tlie  principal  in- 
gredient. Sucli  soil  is  usually  quite  defective.  It  is  so 
porous,  that  it  parts  almost  instantaneously  with  moisture, 
and  plants  in  it  suffer  from  drouth.  All  the  soluble 
parts  of  manures  are  also  quickly  washed  out  of  it,  and 
hence  it  requires  continual  additions  to  produce  even  a 
scanty  growth.  The  great  point  in  improving  it  is  to 
render  it  more  retentive  by  the  addition  of  clay,  ashes, 
etc. 

A  clayey  soil  is  that  in  which  clay  predominates.  It 
may  be  considered  tlie  opposite  of  sandy,  inasmuch  as  its 
defects  are,  that  it  retains  moisture  too  long,  is  too  adhe- 
sive ;  in  dry  weather  it  becomes  as  hard  as  a  burnt  brick, 
impervious  to  dews  or  light  showers,  and  when  thoroughly 
saturated  witli  wet,  it  is  tough,  and  requires  a  long  time 
to  dry.  No  fruit  tree  succeeds  well  in  such  a  soil ;  but  it 
is  capable  of  being  improved  and  fitted  for  many  species, 
and  especially  the  plum  and  the  pear.  The  obvious  way 
to  improve  it  is,  by  incorporating  with  it  sand,  muck,  or 
leaf  mould. 


'70  GENE  UAL   I'mNClPtES. 

A  gravelly  soil  is  one  made  up  in  greateT  part  of  smalV 
stones,  pebbles,  decomposed  ruck,  etc.  ;  such  soils,  as  a 
general  thing,  are  unfit  for  fruit  trees,  unless  great  labor 
is  incurred  in  trenching,  deepening,  and  mixing  with 
clay,  muck,  etc.,  of  opposite  characters. 

A  loamy  soil  is  one  we  hear  a  great  deal  about,  and 
fniay  be  understood  in  various  ways.  It  may  be  considered 
a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sandy,  clayey,  and  vegetable 
soil.  It  is  neither  so  light  as  tlie  samdy,  on  the  one  hand, 
nor  so  tenacious  as  clay  on  the  otlier ;  and,  as  a  general 
thing,  contains  such  elements,  and  is  of  such  a  texture,  as 
to  render  it  eligible  for  all  ordinary  purposes  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  especially  so  for  fruit  trees.  Loamy  soils  are 
spoken  of  as  sandy  loams  when  sand  foi-ms  a  large  ingre- 
dient— say  one-half  of  their  composition  ;  gravelly,  when 
pretty  largely  mixed  with  small  stones  ;  calcareous^  when 
lime  is  found  in  them. 

Calcareous  soils  have  a  large  amount  of  lime  mixed 
with  the  other  ingredients  of  which  they  are  composed. 
All  the  lands  in  limestone  districts  are  of  this  character, 
and,  as  a  general  thing,  are  well  adapted  to  fruit  culture. 

Peaty  soil  consists  chiefly  of  vegetable  mould  from  de- 
cayed marsh  plants,  in  low,  wet  places.  It  is  unfit,  in 
itself,  for  fruit  trees,  but  is  valuable  for  improving  both 
light  and  heavy  soils. 

Alluvial  soils  are  made  up  of  decomposed  vegetable 
substances,  tlie  sediment  of  rivers,  and  materials  washed 
down  from  neighboring  hills  ;  the  valleys  of  all  our  rivers 
and  streams  are  composed  of  this,  and  it  is  the  richest 
of  all  soils.  Fruit  trees  in  such  soils  make  a  rank, 
vigorous  growth,  but  they  are  not  so  hardy  nor  so  fruit- 
ful, nor  is  the  fruit  so  high  flavored  as  on  soils  with  more 
sand,  clay,  or  gravel,  and  less  vegetable  mould. 

In  treating  of  the  different  classes  of  fruits,  we  shall 
refer  to  the  particidar  soils  best  adapted  to  them. 


71 


Section   2. — Different  Modes  of  Improving  Soils. 

In  regard  to  depth,  soils  vary  materially,  some  being 
not  over  eight  or  ten  inches  in  depth  of  surface,  others  a 
foot,  while  in  deep  alluvial  valleys  they  are  often  two  feet. 
For  orchard  and  garden  purposes,  a  deep  soil  is  quite 
essential,  to  enable  the  roots  to  penetrate  freely  in  search 
of  food,  and  to  enable  them  to  withstand  the  demands  of 
protracted  drouths.  Few  soils  in  their  ordinary  condi- 
tion of  farm  culture  are,  in  this  respect,  suitable  for  trees. 
Even  where  naturally  deep  and  loamy,  if  the  upper  part 
only  (say  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  which  is  as  deep  as 
most  people  plow)  be  in  a  friable  condition,  it  cannot  be 
considered  as  in  a  proper  state  for  the  reception  of  trees, 
for  their  roots  cannot  be  confined  to  six  inches  of  the  sur- 
face. Some  means  of  loosening  and  deepening  must  be 
resorted  to,  and  what  are  they  ? 

1.    SUBSOIL    PLOWING. 

This  is  the  cheapest  and  best  method,  where  a  large 
quantity  of  ground  is  to  bo  prepared  for  extensive  plant- 
ing. The  common  plow  goes  first,  and  takes  as  deep  a 
furrow  as  practicable.  The  subsoiler  follows  in  the  same 
furrow,  and  loosens,  without  turning  up,  the  lower  part 
of  the  surface,  and  a  part  of  the  subsoil.  Except  in  cases 
where  the  subsoil  is  a  very  stiff  clay,  or  a  hard  gravel, 
and  near  the  surface,  the  two  plows  can  go  to  the  depth 
of  eighteen  or  twenty  inches.  This  is  our  mode  of  pre- 
paring nursery  grounds.  If  a  single  plowing  in  this  way 
does  not  accomplish  the  desired  end,  a  second  may  be 
given,  going  down  still  deeper. 

We  had  a  piece  of  soil,  the  surface  of  which  was  about 
a  foot  deep,  of  black  vegetable  mould,  with  a  slight  ad- 
mixture of  sand,  resting  on  a  stiff  clay  subsoil,  which 
prevented  the  water  from  passing  off.     In  this  condition 


72  GENERAL    PRIrfCIPLES. 

we  found  it  entirely  unfit  for  trees ;  we  subsoil  plowed  it 
six  or  eight  inches  deep,  turning  up  the  clay  subsoil,  and 
mixing  it  with  the  surfice  ;  we  also  drained  it,  and  spread 
over  the  surface  the  clay  that  came  out  of  the  drains,  and 
in  this  condition  we  find  it  producing  the  finest  trees, 
especially  apples,  pears,  and  plums.  The  soil  is  more 
substantial,  and  the  surface  water  passes  oiF  freely. 

2,    TRENCHING. 

In  gardens,  too  limited  in  extent  to  admit  of  plows,  or 
where  it  is  desired  to  make  the  soil  thoroughly  and  per- 
manently deep,  trenching  is  the  means. 

The  spade  is  the  implement  used  in  this  operation.  A 
trench,  two  feet  wide,  is  opened  on  one  side  of  the  ground, 
and  the  earth  taken  out  of  it  is  carried  to  the  opposite  side. 
Another  trench  is  opened,  the  surface  spadeful  being 
thrown  in  the  bottom  of  the  first,  and  the  next  lower  on  the 
top  of  that,  and  so  on  until  it  is  opened  the  required  depth, 
which,  for  a  good  fruit  garden,  should  be  about  two  feet. 
If  the  subsoil  be  poor  and  gravelly,  it  is  better  to  loosen 
it  up  thoroughly  with  a  pick,  and  let  it  remain,  than  to 
tbrow  it  out  on  the  surface.  When  the  whole  plot  is 
tienched  over  in  this  way,  the  earth  taken  out  of  the  first 
trench  will  fill  up  the  last  one,  and  the  work  is  done.  If 
the  soil  be  poor,  a  layer  of  well-decomposed  manure  may 
be  added  alternately  with  the  layers  of  earth  ;  and  if  the 
soil  be  too  light  and  sandy,  clay,  ashes,  etc.,  can  be  add- 
ed ;  and  if  too  heavy,  sand,  lime,  muck,  peat,  scrapings 
of  dead  leaves  from  the  woods,  or  any  other  material  cal- 
culated to  render  it  porous  and  friable.  If  a  garden  is 
thus  trenched  in  the  fall  or  winter,  and  then  turned  over 
once  in  the  spring,  to  effect  a  thorough  mixtui-e  of  all  the 
materials,  it  will  be  in  suitable  order  for  planting.  This 
is  something  like  the  way  to  prepare  soil  for  a  garden  ; 
and  let  no  one  say  it  is  too  troublesome  o;*  too  expensive, 


SOILS.  '7B 

for,  in  two  years,  the  extra  ])leasure  and  profit  it  will  yield 
will  pay  for  all.  Notliing  is  so  expensive  nor  so  trouble- 
some as  an  ill-prepared  soil. 

3.    DKAINING. 

There  is  a  false  notion  very  prevalent  among  people, 
that  where  water  does  not  lodge  on  the  surface  of  a  soil, 
it  is  "  dry  enough."  However  this  may  he  in  regard  to 
meadows  or  annual  crops,  it  is  quite  erroneous  when  ap- 
plied to  orchards  or  fruit  gardens.  Stagnant  7n<nst7tre, 
either  in  the  surface  or  subsoil,  is  highly  injurious — ruin- 
ous to  fruit  trees.  In  such  situations,  we  invarial)ly  find 
them  unthrifty  and  unfruitfid,  the  bark  mossy,  and  the 
fruit  imperfect  and  insipid.  All  the  soils,  then,  not  per- 
fectly free  from  stagnant  moisture,  both  above  and  below, 
sliould  be  drahied.  In  draining,  it  is,  of  course,  neces- 
sary to  have  a  fall  or  outlet,  for  the  water.  Having  se- 
lected this,  the  next  point  is  to  open  the  drains.  We 
usually  make  them  three  feet  deep,  and  wide  enough  to 
give  sufficient  room  to  work — say  three  feet  wide  at  top 
narrowing  gradually  to  six  inches  at  the  bottom,  which 
should  be  even,  and  sloping  enough  to  the  outlet  of  the 
water  to  enable  it  to  run.  Draining  plows  are  now  used 
advantageously,  lessening  very  much  the  expense  of 
opening  the  drains.  The  plow  is  constructed  something 
like  the  subsoiler,  and  the  horses  are  atta(!hed  with  a  long 
evener,  so  that  one  can  walk  on  each  side  of  the  drain. 

A  sufficient  number  of  men  follow  the  plow  to  thi'ow 
out  the  eai'th  with  sliovels  as  fast  as  it  is  loosened. 

The  two-inch  pipe  tile  is  the  best  for  common  drains. 
For  outlet  drains,  the  size  inust  be  proportioned  to  the 
number  of  small  drains  which  discharge  into  it. 

Those  who  have  much  draining  to  do,  and  need  infor- 
mation on  the  subject,  should  procure  a  work  upon  the 
subject. 


74  GENEUAL  rumciPLES. 

Where  draining  tiles  are  not  to  be  had  conveniently, 
small  stones  may  be  used.  The  bottom  of  the  drain 
should  be  filled  with  them  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten 
inches.  In  using  these,  the  drains  require  to  be  at  least 
six  inches  deeper  than  for  tiles,  in  order  that  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  stones  can  be  used  without  coming  too  near 
the  surface.  Some  brush,  or  turf,  with  the  grassy  side 
downwards,  should  be  laid  on  the  stones  before  filling  in 
the  earth,  to  keep  it  from  filling  up  the  crevices. 

Objections  are  sometimes  made  to  draining  for  orchards 
on  the  ground  that  the  roots  may  get  into  the  drains,  and 
fill  them  up.  This  difficulty  is  obviated  by  placing  the 
rows  of  trees  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  drains. 


CHAPTER  in. 


Section  1. — Importance  of  Manures. 

No  soil,  whatever  may  be  its  original  fertility,  can  sus- 
tain a  heavy  and  continued  vegetation  for  many  years 
without  becoming,  to  some  extent,  exhausted.  Indeed, 
there  are  few  j^eople  so  fortunate,  except  those  who  settle 
upon  new,  uncultivated  lands,  as  to  procure  a  soil  that 
does  not  need  manuring  to  fit  it  for  the  first  planting  with 
trees.  It  is,  then,  a  matter  of  importance  for  every  man, 
who  has  more  or  less  land  to  cultivate,  to  inform  himself 
well  on  the  subject  of  saving,  preparing,  and  applying 
manures.  In  this  country,  the  only  class  of  men,  general- 
ly  speaking,  who  can  be  properly  said  to  collect  and 
manage  manures  with  system  and  care,  are  nurserymen 
ajid  market  gardeners  near  our  large  towns.     It  is  very 


MANURES.  75 

seldom  that  people  generally  give  the  matter  a  thought 
until  garden-making  time  comes  around  in  the  spring, 
and  then  anything  in  tlic  form  of  manure  is  carried  into 
the  garden,  and  applied  whether  fit  or  unfit.  This  is  not 
*he  proper  course. 

Every  garden  should  have  its  manure  heap,  that,  in  the 
fall  or  spring,  when  it  comes  to  be  applied,  will  cut  like 
2)aste.  In  that  state  only  is  it  safe  to  ai)ply  it.  All  parts 
of  it  are  then  decomposed  thoroughly ;  all  seeds  of 
noxious  plants  are  dead,  and  it  is  in  a  condition  capable 
of  yielding  at  once,  to  the  roots  of  growing  plants,  healthy 
nutrition,  that  will  produce  a  vigorous, Jirm,  sound,  and 
fruitful  groicth  ,'  and  this  is  precisely  what  is  wanted : 
far  better  to  have  a  tree  starved  and  stunted,  than  forced 
into  a  rank,  plethoric  growth,  with  crude,  ill-prepared 
manures. 

Section  2. — Preparation  of  Manures. 

The  best  gardeners  pursue  a  system  something  like 
this  :  A  trench  is  prepared,  two  or  three  feet  deep,  and 
large  enough  to  hold  what  manure  may  be  wanted.  In 
the  bottom  of  this  trench,  a  layer  of  mxiek,  grassy  turf, 
ashes,  anything  and  eveiything  capable  of  being  decom- 
posed, is  laid  down,  say  a  foot  deep.  On  the  top  of  this, 
a  thick  layer  of  stable  or  barn-yard  manure,  two  or  three 
feet  deep,  then  another  layer  of  muck,  gypsum,  etc.  In 
this  way  it  remains  until  more  manure  lias  accumulated 
around  the  stables;  it  is  then  carried  and  deposited  in 
another  layer,  with  a  layer  of  the  other  materials  on  the 
top.  The  manure  should  always  be  saturated  with  mois- 
turc,  and  trodden  down  firmly  to  hasten  its  decay;  and  if 
an  occasional  load  of  night  soil  could  be  mixed  in  with 
it,  all  the  better.  The  layer  of  muck  and  other  substances 
bemg  always  placed  on  the  top  of  the  last  layer  of 
manure  absorbs  the  evaporations  of  the  heap,  and  hastens 


76  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

the  decay  of  all.  When  stable  manure  is  thrown  down 
and  left  uncovered,  a  dense  steam  will  be  seen  to  rise 
from  it ;  and  this  is  the  very  essence  of  it  escaping  to  be 
lost ;  and  if  it  be  thrown  down  in  a  heap  dty,  it  will  im- 
mediately burn — that  is,  dry  rot.  Its  enriching  ingredi- 
ents all  pass  off  by  evaporation,  and  there  is  nothing  left 
but  its  ashes,  so  to  speak. 

When  the  heat  has  accumulated  for  four  or  five 
months,  as  described,  the  whole  should  be  turned  over, 
completely  mixed,  and  piled  up  in  a  compact,  firmly 
trodden  mass,  when  it  will  undergo  further  decomposition, 
and,  in  a  short  time,  become  like  paste.  Adjoining  every 
manure  heap  there  should  be  an  excavation,  to  receive  its 
liquid  drainage,  in  order  that  it  may  be  saved,  and  either 
applied,  in  the  growing  season,  in  a  hquid  state,  diluted 
with  water,  or  be  thrown  over  the  heap. 

"  S|)ecial  manures  "  have  been  much  talked  of  lately. 
By  the  word  "  special,"  is  meant  a  particular  quantity, 
of  a  particular  mixture,  for  certain  species,  and  even  for 
certain  varieties  of  fruits.  Nearly  all  the  suggestions  on 
the  subject  are  speculative,  and  unreliable.  The  subject 
is  an  important  one,  but  \ye  want  direct  and  careful  ex- 
periments. It  is  only  when  we  know  to  a  certainty  what 
material  certain  trees  need  most  of,  and  in  what  degree  it 
abounds,  or  is  wanting  in  our  soil,  that  we  can  apply  it 
safely.  The  experience  of  farmers  and  gardeners,  grain 
and  fruit  growers,  all  over  the  world,  affords  undoubted 
evidence  of  the  enriching  qualities  of  stable  manure.  On 
all  soils,  and  for  all  sorts  of  crops,  it  is  an  unfailing  and 
powerful  fertilizer ;  and  we  make  it  the  base  of  all  our 
manure  and  compost  heaps.  By  mixing  with  it  the  in- 
gredients we  have  mentioned,  we  hasten  its  decay,  save 
its  parts  from  waste,  and,  at  the  same  time,  combine  with 
it  otlier  substances  that  will  not  only  enrich,  but  improve 
the  texture  of  soils,  and  increase  tlie  supply  of  the  mineral 
substances  required  by  plants.     Dr.  Daubney,  a  distin- 


MANURES.  77 

guished  writer  on  tlie  character  and  improvement  of 
soils,  etc,  says :  "  Fortunately,  we  are  provided,  in  the 
dung  of  animals,  with  a  species  of  manure  of  which  the 
land  can  never  be  said  to  tire,  for  this  simple  reason — that 
it  contains  within  itself  not  one  alone,  but  all  the  ingre- 
dients which  plants  require  for  their  nutrition,  and  that, 
too,  existing  in  the  precise  condition  in  which  they  are 
.  most  readily  taken  in  and  assimilated."  But  a  good  sub- 
stitute for  this  article,  wliere  it  cannot  be  obtained,  is  an 
im|)ortant  point.  Some  time  ago,  we  noticed  in  the  re- 
port of  a  discussion  on  manures  in  Boston,  that  the  Hon. 
M.  P.  Wilder,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  horticultu- 
rists in  America,  stated  that  he  had  found  the  following 
compost  equ;d  to  stable  manure  for  gardening  purposes 
generally,  and  for  fruit  trees. 

"  One  cord  of  meadow  muck,  having  been  exposed  to 
the  action  of  the  air  and  frost  at  least  one  year ;  twelve 
bushels  leached  ashes  ;  six  bushels  crushed  bones.  This 
mixture  cost  him  at  the  rate  of  |4.50  cents  per  cord. 
Latterly,  he  added  to  this  his  stable  manure,  and  about 
an  eighth  of  the  whole  bulk  of  fine  refuse  charcoal  from 
the  depot  of  venders,  which  was  delivered  to  him  at  $5 
per  cord  ;  and  in  this  way  he  found  it  the  best,  as  a  gen- 
eral manure,  he  had  ever  used.  On  fruit  trees  its  effect 
was  remarkable. 

"  In  the  spring  of  1847,  he  planted  a  square  in  the  nur- 
sery with  imported  trees  from  England,  this  compost  hav- 
ing been  spread  and  jdowed  in.  These  trees  were  from 
four  to  five  feet  in  height,  and  although  it  is  not  usual 
for  trees  to  make  a  large  growth  the  first  year,  they  ac- 
quired branches  of  three  to  four  feet. 

"  In  June  last,  which  is  very  late  to  set  out  trees,  he 
prepared  another  square  on  rather  poor  land,  and  i)lanted 
trees  just  received  from  England  upon  it.  The  soil  had 
been  thrown  up  to  the  frost  the  previous  winter,  and  the 
compost  here  was  applied  in  the  trenches,  near  the  roots. 


78  GENERAL    rKINOIPLES, 

Mr.  Wilder  exhibited  tAvo  shoots  Avhich  had  grown  from 
those  trees  since  they  were  set,  in  June.  The  shoots 
were  four  feet  in  length,  and  the  wood  hard,  and  well 
ripened." 

In  addition  to  all  these  sources  for  manure,  it  may  be 
added  that  fallen  leaves,  scrapings  of  streets,  weeds, 
wood  chips,  sawdust,  the  ashes  of  all  prunings  of  trees 
and  brush,  soot,  blood,  animal  flesh,  soap-suds,  and  slops 
from  the  kitchen,  and,  in  fact,  everything  decomposable 
may  be  used  to  increase  the  bulk  of  the  manure  hea}), 
taking  care  that  evei-ything  likely  to  waste  by  evapora- 
tion be  covered  at  once  witli  mu  k,  charcoal,  or  some 
material  calculated  to  absorb  the  gases  evolved  by  decom- 
position. We  very  frequently  see  people,  in  the  spring 
of  the  year,  when  their  garden  is  undergoing  a  purifying 
and  fitting  up  process,  carry  to  the  highway  all  the  brush, 
dry  stems  of  plants,  and  all  the  wreck  of  the  previous 
season's  work,  there  to  make  a  bonfire  to  get  it  out  of  the 
way,  while  at  the  same  moment  they  complain  sadly  of 
the  lack  of  manure. 

There  was  no  such  thing  as  a  manure  heap  on  the 
premises. 

Section  3. — Modes  of  Applying  Manure. 

Where  an  acre  or  several  acres  of  ground  are  to  be 
prepared  for  trees,  the  better  way  is  to  spead  the  manure 
over  the  surface,  and  turn  it  in  with  the  plow.  When 
it  is  scarce,  and  economy  necessary,  it  may  be  applied 
around  the  roots,  by  mixing  with  the  earth  at  planting 
time. 

Quantity  to  he  Applied. — This,  of  course,  depends  on 
two  things — the  necessities  of  the  soil,  and  the  quality  of 
the  manure.  If  the  land  be  poor,  an  even  covering  of 
two  or  three  inches  should  be  given;  if  in  tolerably  good 
condition,  one  inch  will  be  sutticient.     One  inch  of  well- ' 


MANURES.  79 

decomposed  animal  manure  will  be  equal  to  three  inches 
of  a  partially  decayed  compost. 

Section  4. — Liquid  Manure. 

Manure,  in  a  liquid  state,  has  these  advantages  to  recom- 
mend it :  It  can  be  applied  to  trees  and  plants  in  a  grow- 
ing stnte  without,  in  the  least,  disturbing  the  surface  of 
the  soil,  and  it  supplies,  at  the  same  time,  both  nutriment 
and  moisture.  It  can  be  applied  to  beaiiiig  trees,  stravv- 
berries,  etc.,  in  fruit,  if  defective ,  in  \'igor,  or  suffering 
from  drouth,  and  yield  an  immediate  sustenance,  that 
will  enable  them  to  produce  much  larger  and  finer  fruit 
than  they  could  have  done  without  it. 

It  may  either  be  collected  in  a  tank,  kept  on  purpose 
near  the  barns,  or  it  may  be  made  when  wanted  by  dis- 
solving mainire  in  water.  It  may  be  much  stronger  for 
trees,  the  roots  of  which  are  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  surface,  than  for  such  plants  as  have  their  roots  near 
tlie  surface.  It  is  the  only  prompt  and  effectual  stimu- 
lant for  trees  on  a  poor  soil,  to  en.ible  them  to  perfect 
their  crop.  We  have  frequently  witnessed  its  astonishing 
effects.  It  should  be  applied  in  the  evening,  and  in  such 
quantity  as  to  penetrate  to  the  roots  ;  half  a  dozen  water- 
ings will  be  sufficient  in  most  cases,  but  it  is  better  to 
apply  it  well  diluted,  and  often,  than  a  smaller  quantity, 
too  strong.  A  dozen  shovelfuls  of  animal  manure  will 
make  a  barrel  of  liquid  powerful  enough  for  most  pur- 
poses ;  and  if  pure  liquid  soakage  of  the  manure  heap  or 
urine  of  animals  is  used,  at  least  one-half  rain-water 
should  be  added.  Soap-suds  forms  an  excellent  liquid 
manure  for  all  trees.  The  grape-vine  is  especially  bene- 
fited by  liberal  and  frequent  application. 


OU  GENERAL   rRINClPLES,  , 

CHAPTER    IV. 

THE   DIFFERENT   MODES  OF    PROPAGATING    FRUIT    TREES. 

General  Hemwks. — The  propagation  of  fruit  trees  may 
be  classed  under  two  principal  lieads  —  the  JVatvral, 
which  is  by  seeds  ;  and  the  Artificial,  by  the  division  of 
the  plants,  as  in  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  buds,  and  grafts, 

PROPAGATIOX    BY    SEEDS. 

Seedling  fruit  trees  are  propagated  either  to  obtain  new 
varieties,  or  stocks  for  budding  or  grafting.  It  is  only 
where  thve  very  rudest  system  of  fruit  culture  is  practised 
— as,  for  instance,  in  newly-settled  countries- —that  seed- 
lings are  planted  out  to  bear,  for  the  reason  that,  unless 
in  very  rare  instances,  varieties  worthy  of  cultivation  do 
not  reproduce  themselves  from  seed.  The  important  dif- 
ferences that  exist  between  the  seeds  of  diiferent  classes 
of  fruit  trees  render  it  necessary  to  treat  of  each  sepa- 
rately ;  their  management  will  therefore  be  given  in  detail, 
in  connection  with  the  propagation  of  stocks. 

There  are  some  points,  however,  of  general  application, 
that  may  be  considered  here  with  propriety.  It  scarcely 
admits  of  a  doubt,  but  that  many  of  the  difficulties  met 
with  in  fruit  tree  culture,  as  maladies  of  various  sorts, 
unfruitfulness,  etc.,  are  induced  by  a  careless  and  indis- 
criminating  system  of  propagation. 

The  stock  has  a  most  important  influence  on  the  health, 
longevity,  fruitfulness,  ami  symmetry  of  the  tree,  and 
should  therefore  be  propagated  :md  selected  with  due  re- 
gard to  its  soundness,  vigor,  and  hardiness  of  constitution. 

If  it  were  possible,  seeds,  to  grow  stocks  from,  Avhether 
of  the  apple,  pear,  peach,  plum,  or  any  other,  should  be 
taken  only  from  healthy,  vigorous  trees,  and  from  perfect. 


PfiOPAGATION    BY    SEEDS.  81' 

well-matured  fruits.  This  is  more  especially  important  in 
the  case  of  the  peach,  which,  in  some  sections,  is  aifected 
with  a  fatal  malady,  known  as  the  "  yellows." 

In  the  case  of  the  plum,  too,  care  should  be  taken  not 
to  grow  stocks  from  the  seeds  of  trees  affected  with  that 
well-known  fungus  disease,  called  "  black-knot." 

I  have  strong  reasons  for  believing  that  stocks  grown 
from  trees  affected  with  tliis  disease  will  soon  fall  a  prey 
to  it.  Indeed,  I  have  seen  it  make  its  appearance  among 
seedlings  during  their  first  season's  growth  in  the  seed- 
bed. 

As  this  disease  is  now  so  prevalent,  I  would  recommend 
the  total  rejection  of  American  seedlings  unless  grown 
from  seed  positively  known  to  be  the  product  of  sound 
trees.  It  is  safer  to  import  stocks  from  Eui-ope,  wliere 
the  plum-tree  is  exempt  from  the  black-knot. 

In  regard  to  other  stocks,  as  the  apple,  pear,  cherry, 
etc.,  usually  grown  from  seed  saved  promiscuously,  tlie 
greatest  care  should  be  taken  to  select  and  plant  out,  for 
budding  or  grafting  upon,  only  such  as  show  unmistaka- 
ble signs  of  health  and  vigor;  all  others  should  be  dis- 
carded. The  strongest  stocks  come  from  the  sound  and 
healthy  seel,  and  it  is  a  pretty  safe  rule  to  discard  the 
small  ones. 

A  discriminating  spirit  is  already  becoming  apparent 
among  the  best  classes  of  cultivators,  and  their  example 
will  soon  be  felt.  The  selectic  n  of  seeds  for  stocks  is  a 
point  of  more  than  ordinary  importance,  and  merits  the 
special  attention  of  every  man  engaged,  to  Avhatever  ex- 
tent, in  tlie  propagation  of  fruit  trees. 

Production  of  New  Varieties. — New  varieties  are  pro- 
duced from  seeds  that  have  been  properly  hybridized,  as 
described  in  the  article  on  hybridization,  or  from  seeds  of 
the  best  specimens  of  the  best  varieties. 

Where  it  is  desired  to  obtain  seedlings  of  a  particular 
variety,  free  from  any  crossing  with  others,  the  flowers 
4* 


82  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

should  be  protected  while  in  blossom,  to  guard  them 
against  foreign  impregnation  ;  seeds  should  be  saved  only 
from  large,  perfect,  fine  flavored  specimens,  and  the  seeds 
themselves  should  be  plump  and  mature.  Sometimes  a 
good  variety  is  obtained  by  selecting  from  beds  of  seed- 
lings, such  as  possess  marked  evidences  of  improvemei' t ; 
v'gorous^  luxuriant  growth,  large,  heavy  foliage,  prom'- 
nent  buds,  and  smooth,  thoruless  wood.  These  characteis 
indicate  superiority,  but  do  not  always  ensure  superior 
fruit.  The  stock  is  supposed  to  exert  considerable  influ- 
ence on  the  seed  ;  and  if  this  be  the  case,  it  would  be  well 
to  get  such  varieties  as  wc  wish  seeds  from,  on  their  own 
roots,  by  layering,  or  grafting  on  roots  in  the  ground,  so 
that  the  graft  will,  itself,  strike  root.  Mr.  Knight's  mode, 
of  obt:iining  seedlings  of  the  best  varieties,  was  to  prepare 
stocks  from  some  good  sort  that  would  strike  from  cuttings. . 
The^e  stocks  he  planted  in  rich,  warm  soil,  and  grafted 
with  the  kind  he  Avanted  the  seeds  from.  The  first  season 
after  grafting  he  took  them  up,  reduced  the  roots,  and 
planted  again.  In  this  way  he  liad  tliem  bear  fruit  in  two 
years.  He  allowed  only  a  couple  of  specimens  to  remain 
on  each  tree,  and  these,  consequently,  were  very  large, 
mature,  and  every  way  fine,  and  from '  these  the  seeds 
were  taken.  Seedlings  may  be  tested  quickly,  by  bud- 
ding or  grafting  them  on  bearing  trees.  We  may  fruit 
apples  and  pears  in  this  way  in  four  or  five  yeai"s,  whilst 
ten  or  fifteen  would  be  necessary  on  their  own  roots. 

2.  _5y  Divisioji  of  the  Plants. — It  has  been  remarked, 
in  the  article  on  buds,  that  every  bud  is  capable,  under 
favorable  circumstances,  of  producing  a  new  individual, 
similar  to  that  from  which  it  is  taken. 

Plence  it  is,  that  out  of  the  young  annual  Avood  of  an 
apple,  pear,  peach,  or  any  other  fruit  tree,  we  frequently 
make  several  hundreds.  Every  good,  well-formed  bud, 
properly  separated,  and  inserted  under  the  bark  of  the  in- 
dividuals of  the  same,  or  a  closely  allied  species,  will,  in 


PROPAGATlOjy    15Y    CUTTINGS.  b6 

one  year  from  its  insertion,  or  with  one  season's  growth, 
li;ive  become  a  new  tree.  It  is  by  these  means  we  are 
enabled  to  disseminate  new  varieties  witli  such  wonderful 
rapidity.  If  a  young  tree,  of  a  new  variety,  will  make  half 
a  dozen  shoots  the  first  season,  each  bearing  half  a  dozen 
buds,  we  oan,  if  we  have  stocks  to  bud  on,  be  in  possession 
of  thirty  trees  of  that  variety  in  two  years  from  the  time 
we  obtained  one  tree,  and  in  another  year  we  may  have 
ibur  times  that  number.  The  production  of  a  tree  from 
a  bud,  a  graft,  a  layer,  or  a  cutting,  is  but  the  same  thing, 
effected  by  different  means.  In  all  the  cases,  a  part  of  the 
parent  plant,  with  one  or  more  buds  attached,  is  separated 
from  it.  The  cutting,  sometimes  composed  of  one  buil,  or 
joint,  and  sometimes  of  several,  wc  put  directly  in  the 
ground,  where  it  forms  roots.  The  graft  is  a  cutting  in- 
serted, not  iii  the  ground,  but  in  the  wood  of  another 
plant,  to  which  it  unites.  The  bud  inserted  under  the  bark 
of  another  tree,  and  the  one  buried  in  the  ground,  differ 
only  in  this,  that  one  draws  its  support  directly  from  the 
soil,  and  the  other  iudirectly,  through  the  tree  to  which 
it  unites. 

Section'  1. — Propagation  by  Cuttings. 

A  cutting  is  a  shoot,  or  part  of  a  shoot,  generally  of  one 
season's  growth.  The  length  of  the  cutting  varies  from 
a  shigle  eye,  or  joint,  to  a  foot,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  species,  or  the  circumstances  under  which  it  is  to 
be  grown.  The  wood  should  be  as  stout  and  mature  as 
possible,  and  should  be  cut  close  and  smooth  to  a  bud  at 
both  ends  (fig.  .58).  In  all  cases,  cuttings  taken  off  close 
to  the  old  wood,  with  the  base  attached,  as  in  fig,  59,  are 
more  successful  than  when  cut  at  several  joints  above ; 
and  in  many  cases,  as  in  the  quince,  for  example,  an  inch 
or  two  of  the  old  wood  left  attached  to  the  base  of  the 
cutting,  as  ia  fig.  GO,  render  it  still  more  certain  of  sue- 


84 


GENEKAL    PKINCIPLES. 


cess.  The  more  buds  we  can  get  around  the  base  of  a 
cutting,  the  better,  other  things  being  equal ;  for  these 
buds,  as  soon  as  they  become  active,  send  down  new 
matter,  from  which  tlie  roots  are  emitted. 

Cuttings  of  the  grape  are  sometimes  made  of  a  single 
eye  (fig.  61),  with  an  inch  or  so  of  wood  above  and  below  it. 

The  time  to  make  cuttings  is  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  the 


FilJS.  58  to  fi3.— CUTTINGS. 

58,  a  cnttin::,  all  of  young  wooti ;  50,  a  cutting,  with  a  heel  of  old  wood  ;  60,  a 

cutting,  with  2  or  3  eyes  of  old  wood  ;  01,  a  cutting  of  a  single  eye  of  the  grape 

vine ;  62,  a  long  cutting  of  the  grape  ;  line  ^4,  B,  surface  of  the  ground. 

wood  is  ripe,  and  through  the  early  winter  months.  It 
should  not  bo  deferred  later  than  January.  The  soil  for 
cuttings  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  their  success,  for 
if,  on  the  one  hand,  it  be  cold,  damp,  and  compact,  they 
will  decay,  and  if  too  loose  and  s:mdy,  tliey  will  dry  up 
for  the  want  of  sufficient  moisture.  A  soil  so  mellow  that 
it  cannot  bake,  and  yet  so  compact  as  to  retain  humidity 
enough  to  support  the  cuttings  until  new  roots  are  formed, 
seems  to  be  absolutely  necessary — such  a  soil  as  we  may 


PROPAGATION   BY   CUTTINGS.  85 

suppose  a  good  garden  border  to  be  composed  of.  Rooted 
plants  can  endure  extremes,  but  cuttings  require  the  most 
fevorable  circumstances. 

Time  to  plant. — The  fall  would  be  the  better  season 
to  plant  all  cuttings,  if  we  could  cover  them  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  frost  from  heaving  them  out.  It  is  on  account 
of  this  (liificulty  that  Ave  plant,  from  necessity,  in  the 
spring  ;  but  spring  planting  must  be  done  very  early,  that 
vegetation  may  proceed  gradually.  If  late  planted,  warm 
weather  comes  on  them  at  once,  before  they  have  formed 
roots  sufficient  to  support  the  demands  of  the  young 
leaves.  Where  only  a  few  are  grown,  shading  might,  at 
certain  times,  be  given,  and  some  light  substance,  like 
sawdust,  be  spre;id  about  them,  to  preserve  an  even  tern- 
perature  and  liumidity,  or  they  might  be  put  in  a  cold- 
frame,  where  they  could  receive  any  required  attention. 
Where  acres  of  cuttings  are  grown,  these  tilings  are  not 
practicable. 

Depth  to  plant. — As  a  genei-al  thing,  cuttings  should  bo 
inserted  so  deep,  that  only  two  buds  will  be  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  in  the  vine  only  one.  If  cut- 
tings are  long,  they  need  not  be  set  perpendicularly,  but 
sloping,  so  as  to  be  within  reach  of  heat  and  air.  A 
cutting  of  a  single  eye  of  the  vine,  with  a  piece  of  wood 
attached,  must  be  entirely  covered — say  half  an  inch 
deep ;  see  figures  58  to  62,  ground  line.  A.,  B.  But  such 
cuttings  are  seldom  planted,  except  in  pots,  in  houses,  or 
in  hot-beds. 

Preserving  Cuttings. — If  cuttings  are  not  planted  in 
the  autumn,  they  should  at  least  be  prepared  quite  early 
in  the  winter,  and  be  buried  in  the  earth,  out  of  doors,  in 
a  pit.  A  mound  of  earth  sliould  be  drawn  up  over  the 
pit  to  throw  oft'  water.  At  the  very  first  f  ivorable  mo- 
ment in  the  spring,  they  shouhl  be  planted.  Trenches 
are  opened  as  deep  as  necessary  with  a  spade,  and  the 
cuttmgs  set  in  it  at  the  proper  distances,  from  three  inches 


86  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

to  a  foot,  according  to  circumstances.  When  the  cuttings 
are  in  the  trench,  the  earth  is  partly  filled  in,  and  trod 
firmly  down  with  the  foot,  then  the  balance  is  filled  in  and 
leveled  up. 

Cuttings  require  particular  attention  in  the  way  of 
weeding  and  hoeing ;  if  weeds  grow  up  thickly,  and  ap- 
propriate the  moisture  of  the  ground,  or  if  the  surface  be 
allowed  to  crack,  as  it  may,  after  rains,  if  not  quite  sandy, 
they  will  either  make  a  feeble  growth  or  fail  entirely. 
The  ground  wants  repeated  stirring  to  keep  it  friable  and 
perfectly  free  from  weeds. 

Section  2, — Propagation  by  Layering. 


A  layer  is  similar  to  a  cutting,  except  that  it  is  allowed 
to  remain  in  partial  connection  with  the  parent  plant 
until  it  has  emitted  roots.  On  this  account,  layers  are 
much  more  certain  than  cuttings.  It  is  the  surest  and 
most  simple  method  of  propagating  the  Grape  and  the 
Gooseberry^  and  also  the  Quince^  Paradise,  and  Doucin, 
for  stocks.  It  may  be  performed  in  the  spring  with  shoots 
of  the  previous  year's  growth,  before  vegetation  has  com- 
menced, or  in  July  and  August,  on  wood  of  the  same 
season's  growth.  The  ordinary  mode  of  doing  it  is,  first, 
to  spade  over  and  prepare  the  ground  in  which  the  branch 
is  to  be  laid,  in  order  to  make  it  light  and  friable.  The 
branch  is  then  brought  down  to  the  ground  (fig.  63)  ;  an 
incision  is  made  at  the  base  of  bud,  A^  through  the  bark 
and  pai-tly  through  the  wood  ;  the  knife  is  drawn  upward, 
splitting  the  shoot  an  inch  or  two  in  length,  and  the 
branch  is  laid  in  the  earth  with  the  cut  open,  and  kept 
down  by  means  of  a  crooked  or  hooked  wooden  peg,  B. 
The  earth  is  then  drawn  in  smoothly  around,  covering  it 
two  or  three  inches  deep ;  and  the  end  of  the  shoot  that 
is  above  ground  is  tied  up  to  a  stick,  C,  if  it  requires 


PEOPAGATIOX    BY   LAYERING. 


87 


incision ;     B, 
C,  stake, 


:OM>ION    LAYER. 

;    B,  hooked   peg; 


sopport.  In  the  Grape,  Gooseberri/,  or  Currant,  a  simple 
notch  below  a  bud  is  sufficient,  and  they  will  root  if  sim- 
ply pegged  down  ;  but  roots 
are  formed  more  rapidly 
when  the  shoot  is  cut  one' 
third  through,  and  slit  as 
described. 

A  long  shoot  of  the  vine 
may  be  layered  at  several 
points,  and  thus  produce 
several  rooted  |)lants  in  the 
course  of  one  season.  This 
is  called  serpentine  layering 
(fig.  64).  The  Quince,  Para- 
dise,  and  Doucin  stocks, 
where  raised  in  large  quan- 
tities, are  propagated  in  a 
different  way  from  that  de- 
scribed. The  process  requires  much  less  labor;  and 
where  plants  root  so  freely  as  they  do,  it  answers  every 
purpose. 

We  will  take  a  plant  of  the  quince,  for  example,  and, 
in  the  spring,  before  growth  commences,  we  cut  it  down 
nearly  to  the  ground,  leaving  four  or  five  buds  at  its  base 
(^,  fig.  05).  Dur- 
ing that  season,  a 
number  of  vig- 
orous shoots  will 
be  made.  The 
following  au- 
tumn or  spring 
the  earth  is 
drawn  up  around 
the  base  of  the 
plant,  so  that  the  crown,  where  it  was  cut,  will  be  covered, 
and,  consequently,  the  base  of  all  the  shoots  for  several 


,...^ 


-EUPENTINIC    LATER. 


GENERAL   PRTTSlCiPLES. 


inches  in  height.  During  the  next  summer's  growth,  every 

branch  is  sufficiently  rooted  to  be  separated  and  placed  in 

nursery  rows  the  following 

spring.     This  is  the  way  to 

obtain  strong  stocks  ;  for  the 

cutting  back  of  the  mother 

plnnt  produces  very  vigorous 

shoots  the  first  season,  and 

/%>  A    when       another       season's 

>„  growth  is  added,  they  are  as 

strong   as   can    be   desired. 

We      succeed     in     rooting 

these  shoots  the  first  season 

of  their  growth    by  earth- 
Fig.  es.-MorNi.Lw  eking  or     .         ^^^^  ^^^^^    j^^jj_ 

BANKING-UP.  =>  ^ 

A  the  point  at  Which  the  mother  plant  s«™mer;   but   they  are  not 
was  cut  back.  quite  Strong  enough,  or  suf- 

ficiently rooted,  for   transplanting   and  budding  the  fol- 
lowing season. 


Section  3. — ^Pbopagation  by  Suckers. 


Suckers  are  shoots  sent  up  from  the  roots.  We  observe 
them  most  frequently  around  trees  that  have  had  their 
roots  wounded  by  the  spa<le  or  plow.  The  wounds  induce 
the  formation  of  buds,  and  these  buds  send  up  shoots. 
They  are  occasionally  iised  from  necessity  for  stocks,  but 
should  not  be  employed  where  seedlings  can  be  obtained. 
Occasionally,  we  find  certain  varieties  of  plum  throw  up 
fine  vigorous  suckers,  that  would  make  excellent  slocks  if 
taken  ofi"  with  good  roots  ;  but  their  tendency  to  produce 
suckers  renders  them  exceedingly  annoying  in  gardens, 
and,  on  this  account,  objectionable.  The  roots  of  the 
raspberry  are  full  of  buds,  and,  consequently,  throw 
up  great  quantities  of  snckers,  and  the  smallest  cuttings 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING.  89 

of  the  roots  will  grow.  Suckers,  of  any  plants,  that  can 
easily  be  propagated  by  cuttings  or  layers,  should  never 
be  used. 

Section  4. — Propagation  by  Budding. 

This  operation  is  performed  during  the  growing  season, 
and  usually  on  young  trees  from  one  to  five  years  old, 
with  a  smooth,  soft  bark.  It  consists  in  separating  a  bud, 
with  a  portion  of  bai'k  attaclied,  from  a  shoot  of  the  cur- 
rent season's  growth  of  one  tree,  and  inseiting  it  under 
the  bark  of  another.  When  this  bud  begins  to  grow,  all 
that  part  of  the  stock  above  it  is  cut  away,  the  bud  grows 
on,  and  eventually  forms  a  tree  of  the  same  variety  aa 
that  from  which  it  was  taken.  Buds  may  be  inserted  in 
June,  and  make  considerable  growth  the  same  season,  aa 
they  do  in  the  South,  but,  as  a  general  tiling,  this  is  not 
desirable  in  the  propagation  of  fruit  trees.  The  ordinary 
season  in  the  Northern  States  is  from  the  middle  of  July 
until  the  middle  of  September,  and  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness at  which  a  species  is  budded  depends,  other  things 
being  equal,  on  the  condition  of  its  growth. 

Those  accomplishing  their  growth  early  in  the  season 
are  budded  early,  and  those  that  grow  untii  the  autumn 
are  budded  late.  Thus  the  season  extends  over  a  period 
exceeding  two  months.  In  all  cases,  the  following  condi- 
tions are  necessary : 

1st.  The  buds  must  be  perfectly  developed  in  the  axils 
of  the  leaves  on  the  young  shoots  intended  to  bud  from. 
This  is  seldom  the  case  until  the  shoot  has  temporarily 
ceased  to  lengthen,  as  indicated  by  the  perfect  formation 
of  its  terminal  bud. 

If  buds  are  wanted  before  this  condition  naturally  ar- 
rives, their  maturity  may  be  hastened  very  much  by 
pinching  the  tips  of  the  shoots.  In  ten  or  twelve  days 
after  the  pinching  of  a  very  soft  shoot,  its  buds  are  fit  for 
W^orking. 


90  GEKERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

2d.  The  hark  must  j-aise  freely  from  the  stocks  to  he  bud- 
ded. This  only  happens  when  tlie  stocks  are  iu  a  thrifty 
and  growing  stiite.  Trees  that  accomplisli  most  of  their 
growth  early  in  tlic  season,  must  be  watched  and  budded 
before  they  cease  to  grow  ;  those  that  groAV  very  late  must 
not  be  budded  early,  or  the  formation  of  new  wood  will 
surround  and  cover  the  buds  ;  in  gardener's  language, 
they  will  be  "  drowned  by  the  sap." 

The  implements  needed  arc  a  pruning-knife^  to  dress 
the  stocks  by  removing  any  branches  tliat  may  be  in  the 
way  of  inserting  the  bud ;  and  a  hudding  Jcnife,  to  take 
off  the  buds  and  make  the  incisions  in  the  stock.  The 
latter  should  have  a  very  thin,  smooth,  and  keen  edge. 

Strings  for  tying  in  the  buds  are  either  taken  from  bass 
mats,  or  they  are  f)repared  from  the  bark  of  the  bass  wood. 
We  always  j)repare  our  own;  we  send  to  the  woods  and 
strip  the  bark  off  the  trees  in  June;  we  then  put  it  in 
water  from  two  to  three  weeks,  according  to  the  ago  of 
the  bark,  until  the  fibrous,  paper-like  inner  bark  can  be 
easily  sejiarated  from  the  outer,  when  it  is  torn  into  strips, 
dried,  and  put  away  for  use. 

Guttiiig  and  Preparing  the  JBuds. — Young  shoots,  in 
the  condition  described,  are  cut  below  the  lowest  plump 
bud  ;  an  inch  or  two  of  the  base  of  every  shoot,  where 
the  buds  are  very  close  together,  and  quite  small,  sliould 
be  left.  The  leaves  are  then  stripped  off,  leaving  half  of 
each  leaf-stalk  to  handle  the  bud  by,  as  in  fig.  63. 

Preserving  the  Buds. — Wlien  a  considerable  quantity  is 
cut  at  once,  they  should  be  stripped  of  the  leaves  and 
wrapped  in  a  damp  cloth  as  soon  as  cut;  and  they  may  be 
preserved  in  good  order  for  ten  days,  by  keeping  them 
in  a  cool  cellar  among  damp  sawdust,  or  closely  en- 
veloped in  damp  cloths,  matting,  or  moss.  We  often 
send  buds  a  week's  journey,  packed  in  moss  slightly 
moistened  ;  the  leaves  being  off,  the  evaporation  is  trifling, 


PROPAGATIOlsr    BY    BUDDING. 


91 


none,  in  fact,  when  packed  up,  consequently  very  little 
moisture  is  needed. 

Having  the  stocks,  buds,  and  im{)lements  in  the  condi- 
tion described,  the  operation  is  performed  in  this  way : 

The  shoot  to  bud  from  is  taken  in  one  hand,  and  the 
budding-knife  in  the  other;  the  lower  part  of  the  edge  of 

the  knife  is  |)laced  on 
the  shoot,  half  an  inch 
above  the  bud  to  be 
removed  (^1,  fig.  66)  ; 
the  thumb  of  the  knife- 
hand  rests  on  the  shoot 
below  the  bud  J?/  a 
drawing  cut  is  then 
made  parallel  with  the 
slioot,  removing  the 
bud  and  the  bark,  to 
whicli  it  is  attached, 
half  an  inch  above  and 
three-quarters  below 
it.     This  is  the  usual 

Fig.  66,  a  Bhoot  of  buds  with  the    leivcs  i       „,i      i      ,    •, 

take;  off/showmg  the  position  of  the  knife  in  ^^ngth,   but   it   may,  m 

removing  a  bud.    Fig.  67,  A  bud  badly  taken  many  CaseS,  be  sliortcr. 

off,  with  a  hollow  in  the  center.      Fig.  C8,  A  rpi  „   ^„.     •      .^„j^     i„„4. 

eo^d  bud  ;  A,  root  of  bud ;  B,  root  of  feaf.  ^he   CUt    IS    made    JUSt 

deep  enough  to  be  be- 
low the  bark.  A  small  portion  of  the  wood  is  always 
taken  off  with  it,  and  if  this  adheres  firmly,  it  should 
be  allowed  to  remain  ;  if  it  parts  freely,  it  shoidd  be 
taken  out,  but  in  doing  so,  the  root  of  the  bud  must 
be  carefully  preserved,  for  if  it  comes  out  with  the 
wood,  the  bud  is  useless.  The  root  of  the  bud,  as  it 
is  termed,  is  a  small  portion  of  wood  in  the  hollow 
part  of  the  inside  of  the  bud.  Fig.  67  is  a  good  bud  ; 
-4,  root  of  bud,  _S,  root  of  leaf.  Fig.  68  is  imperfect, 
the  roots  of  leaf  and  bud  both  out.  A  smooth  place 
on  the  stock,  clear  of  branches,  is  then  chosen,  where  tvo 


to   68. — BUDDING. 


92 


GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 


incisions  are  made  to  the  depth  of  the  bark,  one  across 
the  end  of  the  other,  so  as  to  form  a  "J",  (fig.  09) ;  the  bark 
on  the  two  edges  of  the  perpendicular  cut  is  raised  (fig, 
70)  with  tlie  smooth  ivory  handle  of  the  budding-knife, 
and  the  bud  is  inserted  between  them  (fig.  71) ;  the  upper 
end  of  the  bark  attached  to  the  bud  is  cut  square,  to  fit 
to  the  horizontal  cut  on  the  stock ;  the  bass  string  is  then 
wound  around  tightly,  commencing  at  the  bottom,  and 
covering  every  part  of  tlie  incision,  leaving  the  bud  itself 
and  the  leaf-stalk  uncovered  (fig.  72)  ;  the  string  is  fasten- 
ed above  the  horizontal  cut,  and  the  work  is  done.     Tht 


-INSERTION    OF    THK   BUD. 


'^f',     i  ill,        «™ 

70. 

Figs.  69  to  72 

Fig.  69,  A,  stoclt  witli  tlie  bark  slit  vertically  and  across.  Fig.  70,  tlie  same, 
■with  the  baric  raised.  Fig.  71,  the  same,  with  the  bud  inserted.  Pig.  72,  the 
same,  tied  up. 

success  of  the  operation,  as  far  as  its  execution  is  con- 
cerned, dejwnds,  in  a  great  measure,  on  smooth  cuts,  an 
exact  Jit  of  the  bud  to  the  incision  made  for  it,  secure, 
close  tyhig,  that  will  completely  exclude  air  and  rain- 
water, and  the  quick  performance  of  the  whole.  The  in- 
sertion of  a  bud  should  not,  in  any  case,  occupy  more  than 
a  minute  y    ordinary  practiced  budders  will  set  two  in 


PROPAGATION    UY    GRAFTING.  VO 

t)iat  time,  and  often  two  hundred  in  an  hour,  with  a  per- 
son to  tie.  Where  the  stocks  nnd  buds  work  well,  two 
thousiind  is  not  an  uncommon  day's  work  in  our  nurseries, 
especially  of  cherries,  peaches,  and  apples.  Budding  is 
usually  much  more  successful  when  performed  in  moder- 
ately dry  weather  than  in  wet — the  sap  being  in  a  condi- 
tion more  favorable  for  the  formation  of  a  union  between 
the  stock  and  bud. 

The  chief  difficulty,  experienced  by  beginners  in  bud- 
ding, is  the  proper  removal  of  the  bud.  When  it  hap- 
pens that  the  knife  passes  exactly  between  the  bark  and 
wood,  the  bud  cannot  fail  to  be  good  ;  but  this  rarely 
happens — more  or  less  wood  is  attached,  and  the  removal 
of  this  is  the  nice  point.  Where  the  buds  are  flat,  the 
difficulty  is  less  than  when  they  have  largo,  prominent 
shoulders,  as  the  plum  and  pear  have,  in  many  cases. 
When  all  the  wood  is  taken  out  of  these,  a  cavity  re- 
mains, which  does  not  come  in  contact  with  the  wood  on 
which  the  bud  is  jjlaced,  and  therefore,  although  the  bark 
imites  well,  the  bud  will  not  grow.  A  little  practice  will 
enable  the  budder  to  overcome  this  and  all  other  me- 
chanical difficulties. 

Section  5. — Propagation  by  Grafting. 

Grafting  is  the  insertion  of  a  cit)n  of  one  species  or 
variety  on  the  stem  or  branch  of  another,  which  is  called 
the  stock.  Its  principal  object  is  the  same  as  budding, 
to  increase  certain  varieties  that  cannot  be  reproduced 
from  seed  with  certainty  ;  but  it  is  frequently  performed 
with  other  objects  in  view.     For  instance : 

7o  Fruit  a  New  'Variety. — A  cion  inserted  in  a  branch 
of  a  bearing  tree,  will  bear  fruit  ])erhaps  the  second  year 
from  the  graft ;  but  if  the  same  cion  had  been  put  on  a 
young  seedling,  it  would  not  liave  borne  in  ten  years. 

One  species  is  frequently  grafted   with    success  upon 


94  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

another,  by  which  certain  important  modifications  are 
wrought  upon  both  the  size  and  fruitfuhiess  of  trees,  and 
the  quality  of  the  fruits.  Thus,  we  can  graft,  in  many 
cases,  with  highly  beneficial  results,  the  peach  and  apri- 
cot on  the  plum,  the  pear  on  the  quince,  strong-grow- 
ing species  and  varieties  on  weaker  ones,  and  vice  versa. 
But  experience  has  establislied  the  fact,  that  there  must 
be,  between  the  stock  and  graft,  a  close  alliance.  We  cannot 
graft  an  apple  on  2^  peach.,  nor  a  cherry  on  a  joear  /  but  the 
pear,  the  apple,  quince,  medlar,  thorn,  and  mountain-ash 
— a  naturally  allied  group — may,  with  more  or  less  suc- 
cess, be  worked  upon  one  another. 

The  French  horticulturists,  who  are  the  most  skillful 
and  curious  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  propagation 
of  plants,  describe  in  their  works  upwards  of  one  liun- 
dred  difierent  modes  of  grafting,  practiced  in  differ«int 
ages  and  countries,  and  for  the  attainment  of  particular 
objects;  but,  however  interesting  the  study  of  all  these 
may  be  to  the  student  and  experimentalist,  the  great  bulk 
of  them  are  of  little  practical  utility,  and  are  never  applied 
in  the  multiplication  of  fruit  trees.  It  is,  therefore,  un- 
necessary to  fill  up  the  pages  of  such  a  treatise  as  this, 
with  either  a  historical  account,  or  description  of  them. 
The  methods  described  below  are  those  universally  adopt- 
ed, with  slight  modifications,  by  the  best  practical  propa- 
gators everywhere  at  the  present  day. 

Stocks  are  of  all  ages,  from  a  yearling  seedling  to  a 
tree  forty  or  fifty  years  old  ;  but  of  whatever  age,  they 
should  be  sound  and  healthy.  Nursery  stocks  will  be 
more  ])articularly  spoken  of  in  the  proper  place. 

Gions  are  generally  shoots  of  the  previous  year's 
growth.  Those  bearing  fruit-buds  are  only  used  for 
the  purpose  of  experiment,  and  in  that  rarely.  They 
should  be  cut  in  the  autumn  after  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  or 
in  the  winter,  and  be  preserved  carefully  in  earth  until 
wanted  for  use.     If  intended  for  root-grafting  early  in  the 


PROPAGATION    BY    GRAFTING.  95 

spring  in  the  house,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  bury  their 
lower  ends  in  earth,  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar ;  but  if  wanted 
for  out-door  grafting,  they  should  be  buried  in  dry  sand 
soil,  in  a  j)it,  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall  or  fence,  and 
deeply  covered  with  earth  drawn  up  in  a  mound  to  throw 
off  the  water.  They  are  thus  kept  perfectl}-  dormant  un- 
til used,  and  not  so  dry  as  to  shrivel  the  bark.  They 
should  always  be  taken  from  healthy,  vigorous  trees  ex- 
clusively, and  be  of  firm,  well-ripened  wood  from  the  up- 
per l)ranches  of  the  tree.  A  moderate-sized  shoot  or  cion, 
if  well  matured  and  sound,  is  much  better  than  one  as 
thick  as  a  man's  finger,  pithy  and  unripe.  The  implements 
used  in  grafting  are  tlie  (jrafting-ki^ife,  saw,  and  chisel, 
(see  implements).  In  whip-grafting  or  splice-grafting, 
the  stocks  being  small  require  the  knife  only,  or  not  mora 
than  the  knife  and  chisel.  It  is  always  better  to  have  two 
knives — one  to  prune  and  do  the  rougli  Avork,  and  the 
other  to  prepare  the  cion.  Grafting  composition  is  pre- 
])ared  in  various  Avays.  Rosin,  beeswax,  and  tallow,  in 
about  equal  parts,  answer  very  well.  Lately,  however, 
Ave  have  found  it  better  to  use  more  rosin  and  less  bees- 
Avax  and  tallow  ;  thus,  to  tA\'o  pounds  of  rosin  ^ye.  add  one 
and  one-fourtli  pounds  of  beeswax,  and  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  tallow.  For  Avhip-grnfting  on  the  root,  and 
small  trees  in  the  nursery,  we  use  thin  calico  cloth,  satu- 
rated Avith  this  composition,  instead  of  the  composition  it- 
self, and  find  it  more  convenient  and  expeditious.  For 
root  grafts,  instead  of  cloth,  we  now  use  paper,  which  we 
find  answers  tlie  2)urpose  perfectly.  This  paper  is  a  cheap 
broAvn  article  knoAvn  here  as  "  grafting  paper  "  and  is  used 
by  nearly  all  nurserymen  for  this  purpose.  The  liquid 
Avax  is  spread  on  the  paper  Avith  a  brush,  after  which  it  is 
cut  into  strips  an  inch  or  so  wide,  ready  for  use.  (Instead 
of  tallow  Ave  now  use  raw  linseed  oil,  a  pint  of  which  is  equal 
to  a  pound  of  tallow.)  We  tear  the  calico  into  narrow 
strips,  roll  it  into  balls,  and  then  soak  it  in  the  liquid  com* 


GENERAL    PKINCIPLES. 


position  until  every  jtoro  of  the  cloth  is  filled  with  it.  The 
person  who  ap})lies  it  to  the  grafts  takes  it  from  these 
balls,  tears  it  in  jneces  tlie  length  and  breadth  required 
by  the  size  of  the  stock,  and  two  or  three  tui-ns  of  it 
around  the  graft  secure  it  completely.  This  thin  cloth 
soon  decays,  and  yields  to  the  enlargement  of  the  part  it 
incloses.  We  have  tried  tow,  paper,  and  other  materials, 
but  find  this  the  best.  Having  the  cions,  implements, 
and  composition  in  readiness,  the  work  is  performed  as 
follows : 

Whip- Grafting  on  the  Root. — For  this  purpose,  seed- 
ling stocks  are  generally  used,  one  or  two 
years  old,  varying  from  one-fourth  to  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter.     The  graft  is 
always  made  at  the  collar,  and,  therefore,  the 
stems   of    the   plants    are   cut    off    at   that 
point ;  the  small  tap-roots  and  any  cunibrous 
fibres     are     removed, 
leaving     them     about 
four  inches   in  length 
(fig.  73) ;  they  are  then 
washed  clean,  and  are 
ready    for    the    opera- 
tion.   The  grafter  then 
makes  a  smooth,  even, 
sloping    cut,    an    inch 
long,  upwards,  on  the 
collar  of  the  root,  A  ; 
and   in   the    center  of 
this    cut   he   makes   a 
slit     or      tongue,    J?,  73. 

downwards.  The  cion,  ^'S"^-  ^^  ^'^ 

1  •  I-  1,  ij  I,  ii  „  Fi?-  73,  tlie  root:  ^,  the  sloping  cut;  5,  the 
which  should  be  three  ^^^^  pi,.  ,4,  th;  cim, :  ^,  tL  .loping  cut ; 
or     four      inches      long    ii,  the  tongue.     Fig.  75,  the  union  of  ciou  and 

(fig.  74),  is  cut  on  the  *'°'^i^- 

lower  end   with  a  sloping  cut    downwards,   and  similar 


-KOOT    GUAFTINO. 


PROPAGATION   BT    GRAFTING.  97 

in  all  respects  to  that  made  on  tlie  stock ;  a  slit,  or 
tongue,  is  made  in  it  upwards,  B,  corresponding,  also, 
with  that  on  the  stock ;  and  they  are  then  neatly  fitted 
together,  the  tongue  of  the  one  within  the  other  (fig. 
75),  and  the  inner  barks  of  both  placed  in  close  and 
perfect  contact,  at  least  on  one  side.  The  fit  should 
be  so  complete  as  to  sit  close  and  firm  in  all  parts. 
The  j)ersoii  who  ap})lies  the  wax  takes  a  narrow  strip 
of  the  cloth  or  paper  described,  and  wraps  it  firmly 
around,  covering  the  parts  united.  A  man  and  boy  can 
graft  of  these,  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  per  day,  and  by 
a  special  effort,  two  thousand.  When  the  grafting  is  thus 
performed,  the  grafted  plants  are  put  away  as  closely  as 
they  can  be  packed  in  small  boxes,  with  sandy  earth 
among  the  roots,  and  deposited  either  in  a  cold  cellar  or 
in  a  dry  place  out  of  doors,  Mhere  frost  cannot  penetrate 
to  the  roots,  iintil  planting  time  in  spring. 

Whip- Grafting  on  small  trees,  standing  in  the  open 
ground,  is  performed  in  precisely  the  same  manner,  the 
oblique  or  sloping  cut  and  tongue,  corresponding  in  stock 
and  graft,  fitting  into  each  other  with  precision,  and  the 
inner  bark  of  both,  at  least  on  one  side,  placed  in  close 
contact.  Stocks  an  inch  in  diameter  can  be  grafted  in  this 
way.  Either  the  cloth  or  the  liquid  composition  may  be 
applied,  the  latter  put  on  with  a  brush.  For  all  moderate 
sized  stocks  the  cloth  is  preferable.  In  cold  weather,  a 
small  furnace  can  be  kept  at  hand  to  keep  the  composi- 
tion in  working  order. 

Cleft  Grafting  is  practiced  on  trees  or  branches  too 
large  for  whip  grafting — say  from  an  inch  in  diameter  up- 
wards. In  this  case,  the  cion  is  cut  precisely  in  the  form 
of  a  wedge  (fig.  76).  The  part  cut  for  insertion  in  the 
stock  should  be  about  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long, 
with  a  bud  {A)  at  the  shoulder,  where  it  is  to  rest  on  the 
stock  ;  this  bud  hastens  the  union  of  the  parts  in  the  same 
way  as  a  bud  at  the  base  of  a  cutting,  set  in  the  earth, 
5 


98 


GENERAL    PKINCIPLE8. 


hastens  and  facilitates  the  emission  of  roots ;  the  outer 
edge  should  also  be  somewhat  thicker  than  the  inner.  A 
eloping  cut  {A,  fig.  77)  is  then  made  on  the  stock,  an  inch 
and  a  half  h)ng ;  another  cut  (i?)  is  made  across  this  cut, 
about  half  way  down,  as  at  point  J^;  the  stock  is  split  on 

one  side  of  the  ))ith 
by  laying  the  chisel 
on  the  horizontal 
surface,  and  strik- 
ing lightly  with  a 
mallet ;  the  split  is 
kept  open  with  the 
knife  or  chisel  tmtil 
the  cion  is  insert- 
ed, Avith  the  thick 
side  out  {A,  fig. 
78).  Grafts  of  this 
kind  heal  mtich 
more  rapidly  than 
when  cut  at  once 
horizontally.  Very 
large  branches  are 
sawed  horizontally 
off  at  the  point  to 
be  grafted  {A,  fig. 
79) ;  the  surface  is 
then  pared  smooth 
with    the    knife,    a 

Fig.  76,  cion,  witli  sloping  cut  on  east  Bide,  lilce  a  gplit    is    made  with 
wedge  ;  A,  bud  at  tlie  shoulder ;  S,  section  showing     .         i  •      1  1      ' 

shape  of  wedge.  Fig.  77.  the  stock  cut  and  split ;  .4,  the  ChlSCl,  nearly  Ul 
the  sloping  cut;  J?,  horizontal  cut.    Fig.  78,  the  cion  the  center,  nnd  tWO 

inserted  in  the  stoclc.  i        ti        :    „    ;„ 

wedge-like  cions  m- 

serted  {A,  J?,  fig.  80)  ;  if  both  grow,  and  they  are  after- 
wards too  close,  one  can  be  cut  away.  Another  mode  of 
grafting  such  large  stocks,  or  branches,  is  to  cut  them  off 
horizontally,  as  above,  and  pare  them  smooth  with  the 


76  to  78. 


77. 

-CLEFT   GRAFTING. 


PROrAGATlUN    UX    GRAFTING. 


99 


kuife ;  tlien  cut  tlic  cion  on  Ofie  side,  about  an  iucli  awl 
a  half  long,  making  a  shoulder  at  the  top;  then  raise  the 
l)ark  from  the  stock  with  the  handle  of  a  budding-knife, 
and  insert  the  cion  between  the  bark  and  wood;  ap- 
ply the  comjiosition  the  same  as  in  the  others,  all  over 
the  cut  part.  Two  or  three  cions  may  be  put  in  each. 
The  principal  objection  to  this  mode  is  that  the  grafts,  if 
they  grow  rapidly,  are  apt  to 
be  blown  oif  before  they  have 
united  strongly  to  the  stock. 

The  great  points  to  observe 
alioays,  are — to  have  shaip  in- 
struments, that  -will  make 
smooth,  clean  cuts;  to  have 
placed  in  perfect  contact  the 
inner  barks  of  cion  and  stock  ; 
to  have  the  whole  cut  surface 
and  every  poition  of  the  split 
perfectly  covered  with  the  com- 
position, and  to  exclude  air  and 
water.  The  cion  should  always 
be  cut  close  to  a  bud  at  the  point 
{A,  fig.  76),  and  have  a  bud  at 
the  shoulder,  or  point  of  union 
with  the  stock  {A,  fig.  78). 

In  grafting  the  heads  of  large 
trees,  it  is  not  convenient  to  use 
the  composition  in  a  melted 
state,  to  be  put  on  with  the 
brush,  and  the  large  cut  surfaces 
cannot  ,vcll  be  covered  will,  the  2f„7;?!r  fVI!'^^^ 
cloth  ;  it  is,  therefore,  better  to  with  two  cions  iuaertea. 
use  the  composition  in  such  a  state  that  i(  can  be  put  on 
with  the  hands.  A  very  small  quantity  of  brick-dust  may 
be  advantageously  mixed  with  it  whei.  intended  for  this 
purpose,  to  prevent  its  being  melted  by  the  sun. 


79  and  SO. — cxb*^ 

GKAFTING 


100  GENERAL    rRIXCIPLES. 

Double  Worhlug. — When  Ave  graft  or  bud  a  tree  already 
budded  or  grafted,  we  call  it  "  double-worked."  Certain 
very  important  advantages  are  gained  by  it.  Some  varie- 
ties are  of  such  feeble  growth,  that  it  is  impossible  to 
make  good  trees  of  them  in  the  ordinary  Avay  of  working 
on  common  stocks.  In  such  cases,  we  use  worked  trees 
of  strong  growing  sorts  as  stocks  for  them. 

Many  varieties  of  the  pear  do  not  unite  well  with  the 
quince  stock  ;  we  therefore  bud  other  varieties  of  strong 
growth,  that  do  succeed,  and  use  them  for  stocks  to  work 
the  others  on.  By  this  means  we  are  enabled  to  possess 
dwarf  trees  of  many  varieties,  that  we  could  not  other- 
wise have  in  that  form.  "NYe  have  fruited  the  Dix  in  two 
years  by  double  working  on  the  quince,  when  otherwise 
it  would  have  taken  not  less  than  seven.  Some  varieties 
of  fruit  trees  are  much  better  than  others,  though  of  equal 
vigor,  to  graft  upon.  In  the  pear,  for  example,  we  find 
the  White  Doyenne  makes  a  good  stock  for  almost  all 
other  varieties — superior,  in  this  respect,  to  any  other  we 
have  ever  experimented  with.  A  great  many  improve- 
ments may  be  effected,  not  only  in  the  form  and  growth 
of  trees,  but  in  the  quality  of  the  fruit,  by  double  work- 
ing. Very  few  experiments  have  yet  been  made  on  the 
subject  in  this  country,  except  from  necessity ;  but  the 
general  interest  now  felt  on  all  matters  pertaining  to  fruit- 
tree  culture  cannot  fxil  to  direct  attention  to  this  and 
similar  matters  that  have  heretofore,  in  a  great  measure, 
been  overlooked. 


CHAPTER    V. 

PRUNING— ITS    PRINCIPLES    AND    PRACTICE. 
Pruning  is  one  of  the  most  important  operations  con- 
nected with  the  management  of  trees.    From  the  removal 
of  the  seedling  plant  from  the  seed-bed,  through  all  its 


PEUNI^TG.  101 

successive  stage-  of  growtli  and  maturity,  pruning,  to 
some  extent,  and  for  some  purpose,  is  necessary.  It  may, 
therefore,  be  reasonably  presumed  that  no  one  is  capable 
of  managing  trees  successfully,  and  especially  those  con- 
ducted under  certain  forms,  more  or  less  opposed  to 
nature,  witliout  knowing  well  how  to  prune^  what  to prune^ 
and  when  to  prune.  This  knowledge  can  only  be  acquired 
by  a  careful  study  of  the  structure  of  trees,  because  the 
pruning  applied  to  a  tree  must  (aside  from  the  general 
principles  on  which  all  pruning  depends)  be  adapted  to 
its  particular  habits  of  growth  and  mode  of  bearing  its 
fruit.  It  is  in  view  of  this  fact  that  the  chapter  on  the 
structure  and  mode  of  formation  of  the  diiferent  parts  of 
fruit  trees  has  been  given  in  the  first  part  of  this  treatise, 
that  it  may  form  the  basis  of  this  branch  of  culture. 

The  idea  that  our  bright  American  sun  and  clear  at- 
mosphere render  pruning  an  almost  unnecessary  operation, 
has  not  only  been  inculcated  by  horticultural  writers,  but 
has  been  acted  upon  in  practice  to  such  an  extent,  that 
more  than  three-fourths  of  all  the  bearing  fruit  trees  in 
the  country  are  at  this  moment  either  lean,  misshaped 
skeletons,  or  the  heads  are  perfect  masses  of  wood,  unable 
to  yield  more  than  one  bushel  in  ten  of  fruit,  well  matur- 
ed, colored,  and  ripened. 

This  is  actually  the  case  even  in  what  may  be  called, 
in  comparison,  well-managed  orchards.  Look  at  the  dif- 
ference between  the  fruits  produced  on  young  and  old 
trees.  The  former  are  open,  the  fruits  are  exposed  to  the 
sun,  and,  therefore,  they  .are  not  only  large  and  perfect, 
but  their  skins  arc  smooth  and  brilliant,  as  though  they 
were  painted  and  polished.  This  ought  to  teach  us  some- 
thing about  pruning.  But  this  is  only  one  point.  We 
prune  one  portion  of  a  tree  to  reduce  its  vigor,  and  to 
favor  the  growth  of  another  and  weaker  part.  We  prune 
a  stem,  a  branch,  or  a  shoot,  to  produce  ramifications  of 
these  parts,  and  thus  chanrre  or  modify  the  form  of  the 


ruyr  gkneral  principles. 

whole.  We  prune  to  induce  fruitfulness,  and  to  diminish 
it.  We  prune  in  the  growing  as  well  as  in  the  dormant 
season,  and,  finally,  we  |)rune  both  roots  and  branches. 
Thus  we  see  that  pruning  is  applied  to  all  parts  of  the 
tree,  at  all  seasons,  and  to  produce  the  most  opposite 
results. 

It  appears  necessary  to  ti-eat  of  pruning,  under  each  of  ^ 
these  circumstances,  separately. 

1st.  Priminr/  to  dlrct  the  Growth  from  one  part  of 
a  tree  to  another. — The  first  period  in  the  existence  and 
growth  of  a  tree  in  which  this  becomes  necessary,  is  in 
the  nursery.  Those  who  have  liad  any  experience  in  tree 
culnire,  have  ohserved  that  young  trees  in  nursery  rows 
ha^^e  a  tendency  to  increase  in  lieight  without  acquiring  a 
well-proportioned  increase  in  diameter.  In  certain  cases, 
this*  want  of  proportion  becomes  so  great,  tliat  the  tree 
bends  under  its  own  weight,  and  hence  it  is  necessary  to 
res'-rt  to  some  method  of  propping  it  up.  This  condition 
is  attributable  to  several  causes.  First,  the  absence  of  a 
sufficient  amount  of  air  and  light  around  the  stem,  to 
enable  the  leaves  on  it  to  fulfill  their  functions  properly. 
It  has  been  shown  that  the  formation  of  new  wood  de- 
pev«ds  upon  the  elaborating  process  carried  on  in  the 
leaves,  and  that  this  process  can  be  maintained  only  in  a 
free  exposure  to  the  sun  and  air.  This  being  the  case,  it 
is  obvious  that  any  ]iart  of  the  tree  excluded  from  the 
action  of  these  agents  caimot  keep  pace  in  growth  with 
other  parts  to  which  tliey  have  full  access.  In  nursery 
rows,  as  trees  are  usually  planted,  the  stems,  after  the 
first  year's  growth,  are  to  a  ureat  extent  excluded  from 
the  light,  consequently  the  buds  and  leaves  on  tliem  can- 
not perform  their  ]iarts  in  the  creation  of  new  wood.  The 
top  of  the  tree,  however,  is  fully  exposed,  and,  conse- 
quently, it  makes  a  rapid  growth  towai-ds  the  free  air  and 
light.  When  this  is  continued  for  two  or  three  years  in 
succession,  the  tree  becomes  top-heavy;  the  quantity  of 


PKUNING.  103 

woody  fibre  at  the  top  is  as  great  as,  and  it  niay  be 
greater  than,  at  the  bottom  ;  and  hence  it  bends  imder 
its  own  weight. 

2d.  The  tendency  of  the  sap  to  the  groining  points 
at  the  top  of  the  tree. — Growth  is  always  the  most  ac- 
tive and  vigorous  at  the  newly  formed  parts,  when  trees 
are  in  a  natural  condition.  The  young  buds  are  the  most 
excitable,  and  the  more  direct  their  communication  with 
the  roots,  the  more  rapid  will  be  their  growth.  Hence 
it  is  that  a  yearling  tree,  furnished  with  fifteen  to  twenty 
buds  or  more,  from  its  base  to  its.  top,  frequently  produces 
a  shoot  frotn  its  terminal  bud  only,  and  seldom  more  than 
three  or  four  shoots  from  the  whole  number  of  buds,  and 
these  at  the  top.  This  natural  tendency,  and  the  exclu- 
sion of  light  from  the  stems  of  nursery  trees  by  their 
closeness  to  one  another,  are  the  chief  causes  of  weak 
and  crooked  trees,  to  counteract  which  we  resort  to 
p^'uning. 

In  "  heading  down  "  a  young  tree.,  we  cut  away  one- 
third  or  one-half  of  the  length  of  the  stem,  and  this  removes 
the  actively  growing  parts.  The  sap  must  then  find  new 
channels.  Its  whole  force  is  directed  to  the  buds  that  were 
before  dormant ;  they  are  excited  into  growth,  and  produce 
new  wood  and  leaves  ;  these  send  down  new  layers  of 
woody  fibre  on  the  old  stem,  and  it  increases  rapidly  in 
diameter,  so  that  by  the  time  it  has  attained  its  former 
height,  the  base  is  two  or  three  times  as  thick  as  the  top, 
and  possesses  sufticient  strength  to  maintain  an  erect 
position. 

Maintaining  an  equal  Growth  among  the  bramhes  of  a 
tree  is  conducted  on  the  same  principle.  Branches  that 
are  more  favorably  placed  than  others,  appropriating  more 
than  their  due  proportion  of  the  sap,  and  growing  too  vig- 
orously, are  checked  by  removing  more  or  less  of  their 
growing  points;  this  lessens  the  flow  of  sap  to  that 
point,  and  it  naturally  takes  its   course   to  the  growing 


104  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

parts  of  the  Aveaker  branches  that  were  left  entire,  and 
thus  a  balance  is  restored. 

Pruning  to  renev^  the  Groxnth  of  stunted  trees. — It 
frequently  happens  that  trees,  from  certain  causes,  become 
stunted,  and  almost  cease  to  grow,  and  every  part  as- 
sumes a  comparatively  dormant  condition.  In  such  cases 
they  are  cut  back,  the  number  of  their  buds  and  leaves  is 
reduced,  the  whole  force  of  the  sap  is  made  to  act  upon 
the  small  number  remaining,  and  enables  them  to  produce 
vigorous  young  shoots ;  these  send  down  new  woody 
matter  to  the  stem,  new  roots  are  also  formed,  and  tlius 
the  whole  tree  is  renewed  and  invigorated. 

Pruning  to  indwe  Fruitfulness. — This  is  conducted  on 
the  principle  that  whatever  is  favorable  to  rapid,  vigorous 
growth,  is  unfavorable  to  the  immediate  production  of 
fruit.  Hence,  the  object  in  view  must  be  to  check  grow  th 
and  impede  the  circulation  of  the  sap — just  the  opposite 
of  pruning  to  renew  growth.  The  only  period  at  which 
this  pruning  can  be  performed,  is  after  vegetation  has 
commenced.  If  a  tree  is  severely  pruned  immediately 
after  it  has  put  forth  its  leaves,  it  receives  such  a  check  ns 
to  be  unable  to  produce  a  vigorous  growth  the  same 
season  ;  the  sap  is  impeded  in  its  circulation,  and  the  re- 
sult is  that  a  large  number  of  the  young  shoots  that 
would  have  made  vigorous  wood  branches,  had  they  not 
been  checked,  assume  the  character  of  fruit  sj^urs  and 
branches.  Pinching  is  the  principal  mode  of  pruning 
to  promote  fruitfulness,  and  will  be  explained  hereafter. 
It  depends  upon  the  above  principle  of  impeding  the 
circulation  of  the  sap  and  checking  growth. 

Pru7iing  to  diminish  Fruitfulness  is  conducted  on  the 
same  principle  as  that  to  renew  growth,  for  this,  in  fact, 
is  the  object. 

Pruning  the  Roots. — This  is  practiced  as  well  to  pro- 
mote fruitfulness  as  to  lessen  the  dimensions  of  trees. 
The  roots,  as  has  been  shown,  are  the  organs  that  absorb 


PRUNING.  105 

from  the  ground  the  principal  food  of  the  tree,  and  in  pro- 
portion to  their  number,  size,  and  activity,  other  things 
being  equal,  are  the  vigor  and  growtli  of  the  stem  and 
brandies.  Hence,  when  a  tree  is  dei)rived  of  a  certain 
portion  of  its  roots,  its  supply  of  food  from  the  soil  is 
lessoned,  growtli  is  checked,  the  sap  moves  slowly  in  its 
channels,  is  better  elaborated  in  the  leaves,  and  the  yoimg 
branches  and  buds  begin  to  assume  a  fruitful  character. 

Roots  are  also  pruned  to  prevent  them  from  penetrat- 
ing too  deeply  into  the  earth,  and  to  induce  the  formation 
of  lateral  roots  near  the  surface,  similar  to  the  cutting 
back  of  a  stem  to  produce  lateral  branches  ;  the  principle 
is  the  same. 

Prunlnq  at  the  time  of  Transplanting.— This  is  per- 
formed, not  only  to  remove  bruised  and  broken  roots  and 
branches,  but  to  restore  the  tree  to  a  proper  balance.  As 
trees  are  ordinarily  taken  from  the  ground,  the  roots  are 
bruised,  broken,  or  mutilated,  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 
This  obviously  destioys  the  natural  balance  or  proportion 
that  existed  between  the  roots  and  stem,  and  in  such  a 
condition  the  tree  is  unable  to  grow.  The  demand  upon 
the  roots  must  therefore  be  lessened  by  reducing  the  stem 
and  branches  in  length  or  number,  or  both  ;  and  the  more 
the  roots  have  sufiered,  the  greater  must  be  the  reduction 
of  the  stem  and  branches  to  bring  them  to  a  correspond- 
ing condition. 

I 

PRUNINfi    MECHANICALLY    CONSIDERED. 

Having  now  treated  of  the  principles  on  which  prun- 
ing depends,  it  remains  to  speak  of  its  mechanical  execu- 
tion ;  for  it  is  not  only  necessary  to  know  what  and  why, 
but  hoio  to  prune.  Theory  is  only  useful  as  it  serves  to 
guide  in  practice. 

1st.  Pruiiing  Stems  or  Branches. — The  great  point  to 
be  observed  in  making  incisions  on  the  stems  and  branches 
5* 


106 


GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 


of  trees,  is  to  provide  for  the  sj)eedy  and  perfect  healing 
of  the  wounds,  or  cut  surfaces.  In  removing  a  portion  of 
a  branch,  or  stem,  if  we  cut  between  two  joints,  and  thus 
leave  a  portion  of  wood  above  the  bud  intended  to  be 
cut  to,  as  in  fig.  81,  this  wood  dies,  and  we  have  the 
troul)le  of  another  pruning  to  remove  It.  If  we  cut  too 
close  to  the  bud,  and  tlius  remove  a  ])ortlon  of  the  wood 
with  which  It  is  connected,  as  in  fig.  82,  the  bud  will 
either  die,  or  disappoint  us  by  producing  a  very  feeble 
gi-owth.  The  proper  way  is  to  take  the  branch  to  be 
operated  on  in  the  left  hand,  place  the  edge  of  the  knife 


83. 


81  to  84. — PUUNING. 


Fig.  81,  cutting  too  far  above  tlie  bud.  Fig.  82,  cutting  too  close.  Fig.  83,  the 
cut  as  it  should  be.  Fig.  84,  removal  of  a  branch,  the  crotss-line  indicating  the 
proper  place  for  the  cut. 

on  it,  opposite  the  lower  part  of  the  hud  to  be  cut  to, 
and  then  make  a  firm,  quick,  smooth  draw-cut,  sloping 
upwards,  so  that  the  knife  will  come  out  on  a  level  with 
the  point  of  the  bud,  as  in  fig.  83.  "  Li  soft- wooded,  pitliy 
trees,  like  the  grape-vine,  for  example,  half  an  inch  of 
wood  ought  to  be  left  above  the  bud.  The  cut  should 
also  be  made  as  much  as  possible  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
branch  to  prevent  rain  from  lodging  in  the  center.  The 
position  of  the  bud  cut  to  is  also  worthy  of  consideration 
in  pruning,  to  produce  or  modify  certain  forms.     When 


PRUNING.  107 

we  wish  the  new  shoot  of  a  lateral  branch  to  take,  as 
much  as  possible,  an  uprljht  direction,  we  prune  to  a  bud 
on  tlie  inside  /  and  if  we  wish  it  to  spread^  we  clioose 
one  on  the  outside.  In  the  annua/,  suppn  ssion,  or  cutting 
back  of  young  trees,  to  form  a  stem  or  side  branches,  the 
bud  selected  to  form  the  lender  is  chosen  on  op^yosite 
sides  every  successive  year,  in  order  to  maintain  tlie  growth 
in  a  straight  line.  If  cut  every  year  to  a  bud  on  the 
same  side,  it  would,  in  two  or  three  seasons,  show  an 
inclination  to  that  side  injurious  to  tlie  symmetry  of  the 
tree. 

77ie  removal  of  large  branches,  where  they  are  to  be 
entirely  separated  from  the  tree,  is  often  very  clumsily 
performed.  In  orchards,  it  is  not  at  all  uncommon  to  see 
them  chopped  oif  with  a  common  axe  ;  and  even  in  gar- 
dens there  seem  to  be  few  persons  who  either  know  how, 
or  Take  the  proper  cai*e  in  this  matter.  They  are  either 
cut  so  that  a  portion  of  the  base  of  the  branch  remains, 
an(^  sends  out  vigorous  shoots,  defeating  the  objects  of 
thf  2)runing,  or  they  are  cut  so  close  that  a  poi'tion  of  the 
wood  of  the  main  branch  or  stem  is  taken  with  them, 
and  a  wound  made  that  years  are  required  to  heal  up. 
Both  these  extremes  ought  to  be  avoided. 

The  surface  of  the  cut  made  by  the  removal  of  a  branch 
should  in  no  case  be  larger  than  the  base  of  the  branch. 
Where  a  branch  is  united  to  another  or  to  the  main  stem, 
we  notice,  both  above  and  below  the  point  of  union,  a 
small  projection,  or  shoulder,  as  at  the  cross-line  in  fig. 
84,  The  knife  must  enter  just  below  that  shoulder,  and, 
by  being  drawn  upwards  in  a  straight  line,  the  base  is  so 
completely  removed  that  no  shoots  can  be  produced  there, 
and  yet  the  cut  surface  on  the  stem  is  no  larger  thnn  the 
base  of  the  branch.  When  the  saw  is  used,  the  surface 
of  the  cut  should  be  pared  smooth  with  the  knife,  both 
to  prevent  water  lodging  on  it,  and  to  facilitate  the  heal- 
ing of  the  wound. 


108  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

2d.  Pruning  the  Roots. — This  is  performed  by  opening 
a  trench  around  tlie  tree,  just  at  the  extremities  of  the 
roots  :  the  distance  from  the  tree  will,  therefore,  depend 
on  its  size,  And  the  spreading  character  of  the  roots. 
The  trench  should  be  the  width  of  a  common  garden 
spade,  and  deep  enough  to  admit  of  an  inspection  of  all 
the  roots  of  the  tree.  If  the  Literal  roots  are  to  be  short- 
ened, this  is  done  first.  The  knife  should  be  placed  on 
the  lower  side  of  the  root,  and  the  part  separated  Avith  a 
clean  draw-cut,  such  as  would  l)e  performed  on  a  branch. 
If  the  tree  has  vertical  or  tap  roots,  they  are  most 
easily  operated  on  with  a  sharp  spade,  prepared  and  kept 
for  the  purpose.  A  smart  stroke  wntli  such  a  spade,  in  as 
nearly  a  horizontal  direction  as  possible,  w^ill  separate  a 
pretty  strong  root.  The  extent  to  which  root  pruning 
may  be  performed  depends  on  the  character  of  the  spe- 
cies, the  condition  of  the  tree  as  regards  growth,  and  the 
object  aimed  at.  Those  practising  it  for  the  first  time 
should  go  to  work  with  great  caution.  It  will  be  better 
to  operate  too  lightly  than  too  severely.  As  regards  the 
season,  it  may  be  performed  either  at  the  end  of  the  first 
growth,  in  July  or  August,  or  in  the  autumn  or  winter, 
when  vegetation  is  quite  suspended.  We  have  operated 
on  cherry  trees  with  complete  success  in  August,  in  a  dry 
time,  when  little  growth  was  going  on.  At  this  season, 
a  copious  w^atering  should  be  given  after  the  pruning  is 
performed. 

Implements  of  ])runing,  and  the  mode  of  using  them, 
will  be  treated  of  in  the  chapter  on  implements,  to  be 
given  hereafter. 

The  Season  for  Pruning. — We  are  not  permitted  to  be 
very  definite  on  this  point.  The  climate,  the  nature  of 
the  species,  etc.,  control  the  period  of  pruning  to  a  great 
extent.  In  the  South,  w'hat  w'e  term  the  winter  pruning 
— ^that  performed  during  the  dormant  season — may  be 
done  very  soon  after  the  fall  of  the  leaf.     In  the  North, 


PRUXING.  1 09 

it  is  deferred  to  February,  March,  and  even  April.  In 
Western  New  York,  we  ])rune  apples,  pears,  and  other 
hardy  fruits  any  time  that  we  have  leisure,  between  the 
fall  of  the  leaf  and  the  first  of  April. 

The  peach  we  prune  just  as  the  buds  begin  to  swell. 
The  fruit  and  leaf  buds  are  then  easily  distinguished  from 
one  another,  and  the  objects  of  the  pruning  are  accom- 
plished with  more  precision. 

Grapes  may  be  pruned  any  time  in  the  winter,  as  a 
portion  of  wood  is  always  loft  above  the  bud  ;  and  if  the 
wood  is  wanted  for  propagation,  it  should  be  cut  before 
the  season  of  severe  frosts  arrive,  as  the  buds  are  liable 
to  be  injured.  Gooseberries  and  currants,  also,  any  time 
in  winter.  The  stone  fruits  should  always  be  lightly 
pruned,  because  severe  amputations  almost  invariably 
produce  the  gum.  Where  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  in 
tlie  spring,  the  wound  should  be  coated  with  grafting 
composition,  or  with  that  recommended  by  Mr.  Downing: 
"  Alcohol,  with  sufficient  gum  shellac  dissolved  in  it  to 
make  a  liquid  of  the  consistence  of  paint,  to  be  put  on 
with  a  brush." 

This  excludes  air,  and  is  not  affected  by  changes  of 
weather. 

Pinching  is  a  sort  of  anticipated  pruning,  practiced 
upon  the  young  growing  shoots,  intended  to  promote  a 
uniform  circulation  of  the  sap,  and  thus  regulate  the 
growth,  and  also  to  induce  fruitfulness. 

1st.  To  regidate  the  Groioth. — In  the  management  of 
trees,  this  is  an  operation  of  great  imj)ortance,  as  it  obvi- 
ates the  necessity  of  heavy  amputations  being  made  at 
the  winter  or  spring  pruning.  Instead  of  allowing  certain 
superfluous  or  misplaced  slioots  to  acquire  their  full  de- 
velopment at  the  expense  of  other  parts,  we  junch  them 
early,  and  give  to  the  necessary  parts,  or  branches  of  the 
tree,  the  nutriment  which  they  would  have  appropriated 
if  allowed  to  remain.     In  this  way  we  are  able  to  obtain 


no 


GBNEUAL    I'laNCIPLES. 


results  in  one  season  that  two  or  more  would  l)e  required 
for,  if  we  depended  wholly  on  the  winter  pruning.  We 
will  suppose,  for  an  example,  the  case  of  a  young  nursery 
tree  in  tlie  second  year,  intended  for  a  standard.  In  ordi- 
nary cases,  the  terminal  bud,  either  the  natural  one  or 


Fig.  85,  A — Fig.  85,  B. — puuning  and  pinching.  ^ 

Fig  85,  A,  licad  of  a  young  tree  ;   b.  tlic  leader;   «,  a,  vigorous  shoots  l)elow 

it,  that  ought  to  have  been  pinclied.     Fig.  85,  B,  a  branch  of  the  pear,  twice  cut 

baclj,  with  the  lateral  shoots  pinched  ;  a,  o,  the  first  section  ;  c,  c,  c,  the  second; 

b,  and  d,  d,  shoots  pinched  close  to  favor  the  leader  and  those  below  them. 

that  pruned  to,  is  developed  into  tlie  leading  shoot  or 
stem,  and  a  greater  or  less  number  of  buds  below  it  pro- 
duce branches;    and  it  frequently  happens  that  some  of 


PRUXING.  Ill 

these,  if  not  | 'inched,  acquire  so  mucli  vigor  as  to  injure 
the  leader,  and  produce  a  consequent  deformity  in  the 
tree.  Figure  85  [A)  represents  a  case  of  this  kind,  which 
is  very  common,  and  too  often  neglected.  The  shoots,  a, 
a,  ought  to  have  been  pinched  tiie  moment  they  began  to 
exhibit  a  disposition  to  outgrow  tlie  leader.  There  are 
other  cases,  still  worse  than  tliis,  familiar  to  all  tree 
growers ;  for  instance,  Avliere  a  strong  shoot  is  produced 
on  the  middle  or  lower  part  of  the  stem,  attracting  an 
undue  proportion  of  the  sap,  thus  (l-ontracting  the  growth 
of  all  other  parts,  and  giving  the  young  tree  a  deformed 
ch:iracter.  All  such  shoots  as  these  should  be  nipped 
early,  the  moment  their  cliaracter  is  apparent,  and  thus  a 
year's  growth,  nearly,  will  be  saved  to  the  tree,  and  its 
proper  form  and  proportions  be  preserved.  In  conducting 
young  trees  for  pyramids,  the  constant  and  careful  appli- 
cation of  pin.-hing  is  absolutely  necessary,  for  in  tliem  we 
must  have  the  lower  branches  always  the  strongest  and 
longest,  and  it  is  only  by  operating  on  the  shoots,  in  their 
earliest  stages  of  growth,  that  we  can  fully  attain  this 
en\ ;  for  tlie  strongest  shoots  do  not  always  grow  at  the 
desireil  point,  but  by  timely  attenti(m  they  are  perfectly 
within  our  control.  The  various  accidents  and  circum- 
stances  to  which  young  trees  are  subject,  give  rise,  in  a 
multitude  of  cases,  to  an  unequal  distribution  of  the  sap 
in  their  dittereiit  })arts,  and  this  produces,  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  ileformity  of  growth.  This  at  once  shows  the 
necessity  for  pinching,  to  check  the  strong  and  favor  the 
weak.  I 

Pinching  to  promote  Frultfubiess. — Those  who  have 
never  practised  this,  or  observed  its  results,  may  have 
seen,  if  ex|)erienced  in  tree  growing,  that  a  shoot  of  which 
the  point  was  broken,  bruised,  or  otherwise  injured,  dur- 
ing the  growing  season,  frequently  becomes  a  fruit  branch 
eitiier  during  the  same  or  the  following  season  ;  and  this, 
especially  if  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  tree,  or  on  the 


112  GENERAL   PRINCIPLES. 

older  and  lower  parts  of  the  branches.  The  check  given 
to  the  extension  of  the  shoot  concentrates  the  sap  in  the 
part  remaining  ;  and,  unless  the  check  has  been  given 
very  early  in  the  season,  or  the  growth  is  very  vigorous  in 
the  tree,  so  that  the  buds  will  break  and  form  shoots,  they 
are  certain  to  prepare  for  the  production  of  fruit.  It  is 
on  this  principle  of  checking  the  growth  and  concentrat- 
ing the  sap  ill  the  pinched  shoot,  that  pincliing  to  induce 
fruitfulnoss  is  performed ;  and  its  efficiency  may  be  esti- 
mated from  the  fact,  that  trees  on  wliich  it  has  been  prac- 
tised, have  borne  fruit  four  or  five,  and  perhaps  seven 
years,  sooner  than  tliey  would  liave  done  without  it. 

It  is  a  most  useful  operation  in  the  case  of  vigorous 
growing  and  tardy  bearing  sorts.  The  mode  of  performing 
it  is  to  pinch  oiF  the  end  of  tlie  shoot  with  tlie  finger  and 
thumb ;  if  a  small  portion  of  the  remaining  part  be  bruis- 
ed, no  matter,  it  offers  a  greater  check  than  if  a  clean  cut 
were  made,  as  in  pruning  to  a  bud ;  and  in  the  general 
winter  or  spring  pruning  which  follows,  the  bruised  parts 
can  be  cleanly  separated.  The  time  to  perform  it  depends 
wholly  on  circumstances.  If  the  object  be  to  regulate 
growth,  then  the  time  to  do  it  is  when  the  tendency  to 
undue  or  ill-proportioned  growth  is  first  observable,  and 
tliis  will  be  from  the  time  the  young  shoots  are  two  to 
three  inches  long  and  upwards.  The  particular  season  of 
the  year  or  day  of  tlic  month  will,  of  course,  depend  upon 
the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the  season,  and  on  the  soil  and 
situation  as  well  as  on  the  habits  of  growth  of  the  species 
or  variety  to  be  operated  on.  The  true  way  is  to  be  al- 
ways on  the  watch.  If  the  object  be  to  induce  fruitful- 
ness,  the  length  which  the  shoots  should  attain  before 
being  pinched,  depends  upon  the  nature  or  mode  of  growth 
and  bearing  of  the  species,  and  will  be  more  definitely 
treated  hereafter,  under  the  head  of  "The  Pruning  of 
Trees ;"  the  object  now  being  merely  to  indicate  general 
principles  and  njodes  of  operating.     To  illuRtrate  this,  let 


PRUNING.  113 

US  suppose  the  lateral  brancli  of  a  pear  tree,  (fig.  85,  JB). 
This  was  cut  hack  the  first  time  to  b,  and  below  that 
jioint  five  shoots  were  j^roduced,  none  of  which  were  need- 
ed for  branches.  We  therefore  pinched  tliem  in  June, 
when  about  three  inches  long  or  thereabouts,  and  the 
result  is,  they  are  now  fruit  branches.  The  same  branch 
was  cut  back  the  second  time  to  d,  d,  and  on  that  section 
seven  shoots  Avere  produced  that  were  not  needed  in  the 
form  of  the  tree,  and  were  consequently  pinclied,  and  will 
become  fruit  branches.  At  the  points  l>,  and  c?,  d,  are 
small  spurs,  the  base  of  shoots  that  have  been  pinched 
close  to  favor  the  growth  of  the  leader,  as  well  as  the 
development  of  the  shoots  below.  Without  pinching,  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  obtain  such  results  in  this 
branch  in  the  same  time. 

M.  Dubreuil,  formerly  Professor  of  Arboriculture  in  the 
Garden  of  Plants  at  Rouen,  in  France,  sums  up  the  gen- 
eral principles  of  pruning  as  follows.  (I  may  remark  here, 
that  in  1849  I  visited  the  Rouen  garden,  and  found  M. 
Dubreuil's  theory  and  practice  beautifully  illustrated  on 
the  trees  in  his  charge.  My  visit  was  made  at  the  time 
of  his  piactical  lectures,  and  I  was  able  to  examine  the 
wiiole  Avith  the  most  satisfactory  minuteness.  The  trees 
there,  under  all  forms,  and  embracing  all  the  hardy  spe- 
cies of  fruits,  were  the  best  that  I  found  anywhere,  not 
even  excepting  the  much  admired  and  famous  pyramidal 
pear  trees  of  ]M.  Cappe,  at  Paris.  They  were  not  only 
perfect  in  form,  but,  as  regards  viffor  and  fruitfulness,  in 
the  most  admirable  condition.)     He  says  : 

"  The  theory  of  the  pruning  of  fruit  trees  rests  on  the 
following  six  general  principles  : 

"  1.  The  vigor  of  a  tree,  subjected  to  pruning^  depends, 
in  a  great  measure,  on  the  equal  distribution  of  sap  in  all 
its  branches. 

"  In  fruit  trees  abandoned  to  themselves,  the  sap  is 
equally  distributed  in  the  diflferent  parts  without  any  other 


114  GENEUAL    PKINCIPLES. 

aid  tlian  nature,  because  the  tree  assumes  the  form  most 
in  harmony  with  the  natural  tendency  of  tlie  sap.* 

"  But  in  those  submitted  to  pruning,  it  is  different ;  the 
forms  imposed  on  them,  such  as  espalier,  pyramid,  vase, 
etc.,  change  more  or  ]ess  the  normal  direction  of  the  sap, 
and  prevent  it  from  taking  the  form  proper  to  its  species. 
Thus  nearly  all  the  forms  given  to  trees  require  tlie  devel- 
opment of  ramifications  more  or  less  numerous,  and  of 
greater  or  less  dimensions  at  the  base  of  the  stem.  And, 
as  the  sap  tends  by  preference  towards  the  summit  of  the 
tree,  it  hap|)ens  that,  unless  great  care  be  taken,  the 
branches  at  the  base  become  feeble,  and  finally  dry  up, 
and  the  form  intended  to  be  obtained  disappears,  to  be 
replaced  by  the  natural  form,  that  is,  a  stem  or  a  trunk 
with  a  branching  head.  It  is  then  indispensable,  if  we 
wish  to  preserve  the  form  we  impose  upon  trees,  to  em- 
ploy certain  means,  by  the  aid  of  which  the  natural  direc- 
tion of  the  sap  can  be  changed  and  directed  towards  the 
points  where  we  wish  to  obtain  the  most  vigorous  growth. 
To  do  this  we  must  arrest  vegetation  in  the  parts  to  which 
the  sap  is  carried  in  too  great  abundance,  and  on  the  con- 
trary favor  the  ])arts  that  do  not  receive  enough.  To  ac- 
complish this  the  following  means  must  be  successively 
employed. 

"  (1.)  Prune  the  branches  of  the  most  vigorous  parts  very 
short,  and  those  of  the  weak  parts  long.  We  know  that  the 
sap  is  attracted  by  the  leaves.  The  removal  of  a  large 
number  of  wood-buds  from  the  vigorous  parts,  deprives 
these  parts  of  the  leaves  which  these  buds  would  have  jiro- 
duced ;  consequently  the  sap  is  attracted  there  in  less 
quantities,  and  the  growth  thereby  diminished.  The  feeble 


»  This  is  not  true  in  all  cases.  Peach  trees,  we  know,  in  our  climate,  left  to 
themselves,  exhibit  a  very  striking  example  of  the  unequal  distribution  of  the 
sap.  The  ends  of  the  branches  attract  nearly  the  whole,  leavin-^  the  lateral  shoots 
and  lower  parts  to  die  out.  In  other  species,  similar  instances  misjht  be  quoted, 
and  as  a  general  thing,  the  proposition  is  unsound,  except  in  a  comparative 
senee. 


puuxiNC.  115 

jiarts  being  pruned  long,  present  a  great  number  of  buds, 
Avhich  produce  a  large  surface  of  leaves,  and  these  attract 
the  sap  and  acquire  a  vigorous  growtli.  This  principle 
holds  good  in  all  trees,  under  whatever  form  they  niay  be 
conducted. 

"  (2.)  Leave  a  large  quantity  of  fndt  on  the  strong  part, 
and  remove  the  wJiole^or  greater  part,  from  the  feeble.  We 
know  already  that  the  fruit  has  the  property  of  attracting 
to  it  the  sap  from  the  roots,  and  of  employing  it  entirely 
to  its  own  growth.  The  necessary  result  of  this  is,  what  we 
are  about  to  point  out,  viz.,  that  all  the  sap  which  arrives 
in  the  strong  parts,  will  be  absorl)od  by  the  fruits,  and  the 
wood  there,  in  consecpience,  will  make  but  little  growth; 
while  on  the  feeble  part,  deprived  of  fruits,  the  sap  will 
all  be  appropriated  by  the  growing  jiarts,  and  they  will 
increase  in  size  and  strength. 

"(3.)  Bend  the  strong  parts,  and  keep  the  loeak  erect. 
The  more  erect  the  branches  and  stem  arc,  the  gi*eater  will 
be  the  flow  of  sap  to  the  growing  parts  ;  hence,  the  feeble 
parts  being  erect,  attract  much  more  sap  than  the  strong 
parts  inclined,  and,  consequently,  make  a  more  vigorous 
growth  and  soon  recover  their  balance.  This  remedy  is 
moi"e  especially  applied  to  espalier  trees. 

"  (4.)  Remove  from  the  vigorous  parts  the  superfluous 
shoots  as  early  in  the  season,  as  j^osslble,  and  from  the 
feeble  parts  as  late  as  j)ossible.  The  fewer  the  number  of 
young  shoots  there  are  on  a  branch,  the  fewer  there  are 
of  leaves,  and  consequently  the  less  is  the  sap  attracted 
there.  Hence,  in  leaving  the  young  shoots  on  the  feeble 
part,  their  leaves  attract  the  sap  there,  and  induce  a  vigor- 
ous growth, 

"  (5.)  Pinch  early  the  soft  extremities  of  the  shoots  on  the 
vigorous  parts,  and  as  late  as  possible  on  the  feeble  parts, 
excepting  always  any  shoots  xohich  may  be  too  vigorous 
for  their  position.  By  thus  pinching  early,  the  strong 
part,  the  flow  of  sap  to  that  point  is  checked,  and  natural- 


116  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

ly  turns  to  the  growing  parts  that  have  not  been  pinch- 
ed  ;  this  remedy  is  applicable  to  trees  in  all  forms. 

"  (6.)  Lay  in  the  strong  shoots  on  the  trellis  early,  and 
leave  the  feeble  2^arts  loose  as  long  as  possible.  Laying  in 
the  strong  i)arts  obstructs  the  circulation  of  the  sap  in 
them,  and  consequently  favors  the  weak  parts  that  are 
loose.     This  is  only  applicable  to  espaliers. 

"  (7.)  In  espalier  trees,  giving  the  feeble  parts  the  benefit 
of  the  light  and  cotifining  the  strong  parts  more  iti  the 
shade,  restores  a  balance,  for  light  is  the  agent  which  en- 
ables leaves  to  perform  their  functions  and  their  action  on 
the  roots,  and  the  parts  receiving  ilie  greatest  proportion 
of  it  acquire  the  most  vigorous  development. 

"2.  The  sap  acts  with  greater  force  and  produces  more 
vigorous  groioth  on  a  branch  or  shoot  pruned  short  than- 
on  one  pruned  long.  This  is  easily  explained.  Tlie 
sap,  acting  on  two  buds,  must  evidently  produce  a  great- 
er development  of  wood  on  them  than  if  it  were  divided 
between  fifteen  or  twenty  buds, 

"It  follows  from  this,  that  if  we  wish  to  obtain  wood 
branches,  we  prune  short,  for  vigorous  shoots  jjroduce 
few  fruit-buds.  On  the  contrary,  if  we  wish  to  obtain 
fruit  branches,  we  prune  long,  because  the  most  slender 
or  feeble  shoots  are  the  most  disposed  to  fruit. 

"  Another  application  of  this  principle  is  to  prune  short, 
for  a  year  or  two,  such  trees  or  parts  as  have  been  enfee- 
bled by  overbearing.  (This  principle  deserves  especial 
attention,  as  its  apjilication  is  of  great  importance.) 

"  3.  The  sap  tending  always  to  the  extremities  of  the 
shoots  causes  the  terminal  bud  to  push  with  greater  vigor 
than  the  laterals.  According  to  this  principle,  wlien  we 
wish  a  prolongment  of  a  stem  or  branch,  we  should  prune 
to  a  vigorous  wood-bud,  and  leave  no  production  that  can 
interfere  with  the  action  of  the  sap  on  it. 

"  4.  The  more  the  sap  is  obstructed  in  its  circulation, 
the  more  likely   it  will  be  to  prodiice  fritit-buds.     This 


PRUNlNCf.  117 

principle  is  founded  on  a  fact  to  which  we  have  already- 
had  occasion  to  refer,  viz.,  that  the  sap  circulating  slowly 
is  subjected  to  a  more  complete  elaboration  in  the  tissues 
of  the  tree,  and  becomes  better  adapted  to  the  formation 
of  fruit-buds. 

"This  principle  can  be  applied  to  produce  the  following 
results  :  When  we  wish  to  produce  fruit-buds  on  a  branch, 
we  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  the  sap  by  bending  the 
branches,  or  by  making  annular  or  circular  incisions  on 
it ;  and,  on  the  contrary,  when  we  wish  to  change  a  fruit 
branch  into  a  wood  branch,  we  give  it  a  vertical  position, 
or  prune  it  to  two  or  three  buds,  on  which  we  concentrate 
the  action  of  the  sap,  and  thus  induce  their  vigorous  de- 
velopment. 

"  5.  The  leaves  serve  to  prepare  the  sap  absorbed  by  the 
roots  for  the  nourishment  of  the  tree,  and  aid  the  forma- 
tion of  buds  on  the  shoots.  All  trees^  therefore,  deprived 
of  their  leaves,  are  liable  to  perish.  This  principle  shows 
how  dangerous  it  is  to  remove  a  large  quantity  of  leaves 
*rom  trees  under  the  pretext  of  aiding  the  growth  or 
••ipening  of  fruits,  for  the  leaves  are  the  nourishing  organs, 
and  the  trees  depriveil  of  them  cannot  continue  to  grow, 
neither  can  the  fruit;  and  the  branches  so  stripped  will 
have  feeble,  ill-formed  buds,  which  will,  the  following 
year,  produce  a  weak  and  sickly  growth. 

"  6.  Where  the  buds  of  any  shoot  or  branch  do  not  de- 
velop before  the  age  of  two  years,  they  can  only  be  forced 
into  activity  by  a  very  close  pruning,  and  in  some  cases, 
as  the  peach,  this  eve?i  vxill  often  fail.  This  last  principle 
shows  the  importance  of  pruning  the  main  branches  of 
espaliers  especially,  so  as  to  insure  tlie  development  of  the 
buds  of  their  successive  sections,  and  to  preserve  well  tlie 
side  shoots  thus  produced,  for  without  this,  the  interior 
of  the  tree  will  become  naked  and  unproductive,  and  a 
remedy  will  be  very  difficult." 

If  these  principles  and  practices  of  pruning  be  carefully 


118  GENERAL    PRINCIPLES. 

Btn<Tied  in  connection  with  the  liablts  of  Gjrowth  and  bear- 
ing of  tlie  (liiferent  fruit  trees,  pruning  will  l)e  compara- 
tively aw  easy  matter.  The  mode  of  obtaining  any  par- 
ticular form  or  character  cannot  fail  to  be  perfectly  plain 
and  simple  ;  yet  no  one  need  hope  to  accomplish,  in  all 
things,  the  precise  results  aimed  at,  for  even  the  most 
Bkillful  operatO!'  is  sometimes  disappointed ;  but  those  who 
give  constant  attention  to  their  trees  will  always  discover 
a  failure  in  time  to  apply  a  remedy. 

I  insist  upon  it,  because  I  have  been  taught  it  by  most 
abundant  experience,  that  the  most  unremitting  watch- 
fulness is  necess;iry  in  conducting  trees  in  particular  forms. 
It  is  not,  by  any  means,  labor  that  is  required,  but  attention 
that  the  most  delicate  hnnd  c;m  perform.  Fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  at  a  time,  say  three  times  a  week  during  active 
growth,  will  be  sufficient  to  examine  every  shoot  on  a 
moderate  collection  of  garden  trees  ;  for  the  eye  very  soon 
becomes  trained  so  well  to  the  work,  that  a  glance  at  a 
tree  will  detect  the  parts  that  are  either  too  strong  or  too 
weak,  or  that  in  any  way  require  attention.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  features  in  the  management  of 
garden  trees.  We  are  never  allowed  to  forget  them. 
From  day  to  day  they  require  some  attention,  and  offer 
some  new  point  of  interest  that  attracts  us  to  them,  and 
augments  our  solicitude  for  their  prosperity,  until  it  actu- 
ally grows  into  enthusiasm. 


P^ET    II. 

THE    NURSERY. 


llV 


THE     NURSERY. 

CHAPTER    I. 

Section   1. — Soil,  Situation,  etc. 

It  is  not  a  part  of  the  design  of  this  treatise  to  give 
anything  like  a  full  exposition  of  nursery  operations,  for 
this  would,  in  itself,  be  a  subject  sufficiently  extensive  to 
form  a  volume  ;  but  as  all  fruit  growers  should  possess  at 
least  some  knowledge  of  nursery  management,  it  seems 
quite  necessary  that  the  more  important  points  should  be 
noticed. 

1st.  The  Soil,  as  to  Dryness. — For  a  fruit-tree  nursery 
the  soil  must  \)Q perfectly  dry,  both  above  and  below.  In 
damp,  springy  soils,  or  where  the  subsoil  is  so  compact  as 
not  to  admit  of  the  surface  water  passing  off  immediately, 
trees  do  not  thrive  ;  the  roots  are  destitute  of  fibres,  the 
wood  is  watery  and  delicate,  and  where  frosts  are  severe, 
the  trees  are  cast  out  of  the  ground  by  the  expansion  of 
the  water  with  which  the  soil  is  filled.  We  have  known 
of  a  single  instance  in  which  several  thousand  dollars 
were  lost  by  planting  a  pear  nursery  on  a  soil  imperfectly 
drained.  The  plants  grew  finely  the  first  season,  were 
budded,  the  buds  had  taken,  and  in  the  autumn  all  looked 
prosperous ;  but  the  autumn  rains  filled  the  soil  with  water ; 
the  situation  was  low  and  level,  and  the  subsoil  compact, 
so  that  the  water  could  not  possibly  get  away.  The 
consequence  was,  the  roots  decayed,  the  plants  were  cast 
out  of  the  ground,  and  the  injury  was  so  great  and  so 
general  that  the  whole  plantation  had  to  be  taken  up. 
This  ground  was  then  thoroughly  drained,  and  is  now  as 
good  a  pear  soil  as  can  be  found.  This  single  instance 
illustrates  the  importance  of  a  dry  soil,  as  well  as  twenty 
would.  We  frequently  find  that,  in  the  same  row  of  trees, 
if  there  happens  to  be  a  low,  damp  spot,  the  trees  in  it 
6  121 


122  THE    NtTESERY. 

have  no  fibrous  roots,  and  are  altogether  inferior  to  those 
on  the  adjacent  dry  ground. 

2d.  Depth. — As  a  general  thing,  the  soil  of  a  nursery 
should  be  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  deep ;  but  all  trees  do 
not  require  the  same  depth.  Those  (such  as  the  pear) 
whose  roots  descend  more  than  they  spread^  requii-e  the 
deepest  soil.  The  best  quality  of  nursery  trees  are  grown 
on  common  farming  land,  t\\ice  plowed  with  the  common 
and  subsoil  plows,  one  following  tlie  other,  as  described 
in  the  chapter  on  soils.  This  gives  depth  enough  for  all 
ordinary  j^urposes. 

3d.  Texture. — A  soil  of  medium  texture,  between  the 
heavy  and  the  light,  is,  on  the  whole,  the  most  advan- 
tageous, as  being  the  best  adapted  to  general  purposes. 
A  good  friable  loam,  with  a  gravelly  subsoil,  or  a  mixture 
of  sand,  gravel,  and  clay,  tliat  will  allow  water  to  pass 
off  freely,  will  be  found  suitable  for  almost  any  species  ; 
and  one  great  advantage  of  such  a  soil  is,  that  it  admits 
of  i-otation  in  crops. 

4th.  Quality. — For  the  growth  of  young  fruit  trees,  a 
soil  should  be  in  such  a  condition  as  to  furnish  a  sufficient 
supply  of  nutriment  to  insure  a  vigorous  and  robust 
growth  ;  but  it  may  be  too  rich,  and  produce  rank  wood 
that  will  not  mature  properly,  and  be  unable  to  withstand 
the  change  of  climate  or  soil  consequent  upon  transplant- 
ing. Where  manures  are  used,  they  should  be  well  de- 
composed ;  fresh,  warm  manures  excite  trees  into  a  very 
rapid  growth,  but  the  wood  is  watery  and  feeb'ie.  A  dry- 
soil,  of  moderate  richness,  produces  hardy  trees ;  their 
wood  is  firm,  the  buds  plump  and  close  together,  and  the 
parts  well  proportioned. 

5th.  Laying  out. — Where  the  nursery  is  of  considerable 
extent,  the  ground  should  be  laid  out  and  arranged  in 
square  or  rectangular  plots  of  convenient  size,  and  be  in- 
tersected with  walks.  One  portion  should  be  set  apart 
for  the  propagation  of  stocks  from  layers,  another  for 


SOIL,    ETC.  123 

cuttings,  another  for  seeds,  etc.  In  setting  apart  ground 
for  the  diifcrent  kinds  of  trees,  if  there  be  a  choice,  the 
pear  shouhl  have  the  deepest  and  best,  the  plum  the  most 
compact  or  clayey,  the  peach,  apricot,  cherry,  etc.,  the 
lightest  and  driest. 

Oth.  Exf)osure. — Nursery  ground  for  fruit  trees  should  be 
'well  elevated,  but  not  fully  exposed  to  the  prevailing  high 
winds,  as  the  young  trees  are  apt  to  be  broken  off  during 
the  first  year's  giowth  if  not  kept  well  tied  up  to  stakes. 
In  our  section,  we  find  it  very  advantageous  to  have  some 
protection  from  the  west  winds  especially,  though  we 
sometimt's  have  a  south  wind  quite  destructive  to  the 
young  buds  in  exposed  places.  Situations  into  which  the 
snow  is  liable  to  drift  should  be  avoided,  in  sections 
where  heavy  snow-storms  prevail,  for  sometimes  vast 
quantities  of  trees  are  broken  down  in  corners  of  fences 
and  sheltered  situations  where  the  snow  accumulates  in 
heavy  drifts. 

7th.  Rotation  or  Succession  of  Crops. — This  is  quite  as 
important  in  the  management  of  the  nursery  as  of  the 
farm.  Not  more  than  one  crop  of  one  species  should  be 
planted  on  the  same  ground,  and  those  of  the  most  oppo- 
site character  should  follow  one  another.  Where  one 
species  is  grown  on  the  same  ground  for  eight  or  ten 
years,  it  is  found  by  experience  that  even  the  most  liberal 
manuring  fails  to  produce  such  fine,  sound,  healthy,  and 
vigorous  trees  as  new  ground  without  manure.  Where 
land  is  scarce,  and  it  is  necessary  to  use  the  same  ground 
for  the  same  kind  of  trees,  it  should  at  least  be  allowed 
one,  but  much  better,  two  or  three  seasons'  rest,  and  be 
well  supplied  with  such  material  as  the  trees  to  be  grown 
in  it  require,  in  the  largest  quantities,  or  in  which  the  soil 
is  found  to  be  most  deficient.  Our  own  practice  is  to  seed 
down  with  clover,  and  break  up  the  second  or  third  year; 
giving  before  plowing  a  dressing  of  manure,  adapted  in 
quantity  and  quality  to  the  wants  of  the  soil. 


124  the  nursery. 

Section  2. — Description  and  Propagation  of  Stocks. 

This  brancli  of  the  subject  is  of  such  importance,  and 
involves  so  many  considerations,  that  it  seems  to  be  more 
methodical  to  treat  it  separately  from  subsequent  opera- 
tions. 

1st.  Stocks  for  the  Apple. — The  principal  stocks  in  use 
for  the  apple  are  the  common  seedling^  ov  free  stock,  the 
Doucin,  and  the  Paradise. 

Seedlings,  or  free  stocks,  are  ordinarily  produced  from 
seeds  taken  promiscuously  from  the  cider-mill  in  the 
autumn. 

Preparing  the  Seed. — The  cakes  of  pressed  pomace  are 
broken  up,  and  the  coarser  materials,  straw,  etc.,  sepa- 
rated from  it  by  means  of  a  coarse  sieve  ;  the  sifted  pomace 
is  then  put  into  large  tubs,  and  subjected  to  repeated 
washings  until  clean.  The  clean,  plump  seeds  fall  to  the 
bottom,  an<l  the  pomace  and  light,  poor  seeds  are  carried 
off  in  the  washings.  When  fruits  have  been  selected  for 
the  seeds,  they  are  placed  in  heaps  until  fermentation  and 
decay  have  reduced  the  flesh  to  a  soft,  pulpy  state,  when 
they  are  washed  in  tubs,  in  the  same  manner  as  pomace. 

Saving  the  Seed. — When  the  seed  is  washed  out  as 
above,  it  must  be  spread  thinly  on  boards,  and  repeatedly 
turned  over  until  perfectly  dry,  when  it  is  put  away  in 
boxes,  mixed  with  sand  containing  a  slight  degree  of 
moisture.  The  boxes  should  be  well  secured  against  ver- 
min, and  be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place  until  the  time  of 
planting. 

Season  and  Mode  of  Planting. — If  the  ground  be  in 
readiness,  and  perfectly  dry  and  friable,  the  best  time  is 
the  fall,  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  cleaned.  At  this  season 
the  pomace,  seeds  and  all,  as  it  comes  from  the  press,  may 
be  planted  without  any  washing.  It  should  be  broken 
up  fine,  so  that  it  may  be  evenly  distributed  in  the  seed 
bed.     The  difficulty  of  doing  this,  is  a  serious  objection  to 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  125 

this  mode.  By  taking  aoine  pains  in  the  sowing,  Ave  raise 
as  good  stocks  in  this  as  in  any  other  way;  the  decayed 
pulp  contributes  considerable  nutriment  to  the  young 
plants  in  their  earliest  stage  of  growth. 

When  deferred  until  spring,  it  should  be  done  at  the 
earliest  moment  that  the  condition  of  the  ground  will  ad- 
mit. When  the  ground  is  ready,  a  line  is  stretched  along 
one  side  of  the  plot,  and  a  drill  opened  with  a  hoe  about 
eight  or  ten  inches  wide,  and  three  deep ;  the  seeds  are 
then  dropped,  and  the  fine  earth  drawn  over  them  with 
the  hoe  as  regularly  as  possible,  covering  them  about  three 
inches  deep.  If  some  leaf  mould  from  the  woods,  or  old 
decomposed  manure,  in  a  fit  state  for  spreading,  could  be 
had,  iind  a  covering  of  it  an  inch  in  depth  spread  on  the 
top  of  the  drills,  it  would  prevent  the  surface  from  baking 
or  cracking,  and  allow  the  plants  to  come  up  with  greater 
strength  and  regularity.  Whatever  depth  be  used  of 
such  a  covering,  it  should  be  deducted  from  the  covering 
of  common  earth. 

Distance  to  Plant. — When  large  quantities  are  raised, 
tlie  drills  should  be  three  feet  apart,  to  admit  of  tlie  culti- 
vator passing  between  them  ;  for  the  ground  should  be 
kept  perfectly  clean  and  mellow  around  seedlings  the 
whole  season. 

After  Management. — It  is  of  great  importance  that  they 
be  not  in  any  way  stunted;  neither  in  first  coming  through 
the  soil  by  a  hard  surface,  nor  afterwards  by  weeds  and 
lack  of  culture  ;  seedlings,  stunted  during  the  early  stages 
of  their  growth,  never  make  vigorous,  healthy  stocks  ;  and, 
indeed,  should  never  be  planted.  When  they  appear 
above  the  surface,  and  are  too  close  together,  they  should, 
as  soon  as  possible,  be  thinned  out  to  regular  distances; 
for,  when  grown  up  in  dense  masses,  they  are  generally 
feeble  and  worthless.  One  hundred  good,  vigorous  stocks 
are  worth  five  hundred  poor  ones.  It  is  very  common  to 
see  seedlings  of  one  year  larger  than  those  of  two  years, 


126  THE    NTJUSERY. 

under  tliffereiit  maiiageinent ;  and,  in  sucli  a  case,  the  year- 
lings are  wortli  twice  as  much  as  the  others.  A  very  good 
phm  is  to  thin  out  all  the  weakest  2>l:ints  when  about  four 
or  five  inches  liigh,  leaving  only  those  of  vigorous  habit 
and  large  foliage.  The  prevailing  error  in  growing  apple 
seedlings,  and,  I  may  add,  all  seedlings,  is  that  of  having 
them  too  close  together — usually  three  or  four  times  as 
many  on  the  ground  as  there  should  be.  Give  them 
plenty  of  room,  good  soil,  and  clean  culture,  and  you  will 
have  good  stocks. 

The  Doucin  is  a  distinct  species  of  apple.  The  tree  is 
of  medium  size,  bears  small,  sweet  fruit,  and  reproduces 
itself  from  seed.  It  is  used  for  stocks  for  apple  trees  of 
meilium  ?\zq,  pyramids,  or  dwarf  standards  for  gardens. 
It  is  propagated  almost  exclusively  from  layers.  (See  fig. 
63.)  The  ])lants  to  be  propagated  from  are  planted  in  a 
rich,  deep,  friable  soil,  and  cut  back  to  within  four  to  »?ix 
inches  of  the  collar;  the  buds,  on  tlie  part  below  the  cut, 
will,  during  the  next  season,  produce  strong  shoots;  the 
following  spring  the  earth  is  drawn  up  around  each  plant 
in  the  form  of  a  mound,  so  that  the  whole  of  the  stem  and 
the  base  of  all  the  shoots  will  be  covered  at  least  three 
incliesdeep;  during  that  season,  all  the  shoots  will  pt-o- 
duce  roots,  and  should  be  sepaiated  from  the  mother 
plant,  or  stool,  as  such  plants  are  termed,  in  the  fall.  If 
left  on  until  spi'ing,  the  frost  wonld  be  likely  to  injure  them. 
The  stools  are  then  dresseil,the  soil  around  them  ig  spaded 
up  and  enriched  with  well-ilecayed  manure ;  and  the  fol- 
lowing season  another  crop  of  shoots  is  produced,  much 
more  numi-rous  than  the  first,  to  be  treated  in  the  same 
way.  Every  year  these  stool  plants  increase  in  size  and 
in  the  quantity  of  their  productions,  if  well  treated. 
Another  course,  but  not  so  good,  is  frequently  pursued 
when  stocks  are  scarce.  The  shoots  are  layered  by  bend- 
ing down,  as  described  in  layering,  the  first  season  of  their 
growth  in  July,  and  may  be  sufficiently  rooted  in  the  fall 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  127 

to  be  transferred  to  nursery  rows  in  the  S{)ring  follow- 
ing ;  a  year  is  tlins  saved,  but  the  stocks  are,  of  course, 
much  inferior.  If  earthed  up  in  midsummer,  they  will  be 
piirtially  rooted  in  the  autumn,  too,  but  not  so  well  us  if 
bent  down  ;  for  the  bending  has  a  tendency  to  stop  the 
sap  at  the  point  fastened  to  the  ground,  and  hastens  the 
formation  of  roots.  This  stock  may  also  be  i)ropagated 
from  root  cuttings. 

The  Paradise. — This,  also,  is  a  distinct  species  of  apple. 
The  tree  is  of  very  small  size,  never  attaining  over  three 
to  four  feet  in  height.  It  is  used  for  stocks  for  dwarf 
trees  or  bushes  that  occupy  but  a  small  space  in  the  gar- 
den. It  is  propagated  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as 
that  described  for  the  Doucin. 

2d.  Stocks  for  the  Pear. — The  />e«r  seedling  and  the 
quince  are  the  only  two  stocks  on  which  the  pear  c:m  be 
advantageously  worked  to  any  considerable  extent.  The 
Mountain  Ash  and  the  Thorn  are  occasionally  used  for 
special  ])urp()S('S  only. 

Pear  Seedlings. — The  seeds  are  obtained  by  collecting 
such  fruits  ns  can  be  had  containing  perfect  seeds.  Nearly 
all  the  seeds  used  in  this  country,  of  late  years,  have  been 
imported  from  Europe.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to 
gather  the  fruits  of  hardy,  healthy,  vigorous  trees  only, 
and  the  seeds  should  be  full  and  plump.  The  seeds  are 
separated  and  washed,  as  described  for  apples.  They  are 
also  saved  and  planted  in  a  manner  similar  in  all  respects; 
but,  in  this  country,  it  is  a  much  more  difficult  matter  to 
succeed  with  pear  seedlings  than  with  the  apple.  This 
difficulty  is  owing  chiefly  to  a  species  of  fungus,  called 
"  leaf-blight,"  that  attacks  the  leaves  of  the  young  plants, 
very  often  before  they  have  completed  their  first  season's 
growth.  To  obviate  the  difficulty  which  this  malady  pre- 
sents, a  vigorous  growth  should  be  obtained  early  in  the 
season.  New  soil,  or  that  in  which  trees  have  not  be- 
fore been  grown,  should  be  selected — an  old  pasture  is  th» 


128  THE    NURSKRY. 

best.  The  autumn  before  pbmting  it  should  be  trenched, 
or  subsoil- plowed,  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  for  the  pear 
lias  long  tap  roots,  and  liberally  enriched  with  a  compost 
of  stdble  manure,  leaf  mould,  or  muck,  and  wood-ashes, 
in  about  equal  parts  ;  four  inches  deep  of  this,  spread 
over  the  surface  before  plowing,  will  be  sufficient  for  any 
ordinary  soil.  Lime  should  also  be  given  liberally,  unless 
the  soil  be  naturally  and  strongly  calcareous.  A  soil  pre- 
pared thus  in  the  fall,  will  require  another  plowing  or 
spading  in  the  spring,  to  mix  all  the  materials  properly 
with  the  soil,  and  fit  it  for  the  seeds.  If  the  soil  be  very 
tough,  and  not  fit  to  be  turned  up,  a  thorough  harrowing 
or  working  with  the  horse-hoe  will  do.  Where  large 
quantities  are  groAvii,  the  drills  may  be  the  same  distance 
apart  as  that  recommended  for  apples — three  feet ;  but  if 
only  a  few,  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  will  be  sufficient,  as 
the  cleaning  can  be  done  with  the  hoe.  The  seeds  shi)uld 
be  scattered  thinly,  that  every  plant  may  have  sufficient 
space  without  any  thinning.  The  end  to  aim  at,  as  before 
remarked,  is  to  get  good  growth,  say  eighteen  to  twenty 
inches  in  height,  and  stout  in  proportion,  before  the  first 
of  August.  This  can  be  done  in  any  deeply-trenched  or 
plowed  fresh  soil,  well  prepared  and  manured,  as  described 
above.  I  have  been  told  that  seedling  pears,  grown  in  a 
frame,  covered  with  whitewashed  sash,  and  kept  well 
ventilated  continually,  escaped  the  "leaf-blight,"  whilst 
all  those  grown  in  open  ground,  near  by,  were  blighted ; 
showing,  as  far  as  the  experiment  goes,  that  the  sun's 
heat  has  something  to  do  with  producing  leaf-blight. 
Pear  seedlings  should  always  be  taken  up  in  the  fall,  after 
the  first  season's  growth ;  the  largest  selected  for  trans- 
planting into  the  nursery,  and  the  smaller  to  be  put  into 
beds,  to  remain  another  season. 

Quince  Stocks  are  ]>ropagated  with  considerable  success 
by  cuttings.  These  should  be  strong  shoots,  six  inches  to 
a  foot  long,  taken  off  close  to  the  old  wood,  and,  if  pos- 


PKOPA<iATIOX    OF    STOCKS.  129 

sible,  witli  a  small  portion  attached,  prepared  as  directed 
in  article  on  cuttings,  early  in  the  winter,  and  kept  in  pits 
two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  in  a  dry- 
place,  until  planting  time,  in  spring.  If  practicable,  plant 
early  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  tlie  wood  is  ripe,  and  cover 
with  leaves  on  setting  in  of  winter,  to  prevent  hard  freez- 
ing ;  success  will  be  more  certain.  They  should  be  plant- 
ed in  a  light,  friable,  deep  soil,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  apart,  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  so 
deep  that  but  a  couple  of  buds  remain  above  the  surface. 
The  ground  should  be  kept  clean  and  mellow  amongst 
tliem  all  summer,  and,  if  the  cutting:^  were  stout  and  long, 
they  will,  in  the  autumn,  be  fit  for  taking  up  and  prepar- 
ing for  ])lanting  into  nursery  rows  the  following  spring. 
The  best  and  surest  method  of  propagating  the  quince 
stock,  however,  is  by  layers.  The  manner  of  layering  is 
that  recommended  for  the  Doncin  and  Paradise — by 
earthing  up  (fig.  65).  The  stool  plants  should  be  set  out 
in  a  fine,  rich,  deep  border  of  warm,  friable  soil,  and  be 
about  six  feet  apart,  when  designed  to  be  permanent.  As 
each  stool,  by  the  system  recommended,  can  only  yield  a 
crop  of  plants  every  two  years,  there  should  be  two  sets, 
so  that  an  annual  supply  may  be  obtained.  These  stools, 
in  spite  of  tlie  best  treatment,  become  enfeebled  in  a  few 
years,  and  successive  plantations  must  be  made  where 
continual  propagation  is  intended. 

By  the  ordinary  system  of  bending  down  the  shoots, 
and  slitting,  or  even  without  the  slitting,  a  crop  may  be 
obtained  every  year — that  is,  the  shoots  of  the  current 
season's  growth  may  be  layered  in  July  or  August ;  but 
no  such  stocks  can  be  obtained  as  by  the  earthing  up  and 
taking  a  crop  every  two  years.  This  is  the  system  recom- 
mended to  those  who  want  first-rate  quince  stocks. 

The  very  general  lack  of  information  in  this  country  on 
the  subject  of  quince  stocks  for  pears  has  given  rise  to  a 
great  many  misapprehensions  and  erroneous  statements  in 
6* 


130  TIE    XITRSERY. 

regard  to  them,  l)otli  by  horticultural  writers  and  others. 
At  first  it  was  sai'l  that  the  stocks  us^'d  by  the  French,  and 
imported  by  nurserymen  here,  were  the  Portugal.  Again, 
it  Avas  discovered  they  were  nothing  more  than  the  com- 
mon apple  quince ;  consequently,  a  multitude  of  the  apple 
quinces  have  been  worked,  and  sent  out  as  "  clionrf  pens.'''' 
The  slow  and  feeble  groAVth  of  this  variety  unfits  it  entirely 
fjr  a  stock  for  thu  pear,  and  only  a  very  few  varieties  will 
form  a  imion  with  it  that  will  last  over  three  or  four  years. 
Such  trees  cannot  fail  to  give  general  dissatisfaction,  and, 
among  people  who  know  no  better,  create  a  prejudice 
aguinst  quince  stocks  in  general  Indeed,  this  is  the  cause 
why  so  much  has  been  said  about  the  pears  on  quince 
being  so  short-lived. 

The  truth  is,  that  the  varieties  used  in  France  are  nei- 
ther tlie  Apple  nor  the  Portugal  Quince,  but  vigorous 
varieties  that  have  been  originated  there,  and  found  to 
answer  tliis  purpose  particularlj^  well.  Tlie  great  requisite 
of  a  quince  stock  for  the  pear  is  a//-ee,  vi[/orous,  and  rapid 
growth.  A  variety  originated  at  the  town  of  Angers,  in 
France,  and  extensively  used,  propigated,  and  sold  there 
as  the  Angers  Q'(.i/ice,ha,s  proved  to  be  an  excellent  stock. 
It  is  a  very  rapid,  vigorous  grower,  making  strong  shoots 
three  ft^et  long,  in  one  season.  It  has  large  foliage,  resem- 
bling the  Portugal.  In  some  parts  of  France,  as  in  Nor- 
mandy, it  is  known  as  the  hroad-Jeaved.  There  is  another 
variety,  with  smaller  leaves,  l)ut  of  free,  vigorous  growth, 
too,  almost  exclusively  cultivated  in  some  districts.  Sev- 
eral extensive  nurserymen  at  Orleans,  Paris,  and  elsewhere, 
consider  it  superior  to  the  broad-leaved,  and  especially  for 
very  vigorous  growing  sorts.  It  is  known  as  the  Paris 
or  Fontenay  Quince. 

We  have  tried  both  extensively,  and  find  but  very  little 
difference,  thus  far,  in  the  results  obtained.  In  the  first 
edition  of  this  work,  I  alluded  to  an  upright  growing 
variety  which  then  promised  to  be  valuable,  but  has  since 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  131 

proved  to  be  too  feeble  in  its  growth  to  be  used  advan- 
tageously for  a  stock  for  fruit  trees,  so  it  is  abandoned. 

The  Mountain  Ash,  it  is  said,  makes  a  good  stock  for 
certain  varieties  in  very  light,  sandy  soils,  when  neither 
the  pear  nor  quince  succeeds  well.  It  is  propagated  from 
Beed,  and  requires  to  be  two  years  old  before  being 
worked. 

The  Thorn. — Seedlings  of  our  vigorous,  native  thorns 
make  good  stocks  when  about  tliree  years  old  ;  the  seeds 
require  to  be  in  the  rot-heap  one  year  before  sowing.  The 
only  cases  in  which  it  can  be  lecommeiided  are  those  in 
which  a  soil  may  be  so  wet  and  cold  as  to  be  unfit  for  the 
pear  or  quince  ;  but  it  is  better  to  improve  sucli  soils  by 
draining,  subsoil  plowing,  and  by  the  addition  of  suitable 
composts;  for  even  the  thorn  will  fail  in  giving  satisfac- 
tion on  a  stiif,  cold  soil.  I  cannot  recommend  either  the 
Thorn  or  Mountain  Ash  as  a  stock  for  the  pear,  except  as 
a  matter  of  fancy  or  experiment. 

od.  Stocks  for  the  ( 'herry. — The  principal  stocks  used 
for  the  cherry  are  the  Mazzard,  for  standard  orchard  trees, 
and  the  Mahaleb,  for  garden  pyramids  and  dwarfs. 

Mazzard  Seedlings. — The  Mazzard  cheiry  is  a  lofty, 
rapid-growing,  (tyrauiidal-lkeaded  tree.  Its  fruit  is  small, 
dark  brown  or  black,  with  a  s])rightly  flavor,  and  slight 
bitterness.  It  is  the  original  type  of  all  the  heart 
varieties. 

The  Mahaleb  (Cerasus  Mahaleb)  is  a  small  tree,  with 
glossy,  deep-greeu  foliage.  The  fruit  is  black,  about  the 
size  of  a  marrowfat  pea,  and  quite  bitter.  It  blossoms  and 
bears  fruit  when  about  'tliree  years  oM.  It  is  consider- 
ably cultivated  in  many  parts  of  Europe  as  an  orna- 
mental lawn  tree.  There  are  few  bearing  trees  in  this 
country  yet ;  consequently,  a  large  2)rop()rtiou  of  the  stocks 
are  imported,  or  grown  from  imported  seeds. 

The  seeds  are  prepaied,  saved,  sown,  and  managed,  in 
ail  respects,  similar  to  the  Mazzards,  and  are  fit  for  trans- 


132  THE    NURSERY. 

ferring  to  the  nursery  rows  at  the  end  of  the  first  season's 
growth. 

The  common  Red  Pie  cherry,  and  the  Small  Morello, 
make  very  good  stocks  for  dwarf  trees  of  the  Duke  and 
Morello  classes ;  but  the  Hearts  and  Bigarreaiis  do  not 
take  well  on  them.  These  are  raised  from  seed  in  the 
same  way  as  the  Mazzards  and  Mahalebs.  I  observe  that 
Western  fruit  growers  are  now  recommending  this  stock 
in  preference  to  all  others  for  that  climate,  on  account  of 
its  hardiness.  I  do  not  tiiink,  however,  that  it  will  be 
used  as  a  stock  to  any  great  extent. 

Preparing  axd  Saving  the  Seeds. — The  fruit  is  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  tree  until  thoroughly  ripe.  It  is  then 
shaken  or  picked  off",  and  put  into  tubs,  where  the  pulp  is 
washed  off"  until  the  stones  are  perfectly  clean.  They 
are  then  spread  out  on  boards,  and  turned  over  occasion- 
ally until  dry,  when  they  are  put  away  in  boxes,  mixed 
with  sand  very  slightly  moist.  A  layer  of  sand  is  spread 
in  the  bottom  of  tlie  box,  then  a  thin  layer  of  the  stones  ; 
next  a  layer  of  sand,  and  so  on  until  the  box  is  full.  The 
boxes  are  secured  against  vermin,  and  put  away  in  a  cool, 
dry  place,  until  needed  for  planting.  If  not  planted  in 
the  fall,  they  may  be  \vintered  in  a  cellar,  or  out  of  doors, 
protected  from  rain  by  boards  or  other  covering. 

When  to  Plant. — If  circumstances  were  favoi-able,  all 
seeds  would  be  better  planted  in  the  fall,  or  immediately 
after  their  maturity.  Nature,  in  her  course,  indicates 
this  to  be  a  general  law ;  but  in  cultivation,  this  must  de- 
pend on  circumstances.  The  ground  may  not  be  in  readi- 
ness. It  may  be  so  wet  and  heavy,  that  seeds  would  be 
so  saturated  with  moisture  during  the  winter  as  to  lose 
their  vitality,  or  the  ground  might  become  so  beaten 
down  and  compact  with  fall,  winter,  and  early  spring 
rains,  as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  for  the  young  plants 
to  make  their  way  through  it.  All  these  things  are  to  be 
considered  in  deciding  the  proper  time  to  sow  seeds.     If 


PROPAGATION    OF   STOCKS.  133 

the  soil  be  very  light  and  porous,  cherry  seeds  may  be 
sown  as  soon  as  gathered  ;  if  the  contrary,  it  should  be 
deferred  until  spring  ;  but  they  germinate  early,  and  at  a 
low  temperature,  so  that  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them 
pretty  dry  and  cool,  and  get  them  into  the  ground  at  the 
earliest  practicable  moment.  We  find  it  quite  difficult  to 
keep  them  properly,  and  yet  prevent  them  from  germi- 
nating before  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  receive  them. 

Hoto  to  Plunt. — For  cherry  seeds  the  ground  should  be 
lights  in  a  good,  fertile  state,  but  not  strongly  manured. 
The  seeds  are  sown  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  apple 
and  pear  seeds;  and  so  thin  as  to  give  each  plant  space  to 
grow  in,  without  being  crowded  by  others.  In  this  way, 
and  with  clean  summer  culture,  the  stocks  will  all  be 
large  enough,  at  the  end  of  the  first  season's  growth,  to  be 
taken  up  and  prepared  for  planting  in  nurseiy  rows  the 
following  spring. 

4th.  Storks  for  the  Peach. — As  a  general  thing,  the 
peach  is  worked  on  its  own  stocks  in  this  country.  The 
stones  should  be  stratified  during  the  winter,  by  being 
placed  in  boxes,  with  alternate  layers  of  sand,  or  light 
earth,  and  be  kept  in  a  situation  exposed  to  the  frost ; 
unless  this  is  done,  they  will  not  germinate  the  following 
spring ;  they  require  more  moisture  and  exposure  to  open 
their  hard  shells,  and  induce  germination,  than  any  other 
fruit  seeds.  They  should  be  examined  a  week  or  two 
before  planting  time,  and  if  they  exhibit  no  signs  of  vege- 
tation, more  moisture  should  be  given  them;  if  they  have 
been  kept  dry  for  a  month  or  two  before  being  stratified, 
they  may  i-equire  to  be  cracked.  Nurserymen  have  an 
instrument  for  this  purpose,  resembling  nut-craekers, 
which  operates  with  great  rapidity.  When  cracked, 
they  may  be  mixed  with  moist  earth,  and  germinated  in 
a  warm  place.  The  growth  of  every  one  so  germinated 
can  be  depended  on,  and  the  rows  will  be  regular.  As 
the  seeds  are  planted  where  the  trees  remain  until  trans- 


1S4  THE   NtTRSHRY. 

ferred  to  the  garden  or  orchard,  it  is  a  very  orood  plan  to 
nip  oif  the  point  of  the  young  root  protnided  from  the 
seed ;  this  makes  it  ramify,  so  that,  wlien  taken  up,  the 
trees  have  fine  branched  and  fibrous  roots,  instead  of 
long  tap-roots,  as  is  very  generally  the  case. 

Planting. — The  seeds  should  be  put  in  the  ground  as 
soon  in  the  spring  as  it  is  in  a  fit  state  to  be  worked,  or  as 
soon  thereafter  as  possible.  A  line  is  stretched,  and  holes 
made  with  a  dibble  to  receive  the  seed  ;  it  should  be  put 
in  with  the  root  downwards,  and  be  covered  not  over  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  deep. 

Plum  Stocks  are  used  for  the  peach  in  soils  of  a  stiff, 
adhesive  character,  in  which  the  peach  does  not  succeed. 
In  England,  the  peach  is  worked  almost  exclusively  on 
the  plum,  as  it  suits  their  moist  climate  and  soil  better. 
In  France,  the  hard-shell  almond  is  used  almost  exclusively 
on  dry,  and  the  plum  on  damp  soils.  Almond  stocks  are 
raised  in  the  snme  way  as  the  pench. 

Pwarf  Peach-Trees  are  produced  by  working  on  the 
same  stocks  recommended  fo]-  dwarfing  the  plum.  Some 
time  ago,  a  French  journal  gave  a  very  interesting  account 
of  experiments  made  in  dwarfing  the  peach  and  plum,  by 
a  Dr.  Bretonneau,  of  Tours,  France.  He  had  succeeded 
in  producing  A^ery  pretty  dwarf  plum  and  peach-trees  on 
a  dwarf  plum,  indigenous  to  this  c.onntvy  [PriinHS  pumila). 
He  exhibited  beautiful  prolific  dwarf  trees  of  the  Green 
Gage  plum  on  the  sloe,  and  was  making  farther  experi- 
ments with  the  dwarf  almond  as  a  stock  for  peaches. 

These  subjects  are  all  worthy  the  attention  of  those  who 
have  the  leisure  for  experiments.  The  art  of  growing  a 
large  collection  of  fruits  on  a  small  spot  of  ground  is  of 
great  importance  to  curious  and  tasteful  people  living  in 
towns  and  villages. 

Stocks  for  the  Apricot  and  Nectarine. — Everything 
that  has  been  said  of  peach  stocks  applies,  with  equas! 
force  and  propriety,  to  these  two  trees. 


PROPAGATION    OF    STOCKS.  135 

5th.  Stocks  for  the  Plum. — It  is  difficult,  in  this  country, 
to  get  good  plum  stocks.  If  seeds  bo  taken  promiscu- 
ously from  any  variety  that  is  to  he  had,  as  is  done  with 
most  otlier  trees,  the  probability  is  that,  of  the  seedlings, 
not  one  in  500  will  be  suitable  for  a  stock.  I  hare  seen 
bushels  of  seeds  planted  tliat  were  said  to  have  been  col- 
lected from  strong  growing  trees ;  but  out  of  the  tens  of 
thousands  of  seedlings  produced  from  them,  not  100  were 
ever  worked,  or  fit  to  be.  It  is  not  only  necessary  to  ob- 
tain seeds  from  vigorous-growing,  health)^  trees,  but  from 
a  species  or  variety  that  reproduces  itself  from  seed. 

The  Horse  Plum,  an  oval,  pmple,  freestone  sort,  with 
vigorous  downy  shoots,  reproduces  itself  from  seed,  and 
makes  good  stocks.  On  a  suitable,  well-prepared  soil,  its 
seedlings  often  attain  two  feet  or  more  in  height  in  one 
season,  and  are  then  fit  for  the  nui-sery  rows.  They  re- 
quire a  rich,  substantial  soil,  prepared  as  recommended 
for  pear  seeds.  Other  vigorous  sorts  have  been  recom- 
mended in  various  ])arts  of  the  country,  but,  on  trial, 
they  have  been  found  quite  inferioi-  to  the  horse  plum, 
and,  as  a  general  thing,  worthless.  The  "  black-knot,"  a 
fungus  which  infests  the  plum,  is  now  so  prevalent  in  this 
country,  that  we  regard  it  as  unsafe  to  take  seeds  pro- 
miscuously gathered ;  hence  we  now  import  our  plum 
stocks  from  Europe,  whore  this  disease  does  not  exist.  It 
is  doubtful,  however,  whether  the  seed  will  inherit  the 
disease,  but  it  is  well  to  he  on  the  safe  side. 

Tlie  Ca?iad((,  or  Wild  Plum,  which  abounds  in  Ohio, 
Michigan,  and  other  Western  States,  is  a  distinct  species, 
and  reproduces  itself  from  seed.  Some  of  the  seed- 
lings grow  extremely  rapid,  making  fine  stocks,  in  one 
year,  on  any  good  soil.  They  contiinie  in  a  thrifty,  grow- 
ing state  until  late  in  the  autumn  ;  but  they  should  not 
be  woiked  above  the  ground  in  the  usual  way,  as  their 
growth  does  not  keep  pace  with  the  species  to  which  most 
of  our  cultivated  sorts  belong.     The  best  way  to  manage 


Ido  THE   NURSERY. 

them  is  to  take  the  yearling  seedlings,  whip-graft  them 
on  the  collar,  and  set  them  out  at  once  in  the  nursery 
rows ;  they  will  make  good  trees  for  planting  out  in  three 
years.  The  stock  is  all  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
and,  in  time,  the  graft  sends  out  roots,  and  becomes,  in  a 
great  measure,  independent  of  the  stock.  Where  the 
seedlings  are  not  large  enough  for  grafting  the  first  sea- 
son, they  may  be  set  out  in  the  nursery,  and  allowed  to 
grow  one  season,  and  then  the  earth  can  be  removed  from 
the  collar  until  the  graft  is  inserted,  and  then  drawn  np. 
This  we  find,  by  later  experience,  the  better  method,  and 
practice  it  exclusively.  To  procure  strong  stocks  for 
standard  trees,  of  weak-growing  sorts,  like  the  Green 
Gage,  such  thrifty  varieties  as  the  Imperial  Gage  and 
Smith's  Orleans  may  be  grafted  on  this  native  species, 
and  in  two  or  three  years  they  will  make  stocks  strong 
enough  for  any  purpose.  The  French  use  several  natural 
species  that  are  produced  from  seed  —  the  St.  Julien, 
large  and  small  (Brussels  of  the  English),  and  the  Damas 
oioir,  large  and  small.  The  first  is  generally  used  for 
stocks  for  api-icots  and  peaches  as  well  as  plums.  We 
find  none  of  these  superior  in  vigor  to  the  hoi'se  plum, 
but  they  are  worked  more  successfully.  In  England,  the 
Brussels,  J^rompton,  and  3Iuscle  stocks  are  used,  propa- 
gated from  both  seeds  and  layers.  For  small-sized  gar- 
den trees,  either  dwarf  standards  or  pyramids,  the  cherry 
plum,  "  Myrobolan  "  of  the  French  catalogues,  makes  a 
very  good  stock. 

It  is  a  natural  species,  and  can,  thei-efore,  be  produced 
true  from  seed.  It  maintains  a  vigorous  growth  all  sum- 
mer, and  may  be  worked  in  July,  August,  or  September. 
It  may  also  be  propagated  from  layers. 

The  Sloe  is  also  used  to  some  extent  where  very  small 
trees  are  wanted  ;  and  we  have  no  doubt  some  native  spe- 
cies, as,  for  instance,  the  Beach  and  Chickasaw  plums,  which 
are  small  trees,  will  make  good  dwarf  stocks.     Handsome 


TRAKSPLAXTING   STOCKS.  137 

Bmall-sized  garden  trees  may  be  raised  on  the  smaller 
kinds  of  the  Canada  Plum.  The  first  year's  growth,  and 
even  the  second,  is  quite  vigorous  on  them ;  but  after 
that  the  vigor  diminishes,  and  the  trees  become  quite 
prolific.  This  and  the  Cherry  Plum  are  principal  stocks 
for  dwarfing. 

Plums  for  seeds  should  ripen  well  on  the  tree ;  they  are 
then  gathered,  the  pulp  washed  off,  and  the  seeds  dried 
and  put  away  in  boxes  of  sand,  in  alternate  layers,  as 
recommended  for  cherries.  They  may  be  sowed  in  fall  or 
spring,  as  circumstances,  already  mentioned,  will  admit. 

Nearly  all  plums  used  for  stocks  may  be  propagated  by 
layers.  Mother  plants,  or  stools,  are  planted  out  and  cut 
back  as  recommended  for  Paradise,  etc.;  the  shoots  of  the 
previous  season's  growth  are  pegged  down  flat  in  the 
spring,  and  two  inches  of  earth  drawn  over  them.  Every 
bud  on  these  layers  will  ])roduce  a  shoot  that,  generally, 
will  be  well  enough  rooted  in  the  fiill  to  be  separated  from 
the  stool,  and  planted  out  into  nursery  rows  the  following 
spring.  These  layered  shoots  are  cut  off  close  to  the  old 
I")lant,  and  tiie  upright  shoots  produced  during  the  pre- 
vious season  may  be  again  ]>egged  down. 

The  stools,  or  mother  plants,  managed  in  this  way,  re- 
quire the  best  treatment  to  maintain  their  vigor,  that  a 
supply  of  strong  shoots  may  be  produced  every  season  fit 
to  lay  down  in  the  spring.  Weak,  slender  shoots,  unfit 
to  layer,  should  be  cut  out  early  in  the  season,  to  aid  the 
growth  of  those  intended  for  use. 

Sectiox  3. — Transplanthstg  Stocks. 

This  comprehends  three  separate  operations  —  taking 
«/jo,  dressing  or  />r?//imr/,  and  replanting ;  but  before 
touching  on  the  details  of  these  operations,  it  may  be  well 
to  consider 

1st.  The  age  at  which  Stocks  should  be  transplanted. — ■ 
On  this  point  there  seems  to  be  a  diversity  of  opinion. 


138  THE    XURSERT. 

The  very  general  one  is,  that  they  shonld  romaui  where 
they  have  been  propagated  until  they  ai"e  large  enough  to 
he  worked ;  a  great  many  plans  are,  therefore,  suggested 
for  wintering  seedlings,  and  especially  the  pear.  The  ex- 
perience of  the  best  cultivators  everywhere  is,  that  seed- 
ling stocks  in  general  should  be  transplanted  when  one 
year  old.  It  may  be  urged  against  this  that  some  seed- 
lings are  so  smal  when  one  year  old,  as  not  to  be  worth 
transplanting ;  so  feeble,  that  more  care  and  culture  would 
be  required,  before  they  could  be  worked,  than  they  are 
worth.  In  reply,  it  can  only  be  said  tiiat  such  feeble  pro- 
ductions are  only  fit  to  be  thrown  away;  because  the  seeds 
must  have  been  defective,  or  the  soil  and  culture  bad ; 
and  stocks  raised  from  poor  seeds,  or  stunted  by  bad  soil 
and  culture,  Avill  never  make  sound,  healthy,  vigorous,  nor 
long-lived  trees.  There  may  be  some  exceptions  to  this, 
but  the  rule  will  generally  hold  good. 

Wiien  seedlings  rem;un  longer  than  one  year  in  the  seed- 
bed, they  grow  up  slender  and  weak ;  one  more  vigorous 
than  its  neighbors  will  ruin  all  around  it.  Then  the  roots 
do  not  ramify,  but  continue  to  lengthen,  without  forming 
laterals  or  fibi-es  ;  arnd  when  removed,  and  reduced  to  the 
necessary  dimensions,  they  receive  a  severe  check;  but  at 
one  year  the  check  is  very  light;  they  at  once  form  lateral 
roots,  and  instead  of  being  drawn  up  tall  and  slender,  they 
become  stout  and  well-proportioned.  The  best  ]>ear-grow- 
ers  in  Europe,  and  even  in  this  country,  would  scarcely 
take,  as  a  gift,  two-year  seedling  pears  from  the  seed-bed, 
unless  in  case  of  absohxte  necessity. 

The  proper  plan  is  to  take  up  all  seedling  storks,  and  all 
layers  sufficiently  rooted  to  bear  separation  from  the  stool, 
and  all  cuttings  that  stand  close,  at  one  year  old,  and  sort 
and  arrange  into  separate  classes,  in  this  way :  in  one  class 
put  the  strongest,  those  fit  for  immediate  use,  either  to  be 
grafted  on  the  root,  or  set  in  nursery  rows,  and  be  budded 
the  summer  following ;  in  another  class,  put  such  as  may 


TRANSPr-ANTINC   STOCKS.  139 

require  to  stand  one  year  in  the  nursery  rows,  to  be  fit  for 
working ;  and  in  the  third  class,  such  as  are  too  weak  to  be 
put  in  the  nursery  I'ows,  but  will  require  to  bj  "  bedded 
out;"  that  is,  set  closely  in  beds  by  themselves,  where  they 
can  remain  for  one  or  two  years,  until  they  are  large  and 
strong  enough  for  root  grafting  or  for  the  nursery  rows. 
Unless  in  the  case  of  stocks  scarce  and  difficult  to  procure, 
this  third  class  had  better  be  thrown  away  at  once;  as  it 
will  cost  as  much  to  nurse  them  as  to  raise  fine  stocks 
from  the  seed. 

2d.  Time  to  take  up. — Tliere  is  but  one  proper  time  to 
take  up  all  seedlings  and  rooted  layers  for  stocks,  and  that 
is  the  fall;  and  for  several  reasons.  The  first  is,  they 
are  all  liable  to  injury  by  the  frosts  of  winter ;  seedlings 
have  no  side  roots  to  hold  them  in  the  ground,  and  layers 
are  near  the  surface,  so  that  the  freezing  and  thawing 
draw  tliem  up;  the  roots  are  thus  exposed,  and  seriously 
injured.  The  second  is,  they  can  be  dressed  during  the 
winter  in  the  cellar,  and  be  ready  for  planting  in  the  spring. 
When  taken  uj),  they  can  be  laid  closely  in  by  the  roots 
in  the  soil,  in  a  diy  place,  and  covered  over  so  as  to 
exclude  frost.  When  out-door  work  is  over,  they  can  be 
uncovereil,  taken  into  the  cellar  and  dressed,  and  care- 
fully laid  in  again  by  the  roots,  in  the  same  place,  which 
sliould,  of  course,  in  the  mean  time,  be  protected  from 
frost.  The  third  reason  is,  that  when  seedlings  are  taken 
np  in  the  fall,  the  ground  can  bo  prepared  fir  another 
crop;  and  this  is  of  considerable  inn)ortance.  Tn  the 
case  of  laye'-s,  the  stools  or  mother  jilants  can  be  mainired, 
dressed,  and  put  in  order  for  another  season'r,  growth; 
and  this,  also,  is  important.  Such  are  some  of  the  ad- 
vantages, or,  in  f  ict,  the  necessities  of  taking  up  stocks  iu 
the  fall.  In  the  case  of  the  quince,  however,  it  frequently 
occurs  that,  when  the  layers  have  been  removed  in  the 
fall,  a  severe  winter  kills  the  stool  plants,  nnb's«  well  pro- 
tected with  a  coverinir  of  earth. 


140  THE   KTRSERY. 

3(1.  Uov)  to  take  up. — Seedlings  are  very  easily  taken 
up,  in  two  Avays,  without  in  the  least  mutilating  the 
i-oots.  If  one  person  does  the  work,  he  should  begin  at 
one  end  of  tlie  row,  and,  with  a  common  spade,  or,  which 
is  better,-  one  with  three  strong  prongs,  a  foot  long  and 
an  inch  and  a  half  wide,  dig  under  the  plants  without 
cutting  the  roots,  and,  as  fast  as  they  are  loosened  below, 
pull  them  out ;  and  in  this  way  proceed.  Another  and 
quicker  way  i-;,  for  two  men  to  loosen  the  plants,  each  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  row,  inserting  a  forked  spade  as 
deep  as  the  roots  go,  while  another  follows  and  pulls 
out  the  plants.  When  the  groimd  is  quite  soft,  this  way 
answers  very  well ;  but  if  diy,  or  hard,  the  first  is  better. 

In  nurseries  where  very  large  quantities  of  seedlings 
are  to  be  taken  up  at  once,  a  "  Tree-digger  "  (see  Imple- 
ments), drawn  by  horses,  is  used.  The  "digger"  passes 
under  the  row  afc  a  depth  sufficient  to  avoid  injury  to  the 
roots,  and  loosens  them  so  that  they  can  be  readily  pulled, 
either  the  whole,  or  a  part. 

Layers  require  more  care  and  caution.  A  trench  must 
be  opened  all  around  the  layered  branches,  deep  enough 
to  go  quite  below  the  roots,  and  in  an  oblique  manner,  so 
as  to  undermine  them.  "Where  the  branches  are  pegged 
down,  the  i»egs  must  be  taken  out,  and  the  layer  is  then 
separated  between  the  rooted  part  and  the  stool,  and 
gently  taken  from  the  earth.  Especial  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  split  those  that  have  been  layered  by  incision  ; 
their  removal  must  be  done  slowly  and  cautiously. 

Mound  Layers  are  easier  separated  ;  the  earth  is  simply 
removed  from  the  base  of  the  rooted  branches,  and  thej 
are  then  separated  within  an  inch  or  so  of  the  stem. 

Layered  branches. — ^When  the  young  rooted  plants  are 
produced  from  the  eyes  of  a  buried  shoot  or  branch,  the 
pegs  are  removed,  the  whole  branch  dug  under,  and  com- 
pletely loosened  and  separated  from  the  stool ;  the  young 
plants  are  then  taken  off,  one  by  one,  close  to  their  base. 


TRANSPLANTING    STOCKS. 


141 


4th.  Pruning,  or  Dressing  Stocks. — The  ol)jects  always 
in  view,  in  performing  this  operation,  are — to  remove  in- 
jured or  broken  roots;  to  reduce  the  ta|>root,  that  it  may 

produce  laterals ; 
to  reduce  the 
stems  to  a  proper 
proportion  with 
the  roots,  and  ])ut 
them  in  a  condi- 
tion that  will  in- 
sure a  vigorous 
growth. 

Seedlings^XaVQw 
from  the  seed-bed, 
have  always  a 
long  tap-root,  with 
few  or  no  laterals  ; 
and  as  trees  with 
such  roots  are  un- 
fit for  8afc  trans- 
plantation, it  is 
necessary  to  take 
measures  to 
change  their  char- 
acter. We  there- 
fore remove  the 
small  tapering 
jiortiou  of  the 
root,  as  at  fig.  80, 
A,  and  this  in- 
sures the  j)roduc- 
tion  of  lateral  or 
spreadmg  roots, 
near  the  surface 
cially,  are  inclined 
lan  to  sjiread  ;  and 


and  87.— SEEDLING   stocks  and 

CUTTINGS. 

Fig.  86,  a  Beedliiig  stock,  one  year's  growth,  as  it 
comes  from  the  seed-bed ;  the  line  at  A  shows  the 
shortening  of  the  tap-root;  that  at  J5,  the  shortening 
of  the  stem  before  replanting.  Fig.  87,  a  quince  cut- 
ting;  the  cross  lines  on  the  stem  and  roots  indicate 
the  pruning  before  replanting. 

of  the   ground.     The  pear  roots,   espe 
more  to  descend  in   a   straiccht   line  tl 


142  ■  THE   NUKSERY. 

unless  they  are  well  cut  back  when  young,  they  are 
always  difficult  to  transplant  safely  afterwards.  Roots 
that  descend  like  the  prongs  of  a  fork  are  usually  desti- 
tute of  fibres,  wliilst  those  that  spread  out  horizontally, 
or  near  the  surface,  are  well  furnished  with  fibres,  that 
not  only  make  trees  easily  transplanted,  but  inclined 
to  early  fruitfulness.  This  operation  on  the  roots,  it  is 
obvious,  destroys  the  natural  balance  or  proj^ortion  that 
existed  between  them  and  the  tops.  Hence  the 
necessity  for  shortening  the  stem  in  a  corresponding 
manner.  But  even  if  the  roots  were  not  shortened, 
the  stems  should  be,  in  order  to  obtain  a  vigorous 
growth.  The  very  removal  of  the  i>1ant  lessens  the  power 
of  the  roots  to  absorb  and  convey  nutriment ;  and  on  this 
account,  if  no  other,  the  stem  should  be  reduced  by  way 
of  regulating  the  supply  and  demand.  We  sometimes 
see  young  stocks  planted  out  without  any  shortening  of 
the  stem;  and  the  result  is,  they  scarcely  make  any  growth 
the  first  season — the  roots  are  barely  able  to  absorb 
enough  to  keep  them  alive.  If  one-half  the  stem  had 
been  cut  away,  the  remaining  buds  would  have  received 
such  a  supply  of  food  as  wouLl  have  produced  a  vigorous 
growth.  It  is  a  pretty  good  rule,  therefore,  to  reduce  the 
stems  of  seedlings  one-third  to  one-half,  as  at  J3  O,  fig. 
86.  But  there  are  exceptions  to  tliis.  For  instance,  a 
stock  with  a  very  large  and  strong  root,  and  a  short, 
stout,  close-jointed  stem,  well  matured,  and  furnished  Avith 
plump,  prominent  buds,  requires  very  little,  if  any,  short- 
ening of  the  stem  ;  and  again,  others  are  just  the  reverse 
— tall,  slender,  and  feeble,  having  been  suffocated  in  the^ 
seed-bed.  Such  as  these  require  to  be  shortened  more 
than  half,  perhaps  two-thirds. 

Layers,  or  Cuttings  (fig.  87),  are  in  a  different  situation 
from  seedlings,  and  require,  therefore,  diff'erent  treatment. 
They  have  no  tap-roots,  but  masses  of  fibres ;  and  these 
fibres,  being  more  or  less  injured  by  exposure,  should  bQ 


TKANSPLANTIKG    STOCKS.  143 

cut  off,  to  make  Avay  for  new  ones.  The  shortening  of 
the  stems  depends  entirely  on  the  size  and  condition  of 
the  roots.  If  well  i-ooted,  and  the  roots  be  in  good  con- 
dition, they  may  be  left  a  foot  long ;  if  j^oorly  rooted, 
ihey  should  bs  cut  back  to  six  or  eight  inches.  This  ap- 
plies equally  to  the  layers  of  the  quince,  Paradise,  Douc'm, 
plums,  etc. 

5th.  Planting  stocks  in  the  nursery  rows  %Dhere  they 
are  to  he  hiidded. — The  first  consideration  which  this 
operation  suggests  is  the  condition  of  the  soil.  Under 
the  head  of  soils,  sufficient  has  been  said  respecting  the 
modes  of  deepening,  draining,  and  enriching ,'  and  it  is 
only  necessary  to  say  here  that,  Avhere  stocks  are  planted, 
the  soil  should  be  at  once  deep,  dry,  and  rich;  for  no 
such  thing  as  sound,  vigorous  fruit-trees  can  be  raised  on 
a  poor,  shallow,  or  wet  soil.  The  various  means  of  im- 
provement have  been  already  pointed  out  and  explained. 
It  may,  however,  be  well  to  remark  that  ground  may  be 
too  rich,  and  induce  a  rank,  watery  growth,  that  would 
either  result  in  death  at  the  final  transplanting  into  the 
garden  or  orchard,  or  in  a  very  feeble  and  sickly  growth 
after  it.  We  see  frequent  illustrations  of  this  in  the  case 
of  trees  raised  in  old,  worn-out  nurseries,  Avhere  rapid 
growth  has  been  forced  by  powerfully-stimulating  ma- 
nures, and  in  rich  alluvial  prairie  soils  and  river  bottoms. 
These  i-ank,  pithy,  soft  productions,  are  very  attractive 
to  tne  eye  ;  but  they  suffer  so  much  by  removal,  no  mat- 
ter how  well  treated,  that  they  seldom  fail  to  disappoint 
the  planter.  Manures  used  should  be  well  decomposed, 
and  incorporated  with  the  soil,  if  possible,  the  autumn 
before  planting.  A  tree  is  not  like  a  cabbage  or  lettuce. 
The  tenderness  and  succulency  of  these  constitute  their 
great  merit ;  but  the  vv'ood  of  a  tree  must  be  firm, 
short-jointed,  and  mature;  and  these  requisites  are  al- 
ways attained  by  a  moderate  and  natural,  not  a  forced^ 
growth, 


144  THE    NURSERY. 

Planting  each  species  in  the  soil  best  adapted  to  it. — 
"Where  there  are  dilFerent  characters  of  soils  in  a  nursery, 
to  be  planted  with  a  general  assortment  of  siocks,  it  is 
important  to  give  to  each  that  which  is  best  adapted  to 
its  nature ;  thus  the  pear,  apple,  and  plum  should  have 
the  richer,  deeper,  and  more  compact,  or  that  with  most 
clay.  The  plum,  in  particular,  succeeds  well  on  a  pretty 
stiff  clay.  The  cherry  and  peach  should  h:ive  the  lightest 
and  warmest.  The  quince,  the  Paradise,  and  Doucin  do 
not  require  such  a  deep  soil  as  the  pear  and  the  common 
apple  seedlings,  because  their  roots  are  fibrous,  and  always 
remain  near  the  surface  ;  but  it  must  not  be  inferred  from 
this  that  a  shallow  soil  suits  these  best. 

6th.  When  to  Plant. — In  parts  of  the  country  where 
the  winter  is  long  and  severe,  or  where  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing are  frequent,  fall  jdanting  cannot  be  successful ;  as  the 
plants,  having  no  hold  of  the  ground,  are  drawn  out  and 
injured;  and  besides,  if  the  ground  is  somewhat  clayey 
and  tenacious,  the  heavy  rains  tliat  occur  early  in  the 
spring  will  make  it  so  compact  that  air  will  not  jDenetrate 
it,  and  the  young  roots  will  form  slowly  and  feebly. 
When  neither  of  these  difficulties  is  to  be  feared,  fall 
planting  is  decidedly  preferable.  Spring  planting  should 
be  done  at  the  earliest  moment  the  condition  of  the  ground 
will  admit ;  which  is,  when  dry  enough  to  crumble  into 
fine  particles  when  turned  over  with  the  spade. 

7th.  Distance  to  Plant. — We  are  all  in  the  habit  of  plant- 
ing quite  too  closely  in  the  nursery  ;  the  consequence  is 
that  the  trees  are  not  well  proportioned.  Frequently,  the 
standards  are  as  large  at  six  feet  from  the  ground,  as  at 
the  collar ;  weak,  and  top-heavy,  so  that  sticks  have  to  be 
used  to  support  them,  even  when  four  years  old.  Pyram- 
ided trees  are  out  of  the  question  where  such  close  plant- 
ing is  practised — the  growth  is  nlways  forced  to  the  top. 
Nature  gives  us  numerous  and  striking  illustrations  of  the 
efiect  of  close  planting.     We  see,  in   a  natural  group  or 


TRAXSPr.ANTING    STOCKS.  145 

thicket,  trees  running  up  forty  or  fifty  feet,  of  an  equal  di- 
ameter, and  without  a  branch;  and  if  one  such  tree  were 
left  exposed,  by  the  removal  of  those  around  it,  the  first, 
high  wind  would  blow  it  down.  On  the  outskirts  of  this 
group  or  thicket,  or  perhaps  completely  isolated,  in  the 
center  of  a  field,  we  see  another  tree  of  the  same  species 
branched  almost  from  the  ground,  with  a  diameter  at 
the  base  twice  as  great  as  at  half  its  height,  and  tapering 
upward  with  beautiful  I'egularity,  cap-ible  of  resisting 
a  hurricane.  To  raise  stout,  well-proportioned  trees,  we 
must  give  them  plenty  of  room,  that  they  may  have  the 
advantage  of  air  all  around,  and  not  at  the  top  only. 

There  is  scarcely  a  nursery  to  be  found  in  which  the 
trees  are  not  grown  too  close — thi-ee  or  four  on  the  space 
that  one  should  occupy.  There  is,  to  be  sure,  great  ecoi\o- 
my  in  close  planting  ;  for  five  hunilred  trees  can  be  grown 
on  the  space  that  one  hundred  should  occupy,  and  with 
nearly  as  little  labor ;  but  it  would  really  be  better  for 
people  to  pay  twice  or  three  times  as  much  for  their  trees, 
if  grown  so  far  apart  that  the  air  and  light  would  have 
free  access  to  them  in  all  parts,  and  give  them  stout,  well- 
proportioned  forms.  A  reform  in  this  respect  is  much 
needed ;  but  it  cannot  be  expected  until  purchasers  be- 
come discriminating  and  intelligent  on  the  subject. 

The  distance  at  which  stocks  should  be  planted  in  the 
nursery  rows  is  governed  entirely  by  circumstances.  If 
it  is  intended  to  use  a  cultivator  between  the  rows,  they 
should  not  be  less  than  three  and  a  half  feet  ^^^rt.  If 
spade  and  hoe  culture  be  intended,  two  and  a  half  to 
three  feet  will  be  sufiicient.  Where  the  trees  are  to  be 
removed  at  the  age  of  one  year,  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows 
is  sufiicient ;  but  if  they  are  to  remain  until  two,  three,  or 
four  years,  they  should  be  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  If 
removed  at  two  years,  eighteen  inches  is  enough  ;  but 
where  standards  remain  three  or  four  years,  until  they 
have  heads  formed,  and  pyra'nids  remain  until  they  have 
7 


14G  THE    NURSERY. 

formed  two  or  three  tiers  of  lateral  branches,  two  feet,  or 
two  and  a  half,  is  little  enough.  Indeed,  when  pyramids 
remain  for  three  years',  there  should  he  a  clear  space — 
three  feet — on  all  sides.  The  usual'  nursery  practice  is, 
rows  three  and  a  half  feet  apart ;  trees  in  rows,  one  to 
one  and  a  half  feet  apart. 

Dioarf  standards  require  less  space  than  full  stand- 
ards, and  dwarf  bushes  still  less.  The  stocks  intended 
for  these  different  classes  of  trees  should  be  planted  sepa- 
rately. In  sorting  the  stocks,  at  the  time  of  dressing,  the 
larger  should  be  used  for  full  standards,  and  the  smaller 
for  low  or  dwarf  standards. 

8th.  Mode  of  Planting. — The  square  or  plot  of  grounci 
for  each  class  of  stocks  being  ready,  a  line  is  stretched 
along  one  side,  and  a  trench  opened  with  the  spade,  deep 
and  wide  enough  to  hold  the  roots;  the  plant  is  then  held 
against  the  side  of  the  trench,  next  the  line,  by  one  man, 
whilst  the  earth  is  filled  in  by  another;  when  about  half 
the  earth  is  in,  it  is  trodden  down  pretty  firmly  by  the 
foot,  and  the  remainder  filled  in.  As  buds  are  usually 
inserted  on  the  nortli  side  of  the  stocks,  they  should  in- 
cline, if  at  all,  slightly  to  the  south.  Good  pulverized 
surface  soil  should  always  bo  put  upon  the  roots,  to  induce 
the  immediate  formation  of  young  fibres.  During  the 
planting,  the  roots  must  be  carefully  guarded  from  ex- 
posure. A  few  only  should  be  taken  out  of  the  ground 
at  a  time.  When  there  are  but  few  fibrous  roots,  pud- 
dling in  thin  mud  is  useful,  otherwise  not.  Some  nursery- 
men open  the  trenches  with  a  plow  instead  of  the  spade  ; 
and  some  plant  all  kinds  of  stock  with  the  dibble.  We 
do  not  practise  either. 

Planting  Root  Grafts. — The  quickest  mode  of  plant- 
ing small  root  grafts  is  to  stretch  a  line  along  the  ground 
to  be  planted,  and,  with  a  dibble,  make  the  holes,  and 
press  the  earth  in  around  the  plantP.  This  dibble  should 
be  twfjlve  to  eighteeq  inclies  long,  about  two  inches  iu 


BUDDINti,    (iUAFTING,  ETC.  147 

diameter,  ])ointe(l  and  shod  with  iron.  Fig.  88  represents 
one  made  of  the  liandle  of  a  spade.  Figul'e  89  shows  a 
dibble,  such  as  is  sold  by  the  dealers  in  iinjilements.  It 
is  made  from  a  stick,  witli  a  natural  curve  at  one  end,  to 
conveniently  fit  the  hand,  and  is  furnislied 
at  the  other  end  with  an  iron  point.  One 
l^erson  Avill  plant  as  many  in  this  way 
as  four  could  by  opening  trendies  witli 
spades.  But  where  the  plants  are  dib- 
bled in,  the  ground  must  be  in  the  best 
condition — perfectly  dry,  and  finely  pul- 
verized. 

Treatment  of  /Storks  after  Plantinj.- 
The  principal  care  which  stocks  require  ^^^^^ 
between  the  time  they  are  planted  and  koot-  Fig.  89.^ 
the  time  they  are  budded  is  to  keep  the  ''''•'''^'-  "''''''^'=- 
groimd  about  them  clear  of  M'eeds,  and  in  a  friable, 
porous  condition  on  the  surface,  by  fi-equent  stirring.  A 
good  rule  is  to  run  the  cultivator  or  horse-hoe  through 
them  once  a  week.  The  success  of  budding  depends,  in  a 
great  measure,  on  the  condition  of  the  stocks.  They 
must  be  in  a  thrifty,  growing  state,  and  this  can  only  be 
obtained  with  good  treatment.  Having  now  considered, 
in  as  much  detail  as  seems  necessary,  the  j)ropagation  and 
transplanting  of  stocks  into  the  nursery  rows,  we  proceed 
with 

Section    4. — The    Budding,    Grafting,    and   Manage- 
ment OF  Trees  in  the  Nursery, 

The  simplest  and  cleai-est  method  of  treating  this  part 
of  the  subject,  seems  to  bo  that  of  considering,  separate- 
ly, each  year's  operations  in  succession. 

The  First  Year. — Strong  yearling  seedlings  of  the 
apple,  pear^  cherry^  and  plion,  say  one-fourth  f>f  an  inch 
and  upwards  in  diameter,  and  well-rooted  layers  of  the 


148  niK    NURSEKY. 

guinre,  Paradise,  and  Dox(cin,  of  the  same  size,  planted 
in  the  spring,  in  a  good  soil,  and  kept  under  good,  clean 
culture,  Avill,  as  a  geneial  thing,  be  in  a  fit  state  for  bud- 
ding in  July,  August,  or  September,  following.  The 
budding  may,  therefore,  be  considered  as  the  first  season's 
work.  The  details  of  this  operation  may  be  divided  for 
consideration  as  follows : 

1st.  Time  for  Budding.  2d.  Preparation  of  the 
Stocks.     3d.  Insertion  of  the  Buds.     4th.   Untying. 

Ist.  The  time  for  budding  each  species  or  class  of  fruits 
depends  upon  its  habits  of  growth.  Such  as  cease  to 
grow  early  in  the  season,  must  be  budded  early,  as  soon 
as  mature  buds  can  be  had;  because  it  can  only  be  done 
while  the  stocks  are  in  a  free,  growing  state,  full  of  sap. 
Such  as  grow  imtil  late  in  the  autumn,  must  be  budded 
late,  otherwise  the  new  layers  of  wood,  formed  after  the 
insertion  of  the  bud,  would  grow  over  and  destroy  it,  or 
the  bud  would  be  forced  into  a  premature  growth  towards 
autumn,  which,  in  fruit-trees,  should  always  be  avoided. 
The  common  sorts  of  plum  terminate  their  growth  early 
in  the  season,  and  are  therefore  budded  early,  whether 
with  plums,  peaches,  or  apricots;  at  Rochester,  usually 
about  the  last  of  July,  or  beginning  of  August.  The  na- 
tive or  Canada  plum,  and  the  Cherry  plum  (Ifyrobaian), 
grow  freely  until  late  in  the  fall,  and  may  be  budded  in 
the  latter  end  of  August  or  beginning  of  September. 
Pears  on  pear  stocks  are  usually  budded  here  in  July,  in 
anticipation  of  the  leaf-blight,  which  stops  their  growth 
Avhen  it  attacks  them.  Where  no  such  thing  as  this  is  ap- 
prehended, they  should  not  be  budded  before  the  middle 
of  August,  as  the  buds  are  not  generally  mature  until  that 
time.  Apples  on  free  stocks,  and  on  the  Paradise  and 
Doucin,  may  be  budded  as  soon  as  the  buds  are  mature, 
which  is  usually,  here,  about  the  first  to  the  middle  of  Au- 
gust. Cherries  on  free  Mazzard  stocks,  as  soon  as  buds 
are  ripe  j  here,  aboiit  the  first  of  August.   Pears  on  quince,^ 


BUDDIKG,    GRAPTIXG,    ETC.  149 

and  Cherries  o/i  3fah'(leb,  about  the  first  of  September, 
and  from  that  to  tlie  middle  of  the  month ;  as  the  quince 
and  Mahaleb  grow  late,  especially  the  latter.  Peach 
stocks  should  always  be  budded  tiie  sa'iie  season  tlie 
seeds  are  planted,  and,  as  they  grow  rapidly,  until  very 
late,  are  not  usually  budded  until  between  the  first  and 
middle  of  September.  The  budding  j)eriod  varies  in  dif- 
ferent seasons.  In  a  dry,  warm  season,  the  young  wood 
matures  earlier,  and  stocks  cease  to  grow  sooner,  and  are, 
therefore,  budded  earlier  than  in  a  cool,  moist  season,  that 
prolongs  the  groAvth  of  the  stocks  and  retards  the  ma- 
turity of  the  buds.  Stocks  growing  feebly,  require  to  be 
budded  earlier  than  those  growing  freely.  It  is  necessary 
to  keep  an  eye  to  all  these  points. 

The  destruction  of  insects  must  be  strictly  attended  to. 
An  army  of  slugs  may  devour  the  foliage  of  the  pear 
and  cherry,  and  even  the  plum,  in  a  day  or  two,  and  pre- 
vent their  being  worked  that  season.  The  aphis,  too,  fre- 
quently  appears  in  such  multitudes  as  to  check  growth. 
Dry  lime  or  ashes  thrown  on  the  slugs,  will  kill  them  ; 
and  strong  soap-su<ls,  or  tobacco  water  so  strong  as  to 
assume  the  color  of  strong  beer,  will  kill  the  aphis. 

2d.  Preparation  of  the  Stocks. — This  consists  in  re- 
moving such  lateral  shoots  from  the  stock  as  may  be 
likely  to  obstruct  the  insertion  of  the  bud.  Our  practice 
is  to  do  this  at  the  moment  of  budding,  one  person  doing 
the  work  in  advance  of  the  budders.  If  done  a  few  days 
previous,  and  several  shoots  are  removed,  it  checks  the 
growth  of  the  stocks,  and  they  do  not  work  so  well.  It 
might  answer  very  well  to  do  it  two  or  three  weeks  pre- 
vious, so  that  they  might  recover  from  the  check  before 
being  budded. 

3d.  Insertion  of  the  Bud. — Having  treated  so  fully  of 
the  manner  of  preparing  and  inserting  the  buds  in  the 
article  on  budding,  nothing  farther  need  be  said  on  these 
points  here. 


150  THE   NURSERY. 

In  free  stocks,  the  bud  should  be  inserted  within  three 
or  four  inches  of  the  ground. 

In  some  parts  of  the  West — Wisconsin,  Illinois — and 
some  other  places,  certain  rapid,  late-growing,  and  rather 
tender  varieties  are  liable  to  be  winter-killed  if  budded 
close  to  the  ground;  probably  by  the  sudden  thawing  of 
that  part,  caused  by  the  reflection  of  heat  from  the  ground. 
In  view  of  such  a  difficulty,  it  may  be  well  enough  to  bud 
sufficiently  high  to  avoid  this,  provided  a  stock  known  to 
be  perfectly  hardy  can  be  obtained  ;  but,  as  a  general  thing, 
low  budding  makes  the  best  trees.  All  dwarf  stocks 
should  be  budded  as  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground 
as  it  is  possible ;  anil  even  some  of  the  earth  may  be  re- 
moved and  put  back  when  the  budding  is  done.  The 
necessity  for  this  lies  in  the  fact  that  all  dvvaif  stocks 
should  be  wholly  below  the  ground  when  finally  planted 
out  in  the  garden  or  orchard. 

4th.  Untying  the  Buds. — In  ten  days  or  a  foitnight 
after  the  buds  aro  inserted,  they  should  be  examined,  and 
such  as  have  failed  may  be  budded  agnin  if  the  stocks 
continue  to  grow.  In  some  cases,  it  may  be  necessary, 
and  particularly  Avith  cherries,  to  loosen  the  buds  and  tie 
them  over  again  ;  as  lapid  growth  will  cause  the  string  to 
cut  the  bark  before  the  bud  has  completely  united,  or  is 
fit  to  be  untied.  This  seldom  occurs,  however  ;  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  the  strings  may  be  removed  iu  three  weeks  to 
a  month  after  the  budding ;  and  they  should  never  be 
left  on  over  the  winter,  as  moisture  lodges  around  them, 
to  the  detriment  of  the  bud.  As  soon  as  the  budding  is 
done,  the  ground  should  be  worked  over  with  the  culti- 
vator or  forked  spade.  The  first  season's  management 
of  stocks  too  small  for  budding  consists  simply  in  keep- 
ing the  soil  clean  and  mellow,  and  in  guarding  against 
the  attacks  of  insects. 

The  treatment  of  root  grafts  the  first  season  consists  in 
clearing  and  loosening  the  ground,  the  removal  of  suckers 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  151 

from  the  roots  as  fast  as  they  appear,  and  pinching  early 
any  strong  side  shoots  likely  to  weaken  the  leader. 

Secono  Year. — Where  the  buds  failed  the  previous 
season,  the  stocks  should  now  bo  whip-grafted  near  the 
surf  ice  of  the  ground.  They  will  be  but  little  behind  the 
buds,  and  will  make  nearly  as  good  trees,  if  neatly  done 
Phims  and  cherries  must  be  done  before,  or  as  soon  as  the^ 
buds  begin  to  swell  (say  in  March,  here);  pears  and  aj)- 
ples  may  be  done  later.  The  seco)id-sized  stocks,  planted 
last  season,  and  intended  to  be  budded  this,  should,  if  in  a 
feebly  growing  or  stunted  condition,  be  cut  back  to  within 
two  or  three  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This 
will  give  the  roots  new  vigor,  and  thrifty  shoots  will  be 
made,  by  budditig  time,  that  will  work  more  easily  and 
successfully  than  the  old  stock.  In  a  month  or  so  after 
being  cut  down,  all  the  shoots  but  the  strongest  one 
should  be  removed.  The  stocks  budded  last  season  are 
lieaded  down  to  within  three  or  four  inches  of  the  bud, 
just  as  the  leaves  are  beginning  to  appear ;  and  all  buds 
starting  into  growth  on  the  stock,  either  below  or  above 
them,  are  rubbed  off. 

Treatment  of  the  growing  had  consists  in  keeping  all 
«?hoots  that  appear  on  the  stock  rubbed  off.  If  side  shoots 
appear  early,  and  are  likely  to  contract  the  growth  of  the 
leader,  they  should  be  pinched  off.  Any  that  assume  a 
reclining  or  crooked  habit  should  be  tied  up  to  the  stock, 
or  to  a  support,  which  may  be  a  wooden  pole,  four  feet 
long,  sunk  a  foot  in  the  ground,  at  the  root  of  the  stock; 
both  the  stock  and  growing  shoot  should  be  fastened  to 
it  (fig.  90),  but  not  so  close  as  to  impede  the  growth. 
This  is  only  necessary  with  certain  weak,  irregular  grow- 
ing sorts.  In  August,  the  portion  of  the  stock  left  above 
the  bud,  at  the  heading  down  in  the  spring,  should  l)e  re- 
moved with  a  sloping  cut,  close  and  smooth,  as  at  A  (fig. 
90),  at  the  highest  point  of  union  between  the  bud  and 
stock.      The  new  layers  of  wood  made  after  this  time 


152 


THE   NURSERY. 


cover  the  wound  before  growth  ceases  in  the  fall.  Side 
shoots,  wlieii  they  appear,  must  he  checked,  if  too  vigor- 
ous, by  pinching  off  their  ends,  but  not  entirely  removed, 
as  they  assist  in  giving  size  and  strength  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  body  of  the  young  tree.  The  peach  almost 
invariably  produces  numerous  side  branches 
the  first  season,  and  it  is  a  very  common  but 
very  erroneous  practice  to  prune  these  all 
off  in  midsummer.  The  proper  course  is  to 
maintain  a  uniform  vigor  amongst  them  by 
pinching,  and  to  prevent  any  from  encroach- 
ing on  the  leading  shoot ;  in  this  way  we 
get  stout,  well-proportioned  trees.  This 
brings  us  to  the  end  of  the  second  year,  and 
gives  us  young  trees  of  one  year's  growth. 
Peach  trees  should  always  be  planted  out  at 
this  ago,  and  all  trees  intended  for  training 
in  particular  forms ;  but  as  this  part  of  the 
subject  will  be  considered  under  the  head 
of  "  Selection  of  Trees,''''  we  will  proceed  to 
est  the  course  of  management  for  the 
growth,      Third  Year. — We  commence  this    year 


the  cuttiiii,'  iiway     . 

of  the  stock  close  given   them- 


Fig.  90. 
A  young  budded 
tree    in 
season' 
supported     by     „ 

stake.  The  line  With  trees  oi  One  year's  growth,  and  the  nrst 
at  A  indicates  p^j^^^  jg  ^^  determine  what  form  is  to  be 
-whether  tall  or  dwarf  stand- 
to  the  bud.  arda^i^y^'^^^^^^^i  l>yshes,ov  esp(diers.    Having 

settled  these  matters,  we  have  but  to  follow  up  the  proper 
course  to  accomplish  the  desired  ends.  It  may  be  well  to 
take  each  of  these  forms  in  succession,  and  point  out  the 
necessary  management  under  various  circumstances. 

1st.  Standards. — Until  very  lately,  trees  of  all  sorts, 
and  for  every  situation,  were  grown  as  tall  standards,  with 
naked  trunks,  six,  and  even  eight  feet  high.  Indeed,  it 
appeared  as  though  an  impression  existed  amongst  people 
that  a  tree  was  not  in  reality  a  tree,  nor  worthy  of  a  place 
on  their  grounds,  if  it  had  not  this  particular  form.     Lat* 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC.  153 

terly  however,  since  fruit-tree  culture  has  become  more 
practised,  and  somewhat  better  understood,  this  impres- 
sion has  been  gradually  losing  ground,  and  in  all  parts  of 
the  country  low  trees  are  finding  advocates. 

Experience  is  beginning  to  teach  people  that,  whilst  tall 
standards  in  an  orchard  possess  the  single  advantage  of 
admitting  the  operations  of  the  plow  under  the  branches, 
low  standai-ds  are  much  more  secure  against  the  numerous 
fatal  diseases  that  attack  the  trunks,  are  much  more  ac- 
cessible for  the  performance  of  all  the  necessary  details 
of  management  and  for  the  gathering  of  the  fruit,  and 
are  less  exposed  to  damage  from  higli  winds. 

These  are  all  very  important  advantages,  certainly;  but 
the  most  important  one  is  the  safety  of  the  tree  against 
diseases  of  the  trunk.  In  all  parts  of  this  country  wo 
have  a  powerful  sun  in  summer,  and  in  winter  and  spring 
sudden  and  violent  changes  from  one  extreme  to  another; 
and  experience  has  shown  that  the  trunk  and  large 
branches,  being  fully  exposed  to  all  external  influences, 
are  generally  the  parts  first  attacked  with  disease.  Cul. 
tivators  are,  of  course,  at  liberty  to  choose  for  themselves^ 
but,  except  to  meet  the  wants  of  some  particular  circum. 
stances,  no  standard  tree  should  have  a  branchless  stem 
above  Jive  feet  in  height ;  four  is  preferable  for  all,  ex- 
cept orchards  of  common  apples  for  cider  or  stock.  Trees 
with  heads  only  four  feet  from  the  ground  are  always 
easy  of  access,  and  the  natural  spread  of  the  branches  af- 
fords a  great  protection  to  the  trunk  at  all  seasons.  Nur- 
serymen should  by  all  means  encourage,  by  precept  and 
example,  the  cultivation  of  low-headed  trees. 

Starting  with  the  yearling  trees  for  standards,  we 
examine  the  habit  of  the  variety,  whether  stout  or  slen- 
der ;  whether  branched,  as  many  varieties  are  the  fii-st 
season,  or  without  brandies.  Before  proceeding  to  the 
operation  of  cutting  down  to  increase  the  size  of  the 
trunk,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  principles  and  prac- 


154 


THE    NURSERY. 


91, 


tices  of  pruning  in  the  first  part  of  the  work.  (Part  T, 
Chapter  V.)  No  pruning  sliould  be  attempted  for  the 
attainment  of  any  special  purpose  without  liaving  first 
carefully  studied  these. 

If  slender,  and  without  side  branches,  as  in  fig. 
they  shoulil  be  cut  back  tAvelve 
to  tAventy  inches,  as  at  A; 
this  removes  the  buds  that 
Avould  push  firat,  and  retains 
the  sap  in  the  lower  parts, 
which  will  give  a  stout  body. 
The  taller  and  more  slender 
the  tree,  and  the  smaller  the 
buds,  the  farther  it  becomes 
necessary  to  cut  back.  In 
fact,  some  very  feeble-grow- 
ing sorts  must  be  cut  back 
until  within  a  foot  or  less  of 
the  base.  During  the  sum- 
mer, trees  cut  back  in  this  way 
may  produce  lateral  shoots 
on  the  greater  ])art  of  their 
length.  These  must  not  be 
pruned  off,  but  kept  in  a 
uniform  size  and  vigor  by 
pinching  any  that  threaten  to  '^^^^:^  "^ 
exceed  their  proper  bounds. 
The  shoots  immediately  below 

^1,^    1    „  1    „ 4.    V  i    I     J      biui  .4,  indicates  the  cutting  back  to 

the  loader  must  be  watched,  ,„ake  a  .tout  .ten  for  a  stamlard  ;  5 
as  they  are  always  inclined  to   and   C,  the  cuttingr    back  for  pyra- 

push  too  strongly.  f"^'  "''  ^Z  ''T^''^''  ^'  '^v""' 

*  ^  •'  linjr    back  for  dwarfs  or   espaliers. 

A    tree    thus    cut    back,  and    Fig.  93,  a  young  tree  once  cnt  back 
the     side     branches     regulated    to  form  trunk  for  a  standard. 

by  pinching,  will,  in  the  fall,  have  a  stout  body,  and  i)ro- 
sent  the  appearance  of  fig.  92.  Where  the  yearlings  are 
short   and    stout,  and    are   furnished   with   a  few   lateral 


Figs.  91  and  93. 
Fig.   91,  a    yearling   tree;   to  the 


BUDDINr,,    GRAPTI>fG,    ETC.  155 

shoots,  cutting  back  may  be  Tinuccessary.  The  largest 
of  the  side  shoots  may  be  pruned  off  wholly ;  and  the 
small  ones  left  to  retain  the  sap  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
stem,  at  least  until  midsummer,  when  new  ones  will  have 
been  produced.  There  are  certain  stout-growing,  branch- 
ing varieties  of  all  tlie  fruits  that  require  no  shortening, 
and  very  little  pruning  of  any  kind,  to  form  stout  trunks, 
wdien  not  planted  too  close. 

Dwarf  Statidards. — The  management  of  yearling  bud** 
to  produce  these,  is  similar  to  that  described  for  standards, 
varying  it  always  to  suit  the  particular  habit  of  the  spe- 
cies or  variety  ;  tall,  slender-growing  sorts  require  cutting 
back,  and  the  suppression  of  liranclies  at  the  top ;  but 
many  varieties  of  cherries  and  plums,  some  very  stout- 
growing  pears  and  apples,  and  all  apricots  and  peaches, 
may  commence  the  formation  of  heads  this  season.  The 
stem  is  cut  at  the  point  desired,  two  to  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  to  form  the  head  on  ;  and  three  or  four  of  the 
stoutest  shoots,  growing  in  opposite  directions,  are  pre- 
served, whilst  all  others,  close  to  them,  are  pinched  off 
when  two  or  three  inches  long ;  side  branches  are  allowed 
to  remain  that  season  on  the  stem  to  strengthen  it,  but 
they  are  kept  short  and  regular  by  ])inching.  In  the  fall 
these  trees  will  be  fit  for  the  final  i>lanting  out,  wliilst 
those  of  weaker  habit  will  require  another  season,  if  heads 
are  wanted. 

J*yranii<Js. — Yearling  trees,  intended  for  pyramids,  are 
cut  back  so  far  as  to  insure  tiie  production  of  vigorous 
side  branches  withhi  six  or  eight  incln'S  of  the  stock.  The 
habits  of  growth  of  the  species  and  variety  must  be  care- 
fully taken  into  account.  Some  are  disposed,  from  the 
beginning,  to  form  lateral  branches ;  and  others  require 
vigorous  measures  to  force  them  to  do  so.  As  examples, 
the  Bloodgood  pear  is  very  much  inclined  to  branch  the 
first  year,  whilst  the  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey  and  Duchess 
d'Angouleme  seldom  do  so,  unless  in  some  way  the  grow- 


156  The  IfURSERY. 

ing  point  be  checked.  So  it  is  in  cherries ;  most  of  the 
Dukes  and  Morellos  are  inclined  to  produce  laterals  the 
first  season ;  but  the  free-growing  sorts,  Hearts  and  Bi- 
garreaus,  rarely  do  so,  unless  the  point  is  checked  early  in 
the  season.  So  it  is  in  all  the  fruits,  and  therefore  no  gen- 
eral rule  can  be  given  ;  but  the  appearance  of  the  tree  indi- 
cates the  treatment  required.  Where  we  see  side  branches 
naturally  produced  the  first  season,  we  at  once  conclude 
that  the  buds  are  well  disposed  to  break,  and  the  cutting 
back  may  be  comjiaratively  light.  Where  no  side 
branches  are  produced,  we  must  be  governed  by  the 
appearance  of  the  buds  on  the  lower  part  of  the  tree, 
where  it  is  desired  to  produce  the  lower  branches ;  if  they 
be  small  and  flat,  it  will  take  close  cutting  to  arouse  them  ; 
but  if  plump  and  prominent,  less  vigorous  measures  will 
be  necessary.  In  the  case  of  short,  stout,  and  branched 
yearlings,  a  few  of  the  best  placed,  lowest,  and  strongest 
branches  are  reserved,  whilst  the  others  are  entirely  re- 
moved. We  then  shorten  the  reserved  branch^ j  accord- 
ing to  their  position,  leaving  the  lowest  tlie  longest.  The 
leading  shoot  is  shortened,  so  that  all  the  buds  left  will  be 
sure  to  push  and  form  shoots.  When  these  have  attained 
the  length  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  strongest  and  best 
placed  are  selected  for  permanent  branches,  and  the  others 
are  pinched  oif. 

Yearlings  that  have  no  side  branches  (fig.  91),  we  gen- 
erally cut  back  one-half,  as  to  B,  and,  in  many  cases,  two- 
thirds,  to  C,  in  order  to  obtain  strong  branches  near  the 
ground.  Almost  every  bud,  below  the  one  we  cut  to, 
sliould  push  ;  and  when  shoots  of  two  inches  or  so  are 
made,  we  select  two,  three,  or  such  number  as  may  be 
wanted,  of  the  strongest  and  best  situated,  to  be  reserved, 
and  pinch  the  others.  It  very  generally  happens  that  two 
or  three  buds  next  below  the  one  we  cut  to,  push  with 
such  vigor  as  to  injure  both  the  leading  shoot  above  and 
the  side  shoots  below  them.     They  must  be  watched,  and 


BUDDING,    GRAFTING,    ETC. 


157 


pinched    as  soon    as    this  disposition    becomes  ol)vious. 

Yearling  trees  managed  in  this  way  will  present,  in  the 

fall,  tlie  appearance  of  fig.  93. 

Purchasers  are  very  apt  to  favor  tall  trees  even  at  llie 

expense  of  their  forms ;  and  nurserymen,  even  those  who 
know  better,  with  a  view  to  suiting 
the  tastes  of  their  customers,  rarely 
cut  their  trees  back  sufficiently  to 
make  pyramids.  The  first  brandies 
are  seldom  less  than  t\vo  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  it  is  quite  difficult  to 
make  real  pyramids  of  such  trees  af- 
terwards ;  at  all  events,  it  incurs  a 
great  loss  of  time,  for  tlie  whole  of 
the  branches  and  half  of  the  stem 
must  be  cut  away  to  produce  the 
required  form. 

Dwarf  Bushes. — The  apple  on 
Paradise  is  generally  grown  in  this 
form — with  six  to  twelve  inches  of 
a  stem,  and  spreading  heads.  The 
Morello  cherry,  and  the  cherry,  or 
Mirabelle  plums,  and  many  kinds  of 
ig.  93,  a  two-year-old  pears,     may    be    grown     as    dwarf 

treecnt  back  once  and  in-    ^^  if     desirable.        The       StOcks 

tended  for  a  pyramid.    The  ' 

cross  lines  indicate  the  must  all  be  of  a  dwarf  character, 
second  cutting  back.  Y\^ni^,    from    which    the    Strongest 

have  been  selected  for  dwarf  standards  and  pyramids, 
will  make  very  good  bushes.  The  branches  being 
60  near  the  root,  renders  a  less  amount  of  vigor  neces- 
sary. Very  strong  yearling  plants  may  be  allowed  to 
form  heads  the  second  year,  but  such  as  are  very  slen- 
der, will  require  cutting  back  and  another  season's  growth 
before  the  head  is  allow*  d  to  form ;  and  they  will  require 
a  similar  course  of  treatment  as  has  been  recommended 
for  standards  and  dwarf  standards.     No  matter  what  the 


158  THE    NURSERY. 

character  of  the  tree  is,  a  stout  stem  is  necessary ;  and, 
although  the  measures  taken  to  obtain  this  seem  to  re- 
quire, in  some  cases,  a  loss  of  time,  still  there  is  a  gain  in 
the  end  ;  for  trees  allowed  to  foim  heads  before  the  stems 
are  amply  sufficient  to  support  them,  require  a  great  deal 
of  extra  care  after  i)lanting  out,  and  a  course  of  shorten- 
ing back,  that  oifsets  the  temporary  advantage  of  forming 
the  head  a  year  sooner.  This  holds  good  in  all  cases. 
The  mode  of  forming  the  liea<ls  of  dwarf  bushes  is  simi- 
lar to  that  described  for  standards. 

Espalier  Trees. — Tliese  have  a  few  advantages  peculiar 
to  themselves,  which  will  be  explained  under  the  head 
of  "the  selection  of  trees  for  the  garden." 

To  form  espaliers,  yearling  trees  are  usually  chosen, 
planted  in  the  place  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  cut 
back  to  within  four  or  five  buds  of  tlie  stocks,  as  at  ^, 
fig.  91 ;  these  buds  break  and  produce  shoots,  from  which 
the  strongest  are  chosen  to  form  the  arms,  and  the  others 
are  rubbed  ofi". 

The  peach  grows  so  vigorously  that,  if  the  growing 
bud  be  checked  when  a  foot  high,  it  will  produce  side 
shoots,  from  which  two  may  be  selected  from  the  main 
branches  of  the  espalier,  and  thus  a  year  will  be  saved. 
Another  way  is  to  insert  two  buds,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  stock.  Very  nice  espalier  trees  may  be  grown  in 
the  form  of  a  pyramid,  with  a  main  stem  and  lateral 
branches,  the  lowest  being  the  longest.  I  have  seen  the 
pear  grown  in  this  form  very  successfully.  Trees  for  this 
form  require  the  same  management  as  pyramids,  except 
that  the  branches  should  be  placed  opposite  on  two  sides. 
This  brings  us  to  the  end  of  the  third  year,  and  the  trees 
are  now  two  years  old  from  the  bud.  At  this  age  we 
take  it  for  granted  that  all  trees  on  dwarf  stocks  for  pyra- 
mids, dwarfs,  and  espaliers,  and  all  standards  even,  of 
the  peach,  apricot,  and  nectarine,  and,  in  most  cases,  the 
cherry  and  plum,  will  be  finally  planted  out.     Standard 


TREATMENT    OF    SOIL.  159 

pears  and  apples  are  almost  the  only  tiees  that  require  to 
be  left  longer  in  the  nursery ;  and  their  management 
during  the  third  and  fourth  years  of  their  growth,  if 
allowe<l  to  remain  so  long,  will  be  similar  to  that  de- 
scribed for  the  second.  In  the  spring,  February,  or 
March,  the  leading  shoot  is  cut  back,  in  order  to  increase 
the  stoutness  of  tlie  stem  as  it  advances  in  height ;  and, 
during  the  summer,  the  side  shoots  nre  kept  of  uniform 
length  and  vigor  by  pinching.  The  lower  side  branches 
are  removed  gradually,  every  season,  as  the  tree  becomes 
strong  enough  to  disjtense  with  them.  As  it  has  been  be- 
fore remarked,  the  cutting  back  depends  always  on  the 
natural  character  of  the  subject.  Stout,  short-jointed, 
moderate  growing  sorts,  that  itaturally  increase  in  height 
»nd  diameter  of  stem  in  proper  proportions,  will  require 
no  cutting  back.  Very  few,  however,  have  this  habit, 
fu  nearly  all  cases,  more  or  less  shortening-in,  every 
spring,  is  necessary,  until  the  stem  has  arrived  at  the 
requisite  height,  and  is  well  proportioned,  decreasing 
gradually  in  diameter  from  the  base  to  the  top. 

The  Treatment  of  the  Soil. — During  the  \\h(de  period 
the  trees  remain  in  the  nursery,  the  ground  about  them 
must  be  kept  clean  and  finely  jjulverized  on  the  surface 
by  repeated  and  continual  stirring.  Every  spring,  as  soon 
as  the  heavy  rains  are  over,  and  the  ground  is  settled  and 
dry,  the  space  between  the  rows  should  be  ploAved,  if 
they  are  far  enough  apart  to  admit  of  it.  A  small  one- 
horse  plow,  such  as  is  used  for  plowing  cornfields  (see 
implements),  is  suitable,  but  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  go 
nearer  than  six  inches  to  the  tree,  nor  so  deep  as  to  come 
in  contact  with  the  roots.  After  plowing,  the  cultivator 
may  be  run  through  once  each  way  between  the  rows, 
every  week  or  two,  and  this  will  leave  very  little  hoeing 
to  be  done.  If  the  rows  are  so  close  as  not  to  admit  the 
plow  and  cultivator,  the  forked  spade  must  be  used  in 
the  spring,  to  give  the  ground  a  thorough   stirring,  an4 


160  THE    NUKSERT. 

afterwards  the  hoe.  If  the  ground  be  naturally  adhesive, 
a  second  or  even  a  third  plowing  or  spading  may  be 
necessary  in  the  course  of  the  summer ;  for  it  must,  at  all 
times,  be  kept  in  a  loose,  porous  condition,  or  the  roots 
will  be  deprived  of  the  benefits  of  the  air  and  moisture. 
Stirring  tlie  ground  so  often  that  weeds  barely  make 
their  appearance  is  not  only  the  best  but  most  economical 
culture. 

It  need  scarcely  be  added  that,  in  using  the  plow  or 
cultivator  among  trees,  a  very  short  whiffle-tree  should 
be  used,  the  liorse  should  be  gentle  and  steady,  and  the 
plowman  both  careful  and  skillful ;  and  laborers  who  use 
the  spade  or  hoe  should  be  duly  cautioned  against  cutting 
or  bruising  the  trees  with  their  implements. 

Sectiox   5. — ^Propagatiok  and    Nursery  Culture   op 

Several    Fruit-Trees    and    Shrubs    not    usually 

Grafted  or  Budded, 

1st.  The  Grape. — During  the  List  ten  years,  the  culture 
of  hardy  grapes  has  made  great  progress  in  the  United 
States.  The  demand  for  vines  has,  consequently,  been 
very  great,  so  that  nurserymen  and  grape  growers  have 
resorted  to  every  method  of  propagation  that  skill  and 
ingenuity  could  suggest. 

I  think  it  may  be  truly  said  that  a  single  establishment 
has  produced  as  many  vines  in  one  season  as  all  the  nurce- 
ries  in  the  Union  did  twenty  years  ago. 

Grafting,  layei-ing  of  ripe  wood  and  green  wood,  long 
cuttings,  eyes,  both  of  ripe  wood  and  green  wood,  culture 
in  the  open  air  and  under  glass — some  employing  one, 
and  some  the  other,  and  some  all  of  these  combined. 

I  shall  proceed  to  describe,  briefly,  each  of  these 
methods. 

(1.)  Layering,  which  is  the  most  simple,  and  the  surest 
for  unpractised  hands.  There  are  two  modes  of  layering, 
one  of  the  ripe  wood,  and  the  other  of  the  green.     The 


THE   GRAPE.  161 

first  is  performed  by  laying  down,  in  the  spiing,  a  shoot 
or  cane  of  last  season,  s  growth,  bedding  it  in  the  ground, 
and  covering  it  two  inches  or  so  in  depth.  A  young 
plant  will  be  produced  from  every  eye,  or  joint.  In  tlie 
fall  the  cane  is  lifted,  and  the  young  plants  separated 
from  one  another  by  cutting  between  the  joints.  This 
makes  very  good  plants. 

Layering  the  Green  Wood  is  performed  by  laying 
down,  in  midsummer,  a  shoot  or  cane  of  the  current  sea- 
Bon's  growth  in  the  manner  described  in  the  article  on 
propagation,  page  87,  fig.  64. 

(2.)  Lo7ig  Cuttings. — This  is  the  common,  well-known, 
old-fasliioned  method  of  propagating  the  hardy  grapes ; 
and  is,  on  the  whole,  perhaps,  the  cheapest  and  best  in  all 
ordinary  cases.  It  is  done  in  this  way:  The  strongest, 
roundest,  and  ripest  shoots,  or  canes,  of  the  previous  sea- 
son's growth,  are  selected,  and  cut  into  pieces  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches  in  length  ;  having  two  or  three  eyes,  or 
buds,  as  in  fig.  62. 

They  are  cut  close  to  an  eye  at  the  lower  end,  tied  up 
in  bundles  of  convenient  size,  and  may  be  buried  in  sand, 
in  a  cold  cellar,  until  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  in  the 
spring,  when  they  can  be  set  in  a  trench  in  the  ground, 
exposed  to  the  south,  in  the  bundles,  lower  end  up,  and 
covered  four  to  six  inches  deep  with  earth.  Here  they 
can  remain  \intil  the  ground  is  dry  and  warm,  and  the 
weather  favorable  to  growth.  By  this  time  the  ends  will 
be  calloused,  and,  perhaps,  even  begin  to  emit  roots,  when 
they  may  be  planted. 

In  planting,  the  whole  cutting  is  buried,  leaving  the 
Tipper  eye  just  at  or  near  the  surface ;  but  the  cutting  is 
laid  obliquely,  as  in  fig.  62,  so  that  the  lower  part  will 
not  be  too  far  away  from  atmospheric  heat. 

The  summer  culture  will  consist  in  keeping  the  ground 
clean  and  mellow ;  and  if  only  one  shoot  is  allowed  to 
grow,  and  kept  tied  up,  all  the  better. 


162 


THE    NURSERY. 


Propagation  from  Eyes. —  The  propagation  of  the 
hardy  grape  from  eyes,  in  the  open  ground,  or  without 
bottom  lieat,  is  not  generally  practised,  yet,  with  most 
kinds,  it  may  be  done  with  tolerable  success.  As  in  the 
case  of  the  long  cuttings,  the  rooting  process  should  be 
commenced  before  the  eyes  are  planted  out.  This  is  done 
by  mixing  with  sand  or  earth  or  moss  in  shallow  boxes, 
and  placing  them  in  a  greenhouse,  or  in  a  irame  with  a 
glazed  sash  over  them,  for  three  or  four  weeks  before  the 
time  of  planting  out.  They  should  not  be  planted  until 
the  ground  is  warm,  and  the  weather  favorable  to  im- 
mediate growth.  The  soil  sliould  be  dry,  warm,  and  light, 
covering  about  two  inches  deep. 

In  favorable  seasons,  tolerably  good  plants  are  produced 
in  this  way,  especially  of  the  free-growing  sorts. 

The  more  common  way  of  propagating  from  eyes  is  to 
start  them  on  a  bottom  heat,  either  in  propagating  houses 
or  in  hot-beds.  In  houses,  the  bottom  heat  is  furnished 
either  by  hot  water,  circulating  in  tanks,  by  hot- water 
pipes,  or  by  warm-air  flues  of  brick  or  tile,  under  the 
bench,  in  which  the  eyes  are  i»lanted.  Any  and  all  of 
these  modes  of  supplying  bottom  lieat  answer  very  well. 

When  the  eyes  are  well  rooted,  they  are  transplanted 
into  good,  rich  soil,  either  in  another  house,  or  in  frame 
covered  with  glass,  or  into  open  borders.  Larger  and  bet- 
ter ripened  plants  will  be  produced  under  glass,  but  at  a 
much  greater  cost.  The  present  system,  however,  of 
crowding  them  so  close  together  in  glass-houses,  and  forc- 
ing their  growth,  produces  very  weak,  poor  plants,  which, 
but  for  the  present  demand  for  new  sorts,  would  be  re- 
garded as  worthless. 

Propagating  from  Eyes  of  Green  Wood.  —  This 
method  has,  of  late,  been  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
increasing  the  new  higli-priced  varieties.  When  a  grape 
is  selling  at  $2  to  $3  per  plant,  the  inducement  to  multi- 
ply it  is  very  great.     Some  people  think  that  good  plants 


THE   on  APE.  163 

cannot  be  produced  in  this  way;  but  this  is  an  error.  It 
is  true,  however,  that  very  few  good  plants  are  thus  pro- 
duced. If  only  good,  strong  wood  were  nsed,  grown  on 
vigorous  plants,  and  so  far  advanced  in  ripeness  as  to  have 
the  eyes  well  developed,  as  good  plants  can  be  grown  in 
this  way  as  from  ri{)e  wood  eyes.  But  when  weak  shoots 
or  laterals  are  used,  and  when  two  or  three  crops  of  shoots 
or  eyes  are  taken  from  the  same  plants,  by  a  forced  growth, 
the  plants  are  not  good.  No  purchaser  of  ordinary  intel- 
ligence can  b.?  deceived  with  them.  They  are  generally 
sold  on  account  of  their  cheapness,  and  those  who  buy 
them  on  that  account  should  not  complain.  My  opinion 
is,  in  regard  to  plants,  that  if  they  are  strong,  well  rooted^ 
and  well  ripened,  it  is  of  no  consequence  how  they  were 
propagated. 

In  propagating  from  green-wood  cuttings,  the  eyes  are 
prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  ripe-wood  eyes,  but  the 
leaf,  or  a  portion  of  it,  is  left  attached  to  each  one,  and 
they  must  have  a  bottom  heat  of  70°  or  80°,  or  even 
more. 

In  two  or  three  weeks  they  will  be  rooted  sufficiently 
to  bear  transplanting,  and  then  they  are  treated  as  other 
plants  in  the  same  condition  ;  usually,  however,  they  are 
kept  under  glass  until  the  end  of  the  season. 

Grafting. — In  the  case  of  new  and  rare  varieties,  graft- 
ing has  been,  and  is,  employed  Avith  gi-eat  success.  We 
have  grown  Delawares  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  high,  and  of 
unusual  thickness,  from  the  graft,  in  one  season,  under  glass. 

Very  small  pieces,  say  two  inches,  if  small  roots,  are 
used,  as  the  object  is  merely  to  furnish  a  temporary  sup- 
port to  the  eye,  until  its  own  roots  have  been  produced. 

The  root  is  cut  to  a  wedge  shape  at  the  upper  end,  and 
the  cion,  a  single  eye,  with  about  an  inch  of  wood,  is 
set  on  it  like  a  saddle,  and  tied  with  a  thread. 

The  planting  and  subsequent  treatment  is  just  the«ame 
as  for  ej^ea, 


164  THE   NTTRSERT. 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  describe,  in  detail,  all  the  opera- 
tions connected  with  the  propagation  of  the  grape,  but 
to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  several  methods,  and  the 
principles  upon  whicli  they  are  supposed  to  be  founded. 
Those  who  desire  more  explicit  and  fidl  information  may 
consult  some  of  the  special  treatises  on  the  grape,  which 
have  recently  been  published. 

The  foreign  varieties  of  the  grapfe  are  propagated  al- 
most exclusively  from  eyes  of  the  ripe  wood. 

They  are  prepared  and  planted  on  a  bottom  heat,  as 
described  for  the  hardy  sorts. 

The  eyes,  however,  are  usually  put  in  pots — a  single 
eye  in  a  3-incli  pot — when  only  a  small  number  are  to  be 
propagated,  or  several  eyes  may  be  put  in  a  large  pot 
around  the  edges.  On  a  large  scale,  the  eyes  may  be 
planted  directly  on  the  propagating  benches,  or  in  boxes 
containing  several  hundred  eyes. 

The  material  used  to  plant  them  in,  either  in  pots, 
boxes,  or  on  the  benches,  is  almost  pure  sand,  and  the 
eyes  are  inserted  so  that  the  bud  shall  be  nearly  covered. 

Here,  a  steady  temperature  of  70°  or  80°,  and  regular 
watering,  are  indispensable.  When  they  have  made  a 
growth -of  three  or  four  inches,  the  plants  can  be  shifted 
into  pots  of  good,  rich  compost,  and  replaced  on  the  bot- 
tom heat,  watered  regularly,  tied  up,  and  the  laterals 
suppressed ;  they  will  make  fine  plants  in  one  season. 
Towards  autumn,  say  after  1st  of  September,  ample  ven- 
tilation and  little  watering  should  be  given,  so  as  to  pro- 
mote the  ripening  of  the  wood. 

Wintervig  the  Young  Plants. — Young  plants  of  the 
hardy  grapes,  whether  grown  in  the  house  or  open  bor- 
der, should  be  allowed  to  stand  in  their  place  until  the 
approach  of  hard  freezing,  so  that  they  may  ripen  as  well 
as  possible. 

They  should  then  be  taken  up,  "  heeled  in,"  laid  in 
trenches  in  dry  soil,  covering  the  roots  and  stem  almost 


THE    CURRANT.  165 

to  the  top  with  earth,  and  then,  over  all,  some  leaves, 
straw,  or  evergreen  branches. 

Young  plants!  of  the  fi)reign  varieties,  grown  in  pots, 
we  nsually  winter  in  tlie  pots,  on  shelves,  in  a  cellar  free 
from  frost ;  but  they  might  be  wintered  in  the  same  way 
as  the  hardy  grapes — shaking  them  out  of  the  pots,  and 
heeling  iftiem  in. 

2d.  The  Currant. — Every  one  knows  how  to  propagate- 
this.  A  yearling  shoot,  six  inches  to  a  foot  long,  taken 
off  close  to  the  old  wood,  and  planted  half  or  two-thirds 
its  length  in  the  ground,  in  the  spring,  will  make  a 
strong,  well-rooted  plant  in  the  autumn.  To  prevent 
shoots  from  springing  up  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
the  eyes  on  tliat  part  are  cut  out,  or  they  may  be  left  the 
first  season,  and  cut  out  when  the  plants  are  rooted. 

The  buds  aid  in  the  formation  of  roots.  When  a 
variety  is  rare  and  scarce,  the  young  shoots  may  all  be 
layered  in  July,  and  they  will  make  well-rooted  plants 
in  the  falU 

3d.  Gooseberries  are  })ropagated  in  the  same  way,  and 
with  almost  equal  facility,  as  currants,  though,  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  they  do  not  grow  with  such  rapidity.  Layers 
are  the  surest,  but  they  require  to  be  one  year  in  the 
nursery  rows  after  being  separated  from  the  mother  plant, 
to  make  them  strong  enough  for  the  final  planting.  An 
inch  or  two  of  swamp  moss,  laid  over  the  surface  of  the 
ground  in  which  layers  are  made,  assists  in  retaining  the 
moisture.     This  is  applicable  to  all  kinds  of  layers. 

4th.  Straicberries  are  propagated  by  the  runners,  which 
spread  on  the  surface  of  the  giound,  in  nil  directions,  from 
the  plant,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  grow  in  the  s])ring. 
Where  a  variety  is  scarce,  and  it  is  desirable  to  multiply 
it  carefully,  these  runners  should  be  sunk  slightly  in  the 
ground,  and  pegged  down,  as  they  will  root  and  form 
plants  for  removal  much  quicker  than  if  left  to  root  in 
their  own  way.     With  good  management,  a  single  plant 


1G6  THE  NirRSKnT. 

may  produce  twenty-five  to  fifty,  and  even  one  Imndred 
in  one  season.  Plants  to  be  proj^agated  from  should  ha\  e 
al)undance  of  space,  and  a  deep,  rich  soil.  An  applica- 
tion of  liquid  maruire  will  stimulate  their  vigor,  and  in- 
crease the  number  and  strength  of  the  runners. 

The  Bush  Alpine  varieties,  which  make  no  runners,  are 
usually  propagated  by  division ;  but  it  is  much  better  to 
propagate  them  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  ripe. 

5th.  Raspherries. — The  usual  mode  of  propagating  the 
Raspberry  is  from  the  shoots,  or  canes,  called  "  suckers," 
which  are  produced  from  the  collar  and  spreading  roots 
of  the  plant.     A  crop  of  these  spring  up  every  year. 

Much  better  plants,  and  many  moi-e  of  them,  may  be 
produced  by  taking  up  the  roots,  cutting  them  into  small 
pieces,  say  an  inch  long,  and  planting  them  in  beds  of 
good,  rich,  light  soil,  witli  a  little  bottom  heat,  and  a 
glazed  sash  over  them,  until  they  have  made  a  good  start. 
They  may  then  be  transplanted  to  the  open  borders.  In 
this  way  fine  plants  are  made  in  one  season — much  better 
than  the  ordinary  suckers  from  old  plants. 

The  American  Black  Cap  family  of  raspberries  are 
propagated  from  the  tips  of  the  shoots,  whicli  are  fastened 
to  tlie  ground.  This  is  their  natural  method  of  multiply- 
ing themselves. 

The  seeds  are  washed  out  of  the  ripe  fruit  and  sowed 
at  once,  making  good  plants  the  next  season. 

6th.  Slackherries. — The  Blackberry  is  propagated  in  ex- 
actly the  same  way  as  the  raspberry,  but  the  cuttings  of 
roots  make  much  more  desirable  plants  than  the  suckers. 
Indeed,  the  latter  are  seldom  fit  to  be  planted  ;  being 
destitute  of  fibres,  they  mostly  fiil. 

7th.  Mtdherries. — The  principal  Mulberries  grown  for 
the  fruit  are  the  Black  Mulberry  {3forus  nigra) ,  and  Down- 
ing's  Everbearing,  a  seedling  of  the  3forus  multicaulis^ 
used  so  extensively  in  China  to  feed  the  silk-worm. 


BAIIBEUIUES,    CHESTNUTS,    ETC.  1 G7 

Both  can  be  propagated  from  cuttings  and  layers,  and 
by  grafting  and  inarching.  "We  usually  graft  on  roots 
of  the  Wliite  Mulberry  in  the  liouse,  as  we  do  grapes — 
put  them  in  pots  or  boxes,  and  keep  them  under  glass 
until  they  have  taken  well  and  made  a  few  inches  of 
growth,  when  they  are  planted  out  in  the  open  ground. 

8th.  Barberries. — These  are  propagated  from  seeds, 
suckers,  and  layers  in  the  sim])l('St  manner.  It  usually 
takes  layers  two  years  to  root  sufficiently  to  be  separated 
from  the  parent  plant.  New  or  rare  sorts  can  be  grafted 
on  the  common  ones  quite  easily. 

9th.  Chestimts  are  usually  grown  from  seed,  eithei-  ))lant- 
ed  in  the  fall,  as  we  always  do,  or  kept  in  sand  during 
winter,  and  planted  in  the  spring.  The  large  varieties 
of  the  Spanish  Chestnut,  or  Marron,  which  do  not  come 
true  from  seed,  can  be  grafted  on  the  others. 

10th.  Filberts  are  gi-own  from  seed,  but  the  finer  varie- 
ties are  propagated  by  suckei-s  or  layers,  or  by  grafting 
them  on  seedling  stocks.  Plants  grown  in  tlie  latter  way 
have  the  advantage  of  not  producing  suckers,  and  are, 
therefore,  more  desirable  for  the  garden.  Layering  is  the 
method  usually  employed  in  the  nurseries. 

11th.  Walnuts. — Our  native  Walnuts,  and  the  English 
Walnut,  or  Madeira  Nut,  are  usually  grown  from  seed  ; 
but  there  is  a  Dwarf  prolific  variety  of  the  English,  called 
''''  IWeparturiens,^''  which  must  be  increased  by  grafting  or 
budding  on  the  others,  and  this  is  rarely  performed  with 
any  considerable  degree  of  success  in  the  nurseries. 

12th.  Figs. — The  Fig  can  l)e  easily  propagated  from 
seeds,  layers,  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  or  green  wood,  and 
from  suckers.  As  the  more  esteemed  varieties  do  not  re- 
produce truly  from  seed,  this  method  is  seldom  employed, 
except  in  seeking  for  new  varieties.  Layering  is  a  very 
good  way.  Fruiting  branches  may  be  layered  in  pots  or 
boxes,  and  thus  fruiting  plants  be  obtained  at  once. 

Cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  taken  off  in  the  fall,  kept  in  the 


168  THE    NUKSERY. 

cellar  in  sand  during  the  winter,  and  planted  out  in  the 
spring  in  a  warm,  dry  border,  will  grow  about  as  certain- 
ly as  grape  cuttings,  if  not  more  so. 

If  planted  in  pots,  and  set  in  a  hot-bed,  or  where  they 
will  get  a  slight  bottom  heat,  they  will  come  along  more 
surely  and  rapidly.  Cuttings  of  the  green  shoots,  taken 
oflf  when  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  placed  on  a  gentle 
bottom  heat,  root  quickly. 

Section  6. — Labels  for  Nursery  Trees. 

It  is  highly  important  that  a  correct  system  for  preserv- 
ing the  names  of  varieties  be  adopted.  Our  practice  is, 
to  make  labels  of  cedar,  eighteen  inches  long,  three  inches 
wide,  and  about  an  inch  thick.  These  are  pointed 
on  one  end,  to  be  sunk  in  the  ground  eight  or  ten 
inches,  and  the  face  is  painted  white.  When  a 
variety  is  to  be  budded  or  grafted,  the  name,  or 
a  number  referring  to  a  regular  record,  is  written 
on  it,  and  it  is  put  in  the  ground  in  front  of 
the  first  tree  of  the  variety.  Besides  this,  we 
invariably  record,  in  the  nursery  book,  each  row, 
with  the  kind  or  kinds  worked  on  it,  in  the  order 
they  stand  in  the  square.  In  case  of  the  acci- 
dental loss  of  the  labels,  the  record  preserves  the 
names.  Figure  94  represents  this  kind  of  label, 
and  though  there  are  many  others  in  use,  we 
believe  this  to  be  one  of  the  simplest  and  best. 
At  the  time  of  budding  or  grafting,  we  usu- 
Fig  %i  —  ^^^y  write  the  name  on  with  pencil,  and  after  the 
LABEL  square  has  been  all  worked,  the  numbers  are 
NURSERY  iiiade  with  a  brush  and  black  paint  in  a  conspicu- 
Kows.    ous  manner. 

Section  7. — Taking  up  Trees  prom  the  Nursery. 

This  is  an  operation  that  should  be  well  understood, 
and  performed  with  the  greatest  care.     The  importanco 


TAKING  UP  TREES    FROM   THE    NITRSERY. 


169 


of  the  fibrous  roots  has  been  already  explained.  It  has 
been  shown  tliat  they  are  the  principal  absorbing:  parts  of 
the  roots,  and  when  they  are  destroyed,  the  tree  receives  a 
great  shock,  from  which  it  requires  good  treatment  and  a 
long  time  to  recover.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
character  of  roots,  some  penetrating  the  ground  to  a  great 
depth,  and  requiring  much  labor  in  the  removal,  others 
quite  fibrous  near  the  surface,  and  consequently  very 
easily  taken  up.  This  difference  is  not  owing  alone  to 
the  difierence  in  the  species,  but  to  whether  the  subjects 
have  or  have  not  been  frequently  transplanted.  The  way 
to  take  up  a  tree  properly  is  to  dig  a  trench  on  each  side, 
at  the  extremities  of  the  lateral  or  spreading  roots,  taking 
care  that  the  edge,  and  not  the  face  of  the  spade,  be  kept 
next  the  tree,  so  that  the  roots  will  not  be  cut  ofi".  When 
this  trench  is  so  deep  as  to  be  below  nil  the  lateral  roots, 
a  slight  pull,  and  a  pry  on  each  side  with  the  spade,  will 
generally  bring  out  the  tree.  If  there  be  strong  tap- 
roots, running  down  to  a  great  depth,  tliey  may  be  cut 
with  a  stroke  of  the  spade.  Laborers  Avho  have  not  been 
accustomed  to  the  work,  invariably  perform  it  badly ;  and 
it  is  difficidt  to  get  it  properly  done,  even 
by  experienced  hands.  It  is  a  work  requir- 
ing care  and  leisure,  though  it  is  usually 
performed  slovenly,  and  in  great  haste. 

Lahell'mg. — When  a  tree,  or  a  number  of 
trees,  of  any  variety  are  taken  up,  a  label, 
with  the  name  written  on  it,  should  at  once 
be  attached.  The  kind  of  label  used  in  the 
nurseries  here  is  a  piece  of  pine,  about  three 
and  a  half  inches  long,  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  wide,  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
A  neck  is  made  on  one  end  by  cutting  into  each 
edge  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  ;  a  piece  of  No.  26 
copper  wire,  about  seven  or  eight  inches  long,  is  then 
fastened  in  the  middle,  on  the  neck  of  the  label,  with 
8 


WIRED 
LABEL  FOK 
TKEES. 


170  THE    NURSERY. 

two  or  three  twists.  The  two  ends  of  the  wii-e  are 
then  placed  around  the  etetn,  or  a  branch  of  tlie  tree, 
and  are  fastened  with  a  twist  or  two.  This  kind  of 
wire  and.  label  we  find,  by  experience,  to  be  not  only  safe, 
but  more  expeilitiously  attached  than  any  other.  If  a 
little  jiaint  is  rubbed  on  just  before  being  used,  the  writ- 
inuf  will  ])e  more  legible  and  permanent,  but  it  should  be 
so  light  as  to  be  barely  perceptil)le,  else  it  will  clog  the 
pencil.  These  labels  are  now  manufactured  in  this  city 
by  machinery,  and  furnislied  to  the  nurserymen,  without 
the  wire,  at  thirty  to  forty  cents  per  thousand.  The  wire 
costs  sixty  cents  per  pound,  and  is  cut  into  lengths  with  a 
pair  of  common  shears. 

Packing. — Persons  who  are  ignorant  of  the  structure 
of  trees  never  appreciate  tlie  importance  of  packing,  and 
that  is  the  reason  why  so  many  trees  are  every  year 
destroyed  by  exposure.  It  is  not  micommon,  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  to  see  apple  trees  loa<]ed  up  on  hay-racks, 
like  so  much  brush,  Avitlioiit  a  particle  of  covering  on  any 
part  of  them,  to  travel  a  journey  of  three  or  four  Aveeks 
in  this  condition.  Of  course  it  is  utterly  impossible  that 
such  trees  can  live  or  thrive ;  and  yet  the  persons  who 
thus  conduct  their  nursery  operations  are  doing  the  most 
profitable  business.  Such  practices  are  not  only  dishonest, 
but  highly  injurious  and  disreputable  to  the  trade  ;  and 
it  is  by  no  means  fair  to  class  such  people  amongst  re- 
spectal>le  and  honorable  nurserymen. 

Purchasei-s  are  often  at  fault  in  this  matter.  Nursery- 
men have  to  buy  and.  ])ay  for  the  material  used  in  pack- 
ing. Mats  cost  one  to  two  shillings  apiece;  straw,  four 
to  five  cents  per  small  bimdle  ;  yarn,  one  to  two  shillings 
per  poimd  ;  moss,  $15  to  $20  per  cord;  and  besides,  the 
labor  of  packing,  Avhen  loell  done,  is  very  great.  It  is, 
therefore,  not  unreasonable  that  a  chai-ge  be  made ;  but 
some  people,  rather  than  pay  fifty  cents  for  packing  fifty 
trees,  would  expose  themselves  to  the  risk  of  losing  all 


TAKING    Ur    TREKS    FROM    THE    NURSERY.  17\ 

Purcliasers  shoul<l  invariably  chari^e  the  nurseryman,  to 
whom  they  send  their  onlers,  to  pucJc  bi  the  best  manner. 
Better  i>ay  one  or  even  two  cents  per  tree  for  packing 
than  lose  it,  or  injure  it  so  much  as  to  make  it  almost 
worthless. 

The  mode  of  packing  pursued  here  is  this :  Where  the 
trees  nre  packed  in  bundles,  a  number  of  ties  are  first  laid 
down,  then  a  layer  of  long  rye  straw,  three  or  four  inches 
deep;  the  trees  are  then  laid  compactly  together,  straw 
being  pLaced  among  the  tops,  to  prevent  their  being  chafed 
when  di-awn  together,  and  damp  moss  fi-om  the  swamp  is 
shaken  among  the  roots.  Wlteii  tlie  bundle  is  l)uilt,  long 
straw  is  placed  on  the  top  ns  below,  and  it  is  then  bound 
up  as  tightly  as  it  can  be  drawn.  Straw  is  then  placed 
around  the  roots  sufficiently  thick  to  exclude  the  air,  and 
then  a  bass  mat  is  sewed  on  over  tlie  straw.  If  the  bun- 
dle is  only  to  go  a  short  distance,  the  straw  can  be  so  se- 
cured around  the  roots  tliat  the  mats  may  be  dispensed 
with ;  but  if  it  has  a  long  journey  to  perform,  it  sliould 
be  matted  from  bottom  to  top,  and  sewed  witii  strong, 
tarred,  spun  yarn,  about  as  tliick  as  a  goose-quill.  Boxes 
are  more  secure  for  very  long  journeys  ;  they  ai-e  generally 
made  of  ^|^-inch  white  pine  timber.  Boxes  are  now  em- 
ployed almost  exclusively,  as  they  nre  found  to  be  cheaper 
and  safer,  and  railroads  charge  one-half  more  freight  on 
strawed  or  matted  bundles.  If  the  trees  are  composed 
of  several  varieties,  they  should  be  tied  in  small  parcels 
of  four  to  six  each,  according  to  the  size.  The  sides  and 
ends  of  the  box  should  be  well  lined  with  straw,  and  the 
roots  bedded  in  moss  and  the  tops  in  straw,  to  prevent 
chafing. 

If  the  box  be  large,  two  rows  of  cleats  are  necessary — 
one  in  tlie  middle,  and  one  in  the  top,  to  hold  the  trees  in 
their  place,  and  to  keep  the  box  from  spreading.  When 
the  box  is  nailed  up,  it  should  be  banded  both  at  the  ends 
and  middle  with  iron  hoops,  fastened  with  wrought  nails. 


172  THE    NURSERY. 

Hickory  lioops  are  sometimes  employed,  rxnd  answer  very 
well.  Packed  iu  this  way,  trees  may  go  any  distance 
with  safety.  The  season  of  the  yenr  modifies  the  mode 
of  packing.  The  roots  should  always,  for  a  long  journey, 
be  immersed  in  a  thin  mud  before  being  packed,  as  this 
excludes  the  air ;  but  in  the  fall,  this  mud  should  be  dry 
before  the  package  is  made  up,  and  the  moss  should  con- 
tain very  little  moisture.  In  a  frosty  time,  the  less  moist- 
ure there  is  about  the  roots  the  better;  but  an  abundance 
of  straw  should  be  used  to  exclude  the  air  and  frost. 

HeeUng-in. — When  trees  are  taken  up,  and  can  neither 
be  packed  nor  planted  at  once,  they  are  laid  in  by  the 
roots  in  trenches ;  the  longer  they  have  to  remain  in  this 
situation  the  better  it  should  be  performed.  Trees  are 
often  wintered  in  this  way,  and,  if  the  trenches  are  dug 
deep,  and  the  roots  well  spread  out,  and  deeply  covered, 
they  are  ])erfectly  safe.  It  should  be  done,  in  such  cases, 
with  almost  as  much  care  as  the  final  planting  of  a  tree. 
When  great  bundles  of  the  roots  are  huddled  in  together, 
and  only  three  or  four  inches  of  earth  thrown  over  them, 
both  air  and  frost  act  upon  them,  and  they  sustain  serious 
injury.  Tender  trees,  likely  to  suffer  from  tlie  freezing  of 
the  shoots,  should  be  laid  in  an  inclined,  almost  horizon- 
tal, position,  and  be  covered  with  brush,  evergreen  boughs, 
or  something  that  will  break  the  violence  of  the  wind, 
and  frost.  Straw  should  not  be  used,  ns  it  attracts  vermin. 
Some  rough  litter  or  manure  should  also  be  thrown  around 
the  roots,  and  in  this  way  the  most  tender  of  all  our  fruit 
trees  may  be  wintered  with  safety. 


V 
P^RT    III. 


THE    LAYING    OUT,   ARRANGEMENT,    AND    GENERAL 
MANAGEMENT  OF  DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  PER- 
MANENT   PLANTATIONS    OF   FRUIT-TREES, 
SELECTION  OP  TREES  AND  VARIETIES, 
AND    PRUNING    AND     CONDUCTING 
TREES  UNDER  VARIOUS  FORMS. 


CHAPTER    t 

PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS    OF    FRUIT-TREES. 
Section   1. — Thk   Different    Kinds  op    Plantatioits. 

The  different  kinds  of  plantations  may  be  classed  as 
follows  :  1st.  The  Fwinily  Orchard^  which  is  a  portion  of 
the  farm  set  apart  for  the  production  of  the  more  hardy 
and  common  fruit,  principally  apples,  for  the  use  of  the 
farm  stock  and  the  family.  2d.  The  Market,  or  Commer- 
cial Orchard,  a  large  plantation  of  the  various  species 
of  fruit-trees,  for  the  production  of  fruit  as  an  article  of 
commerce.  3d.  The  Fruit  Garden^  which,  with  the  far- 
mer, is  a  plot  of  ground  near  the  dwelling,  in  which  the 
finer  fruits,  as  pears,  peaches,  ])lums,  cherries,  apricots, 
etc,  and  all  the  small  fruits,  are  cultivated.  In  many 
cases,  and  even  in  most  cases,  it  is  a  portion  of  the  kitchen 
garden,  vrhere  the  table  or  culinary  vegetables  are 
grown.  With  the  professional  man,  the  merchant,  the 
mechanic,  and  others  who  reside  in  cities,  villages,  and 
their  suburbs,  possessing  but  small  tracts  of  land,  at  most 
but  a  few  acres,  the  fruit  garden  is  the  only  source  for 
the  supply  of  fruits  for  their  families,  and  is  usually 
planted  with  the  most  rare,  perishable,  and  valuable  sorts, 
that  cannot  so  easily  be  procured  in  market. 

The  pleasure  and  profit  derived  from  fruit  plantations, 
under  any  or  all  of  these  circumstances,  depend  upon 
the  judicious  selection  of  soil,  situation,  trees,  and  varie- 
ties, and  their  proper  arrangemerit  and  management. 
These  are  the  essential  points,  and  every  mnn  who  con- 
templates planting  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  should 
avail  himself  of  all  the  liiiht  which  experience  has  shed 
^  175 


176  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

upon  these  various  branches  of  the  subject,  before  mak- 
ing the  first  movement  towards  the  execution  of  hi8 
project. 

Section  2. — The  Okchard. 

Th-e  orchard  is  distinguished  from  the  fruit  garden  in 
this,  that  the  trees  planted  in  it  are  generally  of  the  larg- 
est size  to  which  the  species  attain  ;  they  are  grown  in 
the  natural,  or,  as  it  is  called,  standard  form,  without  any 
particular  training,  and  the  varieties  are  generally  the 
most  hardy  and  productive  of  the  species. 

1st.  The  situatio7i  of  an  orchard,  with  regard  to  expos- 
ure or  aspect,  requires  very  little  consideration  in  some 
parts  of  the  country.  Where,  as  in  Western  New  York, 
for  instance,  the  winters  are  uniform,  or  comparatively  so, 
in  temperature,  and  late  spring  frosts  do  not  prevail,  the 
main  difficulties  to  guard  against  are  the  prevailing  high 
winds  from  the  west  and  north  that  injure  the  blossoms, 
and  blow  off  the  fruit  before  it  is  mature.  If  possible,  a 
situation  should  be  chosen  where  some  natural  obstacle, 
as  a  hill,  or  a  belt  of  woods,  would  break  the  force  and 
influence  of  these  destructive  winds.  Where  no  such 
obstacle  naturally  exists,  a  belt  or  border  of  rapidly-grow- 
ing trees,  such  as  Soft  Maple,  White  Pine,  Norway 
jSpruce,  Scotch  Pine,  European  Larch,  etc.,  should  be 
planted  simultaneously  with  the  planting  of  the  orchard, 
that  they  may  grow  up  and  form  a  protection  by  the  time 
the  trees  have  come  into  bearing.  Instances  occur  every 
year  in  our  own  section  where  sheltered  orchards  bear 
full  crops,  whilst  those  fully  exposed  to  the  winds  fail 
entirely. 

In  other  sections,  as  in  some  of  the  central  and  south- 
ern counties  of  New  York,  and  in  some  parts  of  Ohio, 
Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  others  of  the  Western  as  well  as 
in  the  Southern  States,  where  late  and  fatal  spring  frosts 
prevail,  the  selection  of  a  situation  is  a  most  important 


THE    OliCHAUD,  177 

point.  In  such  localities,  an  eastern  and  southern  expos- 
ure, and  low  grounds,  are  to  be  avoided. 

John  J.  Thomas,  in  his  Fruit  Culturist,  states  that,  "  In 
the  valley  of  thj  Coshocton,  which  is  flanked  by  hills  five 
hundred  feet  high,  peach-trees  have  been  completely  killed 
to  the  ground,  but  on  one  of  the  neighboring  hills,  five 
hundred  feet  above,  and  probably  twelve  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  an  orchard,  planted  in  gootl  t^oil, 
yields  regular  crops.  In  the  town  of  Spencer,  Tioga 
County,  near  the  head  of  Cayuga  Inlet,  peaches  have  with- 
stood the  climate  and  done  well  at  an  elevation  of  seven 
hundred  feet  above  Cayuga  Lake."  Lawrence  Young,  Esq., 
Chairman  of  the  Kentucky  Fruit  Committee,  repoited  to 
the  Pomological  Convention  at  Cincinnati,  in  1850,  the 
case  of  an  orchard  in  that  State,  lying  within  the  peach 
district,  occupying  the  slopes  of  hills  of  no  great  hight, 
inclining  gently  toward  a  river,  distant  oidy  a  few  hundred 
yards.  Its  success  was  that  common  to  a  fickle,  western 
climate — a  fruit  year  and  a  failure,  or  perhaps  two  years 
of  productiveness  and  three  of  disappointnient  in  every 
five. 

Within  five  miles  of  this  oichard,  however,  is  located 
a  hill  six  hundred  feet  high,  upon  which  the  peach  crop 
has  not  failed  since  he  first  knew  it.  Numerous  other  in- 
stances are  quoted  and  the  particulars  given  with  great 
accuracy,  showing  the  eifects  of  even  very  slight  eleva- 
tions. 

Among  others,  is  an  instance  of  the  Heath  Peach  bear- 
ing a  full  crop  in  one  part  of  an  orchard,  whilst  in  another 
part,  thirty  feet  lower,  the  same  variety  bore  not  a  single 
fruit.  Multitudes  of  such  cases  might  be  collected  in  all 
parts  of  the  country  where  the  climate  is  variable,  because 
in  such  situations  vegetation  is  earlier  excited  than  in  those 
more  elevated  and  colder,  an<l  frosts  always  fall  more 
heavily  on  low  than  on  high  grounds.  Every  one  who 
has  paid  the  slightest  attention  to  the  action  of  frost  on 
8* 


178  PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

vegetation  is  aware,  tliat  even  an  elevation  of  two  or  three 
feet  of  one  portion  of  the  same  field  or  garden  above  tlie 
other  frequently  proves  a  protection  from  an  untimely  frost. 
In  a  dry  and  firm  soil,  vegetation  is  more  exempt  from 
injuries  hy  frost  than  in  a  damp,  soft,  and  spongy  soil  on 
the  same  level,  not  only  because  trees  on  such  soils  are 
more  mature  and  hardier  in  these  parts,  but  because  the 
soil  and  tlie  atmosphere  above  it  are  less  charged  with 
watery  particles  that  form  the  deposition  of  frost.  Bodies 
of  water  that  do  not  freeze  in  winter,  such  as  some  of  our 
inland  lakes,  exert  a  favorable  influence  for  a  considerable 
distance  from  their  margins  in  protecting  vegetation  from 
late  spring  and  early  autumn  frosts.  This  is  well  illus- 
trated in  Western  New  York,  along  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario.  Here,  in  the  counties  of  Wayne,  Monroe- 
Orleans,  and  Niagara,  for  a  distance  varying  from  five  to 
seven  miles  from  the  lake,  the  peach  crop  rarely  fails: 
while  farther  inland,  as  the  lake  influence  diminishes,  the 
peach  crop,  for  the  last  ten  years,  has  been,  with  occasional 
exceptions,  a  failure. 

In  some  paits  of  the  West,  as  in  Wisconsin  and  Illinois, 
the  winters  are  so  variable — during  the  day  as  mild  as 
spring,  and  in  the  night  the  mercury  falling  many  degrees 
below  zero — that  even  the  apple  and  pear  trees  in  soft, 
damp,  and  rich  soils   are  frequently  killed  to  the  ground. 

In  such  localities,  experience  has  taught  cultivators 
that  elevated,  dry,  firm,  and  moderately  rich  soil,  th:it  will 
produce  a  firm,  well-matured  growth,  is  the  only  safe- 
guard against  the  destruction  of  plantations  in  the  winter. 

In  all  localities  where  fruit  culture  has  made  any  consid- 
erable progress,  there  is  generally  experience  enough  to  be 
found,  if  carefully  sought  for  and  collected,  to  guide  begin- 
ners in  fixing  ujion  sites  for  orchards ;  and  no  man  should  ven- 
ture to  plant  without  giving  due  attention  to  the  subject, 
and  availing  himself  of  all  the  experience  of  his  neighbors; 
for  experience,  after  all,  is  the  only  truly  reliable  guide. 


TUE    ORCUAKD.  179 

2d.  TJie  Soil. — Having  treated  already  of  the  different 
characters  and  modes  of  amelioration  of  soils,  it  is  tnly 
necessary  here  to  i)oint  out  what  particular  qualities  or 
kinds  are  best  adapted  to  the  different  classes  of  fruit- 
trees,  as  far  as  experience  will  warrant  in  so  doing.  There 
are  soils  of  a  certain  texture  and  quality,  in  which,  by 
proper  management,  all  our  hardy  fruits  may  be  grown 
to  perfection ;  for  instance,  the  soil  of  our  specimen 
orchard,  wdiich  is  that  usually  termed  a  sandy  loam,  with 
a  sandy,  day  subsoil,  so  dry  that  it  can  be  worked  imme- 
diately after  a  rain  of  twenty-four  hours.  On  this  wo 
have  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  apricots,  and, 
indeed,  all  the  fruits  planted  promiscuously,  side  by  side, 
not  of  choice,  but  necessity,  and  all  these  yield  bountiful 
crops  of  the  finest  fruit.  Our  country  abounds  in  such 
soils,  and  others  somewhat  different  in  character,  bun 
equally  eligible  for  all  fruit-trees  when  well  managed. 
On  the  other  hand,  there  are  soils  wholly  unfit  for  fruit- 
trees  of  any  kind — such  are  peaty  or  mucky,  and  damp, 
cold,  and  spongy  soils.  For  an  orchard  of  apples  or 
pears,  a  dry,  deep,  substantial  soil,  between  sandy  and  a 
clayey  loam,  and  possessing  among  its  inorganic  parts  a 
considerable  portion  of  lime,  is,  according  to  all  experi- 
ence, the  best.  On  such  soils  we  find  the  greatest  and 
most  enduring  vigor  and  fertility,  the  liealthiest  and 
hardiest  trees,  and  the  fairest  and  best-flavored  fruits. 
Trees,  both  of  apples  and  pears,  planted  on  such  soils  in 
Western  New  York,  upwards  of  fifty  years  ago,  are,  at 
this  day,  in  the  very  hight  of  their  vigor  and  productive- 
ness, without  having  received  more  than  the  most  ordi- 
nary culture.  It  has  been  observed  that  apples,  grown 
on  clayey  soils,  keep  better  than  those  grown  on  light 
soils. 

The  jt)?wm  succeeds  best,  as  a  general  thing,  on  a  clayey 
loam,  rather  stiff.  The  Canada  or  native  plum,  and  Mira- 
belle,  however,  succeed  well  on  very   light   soils.      The 


180  PEKMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

cherry^  the  2)each,  ajyricot,  nectarine,  and  ahnond,  require 
a  light,  dry,  and  warm  soil.  The  best  and  most  enduring 
peacli  orcliards  are  on  dry,  sandy  loams ;  but  good 
orchards  are  raised,  with  proper  management,  on  loose, 
light  sands,  though  on  such  the  trees  are  shorter  lived, 
and  require  constant  care  in  the  way  of  dressings  of 
manure  and  compost.  There  are  two  points  to  be  ob- 
served under  all  circumstances  in  regard  to  soils.  They 
must  possess  the  inorganic  substances,  such  as  lime,  pot- 
ash, etc.,  that  constitute  a  large  portion  of  the  ashes  of 
the  wood  and  bark  of  fruit-trees,  when  burned,  and  a  siif^ 
ficient  amount  of  organic  matter — vegetable  mould,  which 
dissolves,  and  furnishes  material  for  the  formation  and 
growth  of  new  parts.  People  who  have  been  long  en- 
gaged in  the  culture  of  the  soil  can  judge  pretty  cor- 
rectly of  its  quality  by  its  appearance,  texture,  subsoil, 
and  the  character  of  the  rocks  and  stones  that  underlie 
and  prevail  in  it. 

3d.  P>-eparation  of  Soil  for  an  Orchard. — The  season 
before  planting,  the  soil  should  be  at  least  twice  plowed 
with  a  common  and  subsoil  plow,  enriched  with  suitable 
composts,  and  drained,  if  necessary. 

4th.  Inclosures. — Before  a  tree  is  planted,  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  ground  be  inclosed  with  a  fence,  sufficient 
to  protect  it  against  the  invasion  of  animals.  It  is  no 
uncommon  thing  to  hear  people  regret  that  the  cattle 
broke  into  the  orchard  and  destroyed  many  trees.  Indeed, 
it  frequently  happens  that  more  damage  is  done  in  this 
way  than,  if  duly  estimated,  would  have  fenced  the  whole 
orchard.  There  is  much  inquiry  nowadays  on  the  sub- 
ject of  fences,  and  various  plans  and  materials  are  sug- 
gested and  tried.  Live  hedges  are  unquestionably  the 
most  ornamental  and  appropriate  inclosures  for  extensive 
plantations  of  fruit-trees,  and  in  time  will,  no  doubt,  be 
generally  adopted.  Hitherto  the  failure  of  many  plants 
tried,  and  the  cost  and  difficulty  of  obtaining  others,  have 


THE   ORCHAED.  181 

retarded  their  introduction.  Experience,  however,  has  at 
length  pretty  fairly  decided  that  the  Osage  Orange  is  the 
best  for  the  West  and  South-ioest,  and  the  JiucA-thorn  for 
the  North  and  East.  The  seeds  of  both  these  plants  are 
now  easily  procured,  and  plants  of  them  may  be  obtained 
in  nurseries  from  |3  to  $5  per  1,000 ;  and  about  2,000  will 
fence  an  acre  of  ground,  setting  the  plants  twelve  inches 
apart,  in  two  rows,  six  inches  apart,  which  is  the  strong- 
est way.  A  single  row,  with  the  plants  at  six  inches 
apart,  will  make  a  good  fence,  with  proper  shearing  to 
thicken  them  at  the  bottom  ;  either  way  they  will  make 
a  beautiful  and  efficient  hedge  in  five  or  six  years.  The 
Honey-Locust  is  also  a  strong,  hardy,  rapid-growing  plant, 
and  makes  a  very  beautiful  and  efficient  hedge,  which,  in 
six  or  seven  years  from  the  planting,  will  turn  any  ani- 
mals. We  are  using  this  on  our  own  grounds  in  prefer- 
ence to  all  others. 

For  an  ornatnental  hedge,  and  screen  or  shelter,  there 
is  nothing  equal  at  the  North  to  the  Norway  Spruce  and 
Arbor  Vitce.  It  is  sometimes  objected  to  hedges  that 
they  harbor  birds;  but  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  birds 
are  the  natural  foes  of  insects,  and  never  fail  to  accom- 
plish a  vast  amount  of  labor  for  the  good  of  the  fruit 
grower,  for  which  they  ought  to  be  fully  entitled  to  a 
participation  in  his  enjoyments.  As  the  feathered  race 
are  persecuted  and  driven  away  from  our  gardens,  insects 
become  more  numerous  and  destructive  ;  at  least  this  is 
the  experience  of  most  people,  and  should  lessen,  if  not 
entirely  prevent,  the  cruel  hostility  that  is  continually 
waged  against  them.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted  that 
occasionally  certain  species  will  attack  our  fruits  in  such 
force  that  their  destruction  becomes  not  only  justifiable, 
but  necessary.  Even  the  Robin  becomes  troublesome  at 
times. 

5th.  Selection  of  Varieties  of  Fruits  for  an  Orchard. — 
This  is  a  most  important  point.     The  selection  of  varie- 


182  PEEMAXENT    PLANIATIONS. 

ties  must,  in  all  oases,  Le  made  with  reference  to  the  spe" 
eial  purposes  for  which  they  are  intended.  The  family 
orchard  of  the  farmer  we  will  suppose  to  contain  apple- 
trees  alone,  as  all  the  other  fruits  are,  or  ought  to  be, 
grown  in  the  fruit  garden.  His  selection  of  varieties 
must  he  adapted  to  his  wants  and  circumstances.  In  the 
first  i)lace,  the  number  of  his  family  must  regul:ite  the 
proportion  of  kitchen  and  table  varieties.  In  tlie  second 
place,  he  must  consider  how  many  he  will  want  for  sauce, 
how  many  for  haking  and  drying,  how  many  for  cider, 
and  how  many  for  the  dessert,  and  what  proportion  of 
siceet  and  of  acid.  These  are  all  considerations  that  de- 
pend upon  the  habits,  taste,  and  mode  of  living  of  fami- 
lies, and  for  which  no  man  can  provide  or  suggest  but 
the  planter  himself.  Then,  again,  he  must  consider  to 
what  extent  it  may  be  advantageous  to  feed  apples  to  his 
stock,  :ind  provide  for  it  accordingly. 

Witlioiit  considering  well  all  these  points,  a  man  may 
sit  down  and  select  wh:it  are  called  "the  best  varieties," 
and  yet  find  himself  badly  suited  when  they  come  to 
bear ;  for  so  it  happens  tliat  a  variety  that  may  be  best 
for  the  dessert,  will  be  exceedingly  unprofitable  for  other 
purposes.  A  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety,  of 
medium  quality,  quite  imfit  for  the  table,  may  be  infinitely 
more  advantageous  for  feeding  stock  than  a  feeble-grow- 
ing, shy-bearitig  variety,  quite  indisjiensable  for  the  des- 
sert ;  and  an  apple  may  be  excellent  for  sauce,  for  baking, 
or  drying,  and  unfit  for  the  dessert.  These  points  should 
all  l)e  duly  considered. 

The  Market  or  Commercial  Orchardisf  must  exercise 
the  same  discrimination  in  the  selection  of  his  varieties, 
adapting  tliem  to  the  mode  of  culture  he  intends  to  pur- 
sue and  tlie  market  he  intends  to  supply.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  large  cities  and  towns,  where  the 
orchardist  may  carry  his  fruit  to  market  in  a  few  hours, 
the  most  profitable  culture  will,  generally  speaking,  b« 


fSE  OUCHaRD.  183 

summer  and  early  auttinin  fruits,  or  such  as  require  to  l>e 
consumed  immediately  after  maturity,  and  are  unfit  for 
distant  transportation.  Early  apples  and  pears  only  will 
be  profitable  for  him,  because  the  autumn  and  winter  va- 
rieties can  be  sent  so  easily  from  the  most  distant  portions 
of  the  interior,  with  such  facilities  as  our  present  system 
of  railroads,  plank-roads,  canals,  and  steamboats  afford. 
Tn  addition  to  early  apples  and  pears,  his  position  gives 
him  great  advantages  for  the  profitable  culture  of  all  the 
stone  fruitfi^  c/ooseberries,  currants,  rasjyberries,  grapes, 
and  such  soft  fruits,  when  intended  to  be  disposed  of  in  a 
raw  state. 

The  market  grower  of  the  interior  will  find  his  most 
profitable  culture  to  be  principally  autumn  and  winter 
npples  andi^ears,  to  which  he  may  add  quinces,  and,  if  the 
climate  and  soil  be  favorable,  the  grape,  because  all  these 
••an  be  packed  and  transported  to  a  great  distance  with 
safety ;  and  the  comparntive  cheapness  of  his  lands  enables 
him  to  compete  advantageously  with  those  more  favora- 
bly situated  in  regard  to  market.  He  can  only  cultivate 
*.he  summer  fruits  with  a  view  to  drying  or  preserving,  or 
<br  the  supply  of  a  local  demand.  All  orchard  fruits,  in- 
tended for  profitable  orchard  culture,  should  be,  first,  in 
fegard  to  the  trees,  hardy,  vig(yrou.s,  nnd  productive.  The 
fruits  should  be  of  good  size,  fair  appearance,  good  keep- 
ers, and  of  good  quality.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  many  of  the  best  fruits  are  very  unprofitable  for 
general  market  culture.  Under  certain  circumstances 
this  may  not  be  the  case,  as,  for  example,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  such  a  city  as  London,  or  Paris,  or  even  Neto 
ITorh,  or  Boston.  A  class  of  people  is  to  be  found  in 
such  places  who  will  pay  almost  any  price  for  extra  fine 
fruits.  Where  apples  can  be  sold  for  $2  per  bushel,  pears 
at  $1  per  dozen,  grapes  at  -^1  per  pound,  and  other  fine 
fruits  in  proportion,  growers  are  warranted  in  cultivating 
very  choice  sorts,  even  if  they  be  diflicult  to  manage  and 


184  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS. 

comparatively  unproductive.  As  a  generai  thing,  how- 
ever, taking  the  markets  as  they  ai'e,  the  great  bulk  of 
consumers  preferring  fruit  of  tolerable  good  quality  and 
moderate  prices  to  the  very  best  at  twice  or  three  timea 
the  ordinary  piice,  the  most  profitable  varieties  Avill  b(? 
those  that  can  be  produced  at  the  least  expense,  provided, 
always,  that  they  be  good  ;  for  fruits  of  a  decidedly  in- 
ferior quality,  wliatever  may  be  their  other  merits,  are 
wholly  unworthy  of  cultivation  for  the  market.  Another 
thing  is  the  selection  of  varieties  that  succeed  best  in  the 
locality  where  they  are  to  be  cultivated.  A  variety  that 
succeeds  remarkably  well  in  any  particular  locality  should, 
other  things  being  nearly  equal,  be  cultivated  largely. 
The  JSTeiotoion  Pippin  apple,  for  instance,  is  a  profitable 
orchard  fruit  on  Long  Island  and  on  the  Hudson ;  but  in 
Western  New  York  no  system  of  management  would 
make  it  yield  one-fourth  as  much  net  profit  as  the  Baldwin^ 
northern  /Sj)i/,  Rhode  Island  Greening^  or  Roxbury 
Russet.  Large  plantations,  for  profit,  should  always  be 
made  up  of  well-proved  varieties,  that  have  been  tested 
in  the  locality,  or  one  similar,  in  regard  to  soil  and  situa- 
tion. A  list  of  select  varieties  will  be  given  in  a  succeed- 
ing and  separate  part  of  the  work. 

6th.  Selectio7i  of  Trees. — For  the  farmer's  orchard, 
where  the  ground  among  the  trees  is  to  be  cultivated 
mainly  with  the  plow,  and  occasionally  cropped,  stand- 
ard trees,  with  stems  four  or  five  feet  in  hight,  will  be 
the  most  eligible,  and  ought  to  be,  at  the  time  of  planting, 
three  or  four  years  old  from  the  bud  or  graft,  well  grown, 
with  stout,  straight,  well-proportioned  trunks.  Low, 
stout  trees  are  always  preferable  to  tall,  slender  ones.  In- 
experienced planters  are  generally  more  particular  about 
the  hight  than  the  diameter  of  the  trunk,  but  it  should 
be  just  the  reverse.  If  trees  are  stout,  and  have  good 
roots,  a  foot  in  hight  is  comparatively  unimportant,  un- 
less to  one  who  wishes  to  turn  cattle  into  his  orchard,  and 


THE    ORCHARD.  185 

have  the  heads  of  his  trees  at  once  out  of  their  vray.  Few- 
people,  liowever,  follow  such  a  practice.  In  very  elevated 
and  exposed  situations,  low  trees  are  to  be  preferred,  as 
the  wind  does  not  strike  them  witli  such  force  as  it  does 
the  tall  ones. 

;  7th.  Arrangement  of  the  Trees. — The  distance  between 
Hihe  trees  in  an  apple  orchard  should  be  thirty  feet  from 
tree  to  tree,  in  all  directions.  In  a  very  strong  and  deep 
soil,  where  the  trees  attain  the  largest  dze,  forty  feet  is 
not  too  much,  especially  aft«r  the  first  fifteen  or  twenty 
years.  There  is  a  great  difference  between  the  sizes  that 
different  varieties  attain,  and  also  in  tlieir  habits  of 
growth.  One  will  attain  nearly  double  the  size  of  another 
within  ten  years.  Some  ai-e  erect  in  their  habits  (as  fig 
3),  others  spreading  (as  fig.  5) ;  and  it  will  add  greatly  to 
the  symmetry  of  the  plantation  if  the  trees  of  the  same 
size  and  habit  of  growth  be  planted  together.  Varieties 
that  ripen  about  the  same  time  should  also  be  planted 
together,  as  the  maturity  can  be  more  easily  watched, 
and  the  fruit  gathered  with  much  less  inconvenience. 
The  largest  fruits,  being  most  liable  to  be  blown  off, 
should  be  placed  in  the  least  exposed  quarter. 

The  ordinary  arrangement  of  orchard  trees  is  the 
square  or  regular  form,  in  rows,  the  same  distance  apart, 
and  an  equal  distance  between  each  tree.  Thus,  in  plant- 
ing a  square  of  one  hundred  feet,  for  example,  the  trees 
to  be  twenty-five  feet  apart,  we  commence  on  one  side, 
laying  a  line  the  Avhole  length.  On  this  line  we  measure 
off  the  distances  for  the  trees,  and  place  a  stake,  indica- 
ting the  point  for  the  tree.  Thus,  in  fig.  96,  w^e  have  five 
rows  of  five  trees  each,  making  twenty-five  in  all,  and  all 
twenty-five  feet  apart.  This  is  the  simplest,  and  probably 
the  best  for  very  small  orchards.  The  better  plan  for 
large  orchards  is  what  is  called  quincunx  (fig.  97),  in 
which  the  trees  of  one  row  are  opposite  the  spaces  in  the 
next.     In  this  way,  although  the  trees  are  at  equal  dis- 


186 


PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 


tances,  there  is  a  larger  clear  area  around  each  tree.  In 
fig.  06,  the  square  form,  every  tree  stands  in  the  corner 
of  a  square,  in  the  centre  of,  and  equally  distant  from, 
four  otheis.  In  the  quincunx,  every  tree  stands  in  the 
angle  of  a  triangle  of  equal  sides,  and  in  the  centre  of, 
and  equally  distant  from,  six  others.     Thus,  in  the  latter, 


r  !  I  ^' 
[-4 V '■ 

.i^_,L._i 1 

f- ' 

»_...,..i 

'k                    \ 

>           .1 

d 

^ 

><\A 

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""^^:-""' 

'"■■■;:i^-""  i  'N 

■  ?:"'"      1      ^"-4""'' 

■'■■■■•4--'"  1  ---^ 

ic- r-r"' 

c-    ^"-4"'""    1    ^^^"^-4 

"v-f-.     I     ,A 

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/      10    20    30    40    SO 


Fig.    90.  — SQUARE    PLANTING.  Fig.    97.  —  QUINCUNX   PLANTING. 

there  is  a  greater  space  left  for  the  admission  of  light  and 
air,  and  trees  so  planted  mny  be  at  less  distance  than  in 
the  other.  The  operation  of  planting  is  more  compli- 
cated than  that  of  the  square,  the  rows  not  being  the 
same  distance  apart  as  the  trees  are  in  the  row.  The 
first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  find  the  two  measures.  Sup- 
pose, for  instance,  we  propose  to  plant  a  plot  of  ground 
one  hundred  feet  square,  and  to  have  the  trees  twenty- 
five  feet  apart  every  way,  we  make  a  triangle  of  wood, 
A,  7?,  D  (fig.  97),  each  side  of  which  is  twenty-five  feet ; 
"we  then  measure  tlie  distance  from  the  angle,  _C,  to  the 
center  of  the  opposite  side,  at  C,  and  this  gives  us  the 
distance  between  the  rows,  which  will  be  about  twenty- 
one  feet.     This  will  be  called  the  small  measure  j  and 


THE   ORCHARD.  187 

with  this  we  measure  off  on  two  sides  the  distances  for 
tlie  rows,  and  put  down  a  stake  at  each.  We  then  com- 
mence  on  the  first  row,  and  with  the  long  (twenty-five 
feet)  measure  mark  off  the  places  for  the  trees,  and  put 
down  a  stake  to  each.  The  measurements  must  be  made 
with  exactness,  in  order  to  have  the  plantation  present  a 
regular  appearance,  ns  in  fig.  97. 

8th.  /Select/'o/i.  of  Trees  for  the  Market  or  Commercial 
Orchard. — The  remarks  made  in  reference  to  the  selec- 
tion of  standard  trees  for  the  family  orchard  may  be 
applied  with  equal  proi)riety  to. these;  but  the  orchardist 
must  be  supposed  to  have  invested  a  considerable  amount 
of  capital,  and  probably  devotes  his  entire  attention  to 
his  trees,  and  depends  upon  them  for  his  support.  It  is, 
therefore,  a  great  object  with  him  to  have  early  returns 
in  the  form  of  products.  An  orchard  of  standard  apples 
will  not  produce  any  considerable  quantity  of  fruit  before 
the  eighth  or  tenth  year,  nor  pears  before  the  twelfth  or 
fifteenth  year.  In  the  mean  time  it  is  highly  desirable 
to  occupy  the  ground  amongst  the  trees  in  some  way  that 
will  at  least  bear  the  expenses  of  cultivation.  If  this 
can  be  done,  it  is  as  much  as  can  be  expected  in  the 
usual  practice  of  cultivating  root  crops.  The  most  pro- 
fitable manner  of  turning  to  account  tlie  spaces  between 
the  standard  trees  for  the  first  ten  or  twelve  years  at 
least,  is  to  ))lant  them  with  dwarf  and  pyramidal  trees,  or 
dwarf  standards,  that  will  commence  bearing  the  third  or 
fourth  year  after  planting.  This  is  the  course  pursued  by 
the  orchardists  of  Franco  and  Belgium,  where  land  is 
vahiable,  and  the  cultivators  are  compelled  to  turn  every 
inch  of  it  to  the  best  account.  Attention  has  been 
slightly  called  to  this  mode  of  management  in  this 
country,  and  a  few  persons  have  already  carried  it  into 
practice.  As  soon  as  it  comes  to  be  considered,  it  cannot 
fail  to  recommend  itself  to  those  who  are  embarking 
extensively  in  the  orchard  culture  of  fruits  for  the  market, 


188 


PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 


on  high-priced  lands.  It  is  only  surprising  that  it  should 
have  been  so  long  overlooked  by  shrewd  and  enterprising 
orchardists.  An  acre  of  land,  for  example,  planted  with 
standard  apple-trees,  at  thirty  feet  apnrt,  contains  forty- 
five  to  fifty ;  and  if  we  fill  up  the  spaces  with  dwarfs 
on  Paradise,  at  six  feet  apart,  leaving  ten  feet  clear  around 
each  standard,  we  get  in  about  five  hundred  dwarf  trees. 
These  will  bear  the  third  year,  and  during  the  next  five 
years  the  average  value  of  their  products  will  be  at 
least  twenty  to  fifty  cents  each.  We  would  plant  them 
in  such  a  way   that  the  plow  and   cultivator  could  be 


4_JL 


Fig.  98.  Fig.  99. 

Fig.  OS,  orchard  of  standard  and  dwarf  apple  trees.    Fiy.  99,  orchard  of  standard 
and  dwarf  or  pyramidal  pears. 

used  among  them,  two  dwarfs  between  each  standard,  and 
two  full  rows  between  each  row  of  standards,  as  in  fig.  98. 
In  ten  or  twelve  years  the  dwarfs  might  be  taken  out, 
and  the  entire  ground  given  to  the  standards. 

Orchards  of  standard 2^ears  maij,  in  the  same  manner, 
be  filled  up  with  dwarf  and  pyramidal  trees  on  the  quince. 


.-i^^^^i^Lfeoe 


THE   ORCHAED.  189 

Standard  pears  do  not  require  so  much  si>ace  as  apples ; 
their  branches  generally  are  more  erect.  In  this  country 
standard  pears  sliould  not  have  naked  trunks  over  three 
or  four  feet  high,  and  twenty-five  feet  apart  are  quite  suf- 
ficient ;  at  this  distance  an  acre  will  contain  about  seventy 
trees.  These,  as  a  general  tiling,  will  not  begin  to  bear 
until  the  tenth  year,  unless  artificial  means  be  resorted  to. 
Some  early-beai-iiig  sorts,  like  the  Bartlett,  may  com- 
mence bearing  much  sooner ;  but,  as  a  general  thing,  the 
crop  from  standard  pears  is  not  of  much  account  until 
the  trees  have  attained  ten  years  of  age,  or  thereabouts. 
By  putting  one  dwarf  standard  between  each,  in  the 
same  row,  and  a  row  ten  feet  apart  between  each  row  of 
standards,  as  in  fig.  99,  we  can  plant  250  dwarfs  or  pyra- 
mids, that  will  commence  bearing  the  third  year,  and  will 
be  in  full  bearing  the  fifth,  yielding  not  less,  ou  an  aver- 
age, than  $1  to  12  per  tree. 

In  selecting  varieties  of  pears  for  profitable  orchard 
culture  on  the  quince,  those  only  should  be  chosen  which 
have  been  well  proved  on  that  stock,  and  also  in  the  lo- 
cality, or  a  similar  one,  and  that  are  popular  in  market. 
Mr.  Quinn,  in  his  book  "  Pear  Culture  for  Profit,"  states 
that  the  Duchesse  d'Angoulenie  is  almost  the  only  one 
really  profitable  in  his  soil,  in  New  Jersey. 

The  following  sorts  succeed  well  on  the  quince,  and  are 
profitably  grown  here  :  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Duchesse 
d'Angoulime,  Beurre  cVAnjou,  Howell,  Josephine  de 
Malines,  Vicar  of  Winkfield,  to  which  I  might  add  many 
others. 

Peach  trees  should  be  only  one  year  old  from  the  bud, 
and  set  at  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  feet.  At  this  dis- 
tance the  trees  soon  grow  to  aftbrd  each  other  considera- 
ble shelter.  Mr.  W.  C.  Flagg,  of  Alton,  111.,  an  orchard- 
ist  of  experience,  writes  in  Tilton's  JNIagazine,  Novem- 
ber, 1869,  that  he  plants  his  large  peach  orchards  in 
squares  of  100  trees,  at  sixteen  and  a  half  feet  apart  each 


190  rERMANEXT    PLANTATIONS. 

way.  Eaclx  square  is  conij^osed  wholly  of  one  sort,  for  con- 
venience in  gathering  the  fruit.  Each  square  is  separated 
from  the  next  by  a  double  space,  or  two  rods.  Mr.  Flagg 
objects  to  mixed  orchard-*,  as  of  apples  and  peaches,  on 
account  of  certain  difficulties  of  cultivation.  There  may 
be  some  force  in  his  objection  in  his  locality,  but,  accord- 
ing to  my  experience,  there  is  none  at  the  East.  Where 
land  is  cheap,  there  is  nothing  gained  by  mixing.  Where 
land  is  worth  from  $200  to  $500  per  acre,  the  case  is  quite 
different. 

Standard  cJierries,  on  IMazzard  stocks,  sliould  not  be 
over  two  years  old  from  the  bud,  with  stems  three  or  four 
feet  high.  In  the  West  and  South,  where  the  trees  are 
subject  to  the  bursting  of  the  bark  on  the  trunk,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  have  the  trees  branched  as  near  the  ground  as 
possible  ;  and  in  such  cases  the  Mahaleb  stock  is  better 
than  the  Mazzard,  as  it  makes  lower,  more  compact,  and 
fertile  trees.  Orchards  of  pyramids,  or  low  dwarfs,  on 
the  Mahaleb,  may  be  planted  at  t.velve  feet  apart,  or  the 
g4-ound  may  be  more  compactly  filled  by  planting  stand- 
ards and  dwaifs  alternately,  as  in  the  case  of  the  pears. 
Cherries,  on  the  Malialcb,  I  would  i)refer  to  be  only  one  year 
from  the  bud,  and,  indeed,  this  is  my  choice  on  any  stock. 

Apricots,  on  peach  stocks,  may  be  planted  in  the  same 
soil,  and  should  be  of  the  same  age  and  character  as  the 
peaches.  On  plum  stocks  they  are  better  adapted  to 
heavy  soils. 

Plum-trees,  for  orchard  standards,  should  be  about  two 
years  old  from  the  bud  or  graft,  with  steins  about  three 
feet  high.  The  stone  fruits,  in  particular,  should  have 
low  stems,  as  they  are  more  subject  to  the  gum  on  the 
trunk  if  pruned  up  high.  They  may  be  planted  at  fif- 
teen feet  apart,  the  same  as  peaches  and  apricots.  Quinces 
should  be  two  years  old,  at  least,  and  may  be  three  from 
the  layer,  cutting,  or  bud  ;  they  may  be  planted  twelve 
feet  apart,  which  gives  about  300  to  the  acre. 


THE    OltCUARD.  191 

9th.  Pruning  and  Preparing  the  Trees  for  Planting. — 
"When  a  tree  is  taken  up  from  the  nursery,  it  unavoida- 
bly loses  some  of  its  roots,  and  others  are  more  or  less 
mutilated  ;  the  roots  frequently  suffer  hy  lonj^  carriage  or 
exposure,  and  in  this  state  it  is  unable  to  support  the 
entire  head  as  it  came  from  the  nursery.  This  has  been 
previously  explained.  In  order  that  a  tree  may  grow,  it 
is  necessary  that  a  balance  should  exist  between  the  stem 
or  branches,  and  the  root ;  consequently,  when  a  tree  is 
transplanted,  its  branches  should  be  reduced  by  shorten- 
ing so  as  to  correspond  with  the  roots.  A  standard  tree, 
that  lias  four  or  five  branches  forming  a  head,  should  be 
pruned,  at  the  time  of  i>lanting,  to  within  three  or  four 
buds  of  the  base  of  each  of  the  branches.  These  remain- 
ing buds,  receiving  all  the  nourishment,  will  push  vigor- 
ously, wliilst,  if  the  brandies  had  been  allowed  to  remain 
entire,  they  would  have  required  a  greater  supply  of  food 
than  the  roots  could  have  furnished,  and  tlie  tree  would 
either  have  died  or  made  a  very  feeble  growth.  Every 
bud  we  leave  on  the  top  of  a  tree  will  produce  either 
leaves  or  shoots,  and  these  are  so  many  new  individuals 
requiiing  sustenance.  If  we  leave  one  hundred,  it  is 
plain  the  demand  will  be  much  greater  than  if  we  leave 
only  twenty.  The  roots  must  be  dressed  by  cutting  back 
all  bruised  points  to  the  sound  wood,  with  a  smooth  cut 
on  the  under  side  of  the  root.  Trees  thus  prepared  are 
ready  for  planting. 

10th.  Planting  Orchards. — When  the  soil  has  been 
thoroughly  prepared  by  subsoil  j)lowing,  or  trenching  the 
season  previous,  the  planting  is  a  simple  matter ;  but  if  this 
has  not  been  done,  planting  properly  requires  considerable 
labor ;  for  large  holes,  three  or  four  feet  wide,  and  one  and  a 
half  to  two  feet  deep,  must  be  dug  for  the  trees,  and  the  re- 
quisite composts  procured  to  be  mixed  with  the  earth  in 
which  the  roots  are  to  be  placed.  The  planting  offers  an  ex- 
cellent opportunity  for  sup[ilying  any  defects  in  the  soilj 


193  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

for  instance,  if  too  compact,  sand,  Iraf  mould,  muck,  etc., 
may  be  added,  to  render  it  moie  porous ;  and  if  too  light, 
clay,  stiff  loam,  ashos,  etc.,  may  be  a  Ided,  to  make  it  more 
retentive.  The  proper  way  to  furnish  these  materials  is 
to  dig  large  holes,  and  put  a  good  bed,  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  deep,  of  the  compost  in  the  bottom  under  the  trees. 
Lime  should  form  a  j^art  of  all  composts,  and  especially 
for  the  apple  and  pear ;  half  a  peck  may  be  mixed  with 
the  bed  of  each  tree  in  soil  not  naturally  calcareous.  In 
digging  the  holes,  the  good  surface  soil  should  be  laid  on 
one  side,  so  that  it  can  be  used  to  fill  in  among  the  roots, 
and  for  this  purpose  it  should  be  as  finely  pulverized  as 
possible.  In  a  soil  adapted  to  fruit  culture,  if  in  a  good 
state  of  fertility,  there  is  no  necessity  for  either  large 
holes  or  compost.  Our  mode  of  planting  is  simply  to 
prepare  the  land  by  a  thorough  plowing,  and  then  dig  the 
holes  just  deep  and  wide  enough  to  admit  the  roots,  using 
neither  manure  nor  compost. 

When  the  compost  has  been  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
hole,  and  a  layer  of  fine  surface  soil  spread  over  it,  so  as 
to  be  highest  in  the  center,  the  tree  is  set  on  it,  so  that 
when  the  planting  is  finished,  the  collar  will  be  about  two 
inches  below  the  surface.  In  the  case  of  trees  on  dwarf 
stocks,  such  as  pears  on  quince,  all  the  stock  must  be  under 
the  ground.  The  roots  must  be  carefully  adjusted,  so  that 
each  one  is  spi'ead  out  in  its  natural  position  ;  the  fine 
earth  is  then  filled  in  amongst  them,  so  that  no  vacancies 
will  be  left ;  the  upper  roots  should  be  held  back  by  the 
person  who  holds  the  tree  until  the  lower  ones  are  covered. 
When  the  fiUing-in  is  half  done,  it  may  be  gently  trodden 
down  with  the  foot,  so  as  to  give  the  tree  a  firmer  hold 
of  the  ground ;  and  when  the  filling-in  of  earth  on  the 
roots  is  finished,  tread  down  firmly.  la  advanced  spring 
planting,  a  pail  of  water  might  be  given  to  each  tree 
■when  the  earth  is  partly  filled  in  ;  at  other  times  it  is  un- 
necessary, if  not  injurious. 


THE    ORCHARD.  193 

lltti.  StaJcing. — Where  the  trees  are  large,  or  the  situ- 
ation is  exposed,  either  one  or  two  stakes  should  be  plant- 
ed with  each  tree,  to  which  it  must  be  kept  fastened  for 
the  first  season,  until  the  roots  have  fixed  themselves  in 
the  ground.  A  proper  provision  must  be  made  to  pre- 
vent the  tree  from  rubbing  or  chafing  against  the  stake. 
When  two  stakes  are  used,  it  may  be  fastened  to  each  in 
such  a  way  as  not  to  rub  against  either, 

12th.  Midching. — This  should  be  looked  upon  as  an 
indispensable  operation  in  all  cases.  It  consists  in  laying 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  around  the  trees,  to  the  dis- 
tance of  three  feet  or  so,  a  covering  two  or  three  inches 
deep  of  half-decomposed  manure,  short  straw,  hay,  etc., 
or  litter  of  any  kind,  that  may  be  at  hand.  This  prevents 
the  moisture  of  the  soil  from  evaporating,  and  maintains 
a  uniformity  of  heat  and  moisture  which  is  highly  favor- 
able to  the  formation  of  new  roots.  It  also  prevents  the 
growth  of  -weeds  around  the  tree,  and  obviates  the  ne- 
cessity of  hoeing,  dressing,  or  watering,  during  the  season. 
We  frequently  practise  it  among  nursery  rows  of  late, 
spring-planted  trees  with  great  advantage.  A  deep 
mulching  should  always  be  given  to  fall-planted  trees,  to 
prevent  the  frost  from  penetrating  to  the  roots  or  draw- 
ing up  the  tree. 

13th.  After-management  of  Orchard  Trees. — This  con- 
sists in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  among  the  trees,  and 
pruning  them  to  regulate  their  growth.  For  the  first  five 
or  six  years  after  planting,  the  ground  among  orchard 
trees  may  be  advantageously  cropped  wdth  potatoes,  ruta- 
bagas, or  sugar  beets.  The  manuring  and  culture  that 
these  roots  require  keep  the  soil  in  good  condition,  and 
will  assist  in  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  orchard. 
Grain  crops  should  never  be  planted  among  trees,  as  they 
deprive  them  of  air  to  a  very  injurious  extent.  If  no 
root  crops  are  cultivated,  the  ground  should  be  kept  clean 
and  mellow  with  the  one-horse  plow  and  cultivator,  the 
9 


194  PERMANENT    PLANTATIONS. 

same  as  recommended  for  nursery  culture.  Every  third 
or  fourth  year,  or  when  their  growth  indicates  the  need 
of  it,  the  trees  should  receive  a  dressing  of  well-decom- 
posed manure  or  compost,  spread  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  over  the  roots,  or  partially  worked  in  with  u  fork. 
This  should  always  be  done  in  the  fall.  Dwarf  apples 
and  pears  require  more  frequent  and  liberal  manuring 
than  standards,  because  their  roots  occupy  a  limited 
space ;  their  heads  are  large  compared  with  the  roots, 
and  they  bear  exhausting  crops.  Whoever  has  a  large 
plantation  of  these  trees  should  be  well  provided  with 
heaps  of  compost,  a  year  old,  and  give  eacli  tree  a  peck 
to  half  a  bushel  every  year  before  the  setting  in  of  win- 
ter. This  will  maintain  their  vigor,  and  insure  large 
and  regular  crops  of  fine  fruit.  Directions  for  pruning 
and  forming  the  heads  of  standard  trees  will  be  treated 
of  under  the  general  head  of  pruning.  A  good  way  of 
renewing  the  soil  where  manure  cannot  be  had  is  to  sow 
peas,  and  when  they  are  grown  just  to  blossom,  plow 
them  under. 

There  are  those  who  advocate  seeding  orchards  with 
some  of  the  finer  grasses,  such  as  are  used  for  lawns,  and 
keeping  it  cut  short.  The  advantage  claimed  is,  that  it 
protects  the  roots  from  excessive  heat  in  the  summer.  I 
think  this  may  answer  tolerably  Avell  for  the  apple,  but 
for  all  others,  and  even  for  that,  I  should  prefer  a  mulch- 
ing of  straw,  hay,  or  some  sort  of  litter,  during  the  great- 
est heat  of  summer.  At  the  North  we  do  not  even  need 
this. 

In  some  parts  of  the  West  and  South,  where  the  pear 
suffers  from  leaf  l)light,  mulching  during  the  warm  sea- 
son is  a  necessity,  and  will,  I  am  sure,  prove  far  more 
beneficial  than  grass^  no  matter  how  short  it  may  be  kepi*, 


THE    FRUIT   GAKDEX.  195 

Section  3. — The  Fruit  Garden, 

The  fruit  garden  is  a  plantation  of  fruit-trees,  Intended 
to  supply  the  family  with  fruit.  In  some  cases,  where  a 
large  supply  of  fruit  is  wanted,  and  the  proprietor  has 
land  and  means  to  warrant  it,  a  certain  portion  of  ground 
is  wholly  devoted  to  it ;  and  in  others  it  forms  a  separate 
compartment  of  the  kitchen  garden,  or  is  mixed  with  it — 
the  fruit-trees  occupying  the  borders,  or  outsides  of  the 
compartments,  and  the  culinary  vegetables  the  interior. 
The  latter  is  most  general,  in  this  country,  at  the  present 
time.  In  a  country  like  ours,  so  well  adapted  to  fruit 
culture,  where  almost  every  citizen  not  only  occupies  but 
owns  a  garden,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  possesses  suffi- 
cient means  to  enable  him  to  devote  it  to  the  culture  of 
the  higiier  and  better  class  of  garden  productions,  the 
fruit  garden  is  destined  to  be,  if  it  is  not  already,  an  ob- 
ject of  great  importance.  In  the  old  countries  of  Europe, 
the  rich  alone,  or  those  comparatively  so,  are  permitted 
to  enjoy  such  luxury ;  for  land  is  so  dear  that  working 
people  are  unable  to  purchase  it,  and  if  they  are,  they  are 
either  unable  to  stock  it  with  trees,  or  their  necessities 
compel  them  to  devote  it  to  the  production  of  the 
coarsest  articles  of  vegetable  food  that  can  be  produced 
in  the  greatest  bulk.  It  is  not  so  in  America.  Here 
every  industrious  man,  at  the  age  of  five-and-twenty, 
whatever  may  be  his  pursuits,  may,  if  he  choose,  be 
the  proprietor  of  a  garden  of  some  extent,  and  possess 
sufficient  means  to  stock  it  with  the  finest  fruits  of  the  land. 

The  jjresent  actual  state  of  the  population  gives  abun- 
dant evidence  of  this  happy  and  prosperous  condition. 
Let  us  look  at  our  cities  and  villages.  In  Rochester, 
excepting  a  narrow  circle  in  its  very  center,  every  house 
has  its  garden,  varying  in  extent  from  twenty-five  by  one 
hundred  feet  to  an  acre  of  ground,  and  not  one  of  these 
but  is  nearly  filled  with  fruit-trees '-and  so  it  is,  but  on  a 


196  PERMANENT   PLANTATIOXS. 

larger  scale,  in  all  the  villages  of  Western  'New  York — ■ 
a  section  of  country  in  which  the  first  white  man's  settle- 
ment can  scarcely  date  back  over  sixty  years.  Aside 
from  the  beneficial  results  to  individual  and  public  health 
and  prosperity  from  this  general  union  of  the  fruit  garden 
and  the  dwelling,  it  cannot  fail  to  exercise  a  softening 
and  refining  influence  on  the  tastes,  habits,  and  manners 
of  the  people,  and  greatly  strengthen  their  love  of  home 
and  country. 

The  great  thing  wanting  at  this  moment  is  a  knowledge 
of  the  correct  method  of  planting  and  managing  fruit 
gardens.  We  cannot  pass  along  the  streets  a  rod,  where 
there  is  a  garden,  without  seeing  and  feeling  that  three- 
fourths  of  the  profit  and  pleasure  which  gardens  might 
afibrd,  are  sacrificed  to  bad  management,  arising,  in  the 
main,  from  ignorance  of  the  proper  modes  of  culture 
adapted  to  such  limited  grounds ;  and  it  is  hoped  that 
the  suggestions  and  plans  oiFered  in  the  following  detail 
of  fruit-garden  management  may  afford  at  least  a  portion 
of  the  information  wanted. 

The  formation  of  a  fruit  garden  requires  a  considera- 
tion of  the  soil,  situation,  inclosures,  laying  out,  selection 
of  trees,  selection  of  varieties,  and  planting. 

1st.  ITie  Situation. — This  is  generally  governed  by  the 
particular  circumstances  of  the  proprietor,  those  only 
who  build  with  reference  to  the  location  of  the  garden,  or 
who  liave  a  large  domain  at  their  disposal,  having  an 
opportunity  of  selection  to  any  considerable  extent.  Per- 
sons who  live  in  cities  and  villages  have  to  make  the 
best  of  their  situation.  As  it  is,  if  it  be  exposed,  they 
can  only  give  it  protection  by  lofty  inclosures,  that  will 
break  the  force  of  the  winds.  The  aspect  they  cannot 
alter,  and  must  adapt  other  circumstances  to  it.  Those 
who  can  should  select  a  situation  convenient  enough  to 
the  dwelling  to  render  it  at  all  times  easy  of  access,  in 
order  to  save  time  and  labor  in  going  to  and  from  it.     It 


THE    KRUIT    GARDEN.  197 

should  also  be  sheltered  from  tlie  north  and  west  winds. 
The  former  are  destructive  to  the  blossoms  in  spring, 
and  the  latter  frequently  blow  oif  the  fruit  before  its 
maturity.  In  sections  of  the  country  subject  to  late 
spring  frosts,  an  elevated  situation  is  to  be  preferred,  as 
in  the  case  of  orcliards.  A  full  eastern  or  southern  aspect 
should  be  avoided,  because  in  both  the  sun's  rays  strike 
the  trees  while  the  frost  is  upon  them,  and  produce  in- 
juries that  would  be  avoided  in  other  aspects.  Where 
artificial  shelter  is  required,  a  belt  of  rapid-growing  trees, 
composed  of  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  mixed,  should 
be  planted  on  the  exposed  side,  but  at  such  a  distance  as 
to  obviate  any  difficulty  that  might  arise  from  the  injuri- 
ous effects  of  shade,  or  from  the  roots  entering  the  gar- 
den. Such  a  belt  of  trees  might,  at  the  same  time,  be 
made  to  impart  a  pleasing  and  highly  ornamental  appear- 
ance to  the  grounds. 

2d.  The  i^oil  is  a  most  important  consideration.  As  in 
a  garden  a  general  collection  of  all  the  fruits  is  to  be 
grown,  and  that  in  the  highest  state  of  perfection,  the 
soil  should  be  of  that  character  in  its  texture,  depth,  and 
quality,  best  adapted  to  general  purposes.  It  should  not 
only  be  suitable  for  the  npple  and  the  pear,  but  for  the 
peach,  the  cherry,  and  tlie  plum — a  good,  deep,  friable 
loam,  with  a  gravelly  clay  subsoil,  and  entirely  free  from 
stagnant  moisture.  In  this  country,  our  warm  summers 
and  frequent,  protracted  drouths  render  a  deep  soil  for 
a  garden  absolutely  necessary.  The  means  for  deepening, 
drying,  improving,  and  changing  the  character  of  soils 
have  been  already  pointed  out  under  the  general  head  of 
Soils,  and  need  not  be  repeated  here.  Suffice  it  to  say, 
that  it  will  always  be  found  true  economy  to  be  liberal  in 
the  first  preparation  of  the  soil;  f)r  after  a  garden  is  laid 
out  and  permanently  planted,  improvements  are  always 
made  with  greater  difficulty  and  expense. 

Inclosures. — The  cheapest  and  most   ordinary  kind  of 


l98  t^EEMAiSTENT   I^LA^^TATIONS, 

inclosure  for  gardens,  in  this  counti-y,  is  the  tight  board 
fence,  and  the  picket  or  j^aling  fence.  The  former  should 
be  made  of  stout  cedar  posts,  set  at  six  feet  apart  and 
three  or  four  feet  in  the  ground,  the  ends  being  previously 
charred,  or  covered  with  hot  gas-tar,  to  increase  their 
durability,  connected  in  the  middle  and  on  the  top  with 
cross-bars,  or  rails,  which  may  be  two  by  four  inches. 
The  boards  should  be  well  seasoned,  matched,  and  se- 
curely nailed  to  the  cross-bars.  Where  the  fence  is 
required  to  be  higher  than  the  posts,  the  boards  can  ex- 
tend above  the  top  rail  two,  three,  or  even  four  feet,  if 
necessary.  The  picket  or  paling  fence  is  made  in  the 
same  way,  as  fir  as  the  frame  wo  i-k,  jjosts,  and  cross-bars 
go ;  but,  instead  of  matched  boards,  pickets,  from  three 
to  six  inches  wide,  and  pointed  on  the  top,  are  used,  and 
a  space  of  two  inches  left  between  each.  Where  the  pro- 
prietor can  afford  the  expense  of  a  brick  or  stone  wall,  it 
will  prove  the  most  permanent,  and,  in  the  end,  the  cheap- 
est inclosure.  The  hight  of  the  fence  or  wall  depends 
somewhat  on  the  extent  of  the  garden.  In  ordinary  cases, 
eight  or  ten  feet  arc  the  proper  hight,  but  when  the  gar- 
den is  very  small,  five  or  six  feet  aie  enough  ;  and  the  open 
paling  will  be  preferable,  except  on  the  nortb  side,  to  the 
tight  board  fence,  as  it  offers  less  obstruction  to  the  air 
and  light.  A  high  fencie  around  a  very  small  garden,  be- 
sides being  injurious  to  vegetation  in  it,  looks  quite  out 
of  character,  giving  to  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  box. 
Live  hedges,  as  recommended  for  orchards,  might  be 
employed  around  country  gardens  of  considerable  extent, 
say  an  acre  or  upwards,  but  they  require  to  be  kept  in  the 
neatest  possible  condition. 

Trellises. — In  England,  and  other  parts  of  Europe, 
where  the  summer  temperature  is  not  so  high  as  it  is  here, 
espalier  trees  are  trained  directly  on  the  garden  walls  or 
fence ;  but  our  hot  sun  renders  this  unsafe,  except  in  the 
case  of  the  grape,  or  on  the  north  sides  of  the  walls.    The 


THE  FUUIT   GARDEN.  199 

Bun  Strikes  the  south  side  of  a  fence  with  such  force  that 
the  foUage  in  contact  with  it  is  burned.  It  is  therefore 
necessary,  where  the  walls  or  fences  are  to  be  occupied 
with  espaliers,  to  erect  suitable  trellises  at  the  distance  of 
six  to  twelve  inches  from  them,  on  which  to  train  the 
trees.  The  form  of  tliese  differs  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  subject  to  be  trained.  They  are  geneially  made  of 
upright  and  cross-bars,  of  inch  boards,  three  inches  wide, 
placed  within  six  to  twelve  inches  of  each  other,  accord- 
ing to  the  growth  of  the  species  ;  the  larger  the  foliage 
and  the  longer  the  shoots,  the  greater  may  be  the  dis- 
tances ;  thus,  the  grape  twelve  inches,  and  the  peach 
eight.  Sometimes  they  are  constructed  of  Avooden  bars 
and  wire  rods  alternately ;  these  answer  a  good  purpose 
for  the  grape,  as  it  fixes  itself  to  the  wires  by  the  tendrils. 
The  trellis  is  fastened  to  the  wall  by  iron  hooks,  and 
should  stand  a  little  farther  from  it  at  tlie  bottom  than  at 
the  top,  for  the  pin-pose  of  giving  the  tree  a  better  ex- 
posure to  the  sun,  rain,  etc.  Fruits  are  grown  so  suc- 
cessfully in  this  country  in  the  open  ground  that  walls  or 
trellises  are  seldom  used,  except  to  economizo  sj)ace.  In 
the  North,  however,  where  the  more  tender  friiits  do  not 
succeed  in  the  open  ground,  walls  may  be  advantageously- 
employed,  as  the  trees  trained  on  them  are  easily  pro- 
tected both  from  wintei-  and  spring  frosts. 

Laying  Out  the  Fndt  Garden. — This  is  the  arrange- 
ment or  distributi<m  of  the  ground  into  suitable  plots  or 
compartments,  necessary  Av'alks,  etc.  Tiie  mode  of  doing 
this  depends  on  the  size  of  the  garden,  nnd  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  to  be  planted.  Fruit  gardens,  properly  speak- 
ing, are  such  as  are  wholly  devoted  to  fruits;  but  a  very 
common  form,  as  has  been  already  observed,  is  the  mixed 
garden,  where  a  portion  only  is  devoted  to  fruits,  and  the 
remainder  to  culinary  vegetables.     We  will  first  consider 

The  Fniit  Garden  proper. — In  all  fruit  gardens  the 
number  of  walks  should  be  no  greater  than  ia  absolutely 


200 


PERMANENT   rLAXTATIOXS. 


necessary  for  convenience.     In  small 


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places,  the  "better 
plan  appears  to 
bo  to  carry  the 
principal  walk 
around  the  out- 
side, leaving  as 
much  as  possible 
of  the  interior, 
where  air  and 
light  are  enjoyed 
to  the  greatest 
extent,  for  the 
trees.  A  border 
should  be  left  be- 
tween the  fence 
and  the  walk,  of 
sufficient  width 
for  the  trees  to 
be  trained  on  the 
fence  trellis.  If 
ap2>earances  were 
to  be  strictly  ob- 
served, this  bor- 
der should  be  as 
wide  as  tlie  fence 
is  high,  but,  as 
a  general   thing. 


Fiir.  100. — PLAN  OF  A  SMALL  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


five  to  six  feet 
will  be  sufficient ; 
and  w  li  e  r  e 
ground  is  limited,  appearance  must,  in  many  cases,  be 
sacrified  to  economy.  Where  the  work  is  all  performed 
by  manual  labor,  the  walks  need  not  be  more  than  five 
to  six  feet  wide,  as  that  admits  of  the  passage  of  a  wheel- 
barrow, and  this  is  all  that  is  required. 

Fig.  100  is  a  design  for  a  very  small  garden,  fifty  feet  by 


THE    yRUIT    GARDEN.  20^ 

one  hundred.  A  is  the  entrance  gate,  four  feet  wide ; 
Ji,  JJ,  a  walk,  five  feet  wide ;  6',  C,  fence  border,  six  feet 
wide.  The  rows  of  trees  are  eiglit  feet  apart.  Tlie  pyram- 
idal pears  and  cherries,  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  and  4,  at  seven  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  Nos.  5  and  G,  dwarf  apples,  at  four 
feet  apart.  No.  7,  pyramidal  or  dwarf  standard  plums, 
at  seven  feet.  Nos.  8,  9,  and  10,  low  standard  peaches, 
at  ten  feet  apart,  the  outside  ones  four  feet  from  the  walk. 
Nos.  11,  12,  13,  and  14,  low  standard  (piinces,  etc.  Nos. 
15,  16,  17,  18,  19,  and  20,  esj)aliers,  apricots,  grapes,  etc. 
One  border  is  filled  with  gooseberries  and  currants,  the 
other  can  be  occupied  with  raspberries  and  strawben-ies. 
This  arrangement  gives  in  this  little  garden  twenty  p\-rara- 
idal  trees,  thirteen  standards,  twelve  dwarfs,  six  espal- 
iers, besiiles  space  enough  for  two  dozen  currants,  two 
dozen  gooseberries,  tw^o  dozen  raspberries,  etc.  For  sev- 
eral years  a  few  strawberries  and  low  vegetables,  such  as 
lettuces,  radishes,  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  or  even  dwarf 
peas,  may  be  grown  in  the  spaces  among  the  trees,  but  in 
no  case  to  be  permitted  nearer  than  within  three  feet  of 
a  tree.  In  regard  to  distance  between  trees,  my  ex- 
perience is,  that  where  a  good  crop  is  of  more  importance 
than  a  great  variety,  dwarf  and  ])}  ramidal  trees  of  the 
pear,  j)lum,  cherry,  peach,  apricot,  nectarine,  and  quince, 
should  have  ten  to  twelve  feet.  This  distance  would  re- 
duce the  number  of  trees  in  the  plan  (fig.  100). 

The  mixed,  or  fruit  atid  Jcitchen  garden,  is  laid  out  in 
a  similar  manner.  The  trees  are  jdanted  in  rows,  on  a  bor- 
der six  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the  trees, 
along  the  walks,  leaving  the  interior  of  the  compartments 
for  vegetables.  This  arrangement  is  a  very  common  one, 
and  generally  ansAvers  a  very  good  purpose ;  but  where 
it  is  practicable,  it  is  much  better  to  devote  a  separate 
portion  exclusively  to  fruit,  in  order  that  the  one  may  not 
in  any  way  interfere  with  the  other.  In  such  a  garden, 
the  number  of  the  walks,  and  consequently  fruit  borders, 
9* 


202  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS. 

will  depend  upon  the  i)ropoition  of  the  ground  intended 
to  be  allotted  to  fruit ;  and  this  again  will  be  regulated  by 
the  means,  taste,  and  demands  of  the  family. 

Tlie  frontispiece  of  this  work  gives  the  plan  of  a  mixed 
fruit  and  kitchen  garden,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide 
by  two  hundred  long,  being  one  hundred  and  ten  square 
rods ;  somewhnt  less  than  three-quarters  of  an  acre.  The 
design  is  to  have  two  tree  borders  exclusive  of  the  outside 
or  fence  border.  The  center  main  walk,  from  ji  to  C,  is 
ten  feet  wide.  That  crossing  it  in  the  center,  six  feet 
wide.  The  small  walk,  next  the  fence  border,  four  feet 
wide,  and  that  between  the  two  tree  borders,  five  feet. 
The  fence  border  is  six  feet  wide,  and  may  be  planted 
with  espalier  trees,  vines,  etc.,  besides  currants,  raspber- 
ries, strawberries,  or  anything  of  low  growth,  not  requir- 
ing the  fullest  exposure.  The  tree  borders  are  all  eight 
feet  wide,  except  the  dAvarf-apple  border,  which  is  only 
six.  The  outside  border  is  planted  on  the  two  sides  with 
low  standard  or  pyramidal  peaches,  apricots,  plum?, 
quinces,  etc.,  at  twelve  feet  apart,  and  the  two  ends  with 
pyramids,  at  eight  feet. 

The  inside  borders  are  planted  with  pyramids  and 
dwarfs,  the  former  at  eight,  and  the  hatter  at  six  feet 
apart.  A,  is  the  entrance  ;  J?,  well  or  cistern ;  C,  a  space 
to  turn  a  horse  and  cai't  upon.  This  arrangement  gives 
thirty  standard  trees,  eighty-three  pyramids,  and  forty 
dwarfs,  leaving  clear  the  outside  border,  over  six  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  long,  and  six  wide,  and  the  four  interior 
compartments,  each  about  thirty  by  sixty  feet.  In  crop- 
ping the  latter  with  vegetal)les,  they  may  be  divided,  as 
in  the  design,  into  nari-ow  beds,  three  or  four  feet  wide, 
separated  by  paths,  eighteen  mches  wide.  In  gardens  of 
greater  extent,  it  will  be  well  to  increase  the  distance  be- 
tween the  trees. 

Walks  in  the  Fruit  Garden. — The  number  of  these,  as 
has  been   I'emarked,  should  be  simply  sufficient  for  con- 


THE   FRUIT   GARDEN.  203 

dwcting  the  operations  of  gardening  with  convenience ; 
this  being  provided  for,  the  fewer  the  better.  Where 
horse  labor  is  employed,  the  main  walk,  either  through 
the  center  or  around  the  sides,  should  be  nine  or  ten  feet 
wide.  Where  manual  labor  alone  is  employed,  as  in 
small  gardens,  five  or  six  feet  will  be  snfiicient,  and  even 
four  feet,  as  that  admits  of  the  passage  of  a  wheelbarrow. 
Between  each  compartment,  or  line  of  trees,  there  should 
also  be  a  path,  two  or  three  feet  wide,  as  a  passage  for 
the  gardener  or  workmen,  and  others  who  may  desire  to 
inspect  the  trees.  Where  the .  expense  can  be  afforded, 
the  main  walks  should  be  gravelled,  so  as  to  be  dry  and 
comfortable  at  all  seasons,  and  in  every  state  of  the  wea- 
ther; for  it  is  presumed  that  every  man  who  has  a  fruit 
garden,  worthy  of  the  name,  will  wish  to  visit  it  almost 
daily,  and  so  will  the  members  of  his  family  and  his 
friends  who  visit  him.  The  labor  and  expense  of  making 
a  walk  depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil.  If  dry, 
with  a  porous  subsoil,  absorbing  water  rapidly,  six 
inches  of  good  pit  gravel,  slightly  rounded  on  the  top, 
will  be  sufficient.  If  the  soil  be  damp  and  the  subsoil 
compact,  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  the  earth  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot  in  the  center,  and  rising  towards  the  sides, 
so  that  the  excavation  will  resemble  a  semicircle  ;  this  is 
filled  with  small  stones,  and  a  few  inches  of  good  pit 
gravel  on  the  top.  This  makes  a  walk  dry  at  all  times. 
We  often  see  very  comfortable  and  neat-looking  walks 
made  of  spent  bark  from  the  tannery ;  six  inches  deep  of 
this  will  last  two  or  three  years,  and  no  excavation  is 
necessary  in  any  kind  of  soil.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed 
that  so  great  expense  will  be  incurred,  in  any  case,  in  the 
formation  of  the  walks  of  a  fruit  or  kitchen  garden,  as 
those  of  a  pleasure  ground  or  flower  garden,  and  there- 
fore it  is  unnecessary  to  suggest  either  costly  modes  or 
materials.  The  chief  point  is  to  secure  dry,  comfortable 
walking,    without    introducing    any    material    that    will 


204  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

produce  a  decidedly  unpleasant  contrast  with  vegetation. 
This  can  all  be  accomplished  by  the  cheap  and  simple 
means  referred  to,  and  others  that  may  suggest  them- 
selves. 

The  main  walks  alone  should  be  gravelled  ;  the  smaller 
alleys,  or  paths,  between  the  different  lines  of  trees  or  com- 
partments of  the  gai'den,  are  principally  for  the  use  of  the 
workmen.  In  very  small  gardens,  where  it  is  important 
to  economize  the  ground,  the  spaces  devoted  to  the  walks 
may  be  of  plank,  raised  on  pillars  or  blocks  a  foot  from 
the  ground  ;  the  roots  of  trees  can  then  penetrate  the 
ground  below  the  walk  as  well  as  the  border,  and  scarce 
any  ground  will  be  lost. 

Water. — A  supply  of  water  in  the  garden  is  a  most 
important  consideration  in  onr  warm,  diy,  sunny  climate. 
Good  crops  of  culinary  vegetables  cannot  be  secured  in 
many  seasons  witiiout  a  liberal  application  of  water ;  and 
fruit-trees  are  greatly  benefited  by  frequent  showering, 
especially  in  dry  weather.  It  refreshes  them  and  drives 
away  insects.  A  good  well  or  cistern  should-  therefore 
be  provided  in  every  garden,  and  be  situated  as  near  the 
center  as  possible,  to  be  convenient  to  all  parts. 

SELECTION    OF   TREES. 

TTieir  Form. — "We  start  upon  the  principle  that,  in 
all  cases,  tall  standard  trees,  such  as  are  usually  planted 
in  orchards,  are  totally  unfit  for  the  garden.  This  is  the 
chief  defect  in  American  fruit  gardening.  All  the  trees 
for  a  fruit  garden  should  be  either  dwarf  standards,  with 
trunks  two  to  three  feet  high,  ^>^/ram^(/s,  branched  from 
the  ground,  or  hushes,  with  stems  six  to  twelve  inches 
high.  Trees  in  these  forms  are,  in  the  first  place,  in  keep- 
ing with  the  limited  extent  of  the  garden,  and  convey,  at 
first  sight,  the  idea  of  fitness.  In  the  second  place,  they 
give  a  great  variety  on  a  small  space,  for  three  or  four 


THE    FKUIT    GARDEN-.  205 

such  trees  will  not  occupy  more  space  than  one  standard. 
In  the  third  place,  they  are  in  a  convenient  form  for  man- 
agement ;  they  are  easily  pruned  or  protected,  and  the 
fruit  is  easily  gathered,  and  less  likely  to  be  blown  off 


Fi<|.   101.— PYRAMIDAL   APPLE-TREE. 

than  on  tall  trees.     Finally,  they  bear  several  years  sooner 
than  standards. 

Among  the  forms  mentioned,  the  ^pyramid  is  certainly 
the  most  beautiful ;  and  in  the  best  fruit  gardening 
regions  of  Europe,  where  almost  every  conceivable  form 
of  tree  has   been  tried,  it    is  to-day  the   most  popular, 


206 


PEEMANENT  PLAITTATIONS. 


because  it  has  proved  the  most  advantageous  and  success* 
ful.  The  apple  for  pyramids  (fig.  101)  should  be  on  the 
Doucin  stock.  Certain  varieties,  such  as  the  Hawthorn- 
den^  Kesicick  Codlin,  Summer  Hose,  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burg, and  many  other  moderate  growers  and  early  bearers, 
will  make  good  pyramids  on  free  stocks,  but  they  will 
require  more  summer  pruning  and  carciful  management  to 
keep  their  vigor  under  check  than  they  would  ©n  the 
Doucin.     But  apples  for  the  fruit  garden,  even  on  the 


Fig.  103. — DWARF    BUSH   APPLE-TREE. 

iDoucin,  should  be  such  as  naturally  make  small  trees,  and 
are  inclined  to  early  bearing.  In  these  res[)ects,  it  is  very 
well  knuwn  there  is  a  wide  difference  between  varieties. 
Those  mentioned  above,  and  others  similar  in  character, 
frequently  bear,  on  free  stocks  in  the  nursery  rows,  at  the 
age  of  three  or  four  years  from  the  bud,  whilst  others  do 
not  bear  until  eight  or  ten  years  old.  This  is  a  point  that 
should  always  be  regarded  in  selecting  garden  trees ;  for 
it  is  the  natural  and  proper  desire  of  every  one  who 
plants  a  tree  in  the  garden  to  obtain  fruit  from  it  as  early 
as  possible. 


THE    FllUIT    GAKDEN.  207 

The  Apple  for  Dicarfs. — The  apple,  worked  on  the 
Paradise,  makes  a  beautiful  little  dwarf  bush.  We  know 
of  nothing  more  interesting  in  the  fruit  garden  than  a 
row  or  a  little  &-quaie  of  these  miniature  apple-trees  (fig. 
102),  either  in  blossom  or  in  fruit.  Those  who  have  not 
seen  them  may  imagine  an  apple-tree,  four  feet  high,  and 
the  same  in  width  of  branches,  covered  with  blossoms  in 
the  spring,  or  loaded  Avith  magnificent  golden  and  crim- 
son fruit  in  the  autumn.  They  begin  to  bear  the  third 
year  from  the  bud,  and  the  same  variety  is  always  larger 
and  finer  on  them  tlian  on  standards.  We  have  had  Red 
Astrachcms  on  Paradise  that  measured  eleven  inches  in 
circumference.  The  French  plant  a  square  or  compart- 
ment of  these  in  the  kitchen  or  fruit  garden,  as  they  do 
gooseberries  and  currants,  six  feet  apart ;  they  also  alter- 
nate them  with  pyramidal  pear-trees,  in  rows ;  an<l  in 
some  of  the  best  mixed  kitchen  and  fruit  gardens  two 
dwarf  apples  are  jilanted  between  two  pyramidal  pears, 
thus  giving  double  the  number  of  apples  as  of  the  pears 
in  a  border  or  row.  In  small  gardens,  the  apple  should 
not  be  admitted  under  any  other  form,  and  even  to  a 
limited  extent  in  that ;  for  it  is  the  great  fruit  of  the 
orchard^  and  in  nearly  all  parts  of  this  country  extensive- 
ly grown,  and  can  be  purchased  at  very  moderate  rates. 

Dwarf  Apple  trained  in  Horizontal  Gordon. — In  Eu- 


Fig.  103. — APPLE  couDON  (Single). 


ropean  gardens,  the  dwarf  apple  is  frequently  trained 
on  what  are  called  "  liorizontal  cordons  "  along  the  walk 
borders,  and  are  very  pretty  objects. 

The  cordon,  as  tlie  drawing  (fig,    103)  shows,  consists 


208 


PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 


of  single  stems,  or  arms,  trained  horizontally  on  a  wire  or 
wooden  rail,  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  from  the  ground. 


Fig-.  104. — APPLE  COKDON  (Doiiblc). 

This  stem,  or  cordon,  is  kept  furnished  with  fruit  spurs,  and 
produces  fruit  on  its  entire  length.  The  cordon  may  be  either 
single  or  double.     The  single  consists  of  a  single  stem,  or 

arm,  and  the  double 
of  a  pair  of  arms, 
one  trained  to  each 
side,  as  in  fig.  104. 
The  Pear  as  a 
Pyramid  (fig.  105). 
— The  pear  is  emi- 
nently the  tree  for 
the  pyramidal  form, 
either  on  the  free 
stock  or  on  the 
quince.  On  the  lat- 
ter, however,  the 
trees  bear  much  ear- 
lier, are  more  pro- 
lific, more  manage- 
able, and  conse- 
quently preferable 
for  small  gardens. 
On  the  pear  stock 
they  require  con- 
stant summer  prun- 
„  ing    and     pinching, 

Fig.  105.— PTKAMIDAL   PEAR-TREE.  ^-       .  ^ 

7  feet  bigh ;  4  feet  wide  at  the  base.  ^nd,   m    SOme    caseS, 


THE    FRUIT  GARDEN.  209 

root  pruning,  to  subdue  the  natural  vigor,  and  induce 
early  fruitfulness.  Certain  varieties,  however,  do  not 
succeed  on  the  quince,  but  a  large  number  of  melting 
varieties  do,  and  produce  larger  and  finer  fruit  on  it 
than  on  the  free  stock.  The  tardiness  of  bearing  of 
the  pear-tree,  when  grown  in  the  ordinary  standard 
form,  on  pear  stock,  lias,  more  than  any  other  cause, 
retarded  its  general  cultivation.  No  better  proof  of 
this  can  be  adduced  than  the  general  partiality  now 
shown  for  trees  on  quince  stocks  .that  bear  at  the  age  of 
three  or  four  years.  The  introduction  of  these  trees,  a 
few  years  ago,  was  really  the  first  thing  that  gave  a  gen- 
eral impulse  to  pear-tree  planting.  With  most  people,  it 
is  a  very  important  thing  to  obtain  fruit  in  two  or  three 
years,  instead  of  waiting  eight  or  ten.  The  best  man- 
agement of  trees  on  free  stocks  cannot  bring  them  into  a 
bearing  state  short  of  six  or  seven  years,  unless  it  be 
some  remarkably  precocious  vaiiety.  People,  therefore, 
who  wish  pear-trees  for  pyramids  that  are  easily  man- 
aged, and  will  bear  early,  will  select  them  on  quince 
stocks,  in  case  the  varieties  they  wish  to  cultivate  have 
been  proved  to  succeed  well  on  it. 

The  Cherry  is  as  easily  managed  in  the  pyramidal  form 
as  the  pear — not  only  the  free-growing  sorts.  Hearts  and 
liigarreaus,  but  the  Dukes  and  3Iorellos ;  the  latter, 
however,  are  less  vigorous,  and  more  easily  managed. 
All  should  be  worked  on  the  Mahaleb  stock ;  this  has,  to 
some  extent,  the  same  efiect  on  the  cherry  as  the  quince 
has  on  the  pear.  After  the  second  or  third  year's  growth, 
it  subdues  their  vigor,  and  induces  fruitfulness.  The 
Dukes  and  Morellos  should  be  chosen  where  very  small 
trees  are  desirable. 

The  Plum  as  a  Pyramid. — The  plum  has  rarely  been 
cultivated  as  a  pyramid,  but  recent  experiments  prove 
that  it  is  quite  susceptible  of  that  form  under  proper 
management.     It  should  be  worked  on  a  stock  calculated 


210  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

to  subdue  its  natural  vigor.  Tlie  native,  or  Canada  plum, 
and  the  Myrobolan,  or  Cherry  i)lum,  are  suitable.  Sum- 
mer pruning  and  pinching,  as  well  as  occasional  root 
pruning,  are  all  necessary  to  clieck  the  vigor  of  most 
kinds,  and  keep  theni  in  suitable  dimensions  for  small 
gardens  where  it  is  necessary  to  jJaiit  them  close.  Our 
sj)ecinieii  j)lum  orchard  consists  entirely  of  dwarf  stand- 
ard and  pyramidal  trees,  planted  in  rows,  ten  feet  apart, 
and  eight  feet  apart  in  the  row.  They  were  planted  some 
twelve  or  fifteen  years  ago,  and  are  now  models  of  beauty 
and  j^roductiveness — that,  too,  without  any  summer 
pruning,  root  pruning,  or  i)inching. 

Hie  Plain  as  a  Dwarf  Standard. — Besides  the  pyra- 
mid, this  is  the  only  form  in  which  the  plum  should  be 
admitted  into  the  garden.  The  dwarf  standard,  with  a 
trunk  two  or  three  feet  in  hight,  and  a  symmetrical, 
round  head,  is  a  very  pretty  and  appropriate  form,  and 
requires  less  skill  and  care  in  the  management  than  the 
pyramid  ;  and  with  pioper  care,  the  trees  require  but 
little,  if  any,  more  space. 

ITie  Peach. — The  best  garden  form  for  the  peach  in 
this  country,  generally,  is  that  of  the  dwarf  standard^ 
with  a  trunk  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  With  proper 
management,  which  will  hereafter  be  described,  t'ds  form 
is  easily  conducted,  even  when  the  trees  are  on  ])each 
stocks.  The  plum  stock,  and  especially  the  sorts  recom- 
mended for  dwarf  plums,  give  trees  that  are  less  vigor- 
ous, and  more  easily  kept  in  a  small  space.  In  most  parts 
of  our  country,  the  fruit  ripens  perfectly  in  the  open 
ground,  so  that  espalier  or  oblique  cordon  ti-aining,  as  has 
been  remarked,  is  seldom  practised,  unless  to  save  ground, 
or  in  northern  localities,  where  ])rotection  of  the  buds 
during  winter,  or  of  tlie  blossoms  in  the  spring,  is  neces- 
sary. In  such  cases  alone  are  espaliers  to  be  recommended, 
as  they  require  much  greatei-  care  in  pruning  and  train- 
ing than  any  other  form.     Espalier  trees  are  of  various 


THE    FRUIT    GAUDEK.  211 

forms,  l)ut  the  fan^  as  it  is  termed,  is  tlie  best  adapted  to 
the  peach.  It  consists  of  two  main  brandies  or  divisions 
of  tlie  stem,  spread  out  in  the  form  of  a  V;  eacli  of  these 
bears  a  certain  nnmber,  as  many  as  may  be  necessary 
to  fill  the  trellis,  of  secondary  branches,  and  tliesc  furnish 
tlie  bearing  wood.  The  production  and  management  of 
this  and  other  espalier  forms  will  be  treated  fully  under 
the  head  of  pruning  and  training. 

Tlie  Apricot  and  Kectarine. — The  remarks  applied  to 
the  peach  n{  ply  with  equal  force  to  both  these  trees  ; 
they  succeed  equally  well  as  low  standards  or  as  espal- 
iers or  cordons.  The  apricot  is  more  generally  grown  in 
these  forms  than  any  other  tree,  because  its  early  blossoms 
are  so  easily  protected,  and  the  curculio  does  not  appear 
to  be  so  troublesome  to  it  as  in  the  standard  form. 

The  Quince,  in  the  garden,  should  either  be  a  dwarf 
bush,  with  a  stem  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high,  and  a 
compact,  symmetrical  head,  or  a  pyramid.  In  the  latter 
form  it  is  quite  easily  trained,  but  requires  more  care, 
of  course,  than  as  a  bush,  as  the  npper  part  of  the  tree 
must  always  be  kept  subordinate  to  the  lower,  and  this 
requires  regular  and  constant  attention.  No  fruit  tree 
is  more  neglected  than  the  quince,  and  yet  it  is  a  profita- 
ble and  most  beautiful  tree,  either  in  blossom  or  fruit. 
It  well  lepays  the  care  required  to  keep  it  in  proper 
shape. 

Tlie  Filbert. — The  remarks  on  the  quince  may  be  ap- 
j^lied  with  equal  propriety  to  the  filbert,  as  regards  form. 
The  hi(sh,  branched  from  the  ground,  and  the  loio  stand- 
ards, with  two-foot  stems,  are  the  ordinary  forms  ;  but  in 
some  of  the  French  gardens  it  is  conducted  with  great 
success  as  a  pyramid. 

These  arc  the  ju-incipal  trees  of  Avhich  it  is  necessary 
to  speak  in  regard  to  form.  Other  species  will  be  referred 
to  under  the  head  of  Pruning.  Having  ni)W  pointed  out 
the  most  eligible  forms  for  garden  trees,  and  their  respec- 


212  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

tive  advantages,  planters  will  be  able  to  make  a  choice 
adapted  to  their  tastes  and  circumstances.  Those  who  do 
not  employ  a  professional  gardener,  and  who  have  but  a 
small  portion  of  spare  time  to  devote  to  their  garden, 
should  by  all  means  adopt  such  forms  for  their  trees  as 
require  the  least  skill  and  labor,  provided  always  tliat  it 
be  appropriate  to  the  size  of  the  garden,  and  consistent 
with  good  management. 

The  next  point  to  be  considered  is. 

The  Age  of  the  Trees. — This  will  depend  very  much  on 
circumstances.  For  pyramidal  trees  it  is  yet  difficult,  al- 
most impossil)le,  to  obtain  in  the  nurseries  specimens  of 
more  than  one  year's  growth  that  are  suitable.  The 
yearlings  are  never  sufficiently  cut  back,  nor  the  branches 
of  the  second  and  third  years  so  managed  as  to  have  the 
requisite  proportion  of  length  and  vigor  to  fit  them  for 
being  moidded,  with  any  ordinary  treatment,  into  a  per- 
fectly pyramidal  form.  If  suitable  trees  cannot  be  found 
of  two  or  three  years  from  the  bud  or  graft,  vigorous 
yearlings,  worked  at  the  ground,  should  be  chosen,  as 
they  are  in  a  condition  to  take  easily  any  required  form  ; 
and  though  fruit  may  not  be  soon  obtained  from  them, 
yet  they  Avill,  in  the  end,  be  much  more  satisfactory;  for, 
unless  a  right  beginning  be  made  in  the  training  of  a  tree 
in  any  form  more  or  less  artificial,  no  art  can  afterwards 
completely  correct  the  errors.  If  we  take  a  two  or  tliree 
year  old  tree,  managed  in  the  nursery,  as  usual,  with  a 
naked  trunk,  two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  a  branching  head,  or,  what  is  nearly  as  bad,  a  few 
weak  side  branches  below,  overrun  with  strong  ones 
above,  the  most  severe  process  will  be  necessary,  in  order 
to  produce  lateral  branches  in  the  proper  place ;  and  thus 
as  much  time  will  be  lost  as  Avould  l)ring  forward  a  yearling, 
and  the  tree  will  not  be  so  perfectly  formed,  nor  in  any 
respect  so  satisfactory.  The  general  impatience  that  ex- 
ists in  regard  to  the  growth  and  bearing  of  trees  is  the 


THE  PRTTIT   GARDBN".  213 

great  cause  of  this  defective  character  when  taken  from 
the  nursery.  The  nurseryman  is  averse  to  cutting  back  liis 
trees,  as  they  lose  a  year  in  hight ;  and  planters  or  pur- 
chasers are  not  generally  discriminating-  enough  to  be  will- 
ing to  pay  him  a  proportionate  price.  He  finds  tall  trees 
more  attractive.  When  planters  do  get  these  trees,  they 
cannot  be  persuaded  to  cut  them  down ;  they  wish  to  ob- 
tain fruit  as  soon  as  possible,  and  tlierefore  the  tree  is  al- 
lowed to  j)roceed  in  the  defective  form  it  assjimed  at  the 
nursery. 

For  Dwarfs  and  Dwarf  Standards,  it  is  less  difficult  to 
obtain  the  right  sort  of  trees,  for  this  is  the  form  that  nur- 
sery trees  that  have  not  been  cut  back,  ordinarily  assume. 
Those,  therefore,  who  prefer  such  ti'ees  can  always  be  sup- 
plied with  them  well  advanced,  even  in  a  bearing  state,  if 
so  desired.  As  in  the  pyramid,  however,  persons  who 
intend  to  make  models  of  their  trees,  will  do  well  to  pro- 
cure yearlings  worked  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  for  on 
them,  lieads  or  lateral  branches  can  be  formed  without  any 
difficulty  at  any  desired  point  between  the  collar  and  ter« 
minal  bud.  Another  consideration  is  worthy  of  note  on 
this  point.  There  is  a  much  greater  risk  in  removing 
three  or  four  year  old  trees  than  yearlings,  and  they  are 
more  difficult  and  expensive  to  pack  and  transport.  The 
yearling  is  easily  removed  and  easily  transported,  and  its 
growth  is  comparatively  unaffiscted  by  the  change.  The 
gardeners  most  famous  for  their  handsome,  well-managed 
fruit  trees,  invariably  select  yearling  trees,  that  is,  trees 
that  have  made  one  year's  growth  from  the  bud  or  graft. 
But  it  is  not  always  practicable  to  procure  trees  of  this 
age,  as  few  of  them  are  called  for,  and  nursery-men  dislike 
to  break  upon  their  young  stock  before  it  has  attained 
the  usual  marketable  age. 

Selection  of  Varieties. — The  selection  of  varieties  of 
fruits  for  a  fruit  garden  should  be  made  in  view  of  all  the 
circumstances    that  can    affect   their  usefulness.      They 


S14  PERMANENT   fLA-NTATlONS. 

should  be  adapted  to  the  soil,  and  more  particularly  to 
the  climate.  It  is  well  known  that  in  every  section  of  the 
country,  certain  varieties  seem  to  succeed  lemarkably 
well,  whilst  others,  of  the  greatest  excellence  elsewhere, 
entirely  fail.  Our  country  is  so  extensive,  and  embraces 
such  a  variety  of  climate,  that  it  is  impossible  that  the 
same  varieties  should  succeed  equally  well  in  all  parts ; 
and  planters  s'lould  consider  this  well.  Those  who  have 
had  no  experience  in  cultivation,  nor  a  proper  opportunity 
for  acquiring  knowledge  on  this  point,  should  consult 
others.  Any  intelligent  nurseryman  who  has  a  corre- 
spondence with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  is  thoroughly 
alive  to  all  the  branches  of  his  profession,  and  the  re- 
sults of  experience,  can  aid  planters  greatly  in  making 
appropriate  selections.  It  is  true  that  the  amount  of 
knowledge  collected  on  this  head  is  yet  comparatively 
small,  and  quite  insufficient  for  a  general  guide,  but  it  is 
every  day  accumulating,  and  what  there  may  be  is  well 
worthy  of  attention.  The  experience  of  fruit  growers,  as 
elicited  at  recent  pomological  conventions,  has  brought 
to  light  a  multitude  of  highly  important  facts,  bearing  on 
this  very  point.  These  will  be  more  particularly  noted 
when  we  coma  to  the  description  of  fruits. 

Varieties  should  be  adapted  in  their  groioth  to  the  form 
they  are  to  he  gromn  in,  a)id  to  the  extent  of  the  garden. 
—For  pyramidal  trees,  varieties  should  bo  chosen  whose 
habits  of  growth  are  regular,  or  slightly  spreading,  the 
branches  assuming  more  of  the  horizontal  than  the 
upright,  and  those  disposed  to  branch  low  down  should  be 
preferred  to  those  of  an  opposite  lial)it.  Wliere  the  gar- 
den is  small,  moderate  or  slow  growers  should  be  pre 
ferred  to  rapid  and  vigorous  growers.  They  should  also 
be  well  adapted  to  the  stock  on  which  they  are  Avorked. 
This  is  a  very  important  point,  but  one  on  which  only  a 
few  persons  in  this  country  have  yet  acquired  any  con- 
siderable amount  of   actual  experience.     Still,  many  im- 


THE   FEUIT   GARDEN.  Sl5 

portunt  facts  have  been  gatlieiecl,  aiul  it  becomes  every 
planter  to  avail  himself  of  them.  If  he  plants  pears  on 
quince  stocks,  for  instance,  it  is  important  to  know  that 
certain  varieties  are  much  better  on  that  stock  than  they 
are  on  the  pear,  and  that  others  fail  and  are  worthless  on  it. 

The  varieties  should  be  adapted  to  the  wants  and  wishes 
of  the  planter. — Those  who  plant  fruit  gardens  have  not 
all  the  same  objects  in  view.  One  man  plants  his  garden 
simply  to  supj)ly  his  family  with  good  fruits.  Tiiis  is 
his  main  purpose.  He  should,  therefore,  select  the  very 
best  varieties,  considering  not  the  quality  alone,  but  their 
in-oductiveiiess  and  other  useful  properties.  Such  a  per- 
son has  no  desire  for  a  large  collection,  but  looks  merely 
for  an  assortment  that  will  yield  a  succession  of  ripe  fruits 
during  the  season.  Another,  who  regards  the  mere  value 
of  the  fruit  less  than  amusement,  recreation,  and  experi- 
ment, will  make  his  collection  as  varied  as  possible. 
Where  any  particular  class  of  fruits  can  be  had  very 
cheap  in  market,  it  should  be  planted  sparingly  in  the 
garden,  so  that  such  as  may  be  scarce  or  dear  can  be 
grown  in  larger  quantities.  It  is  only  by  taking  all  these 
into  account  that  planters  can  hope  to  make  their  fruit 
garden  answer  their  particuhir  views  and  purposes. 

The  planting  of  a  fruit  garden  should  be  considered  as 
of  equal  importance  with  the  building  of  a  dwelling,  so 
far  as  the  doing  of  it  well  is  concerned.  Tlie  dwelling  is 
constructed  with  a  view  to  the  convenience  of  the  family, 
and  is,  therefore,  in  all  its  parts,  supposed  to  be  adapted 
to  their  wants  and  mode  of  living.  The  fruit  garden  is 
intended,  also,  to  promote  the  comfort  and  convenience 
of  the  family,  and  should  be,  like  the  dwelling,  in  all 
respects  as  nearly  as  possible  adapted  to  their  wants  and 
circumstances.  Having  now  treated  of  the  soil,  inclos- 
ures,  trellises,  walks,  arrangement,  selection  of  trees  and 
varieties,  we  proceed  to  the  taking  up  of  the  trees  and 
planting. 


216  PERMANENT  PLANTATIONS. 

Taking  up  the  Trees. — This  has  ah-eady  been  described 
under  the  head  of  Nursery  Operations,  to  which  the  reader 
is  referred. 

Plantitig  hiis  been  described  under  the  head  oi  Planting 
the  Orchard ;  and  the  operation  being  the  same  in  both 
cases,  it  need  not  be  repeated. 

The  arrangement  of  the  trees,  however,  is  different,  and 
this  point  requires  a  special  notice. 

In  regard  to  positiofi. — Each  class  of  trees,  such  as 
pears,  apples,  cherries,  etc.,  should  be  planted  together  in 
the  same  rows  or  division,  and  if  any  difference  exist  in 
the  soil,  each  should  be  planted  in  that  best  adapted  to  it. 
Thus,  plums  should  have  that  most  inclined  to  clay ;  pears 
and  apples,  the  deepest  and  richest;  cherries,  peaches, 
apricots,  etc.,  the  driest  and  lightest. 

Where  the  garden  is  large,  the  pyramids  should  be  in 
one  compartment,  the  dwarf  standards  in  another,  and  the 
dwarf  bushes  in  another;  but  where  it  is  necessary  to 
economize  and  fill  the  ground  to  the  best  advantage,  the 
dwarf  bushes  may  alternate  advantageously  with  the 
pyramids  or  dwarf  standards,  and  this  especially  along 
the  walk  borders.  Varieties,  too,  of  the  same  or  similar 
habits  of  growth,  shoiild,  if  possible,  be  together.  The 
espalier  trees  should  be  placed  so  that  the  earliest  blos- 
soming kinds,  such  as  the  apricots,  will  be  most  secure 
from  the  influence  of  spring  frosts  where  these  pre\ail ; 
the  trellis  facing  the  north  will  be  the  best  for  this  pur- 
pose; but  where  it  is  intended  to  protect  them,  the  aspect 
is  of  little  account.  In  the  north  aspect,  fruits  are  very 
much  retarded  in  their  ripening;  and  this  circumstance 
may  be  turned  to  a  good  account  to  prolong  the  season 
of  some  late  cherries,  currants,  etc.  We  have  seen  fine 
Morellos  in  perfection  on  a  north  wall  here,  in  the  month 
of  September. 

The  distance  at  ichich  trees  should  he  planted  in  the 
garden. — This  will  not  be  the  same  in  all  cases ;  for  in  a 


THE   FRUIT   GARDEN.  217 

large  garden  It  is  not  necessary  to  plant  so  close  as  in  a 
very  small  one,  and  in  a  very  rich  and  deep  soil  a 
greater  distance  will  be  required  than  in  a  dry  and  light 
soil.  There  is  also  a  great  difterence  in  the  growth  of 
varieties.  Some  might  be  planted  at  six  feet  apart,  and 
have  as  much  space  in  proportion  as  others  would  at  eight. 
This  shows  that  no  rule,  as  regards  distance,  can  be 
observed  in  all  cases,  and  this  particularly  in  small  gar- 
dens, where  advantage  should  be  taken  of  every  circum- 
stance. In  large  gardens,  a  uniform  distance  may  be 
adopted,  even  if  some  space  be  sacrificed.  The  following 
distances  may  serve  as  a  general  guide,  and  may  be  in- 
creased or  diminished  according  to  circumstances  .• 

DISTANCE    IN   THE    OPEN    GROUND. 

Apples.— Pyva,m\ds,  on  free  stock,  ten  feet  apart ;  do.^ 
Doucin,  eight  feet  apart;  do.,  dwarf  standards  on  Doucin, 
ten  feet  apart ;  do.,  dwarf  bushes  on  Paradise,  five  or  six 
feet  apart. 

Pears. — Pyramids  on  free  stocks,  ten  to  twelve  feet 
apart;  do.,  on  quince,  ten  feet  apart;  do.,  dwarf  stand- 
ards on  quince,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart. 

Plums. — Dwarf  standards,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart ;  do., 
pyramids,  eight  to  ten  feet  apart. 

Cherries. — Pyramids,  Hearts,  and  Bigatreaus,  eight 
to  ten  feet  apart ;  do.,  Dukes  and  Morellos,  six  to  eight 
feet  apart ;  do.,  dwarf  bushes  of  Morellos,  five  to  six  feet 
apart. 

Apricots. — Dwarf  standard  on  plum,  eight  to  ten  feet 
apart;  do.,  pyramids,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 

Peaches. — Low  standards  on  peach,  ten  to  twelve  feet 
apart ;  do.,  on  plum,  eight  to  ten  feet. 

Nectarines. — Same  as  peaches. 

Quinces. — Pyramids  or  bushes,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 
10 


S18  PERMANENT   PLANTATIONS. 

Filberts,  six  to  eight  feet  apart. 

Gooseberries  and  Currants,  four  or  five  feet  apart. 

Maspberries,  two  to  three  feet  apart. 

Mr.  Rivers  gives  the  following  distances  in  his  "  Minia- 
ture Fruit  Garden  " : 

Pyramidal  Pear- Trees,  on  quince  stocks,  root-pruned 
for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  in  larger 
gardens,  not  root-pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Pear-Trees,  on  the  pear  stock,  root-pruned, 
six  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots  not  pruned,  eight  to  ten 
feet — the  latter  if  the  soil  be  very  rich. 

Horizontal  Espalier  Pear- Trees,  on  the  quince  stock, 
for  rails  or  walls,  fifteen  feet  apart. 

Upright  Espaliers,  on  the  quince  stock,  for  rails  or  walls, 
four  to  six  feet  apart. 

Horizontal  Espaliers,  on  the  pear  stock,  for  rails  or 
walls,  twenty  to  twenty-four  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Plum-Trees,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Plum-Trees,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Pyramidal  Apple-Trees,  on  the  Paradise  stock,  root- 
pruned  for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots 
not  pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Apple-Trees,  on  the  Paradise  stock,  fifteen  feet 
apart.  The  same,  on  the  crab  stock,  twenty  to  twenty- 
four  feet  apart. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  for  walls,  twenty  feet  apai't. 

Apricots  for  walls,  twenty-four  feet  apart. 

Cherries,  as  bushes  on  the  Mahal eb  stock,  roots  pruned 
for  small  gardens,  four  feet  apart.  The  same,  roots  not 
pruned,  six  feet  apart. 

Espalier  Cherry- Trees,  on  the  Mahaleb,  for  rails  or 
walls,  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  apart. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN.  219 

Oblique  Cordon  Trees,  of  .'ill  varieties,  tt\o  to  three 
feet  apart. 

Horizontal  Cordons,  of  all  varieties,  tea  to  twelve  feet 
apart. 

DISTANCES    FOR    ESPALIER    TREES  ON   WALLS  OR   TRELLISES. 

The  distances  between  espalier  trees  must  be  regulatel 
not  only  by  the  growth  of  the  species  and  variety,  but  by 
the  hight  of  tlie  walls  or  trellis.  If  these  be  low,  a 
greater  length,  of  course,  will  be  necessary  than  if  high ; 
for  every  tree  must  have  a  certain  extent  of  surface  to  be 
spread  upon.  Hence,  if  a  trellis  be  only  eight  feet  high, 
nearly  double  the  length,  and,  consequentl}',  double  the 
distance  between  the  trees,  will  be  required  that  would  be 
on  a  trellis  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  high.  As  a  general 
thing,  2)eac/ies,a2)ricots,  or  7iectarines,  on  walls  or  trellises 
eight  or  ten  feet  high,  should  be  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
apart,  if  on  free  stocks,  and  twelve  to  fifteen  if  dwarfed 
on  the  plum.  Cherries,  ten  to  twelve  feet.  Our  Native 
Grapes,  Isabella,  Cataioba,  etc.,  at  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
apart,  on  an  eight-foot-high  trellis.  Foreign  varieties  will 
not  require  half  this  ;  indeed,  tlie  better  way  is  to  keep 
these  trained  to  simple  stakes,  and  planted  in  the  border, 
where  their  out-door  culture  is  attempted.  In  this  way 
they  are  easily  laid  down  and  protected. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  APPLIED  TO  THE  DIF- 
FERENT SPECIES  OF  FRUIT-TREES  UNDER 
VARIOUS  FORMS. 

Section  1. — Pruning  the  Apple  and  the  Pear. 

These  two  trees  belong  to  the  same  genus,  Pyrus ; 
their  habits  of  growth  nnd  bearing  are  similar,  and  they 
may  therefore  be  treated,  as  regards  their  pruning,  under 
the  same  head. 

If  we  take,  for  example,  a  shoot  of  last  season  (fig.  7), 
we  find  it,  in  the  spring,  before  vegetation  commences, 
furnished  on  all  its  length  with  wood-buds;  when  growth 
commences,  the  terminal  bud,  and  probably  two  or  three 
of  the  others  nearest  to  it,  pi'oduce  shoots;  the  others  to- 
wards the  middle  ])roduce  small  shoots  that  are,  in  subse- 
quent years,  transformed  into  fruit  branches  (like  fig.  10). 
Some  do  not  pusli  at  all,  but  are  converted  into  fruit- 
buds  (as  in  figs.  8  and  9),  whilst  those  at  the  base  gener- 
ally remain  dormant,  iintil  excited  into  growth  by  close 
pruning.  All  the  buds  oa  these  trees  have  small,  incon- 
sf)icuous  buds  at  their  base,  which  are  capable  of  produc- 
ing shoots  when  the  principal  bud  is  destroyed  or  injured, 
and  these  buds  render  the  fruit-spurs  so  enduring.  In 
young  trees,  the  fiuit-buds  are  many  years  in  ])rocess  of 
formation,  and  in  bearing  trees,  three  to  four  years,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances.  When  the  trees  are  not  sub- 
jected to  pruning,  the  result  of  the  mode  of  growth 
described  is,  that  the  terminal  buds  grow  and  form  one 
section  upon  another,  leaving  the  lower  parts  mainly  dea- 


TUE   APPLE   AXD   TUE   PEAR.  221 

titute  of  bearing  wood,  unless  it  be  an  occasional  spur, 
the  sap  always  tending  to  the  points. 

Standards. — The  mnnagement  of  this  form  of  trees 
iias  been  fully  treated  of  in  all  our  works  on  fruit  culture, 
an.l  in  all  the  agricultural  and  horticultural  journals,  so 
that  now  it  is  pretty  well  understood,  and  especially  by 
those  who  give  considerable  attention  to  the  subject  of 
fruit-trees;  it  will  not  be  necessary,  therefore,  to  enter 
upon  much  detail  in  regard  to  it. 

A  standard  apple  or  j^ear  tree,  for  the  orchard,  when 
taken  from  the  nursery  to  be  finally  planted  out,  we  will 
suppose  to  have  a  straight,  stout  trunk,  four  to  six  feet 
in  hight,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  a  heaii  composed  of  a 
certain  number  of  shoots  or  brandies,  but  generally  shoots 
of  one  year's  growth.  At  the  time  of  planting,  three  or 
four  of  these  shoots  should  be  selected  to  form  the  main 
branches,  or  frame-work,  on  which  to  build  the  whole 
head,  and  the  remainder  cut  clean  out ;  those  reserved 
should  be  cut  back  full  one-half,  and  from  the  shoots  pro- 
duced 0:1  these,  at  and  b.  low  the  cut,  two  of  tie  strongest 
are  selected,  each  on  opposite  sides,  and  the  others  are 
rubbed  off  while  they  are  soft.  la  selecting  these  shoots, 
care  mu>t  be  taken  to  have  them  equally  distant  from  one 
another,  and  pointing  in  such  directions  as  not  to  cross  or 
interfere. 

During  the  fust  season,  these  young  shoots  must  be 
watched  and  kept  in  a  regular  state  of  vigor.  If  any 
threaten  to  become  too  vigorous,  they  must  be  pinched 
and  cheeked  at  once,  so  that  perfect  uniformity  be  pre- 
served. This  is  the  time  to  secure  a  well-formed  and 
nicely-balanced  head.  A  very  slight  circumstance  some- 
times throws  the  growth  into  one  side  or  one  branch  of  a 
young  tree,  and  produces  a  deformity  from  which  it  never 
recovers.  The  trunk  must  be  kept  clear  of  all  shoots,  by 
rubbing  off  such  as  appear  at  the  earhest  possible  moment, 
wlien  it  can  be  done  without  the  use  of  a  knife.     Suppos- 


222 


PKUNLNG. 


ing  we  commenced  the  head  with  three  branches  at  time 
of  planting,  there  will  be,  at  the  end  of  the  first  season, 
six. 

The  attention  required  after  this  will  be  to  maintain  an 
uniform  growth  among  these  six  branches,  and  their  mem- 
bers and  diWsions,  and  to  prevent  the  growth  of  shoots 
in  the  center.  The  leading  defect  in  all  our  orchard  trees 
is  too  much  wood,  the  heads  are  kept  bo  dense  with 
small  shoots  that  the  sun  and  air  are,  in  a  great  measure, 
excluded,  and  the  fruit  on  the  outside  of  the  tree  only 
is  marketable  or  fit  for  use.  The  head  should  be  kept 
open,  rather  in  the  form  of  a  vase,  so  that  the  wood, 
leaves,  blossoms  and  fruit  may  all,  on  every  part,  enjoy 
the  full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air,  without  which  they 
cannot  perform  their  functions,  or  attain  maturity  and 
perfection. 

Too  many  people  imagine  that  trees  can  take  care  of 
themselves,  as  trees  in  the  forest, 
on  the  ground  that  nature  pre- 
serves a  balance  in  all  her  works ; 
but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  a  fruit  tree  is  not  exactly  a 
natural  production.  It  is  far  re- 
moved from  the  natural  state  by 
culture,  and  the  farther  it  is  re- 
moved, that  is,  the  more  its  nature 
is  refined  and  improved,  the  more 
care  it  requires.  Fig.  108  repre- 
sents a  young  standard  pear  tree, 
stem  four  feet  high,  and  the  head 
twice  cut  back,  as  at  the  letters  a 
and  b. 

Pinehing. — If  this  be  properly 
attended  to,  very  little  knife  prun- 
ing will  be  necessary,  except  to  shorten  the  leading 
shoots,  because  as   soon  as  a    superfluous   or   misplaced 


fig.         108.— A       TOTTKG 
STANDARD   PEAR-TREE. 

Trank  4  feet  high ;  head  for- 
ward on  tliree  main  branch- 
es, twice  pruned  at  A  and  B. 


THE    APPLE    A^D    TUE    PEAR.  223 

shoot  api^ears,  it  is  rubbed  off,  and  when  one  becomes 
too  vigorous,  it  is  pinched  and  checked.  The  great  ad- 
vantage of  pinching  is,  that 

1st.  It  economizes  the  sap  of  the  tree.  That  which 
would  be  expended  on  superfluous  shoots  is  turned  to  the 
benefit  of  the  parts  reserved,  and  tlius  the  growth  is 
greatly  promoted. 

2d.  All  wounds  necessarily  inflicted,  where  knife-prun- 
ing is  depended  on,  are  completely  avoided.  These  facts 
should  be  rememberetl.  Standard  apples  and  pears  are 
not  generally  pruned  with  a.  view  to  hastening  their 
bearing,  but  are  allowed  to  arrive  at  that  state  in  their 
natural  way.  In  the  case  of  tardy-bearing  sorts,  how- 
ever, it  may  be  desirable  to  ap|>ly  artificial  means,  and 
these  will  be  pointed  out  in  treating  of  dwarfs  and  pyra- 
mids hereafter. 

Dicarf  Standards. — These  are  similar  to  standards, 
except  that  the  trunks  are  low,  not  over  two  or  three  feet 
in  hight,  and  the  head  is  retained  in  a  smaller  space. 
Their  management  is  always  much  easier  when  the  stocks 
are  such  as  to  dwarf  or  re>train  the  growth.  Thus, 
apples  on  the  Paradise  or  Douchi,  and  pears  on  the 
quince.  The  main  branches,  or  frame-work  of  the  head, 
are  produced  by  cutting  back  the  three  or  four  branches 
that  form  the  head  of  the  tree  as  it  comes  from  the 
jmrsery,  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  stand- 
ards. 

The  ^/irst  season,  all  superfluous  productions  are  rubbed 
oflT,  and  a  balance  maintained  among  the  shoots  by 
]>inching. 

The  second  year ^  in  the  winter  or  spring,  the  shoots  of 
last  season  are  shortened,  say  one-half,  as  a  general  thing. 
This  induces  the  development  of  the  buds  on  their  lower 
parts.  The  cut  is  made  at  a  good,  plump  bud,  capable 
of  producing  a  vigorous  shoot ;  and  this  is  selected  to 
prolong  the  branch.     If  one  or  two  secondary  branches 


224  PBUNINO 

are  needed  to  fill  up  a  space,  those  next  the  leader,  if 
properly  situated  to  fill  the  space,  are  chosen,  and  all  be- 
low them  are  pinched  when  about  two  or  three  inches 
long,  in  order  to  check  the  production  of  wood  where  it 
is  not  wanted,  and  to  convert  them  into  fruit  branches  or 
spurs.  The  growth  of  all  the  main  and  secondary 
branches  is  regulated  and  balanced  by  pinching  ;  and  if 
the  pinched  shoots,  intended  for  fruit  spurs,  start  again 
into  growth,  they  must  be  again  pinched. 

The  third  season,  the  shoots  of  the  previous  year  are  cut 
back  as  before,  say  to  four,  five,  or  six  eyes,  according  to 
their  strength.  One  shoot  is  chosen  to  continue  the  pro- 
longment  of  the  branch,  and  the  others  are  pinched  in 
season  to  convert  them  into  fruit  spurs.  Thus  the  tree  is 
conducted  from  year  to  year,  until  it  has  attained  the  full 
size  required.  In  this  wTay  the  trees  commence  bearing 
quite  young,  and  every  branch  is  furnished,  in  all  its 
length,  with  fruit  spurs. 

Pyramids. — Under  the  head  of  "the  selection  of  trees," 
it  has  been  recommended  to  obtain  thrifty  yearling  trees 
in  preference  to  older  ones,  not  properly  managed.  We 
will,  therefore,  begin  with  the  yearling  tree,  and  although 
the  management  of  the  first  year  after  cutting  back  has 
been  given  in  the  nursery,  it  may  be  well  to  repeat  it 
here,  to  save  the  reader  the  trouble  of  referring  back. 

Objects  of  cutting  back. — The  object  in  doing  this  is  to 
produce  branches  near  the  stock,  that  will  form  the  base 
of  the  future  pyramid.  If  left  entire,  the  tendency  of  the 
sap  to  the  extremities  would  produce  shoots  there  only, 
leaving  a  naked  space  entirely  inconsistent  with  the  form 
in  view.  We  therefore  reduce  the  stem  to  such  an  ex- 
tent, that  but  a  small  number  of  buds  are  left  on  it,  and 
the  sap,  acting  on  these  with  great  force,  causes  their 
development. 

How  far  to  cut  bach. — It  is  obvious  that  this  must  de. 
pend  on  the  character  of  the  subject.     In  yearling  plants, 


THE   APPLE   AND   THE   PEAR.  225 

both  of  the  pear  and  apple,  there  is  presented  a  great 
difference  in  different  varieties.  Some  invariably  pro- 
duce lateral  branches  the  first  season.  The  buds  are  so 
perfectly  developed,  that  Mhen  the  second  growth  takes 
place  in  mid-suniiner,  they  break,  and  form  branches,  in 
some  cases  as  much  as  a  foot  long,  and  in  others  only  a 
few  inches.  Then,  among  the  varieties  which  do  not  thus 
produce  side  branches  in  the  second  growth,  there  is  a 
great  difference  in  the  phmipness  and  prominence  of  the 
buds.  In  some  they  are  larger,  and  stand  out  boldly 
from  the  wood  on  the  whole  length  of  the  stem,  appa« 
rently  ready  to  push  imder  the  least  excitement.  In 
others  they  are  small,  lie  flat  to  the  wood,  and  have 
every  appearance  of  being  difficult  to  excite  into  growth, 
and  especially  those  towards  the  base.  It  should  always 
be  borne  in  mind  tb.at  it  is  better  to  cut  too  loxo  than  noi 
low  enough.  The  difficulty  of  cutting  too  low  is,  that  the 
shoots  produced  are  nearly  all  of  equal  length,  and  a 
certain  number  of  them  require  to  be  checked  to  give 
each  one  its  proper  dimensions.  The  difficulty  of  not 
cutting  low  enough  is,  that  where  we  should  have 
branches  at  the  base,  we  have  none,  or,  if  any,  they  are 
smaller,  instead  of  larger,  than  those  above  them.  The 
remedy  in  this  case  is  more  difficult  than  the  other.  The 
vigorous  shoots  at  the  summit  must  be  checked,  and  even 
the  leading  shoot,  in  order  to  throw  back  the  sap  into  the 
lower  parts,  to  act  upon  the  buds  there.  The  error 
Avhich  produces  such  a  difficulty  is  very  common,  as  we 
know  by  experience,  among  persons  not  familiar  with 
the  growth  of  young  trees  or  the  development  of  the 
buds  on  their  stems.  It  must  be  laid  down  as  a  general 
rule  that  the  more  feeble  the  plants  and  the  smaller  and 
the  more  imperfectly  developed  the  buds,  the  lower  it  is 
necessary  to  cut. 

The  condition  of  the  roots,  too,  must  be   taken  into 
account  J  for  where  the  roots  are  weak,  broken,  or  injured, 


226 


and  consequently  unfit  to  yield  to  the  stem  any  considera- 
ble amount  of  nutriment,  the  buds  will  break  with  less 
force,  and  a  more  severe  retrenchment  will  be  necessary. 
All  these  circumstances  must  be  consid- 
ered. For  example,  we  will  take  a  young 
pear-tree,  of  one  year's  growth  .from  the 
bud,  without  branches  (fig,  109),  Avhich 
we  will  suppose  to  be  four  feet,  whicli  is 
the  ordinary  average  hight  of  yearlings. 
If  the  buds  are  full  and  prominent  on  it, 
we  cut  to  a  good  bud,  about  twenty 
inches  from  tlie  stock  ;  but  if  the  buds 
are  less  prominent,  cut  to  fifteen  or 
eighteen  inches,  and  if  very  feeble,  with 
small  buds,  cut  to  within  twelve  inches. 
or  five  or  six  buds  of  the  stock.  If  tha 
roots  have  been  injured  much,  and  tl.e 
stem  somewhat  dried  or  shrivelled,  it 
should  be  cut  to  within  three  or  four 
buds  of  the  base.  These  difiV^rent  cases 
are  mentioned  because  it  frequently  han- 
pens  that  persons  who  live  at  a  greau 
distance  from  nurseries  often  find  their 
trees,  on  their  arrival,  in  the  condition  de- 
scribed, and  it  is  necessary  that  a  course 
of  treatment  for  them  should  be  indicated. 
The  bud  cut  to  should,  if  possible,  be  one 
of  the  best  on  the  stem,  and  be  on  the 
Fig.  107.  Bide  of  the  tree  opposite  that  in  which  the 

yearling  pear-  bud  was  inserted,   so  as  to  continue  the 
stem  in  a  straight  line. 

It  is  a  great  advantage  to  have  a  tree 
"I"  well  established  in  the  ground  before  cut- 
ting it  back,  to  produce  the  first  branches 
to  form  the  pyramid;  because,  in  that  condition,  it  is 
capable  of  producing  vigorous  shoots  the  first  season.     It 


tree  without  bran- 
dies. Tlie  cross- 
line  indicates  tlie 
first  pruning 
cutting  back. 


THE    APPLE    AND   THE    PEAR. 


227 


is  on  this  accmmt  that  a  young  tree,  cut  back  in  tlie  nur 
sery,  presents  a  much  more  perfect  form,  at  the  eix?  of  the 
second  year,  than  those  that  liave 
been  transplanted.  Some  good  cul- 
tivators advise  to  defer  the  cut- 
ting back  for  the  formation  of  the 
permanent  branches  until  the  plant 
has  stood  one  year  after  transj)lant- 
ing;  but  this  course  is  attended 
with  many  difficulties,  and,  on  the 
whole,  it  is  better  to  cut  back  when 
the  tree  is  planted,  even  if  we  ob- 
tain but  a  moderate  growth ;  for 
the  older  the  buds  arc  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  tree,  the  more  ol)stinate 
and  unmanageable  they  are.  If  we 
fail  to  accomplish  our  ends  in  tlie 
first  cutting,  we  can  repeat  it  the 
next  year. 

Pruning  the  Branched  Yearling. 
• — Among  trees  of  tliis  kind,  some 
have  brandies  a  foot  or  more  in 
length,  while  in  others  they  resem- 
ble short,  stiff  spurs,  two  to  four 
inches  long.  These  two  characters 
require  dilFei'ent  modes  of  treat- 
ment. Where  there  are  branches 
of  sufficient  force,  and  properly 
situated  to  form  the  first  series  of 
main  branches,  they  must  be  treat- 
-ed  in  the  same  manner  as  though 
the  tree  were  two  years  old.  The 
strongest  and  best  situated  are  selected  and  pruned  to  with- 
in four  to  six  inches  of  their  base,  according  to  their  vigor 
aiid  position  ;  the  lowest  should  not  be  more  than  six  inches 
txom  the  stock.     The  small,  feeble,  superfluous  ones  are  en- 


Fi,^-.  108. 
Yearling     pear-tree    with 
branches,  tliu  pruning  indi- 
cated by  the  cross-lines. 


228 


r'r.j^ijsa 


tirely  remove<l ;  tlic  leading  slioot,  which,  in  such  cases,  is 
short,  and  provided  with  phimp  Luds,  does  not  require  a 
heavy  shortening ;  in  most  cases, 
one  -  half  will  he  quite  sufficient. 
Figure  110  represents  a  tree  of  this 
kind  ;  the  ci'oss-lines  indicate  the  cuts. 
Where  the  lateral  branches  are  short 
and  spur-like,  they  Avill  rt'quire  veiy 
careful  treatment ;  the  strongest  and 
best  placed  are  reserved.  If  the 
lower  ones  have  good  terminal  buds, 
they  are  left  entire  ;  those  above  them 
are  shoitened,  the  lower  to  three, 
the  next  above  to  two,  and  the  up- 
pL-rmost,  next  the  leading  shoot,  to 
one  bud.  This  will  give  their  pro- 
ductions a  j^roper  relative  degree  of 
vigor.  The  leader  is  cut  back  fur- 
ther than  in  the  well-branched  sub- 
ject, because  it  is  presumed  the  buds 
are  less  excitable  —  as  a  general 
thing,  within  four  to  six  buds  of  the 
highest  lateral,  or  one-half  of  its 
length. 

Tliere  is  another  class  of  trees  neces- 
sary to  be  noticed  here,  because  they 
are  very  common — tioo-yjear-old  nur- 
sery trees  that  have  not  heeti  properly 
treated.  Figure  111  represents  a  tree 
Fig.  109.  Qf  ^Ijjg  liin,],     A  few  inches  only  of 

A  two-year-old  pear-tree,   , ,        ,  ,    ,  «•      ^    ^i 

not  cut  back  far  enou-h  the  top  Were  taken  oft  at  the  com- 
thefirstseason;  the  second  niencement    of    the     second     year's 

pruning,  to  produce  bran-  ,  ^      c         ,i      ,     •,  i   a.   j. 

ches  below,  is  indicated  by  growth,  and  after  that  it  was  left  to 
the  cros's-iine.  Itsclf.     Branches,  therefore,  were  pro- 

duced only  at  the  top,  leaving  a  vacant    space  of  two 
feet — the  very  part  that  should  have  produced  the  first 


THB   APPLE    AND   THE   PEAR.  229 

set  of  main  branches.  The  best  disposition  to  make  of 
such  trees  would  be  to  conduct  them  in  the  form  of 
dwarf  standards,  which  they  really  are  at  present ;  but  it 
happens  that,  in  some  cases,  it  is  desired  to  convert  them 
into  pyramids,  and  therefore  it  is  essential  that  the  proper 
means  be  pointed  out.  Two-year-old  trees,  like  yearlings, 
diifer  materially  in  the  cliaracter  of  the  buds  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  stem.  On  some,  these  are  quite  prominent,  so 
much  so  as  to  appear  to  have  made  some  advance  towards 
development,  while  in  others  they  are  quite  flat  and  dor- 
mant. It  is  obvious  that  trees  in  the  first  condition  will 
not  require  that  severe  retrenchment  on  the  head,  to  pro- 
duce branches  below,  as  the  last.  In  this  case  it  will 
generally  be  sufficient,  and  especiidly  if  the  space  be- 
tween the  stock  and  first  branches  does  not  exceed  two 
feet,  to  cut  back  the  leader  to  three  buds,  and  the  lateral 
branches  below  it  to  one  bud  ;  but  when  the  buds  are 
small  and  backward,  or  when  the  branchless  space  is  over 
two  feet  in  length,  the  two-year-old  wood  must  be  cut 
back  to  within  eighteen  inches  to  two  foist  of  the  base. 
The  formation  of  lateral  branches  is  encouraged  by  cut- 
ting notches  in  the  stem,  above  a  bud,  at  the  point  where 
the  branch  is  desired.  We  find  that  in  the  case  of  im- 
ported trees,  or  those  carried  a  great  distance,  and  more 
or  less  injured,  nothing  shoit  of  this  severe  cutting  can 
insure  branches  low  enough  to  form  a  pyramidal  tree. 
It  seems  a  great  pity  to  cut  back  a  tree  in  this  manner, 
and  lose  a  year  or  two  of  its  growth  and  bearing,  but  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  wlien  the  pyramidal  form  is  want- 
ed. There  is  still  another  class  of  trees  that  we  sometimes 
see  sent  out  from  the  nurseries.  These  are  two  or  three 
years  old  ;  have  been  cut  back,  and  are  pretty  well  fur- 
nished, in  all  their  lengtli,  Avith  lateral  branches,  but,  from 
the  want  of  proper  care,  those  on  the  upper  parts  have 
acquired  greater  vigor  than  those  below,  presenting  the 
tree  in  a  situation  j  ust  the  reverse,  in  this  respect,  of  what 


230  PRUNING. 

it  ought  to  be.  In  pruning  this  specimen  at  the  time  of 
planting,  the  lower  branches  must  either  be  shortened 
very  slightly,  in  order  to  get  a  strong  bud  for  a  leader, 
or  they  must  be  left  entire,  wiiile  those  above  will  be  cut 
close ;  where  we  want  the  longest  and  strongest  branches, 
there  we  leave  the  most  wood. 

The  most  important  pruning  performed  upon  a  tree  is 
the  Jirst  one,  for  it  is  t  is  which  makes  all  future  manage- 
ment easy  and  successful,  or  difficult  and  unsatisfactory. 
This  is  the  reason  why  it  has  appeared  necessary  to  treat 
of  it  so  minutely.  Having  encountered  all  the  difficulties 
that  others  are  likely  to  encounter,  and  having  described 
them  and  pointed  out  the  means  by  which  they  are  to  be 
overcome,  it  is  believed  that  the  matter  has  been  made  so 
plain,  that  any  man  of  ordinary  intelligence,  and  possess- 
ing the  slightest  knowledge  of  tieo  culture,  can  take  his 
knife  and  prepare  his  trees  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give 
him  a  most  reasonable  hope  of  attaining  his  ends.  We 
nov.'  proceed  to  the 

Summer  management  of  trees  thus  cut  bach — We  will 
first  consider  the  case  of  the  yearling  without  branches. 
If  it  has  been  cut  low  enough,  as  directed,  nearly  all  the 
buds  below  the  cut  will  push.  As  a  space  of  six  to  twelve 
inches  should  ba  kept  cle.ir  between  the  ground  and  the 
first  or  lowest  tier  of  branches,  such  shoots  as  may  ap[iear 
on  that  part  will  be  rubbed  off  at  once.  Of  the  re- 
maining ones,  a  certain  number,  three  to  six,  according  to 
the  length  of  the  stem,  will  bo  reserved.  These  must  be 
the  strongest,  and  properly  situated  on  the  stem,  wdthin 
eight  to  ten  inches  of  space  between  each  branch,  and 
that  immediately  above  it,  and  regularly  placed  on  all 
sides  of  the  stem.  Some  recommend  leaving  on  all  the 
shoots  that  are  produced  the  fii-st  season  ;  but  in  certain 
cases  this  would  be  bad  practice,  for  if  the  buds  be  very 
close,  the  shoots  would  be  so  numerous  that  the  strength 
of  all  would  be   impaired,  and   much   pruning    would 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR. 


231 


be  required  the  next  season.  The  better  way  is  to  select 
such  as  are  wanted,  and  rub  off  the  others  ;  the  sap  which 
tliey  would  Lave  appropriated  will  be  turned  to  the  ac- 
count of  the  permanent  branch- 
es, and  increase  their  vigor.  The 
leading  shoot  must  be  directed 
in  a  straight  line  ;  in  some  cases 
a  support  may  be  necessary.  If 
t'le  branches  immediately  below 
it  are  so  vigorous  as  to  inter- 
fere with  its  growth,  they  must 
be  checked  by  pinching.  In 
some  cases  it  may  be  necessary 
to  do  this  when  they  are  an 
inch  or  two  in  length.  It  some- 
times occurs  that  the  bud  cut 
to  is  injured  by  tlie  weather, 
close  cutting,  or  some  other 
cause,  and  pushes  so  feebly  tliat 
the  laterals  below  it,  having 
more  vigor,  take  the  lead.  This 
must  be  prevented  in  time.  A 
proper  relative  degree  of  vigor 
nmst  be  maintained  among  all 
the  branches  by  checking,  when 
necessary,  the  most  vigorous. 
The  first  summer's  treatment 
of  the  branched  yearling  (fig. 
11:2)  will  consist  in  maintain- 
ing a  uniform  growth  among 
the  lateral  branches,  and  in  the 
case  of  the  leading  shoot,  as  al- 
ready described.  Some  lateral 
shoots  will  be  pioduced  on  the  branches,  and  these  must 
all  be  pinched  at  an  inch  or  two,  as  it  is  yet  too  soon  to 
allow  of  the  formation  of  secondary  branches.     The  sum* 


Fig.  110. 
A  two-year-okl    {lear-tree,  hav- 
ing made  one  year's  growth  after 
the  first  pruning. 


232 


PBUNIWG. 


mer  treatment  of  the  two-year-old  tree,  fig.  110,  will  be 
conducted  on  the  same  principles.  The  encouragement 
of  the  leading  shoot  will  require  special  attention  to  se- 
cure it  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion, as,  in  many  cases, 
where  two-year-old  wood  is 
cut  back,  the  leading  shoots 
assume  a  horizontal  or 
curved  direction. 

The  Second  Pruning. — 
"We  have  now  a  tree  com- 
posed of  two  sections;  the 
first  is  the  two  -  year  -  old 
part,  furnished  with  lateral 
branches;  and  the  second, 
the  leading  shoot  produced 
last  season  (fig.  113).  In 
pruning  it,  our  object  will 
be  to  establish  a  new  sec-, 
tion  of  branches  on  the 
leader,  to  continue  the  pro- 
longment  of  the  lower 
branches,  and  to  induce  the 
formation  of  fruit  -  spurs 
towards  their  base.  To  ac- 
complish these  ends,  we 
shorten  the  leader  or  stem, 
on  the  same  principle,  in  re- 
lation to  its  character,  as 
already  directed  for  the 
yearling  trees,  fi'om  one- 
half  to  two-thirds  its  length, 
indicated  and  sometimes  more.  Every 
bud  between  the  one  we 
cut  to  and  the  base  of  the  shoot,  should  push ;  and  the 
bud   to   produce  the    leader   should   be  large,   perfectly 


Fig.  111. 

Pear-tree     three     years     old,   twice 
pruned;  the  third  prunin 
by  the  cross-lines. 


THE  APPLE  AND  THE  PEAR.  233 

formed,  and  opposite  the  cut  of  the  previous  year.  The 
lateral  branches  on  the  first  section  are  shortened  ac- 
cording to  their  vigor,  always  remembering  that  the 
lowest  must  be  the  longest,  to  carry  out  the  pyramidal 
form.  They  should  also  be  cut  back  sufficiently  to 
insure  the  growth  of  all  the  buds  on  them.  This  point 
requires  considerable  care,  for  if  not  cut  back  enough, 
the  interior  of  the  trees  becomes  naked,  instead  of  being 
supplied  with  shoots  for  bearing  spurs;  and  if  cut 
back  too  far,  the  shoots  will  be  too  vigorous  and  diffi- 
cult to  control.  The  appearance  of  the  buds,  and  habits 
of  the  variety,  will  be  a  sufficient  guide,  if  properly 
studied.  The  lowest  branch  on  the  left-hand  side  of  fig. 
113,  having  filled  to  attain  its  proportionate  growth,  will 
be  left  entire,  or  nearly  so. 

Treatment  of  the  growing  shoots. — When  the  buds  have 
all  started,  and  made  a  growth  of  an  inch  or  two,  their 
force  and  forwardness  will  indicate  tlie  uses  to  be  made 
of  them.  Each  of  the  main  branches  of  the  first  section 
may  be  considered  as  a  stem ;  its  leader  will  require  the 
same  treatment  to  favor  its  extension.  At  this  time  a 
secondary  branch  may  be  required  to  fill  up  the  space, 
which  widens  as  the  branches  extend.  If  so,  a  shoot  is 
selected  for  this  purpose,  and  all  the  others  on  the  same 
branch  are  checked  at  two  inches,  and  converted  into  fruit 
branches.  All  the  laterals  are  treated  in  this  way.  The 
second  section,  now  in  process  of  formation,  must  be 
managed  as  directed  for  the  first  section.  During  the 
first  season,  the  requisite  number  of  shoots  is  preserved, 
and  the  superfluous  ones  removed  early.  The  leader  is 
maintained  erect ;  and  the  laterals  immediately  below  it, 
being  always  inclined  to  vigorous'  growth,  must  be  checked 
to  keep  them  in  a  proper  condition,  relative  to  the  leader 
and  the  branches  below  them.  The  leading  shoot  must 
always  maintain  its  preeminence.  It  often  happens  that 
the  lateral  shoots  of  the  main  branches  that  have  been 


234 


pinched  will  start  and  grow  again.  In  such  cases  another 
pinching  must  be  performed  within  an  inch  of  the  previ- 
ous one.  As  a  gen- 
eral thing,  this  will 
be  sufficient ;  but  if 
not,  a  third  must  be 
given  in  the  same 
way  ;  for  if  they  be 
allowed  to  extend 
into  wood  branches, 
they  will  require 
knife-pruning,  and 
create  confusion 
among  all  parts  of 
the  tree.  A  very 
general  error  in  con- 
ducting trees  of 
this  kind,  and  in- 
deed all  others,  is  to 
allow  the  bi-anches 
to  be  too  close  to 
each  other,  so  that 
when  they  come  to 
bear,  the  wood,  foli- 
age, and  fruit,  on  the 
interior,  are  so  ex- 
cluded from  the  air 
and  light  that  they 
all  suiFer.  The  fruit 
is  imperfect,  and  the 
spurs  become  feeble, 
and  gradually  per- 
ish. The  tree  has 
now  two  branched 
sections,  each  fi-om 
twelve  inches  to  two  feet,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  with 


112. 


Pear-tree  four  years  old,  tlirce  times  pruned; 
cross-linea  indicate  the  fourth  prniiiiis;  will  now 
be  in  a  bearing  state. 


THE    APPLE   AND   THE   PEAR.  235 

four  to  six:  branches  on  each ;  the  leading  shoot  is  from 
one  to  three  feet  in  length. 

The  average  hight  of  three-year-old  trees,  on  the 
quince,  in  our  grounds,  transplanted  at  one  year  old,  and 
twice  pruned,  is  five  to  six  feet.  A  few  very  vigorous- 
growing  varieties,  that  throw  up  a  leader  every  season 
three  to  four  feet  in  length,  are  seven  to  eight  feet ;  but 
these  are  comparatively  few  in  number. 

Third  Pruning. — This  is  done  on  precisely  the  same 
principles  laid  down  for  the  second.  The  leader  of  the 
stems  is  cut  back  in  proportion  to  its  vigor ;  the  lateral 
branches  are  also  shortened  in  the  same  manner.  It 
must  always  be  kept  in  mind  that  the  lowest  branches 
must  be  longest ;  and  when  it  happens  that  tliey  do  not 
take  their  due  proportion  of  vigor,  as  compared  with 
those  above  them,  and  if  pinching  has  not  been  duly  at- 
tended to  the  past  summer,  to  maintain  regularity,  the 
weaker  must  now  be  favored  with  a  long  pruning. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  the  habits  of  growth  and 
bearing  of  the  pear  and  apple  are  similar,  but  it  should 
be  noted  that,  in  treating  them  as  pyramids,  the  apple- 
tree  is  more  liable  to  lose  its  vigor  at  the  top,  and  there- 
fore it  is  necessary  to  keep  an  eye  to  this  point  in  their 
management.  From  what  has  been  said  with  reference 
to  an  equal  distribution  of  tlie  sap,  the  remedy  for  this 
difficulty  will  be  obvious,  viz.,  to  reduce  the  vigor  of  the 
lower  parts  by  pinching,  shortening,  and  heavy  crops, 
and  to  favor  the  upper  part  by  long  pruning  and  thin- 
ning, or  wholly  removing  the  fruits. 

Management  of  the  Fruit  Branches. — About  the  sixth 
to  the  eiglith  year,  from  the  first  pruning  of  the  tree,  it 
will  have  attained  nearly  as  great  dimensions  as,  in  many 
cases,  will  be  desirable,  and  be  well  furnished  with  fruit 
branches. 

After  tliis  period,  the  object  of  the  pruning  will  be  to 
prevent  the  extension  of  the  tree,  and  maintain  the  fruit- 


236 


pRUNiira. 


bearing  parts  in  a  healthy  and  productive  state.  Without 
proper  care  they  will  be  liable  to  suffer  from  bearing  too 
much,  or  from  the  growth  of  young  wood  on  the  ex- 
tremities of  youne' 
branches. 

To  diminish  the 
growth,  and  favor 
the  fruit  branches, 
the  young  shoots 
must  be  pruned 
shorter  than  before, 
in  order  to  turn  the 
sap  more  to  the  ben- 
efit of  the  fruits,  and 
when  the  fruit-spurs 
become  too  numer- 
ous, so  as  to  be  too 
near  one  another, 
and  produce  more 
fruit  than  the  tree 
can  sustain  with 
safety,  a  portion  of 
them  must  be  pruned 
off.  The  lower  parts 
always  experience 
this  difficulty  first, 
the  sap  circulating 
more  slowly  there 
than  in  the  summit. 
Fruit  -  spurs  of  the 
pear  and  apple,  if 
well  managed,  con- 
tinue in  a  vigorous  bearing  state  for  a  great  many  years. 
To  renew  and  prolong  their  vigor,  the  older  paits  must, 
from  time  to  time,  be  cut  away,  and  new  productions 
created  at  their  base  to  take  their  place. 


Fig.  113.— I'YKAMl 


TKAININCi    COMPLETE. 


THK   APPLE    AND   THE    PEAK,  237 

Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Apple  as  a  Dwarf 
on  the  Paradise  stock. 

Nothing  is  more  simple  than  the  treatment  of  tliese  little 
bushes. 

They  should  have  short  stems,  six  to  eight  inches  from 
the  ground,  and  the  head  should  not  be  allowed  to  exceed 
three  to  three  and  a  half  feet  in  hight,  because  the  roots 
are  very  small,  and  do  not  take  such  a  firm  hold  of  the 
ground  as  to  admit  of  a  head  that  would  oifer  much  ob- 
stacle to  the  wind.  The  branches  should  be  evenly  distrib- 
uted around  the  head,  open  in  the  center,  in  the  form  of 
a  vase,  and  be  furnished  in  all  their  parts  with  bearing 
spurs. 

These  are  the  points  to  aim  at  in  commencing  the  for- 
mation of  these  trees.     The  proceedings  are  as  follows  : 

First  Pruning. — We  will  suppose  that  the  subject  is  a 
yearling  bud  or  graft,  a  single  shoot  eighteen  to  twenty 
inches  in  hight.  In  this  case,  the  stem  is  cut  back  to  the 
point  where  it  is  intended  to  form  the  head,  six  to  ten 
inches,  as  the  case  may  be,  from  the  stock.  Below  this, 
most  of  the  buds  will  start  and  form  shoots,  from  which 
we  select  three  or  four  of  the  strongest  and  best  situated, 
equally  distant,  if  possible,  around  the  stem,  and  rub  or 
pinch  off  all  the  others.  The  growth  of  the  branches  thus 
selected  for  a  head,  is  encouraged  during  the  first  season, 
by  keeping  down  all  other  productions  that  may  appear. 

Second  Pruning. — The  tree  has  now  three  or  four 
branches  destined  to  be  the  basis  of  the  framework  of  the 
head.  These  branches  are  cut  back  full  one  half  their  length, 
according  as  the  buds  in  the  variety  are  easily  excited  or 
not,  the  object  being  to  induce  all  the  buds  below  the  cut 
to  push.  After  growth  has  commenced,  and  an  inch  or 
two  of  new  Avood  been  made,  the  shoot  from  the  bud  cut 
to,  will  be  chosen  as  a  leader  to  continue  the  extension  of 
tlie  branch  ;  and  if  secondary  branches  are  wanted,  they 
will  be  chosen  from  those  best  situated,  to  fill  up  the  ex- 


238 


isting  vacancies.  All  tlie  other  shoots  are  pinched  when 
two  or  three  inches  long,  to  convert  them  into  fruit  spurs, 
and  to  prevent  their  interfering  with  the  growth  of  the 
wood  branches.  If  one  pinching  is  not  sufficient,  another 
must  he  given  in  the  same  way  as  recommended  for  pyram- 
idal trees.  Indeed,  the  whole  process,  as  far  as  it  goes, 
is  the  same ;  but  the  same  efforts  are  not  necessary  to 
maintain  an  equal  distribution  of  the  sap,  for  the  tree  is 
so  low,  and  the  form  so  natural,  that  no  branch  is  more 
favorably  situated  than  another;  and  hence  they  are 
easily  kept  in  a  uniform  state  of  vigoi-.  The  branches  of 
'rregular-growing  sorts  will  require  to  be  secured  by 
stakes  in  their  proper  places  for  a  year  or  two  at  first, 
until  they  have  assumed  a  permanent  position. 

The  third  and  all  subsequent  prunings  Avill  be  con- 
ducted on .  the  same  principles  as 
the  first  and  second,  already  de- 
scribed, until  the  tree  has  attained 
its  full  size.  Fig.  114  represents 
a  dwarf  apple-tree,  four  years  old, 
three  times  pruned ;  the  two  last 
prunings  are  indicated  by  the  let 
ters  a  and  h. 

Management  of  the  Bearing 
Tree. — In  most  cases  the  apple  on 
the  Paradise  is  disposed  to  ex- 
cessive fruitfulness,  and  iinless  the 
fruit  branches  be  occasionally 
thinned  and  shortened,  in  order 
to  reduce  the  number  of  bearing 

■x      -I  -\    ,  1  T      coiiiposecioi  lour  main  Drancnt'S 

buds,  and   to    produce  new   wood,    and  several  secondary  branches: 

the  tree  becomes  enfeebled.     Bad  pruned  three  times,  as  at  a,  6, 

■^.„„„     „.„„    4.      c  ii,*     1  •     11  now  in  a  bearing  state. 

management  ot  this  kmd  has  pro- 
mulgated the  belief  that  the  apple  on  the  Paradise  is  ex- 
ceedingly short-lived;  but  the  fact  tliat  plantations  exist 
in  the  most  perfect  vigor  at  the  end  of  twelve  to  fifteeo 


Fig  114. 

Dwarf  apple-tree,  four  years 
old,  stem  ten  inches  liigh,  head 
composed  of  four  main  branches 


THE  APPLE  AND  THK  PEAK. 


239 


yeat-s  after  planting,  shows  that  by  proper  treatment 
their  existence  is  not  so  fleeting.  The  spurs  must  be 
managed  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  described  in  tieat- 
ing  of  pyramids,  to  renew  them,  and  the  slender  fruit 
branches  must  be  shortened.  This,  in  addition  to  the 
manuring  to  be  hereafter  described,  constitutes  the  sub- 
stance of  their  management. 

Tixe  Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Apple  and  Pear 
as  Espaliers. — In  the  cool,  moist  climate  of  England,  this 
is  a  popular  and  advantageous  method  of  training  apples 
and  pears.  The  specimens  of  this  kind  in  public  and  pri- 
vate gardens  there,  are  admirable  in  their  way,  and  illus« 
trate  the  skill  and  handiwork  of  the  English  gardener 
very  favorably.  The  best  espalier  for  the  apple  and  pear 
is  that  of  the  'lorizotital,  that  is,  an  upright  central  stem,  with 


Fig.  115— PEA  u- 


KEK    TKAINEl 


)KIZONTALLY. 


horizontal  arms  or  branches  at  equal  distances  on  both 
sides  (fig.  115).  The  production  of  this  tree  depends  i» 
the  main  on  the  same  principles  as  the  ])yramid,  and  does 
not  require  illustration.  The  young  tree  is  cut  back  to 
within  six  inches  of  the  ground.  From  the  shoots  pro- 
duced below  that  point,  three  are  selected,  the  upper  one 
to  form  the  upright  leader  or  stem,  and  two  lateral  or 
side  ones  to  form  the  two  first  arms.  The  first  season 
these  shoots  are  allowed  to  grow  upright  and  are  kept  in 
equal  vigor.     At  the  commencement  of  the  second  season 


240  ,  PRUNING. 

they  are  all  cut  back  far  enough,  say  one  third  to  one 
half  their  length,  or  even  more  in  some  cases,  to  insure 
the  growth  of  all  the  buds. 

The  upper  shoot  on  each  is  selected  for  a  leader,  and  the 
others  are  pinched  at  two  inches  or  less.  After  the  pru- 
nint',  the  arms  are  brought  down  half  way  to  a  horizontal 
position,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  season,  wholly. 
A  uniformity  of  growth  among  all  the  parts  is  main- 
tained according  to  the  means  and  principles  already  laid 
down,  and  year  after  year  the  tree  is  thus  treated  until 
the  requisite  hight  and  number  of  horizontal  arms  or 
branches  be  obtained.  In  the  case  of  very  vigorous 
growing  sorts  the  leader  may  be  stopped  in  June,  and 
thus  a  second  pair  of  arms  be  produced  in  one  year.  The 
upright  leader  and  the  branches  are  treated  in  a  similar 
manner — a  difference  in  vigor  always  requiring  a  corre- 
sponding difference  in  treatment.  For  espaliers,  the  apple 
should  be  on  the  Paradise  or  Doucin,  and  the  pear  on  the 
quince,  because  these  stocks  all  diminish  the  vigor  of 
wood  growth,  which  is  often  the  chief  difficulty  in 
managing  trained  trees. 

The  aspect  for  these  trees  should  never  be  due  south.  A 
railing  to  train  such  trees  on,  is  made  of  upright  posts 
sunk  in  the  ground,  and  connected  with  cross-bars,  at 
eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  upon  which  the  arras  of  the 
espalier  are  fastened  with  willow  or  bass  matting.  Mr. 
Rivers,  in  his  "  Miniature  Fruit  Garden,"  exhibits  a  sys- 
tem of  growing  pears  in  espalier,  in  the  form  of  pyramids, 
as  adopted  by  himself  I  saw  these  trees  when  in  Eng- 
land, in  1849,  and  although  it  appeared  a  very  ingenious 
and  economical  arrangement,  admitting  a  great  number  of 
varieties  in  a  small  space,  and  besides  very  well  adapted 
to  an  English  climate,  yet  it  did  not  appear  to  offer  any 
advantages  that  would  warrant  its  recommendation  in 
this  country,  unless  under  rare  circumstances  in  the  most 
northern  sections.     Whoever  will  study  attentively  the 


THE    PEAK.  241 

means  described  for  conducting  a  pyramid,  can  succeed 
fully  in  training  the  espaliers  or  wall  pyramid. 

THE  PEAK  IN  WINE-GLASS  FORM. 

Captain  Wm.  K.  Austin,  of  Dorchester,  Mass.,  has  very 
successfully  adopted  a  method  of  training  his  dwarf  pear- 
trees,  which  he  calls  the  "  wine-glass  pattern."  Hovey's 
Magazine  of  Horticulture,  February,  1865,  contained  a 
full  account  of  this  method  of  training  by  Captain  A. 
himself,  and  I  extract  from  that  the  following  condensed 
statement : 

"  I  take  good,  thrifty  dwarf  trees,  say  two  years  from 
the  bud  ;  I  set  them  out  in  April,  eight  feet  apart,  in 
rows,  and  the  rows  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  apart.  I  cut 
off  tlie  top,  or  head  it  back,  cutting  out  the  center  leader, 
if  any,  and  prepare  the  tree  for  a  low  start.  The  fiist 
season  the  growth  is  usually  small,  but  the  8ec(»nd  spring 
(a  year  from  planting)  they  are  prepared  to  start  vigor- 
ously, and  must  be  headed  back  or  cut  in,  and  the  tree 
formed  this  second  summer  into  the  form  you  desire  it  to 
take.  A  certain  number  of  leaders,  ten  or  twelve,  may 
be  allowed  to  grow,  the  lower  ones  about  eighteen  inches 
from  the  ground,  with  a  clean  stem  below  that. 

"Nothing  but  these  leaders  are  allowed  to  grow — no 
central  leader,  but  all  equally  distributed.  All  side  shoots 
and  spray  are  kept  down  by  nipping  or  cutting  off  with 
very  light  shears,  leaving  always  three  or  four  leaves  at 
the  base  of  the  twig. 

"These  leaders,  having  all  the  sap,  grow  fast,  and  must 
be  topped,  when  too  long,  about  the  10th  of  July,  or 
sooner,  if  necessary,  to  check  and  concentrate  the  ener- 
gies of  the  tree,  and  stock  it  up.  This  may  have  to  be 
repeated  more  than  once,  but  if  topped  too  early,  the 
tendency  is  to  throw  out  more  side  shoots,  and  increase 
the  labor.  After  the  10th  or  middle  of  July,  the  growth 
11 


242  PRUNING. 

becomes  sluggish  during  the  hot  weather,  and  if  in  the 


Fii^.    116.— PEAU-TIIEE   TKAINED   IN   AVINE-GLASS  FORM. 

fall  they  start  to  growing  again,  the  same  process  must 
be  repeated,  and  thus  all  the  pruning  is  done  during  the 
growing  season. 


COKDON  TRAIMNG.  243 

"  This  being  done  each  year,  the  tree  is  constantly  in 
shape ;  no  saw  is  required  to  remove  large  limbs  and 
waste  its  enei-gies,  and  no  sap  lost  in  superfluous  growth. 
The  wood  being  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  ripens  well, 
and  predisposes  to  the  production  of  fruit  spurs  and 
buds,  and  thus  early  bearing  is  secured," 

I  saw  these  trees  of  Caj)tain  Austin's  not  long  ago,  and 
was  delighted,  not  only  with  the  symmetry,  regularity, 
and  naturalness  of  their  form,  but  with  their  vigor, 
health,  and  productiveness. 

It  is  really  a  model  pear  garden.  The  system  is  exactly 
that  pureued  by  the  French  in  the  management  of  their 
"  cordons,"  and  Captain  Austin's  "leaders"  are  "  cordons." 
His  "  wine-glass "  trees  are  like  the  French  "  vase,"  or 
"  goblet,"  but  less  artificial.  Captain  Austin  does  not  tie 
or  restrain  the  branches  in  any  way,  but  leaves  them  free 
to  spread  after  their  natural  habit,  and  that  is  one  feature 
of  the  system  that,  in  my  opinion,  adds  much  to  its  value. 

CORDON   TRAINING. 

M.  Dubreuil  says  that,  "  with  all  the  progress  we  have 
made  in  arboriculture,  in  the  employment  of  means  for 
the  speedy  attainment  of  certain  ends,  it  still  requires  six- 
teen to  eighteen  years  to  perfect  the  form  of  an  espalier 
pear-tree  in  any  of  the  large  designs,  such  as  palmette, 
fan,  etc.,  which  cover  from  thirty  to  sixty  square  feet  of 
wall  (eighteen  to  twenty  metres). 

"Add  to  this  the  labor,  care,  and  skill  required  to  obtain 
these  forms  in  perfection,  and  the  means  necessary  to 
maintain  an  equal  growth  and  vigor  between  the  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  tree,  objects  which  are  so  complicated 
that  a  large  number  of  gardeners  fail  in  their  execution. 

"  Struck  by  these  difficulties,  we  have  sought  to  remedy 
them  by  suggesting  a  new  form  which,  much  less  difficult 
to  establish  than  any  of  the  others,  permits  the  surface  of 


244 


PRUNING. 


a  wall  to  be  covered  much  sooner,  and  brings  the  trees 
into  full  bearing  at  a  much  earlier  period,  without  abridg- 
ing their  duration.  We  have  given  to  this  new  method, 
invented  by  us,  for  the  pear,  in  1852,  the  name  of '  Cordon 
Oblique  Simple.'     Its  application  is  made  as  follows : 

"  Take  young  trees,  one  year  from  the  graft  or  bud, 
liealthy  and  vigorous,  having  single  stems;  plant  about 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  incline  one  from  the  other, 
at  an  angle  of  about  60°. 

"Each  one  is  cut  back  one-third  its  length,  above  a 
bud,  in  front,  as  at  A,  fig.  117.  During  the  summer  fol- 
lowing, the  development  of 
the  terminal  shoot  is  favored 
as  much  as  possible,  and  all 
the  others  are  transformed 
into  fruit  branches  or  spurs  by 
the  aid  of  these  operations, 
recommended  for  the  same 
purpose,  in  training  the  pear 
as  a  pyramid.  In  the  spring 
following,  each  of  these  young 
trees  presents  the  aspect  of 
fig.  118. 

"  The  second  pruning  con- 
sists in  applying  to  each  of 
the  lateral  branches  the  care 
necessary  to  transform  them 
into  fruit-spurs,  and  to  cut 
back  one-third  the  new  terminal  shoot.  The  sunimer 
treatment  will  be  like  that  of  the  preceding. 

"At  the  third  pruning,  the  young  stem  should  ordina- 
rily attain  two-thirds  its  entire  length,  when  it  should 
be  brought  down  to  an  angle  of  45°  Avith  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  and  the  terminal  shoot  and  laterals  are  subjected 
to  the  same  operations  as  in  previous  seasons.  If  these 
trees  had  been  brgught  down  at  first  to  an  angle  of  45°,  itj 


Fig.    117.— OBLIQUE    CORDON 
PEAK — FIRST   TEAR. 


CORDON  TRAINING. 


245 


would  have  promoted  the  growth  of  strong  superfluous 
shoots  at  the  base,  to  the  detriment  of  the  terminal  shoot. 

"  To  complete  these  trees,  it  remahis  only  to  continue 
to  prolong  the  stem,  by  means  of  the  operations  described, 
until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  wall. 
Having  reached  that,  the  stems  are 
cut,  each  year,  about  fifteen  inches 
below  the  coping  of  the  wall,  in  order 
to  make  place  for  the  annual  growth 
of  a  vigorous  shoot,  which  will  cause 
the  sap  to  circulate  freely  through 
the  whole  extent  of  the  stem." 

"  As  to  the  side  of  the  horizon  to- 
wards which  the  tree  should  be  in- 
clined, this  is  a  matter  of  no  import- 
ance where  the  walls  run  east  and 
west ;  but  for  those  north  and  south, 
the  stems  should  be  inclined  to  the 
south;  the  fruit  branches  on  the 
lower  sides  will  thus  be  better  ex- 
posed to  the  light.  It  is  recommend- 
ed, however,  that  where  the  walls  are 
situated  on  sloping  ground,  the  trees 
should  be  inclined  towards  the  summit 
of  the  slope,  otherwise  they  would 
attain  the  top  of  the  wall  too  soon. 

"  The  trees  being  planted  about  eighteen  inches  apart, 
it  results  that  the  espalier,  when  complete,  is  composed  of 
branched,  lying  parallel,  with  a  space  of  about  a  foot  be- 
tween them,  as  in  fig.  119. 

"  The  espaliers,  trained  in  this  form,  can  be  completed 
in  five  years,  whereas,  by  other  methods,  it  would  require 
ten  or  twelve. 

"  They  may  begin  to  fruit  the  fourth  year,  and  be  in  full 
bearing  the  sixth,  while  twenty  years  would  be  required 
by  the  other  methods. 


Fig.  118.— OBLIQUE  COK- 

DON    PEAR — SECOND 

TEAR. 


346 


"Another  advantage  of  importance  is,  that  on  the  same 
extent  of  wall  required  for  an  espalier  of  the  large  kind, 
you  can  have  a  great  many  cordons,  each  of  which  may 
be  a  different  variety,  thus  greatly  increasing  the  interest 
of  the  plantation. 

"  Besides,  if  a  large  espalier  tree  dies,  it  makes  a  great 
blank  on  a  wall,  and  requires  a  quarter  of  a  century  to 


Fitr.  119.- 


)liI)ON    I'EAU-TUEES. 


replace  it ;  but  if  a  cordon  dies,  the  blank  is  a  small  one, 
and  very  soon  filled  up  with  a  new  tree. 

"The  following  objections  have  been  urged  against  this 
form  : 

"It  has  been  feared  that  keeping  the  tree  in  such  a 
small  space  will  induce  such  vigorous  growth  as  to  pre- 
vent fruitfulness  ;  but  this  vigor  being  in  proportion  to 
the  extent  of  surface  of  the  soil  to  which  the  roots  have 
access,  and  these  being  only  eigliteen  inches  apart,  this 
fi'ar  must  be  groundless. 

"  It  has  also  been  suggested  that  trees  so  near  one  an- 
other could  not  live;  but  as  the  stem  and  branches  of  the 
trees  are  to  correspond  with  the  extent  of  soil  accessible 
to  the  roots,  there  can  be  no  force  in  this  objection. 


TEELLISES. 


247 


"  It  is  farther  objected  that  the  cordon  espalier  is  more 
expensive  than  one  in  the  old  method.  This  is  true,  as 
regards  first  expense  ;  but  against  this,  the  operations  of 
pruning  are  much  more  rapidly  executed.  TVe  can  ob- 
tain a  full  crop  of  fruit  from  the  cordon  in  six  years, 
whereas  it  would  take  sixteen  or  twenty  by  the  old 
method.  The  crop  of  ten  seasons  Avould  certainly  pay 
many  times  the  extra  expense  of  the  first  planting. 

"  Finally,  it  is  said  that  to  give  sufficient  space  to  the 
stem  of  these  trees,  the  Avails  must  be  of  a  certain  hight. 
This  is  true;  but  it  will  suffice. if  the  minimum  hight  be 
nine  feet.  We  conclude,  then,  that  for  walls  at  least 
nine  feet  high,  the  simple  oblique  cordon  is  to  be  pre- 
terred ;  for  walls  of  less  elevation,  the  old  palmette,  or 
fan." 

TRELLISES. 


The  most  simple  trellis  on  which  to  train  pear  trees  in 
this  method  is  that  illustrated  by  fig.  120.     For  a  wall  of 


TKELLIS    FOR   OBLIQtTE  CORDON. 


five  feet  elevation,  three  transverse  pieces,  solidly  fixed 
against  the  wall,  then  a  series  of  laths  nailed  to  the  trans- 


248 


PRUNING. 


verse  pieces,  a  foot  apart,  and  inclined  at  an  angle  of  45°. 
Each  of  these  laths  will  be  a  conductor  for  the  stem  of 
the  young  tree.  Galvanized  wire  may  be  used  instead 
of  lath. 

Section  2. — Pruning  and  Training  the   Quince. 


As  ordinarily  grown,  the  quince  is  the  most  neglected, 
and,  consequently,  the  most  unsightly,  deformed  tree  to  be 
found  in  the  orchard  or  garden,  and  yet,  when  well  treat- 
ed, it  is  really,  both  when  in  blossom  and  in  fruit,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  our  fruit  trees.  Its  fruit  is  more 
esteemed,  and  more  generally  used  in  this  than  in  any 
other  country.  It  is  naturally  a  crooked  or  spreading 
bush,  and  without  some  attention  to  pruning  and  training 
when  young,  it  assumes  an  irregular  form,  branching  near 
the  ground,  and  quite  destitute  of  bearing  wood  on  all  its 

lower  and  interior 
parts.  It  is  in  this 
neglected  form  we 
most  generally  find  it. 
To  make  a  regular 
and  handsome  little 
tree,  we  have  only, 
in  the  first  place,  to 
rear  a  straight  and 
stout  trunk  about  two 
or  three  feet  high. 

If  the  plants  be 
weak  or  crooked  when 
planted,  they  should 
be  cut  low  down  to 
obtain  a  stout  and 
straight  stem.  The 
young  shoot  should  be 
kept  tied  up  to  a  stake  to  prevent   it  from    straggling. 


Fig.  131. 
B,  fruit  branch  of  the  quince;  C,  tlie  slioot 
produced  from  the    fruit-bed;     .4,  point    at 
which  it  should  be  cut  bacli  after  bearins:. 


THE    CHERRY.  249 

The  second  year,  if  the  growth  lias  been  vigorous,  and 
low  trees  are  desired,  the  head  may  be  commenced.  But 
if  a  stem  three  or  four  feet  liigli  be  desired,  it  should  be 
at  least  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  another  year's  growth 
may  be  necessary. 

The  liead  is  formed  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for 
standard  and  dwarf  apples  and  pears.  It  should  be  round, 
symmetrical  and  open,  and  well  furnished  on  all  parts 
with  bearing  wood. 

The  bearing  branches  or  spurs  of  the  quince  are  small 
twiggy  shoots  {B,  fig.  121),  produced  on  wood  at  least 
two  years  old.  These  bear  two,  three,  or  more  fruit  buds. 
These  produce  shoots  two  or  three  inches  long  (C,  fig. 
121),  on  the  point  of  which  the  fruit  is  borne  singly. 
These  spurs  have  always  wood  buds  as  well  as  fruit  buds, 
and  therefore  they  should  be  shortened  back  as  to  A,  fig. 
121,  the  spring  after  they  have  borne,  in  order  to  produce 
new  spurs  at  the  same  point. 

The  French  train  it  in  beautiful  pyramids,  on  pre- 
cisely the  same  principle  as  the  pear  and  apple  ;  but  the 
leading  shoot  must  be  kept  fastened  to  an  upright  sup- 
port— a  small  rod  attached  to  the  base — on  account  of  its 
reclining  habit. 

THE    MEDLAR 

is  but  little  cultivated.  Its  treatment  may  be  exactly 
similar  to  that  described  for  the  quince,  its  habits  of 
growth  and  bearing  being  similar. 

Section  3. — Pruning  the  Cherry. 

The  cherry  is  trained  in  any  desirable  form  with  as 
much  facility  as  any  of  our  hardy  fruit  trees.  Tlie 
heart  and  higarreau  classes  are  very  rapid  growers,  often 
attaining  the  hight  of  six  feet  the  first  season  from  tlie 
bud  or  graft,  and  in  two  years  forming  fine  standard  trees 
11* 


250  PRUNING. 

six  to  seven  feet  high,  with  a  few  top  shoots.  They  have 
also  large,  drooping  leaves,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  stiff, 
erect,  or  slightly  curved  branches. 

The  duke  class  does  not  grow  so  rapidly.  The  branches 
are  stiff  and  erect,  the  leaves  smaller  as  a  general  thing 
than  the  preceding  classes,  more  erect,  thicker  and  of  a 
deeper,  darker  green  color. 

The  morellos  are  of  a  busliy  habit,  with  smaller  leaves 
than  any  of  the  preceding  classes,  and  the  branches  are 
more  slender  and  closer  together.  The  bark  of  all  is  very 
tough,  being  composed  of  several  layers  of  powerful  fibres 
and  tissue.  The  mode  of  bearing  has  already  been  de- 
scribed under  the  head  of  fruit  branches,  in  the  beginning 
of  the  work.  The  fruit  is  produced  on  wood  thi-ee  years 
old,  tlius :  The  shoot  of  last  year's  growth,  which  is  now 
furnislied  with  leaf  buds  in  all  its  length,  will  produce 
at  the  point,  if  not  shortened,  one  or  more  shoots,  and  all 
the  buds  remaining  are,  during  the  season,  transformed 
into  clusters  of  fruit  buds,  and  produce  fruit  the  year  fol- 
lowing. In  the  center  of  these  clusters  of  fruit  buds 
there  is  always  a  wood  bud,  and  this  grows  a  little  and 
produces  new  clusters  of  fruit  buds  to  replace  those  that 
have  borne.  Some  of  the  morellos  produce  fruit  on  two- 
year-old  wood,  like  the  peach,  the  leaf  buds  being  trans- 
formed into  fruit  buds  during  the  second  growth  of  the 
first  season  of  their  formation.  The  fruit  bud  is  very 
easily  distinguished  from  the  lenf  bud  by  its  roundness 
and  plumpness. 

Pruning  the  Cherry  as  a  Standard. — In  Western  New 
York  the  cherry  succeeds  so  well,  and  being  in  general  ex- 
empt from  the  bursting  of  the  bark,  that  trees  can  be  grown 
safely  with  trunks  five  or  six  feet  high ;  but  in  the  West, 
where  this  malady  prevails,  the  less  there  be  of  a  naked 
trunk  the  better ;  for  it  is  the  trunk  and  large  branches 
that  are  generally  ^o  atfected.  As  a  standard,  the  cherry 
requires  very  Mttle  p^unirg 


THE    CHERRY.  251 

To  Form  a  Hound  Open  Mead. — We  will  take  for  ex- 
ample a  young  tree  two  years  old,  having  three  or  four 
top  branches.  These  at  the  time  of  planting  should  be 
cut  back  to  within  four  or  five  buds  of  their  base,  and 
when  growth  has  commenced,  the  requisite  number  of 
shoots,  say  four  or  five,  to  form  the  framework  of  the  head, 
are  selected,  evenly  distril)uted  on  all  sides,  and  all  the 
others  pinched  or  rubbed  off. 

The  following  season  these  shoots  may  again  be  short- 
ened to  produce  secondary  branches  to  fill  up  spaces,  and 
those  arising  fromtlie  centre  should  be  pinched  out,  for  the 
head  must  be  kept  open  and  accessible  to  the  sun  and 
light.  In  about  three  years  of  such  treatment  tlie  head 
of  the  tree  assumes  a  permanent  form,  and  thereafter  may 
be  left  to  itself,  except  to  remove  occasionally  branches 
that  may  cross  or  intei-fere  with  one  another. 

Pyramidal-headed  Sta?idards. — Certain  varieties,  for 
instance,  Sparhaick''s  Honey^  Downer,  China  Bigar- 
reaii.  Black  Tartarian,  Black  Heart,  and  some  others, 
make  fine  pyramidal-shaped  heads  without  pruning,  more 
than  to  give  the  leader  its  due  superiority  at  the  begin- 
ning, and  to  remove  afterwards,  crossing  and  superfluous 
branches. 

Such  varieties  as  the  Yellow  Spanish,  Black  Eagle, 
Knight's  Early  Black,  Elton,  and  all  the  spreading  sorts, 
should  have  round,  open  lieads,  l)uilt  upc^i  three  or  four 
main  branches,  as  described. 

PnmliKj  the  Cherry  as  a  Pyramid. — The  same  process 
recommended  for  the  pyramidal  training  of  the  pear  and 
apple  may  be  applied  with  complete  success  to  the  cherry. 
We  have  now  in  our  specimen  grounds  a  collection  of  all 
the  classes  trained  according  to  the  method  described, 
and  their  condition  is  in  every  respect  satisfactory;  they 
have  all  given  fruit  the  third  year. 

In  most  cases  the  trees  were  taken  from  the  nursery 
rows  at  the  end  of  their  first  season's  growth  from  the 


252  PEXTNIN-G. 

bud.  Some  had  no  side  branches,  and  others  had.  It  is 
very  common  for  cherries,  and  especially  the  Dukes  and 
Morellos,  to  form  a  number  of  lateral  branches  the  first 
season.  Growth  becomes  slightly  suspended,  or  at  least 
goes  on  very  slowly,  in  July  ;  during  this  time  the  buds  on 
the  lower  part  acquire  a  sort  of  maturity,  and  when  a  new 
growth  commences  they  push  and  form  shoots.  Cherry 
trees  of  this  kind  are  in  a  good  condition  for  pyramids. 
We  select  from  tliese  the  strongest  and  best  situated 
to  form  the  lower  tier  of  permanent  branches ;  the  lower 
ones  are  shortened  to  four  or  five  buds,  and  the  upper  ones 
to  two  or  three.  The  leader  or  stem  is  cut  back  to  within 
six,  eight,  or  ten  buds  of  the  branches.  Those  having  no 
branches  are  cut  back  to  within  six  or  eight  buds  of  the 
stock.     And  this  is  the  first  pruning. 

Treatment  during  the  First  Summer  after  Pruning. — 
When  the  young  shoots  have  grown  a  couple  of  inches  in 
length,  such  as  are  intended  for  permanent  branches  are 
chosen,  and  the  others  are  pinched  in  the  same  manner  as 
recommended  for  pears  and  apples.  Such  as  acquire  more 
vigor  than  is  consistent  with  their  position,  must  be 
checked.  It  frequently  happens  that  unless  the  leader  has 
been  cut  back  close,  only  three  or  four  shoots  will  be  pro- 
duced at  the  extremity,  leaving  a  vacant  space  below. 
This  can  be  remedied  in  most  cases  by  pinching  the  shoots 
around  the  leader  when  they  have  grown  about  an  inch. 
In  some  cases  it  may  be  necessary  even  to  check  the 
leader  to  force  the  lower  buds  into  growth.  This  is  a 
point  of  considerable  importance  in  conducting  a  pyramid, 
and  should  never  be  lost  sight  of. 

llie  Cherry  as  an  Espalier. — Except  it  be  the  training 
of  the  morello,  or  some  other  late  varieties,  on  a  nort^ 
wall,  to  prolong  their  season  of  maturity,  the  cherry  is  sel- 
dom grown  as  an  espalier  tree  in  this  country,  nor  is  it  to 
be  recommended,  except  in  some  rare  instances.  The  sim- 
plest and  probably  the  best  form  is  that  suggested  for 


THE    CIIERET.  253 

pears  and  apples,  an  upright  stem  with  horizontal  branches. 
To  produce  this  the  same  means  are  employed  as  have 
been  previously  described.  If  the  tree  has  no  side 
'  branches  proper  for  the  first  arms,  it  must  be  cut  back  to 
within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  from  the  shoots  pro- 
duced below  that,  one  is  selected  for  the  leader,  and  one 
on  each  side  for  the  first  horizontal  branches  ;  the  other 
shoots  are  pinched  off".  At  the  next  pruning  the  leader  is 
again  shortened  to  produce  another  pair  of  side  branches 
eight  or  ten  inches  from  the  first ;  the  leader  is  continued 
in  an  upright  direction,  and  the'side  branches  are  brought 
half-way  down  in  midsummer,  and  at  the  following  spring 
pruning  they  are  placed  in  the  horizontal  position.  The 
leading  shoot  of  rapid-growing  sorts  may  be  stopped  about 
the  end  of  June,  and  this  will  produce  side  shoots  from 
wliich  another  pair  of  arms  may  be  taken,  and  thus  gain 
a  year  in  the  formation  of  the  tree,  or  covering  the  wall 
or  trellis. 

For  weak-growing  sorts,  the  fan  form  or  some  modifica- 
tion of  it  would,  perhaps,  be  more  suitable  than  the  hori- 
zontal, as  it  oflers  less  restraint  to  the  circulation  of  the 
sap  in  the  branches. 

The  Cherry  as  a  Dwarf  or  Bush. — The  slow-growing 
sorts,  such  as  the  dukes  and  morellos,  when  worked  on  the 
mahaleb  stock,  make  very  pretty  and  very  easily  managed 
prolific  bushes,  and  by  occasional  root-pruning  they  may 
be  confined  to  as  small  a  space  as  a  dwarf  apple-tree.  To 
produce  this  form  the  young  tree  is  cut  back  to  within 
five  or  six  buds  of  its  base ;  and  from  the  shoots  produced 
below  that,  four  or  five  evenly  distributed  around  the  tree 
are  selected  for  the  permanent  branches  or  framework  of 
the  tree.  The  others  are  rubbed  off".  At  the  next  pru- 
ning the  branches  thus  produced  are  shortened  to  produce 
secondary  branches ;  and  thus  it  is  treated  from  year  to 
year  until  the  tree  is  formed  and  full-grown. 

Tiie  branches  must  be  kept  far  enough  apart  to  admit 


254  PRUNING. 

the  sun  and  air  freely  amongst  them.  When  the  tree  is 
five  or  six  years  old,  if  it  grows  too  vigorously,  requiring 
more  space  than  can  be  given  it,  the  larger  roots  may  be 
shortened  in  July  or  August,  or  in  the  winter.  This  and 
the  pyramid,  and  the  dwarf  standard,  with  stems  two  feet 
high,  are  the  most  eligible  garden  forms  for  tlie  cherry.* 

This  dwarf  or  bush  form  is  probably  the  most  advan- 
tageous one  in  which  the  cherry  can  be  successfully  grown 
in  all  of  the  Western  and  North-western  States.  Where 
the  summers  are  hot  and  the  air  often  very  dry,  the  foli- 
age protects  tlie  main  stems;  and  where  snows  are  deep, 
the  tree  is  in  this  form  often  protected  from  cold  and  the 
fruit  buds  saved. 

The  dwarf  standard  is  treated  precisely  as  the  dwarr, 
and  differs  from  it  only  in  having  two  feet  instead  of  six 
or  eight  inches  of  stem.  In  pruning  and  training  the 
cherry,  it  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  when 
large  branches  are  removed,  it  is  liable  to  suffer  from  the 
gum,  and  therefore  the  regulation  of  the  shoots  should 
be  carefully  attended  to  in  summer,  that  amputations  of 
woody  parts  may  be  avoided  as  far  as  possible.  When  it 
is  necessary,  however,  the  cut  surface  heals  more  rapidly 
and  surely  when  made  in  the  summer,  during  the  growing 
season. 

Section  4. — Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Peach. 

The  peach  is  universally  regarded  as  the  most  delicious 
fruit  of  our  climate,  and  ranks  in  importance  for  orchard 
culture,  next  to  the  ap))le  and  the  pear.  Nowhere  in  the 
world  is  it  produced  in  such  quantities,  and  with  so  little 


*  Mr.  Rivers  states  in  his  "  Miniature  Fruit  Garden  "  that  he  has  a 
plant  of  the  late  Dulce  Cherry  ten  years  old  that  never  was  root-pruned,  and 
yet  is  a  small  prolific  tree,  five  feet  in  higlit,  and  the  branches  the  same  in 
diameter.  We  have  in  our  specimen  grounds  trees  of  several  dukes  and 
niorellos,  six  years  old,  on  malialeb  stocks,  not  over  four  er  live  fe«t 
nigh,  and  pictures  of  truatiuiuesa. 


THE  PEACU.  255 

labor,  as  "in  America.  An  English  or  French  gardener 
will  expend  more  labor  on  a  single  tree  than  tlie  majority 
of  our  orchardists  do  upon  one  hundred.  Our  favorable 
climate  obviates  a  multitude  of  difficulties  that  have  to  be 
contended  with  in  other  countries,  and  renders  unneces- 
sary the  minute  and  laborious  systems  of  management 
which  they  iind  it  absolutely  necessary  to  jmrsue. 

But  this  very  excellence  of  our  climate  has  given  rise  to 
a  most  negligent  and  defective  system  of  cultivation,  as  is 
everywhere  illustrated  in  the  condition  of  orchai'ds.  The 
peach,  of  all  other  trees,  is  one  that,  from  its  mode  of 
growth  and  bearing,  requires  constant  pruning  to  main- 
tain it.  in  a  shapely,  thrifty,  and  productive  state.  The 
sap  tends  powerfully  to  the  extremities  of  the  shoots, 
more  so  than  in  any  other  fruit  tree.  The  buds  that  do 
not  push  and  form  shoots  the  first  season  after  their  forma- 
tion, are  lost ;  they  cannot,  as  in  most  other  trees,  be  ex- 
cited into  growth ;  and  hence  it  is  that  the  lower  parts 
become  so  rapidly  denuded  of  young  wood,  and  that  trees 
left  to  themselves  six  or  seven  years  are  in  a  measure 
worn  out  and  useless. 

The  fruit  is  borne  only  on  wood  of  the  preceding  year 
(see  fruit  branches),  and  every  part  destitute  of  such  wood 
must  be  worthless  ;  consequently  one  of  the  great  objects 
of  pruning  is  to  keep  all  parts  of  the  tree  furnished  with 
a  regular  and  constant  succession  of  annual  bearing  shoots. 

The  case  of  a  single  shoot  will  illustrate  the  influence 
of  jiruning  and  its  necessity.  By  referring  to  the  fruit 
branch,  it  will  be  seen  that  it  is  furnished  with  a  certain 
number  of  wood  buds  and  fruit  buds.  At  the  base  there 
are  always  one  or  two  wood  buds  at  least. 

Now,  if  that  shoot  were  not  pruned,  all  the  fruit  buds 
on  it  would  })robably  produce  fruit — one,  two,  or  three 
of  the  Avood  buds  at  the  top  Avould  make  new  shoots ; 
these  would  necessarily  be  very  weak  in  consequence  of 
the  fruit  below  them.      At  the  end  of  the  season  there 


256  PRUNING. 

would  be  a  long,  vacant  space,  entirely  destitute  of  a 
young  shoot  or  a  living  bud.  This  is  the  way  that 
the  interior  and  lower  parts  of  trees  soon  become  de- 
garnished. 

But  when  that  shoot  is  shortened,  we  will  say  one  half, 
the  sap  IS  retained  in  its  lower  parts,  one  half  of  the  fruit 
buds  are  removed,  and  the  consequence  is  that  large  and 
fine  fruits  are  obtained  from  those  remaining  ;  vigorous 
young  shoots  are  produced  from  the  lower  buds  to  bear 
next  year,  and  take  the  place  of  those  which  have  already 
borne.  In  this  way  regular  uniform  crops  of  large  and 
fine  fruit  are  obtained,  and  a  constant  succession  of  young 
slioots  is  kept  up. 

To  Form  the  Head  of  a  Standard  Peach  Tree. — We 
will  suppose  it  the  intention  to  form  a  standard  tree,  with 
a  trunk  two  feet  in  hight,  and  a  round,  open,  and  sym- 
metrical head.  We  take  a  yearling  tree  and  cut  it  back 
to  within  two  feet  and  a  half  of  the  ground  in  the  spring. 
Below  this  cut,  a  certam  number  of  shoots  will  be  pro- 
duced, from  which  three  Avill  be  selected  to  form  the  main 
branches  or  framework  of  the  head.  All  the  others  are 
rubbed  off  when  two  or  three  inches  long,  or  sooner.  At 
the  end  of  the  season  we  have  a  tree  with  three  branches. 

The  second  year  these  three  branches  are  cut  back  full 
one-half  their  length,  and  from  each  we  take  a  shoot  to 
continue  the  branch,  and  one  to  form  a  secondary  branch. 
The  other  shoots  produced  below  these  are  pinched  or 
checked,  to  prevent  them  from  interfering  with  the  growth 
of  the  leading  branches.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  we  have 
a  tree  with  six  leading  branches,  and  some  bearing  shoots 
below  on  the  older  wood. 

The  third  year  each  of  these  six  branches  is  shortened 
one-half,  in  order  to  obtain  more  secondary  branches,  and 
some  fruit  branches  on  the  lower  parts.  All  young  shoots 
on  the  old  wood,  whether  fruit  branches  or  not,  should  be 
cut  back  one-half,  or  as  far  as  n:iay  be  necessary,  to  cause 


THB  PEACH.  257 

the  wood  buds  at  their  base  to  push,  and  make  shoots  to 
bear  next  year. 

The  formation  of  the  head  goes  on  as  described,  for  two 
or  three  years  more,  when  it  is  complete ;  for  peach  trees, 
properly  pruned,  do  not  assume  such  wide-spreading  forms 
as  they  do  naturally. 

The  main  branches  and  secondary  branches  should  be 
at  equal  distances  throughout,  and  flir  enough  apart  to 
give  the  bearing  wood  on  their  sides  the  full  benefit  of  th% 
sun  and  air. 

An  equality  of  vigor  should  also  be  preserved  amongst 
them  by  summer  pinching.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  a 
very  vigorous  shoot  start  up  in  a  peach-tree,  and  appro- 
priate so  much  of  the  sap  as  to  injure  a  whole  branch; 
these  should  be  checked  the  moment  their  character  is  ob- 
served, unless  they  may  be  wanted  to  fill  a  vacancy.  Every 
part  of  the  branch  should  be  furnished  with  bearing 
shoots,  and  these  should,  every  spring,  be  shortened  in 
one  half  or  more,  to  produce  others  at  their  base,  whilst 
those  that  have  borne  are  cut  out. 

Some  people  imagine  that  when  they  have  taken  a  pair 
of  hedge  shears,  or  some  such  instrument,  and  shorn  off 
the  ends  of  the  shoots  on  the  outside  of  the  tree  indis- 
criminately, they  are  "  shortening  in,"  and  so  they  are,  as 
they  would  a  hedge  !  Some  of  the  shoots  are  cut  away 
entirely,  fruit-buds  and  all,  whilst  others  remain  untouched, 
and  the  tree  becomes  like  a  brush  on  the  outside  and 
naked  within.  This  is  almost  as  bad  as  the  let-alone  sys- 
tem. Every  shoot  should  be  cut  separately.  The  most 
expeditious  instrument  for  doing  this  is  a  pair  of  light 
hand  pruning  shears,  such  as  the  French  secateur  (see  in- 
struments). A  person  accustomed  to  its  use  can  prune 
every  shoot  on  a  full-grown  tree  in  an  almost  incredibly- 
short  space  of  time,  as  compared  with  that  required  with 
the  knife.  Extensive  orchardists,  looking  to  the  cost,  may 
be  deterred  from  Buch  a  labor,"   preferring  to  let  their 


258  PRUNING. 

orchards  die  after  bearing  a  few  crops,  and  plant  new 
ones  to  take  their  place.  In  the  case  of  garden  trees,  or 
the  family  orchard,  the  case  is  different,  and  careful  pru- 
ning will  pay. 

Boot  rruning. — In  gardens  where  the  soil  is  rich,  and 
trees  very  full  of  vigor,  disposed  to  grow  too  much  and 
bear  too  little,  root  pruning  should  be  practised  once  in 
two  or  three  years — the  first  lightly,  removing  only  the 
ends  of  the  large  feeding  roots.  The  safest  time  to  do  it 
is  between  the  fall  of  the  leaf  and  the  opening  of  spring. 
Vegetation  in  the  peach  seldom  becomes  sufficiently  inac- 
tive during  the  growing  season,  to  enable  the  roots  to  be 
pruned  with  safety. 

The  Peach  hi  the  form  of  a  Vase. — Among  all  the 
forms  in  which  trees  are  conducted,  this  is,  when  well 
done,  one  of  the  most  graceful. 

It  consists  of  a  short  stem,  two  to  five  feet,  according  to 
fancy,  with  a  head  composed  of  three  or  four  main  branches, 
and  two  or  three  times  that  number  of  secondary  branches, 
all  trained,  by  means  of  light  stakes  at  first,  and  after- 
wards wire  or  wooden  hoops,  in  the  form  of  a  vase  or 
goblet.  The  branches  are  arranged  in  a  circle,  with  bear- 
ing shoots  filling  up  the  spaces.  No  shoots  are  permit- 
ted either  in  the  interior  or  in  front,  that  is,  projecting 
from  the  exterior  surface  of  the  goblet. 

The  most  beautiful  trees  of  this  form  are  to  be  seen  in 
the  gardens  of  the  Luxembourg,  at  Paris,  and  elsewhere 
in  France. 

Mr.  Louis  Gaudry,  who  has  a  very  pretty  little  planta- 
tion in  Paris,  and  who  has  published  a  small  work  on 
pruning  and  training  trees,  gives  the  annexed  cut  as  a  rep- 
resentation of  one  of  his  vase  peach-trees  of  eight  years' 
growth  (fig.  122).  The  following  is  the  substance  of  his 
mode  of  conducting  them. 

First  Pruning. — The  stem  of  the  yearling  tree  is  cut 
back  to  the  point  at  \7hich  it  is  desired  to  commence  the 


THE     PEACH.  259 

head,  to  throe  buda,  forming  a  triangle,  and  as  nearly  as 
possible  of  the  same  hight.      Three  shoots  are  obtained 


Fig.  123.— rEACU-TKEE   IN  FOKM  Off  ▲  VASB. 

from  these  three  buds  to  form  the  first  or  main  branches 
or  framework  of  the  vase.  To  f  ivor  the  growth  of  these, 
all  the  shoots  produced  below  them  are  rubbed  off. 

In  order  to  give  them  the  proper  inclination,  three  small 


260  PBuinNG. 

stakes  are  inserted  In  the  ground,  to  which  the  three 
branches  are  fastened ;  it  is  supposed  that  if  these  stakes 
be  sunk  as  far  from  the  base  of  the  tree  as  the  roots  ex- 
tend, and  in  an  upright  position,  there  will  be  a  sufficient 
opening  or  space  in  the  center.  The  branches  should  be 
thus  brought  out  about  August,  so  that  the  formation  of 
new  layers  of  wood  subsequent  to  that  time  may  fix  them 
in  their  places.  The  side  shoots,  which  are  produced  on 
the  young  branches,  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  season 
designated  by  the  French  bourgeois  anticipes,  are  pinched 
to  one  or  two  leaves. 

Second  Pruning.— The.  spring  following,  the  branches  are 
loosed  from  the  stakes,  and  shortened  to  Avithin  six  or  eight 
inches  of  their  base,  to  a  leaf  bud  on  the  outside  or  front 
of  the  branch,  and  with  a  bud  below  it,  either  on  the  right 
or  left  side.  The  front  bud  continues  the  main  branch, 
and  the  side  bud  forms  a  secondary  branch.  The  three 
branches  are  pruned  in  this  way,  taking  care  that  the 
secondary  branch  on  each  is  on  the  same  side,  so  that  two 
of  them  can  not  come  in  contact.  To  favor  the  growth  of 
these  new  shoots,  all  those  situated  below  them  that  acquire 
too  much  vigor,  must  be  pinched  at  three  or  four  leaves. 

A  wooden  hoop  may  now  be  placed  in  the  center,  to 
which  the  branches  are  attached  to  keep  them  in  their 
places.  In  this  way  the  tree  progresses ;  every  year  one 
or  more  secondary  branches  are  produced,  the  main 
brandies  increase  in  length,  and  fruit  shoots  are  produced 
on  all  the  intervals  of  the  branches  on  their  two  sides. 

All  shoots  that  push  either  inside  or  in  front  of  the  vase 
are  pinched  off,  and  pinching  is  practised  at  all  times  to 
maintain  equal  growth  between  the  different  parts,  and  to 
check  any  too  great  tendency  of  the  sap  to  the  ex- 
tremities. 

Third  Pruning. — The  fruit  branches  are  pruned  to 
three  or  four  buds,  to  induce  the  lower  wood  buds  to  push 
and  form  new  wood  for  the  next  season. 


THE    PEACH.  261 

The  main  "branches  are  cut  back  to  ten  or  twelve  inches 
above  the  previous  pruning,  to  a  bud  on  the  front  to  con- 
tinue the  branch ;  the  buds  selected  to  produce  another 
series  of  secondary  branches  must  all  be  on  the  side  oppo- 
site  the  previous  ones.  If  the  position  of  the  buds  renders 
this  impossible,  then  they  may  all  be  chosen  on  the  same 
side  as  the  first. 

The  hoops  this  year  will  require  to  be  larger  in  diame- 
ter than  the  preceding,  in  order  to  give  increased  width 
to  the  vase  as  it  proceeds  upwards.  All  the  other  opera- 
tions are  conducted  in  the  same  manner.  The  hoops  in- 
side  are  placed  within  six  to  eight  inches  of  one  another, 
and  the  circular  branches  within  twelve  to  fifteen  inches. 
As  the  tree  advances  in  age,  the  growth  may  become  too 
vigorous  at  the  top  ;  and  in  this  case,  the  main  branches, 
always  the  most  vigorous,  must  be  pruned  short,  and  even 
pinched  during  summer,  to  turn  the  saj)  to  the  benefit  of 
the  weaker  parts. 

These  are  the  main  points  in  the  management  of  these 
vases.  It  may  be  added,  that  the  apple,  pear,  cherry,  and 
indeed  all  other  trees  may  be  grown  in  this  form,  and  bj 
the  same  means,  varying  it  only  to  suit  difierent  modes 
of  growth  and  bearing,  and  degrees  of  vigor. 

The  Peach  as  an  Espalier. — Espalier  training  will  never 
be  practiced  in  this  country  to  any  very  great  extent,  and 
therefore  it  may  be  considered,  in  comparison  with  open- 
ground  systems,  unimportant.  Yet  there  are  some  dis- 
tricts not  so  favorably  situated  as  to  be  able  to  produce 
peaches,  apricots,  and  nectarines,  in  the  open  ground. 
For  these  a  proper  system  of  espalier  training  is  impor- 
tant, because  in  this  form  trees  are  easily  protected  from 
winter  or  spring  frosts,  and  they  ripen  their  fruits  perfect- 
ly, where  open  ground  or  standard  trees  would  not.  We 
have  a  tree  trained  on  the  wall  of  one  of  our  nursery 
buildings  which  never  fails  to  yield  a  good  crop  of  superb 
fruit,  when  trees  in  open  ground,  both  in  orchard  and  gar* 


262 


PRUltlNG. 


den,  fail.  The  fruit  is  of  superior  quality,  and  ripens 
considerably  earlier  than  that  on  trees  in  open  ground. 
On  the  8tli  of  August  last,  1871,  we  picked  from  it  Hale's 
Early,  nine  inches  in  circumference. 

The  Peach  as  an  Espalier  trained  on  a  toall  or  trellis. — 
There  are  a  multitude  of  forms  for  espalier  trees  where 
training  on  walls  or  trellises  is  necessarily  and  extensively 
practiced,  as  in  England  and  France.  The  great  requisites 
in  a  wall  tree  are,  first,  to  have  all  the  wall  covered ;  and, 
second,  to  have  the  different  parts  of  the  tree  alike  favor- 
ably placed,  with  reference  to  its  growth.  Next  to  these 
are  simplicity  and  naturalness. 

The  most  popular  form  in  England  is  that  called  the  fan 


Fig.    123.— FAN-SHAPED    ESPALIER. 

(fig.  123).  In  it  the  branches  are  spread  out  so  as  to  re- 
semble a  fan  ;  the  lower  ones  are  nearly  or  quite  hori- 
zontal ;  the  next  more  oblique  ;  and  so  they  proceed  until 
the  center  ones  are  quite  upright,  and  this  appears  to  be 
the  defect  of  this  form ;  for  the  horizontal  branches  can 
not  maintain  such  a  vigor  as  those  more  erect  above  them. 
The  square  espalier,  invented  by  M.  Felix  Malo,  of 
France,  and  now  extensively  practiced  by  some  of  the 
best  peach-growers  of  the  celebrated  town  of  Montreuil, 
seems  to  possess  more  advantages,  all  in  all,  thah  any 
other.  The  Bon  Jardinier,  from  which  the  following 
description  of  the  method  of  conducting  these  trees  is 


THE    PEACH,  :a03 

taken,  says:  "This  generally  approved  form  begins  to 
find  imitators,  and  it  is  probable  that  one  day  it  will  be 
adopted  by  all  intelligent  gardeners." 

First  Year. — We  will  begin  with  a  peach-tree  one  year 
from  the  bud,  and  cut  it  down  to  within  six  or  eight 
inches,  or  three  or  four  buds  of  the  stock.  From  the  buds 
produced  below  the  cut,  two  of  the  strongest  are  chosen, 
one  on  each  side  to  form  the  two  main  branches — branches 
merely  ;  all  the  other  shoots  are  destroyed,  and  these  two 
are  allowed  to  grow  upright,  and  in  the  fall  they  will  be 
three  to  four  feet  high. 

Second  Year  (fig.  124). — In  the  spring,  when  hard  frosts 
are  no  longer  apprehended, 
the  branches  are  examined 
to  see  if  they  be  sound  and 
healthy,  free  from  bruises, 
insects,  etc.,  and  they  are 
cut  back  to  twelve  or  fif-  ^^^^^^  ^^^^ 
teen    inches   of  their   base, 

according  to  their  strength ;  a  weak  branch  ought  al- 
ways to  be  cut  back  in  such  a  case  as  this  further  than 
a  strong  one. 

The  bud  cut  to,  should,  if  possible,  be  on  the  inside, 
and  the  next  bud  below  it  on  the  oiitside  y  the  first  to 
continue  the  main  branch,  and  the  other  to  form  the  first 
exterior  secondary  branch.  All  shoots  starting  on  the 
front  or  rear  of  the  main  branch  should  be  rubbed  off,  and 
tliose  on  the  sides  laid  in  early  to  prevent  their  acquiring 
too  much  vigor.  The  inain  l)ranches  are  left  until  July, 
when  they  are  brought  down  to  the  form  of  a  V,  and  at- 
tached to  the  wall  or  trellis  in  this  position.  The  exterior 
secondary  branch  is  placed  more  obliquely,  and  the  fruit 
branches  are  kept  in  a  uniform  and  moderate  growth  by 
pinching  and  laying  in.  The  most  vigorous  should 
always  be  laid  in  first,  to  check  them,  and  favor  the  others. 

Third  Year  (fig.  125). — After  loosening  the  tree  from 


264  PEUNTN-G. 

the  trellis,  the  two  main  branches  are  cut  back  to  sixteen 
or  eighteen  inclies  of  the  previous  pruning,  and  the  two 
lower  or  secondary  branches  to  twelve  or  sixteen  inches. 

The  fruit  branches  are  shortened  to  within  two  or  three 
buds  of  their  base,  and  all  are  again  fastened  back  in  their 
places.  When  the  young  shoots  have  reached  the  length 
of  three,  four,  or  five  inches,  such  as  are  badly  placed  on 
the  front  or  rear  of  the  branches,  or  in  any  place  injurious 
to  the  symmetry  of  the  tree,  are  removed.  During  the 
summer  the  different  brandies  must  be  laid  in  from  time 
to  time,  the  most  vigorous  first.  This  year  tAVO  more 
secondary  branches  must  be  obtained  on  each  side,  in  the 
same  manner  as  in  the  previous  year.  Their  growth  is 
also  promoted  by  the  same  means. 

The  fruit  branches  on  the  sides  of  the  main  branches 
may  give  some  fruit  this  year,  and  those  on  the  secondary 
branches  may  bear  next  year. 

The  fruit  branches  that  have  borne  are  to  be  cut  away 
each  year  and  replaced  by  others,  therefore  we  must  com- 
mence to  provide  for  these,  branches  of  replacement. 
They  are  produced  as  follows  : 

First,  it  may  be  observed  that  fruit  branches  have  gen- 
erally one  or  more  wood  buds  at  their  base.  Sometimes 
these  will  push  and  form  branches  of  replacement  without 
any  assistance,  more  than  cutting  back.  In  such  a  case 
there  is  no  difficulty.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  or  at  the 
next  pruning,  the  fruit  branch  that  has  borne  is  cut  away, 
and  the  new  one  takes  its  place.  But  nature  does  not 
always  act  thus.  It  is  generally  necessary  to  force  the 
development  of  these  branches  of  replacement,  without 
which  the  branches  in  all  their  lower  parts  would  become 
entirely  denuded. 

Hence,  then,  when  a  branch  of  replacement  fails  to  ap- 
pear by  the  ordinary  method  of  shortening,  we  have  two 
modes  of  forcing  it :  one  is  to  make,  after  the  fruit  is  set, 
an  incision  through  the  bark  two  inches  above  one  of  the 


THE    PEACH.  S65 

wood  buds,  and  pinch  close  all  the  shoots  on  the  fruit 
branch,  leaving  only  rosettes  of  leaves  necessary  to  the 
perfection  of  the  fruit ;  pinching  must  be  repeated  all  the 
time  that  the  shoots  on  the  fruit  branch  continue  to  grow. 

Fourth  Year  (fig.  126). — After  having  examined  if  the 
tree  is  equally  vigorous  in  all  its  parts,  and  having  de- 
cided upon  the  means  of  restoring  the  balance  if  it  has 
been  lost,  the  tree  is  detached  from  the  wall  or  trellis,  and 
pruned,  commencing  with  the  fruit  branches  that  have 
borne.  These,  it  must  be  remembered,  are  to  be  cut  back 
each  year  to  the  new  branch  of  replacement  produced  at 
its  base.  The  young  shoot  then  becomes  the  fruit  branch, 
and  is  pruned  within  four  to  fourteen  inches,  according  to 
its  vigor  and  the  situation  of  the  fruit  buds. 

The  two  main  branches  are  cut  back  to  within  about 
twenty  inches  of 
the  previous  prun- 
ing ;  the  first  shoot 
on  the  inside  is 
chosen  to  continue 
the  branch,  and  the  Fig.  126. 

next  one  below  it,  fourth  year. 
on  the  lower  and  outer  side,  to  produce  the  third  ex- 
terior secondary  branch.  The  two  secondary  branches 
alrea<ly  formed  are  cut  back  to  about  twelve  to  fifteen 
inches  of  tlie  previous  pruning,  in  order  to  make  all  the 
lateral  buds  on  them  push.  The  terminal  bud  pioduces  a 
leader  to  continue  them;  all  the  others  are  fruit  branches. 

In  attaching  the  tree  again  to  the  wall,  the  angle  that 
exists  between  the  two  main  branches  is  gradually 
widened,  tlie  branches  a  little  more  spread  at  every  pruning. 

Fifth  Year  (fig.  127). — The  tree  is  now  composed  of 
two  main  branches,  both  of  which  have  three  secondary 
branches  on  their  exterior  lower  sides,  and  fruit  branches 
on  all  their  length  on  the  interior  and  upper  side  ;  and  all 
that  is  wanted  to  complete  it  is  to  transform  three  of  the 
13 


266 


bearing  shoots  on  tlie  iipper  sides  into  three  secondary- 
branches,  corresponding  and  alternating  with  the  three 
lower  ones.  To  do  tliis  we  select  the  fruit  branch  on  eacli, 
nearest  the  fork  or  base  of  the  main  branches.  The 
growth  of  this  is  favored  by  training  it  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion, and  by  pinching  any  vigorous  shoots  near  it.  The 
tree  is  managed  thus,  as  in  preceding  years,  in  regard  to 
laying  in  the  shoots  according  to  their  vigor,  and  pinch- 
ing to  m.aintain  regularity,  etc. 

The  Sixth  Year  (fig.  128). — The  pruning  is  conducted 
on  the  same  principles  precisely,  and  another  interior 
secondary  branch  is  produced  in  the  same  way  as  last 
year. 

The  Seventh  Year  (fig.  129). — Another  is  produced  on 
each,  and  then  the  tree,  with  its  two  main  branches  and 
twelve  secondary  branches,  all  trained  in  the  form  of  a 
parallelogram,  is  complete  (fig.  130). 

Fig.  131  represents  the  tree  complete,  bearing  shoots 
and  all. 

The  main  branches  should  be  permanently  fixed  at  an 


Fig.  128. 

SIXTH  YEAR. 


Fig.  130. — EIGHTH  YEAR. 


Fig-.  139. 

SEVENTH  YEAR. 

angle  of  45°  ;  the  lowest 
exterior  secondary  branch- 
es at  15°.  Some  cultiva- 
tors recommend  that  the 
interior  secondary  branch- 
es converge  to  the  center 
at  an  angle  of  45°.     This 


gives  them  an  oblique  direction,  and  places  them  upon 
a  more  equal  footing  with  the  other  parts. 


THE     PEACH. 


267 


In  training  such  trees  an  imaginary  circular  line 
duced  on  the 
wall  or  trellis, 
and  this  is  divid- 
ed off  into  parts, 
corresponding  to 
the  degrees  of  a 
circle,  commenc- 
ing at  the  center 
above,  and  num- 
bering both  way  s 
to  the  base:  this 
enables  the  per- 
sons who  conduct 
the  tree  to  lay  in 
the  branches  on 
both  sides  at  an 
equal  angle  with 
precision,  which 
is  quite  requisite 
to  maintain  uni- 
formity  of 
growth  and  vig- 
or. It  has  been 
considered  neces- 
sary to  treat  this 
subject  some- 
what minutely, 
for  the  purpose 
of  giving  to  per- 
sons wholly  un- 
accpiainted  with 
training,  some 
knowledge  of  the 
principles  on  which  it  depends,  and  the  mode 
execution. 


IS  pro 


of  ita 


The  form  described  above  is  one  of  the  simplest  of  all 
espaliers,  except  the  horizontal,  described  in  treating  of 
the  apple  and  the  pear;  but  whoever  can  train  a  tree  in 
this  manner  well,  can  do  it  in  all  others,  for  the  principles 
of  growth  are  the  same  always ;  and  he  who  understands 
these,  can  mould  liis  trees  at  pleasure,  provided  he  can  be- 
stow the  necessary  labor.  The  peach  may  be  grown  in 
any  or  all  the  espalier  forms,  and  may  thus  be  easily  pro- 
tected by  means  of  straw-mats,  or  evergreen  branches. 

Laying  in,  and  fastening  the  trees  to  walls  and  trel- 
lises.— When  trees  are  trained  to  a  wall  or  fence,  the 
branches  are  fastened  in  the  desired  position  by  means  of 
shreds  of  cloth  list,  or  strips  of  India-rubber  half  an  inch 
wide,  and  from  two  to  three  inches  long,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  branch  to  be  laid  in.  Very  small  nails  are 
necessary  to  train  on  boards,  but  larger  ones  on  a  brick  and 
stone  wall.  On  a  wire  trellis,  strings  of  bass  matting  are 
used  instead  of  nails  and  cloth ;  and  in  fastening  to  sim- 
ple rails,  small  willows  may  be  used.  The  i:)rinciple  to  be 
observed,  in  laying  in  and  fastening  the  branches  and 
shoots  of  espalier  trees,  is  that  strong  shoots  must  he  laid 
in  sooner  than  weaJc  ones,  and  also  more  inclined  from  the 
vertical  direction.  A  great  deal  may  be  done  towards 
maintaining  uniformity  of  growth  in  the  different  parts 
of  a  trained  tree,  by  laying  in  the  branches  in  a  judicious 
and  discriminating  manner. 

Section  5. — Peuning  and  Management  of  the  Plum. 

The  plum  bears  its  fruit  on  spurs  produced  on  wood 
two  years  old  and  uj) wards,  like  the  cherry  (see  Fruit 
Branches).  On  young  trees  these  spurs  are  several  years 
in  the  process  of  formation ;  but  when  they  commence  to 
bear  they  endure,  if  well  managed,  for  many  years.  They 
are  generally  furnished  with  Avood  buds  on  their  lower 
parts  ;  and  when  they  begin  to  grow  feeble,  they  ought 


THE    APRICOT.  269 

to  be  renewed  by  cutting  back.  The  plum  is  almost  uni- 
versally grown  as  a  standard,  and  the  head  may  be  con- 
ducted in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  the  cherry. 
The  branches  should  be  mainly  regulated  by  summer 
pinching,  to  obviate  the  necessity  of  knife-pruning,  that 
frequently  gives  rise  to  the  gum.  Some  varieties  of  very 
rapid  growth  produce  shoots  three  or  four  feet  long  in 
one  season  ;  and  if  not  shortened  back  at  the  spring  pru- 
ning, the  tree  presents  long  naked  branches  in  a  short 
time. 

Standards  and  dwarf  standards  may  be  root-pruned  to 
advantage  in  small  gardens,  and  where  it  is  desirable  to 
get  them  into  early  bearing. 

The  plum  may  be  trained  in  any  of  the  espalier  forms 
already  described,  and  in  the  same  manner. 

Section  6. — Pruning  and  Management  of  the  Apricot. 

The  Apricot,  like  the  peach,  has  fruit  and  wood  buds 
mixed  on  the  shoots  of  one  year's  growth.  It  has  also 
little  fruit  branches  or  spurs  like  the  plum,  which  are 
capable  of  being  renewed  by  shortening. 

The  mode  of  pruning  must  therefore  have  in  view  the 
production  of  young  wood,  and  maintaining  the  spurs  in 
a  vigorous  and  fruitful  state.  When  neglected,  it  becomes, 
like  the  peach,  denuded  of  young  bearing  wood  in  the  in- 
terior, and  enfeebled  by  over-fruitfulness.  The  shoots 
should  therefore  be  shortened  every  season,  according  to 
their  length,  as  recommended  for  the  peach,  to  reduce  the 
number  of  blossom  buds,  and  favor  the  production  of  new 
bearing  wood. 

It  is  very  liable  to  the  gum,  and  severe  pruning  with 
the  knife  should  be  obviated  as  far  as  possible  by  pinch- 
ing. It  may  be  conducted  as  a  standard,  pyramid, 
dwarf,  or  espalier,  on  the  same  principle  as  other  trees. 
When  trees  become  enfeebled  by  neglect  or  age,  they  can 


270  PRUNING. 

be  renewed  by  heading  down  close  to  the  stem.  N"ew 
and  vigorous  shoots  are  immediately  produced  that  form 
a  new  tree.  This  heading  down  should  be  done  very 
early  in  the  spring,  and  the  wounds  be  carefully  covered 
with  grafting  wax. 

It  is  one  of  the  first  of  our  fruit  trees  to  blossom  in  the 
spring,  and  therefore  in  some  localities  the  flowers  are 
killed  by  the  frost.  Where  this  is  apprehended  it  may  be 
well  to  plant  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall,  or  something 
that  will  rather  retard  the  period  of  blooming,  and  sub- 
ject it  less  to  freezing  and  thawing.  We  have  apricots 
trained  here  on  a  south  aspect,  yet  in  seven  years  the 
blossoms  have  not  been  killed,  though  in  one  or  two  in- 
stances they  have  been  slightly  injured.  The  espalier 
trees  offer  great  facility  for  protection;  and  therefore, 
where  spring  frosts  prevail,  the  apricot  should  be  so 
trained.  Mats  or  straw  hurdles  can  be  placed  against 
them,  both  in  spring  and  winter  if  necessary,  with  the 
same  ease  that  a  common  frame  is  covered.  We  have 
used  e-ergreen  boughs  for  this  purpose  with  great  success. 

Section  7. — Pruning  the  Nectarine. 

The  Nectarine  is  but  a  smooth-skinned  peach.  The  trees 
are  so  similar  in  their  mode  of  growth,  buds,  etc.,  that 
they  can  not  be  distinguished  from  one  another,  and,  there- 
fore, whatever  has  been  said  respecting  the  pruning  and 
treatment  of  one,  applies  with  equal  force  to  the  other. 
This  fruit  is  so  infested  with  the  curculio,  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  obtain  a  crop  that  will  pay  for  culture  in 
any  part  of  the  country  in  the  open  ground.  Unless  some 
more  effective  remedy  be  discovered  than  any  yet  known, 
it  will  soon  have  to  retire  from  the  garden,  and  take  up 
its  residence  with  the  foreign  grape  in  glass-houses. 

It  produces  excellent  crops  trained  in  espaliers  on  % 
back  wall,  or  a  center  trellis  of  a  cold-grapery. 


THB   «RAPE.  271 

Section  8.— Hardy  Native  Geapes. 

Culture,  Pruning,  and  Training. — When  we  wrote  the 
first  pages  of  The  Fruit  Garden,  in  1851,  the  culture 
of  our  native  haidy  grape  was  principally  confined  to 
a  few  vines  in  the  gardens  of  amateur  horticulturists. 
Vineyard  culture  was  supposed  to  be  adapted  only  to 
high,  hilly  locations,  and,  beyond  a  few  hundred  acres 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Cincinnati,  O.,  was  all  unknown 
and  untried.  The  varieties  at  that  time  considered  val- 
uable for  general  cultivation  .  were  limited  to  a  bare 
half-dozen.  But  the  past  twenty  years  have  wrought 
wonderful  changes,  abounding  in  results  of  incalculable 
value.  As  we  have  said,  at  the  time  we  first  wrote,  the 
list  of  valued  varieties  was  but  a  bare  half-dozen,  and  no 
attempts  had  then  been  made  toward  improvement  by  the 
production  of  new  sorts  from  seed ;  but  now  our  lists  of 
varieties  grown  from  seed  have  become  numerous,  greatly 
improved  in  quality  of  fruit,  with  habits  as  to  ripening, 
growth,  etc.,  adapted  to  all  soils  and  locations.  The  cul- 
ture of  the  vine  has  become,  as  it  were,  a  feature  belong- 
ing to  every  household  and  garden,  while  vineyards  by 
the  thousands  of  acres  cover  not  only  the  hills  but  the 
broad  prairies  and  other  level  lands  of  our  States.  The 
interest  and  extent  of  this  branch  of  rural  occupation  have 
induced  the  application  of  thought  and  skill.  So  that 
while  the  past  twenty  years  have  wrought  wonderful 
changes,  the  pi'ospective  advance  in  improvement  of  varie' 
ties  and  adaptation  to  soils  and  localities  is  an  item  be 
yond  computation. 

Varieties  introduced  since  1851. — In  1851  the  varieties 
of  hardy  grapes  known  and  described,  numbered  about 
twenty ;  now  their  number  is  about  two  hundred,  many 
of  them,  however,  of  inferior  quality,  and  others  so  nearly 
resembling  their  parents  as  not  to  make  them  specially 
valuably, 


272  PEUNING. 

Acres  in  Cultivation. — In  the  absence  of  any  reliable 
statistics  no  true  account  of  the  number  of  acres  in  culti- 
vation can  now  be  written,  but  estimating  from  the  re- 
ports of  Grape  Growers',  Horticultural,  and  Agricultural 
Societies,  we  may  safely  assume  that  we  have  something 
over  one  million  of  acres,  of  which  the  territory  west  of 
the  Rocky  IMountixins  may  claim  100,000,  and  the  States 
east  the  remainder. 

Garden  Culture. — The  management  of  our  native  grapes 
is  exceedingly  simple.  Tiie  vine  appears  to  accommodate 
itself  to  a  great  variety  of  modes  of  treatment  and  give  an 
abundance  of  fruit.  But  a  well-pruned  and  trained  vine, 
in  a  well-prepared  soil,  will  assuredly  compensate  for  all 
additional  labor  and  care  in  its  culture. 

Immense  crops  are  raised  throughout  the  country  in  the 
entire  absence  of  any  systematic  mode  of  training  or  prun- 
ing. A  single  vine  in  a  neighbor's  garden,  carried  to  the 
flat  roof  of  an  out-building,  and  allowed  to  ramble  there  at 
pleasure,  without  any  care  but  a  very  imperfect  pruning 
every  spring,  produces  annually  many  bushels  of  fruit ; 
but  the  quality  is,  of  course,  greatly  inferior  to  that  pro- 
duced on  well-pruned,  trained,  and  dressed  vines.  A  grape- 
vine neatly  trained  on  a  trellis,  with  its  luxuriant,  ample 
foliage  and  rich,  pendulous  clusters  of  fruit,  is  really  one 
of  the  most  interesting  objects  in  a  fruit  garden,  and  at 
the  same  time  one  of  the  most  profitable ;  for  the  shade 
and  ornament  alone  that  it  produces,  are  a  sufficient 
recompense  for  its  culture. 

Soils. — In  planting  a  grape-vine  the  first  point  is  to  pre- 
pare a  border  for  the  roots. 

This  must,  in  the  first  place,  be  perfectly  dry.  If  the 
soil  or  situation  be  wet  or  damp,  it  must  be  drained  thor- 
oughly, so  that  no  stagnant  moisture  can  exist  in  it.  In 
the  next  place,  it  must  be  deep  ;  three  feet  is  a  good  depth, 
and  it  must  not  be  less  than  two,  where  abundant  and  fine 
crops  are  expected.     The  mode  of  preparation  is,  to  dig 


THE     GKAPE.  273 

out  the  natural  soil  to  the  required  depth,  and  the  length 
and  width  necessary.  For  a  single  vine  the  border  sliould 
be  eight  or  ten  feet  long  and  four  wide. 

When  the  excavation  is  made,  if  the  soil  be  stiff  or 
damp,  a  few  inches,  or  a  foot  deep,  of  small  stones,  brick, 
rubbish,  etc.,  may  be  laid  on  the  bottom  as  a  sort  of  drain- 
age. On  the  top  of  this,  deposit  the  compost  for  the 
border.  This  may  consist  of  two  parts  of  good,  fresh, 
friable  loam,  one  of  old,  well-:rotted  mauure,  and  one  of 
ashes,  shells,  broken  bones,  etc.,  all  completely  mixed  with 
one  another.  The  top  of  the  border,  when  finished,  should 
be  at  least  a  foot  higher  than  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
so  that  it  may  still  remain  higher  after  settling. 

Position  of  the  Vine  or  border. — A  southern  exposure 
is  generally  considered  best,  because  there  the  vine  is  sup- 
posed to  get  the  rays  of  the  sun  during  the  entire  day; 
but  an  eastern  exposure,  with  sun  three-fourths  of  the  day, 
is  often  quite  as  successful,  and  especially  so  with  the 
early-ripening  varieties.  A  western  is  next  best,  while 
a  northern  exposure,  with  the  sun's  rays  only  one-half  the 
day,  should  be  avoided  if  possible,  but  if  used  the  hardy 
early-ripening  varieties  only  should  be  planted. 

Planting  the  Vine. — As  in  planting  any  other  tree,  the 
foots  should  be  carefully  spread  out,  and  the  fine  earth 
worked  well  in  amongst  them.  Its  position  should  be  ex- 
actly in  the  centre  of  the  trellis  it  is  to  be  trained  on. 

The  depth  to  which  the  roots  are  covered  should  never 
be  less  than  four  inches  over  the  upper  or  crown  line,  and 
if  the  position  is  a  southern  one  and  the  soil  naturally 
dry,  six  to  eight  inches  will  be  better. 

Distance  Apart. — This  must  be  regulated  somewhat  by 
the  variety  of  vine  planted;  the  Concord,  Ives',  or  other 
strong-growing  sorts,  requiring  nearly  double  the  room  of 
the  equally  healthy  and  vigorous  but  short-jointed  varie- 
ties, like  the  Delaware,  Rebecca,  etc. 

The  Trellis. — Having  the  border  thus  prepared,  the  next 
12* 


374 


point  is  the  trellis.  The  form  of  this  will  depend  on  the 
situation  it  is  to  occupy,  and  the  mode  of  training  to  be 
adopted.  Fig.  132  represents  one  intended  for  a  wall. 
The  principal  bars  or  frame-work  are  inch-and-a-half 
boards,  three  inches  wide,  nailed  together  at  the  angles. 

It  is  intended  for  one  vine,  and  may  be  the  hight  of 
the  wall  that  it  is  intended  to  occupy.  The  vertical  or 
upright  bars  are  three  feet  apart  and  the  cross  ones  six 
feet;  between  them  are  rods  of  stout  wire.  The  first  or 
lowest  cross-bar  may  be  two  feet  from  the  ground.     It  is 


. 

, 

, 

z 

, 





; 



1- 

- 

• 

- 

- 

• 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

Fig.  132.— TKELLIS    FOR   A    SINGLE   VINE. 

fastened  to  the  wall  by  iron  hooks  or  brackets.  The  best 
and  simplest  mode  of  training  a  vine  on  such  a  trellis  as 
this,  is  to  produce  two  main  branches  or  arms  to  be 
trained  in  a  horizontal  manner  on  the  first  cross-bar. 
From  these  two  arms,  peimanent  upright  canes  are 
trained,  one  to  each  of  the  upright  bars  of  the  trellis. 
These  upright  canes  produce  on  their  sides  a  succession 
of  bearing  shoots  from  year  to  year,  being  pruned  after 
what  is  called  the  "  spur  "  system. 

The  trellis  may  also  be  made  entirely  of  wires,  using 
strong  half-inch  rods  for  the  main  uprights  and  cross-bars, 


THE     GRAPE. 


^75 


then  No.  14  wire  for  intermediates,  and  these  arranged  to 
slide  along  the  main  rods  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
vine  during  its  growth.  The  main  rods  are  secured  to 
the  wall  by  cylinder  liook-staples.  A  neat  and  durable 
trellis  for  vines  in  the  open  garden  along  the  border  (see 
fig.  133)  maybe  made  by  setting  firm  wooden  posts,  well 
bracked,  at  each  end  of  the  line,  then  stretch  one  half-inch 
rod  at  say  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground  and  another 
at  tlie  top  of  the  posts,  then  use  No.  9  wire  for  the  re- 
maining horizontal  lines,  and  at  distances  of  twelve  feet 
along  the  line  sustain  ti»e  horizontal  rods  and  wires  by 
upright  bars  of  iron  one  inch  wide  by  one-quarter  inch 
thick,  the  lower  end  of  each   upiight  let   into  a  stone  in 


Fig.  133.— TKELLIS    OF    WIRES   AND    POSTS. 

the  ground.  Now  place  upright  wires,  secured  at  the 
top  and  bottom,  so  that  tliey  will  slide  to  meet  the  wants 
of  the  shoots  of  the  vine.  This  wire  may  be  of  No.  14 
or  16.  It  is  not  absolutely  essential  that  the  trellis  be 
built  until  the  vines  have  grown  one  season;  but  if  the 
vines  do  well,  the  cost  of  supplying  temporary  stakes, 
etc.,  will  more  than  balance  the  interest  on  the  cost  of 
the  trellis. 

With  the  vine  jjlanted  and  trellis  built  we  have  next  to 
understand 

Pruning. — It  must  first  be  observed  that  the  grape- 
vine bears  its  fruit  on  shoots  of  the  current  year,  produced 


276 


from  eyes  on  the  previous  year's  wood.  Fig.  134  repre- 
sents the  old  wood,  with  its  bearing  shoot.  It  is  impor- 
tant to  understand  this,  because  it  shows  the  necessity  of 
keeping  up  a  supply  of  young  wood  wherever  we  desire 
fruit  to  be  produced. 

It  is  immaterial  what  method  of  training  be  pursued, 
this  principle  of  production  must  always  be  remembered. 

To  illustrate  the  pruning,  we  will  suppose  the  plant  to 
be  one  or  two  years  old,  as  ordinarily  sent  out  from  the 
nursery.  It  may  have  only  one  shoot,  or  it  may  have  sev- 
^^al.     However  this  may  be,  all  are  pruned  off  but  the 


Fig.  134.— FRUITING  BKANCH  Of  THE  GRAPE. 

The  cross-line  near  the  end  shows  where  it  ought  to  be  stopped. 

strongest,  and  it  is  cut  back  to  within  two  eyes  of  its 
base.  These  two  eyes  will  produce  shoots,  and  when  they 
have  made  a  growth  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  weaker 
one  is  rubbed  off  and  tlie  strong  one  trained  up.  It  is  al- 
lowed to  grow  on  until  September,  when  the  end  of  the 
shoot  is  pinched  to  mature  and  strengthen  it.  Any  side 
shoots  that  appear  during  the  summer  should  be  pinched 
off,  as  well  as  any  suckers  that  may  appear  about  the 
roots. 

Fig.  135  shows  the  condition  of  the  plant  or  vine  at  the 
close  of  the  first  season's  growth,  and  the  cross-mark  the 
line  at  which  to  cut  in  pruning  for  the 

Second  Year. — If  the  shoot  of  last  year  made  a  strong 
growth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  it  may  be  now  cut  back  to 
three  eyes,  and  two  canes  be  trained  up ;  but  if  it  made 


THE    GRAPE.  277 

only  a  weak  growth,  it  should  again  be  cut  back  to  two 
eyes,  and  one  shoot  only  trained  up. 

Side  shoots,  laterals,  or  "  thallons,"  as  they  are  some- 
times called,  should  be  carefidly  watch- 
ed, and  as  soon  as  a  leaf  has  formed 
one  inch  in  diameter  the  shoot  should 
be  pinched  off  just  beyond  it,  with 
thumb  and  finger.  In  a  short  time  this 
leaf  will  have  become  of  full  size,  and 
the  bud  at  its  base  have  matured  and 
again  pushed  forth  a  new  shoot,  which 
should  be  stopped  as  at  first.  This 
sometimes  occurs  two,  three,  or  more 
times  in  a  season.  No  suckers  from 
below  the  main  canes  should  be  per- 
mitted to  grow.  In  September  these 
canes  are  to  be  stopped  as  before,  and 
no  fruit  allowed. 

Third  Year. — We  have  now  two 
strong  canes  with  which  we  commence 
the  framework  of  the  vine.  Each  of 
these  is  cut  back  at  the  winter  pruning 
to  within  two  or  three  feet.,  not  huds,  of 
its  base,  bent  in  the  form  of  a  bow,  and 
tied  to  the  lower  wire  of  the  trellis. 
After  the  buds  have  started  in  the 
spring,  and  made  a  growth  of  four  to 
six  inches,  these  canes  should  be  loosen- 
ed and  laid  in,  as  in  fig.  136,  and  fast- 
ened to  the  lower  horizontal  bar  of 
the  trellis.  The  bud  on  the  end  of 
each  at  c,  will  produce  a  shoot  to  con- 
tinue the  prolonginent  in  a  hoiizontal  fj,,.  i35._vine  at  the 
direction,  and  a  bud  {a)  on  the  upper  end  of  the  first  teak. 
side  of  each  will  produce  a  shoot  to  be  trained  to  one  of 
the  upright  bars — the  first  one  on  its  division,  or  half  of 


278 


PRUNING. 


its  trellis ;  all  others  are  rubbed  off,  or  tbe  buds  cut  out. 
Thus  each  of  these  arms  produces  two  shoots — an  up* 
ricfht  and  a  horizontal  one.     Durincf  the   summer,  these 


Fig.    136.— VINE    WITH   ITS   ARMS   LAID   DOWN. 

The  arms  to  be  shortened  at  c,  the  bnd  a  to  be  allowed  to  produce  a  shoot. 

shoots  are  carefully  tied  in  as  required,  the  side  shoots 
pinched  off  from  time  to  time,  and  all  suckers  rubbed 
out  as  they  appear.  They  are  also  stopped  in  September, 
as  before. 

Fourth  Year. — Each  of  last  year's  shoots  is  cut  back 
to  within  three  feet  of  its  base.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
cut  the  horizontal  ones  closer  than  the  upright  ones,  to 
obtain  another  strong  upright  shoot.     The  two  upright 

canes  already  es- 
tablished will  pro- 
duce a  shoot  from 
their  tops,  to  con- 
tinue their  exten- 
sion upwards,  and 
the  horizontal  ones, 
as  before,  produce 
a  shoot  at  the  point 
to  be  cai-ried  out- 
wards, and  one  on 
the  top  to  be  train- 
ed up  to  one  of 
the  upriglit  bars.  This  year  several  fruit  shoots  will 
be  produced,  on  each  of  which  one  or  two  bunches  of 
grapes  may  be  ripened.  In  this  way  the  vine  goes  on 
adding  every  season  two  new  upright  canes,  and  two  or 
three  feet  in  length  to  the  previous  ones,  until  the  whole 
trellis  is  covered  :   when  the  management  will  consist  in 


Fig.  137. 

Vine  with  horizontal  arms,  A,  A^  and  upright  per- 
manent canes,  spur-pruned. 


THE    GRAPE.  279 

pruning  the  spurs  ^every  winter  to  about  three  eyes.  Each 
fruit  branch  should  only  he  allowed  to  produce  two 
bunches  of  fruit,  and  when  the  shoot  has  made  four  to  sii 
leaves  beyond  the  last  bunch  of  fruit  the  end  should  be 
pinched.  This  will,  of  course,  cause  the  full  development 
of  the  foliage,  and  in  a  short  time  the  last  bud  will  push 
out  a  side  shoot  or  lateraJ,  which  must  again  and  again 
be  pinched  as  it  grows.  The  object  of  this  is  to  arrest 
the  production  of  useless  wood  and  turn  the  sap  to  the 
benefit  of  the  fruit.  Fig.  137  represents  the  appearance 
of  a  vine  trained  in  this  way. 

By  such  a  system  as  this  the  trellis  is  covered  in  every 
part  with  bearing  wood,  the  fruit  and  the  foliage  are  all 
rjxposed  fully  to  the  sun,  a  uniformity  of  vigor  is  main- 
tained between  the  diiferent  parts,  and  the  appearance  is 
beautiful. 

There  are  many  other  forms  of  training,  each  of  which 
has  its  merits  and  its  advocates,  but  it  should  always  be 
remembered  tliat  the  tendency  of  sap  in  all  vegetation  is 
toward  the  extreme  shoot,  or  end,  and  any  system  of 
training  that  assists  that  will  soon  render  weak  and  barren 
the  buds  nearest  the  crown.  The  Thomery  system,  so 
".ailed  from  its  being  practised  in  a  little  village  of  that 
name  in  France,  is  one  of  the  neatest  and  most  systematic, 
as  well  as  effective  when  thoroughly  practised,  but  it  re- 
quires considerable  skill  and  much  labor.  It  is,  in  brief, 
to  form  the  trellis  as  we  Avould  for  any  other  mode,  only 
making  it  higher,  the  placing  the  vines  at  equal  distances, 
and  training  the  first  and  third  with  arms  to  the  lower 
wire ;  the  second  and  fourth  have  the  main  stem  carried 
up  to  the  second  wire,  where  the  arms  are  formed. 

In  fruiting,  canes  are  gi"Own  annually  from  spurs  along 
these  arms,  and  tied  as  they  grow  to  the  upright  wires  on 
the  trellis.  It  is  estimated  that  to  keep  a  vine  in  good 
bearing  condition,  it  should  not  cover,  at  any  time,  over 
six  to  eight  feet  of  one  wire  of  the  trellis,  and,  as  before 


280 


PETJNING, 


stated,  if  the  trellis  is  required  to  be  high,  it  may  be  so 
done  by  first  training  the  main  stem  of  the  vine  to  the 
hight  of  trellis  wire  upon  which  it  is  to  be  grown. 

Another  mode,  termed  the  Guyot  system,  consists  in 
growing  two  canes  upon  the  vine  the  second  year,  one  of 
which  is  cut  back  to  two  buds,  and  the  other  to  two  or 
three  feet,  and  tied  down  to  the  lower  wire  (see  fig.  138). 
Upon  this  lower  or  horizontal  cane,  the  fruit  is  grown, 
and  the  shoots,  as  they  extend,  are  tied  to  the  next  wire 
above.  The  two  canes  from  the  spur  are  grown  to  about 
five  feet,  when  they  are  stopped  in,  and  all  the  season  the 
pinching  of  the  side  shoots,  or  laterals,  is  continued,  and 


Fii;.   loS.— VINE    TRAINED   ON   THE    GUTOT    SYSTEM. 

all  suckers  rubbed  away.  This  system  is  modified  or 
changed  in  the  hands  of  some  growers,  by  not  fruiting 
the  horizontal  cane  the  first  year  it  is  laid  in,  but  pinching 
off  all  fruit,  and  carrying  upright  ciuies,  to  be  stopped  at 
the  second  or  third  wire,  according  to  strength  of  vine, 
and  on  them  to  make  the  fruit  the  following  year.  This 
is  again  clianged  by  some  growers  spurring  back  each  al- 
ternate cane  springing  from  the  horizontal  one,  and  so 
fruiting  alternately.  Others,  again,  cut  back  these  upright 
canes  from  the  arm  in  proportion  as  they  extend  from  the 
main  vine.  The  upright  cane  nearest  the  main  vine  is  thus 
left,  say  two  feet,  and  the  next  from  it  fourteen  inches,  and 


THE    6BAPB. 


281 


80  reducing  that  the  end  of  the  arm  has  only  a  bud  from 
which  to  grow  a  new  cane  (see  fig.  139).  This  is  sup- 
posed to  assist  in  more  equally  distributing  the  flow  of 
sap.  The  upright  canes  from  the  main  vine  are  yearly 
cut  back  and  renewed  for  use  as  arras  when  wanted. 
In  cases  where*  the  modes  of  training  above  described 


r 

. 

% 

III 

'l             1 

1      i                    1 

1 

i 

/ 

s 

1 

'-^-1 

s->- 

?SmT^ 

'( 

-^^  1 

ii£^ 

^^S 

^^ 

:P^'^ 

^^pl 

Fig.  139. — VINE   ON  THE  GUTOT  SYSTEM. 

cannot  be  conveniently  adopted,  two  or  three  poles,  twelve 
to  fifteen  feet  high,  may  be  sunk  in  the  ground,  with  a 
space  of  three  or  four  feet  between  them  at  the  bottom, 
and  fastened  together  at  the  top,  forming  a  cone  around 
which  the  permanent  canes  may  be  trained  in  a  spiral 
manner. 

This  produces  a  very  beautiful  efiect,  and  occupies  com- 
paratively little  space,  but  the  grapes  will  not  all  ripen  so 


well,  nor  will  the  training  be  so  easy  as  on  tlie  flat  surface 
of  a  trellis. 

Another  way  of  arranging  the  poles  is  with  the  tops 
outwardly,  and  securing  them  at  distances  by  hoops. 
This  mode  gives  light  and  air  to  the  vine,  but  requires 
good  stout  poles,  well  set  in  the  ground,  to  support  it 
against  strong  winds. 

Very  tasteful  arbors  may  also  be  made  over  some  of  the 
walks,  by  training  the  vine  over  the  wood-work,  or  wire 
frame,  in  the  same  manner  as  on  a  trellis. 

This  is  a  very  common  practice  and  offers  many  advan- 
tages. Ingenious  persons  who  care  well  for  their  garden, 
as  well  in  its  appearance  as  its  productions,  will  conceive 
other  plans  still  better  adapted  to  their  particular  wants 
and.  taste  than  any  of  these ;  but  the  main  point  must 
always  be  kept  in  view,  that  is,  to  provide  for  the  foliage 
a  free,  open  exposure  to  the  sun.  Any  system  that  does 
not  secure  this,  will  fail  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

In  the  management  of  a  grape-vine,  as  in  the  manage- 
ment of  other  trees,  summer  pruning,  i.  e.,  pinching  the 
ends  of  shoots,  not  cutting  away  of  foliage,  is  of  great 
consequence.  If  a  vine  is  left  to  itself  all  summer,  or  from 
one  winter  pruning  to  another,  it  will  be  found  that  avast 
quantity  of  useless  wood  has  been  jn-oduced,  and  that  to 
the  serious  detriment  of  the  bearing  shoots  for  the  follow- 
ing year.  The  growing  vine  should  be  frequently  visited, 
shoots  tied  in,  strong  ones  checked,  superfluous  ones 
rubbed  off,  and  every  part  kept  in  its  proper  place,  and  in 
a  proper  degree  of  vigor. 

VINETAKD    CULTURE. 

A  quarter  of  a  century  since,  taking  our  knowledge  of 
position,  soiU,  etc.,  from  the  vineyards  of  Europe,  we  sup- 
posed that  hill-sides,  or  warm,  sheltered  positions  only, 
were  suited  to  the  culture  of  the  grape,  but  thanks  to  the 


THE    GRAPE.  »03 

energy  and  spirit  of  trial  which  pervades  the  people  of 
this  country,  we  have  now  such  a  variety,  and  so  suited 
to  soils,  climates,  nnd  localities,  that  the  culture  of  the 
grape  may  be  said  to  be  adapted,  in  the  way  of  profitable 
culture,  to  nearly  every  variety  of  soil,  climate,  or  location. 

The  quantity  of  grapes  produced  as  an  item  of  profit 
per  acre,  depends  much  upon  soils,  location,  nearness  to 
market,  and  variety  grown.  The  statements  of  growers 
vary  greatly  in  the  amount,  all  the  way  from  one  and  a 
half  tons  to  five  and  six  tons  per  acre,  and  the  gross  re- 
ceipts are  given  all  the  way  from  three  hundred  to  eight 
kandred  dollars. 

Such  varieties  as  the  Concord,  Isabella,  etc.,  it  may  be 
safely  estimated,  will  produce  one  year  with  another  from 
two  to  three  tons,  and  the  Delaware,  Miles,  etc.,  from^  one 
and  a  half  to  two  tons  per  acre;  Seasons,  insects,  and 
diseases,  care  and  culture  will,  of  course,  vary  results,  and 
while  the  grower  may  one  season  obtain  four  tons  to  the 
acre,  the  same  vines  anotlier  year  may  not  produce  over 
one  ton  of  fine,  marketable  fruit. 

It  should,  however,  be  remembered  that  while  certain 
varieties  of  the  grape  can  be  grown  in  varied  soils  and 
locations,  there  is  a  requisite  to  be  obtained  for  the  pro- 
duction of  the  richest  grapes  and  the  best  vines  ;  that 
requisite  being  in  the  sugar  contained  in  the  fruit,  and  only 
to  be  had  in  the  grape  Avhen  ])lanted  in  soil  and  location 
exactly  suited  to  its  best  development. 

The  grower  who  seeks  only  for  a  table  market,  has  first 
to  select  the  variety  to  meet  his  soil  and  location,  and 
then  to  grow  large  berries  and  bunches,  well  colored,  and 
just  sufficiently  matured  to  make  them  vinously  sweet. 
Tne  grower  for  wine  purposes  must  have  another  view — 
fo  his  crop  value  depends  upon  the  full  maturation  of  the 
su^ar  in  his  grapes. 

Soils  (md  Situation. — Although  we  have  said  such  is 
th%  variety  of  grapes  now  cultivated  that  some  one  may 


284  PRUNING. 

be  selected  for  nearly  every  soil  and  location,  yet  we  do 
not  thereby  desire  to  convey  the  idea  that  all  soils  and  lo- 
cations are  equally  adapted  to  the  grape.  Our  experience 
and  observation  have  taught  us  that  it  is  only  upon  a  com- 
paratively few  locations  and  soils  that  the  best  grapes  are 
produced.  A  high  elevation,  sloping  to  the  east  and 
south,  or,  if  a  large  lake  or  body  of  water  lie  on  the 
north,  then  a  gentle  slope  to  the  south,  as  along  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  with  a  soil  of  clay  underlaid  with 
broken  shale  rock,  is,  perhaps,  the  best  of  all  soils  and  lo- 
catiojis.  The  next  to  this  is  a  rolling  and  moderately  ele- 
vated position,  adjacent  to  some  large  body  of  water,  a 
stiff  clay,  with  an  underlay  of  shale  rock ;  next,  is  the 
same  location  witli  a  clay  soil  resting  on  a  gravel  bed. 
The  next  is  a  good,  rich,  clayey  loam,  resting  upon  a  shale 
or  gravel  bed,  and  lying  nearly  level ;  and  the  last  we 
would  use  for  the  grape,  in  any  case,  is  a  light,  sandy 
loam,  resting  either  upon  a  compact  yellow  sand  or  a 
gravel.  This  last  will  produce  line,  handsome  bunches, 
of  many  varieties,  but  the  durability  of  vines  in  such 
localities  is  doubtful. 

Shelter. — Shelter  is  not  indispensable  to  all  vineyards, 
but  many  localities  exposed  to  violent  winds  may  be 
benefited  materially  by  the  planting  of  groups  or  masses 
of  trees,  at  proper  distances,  on  the  side  from  whence 
come  the  strongest  winds.  Evergreens  ameliorate  the 
temperature  of  the  winds  better  than  deciduous  trees, 
but,  ill  absence  of  them,  the  planting  of  Beech,  Maple, 
etc.,  will  assist  in  checking  the  liability  to  sudden 
changes,  and  protect  the  vines  and  fruit  from  the  effects 
of  the  high  wind,  which,  as  we  now  write,  October,  1871, 
has  done  much  damage  to  oiir  owm  vineyard. 

Preparatkm  of  the  Soil. — The  first  preparation  of  the 
soil  is  an  important  item  in  the  forming  of  a  vineyard. 
The  vigor  and  healthiness  of  the  first  and  second  years' 
growth  of  the  vine  often  decide  their  future.     No  young 


THE    GRAPE.  285 

plants,  with  small  fibrous  roots,  can  be  made  to  grow 
rapidly  unless  the  soil  be  fine  and  rich.  This  applies  to  the 
grape-vine  ;  hence  the  necessity  of  making  the  soil  for  the 
planting  of  the  vineyard  deep  and  rich  at  the  outset.  If 
the  land  is  level  so  that  it  can  be  plowed,  then  plow  it  as 
deep  as  possible  with  the  common  plow,  and  follow  in 
the  furrow  with  a  subsoil  plow,  thus  loosening  the  ground 
to  a  depth  of  not  less  than  sixteen  to  twenty  inches,  the 
deeper  the  better.  Hill-sides  not  too  steep  may  be  pre- 
pared by  using  a  side-hill  plow,  and  in  plowing  leaving 
a  strip  of  three  or  four  feet  unplowed  at  distances  of 
from  eight  to  twenty  feet,  for  the  purpose  of  prevent- 
ing washing.  Very  steep  hill-sides  must  be  dug  with 
the  pick  and  spade.  If  the  ground  is  not  what  is  called 
in  good  heart,  but  has  been  cropped  yearly  without 
manure,  it  should  be  dressed  with  a  coat  of  ashes,  bone- 
dust,  or  well-rotted  barn-yard  manure,  and  worked  in  with 
the  harrow  or  cultivator. 

Time  to  Plant. — Where  the  soil  is  well  drained,  or  of  a 
light  sandy  or  loamy  character,  and  the  climate  not  too  se- 
vere, we  should  prefer  to  plant  in  the  fall.  In  such  case  we 
should  cover  the  entire  plant  with  an  inch  or  so  of  soil,  to 
be  removed  as  soon  as  the  frost  will  permit,  in  the  spring. 
The  advantages  of  planting  in  the  fall  are,  that  as  a  rule 
the  ground  works  better,  and  the  work  is  therefore  better 
done ;  add  to  this  that  the  earth  becomes  well  settled 
among  the  roots  and  often  new  fibres  will  be  thrown  out, 
ready  for  growth  in  spring.  But  we  have  planted  at  all 
periods,  when  the  ground  would  work,  from  October  to 
June,  and,  if  our  plants  were  in  good  condition,  have  been 
successful. 

Kind  of  Plants. — Vines  one  or  two  years  old,  with 
well-ripened  tops  and  roots,  the  latter  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  are  perhaps  the  best,  whether  grown 
from  single  or  triple-eyed  cuttings,  or  by  layers. 

Distance  to  Plant. — The   distance  apart   at  which  to 


plant  must  depend  upon  the  soil,  variety,  and  mode  of 
training,  separately  and  collectively.  Nearly  all  varieties 
have  a  tendency  to  make  more  wood  in  light,  sandy,  grav- 
elly, or  loamy  soils,  than  on  clays.  Strong,  rampant- 
growing  sorts,  as  the  Concord,  Ives',  Norton's  Virginia, 
Clinton,  etc.,  on  loamy  or  lich  soils,  should  have  at 
least  ten  or  twelve  feet  space  on  the  row,  and  the  rows 
eight  feet  apart.  If  the  ground  is  of  a  heavy  clay,  then 
the  distance  on  the  rows  may  be  reduced  two  feet.  For 
varieties  like  Catawba,  lona,  etc.,  eight  feet  apart  each 
way  is  about  right.  Delaware,  Walter,  and  other  short- 
jointed  varieties  may  be  planted  at  six  feet  in  the  rows, 
the  rows  eight  feet.  The  above,  if  the  training  is  to  be 
upon  trellis,  in  any  of  the  renewal  modes.  If  the  train- 
ing is  to  be  on  stakes,  in  the  serpentine  or  bow  system, 
then  the  distance  may  be  reduced  one  foot  each  way.  For 
very  long  pruning  and  training  on  trellis,  the  distance 
must  be  increased,  some  cultivators  planting  at  twelve 
feet,  with  the  vines  eighteen  feet  apart  in  the  row. 

Depth  to  Plant. — In  heavy  soils  the  upper  tier  of  roots 
should  always  have  at  least  four  to  five  inches  of  earth 
over  them,  and  in  light  or  dry  soils  six  to  eight  inches. 

Pruning — when  and  how. — For  the  annual  or  winter 
pruning  the  best  time  is  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  ripened  in 
the  fall,  but  the  work  may  be  done  any  time  until  the 
warmth  of  spring  starts  a  rapid  circulation  of  sap.  Never 
cut  close  to  a  bud,  but  leave  an  inch  or  two  of  wood  be^ 
yond.  For  summer  pruning,  see  Garden  Culture,  page 
276,  and  for  the  length  of  wood  left  at  the  winter  pruning, 
refer  to  the  method  of  training  that  it  is  proposed  to 
practise. 

Modes  of  Training. — Under  the  head  of  Garden  Cul- 
ture, we  have  described  several  modes  of  training  that 
are  sometimes  practised  in  the  vineyard,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred.  In  Ohio  and  Missouri,  the  mode  gen- 
erally practised  is  called  the  renewal-cane  system,  and  con- 


THE    GRAPE.  287 

sists  in  yearly  cutting  away  all  the  wood  of  two  years 
old  or  more.  The  vine  is  taken,  say  at  the  close  of  the 
second  summer,  with,  as  supposed,  three  good  strong 
canes  grown  from  a  point  near  the  ground ;  two  of  these 
canes  are  cut  back  to  from  four  to  six  feet,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  vine,  and  are  tied  to  the  lower  wire 
in  a  bowed  shape  (see  fig.  140),  while  the  third  cane  is 
cut  back  to  three  or  five  buds,  according  to  the  age  and 
vigor  of  the  vine.  The  long  bent  canes  are  for  fruiting, 
while  on  the  shoots  that  grow  from  the  centre  cane  all 
the  fruit  is  rubbed  ofi".     The  next  season  the  bearing  canes 


Fi^.  140.— BOW   TRAINING. 

are  cut  away,  two  or  three  new  canes  are  laid  in  for  fruit, 
the  centre  cane  cut  back  as  before,  for  new  shoots,  and  so 
from  year  to  yenr  the  practice  repeated.  Some  vignerons 
])ractise  training  and  fruituig  by  leaving  very  long  canes, 
with  more  or  less  of  the  laterals,  these  latter  being  pruned 
to  one  or  two  buds,  from  which,  it  is  claimed,  some  of  the 
best  fruit  is  grown.  Such  varieties  as  the  Clinton,  Nor- 
ton's Virginia,  Concord,  etc.,  are  by  some  considered  best 
when  grown  in  this  way. 

Training  upon  stakes  is  a  ]iractice  esteemed  by  many 
as  giving  better  circulation  of  air  among  the  vines.  Some 
use  two  stakes,  on  one  of  which  two  canes  of  the  previ- 


288 


rRUNING. 


ous  year's  growth  are  tied  spirally  (see  fig.  141),  and  on 
the  other  the  new  rihoots  are  conducted  as  they  grow,  and 
tied  so  as  not  to  be  removed.  In  the  winter  pruning  these 
canes  are  shortened,  and  those  that 
bore  last  year-  are  cut  down  for  the 
production  of  new  canes. 

Another  practice  is  to  use  three 
stakes,  on  the  centre  one  of  which 
the  new  shoots  are  grown,  and  oa 
the  two  outside  ones  a  cane  is  train- 
ed for  fruiting.  Another  system 
of  training  on  stakes  is  to  cut  back 
the  vine  to  three  or  four  eyes  for 
fruiting,  and  two  or  so  for  new 
canes ;  the  whole,  then,  as  they 
grow,  are  trained  to  the  one  stake. 
This  practice  answers  for  some  weak 
growers,  or  for  those  with  sparse 
foliage,  but  is  not  advisable  with 
strong-growing,  vigorous  sorts. 

For  more  complete  details  of 
modes  of  grape-growing  and  prun- 
ing, we  refer  to  the  various  valuable  books  devoted  ex- 
clusively to  the  subject. 


141. — SPIRAl,    TRAIN- 
ING. 


CULTURE    OF   FOREIGN   GRAPES   IN   COLD   VINERIES. 


Repeated  experiments  made  during  many  years  in  all 
parts  of  the  country,  have  convinced  people  generally  that 
the  delicious  varietip'?  of  the  foreign  grape  cannot  be  pro- 
duced with  any  considerable  degree  of  success  in  the  open 
air.  A  large  number  of  the  iiardiest  French  and  German 
sorts  have  been  tested  in  our  ground,  but  not  one  of  them 
has  borne  satisfactorily.  A  few  good  bunches  have  been 
obtained  the  first  season  or  two  under  very  favorable  cir- 


THE    GRAPE.  ZO\3 

cumstances ;  but  after  that  the  failure  is  complete.     This 
has  rendered  glass,  heat,  and  slielter  necessary. 

The  Buildings. — These  are  constructed  of  all  sizes 
and  at  various  degrees  of  expense.  Some  have  single 
lean-to  roofs ;  others  have  double  or  span  roofs.  The 
walls  of  some  are  built  of  brick  or  stone ;  others  are 
wholly  of  wood.  The  cheapest  and  simplest  structure 
of  this  kind  is  the  lean-to.  The  back  may  be  nine  or 
ten  feet  high,  composed  of  strong  cedar  posts  six  feet 
apart,  and  boarded  up  on  both  sides.  The  ends  are 
made  in  the  same  manner.  The  front  may  be  two  or 
three  feet  high,  made  of  posts,  and  boards  or  planks,  same 
as  the  back.  Sills  or  plates  are  put  on  the  front  and  back 
wall:*,  and  then  rafters  at  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet 
apart.  The  sashes  slip  in  between  the  rafters,  and  rest  on 
a  strip  of  wood  on  their  sides.  Unless  the  grapery  be 
very  small,  the  sash  should  be  in  two  parts,  the  lower  one 
twice  as  long  as  the  upper,  and  fixed ;  the  \ipper  to  slide 
down  over  the  under  one  on  pulleys,  to  ventilate  the  house. 
Doors  are  in  each  end  at  the  back,  and  means  are  provided 
for  admitting  air  in  front  by  the  opening  of  boards  like 
shutters. 

But  a  cheap  structure  is  not  the  best  economy,  and  while 
such  may  be  admissible,  on  a  merely  commercial  place,  it 
would  be  out  of  character  in  any  neatly  kept  groixnds. 
The  maxim,  that  "  whatever  is  worth  doing  is  worth 
doing  well,"  holds  good  in  the  construction  of  a  grapery, 
and  therefore,  however  plain  the  architecture  of  the  de- 
sign, the  materials  should  be  of  the  best,  the  arrangement 
convenient,  and  the  putting  together  done  in  a  workman- j 
like  manner. 

Lean-to  or  single-roof  houses  may  frequently  be  built 
against  the  south  or  east  side  of  a  wall  or  out-building, 
and  thus  can  be  constructed  cheaply,  but  a  span-roofed 
house  is  much  the  best. 

Fig.  142  gives  a  good  representation  of  a  single-roof 
13 


290 


'the   C{KAi>E^ 


house  against  a  wall,  and  fig.  143  represents  a  span  cur- 
vilinear -  roofed 
house,  20  X  30 
feet,  which  we 
have  built  upon 
our  own  grounds 
and  found  very- 
successful. 

Fig.  144  is  a 
representation  of 
a  straight  -  roof 
house,  for  cold 
grapery,  taken 
from  Woood- 
ward's  Graperies. 
Position  of 
House. — A  south 
or  south  -  east 
fronting  is  the 
best  for  a  lean-to 
house,  and  for 
span  roofs  a  north 
and  south  line  af- 
fords the  most 
equal  amount  of 
sunlight. 

2'he  border  is 
made  for  the 
vines  outside  the 
front  wall,  or  part 
outside  and  part 
in,  twelve  to  six- 
teen feet  wide, 
also  two  or  three 
deep.       This    is 

done  by  digging  a  trench  or  pit  the  length  and  width ; 


THE    GEAPE. 


291 


draining  it  thoroughly,  that  not  a  drop  of  water  can  lodge 
about  it.  Then  lay  a  few  inches  of  small  stones,  broken 
bricks,  shells,  etc.,  in  the  bottom  for  drainage ;  and  fill  up 
the  remainder,  six  inches  to  two  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  ground,  and  sloping  outwards,  with  a  good  compost, 
of  three-fourths  surface  loam  (turf  from  an  old  jjasture), 
and  the  other  of  well-rotted  stable  manure.  All  these 
must  be  prepared  by  frequent  turning  and  mixing  a  few 
months  beforehand. 

The  vines  may  be  one  or  two  years  old,  and  are  prefer- 


Fij;.    143.— SPAN   CURVILINEAR-ROOFED   HOUSE. 

able  raised  in  pots  from  single  eyes.  They  should  be 
planted  in  the  spring.  A  plant  is  placed  under  each  rafter 
outside,  or  inside,  and  carried  through  under  the  wall 
into  the  house.  The  stem  is  cut  back  to  two  or  three 
eyes,  and  when  these  break  the  strongest  shoot  is  selected, 
and  the  others  pinched  oflT.  Tliis  shoot  is  trained,  as  it 
grows,  to  a  light  trellis  of  iron,  or  thick  wire  rods  attached 
CO  the  rafter,  and  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  from  the  glass. 
If  all  goes  well,  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  house  that  sea- 
son. In  September  the  top  may  be  pinched  to  check  the 
flow  of  sap,  and  throw  it  more  into  the  lateral  buds  to 
increase  their  strength.  During  the  summer  no  other 
shoot  is  allowed  to  grow  but  this. 


293 


THE    GRAPE. 


Prujiing.— In  November  or  December  it  is  taken  down, 
pruned,  if  according  to   the  spur  system,  which   is  the 

simplest,  to  within 
three  or  four  feet  of 
its  base,  laid  on  the 
ground,  and  covered 
with  leaves,  evergreen 
boughs,  or  mats.  There 
it  remains  till  the  buds 
begin  to  swell  in  the 
spring,  when  it  is 
again  fastened  to  the 
trellis.  The  shoot  from 
the  terminal  bud  con- 
tinues the  cane,  and  no 
fruit  is  allowed  on  it. 
Those  below  it  pro- 
duce lateral  shoots, 
from  each  of  which  a 
bunch  of  grapes  may 
be  taken,  and  each  of 
these  must  be  stopped 
at  three  eyes  above 
the  bunch  ;  and  this  is 
repeated  as  often  as 
necessary,  to  give  the 
fruit  the  whole  benefit 
of  the  sap.  The  lead- 
ing shoot  is  again 
stopped  in  September 
by  pinching  off  its 
I  n         point,  to  increase  the 

'   W^mm  buds.       In     the    fall, 

when  the  leaves  have  dropped,  the  vine  is  again  taken 
down.     The  leader  is  pruned  back  to  within  three  to 


THE   GKAPE.  }i\fd 

four  feet  of  the  old  wood.  The  laterals  that  have  borne 
are  pruned  to  three  eyes,  and  it  is  then  covered  up.  This 
is  the  routine  of  spur  training.  In  long  cane  pruning,  the 
young  shoot,  after  the  first  season's  growth,  is  cut  back  to 
three  eyes,  and  the  next  season  two  shoots  are  trained  up. 
The  next  season  the  strongest  is  selected  for  fruit,  and 
pruned  to  about  three  feet ;  each  of  the  eyes  left  will  pro- 
duce a  fruit  shoot,  from  which  one  bunch  only  will  be 
taken.  The  weaker  cane  is  cut  back  to  one  eye,  and  this 
produces  a  shoot  for  next  year's  bearing,  and  so  this  goes 
on.  When  the  vine  becomes  strong,  several  bearing  canes 
may  be  provided  for  every  season.  This  renewal  or  long 
cane  is  very  simple,  and  requires  much  less  cutting  than 
the  spur.  It  also  produces  a  superior  quality  of  fruit,  but 
in  general  not  so  l;\rge  a  quantity. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. — When  the  fruit  attains  the  size 
of  a  garden  pea,  one  third  of  the  smaller  ones  should  be 
cut  out  carefully  with  pointed  scissors  (see  implements) 
that  are  prepared  for  this  purpose.  The  object  of  this  is, 
to  allow  the  fruits  to  swell  out  to  their  full  size.  Varieties 
that  produce  very  compact  bunches  require  more  severe 
thinning  than  those  of  a  loose,  open  bunch. 

Cleaning  the  Vine. — At  the  time  the  vines  are  taken 
from  their  winter  quarters  and  trellised,  they  should  be 
well  washed  with  a  solution  of  soft  soap  and  tobacco- 
water,  to  kill  all  eggs  of  insects,  and  remove  all  loose 
bark  and  filth  that  may  have  accumulated  on  them  during 
the  season  previous.  The  house,  too,  should  be  cleaned 
and  renovated  at  the  same  time. 

Syringing  the  Yines  and  the  Fruit. — Every  one  who 
has  a  grapery  must  be  provided  with  a  good  hand-syringe, 
for  this  is  necessary  during  the  whole  season.  As  soon  as 
they  begin  to  grow,  they  should  be  occasionally  syringed 
in  the  morning,  except  while  they  are  in  bloom.  After 
the  fruit  has  set,  they  should  be  syringed  every  evening, 
and  the  house  kept  closed  until  the  next  forenoon  when 


294  ORCHARD    HOUSES. 

the  sun  is  out  warm.  The  inside  border  should  receive 
frequent  and  ample  supplies  of  water.  In  a  dry  time  the 
outside  border  should  also  be  freely  watered. 

Regulating  the  Temperature. — When  the  temperature 
exceeds  ninety  to  one  hundred  degrees,  air  should  be  ad- 
mitted at  the  top,  and,  if  necessary,  at  the  bottom.  The 
admission  of  abundance  of  air  is  one  of  the  important 
features  of  the  management  of  the  grapery. 

To  Prevent  Mildew. — This  may  be  looked  for  in  July. 
Syringing  freely  night  and  morning,  and  the  admission  of 
air  during  the  warmest  hours  of  the  day,  are  the  best  pre- 
ventives of  this  disease.  Dust  sulphur  on  the  floor,  at  tlie 
rate  of  one  pound  for  every  twenty  square  feet ;  and  if  the 
mildew  continues  to  increase,  syringe  the  vines  in  the  even- 
ing, and  dust  the  foliage  with  sulphur. 

This  is  but  an  imperfect  outline  of  the  management  of 
a  cold  grapery.  Those  who  wish  full  information  on  all 
points  of  the  subject,  should  consult  some  of  the  special 
treatises  on  the  culture  of  the  grape  under  glass. 

ORCHARD    HOUSES. 

The  advantages  of  glass  structures  for  the  growing  of 
all  varieties  of  fruits  are  but  yet  little  appreciated.  By 
means  of  the  orchard  house,  peaclies,  apricots,  and  indeed 
all  varieties  of  fruits  may  be  grown  without  fear  of  insects 
or  frost. 

By  it  the  owner  of  a  small  garden  or  city  lot  can  secure 
to  himself  a  large  amount  of  fruit  grown  in  a  small  si)ace, 
and  at  a  time  when  it  cannot  be  purchased. 

To  the  commercial  fruit-grower  the  orchard  house  of- 
fers jiecuniary  profit  from  the  sale  of  fruit ;  and  to  the 
nurseryman  it  is  becoming  yearly  more  and  more  a  neces- 
sity, toward  testing  the  correctness  of  new  varieties  from 
'^  bich  to  propagate. 

The  construction  of  an  orchard  house  is  similar  to  that 


OROHARU   HOUSES. 


S95 


of  ft  grapery,  except  that  it  should  be  higher  at  tlie  sides, 
with  the  roof  more  flattened,  in  order  tliat  the  trees  may 
be  brought  as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  Ventilation  is 
an  important  item,  as  too  great  heat,  or  a  confined  atmos- 
phere, are  inc'onij)atible  with  success.  A  span-roof  house 
should  have  ventilators  all  along  the  bottom  and  top,  and 
lean-to  houses  require  even  more  openings  than  span-roofs. 

Mr.  Rivers,  of  England,  who  first  set  in  motion  the  art 
of  fruiting  trees  in  the  house,  built  his  first  houses  like 
sheds,  or  what  is  termed  lean-to,  and  so  far  the  most  of 
the  structures  erected  in  this  country  for  this  purpose 
have  been  of  that  style.  The  house  of  Mr,  Pullen,  in 
New  Jersey,  which  has  proved  a  commercial  success,  is 
fourteen  feet  wide  and  one  hun- 
dred feet  long.  The  house  of 
Mr.  Levering  is  the  same  width, 
with  the  back  wall  twelve  feet 
and  the  front  wall  four  feet 
high.  Fig.  145  is  an  end  view, 
taken  from  Dr.  Norris'  Avork  on 
"  Fruit  Trees  in  Pots,"  in  which 
the  interior  arrangement  is 
given  as  follows :  "  The  fruit 
border  (three  feet  six  inches 
wide)  is  raised  nine  inches  above 
the  walk  (which  is  two  feet  six  inches  wide)  ;  the  first 
back  border  is  three  feet  wide  and  raised  sixteen  inches 
above  the  walk.  The  second  back  l>order  is  raised  one 
foot  above  the  front  one  and  is  four  feet  wide." 

In  "  Peach  Culture,"  by  J.  A.  Fulton,  a  lean-to  house, 
twelve  feet  wide  by  fifty  feet  long,  is  described,  with  the 
back  wall  fourteen  feet  high  and  the  front  f  )ur  feet  (see 
fig.  146),  In  this  house  it  will  be  seen  that  the  lower  range 
of  sash  is  hung  on  hinges  to  a  plate  securing  the  lower 
ends  of  the  upper  sash,  and  no  other  ventilation  is  sup- 
plied, except  by  the  opening  of  doors.     It  is  designed,  in 


Fi"-.  145.— END  VIEW  OF  HOUSE. 


296 


ORCHARD    HOUSES. 


this  house,  to  grow  the  plants  in  the  ground,  not  in  pots 
or  tubs — a  practice  which  we,  from  our  own  experience, 
cannot  recommend. 

Some  years  since  we  built  upon  our  own  grounds  a  epan- 
roof  house,  twenty-five  by  seventy  feet,  which  we  have 
used  very  successfully  (fig.  147).  The  interior  arrange- 
ment is  with  border  along  the  sides,  a  walk  three  feet  wide 


VI  II  iioisi:  Ijtoiti  FuUo)i\  Pidi/t  ( 


all  around,  and  a  bed  in  center,  the  beds  or  tables  all  on 
the  same  level. 

The  advantages  of  a  span-roof  house  over  a  lean-to,  by 
the  greater  and  more  equable  difi'usion  of  light,  and  the 
more  tasteful  appearance  which  can  be  made  both  out- 
side and  inside,  point  to  it  as  the  most  desirable. 

Fig.  148  shows  a  section  of  a  movable  house  on  iron 
supports,  the  house  fourteen  feet  wide  and  constructed 
of  length  as  desired.  These  houses  are  built  in  England 
— our  sketch  is  from  Pearson — but  we  do  not  know  of  any 
in  this  country. 

Although  the  first  growing  by  Mr.  Rivers  was  of  trees 
in  a  Louse  free  from  artificial  heat,  yet  he  has  found  the 
advantage  of  heating,  and  it  is  proved  that  with  us  a 


OKCHARD   HOUSES. 


297 


certain  amount  of  artificial  heat  is  necessary,  in  order  to 
get  the  fruit  much  in  advance  of  what  it  would  be  out 
of  doors. 

Varieties  of  Trees. — The  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  plum, 
and  cherry  are  the  fruits  for  which  the  orchard-house  may 
be  said  to  have  been  specially  designed,  and  if  the  house 
be  small,  they  alone  should  occupy  it.  Large  houses  will, 
of  course,  give  room  for  the  pear  and  apple,  for  the  fig, 
orange,  etc. 

It  is  not   absolutely   necessary   that   the   varieties   be 


Fig.  147.— SPAN-ROOF   ORCnABD-HOUSE. 

worked  on  stocks  as  dwarfs,  but  when  such  can  be  had, 
the  peach  and  nectarine  on  the  plum,  and  the  cherry  on 
the  niahalebjwill  be  found  to  assist  toward  early  maturity, 
and  the  compressed  artificial  growth  which  the  restricted 
limits  of  this  mode  of  culture  command. 

TVees  in  Tubs  or  Pots. — The  first  orchard-house  grow- 
ing of  trees  was  in  pots,  but  we  have  found  in  practice 
that  boxes  of  about  fifteen  inches  diameter  at  top,  ten 
inches  at  bottom,  and  twenty  inches  deep,  with  the  bot- 
tom board  set  an  inch  or  more  above  the  side  pieces  (see 
fig.  149),  and  with  holes  for  drainage,  gave  us  better  stow- 
age when  we  desired  to  pack  away  the  trees  for  winter, 
and  were  also  less  liable  to  accident  and  injury,  which 
sometimes  occur  from  breaking  of  pots.  It  has  been 
asserted  that  the  porous  nature  of  the  pots  was  an  advan- 
tage, but  we  found  success  in  the  boxes,  as  do  hundreds  of 
13* 


298 


OBCHAKD    HOUSES. 


Others  who  for  years  grow  oleanders,  figs,  oranges,  etc., 
in  tubs.  One-year-old  trees  from  the  nursery  are  the  best 
witli  which  to  commence. 

Management. — The  young  tree  being  potted,  using  good, 
fresli  turf  loam  two  parts,  and  one  part  well-decomposed 
manure,  cut  it  back  to  about  one  foot,  and  if  there  are 
any  side  branches  grown,  cut  them  back  to  one  or  two 
buds.  The  first  season  the  tree  may  be  grown  in  the  open 
air,  the  pots  or  boxes  plunged  in  the  ground.     As  the 


Fig.    148.— SECTION   OF   MOVABLE   HOUSE   ON   IRON   SUPPORTS. 


young  shoots  grow,  the  side  branches  should  be  stopped 
wdien  they  have  made  a  foot  or  so  of  growth.  Watering 
must  be  attended  to  during  the  heat  of  summer,  but  as 
autumn  approaches  it  should  be  graduated,  in  order  to 
have  the  wood  ripen  off  finely. 

In  autumn,  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  well  ripened,  or  on 
approach  of  cold  weather,  the  trees  should  be  removed 
to  the  house,  the  boxes  plunged  in  soil,  and  the  whole 
covered  with  mats  or  straw.  If  the  house  is  not  ready, 
the  trees  may  be  stacked  on  their  sides  in  a  shed,  and  pro- 
tected by  having  straw  or  leaves  packed  in,  among,  around, 
and  over  them. 

We  have  found  this  practice  quite  successful  and  much 
superior  to  that  of  a  cellar. 


OKCHARD    HOUSES. 


299 


If  fire  heat  is  to  be  used,  it  should  be  started  sometime 
in  January,  and  the  temperature  by  day  kept  at  from  80° 
to  90%  sinking  at  night  to  from  40°  to  50°.  If  the  fruit 
is  to  be  obtained  by  means 
only  of  tlie  protection  and 
heat  of  the  glass,  tlien  the 
trees  should  remain  covered 
until  all  risk  of  severe  frosts 
has  passed.  As  the  season 
advances  the  heat  will,  of 
course,  be  increased.  Great  • 
care  should  be  given  to  the 
watering,  keeping  the  trees 
always  moist,  but  never  wet, 
and  also  to  ventilation.  The 
spring  or  winter  pruning  is 
best  done  just  as  the  trees 
come  into  bloom,  but  if  the 
summer  pinching  is  attend- 
ed to  there  will  be  little  or 
no  occasion  for  any  winter 
pruning. 

The  introduction  of  bees 
into  the  house  at  blooming 
time  will  assist  greatly  in  fer- 
tilization. In  their  absence 
the  tree  should  be  occasion- 
ally jarred  by  a  slight  blow 

from  the  hand.  As  the  period  of  ripening  approaches,  or 
as  soon  as  they  begin  to  show  color,  the  trees  sliould  be 
removed  to  a  warm,  sheltered  spot  in  the  02)en  air,  and 
the  boxes  plunged  in  the  ground.  During  the  season,  or 
until  the  tubs  are  removed  to  the  open  air,  for  ripening 
the  fruit,  they  should  be  lifted  and  turned  every  ten  day^J 
to  check  the  growth  of  outside  roots.  "Watering  \Ati\ 
liquid  manure  assists  in  giving  vigor  to  the  tree,  and  sl^e 


UliOWN    IN    BOX. 


300 


ORCHARD    HOUSES. 


to  the  fruit.  The  aphis  and  red  spider  are  best  kept  in 
check  by  fumigating  with  tobacco. 

Propagating  Houses. — Small  glass  houses  for  the  pur- 
pose of  propagating  rare  plants,  keeping  plants  in  -winter, 
or  starting  them  forward  in  the  spring,  may  be  built  very 
cheaply,  and,  attached  to  any  considerable  garden,  may  be 
made  both  profitable  and  pleasantly  useful. 

The  span-roof  house  costs  really  but  a  trifle  more  than 


r^Miiti 

i^iitifc] 

k '                          ' 

©  @ 

©   © 

Fig.    150. — SECTION   OF   PUOPAGATING-HOUSE. 

a  lean-to,  when  the  surfice  covered  is  estimated,  and  it  is 
so  much  more  ornamental,  so  much  easier  managed,  and 
the  opportunity  to  give  plants  the  position  and  light  re- 
quired, is  so  much  greater,  that  we  wonder  it  is  not  more 
generally  adopted. 

It  is  not  always  possible  to  select  a  location  in  just  the 
best  place,  but  when  this  can  be  done  the  ends  of  the 
house  should  be  north  and  south,  and  it  should  be  where 
perfect  drainage  may  be  had,  after  having  excavated  three 
feet  deep,  for  the  purpose  of  sinking  the  side  walls  be- 
lor7  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  thereby  reducing  the  ex- 
pense of  heating.  Twelve  feet  is  a  good  width,  while 
the  length  may  be  regulated  to  suit  the  proprietor's  wants. 


THE    FILBERT.  301 

Heating  with  hot  water  is  unquestionably  best,  but 
many  good  houses  are  now,  and  will  continue  to  be, 
warmed  by  means  of  brick  flues,  or,  what  is  perhaps 
better  and  cheaper,  by  sections  of  stone  pipe. 

A  series  of  connected  houses,  that  we  have  built,  are 
twelve  feet  wide  and  eighty  feet  long,  and  Ave  know  of 
nothing  better,  for  a  single  house,  than  one  of  these  by 
itself  (fig.  150).  In  this  the  sashes  are  fixed  permanently  to 
the  ridge-pole  and  plate,  and  ventilation  obtained  by  cutting 
away  the  sash-bars  at  top,  at  distances  of  ten  feet,  and 
forming  a  frame  to  be  hung  on  hinges.  Movable  sash- 
bars  or  frames  are  by  some  preferred,  and  where  there  is 
any  other  use  for  them  than  as  applied  to  the  house 
proper,  they  are  i)robably  best. 

Bottom  heat  is  obtained  when  the  house  is  heated  by 
flues  or  pipes,  by  simply  inclosing  the  space  along  one 
side,  below  the  bench,  with  boarding,  leaving  the  upper 
board  hung  on  hinges,  so  that  the  heat  may  be  let  into 
the  house  as  required. 

Tanks  of  hot  water  as  the  base  for  forming  bottom- 
heat  are  also  used,  and  when  great  care  is  practised  they 
are  of  the  best ;  but  there  is  a  liability  to  dampness  in 
houses  so  heated,  and  in  extreme  cold  weather  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  get  heat  in  the  main  part  of  the  house  without  too 
much  for  the  plants. 

Section  9. — Pruning  and  Training  the  Filbert. 

The  filbert  in  this  country  is  a  neglected  fruit.  It  is 
seldom  found  in  the  garden,  and  more  rarely  still  in  a  pro- 
lific, well-grown  condition.  Of  all  other  trees,  it  requires 
regular  and  proper  pruning  to  maintain  its  fruitfulncss. 
The  blossoms  are  mona'cious — that  is,  the  male  organs, 
which  are  in  long  catkins  (fig.  37),  are  produced  from  one 
bud,  and  the  female  flowers  from  another. 

The  blossom  or  fruit  buds  are  produced  on  shoots  of 


302  THE    FILBERT. 

one  year's  growth,  and  bear  fruit  the  next.  The  fruit  is 
borne  in  a  cluster  on  the  end  of  a  small  twig  produced 
from  the  bud  bearing  the  female  organs. 

It  is  said  that  in  the  neighborhood  of  Maidstone,  county 
of  Kent,  England,  the  filbert  orchards  occupy  several 
hundred  acres,  and  from  these  the  principal  supply  of 
the  London  market  is  obtained.  One  acre  has  been  known 
to  produce  £50  sterling,  or  $250  worth,  in  one  season. 
The  pruning  of  these  Kent  growers  is  supposed  to  bo 
most  perfect  of  its  kind,  especially  for  their  soil  and  cli- 
mate. It  is  described  as  follows  in  the  "  Transactions  of 
the  London  Horticultural  Society  :  " 

"  The  suckers  are  taken  from  the  parent  plant  generally 
in  the  autumn,  and  planted  in  nursery  beds  (being  first 
shortened  to  ten  or  twelve  inches),  where  they  remain 
three  or  four  years.  They  are  slightly  pruned  every  year, 
in  order  to  form  strong  lateral  shoots,  the  number  of 
which  varies  from  four  to  six.  But  though  it  is  the  usual 
practice  to  plant  the  suckers  in  inirsery  beds,  I  would  ad- 
vise every  one  to  plant  them  where  they  are  to  remain, 
whether  they  are  intended  for  a  garden  or  a  larger  planta- 
tion ;  and  after  being  suifered  to  grow  without  restraint 
for  three  or  four  years,  to  cut  them  down  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground.  From  the  remaining  part,  if  the 
trees  are  well  rooted  in  the  soil,  five  or  six  strong  shoots 
will  be  produced.  Whichever  method  is  practised,  the 
subsequent  treatment  of  the  trees  will  be  exactly  the 
same. 

'"  In  the  second  year  after  cutting  down,  these  shoots 
are  shortened  ;  generally  one  third  is  taken  ofi".  If  very 
weak,  I  would  advise  that  the  trees  be  cut  quite  down  a 
second  time,  as  in  the  previous  spring;  but  it  would  be 
mucli  better  not  to  cut  them  down  until  the  trees  give 
evident  tokens  of  their  being  able  to  produce  shoots 
of  suiHcient  strength.  When  they  are  thus  shortened, 
tlitit  they  may  appear  regular,  let  a  small  hoop  be  placed 


THE   FILBEKT.  303 

■within  the  branches,  to  which  the  shoots  are  to  be  fas* 
tened  at  equal  distances.  By  this  practice  two  consider- 
able advantages  will  be  gained — the  trees  will  grow  more 
regular,  and  the  middle  will  be  kept  hollow,  so  as  to  ad- 
mit the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air. 

"  In  the  third  year  a  shoot  will  spring  from  each  bud  ; 
these  must  be  suffered  to  grow  until  the  following  autumn, 
or  fourth  year,  when  they  are  to  be  cut  off"  nearly  close 
to  the  original  stem,  and  the  leading  shoot  of  the  last  year 
shortened  two-thirds. 

"  In  the  fifth  year  several  small  shoots  will  arise  from 
the  bases  of  the  side  branches  which  were  cut  off"  the  pre- 
ceding year.  These  are  produced  from  small  buds,  and 
would  not  have  been  emitted  had  not  the  branch  on  which 
they  arc  situated  been  shortened,  the  whole  nourishment 
being  carried  to  the  upper  part  of  the  branch.  It  is  from 
these  shoots  that  fruit  is  to  be  expected.  These  produc- 
tive shoots  Avill  in  a  few  years  become  very  numerous, 
and  many  of  them  must  be  taken  off",  particularly  the 
strongest,  in  order  to  encourage  the  production  of  the 
smaller  ones,  for  those  of  the  former  year  become  so  ex- 
hausted that  they  generally  decay ;  but  whether  decayed 
or  not,  they  are  always  cut  out  by  the  pruner,  and  a  fresh 
supply  must  therefore  be  provided  to  produce  the  fruit  in 
the  succeeding  year.  The  leading  shoot  is  every  year  to 
be  shortened  two-tliirds,  or  more  should  the  tree  be  weak, 
and  tlie  whole  hight  of  the  ])ranches  must  not  exceed 
six  feet. 

"  The  method  of  pruning  above  detailed  might,  in  a  few 
words,  be  called  a  method  of  spurring,  by  which  bearing 
shoots  are  produced,  which  otherwise  would  have  had  no 
existence.  Old  trees  are  easily  induced  to  bear  in  this 
manner,  by  selecting  a  sufficient  number  of  the  main 
branches,  and  then  cutting  the  side  shoots  off",  nearly  close, 
excepting  any  should  be  so  situated  as  not  to  interfere 
with  the  others,  and  there  should  be  no  main  branch  di- 


304  THE    FILBERT. 

reeled  to  that  particular  part.  It  will,  however,  he  two 
or  three  years  before  the  full  effect  will  be  produced.  By 
the  above  method  of  pruning,  thirty  hundred  per  acre 
have  been  grown  in  particular  grounds  and  in  particular 
years,  yet  twenty  hundred  is  considered  a  large  crop,  and 
rather  more  than  half  that  quantity  maybe  called  a  more 
usual  one ;  and  even  then  the  crop  totally  fails  three  years 
out  of  five ;  so  that  the  annual  average  quantity  cannot 
be  reckoned  at  more  than  five  hundred  per  acre. 

"  When  I  reflected  upon  the  reason  of  failure  happening 
so  often  as  tliree  years  out  of  five,  it  occurred  to  me  that 
possibly  it  might  arise  from  the  excessive  productiveness  of 
the  other  two.  In  order  to  insure  fruit  every  year,  I  have 
usually  left  a  large  proportion  of  those  shoots  which,  from 
their  strength,  I  suspected  would  not  be  so  productive  of 
blossom-buds  as  the  shorter  ones ;  leaving  them  more  in 
a  state  of  nature  than  is  usually  done,  not  pruning  them 
so  closely  as  to  weaken  the  trees  by  excessive  bearing, 
nor  leaving  them  so  entirely  to  their  natural  growth  as  to 
cause  their  annual  productiveness  to  be  destroyed  by  a 
superfluity  of  wood.  These  shoots,  in  the  spring  of  the 
year,  I  have  usually  shortened  to  a  blossom-bud." 

Such  is  the  management  of  these  celebrated  filbert 
growers,  their  principal  object  being  to  keep  the  trees 
small,  open  in  the  center,  and  covered  in  every  part  with 
fruit  spurs.  A  similar  system,  but  less  severe  in  the  cut- 
ting back,  may  be  pursued  here ;  some  such  course  of 
treatment  as  recommended  for  the  head  of  the  quince  as 
to  form  and  fruitfulness. 

Instead  of  relying  on  the  spring  pruning  to  subdue 
vigor  and  induce  fruitfulness,  pinching  should  be  practised 
during  the  summer ;  for  this  not  only  checks  the  produc- 
tion of  wood,  but  of  roots.  Root  pruning,  too,  may  be 
safely  practised  in  August,  when  pruning  and  pinching  of 
the  branches  prove  insufficient. 

In  all  cases,  suckers  must  be   completely  eradicated 


THE   FIG.  305 

evrry  season,  or  as  soon  as  they  make  their  appearance. 
The  want  of  pruning,  and  the  growth  of  suckers,  make 
the  filbert  in  nearly  all  our  gardens  completely  barren  ;  a 
rank  production  of  wood  only  is  obtained  year  after  year. 
We  find  that  grafting  the  finer  kinds  on  stocks  of  the 
common  filbert  raised  from  seed,  renders  the  trees  much 
more  prolific  naturally,  nnd  also  smaller  in  size.  We  have 
trees  here  now  bearing  only  three  years  from  the  graft ; 
tlie  stems  are  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  high,  and  they 
are  very  pretty.  Their  natural  vigor  is  greatly  subdued 
by  the  graft.  The  French  conduct  them  in  pyramids  with 
great  success,  on  the  same  principle  as  other  trees. 

Seotiox    10. — Culture,    Pruning,   and    Training    op 
THE  Fig. 

In  the  Northern  States  the  fig  is  cultivated  with  very- 
little  success  in  the  open  ground,  but  fine  crops  are  pro- 
duced in  the  vineries  recommended  for  foreign  grapes; 
and  it  is  in  these  only  that  its  culture  can  yield  any  con- 
siderable degree  of  satisfaction,  north  of  Maryland  at 
least. 

Propagation. — The  surest  and  best  mode  is  by  layers. 
A  large  branch  may  be  layered  in  the  spring,  and  will  be 
sufliciently  rooted  in  the  fall  to  be  planted  out.  Cuttings 
also  strike  freely,  and  make  good  plants  in  one  season. 
All  the  modes  of  propagation  recommended  for  the  quince, 
may  be  applied  to  the  fig.  Cuttings  are  generally  pre- 
ferred in  the  South, 

Soil. — It  succeeds  in  any  good,  rich,  warm  garden  soil, 
suitable  for  other  fruit  trees.  In  very  light  or  dry  soils 
the  fruits  fall  before  maturity,  as  they  require  at  that 
season  in  particular  a  large  amount  of  moisture;  but  it  is 
better  that  it  be  too  diy  than  too  moist,  for  in  the  latter 
case  nothing  but  soft  unripe  and  unfruitful  shoots  are  ob- 
tained, whilst  in  the  former,  moisture  can  be  supplied  at 


306  TDE   FIG. 

the  time  when  it  may  be  required.  The  wood  should  be 
short-jointed,  the  buds  not  more  than  one-fourth  an  inch 
apart.  In  England  dry  chalky  soils  produce  the  finest 
crops. 

Pruning. — The  fig  is  somewhat  peculiar  in  its  mode  of 
bearing,  No  blossoms  appear,  but  the  figs  are  produced 
on  the  stem,  appearing  at  first  like  buds.  The  young 
shoots  of  last  season  bear  fruit  the  next ;  and  the  shoots 
produced  during  first  growth  produce  fruit  the  same  season, 
and  this  is  called  the  "  second  crop."  These  never  ripen, 
and  should  never  be  encouraged  where  the  plants  require 
protection.  In  warm  climates,  as  in  some  of  our  South- 
ern States,  these  two  crops  ripen  perfectly,  though  the 
first  from  the  previous  season's  wood  is  larger  and  better. 

This  mode  i)f  bearing  shows  that  little  pruning  is  neces- 
sary, beyond  the  cutting  away  of  old  or  worn-out  branch- 
es, and  thinning  and  regulating  others.  Unfruitful  trees, 
in  a  moist  and  rich  ground,  should  be  pinched  in  summer 
to  check  their  growth,  and  concentrate  the  sap  more  in 
the  lateral  buds.  Root-pruning.,  too,  may  be  applied  as 
on  other  trees.  Mr.  Downing  recommends  this  in  his 
"  Fruits  and  Fruit  Trees." 

Training. — Wherever  the  trees  are  hardy  enough  to 
withstand  the  winter  without  protection,  as  in  the  South- 
ern States  or  California,  they  may  be  grown  in  the  form 
of  low  standards,  as  recommended  for  tlie  peach ;  but 
when  protection  is  required,  where  the  brandies  have  to 
be  laid  down  and  covered  during  winter,  they  must  be 
grown  in  stools  or  bushes,  with  a  dozen  or  more  stems 
rising  from  the  socket.  These  are  easily  laid  doAvn  and 
covered,  and  easily  brought  up  to  their  places  again,  in 
the  way  that  raspbeny  canes  are  managed.  To  produce 
this  form,  the  young  tree  is  planted  in  the  bottom  of  a 
trench  about  a  third  deeper  than  in  ordinary  cases,  and  a 
basin  is  left  around  it.  At  the  end  of  the  first  season's 
growth,  it  is  cut  back  to  a  few  inches  of  the  base ;  there 


THE   GOOSEBEKKY.  307 

a  number  of  shoots  are  producetl.  As  these  grow  up  the 
earth  is  drawn  in  around  them,  to  favor  the  production 
of  other  shoots  at  their  base ;  and  in  this  way  it  is  man- 
aged until  the  requisite  number  of  branches  is  obtained. 

J*rotection. — Trained  in  this  way,  a  trench  is  opened 
for  each  branch,  or  three  or  four  may  be  put  in  one  trench, 
if  convenient ;  they  are  fastened  down  with  hooked  pegs 
as  in  layering,  and  covered  with  a  foot  of  earth,  which 
should  be  drawn  up  in  the  mound  form,  to  throw  off  the 
water. 

The  fig  is  sometimes  grown,  at  the  North,  in  large  pots 
or  tubs,  and  stored  in  a  cool  cellar  or  pit  during  winter. 

Bipening  the  Fruit. — In  fig-growing  countries,  and  to 
some  extent  here,  there  is  a  practice  of  applying  a  drop 
of  olive  oil  to  the  eye  of  the  fruit,  to  hasten  its  maturity. 
This  is  usually  done  by  means  of  a  straw. 

Training  in  Graperies. — The  back  wall  of  a  lean-to 
cold  vinery  is  an  excellent  place  for  the  fig.  It  may  be 
trained  on  a  trellis  in  a  fan  or  horizontal  manner,  but 
severe  pruning  must  not  be  practised  to  produce  regu- 
larity. 

Section  11. — ^Pkuning  the  Goosebeery. 

The  gooseberry  produces  fruit  buds  and  spurs  on  wood 
two  years  old  and  upwards.  Fig.  151  represents  the  two- 
year-old  wood,  A.,  with  fruit  buds  (7,  C,  and  -S,  the  one-year- 
old  wood  with  wood  buds,  D,  D.  Of  these  wood  buds, 
the  upper  one  next  season  would  produce  a  shoot,  and  the 
lower  ones  would  probably  be  transformed  into  fruit  buds. 
At  the  base  of  one  of  the  fruit  buds,  (7,  may  be  seen  a 
small  wood  bud,  d ;  this  during  next  season  will  produce 
a  small  shoot  or  spur.  The  great  point  to  aim  at  in  this 
country  must  always  be  to  maintain  a  vigorous  condi- 
tion ;  the  moment  the  plant  becomes  feeble  or  stinted,  the 
fruit  is  so  attacked  with  mildew  or  rust  as  to  be  utterly 


308 


THE   GOOSEBEBET. 


worthless.  Hence  it  is  that  young  plants  usually  bear  ex- 
cellent crops  for  the  first  or  second  year,  while  after  that  the 
mildew  is  in  some  varieties  and  situations 
unconquerable. 

The  bush  should  have  a  stem  of  three  or 
four  inches  in  hight,  and  a  head  composed 
of  five  or  six  main  branches  placed  at  equal 
distances  and  inclined  outwards,  to  prevent 
denseness  and  confusion  in  the  center.  These 
main  branches  should  be  furnished  with 
bearing  wood  in  all  their  length.  The  pro- 
duction of  such  a  bush  may  be  accomplished 
by  the  following  means  : 

Supposing  the  young  plant  as  it  comes 
A  from  the  nursery  to  be  either  a  two-year-old 
cutting,  or  a  one-year  bedded  layer ;  in 
either  case  it  will  have  a  stem  of  two  or 
three  inches  at  least,  and  a  few  branches  at 
the  top.  Before  planting,  all  the  buds  on 
the  part  of  the  stem  to  be  below  the  ground 
are  cut  out,  to  prevent  them  from  producing 
suckers.  Among  the  branches,  three  of  those 
most  favorably  situated,  are  selected  for  the 
formation  of  the  head,  and  the  others  are 
cut  out  entirely.     The  reserved  branches  are 

year  -  old  ^^^^    ^^^   y^^^^    ^^    ^^^^^  ^j.   ^J^j-gg   l^^^g  .     fj-Q^j^ 
wood ;     5,     one  ,  ' 

year;  c,  c,  fruit-  these  One  slioot  is  taken  on  each  branch,  and 
hud^;/).  Avvood-  ^hg  others  are  pinched  to  favor  this.    By  this 

buds;   d,  a  small  ,     ,,    i  ,  ,  . 

wood-bud  at  the  method  we  shall  have  three  stout  shoots  in 
base    of    fruit  -  tjjg  fa]].     If  the  plant  had  been  well  rooted, 

bud  C.  .  -,„■,.  ,  1  ■, 

mstead  of  being  newly  transplanted,  we 
might  have  taken  two  shoots  instead  of  one  from  each 
shortened  branch.  These  three  branches  are  cut  back  at 
the  next  pruning  to  three  or  four  buds,  and  from  each 
two  new  shoots  are  taken,  giving  at  the  end  of  that  sea- 
son six  gtout  young  shoots,  situated  at  equal  distances. 


Fig.  151. 

Branch  of  the 
gooseberry.  A, 
two 


THE   GOOSEBERET.  309 

At  the  next  or  third  pruning  these  branches  are  cut  back 
about  one-half,  in  order  to  produce  lateral  branches  and 
fruit  spurs.  At  the  fourth  pruning,  the  leading  shoot  is 
shortened  one-third  to  one-half.  Any  lateral  branches  not 
required  to  fill  up  spaces,  or  such  as  are  improperly 
placed,  are  cut  back  to  three  or  four  buds,  so  as  to 
convert  them  into  fruit-branches. 

In  this  way  the  pruning  is  conducted  from  year  to  year. 
When  the  plants  become  feeble  from  overbearing,  the 
fruit  branches  may  be  headed  down  and  replaced  by  new 
vigorous  shoots.  The  better  way,  however,  to  provide 
for  this  difficulty,  is  to  raise  young  plants  from  layers  or 
cuttings,  to  be  at  once  substituted  for  such  as  fall  a  victim 
to  the  mildew.  A  northern  aspect,  a  cool,  damp,  substan- 
tial soil,  and  abundance  of  manure,  are  all  necessary,  in 
connection  with  the  pruning  described,  to  produce  fine 
gooseberries. 

The  famous  growers  of  Lancashire,  England,  outdo  all 
the  world  besides  in  the  production  of  large  gooseberries. 
The  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening  says :  "  To  efiect  this 
increased  size,  every  stimulant  is  applied  that  their  inge- 
nuity can  suggest ;  they  not  only  annually  manure  the 
soil  richly,  but  also  surround  the  plants  with  trenches  of 
manure  for  the  extremities  of  the  roots  to  strike  into,  and 
form  round  the  stem  of  each  plant  a  basin,  to  be  mulched, 
or  manured,  or  watered,  as  may  become  necessary.  When 
a  root  has  extended  too  far  fi-om  the  stem  it  is  uncovered, 
and  all  the  strongest  leaders  are  shortened  back  nearly 
one-half  of  their  length,  and  covered  with  fresh  marly 
loam,  well  manured.  The  efiect  of  this  pruning  is  to  in- 
crease the  number  of  fibres  and  spongioles,  which  form 
rapidly  on  the  shortened  roots,  and  strike  out  in  all  direc- 
tions among  the  fresh,  newly  stirred  loam,  in  search  of 
nutriment." 

They  also  practise  what  they  term  suckling  their  prize 
fruit.     By  preparing   a  very  rich  soil,  and  by  watering, 


310  THE   CUREANT. 

and  the  use  of  liquid  manure,  shading  and  thinning,  the 
large  fruit  of  the  prize  cultivator  is  produced.  Not  con- 
tent with  watering  at  root,  and  over  the  top,  the  Lanca- 
shire connoisseur,  when  he  is  growing  for  exhibition,  places 
a  small  saucer  of  water  immediately  under  each  goose- 
berry, only  three  or  four  of  which  he  leaves  on  a  tree ; 
this  he  technically  calls  suckling.  He  also  pinches  off  a 
great  part  of  the  young  wood,  so  as  to  throw  all  the 
strength  he  can  into  the  fruit. 

Section  12. — Pruning  and  Management  of  the 
Currant. 

The  red  and  white  currants  bear,  like  the  gooseberry,  on 
wood  not  less  than  two  years  old,  and  therefore  the  same 
system  of  pruning  may  be  applied  to  them.  The  most 
convenient  and  easily-managed  form  in  which  they  can 
be  grown,  is  that  of  a  bush  or  small  tree,  with  a  stem  of 
three  to  six  inches  high,  and  a  head  composed  of  a  certain 
number,  say  six  or  eight  principal  branches,  situated  at 
equal  distances,  and  not  nearer  to  one  another  at  the  ex- 
tremities than  six  or  eight  inches. 

These  branches  are  produced  by  cutting  back  the  young 
shoots  found  on  the  nursery  plant,  as  recommended  for 
the  gooseberry.  They  are  afterwards  annually  shortened 
to  produce  lateral  branches,  when  wanted,  and  fruit  spurs. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  prune  too  close,  as  this  causes 
the  buds  on  the  lower  parts  to  make  wood  instead  of  fruit 
spurs :  one  third,  and  in  many  cases  one  fourth,  will  be 
quite  sufficient. 

Tlie  Currant  as  a  Pyramid. — The  currant  is  very  easily 
formed  into  pretty  pyramids.  The  mode  of  conducting 
them  will  be  similar  to  that  recommended  for  other  trees. 

A  good  strong  shoot  must  first  be  obtained  to  com- 
mence upon ;  this  is  cut  back,  and  laterals  produced  as 
though  it  were  a  yearling  cherry-tree.     Summer  pruning 


THE   CtTERANT.  311 

and  pinching  must  be  duly  put  in  practice,  under  any 
form,  to  keep  up  an  equality  of  growth  among  the  shoots, 
and  to  check  misplaced  and  superfluous  ones.  This  will 
obviate  a  great  deal  of  cutting  at  the  Avinter  or  spring 
pruning.  Mr.  Rivers,  in  his  "  Miniature  Fruit  Garden,'* 
says:  "A  near  neighbor  of  mine,  an  ingenious  gardener, 
attaches  much  value,  and  with  reason,  to  his  pyramidal 
currant  trees ;  for  his  table  is  supplied  abundantly  Avith 
their  fruit  till  late  in  autumn.  The  leading  shoots  of  his 
trees  are  fastened  to  iron  rods  ;  they  form  nice  pyramids 
about  five  feet  high ;  and  by  the  clever  contrivance  of 
slipping  a  bag  made  of  coarse  muslin  over  them  as  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  rijie,  fastening  it  securely  at  the  bottom, 
wasps,  birds,  flies,  and  all  tlie  ills  that  beset  ripe  currants 
are  excluded." 

The  Currant  as  an  Espalier. — It  is  sometimes  desirable, 
both  to  economize  space  and  to  retard  the  period  of  rii)en- 
ing,  to  train  currants  on  a  north  wall  or  trellis  ;  and  this 
is  very  easily  done  with  success.  We  have  seen  the  north 
side  of  a  neighbor's  garden  fence  completely  covered  with 
currants  without  any  system  whatever  being  pursued  in 
laying  in  the  branches.  The  plants  were  about  five  feet 
apart,  and  the  branches  were  fastened  to  the  wall  in  a  sort 
of  fan  form.  The  proper  way  to  treat  the  currant  as  an 
espalier  is,  to  produce  two  strong  branches  on  a  stem  six 
to  twelve  inches  high.  These  branches  are  trained  out  in 
a  horizontal  manner  like  two  arms — one  on  each  side ;  and 
from  the  shoots  which  they  will  produce,  as  many  as  are 
to  be  had  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  one  another 
fire  trained  in  an  upright  position,  as  in  the  grape  vine 
(fig.  137). 

These  upright  shoots  are  managed  in  the  same  way  as 
the  branches  of  a  bush  ;  they  are  annually  shortened  back 
a  little  to  insure  a  good  supply  of  fruit  buds. 

The  Black  Currant  produces  its  best  fruit  on  the  wood 
of  the  preceding  year,  therein  differing  from  the  others. 


312  THE   RASPBERRY. 

In  pruning  it,  the  young  wood  must  "be  preserved,  anfl 
branches  that  have  borne  must  be  cut  back  to  produce  a 
succession  of  new  bearing  wood,  as  in  the  filbert. 

Manuring. — No  other  fruit  tree  is  so  patient  under  bad 
treatment  as  the  currant,  and  yet  none  yields  a  more 
prompt  or  abundant  reward  for  kindness.  In  addition  to 
the  annual  pruning  described,  the  bushes  should  receive  a 
dressing  of  old,  well-prepared  manure,  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  spread  all  around  as  far  as  the  roots  go,  and  forked 
lightly  in.  It  is  a  great  feeder,  and,  without  these  annual 
dressings,  the  soil  becomes  so  poor  that  the  fruit  is  really 
not  worth  gathering. 

Planting,  Pruning,  and  Training  the  Raspberry. 

Planting. — The  raspberry  succeeds  well  in  all  good 
garden  soils  in  the  Northern  States,  but  the  foreign  varie- 
ties {Ruhus  Id(jeus)  do  not  succeed  at  the  South  or  South- 
west. The  most  advantageous  and  economical  position 
for  a  raspberry  bed  in  the  garden  is  generally  in  the  wall 
border,  facing  north.  In  this  situation  the  fruit  ripens 
sufficiently,  and  the  canes  are  not  so  liable  to  suffer  from 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing  in  tlie  winter.  The  young 
canes  or  suckers  are  shortened  full  one  half,  and  planted 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  feet.  Any  flowers  that 
make  their  appearance  on  them  the  first  season  should  be 
removed,  in  order  to  turn  all  the  sap  to  the  benefit  of  the 
leaves  and  new  roots,  and  tlie  production  of  a  young  cane 
for  the  next  season. 

Pruning. — The  stem  is  biennial — that  is,  the  canes  are 
produced  one  season  and  bear  fruit  the  next,  and  then  die. 
For  example,  in  fig.  152,  A  is  the  old  cane  that  has  borne, 
and  is  of  no  further  use.  P  is  the  young  cane  produced 
at  its  base  last  season.  The  fruit  buds  produce  small 
shoots,  a,  a,  a,  that  bear  the  fruit.  The  pruning  is  very 
simple  J  it  consists  merely  in  cutting  away  early  iu  the 


THE   EASPBERRT. 


313 


spring  the  old  cane  tliat  has  borne.  Some  people  do  this 
as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  gathered,  on  the  ground  that  tlie 
young  cane  is  strengthened  by  so  doing  ;  but  this  is  ques- 
tionable. It  may  be,  on  tlie  whole,  safer  to  leave  it  to 
finish  its  natural  course,  and  cut  it  away  at  the  spring  or 
winter  pruning. 

Tlie  young  cane  is  shortened  to  three  feet,  or  three  and 
a  half  or  four,  if  it  be  quite  stout  and  vigorous.  When 
the  plants  have  been  a  year  or  two 
in  their  place,  several  canes  will  be 
produced  from  one  stool  in  the  same 
season;  but  three  or  four  only  are 
reserved,  and  these  the  strongest. 
Each  one  is  pruned  or  shortened  as 
above  in  order  to  concentrate  the 
sap  on  the  bearing  buds  on  the 
center  and  lower  parts.  This  not 
only  increases  the  size,  but  im- 
proves the  quality  of  the  fruit. 
Wiien  the  suckers  become  very  nu- 
merous, they  enfeeble  the  plant, 
and  it  soon  becomes  worthless.  AH 
the  weaker  sujierfluous  ones  should 
be  carefully  removed  wnth  a  trowel 
early  in  the  season,  say  when  they 
have  attained  five  or  six  inches  of 
growth.  In  selecting  such  as  are  to  be  reserved,  prefer- 
ence should  be  given  to  those  being  nearest  in  the  regu- 
lar row  of  plants.  Some  of  the  French  authors  recom- 
mend leaving  a  hole  ten  or  twelve  inches  deep  around 
each  plant  at  the  time  of  planting,  to  be  filled  up  gradu- 
ally, three  or  four  inches  a  year,  with  fresh  earth,  to  pro- 
mote the  formation  of  vigorous  radical  buds,  at  the  collar 
of  the  root,  as  recommended  for  the  fig. 

Summer  Pruning. — The  foregoing  is  designed  for  the 
annual  or  winter  pruning,  but  if  summer  pruning  is  prac- 
14 


The  Raspberry.  A,  the 
old  cane  that  has  borne 
and  will  be  cut  away  ;  B, 
the  young  cane  for  next 
season,  to  be  shortened  at 
cross  line  b ;  C,  radical 
bud,  to  prc<?tuce  a  cane 
next  season. 


S14  THE  RA.SPBER11T. 

tised  all  that  will  be  needed  in  the  autumn  is  to  cut  away 
the  canes  that  have  borne  fruit. 

In  summer  pruning,  as  soon  as  the  young  shoots  have 
grown  to  a  hight  of  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet,  thev 
should  have  the  ends  pinched  in.  This  will  soon  cause  them 
to  produce  laterals  or  side  branches,  and  these  again,  as^ 
soon  as  they  have  made  a  growth  of  one  foot,  sliould  bo 
pin(;hed  back,  and  at  the  same  time  the  shoot  from  the 
top  bud  of  the  c:me  should  be  shortened.  This  cause* 
the  plants  to  become  stocky  and  self-supporting. 

Manuring. — A  liberal  dressing  of  well-decomposed  ma- 
nure should  be  given  them  every  fall,  worked  carefully 
in  among  the  roots  with  the  digging  fork.  With  this 
treatment  a  bed  will  continue  productive  for  seven  years 
at  least. 

Training. — M.  Dubreuil  describes  a  very  pretty  and 
simple  method  of  training  practised  in  France,  and  I  had 


Fig.   153.— FRENCH  MODE  OF   TRAmiNG  THE  RASPBERRY  TO  STAKES 
AND   ROPES. 

the  pleasure  of  seeing  it  carried  into  practice  in  the  Rouen 
Garden  (fig.  153).    ^ 

Tlie  railing  B  is  a  narrow  strip  of  board,  or  a  small 
pole,  supported  on  upright  stakes;  it  is  eighteen  inches 
from  the  row  of  plants,  and  three  feet  from  the  ground. 
When  the  young  bearing  canes  are  pruned  in  the  spring, 
they  are  bent  over  and  fastened  to  this  rail ;  and  thus  the 
young  suckers  grow  up  without  mixing  with  the  fruit 
branches;  consequently  the  fruit  ripens  better  and  is 
more   easily  gathered.     During  the  summer,   when   the 


THE    RASPBERRY. 


315 


young  suckers  destined  to  bear  the  year  following  have 
reached  the  hight  of  two  feet,  they  are  fastened  to  a 
similar  rail  on  tlie  other  side  of  the  row,  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  line  of  the  ground. 

The  following  is  an  English  mode  of  training  described 
in  the  "  London  Gardeners'  Chronicle."  In  fig.  154,  the 
uprights  between  every  two  or  three  plants  are  iron,  and 


Fig.    154. — ENGLISH  MODE  OF  TRAINING  THE  RASPBERRY. 

the  horizontal  lines  to  which  the  canes  are  attached,  are 
tarred  rope. 

In  fig.  155,  the  plants  are  supposed  to  be  placed  in 
rows  four  feet  apart,  and  about  the  same  distance  from 
one  another  in  the  row.  The  number  of  shoots  on  each 
is  regulated  during  the  growing  season,  no  more  being 


Yig.    155. — ENGLISH   MODE   OF   TRAINING  THE   RASPBERRY  TO   STAKES. 

allowed  to  remain  than  the  plant  is  capable  of  support- 
ing. In  most  cases  six  or  eight  shoots  will  be  sufiicient. 
Where  this  method  is  practised,  a  row  of  raspberries  in 
autumn  will  have  something  of  the  appearance  repre- 
sented in  fig.  155  ;  the  arched  portion,  tied  to  the  stake 


316  THE    KASPBERRT. 

in  the  center,  being  the  canes  which  bore  fruit  last  year, 
and  which  must  be  cut  down  to  the  bottom,  and  be  re- 
placed by  the  upright  shoots  of  last  summer. 

In  this  last  arrangement,  five  or  six  fruit-bearing  canes 
are  tied  together  to  one  stake,  and  it  is  impossible  that 
the  fruit  can  either  ripen  well  or  be  gathered  easily.  The 
two  first  are  good  and  simple  plans. 

Where  summer  pruning  is  practised  no  training  will  be 
needed,  but  in  absence  of  that  operation  being  performed 
we  have  practised  driving  strikes  at  distances  of  twelve  feet 
or  so  along  the  row,  and  then  simply  securing  a  cord  at  one 
end  of  the  row,  pass  it  along  one  side,  just  under  the  side 
branches,  giving  a  tie  around  each  stake,  and  the  same 
on  the  opposite  side,  thus  securing  the  canes  from  falling 
to  the  ground,  and  yet  leaving  them  free  and  open  to  air 
and  sunshine.  After  fruiting  the  cord  can  be  taken  off 
and  laid  away  for  another  year. 

Protection  hi  Winter. — All  the  foreign,  or,  as  commonly 
termed,  Antwerp  varieties,  require  winter  protection  in 
the  northern  sections  of  the  States,  and,  indeed,  they  are 


Fig.    156. — COVEKING   RASPBEKRIES    WITH   THE   SPADE. 

the  better,  wherever  grown,  for  a  slight  protection  during 
the  winter  months. 

In  garden  culture  the  canes  are  bent  down  and  earth 
covered  over  them  with  a  spade  to  the  depth  of  two  to 
three  inches  (fig,  156),  the  dotted  lines  being  the  top  of 
the  covering  of  earth. 

In  the  field  or  large  plantations,  a  plow  is  run  along  by 
the  side  of  the  row,  and  a  shallow  furrow  opened  (a,  fig, 
157)  ;  then  a  man  or  boy  follows,  and,  bending  the 
canes  down  into  it  (6),  secures  them  in  place  by  draw- 


THE    BLACKBERRY.  317 

ing  over  them  a  little  earth,  either  with  the  hand  or  foot ; 
the  plow  then  returns,  throwing  the  furrow  over  and 
upon  the  plants  a  depth  of  one  to  four  inches  (see  dot- 
ted lines  in  fig.  J 57).  Another  way  of  covering  is  to 
first  lay  down  the  canes  along  the  line  of  low,  secur- 
ing by  a  little  dirt  on  their  ends,  and  then  turn  a  fur- 
row   with  the  plow  towards   them  on  each  side.     This 


Fig.    157.— COVERING   KASPBEUKIE3   WITH    THE   PLOW. 

makes  the  center  between  each  row  to  act  as  a  drain  for 
surface  water.  The  canes  should  be  left  until  the  buds 
begin  to  swell  in  the  spring,  as,  if  taken  out  too  early,  they 
are  liable  to  be  killed  by  frosts.  In  localities  where  snow 
usually  covers  the  ground  during  winter,  merely  laying 
the  canes  upon  the  ground  and  covering  the  ends  with  a 
little  earth  is  sufiicient. 


Planting,   Pruning,  and  Training  the   Blackberry. 

The  blackberry  requires  a  deep  moist  soil,  not  wet,  but 
it  is  not  particular  whether  clay  or  sand.  The  canes  are 
planted  at  distances  of  six  to  eight  feet  apart,  according 
to  the  strength  of  the  soil.  Cover  the  crown  of  the  root 
not  more  than  two  inches  deep,  same  as  with  the  raspberry. 

Prune  the  cane  at  planting  the  same  as  the  raspberry, 
and  pursue  the  same  system  of  summer  pruning  or  pinch- 
ing, only  leaving  the  main  stems  from  four  to  six  feet 
long,  and  the  side  branches  fourteen  to  eighteen  inches. 
Tying  the  blackberry  canes  to  wires  or  stakes  is  an  un- 
pleasant labor,  and  we  have  found  that  stout  stakes  along 
the  rows  at  distances  of  sixteen  to  twenty  feet,  with  a  No. 
12  wire  stretched  along  each  side  at  three  to  four  feet 


318  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

from  the  ground,  according  to  the  hight  of  the  plants,  a 
good  support  and  economical  in  labor-saving.  Tlie  wire, 
at  time  of  pruning  away  the  old  bearing  canes,  may  be 
removed  from  one  side,  and  again  replaced  after  the  prun- 
ing is  done.  Covering  the  blackberry  for  winter  protec- 
tion is  the  same  as  that  of  the  raspberry.  ' 

Culture  and  Management  of  the  Strawberry.      ( 

The  strawberry  is  not  difficult  to  suit  in  regard  to  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  for  every  year  we  see  abundant  crops 
gathered  from  a  variety  of  soils,  differing  widely  in  char- 
acter, from  a  light  sand  to  a  heavy  clay. 

The  best  soil  is  a  deep,  strong,  sandy  loam,  but  any  soil 
suited  to  the  growth  of  ordinary  field  or  garden  crops 
may  be  trusted  for  successfully  growing  the  strawberry. 
This  should  be  broken  up  and  pulverized  by  spade  trench- 
ing (page  72)  or  subsoil  plowing  (page  71),  and  enriched 
by  the  admixture  of-  good  stable  manure  to  the  depth  of 
full  two  feet.  The  quantity  of  manure  will,  of  course,  be 
regulated  by  the  condition  of  the  soil.  New  soils  of 
good  quality,  unexhausted  by  cultivation,  will  require 
very  little,  just  enough  to  quicken  those  chemical  changes 
which  it  is  necessary  the  elements  of  fertility  should  un- 
dergo to  convert  them  into  a  nutritive  state.  In  old, 
pretty  well-worn  soils  a  coating  of  three,  four,  or  even 
six  inches  of  manure  should  l)e  spread  on  the  surface  be- 
fore the  trenching  or  plowing  begins,  and  be  regularly 
incorporated  with  the  soil  during  the  operation.  If  this 
trenching  or  plowing  can  be  done  in  the  autumn,  all  the 
better,  and  the  soil  should  be  left  as  rough  as  possible,  so 
that  the  frost  will  act  upon  it  efficiently  during  the  win- 
ter. Then  before  the .  plants  are  set  in  the  spring,  the 
ground  siiould  be  turned  over  once  more  so  as  to  loosen 
it  and  incorporate  the  various  parts  thoroughly  with  one 
another.     The  beneficial  effects  of  manure  depend  much, 


THE   STEAWBERRY.  319 

in  tliis  as  in  all  cases,  upon  its  even  distribution  in  the 
soil.  Some  old  gardens  become  infested  with  grubs  which 
live  upon  the  roots  of  plants  and  often  cut  off  all  crops. 
In  such  cases,  a  dressing  of  soot,  or  fresh  lime,  or  salt,  at 
the  time  of  trenching  or  plowing,  will  have  a  good  effect. 

It  is  ahnost  unnecessary  to  say  that  all  soils  of  a  wet 
nature,  whether  arising  from  springs  or  from  being  so  tena- 
cious as  to  hold  rain  a  long  time,  should  be  drained 
(page  73). 

Attention  to  the  subject  of  draining  cannot  be  too 
strongly  urged  upon  all  cultivator's,  and  especially  cultiva 
tors  of  fruit,  and  the  strawberry  grower  should  constantly 
remembei-  that  the  certainty,  excellence,  and  profusion  of 
the  crop  depend  mainly  upon  the  richness^  depth^  and 
thorough  drainage  of  the  soil. 

Transplanting. — Next  to  the  preparation  of  the  soil  an 
important  item  is,  WiCH  to  plant.  All  seasons,  in  the  liands 
of  skilful  persons,  and  with  care  in  shading,  etc.,  are  suc- 
cessful, but  the  months  of  April  and  May  in  the  spring, 
September  and  October  in  the  fall,  throughout  the  North- 
ern States,  January,  February,  and  March  in  the  South, 
are  periods  when  the  least  care  is  required  to  insure  the 
greatest  success. 

Fall  planting  at  the  North  involves  necessity  of  winter 
protection,  whicli  it  is  requisite  to  give  in  such  a  manner, 
and  with  such  material,  that  the  plants  may  be  prevented 
from  being  thrown  out  by  the  frost,  and  at  the  same  time 
not  smothered  by  the  mulch  of  leaves,  straw,  etc.,  being 
too  thick  and  heavy  on  their  crowns.  Early  fall  planting 
almost  always  insures  new  roots,  as  the  soil  is  warm  and 
the  roots  form  rapidly  ;  it  is  also  a  season  when  the  ground 
Avorks  finely  and  the  demand  for  labor  on  other  crops  is 
reduced.  For  large  plantations,  we,  however,  prefer  the 
spring,  just  about  tlie  time  when  the  ground  is  dry  and 
warm,  and  the  ])lants  are  beginning  to  grow.  One  plant 
in  a  thousand  need  not  be  lost  at  this  time,  if  the  ground 


320  THE    STRAWBERRY, 

has  been  properly  prepared,  the  plants  in  good  order,  and 
the  work  done  reasonably  well. 

The  ground  being  properly  prepared  and  made  smooth 
with  a  harrow,  the  planting  should  be  in  straight  roAvs, 
using  a  line,  and  may  be  done  with  a  dibble,  or  by  fur- 
rownig  the  line  liglitly  with  a  shovel,  or  double  mould- 
board  plow,  and  then  draw  ing  the  earth  hi  around  the 
plant,  as  it  is  placed,  witli  the  hands.  This  gives  oppor- 
tunity for  a  better  spreading  of  the  roots,  and  in  practice 
has  been  found  even  more  rapid  than  dibbling. 

In  extensive  field  culture  the  system  of  rows  is  the 
most  advantageous,  and  they  should  be  three  and  a  half 
to  four  feet  apart,  with  plants  one  foot  apart  in  the  row, 
to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  horse-hoe  or  cultivator 
between  them. 

The  arrangement  of  plants  in  beds  is  a  matter  upon  which 
cultivators  differ  in  opinion  and  practice.     That  which  we 

regard  as  ofiering  the 
greatest  convenience  in 
a  garden  plantation  is 
to  divide  the  ground 
into  beds  of  four  feet 
wide,  each  of  which  may 

Fig.    158.— DIAGRAM    OF     STKAWBERRY-      COUtaiu      thrCC      TOWS      of 

BED.  plants,  the  two  outside 

rows  six    inches  from  the  edge  of  the  beils    (fig.    158). 

The  plants  may  stand  twelve  inclies  apart  in  the  rows, 
or  in  the  case  of  very  strong  growing  sorts,  such  as  Trol- 
lope's  Victoria  and  some  other  English  varieties,  eighteen 
inches  apart.  Thus  a  bed  twenty  feet  long  and  four  feet 
wide  will  contain  forty  to  sixty  plants. 

If  the  plantation  contains  several  of  these  beds  they 
should  be  separated  by  Avalks  or  alleys  of  two  feet  in 
width. 

These  walks  would  enable  the  gardener  to  perform  all 
the  labor  the  plants  Mould  req^uire,  and  gather  the   fruit 


THE    STRAWBERRY.  321 

without  stepping  on  the  beds,  whicli  is  a  consideration  of 
some   importance.     Next  to  this   arrangement   I   would 
}ecommend  rows  two  feet  apart,  with  the  plants  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows  (fig.  159).     In  this 
case  the    space    between    •»/))•     -•••••     •is/n* 

t)ie  rows  must  be  used  as   ;g  ;^ 

a  path  in  gathering  the  •,,,,  »•«•« 
fruit  and  performing  the   ^  i^ 

details  of  culture,  "   . 

Small  garden-beds  may         ^.^  159.-biagram  of  field- 
be  made  at  any  time  when  planting. 

the  ground  is  not  frozen.  The  ground  should  be  raked  ofi* 
smooth  and  even,  and  the  beds  or  plots  and  intervening 
walks  marked  by  the  line  and  a  measure.  When  this  is 
done,  then  stretch  the  line  where  it  is  intended  to  put  a 
row  of  plants,  mark  off  the  place  for  each  plant  by  a 
measure,  and  then  with  a  dibble,  such  as  that  described  on 
page  147,  set  the  plants,  pressing  the  earth  firmly  around 
each  with  the  hand.  When  the  rows  are  close  the  plants 
should  be  put  in  quincunx  order.  This  increases  the 
space  around  each  plant. 

In  a  dry  time  the  plants  should  be  well  watered  before 
they  are  taken  up,  and  the  ground  well  watered  before 
they  are  planted ;  then  they  must  be  protected  from  the 
hot  mid-day  sun  until  they  have  taken  root. 

In  planting  spread  out  the  roots  and  cover  them  with 
soil,  but  avoid  covering  the  crown  with  earth. 

The  plants  should  invariably  be  of  one  season's  growth, 
from  the  seed  or  runner,  and  well  rooted.  Where  only  a 
few  plants  are  needed,  those  nearest  the  parent  plant 
should  be  selected,  as  they  possess  a  greater  degree  of  vigor. 

They  should  always  be  taken  up  in  a  moist  time  if  pos- 
sible, and  before  planting  the  roots  should  be  dressed  by 
cutting  off  the  extremities,  and  the  older,  imperfect,  or 
bruised  foliage  should  also  be  pruned  off;  these  operations 
facilitate  the  process  of  re-rooting.  We  find  it  very 
14* 


322  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

good  to  dip  the  roots,  after  being  dressed,  in  mud  made 
of  loamy  soil  and  old  manure  well  mixed  with  water, 
about  as  thick  as  common  paint. 

In  compact  soil  a  little  sand  about  each  plant,  thrown 
into  the  bottom  of  the  hole  made  by  the  dibble,  will 
hasten  the  growth  of  young  roots  materially.  No  fresh 
manure  should  be  used  in  any  case  whatever. 

It  is  essential  in  the  culture,  in  order  to  produce  good 
crops,  that  the  runners  or  new  forming  plants  be  kept 
from  growing  just  the  same  as  if  they  were  weeds.  Early 
in  the  spring,  if  the  plants  have  been  mulched,  they 
should  be  gone  over  with  a  rake,  and  the  mulch  all  re- 
moved from  the  crown  or  center,  and  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  in  condition  to  work,  all  between  the  rows  and 
among  the  plants  should  be  spaded  or  plowed  as  deeply 
as  possible.  All  weeds  should  be  kept  down,  and  just 
before  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen  a  layer  of  straw  or 
fresh-mown  grass  should  be  placed  along  just  under  the 
foliage  and  around  the  plants,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  fruit  clean. 

After  the  crop  has  matured,  if  plants  are  wanted,  the 
ground  should  be  again  dug  or  plowed  and  the  mulch  re- 
moved, when  an  abundance  of  new  plants  from  runners 
will  soon  form.  If  in  the  garden,  and  another  year's  crop 
is  to  be  provided  for,  then  a  light  dressing  of  well-rotted 
manure  should  be  dug  in,  and  during  the  remainder  of  the 
season  all  runners  prevented  from  growing  and  weeds 
kept  down. 

For  field  crops,  if  the  plantation  has  borne  but  one  year, 
then  go  through  between  the  rows  and  plow  deep,  leaving 
only  the  hills  or  narrow  rows ;  smooth  down  with  the 
one-horse  harrow  and  cultivator,  and  then  from  time  to 
time  go  through  with  the  cultivator,  to  keep  down  all 
weeds  and  runners.  If  the  plantation  has  borne  two  crops, 
then  give  a  dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  along  between 
the  rows,  plow  deep,  harrow  down  smooth,,  and  let  the 


FEUIT  TREES.  323 

runners  or  new  plants  form  along  into  it,  being  careful  to 
keep  down  weeds. 

The  new  plants  will  all  be  formed  by  September,  when 
the  plow  may  again  be  used  and  the  rows  of  old  plants 
turned  under,  leaving  the  new  plants  for  the  next  crop. 
The  most  successful  growers  practise  taking  but  one  crop 
from  a  plantation.  In  so  doing,  they  plant  in  spring,  per- 
mit the  runners  to  grow  as  they  please,  but  keep  down 
all  weeds,  and  the  ground  thoroughly  cultivated.  The 
crop  is  made  the  second  season,  and  then  the  plantation 
destroyed. 

Sundry   Operations    connected    with    the    Culture 
OF  Fruit  Trees. 

1st.  The  Annual  Cultivation  of  the  Soil. — The  soil 
around  fruit  trees  should,  especially  in  the  garden,  be  kept 
in  a  clean,  friable  condition  by  the  frequent  use  of  the  hoe 
and  the  spade ;  but  in  all  these  operations  the  roots  must 
not  be  injured.  The  forked  spade  (see  Implements)  is  the 
best  for  operating  about  the  roots. 

2d.  Manuring. — The  very  common  practice  in  regard 
to  the  use  of  manure,  is  to  apply  none  for  several  years, 
until  the  trees  have  begun  to  show  signs  of  feebleness  and 
exhaustion,  when  large  quantities  are  applied,  thus  induc- 
ing a  rank,  plethoric  growth,  that  can  scarcely  fail  to  be 
seized  with  diseases.  The  proper  way  is  to  apply  a  small 
dressing  of  well-decomposed  material,  like  some  of  the 
composts  recommended,  every  autumn.  This  should  be 
forked  in  around  the  extremities  of  the  roots.  There  may 
be  rich  soils  where  this  will  be  unnecessary ;  but  most 
ordinary  garden  soils  require  it. 

3(1.  Mulching. — This  should  be  a  universal  practice  in 
our  dry  and  warm  summer  climate,  not  only  with  newly- 
planted  trees,  but  all,  and  especially  dwarfs  in  the  garden 
whose  roots  are  near  the  surface.     Three  or  four  inches 


324  FRUIT  TREES. 

deep  of  half-decayed  stable  manure  or  litter  makes  a 
good  mulching.  It  should  be  applied  in  May,  and  remain 
all  summer.  After  the  fall  dressing  a  mulching  for  the 
winter  will  protect  the  roots  and  base  of  the  tree  from 
injury;  it  should  be  bo  well  decayed  as  not  to  attract 
vermin. 

4th.  Watering. — In  dry  times,  and  especially  in  light, 
dry  soils,  fruit  trees  will  derive  vast  benefits  from  a  liberal 
syringing  overhead  in  the  evening,  with  a  hand  or  garden 
syringe  (see  Implements).  A  reservoir  in  the  garden  is 
therefore  desirable,  and  at  a  point  easy  of  access  from 
all  the  quarters  of  the  garden.  This  watering  refreshes 
the  trees,  drives  away  insects,  mildew,  etc.,  and  washes  oif 
dust  and  filth  that  may  accumulate  on  the  foliage  and  fill 
up  the  pores.  It  is  more  necessary  in  city  and  village 
than  in  country  gardens. 

Protecting  Trees  against  Extremes  of  Temperature. — 
Where  the  trunk  or  large  branches  are  liable  to  injury 
from  sudden  changes  of  temperature  in  the  winter,  or 
from  a  powerful  sun  in  summer,  they  may  be  covered 
thinly,  with  long  rye  straw,  fistened  on  with  willows. 
The  trunk  alone  is  more  easily  protected  by  means  of 
two  boards  nailed  together,  forming  an  angle  for  the  tree. 
This  is  placed  on  the  south  side,  the  injury  being  induced 
chiefly  by  the  sun  at  both  seasons. 

Newly-transplanted  trees,  especially  if  they  have  tall 
trunks,  and  are  somewhat  injured  before  planting,  may  be 
saved  by  wrapping  them  lightly  with  straw ;  a  straw  rope 
rolled  around  answers  the  purpose.  A  little  damp  moss 
is  still  better ;  an  occasional  watering  will  keep  it  cool 
and  moist,  and  enable  the  sap  to  flow  under  the  bark. 

Renovating  pyramidal  trees  of  Apples  and  Pears  that 
have  become  enfeebled  or  improdicctive  by  age,  bad  soil, 
bearing,  or  bad  pruning. — There  are  two  methods  of  doing 
this  successfully.  One  is,  to  cut  back  all  parts  of  the  tree. 
The  stem  may  be  cut  back  half  its  length,  the  lateral 


CULTURE    OF     FRUIT  TREES.  325 

branches  at  the  base  to  within  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  of 
the  stem,  and  shorter  as  they  advance  upwards,  so  that 
those  at  the  top  will  bo  cut  to  four  or  six  inches.  This 
will  preserve  the  pyramidal  form. 

It  may  appear  unnecessary  to  cut  back  the  stem,  but 
we  find  when  this  is  not  done  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
secure  an  equal  growth  between  tlie  upper  and  lower 
parts,  because  the  Avood  at  the  top  is  young,  and  attracts 
the  sap  much  more  than  the  wood  at  the  base  of  the  old 
branches  below.  For  a  few  years  after  this  renewal  the 
young  wood  at  the  top  must  be  kept  very  closely  pruned, 
to  prevent  it  from  absorbing  more  than  its  due  proportion 
of  the  sap.  When  growth  commences  on  trees  thus  cut 
back,  a  large  number  of  shoots  will  be  produced.  Amongst 
those  on  the  stem,  a  strong  and  well-placed  one  must  be 
selected  for  a  leader,  and  its  growth  favored  by  checking 
those  around  it.  Leaders  for  each  of  the  lateral  branches 
must  be  selected  and  encouraged  in  the  same  way.  The 
future  management  will  be  similar  to  that  described  for 
the  formation  of  young  trees.  We  have  succeeded  well 
with  a  large  number  of  trees  thus  treated.  Where  the 
soil  is  defective,  it  must  be  improved  and  renewed  with 
fresh  soil  and  composts,  so  that  abundant  nutriment  shall 
be  given  to  the  new  growth. 

The  second  method  of  renewal  referred  to  is,  that  of  cut- 
ting back  as  already  described,  and  grafting  each  branch. 

The  process  of  regrafting  old  orchards  of  standard 
apple-trees.,  it  is  well  known,  renews  their  vigor,  and  re- 
places old,  worn-out,  and  deformed  blanches  with  young 
and  vigorous  ones,  giving  to  the  entire  head  a  healthy  and 
youthful  appearance.  In  many  cases  this  grafting  will 
be  much  more  successful  than  simply  cutting  back,  for  the 
cions,  being  furnished  with  young  and  active  buds  that 
develop  leaves  at  once,  attract  the  sap  from  the  roots, 
place  it  in  contact  with  the  atmosphere,  and  carry  on  the 
formative  process  in  all  part?*  o^  the  trftP  with  less  inter- 


CULTURE  OF  FRUIT  TREES. 


ruption  and  greater  activity  than  where  reliance  is  placed 
upon  the  production  of  new  shoots  on  the  old  wood ;  for 
this  must  be  effected  by  awakening  dormant  buds,  which 
in  many  cases  takes  place  slowly  and  with  more  or  less 
difficulty. 


PA.RT    IV". 


SELECT    VARIETIES     OF    FRUITS— GATHERING    AND 

PRESERVING   FRUITS-DISEASES-INSECTS 

—IMPLEMENTS  IN  COMMON  USE. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ABRIDGED  DESCRIPTIONS   OP  SELECT  VARIETIES   OP  FRUITS. 

The  accumulation  of  varieties  of  fruits  within  tlie  last 
twenty  years  has  been  so  great,  that  anything  like  a  com- 
plete description  or  account  of  them  all,  would  in  itself  ex- 
ceed the  bounds  of  a  moderate-sized  volume.  Taken  al- 
together, there  are  perhaps  at  this  moment  no  fewer  than 
four  thousand  d'tfferoit  varieties  under  cultivation.  To 
trace  out  the  history,  the  peculiar  characters  and  merits 
of  these,  must  be  the  work  of  the  pomologist,  and  forms 
no  part  in  the  design  of  this  treatise.  In  making  the  fol- 
lowing selections,  and  in  describing  them,  pomological 
system  and  minuteness  have  not  been  deemed  essential, 
nor  would  they  l)e  practicable  within  the  necessary  limits. 

The  main  object  aimed  at  is,  to  bring  to  the  notice  of 
cultivators  the  best  varieties,  those  which  ample  experi- 
ence has  proved  to  be  really  valuable,  or  which  upon  a 
partial  trial  give  strong  indications  of  becoming  so. 
Nothing  is  more  embarrassing  to  the  inexperienced  culti- 
vator than  long  lists  ;  and  many  will  no  doubt  be  inclined 
to  think  that  a  large  number  of  the  following  varieties 
might  very  well  be  dispensed  with.  But  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  our  country,  even  the  great  fruit-growing 
regions  of  it,  possess  diiferent  climates,  that  there  are 
various  qualities  of  soils,  various  tastes  and  circumstances 
of  individuals,  to  be  provided  for.  A  dozen  or  twenty 
sorts  of  apples  or  pears  may  be  as  many  as  one  person 


330  SELECT  VAlilETIES    OF  PRtriTS. 

may  require ;  but  it  does  not  follow  that  these  varieties 
o»ly  are  to  be  cultivated,  for  it  is  very  pi'obable  that 
another  individual,  residing  even  in  the  same  State,  would 
make  a  selection  entirely  different.  New  York,  Massa- 
chusetts, New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Kentucky,  and 
other  States,  have  all  varieties  of  their  own  ;  and  by  the 
time  each  has  made  a  selection,  our  one  hundred  and  fifty 
varieties  will  be  appropriated,  and  a  deficiency  still  exist 
in  all  probability.  We  arc  not  of  those  who  cry  out 
against  new  varieties.  On  the  contrary,  we  look  upon 
every  one  of  real  excellence  as  an  additional  blessing  to 
the  fruit  growers  and  to  society,  for  which  they  should  be 
duly  thankful.  The  only  thing  to  be  observed  in  regard 
to  them  is,  that  before  entering  into  general  cultivation 
they  should  be  fairly  and  carefully  tested  under  various 
circumstances.  Some  well-meaning  persons  make  a  great 
outcry  against  nurserymen  and  others,  whose  business  it 
is  to  experiment,  for  extending  their  lists  or  noticing  new 
varieties,  and  against  horticultural  societies  for  offering 
premiums  for  large  collections.  If  such  a  spirit  had  pre- 
vailed, what  would  our  fruits  have  been  to-day  ? 

It  is  by  no  means  presumed  that  the  following  lists  are 
perfect,  even  as  far  as  they  go.  No  individual  possesses 
such  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  various  soils  and  cli- 
mates of  our  country,  or  of  the  varieties  of  fruits  best 
adapted  to  them,  as  to  enable  him  to  recommend  with  in- 
fallible correctness  special  lists  for  all  localities. 

In  attempting  this,  reliance  must  be  placed  upon  the 
experience  and  repoi'ts  of  others,  and  these  are  always 
liable  to  be  biased  by  tastes  or  prejudices.  These  things 
have  been  kept  in  view,  and  wherever  recommendations 
are  made  beyond  our  own  knowledge  and  experience, 
they  are  based  upon  the  most  reliable  authority,  and  it  is 
hoped  will  not  be  found  wholly  unserviceable  to  those 
especially  who  have  neither  had  experience  nor  access  to 
Bources  of  extensive  and  minute  information.     Those  who 


APPLES.  3S1 

are  not  satisfied  with  the  abridged  descriptions  are  re- 
ferred to  works  more  strictly  pomological. 

The  arrangement  of  varieties  under  the  heads  of  Swm- 
mer^  Autumn,  and  Wmter,  is  for  the  purpose  of  assisting 
the  reader  in  selecting  varieties  ripening  at  particular  sea- 
sons, while  the  terms  early  or  late  summer,  etc.,  in  place 
of  the  month,  is  because  of  its  better  application  to  the 
vaiious  States  and  sections  of  States.  For  instance,  the 
Early  Harvest  ripens  at  the  South  early  in  June,  and  at 
the  North  early  in  July,  but  in  each  section  it  is  classed 
as  ripening  in  early  summer. 

Synonyms  have  been  omitted  in  most  ca>#es,  because  of 
the  want  of  room,  and  because  the  work  is  intended  as  a 
guide  to  the  planter,  rather  than  a  work  on  pomology. 
When  inserted  they  are  in  small  capitals.  The  name 
given  to  each  fruit  is  the  recognized  name  of  the  Amer- 
ican Pomological  Society  so  far  as  recorded  in  their  Cat- 
alogue 


FIRST    DIVISION.— KERNEL    FRUIT— APPLES,    PEARS, 
AND  QUINCES. 

Sbction  1. — Select  Apples. 

class  i. — summer  apples. 

American  Summer  Pearmain. — Medium  size,  oblong ; 
skin  smooth,  red  and  yellow  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sub- 
acid.— Late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  grow- 
er, upright ;  bears  early.  A  valuable  sort  for  family  use ; 
not  profitable  in  orchards. 

Benoni. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  size,  roundish 
oblate ;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped  with  red.  Stem  short, 
calyx  closed;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  tender,  sub-acid, — Mid- 
Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  upright  grower,  hardy  and  pro* 
ductive.     A  valuable  variety  for  market  or  table  use. 


332  SELECT   VARIETIES     OF    EEUITS. 

Carolina  Red  June. — Origin  South.  Medium  or  below 
in  size,  oval  or  conic  ;  purplish  red,  on  yellow  ground  ;  stem 
variable,  calyx  closed  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  brisk  sub-acid. 
— Early  Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright  grower,  good 
bearer ;  valuable  as  an  orchard  sort  South  and  West. 
Successful  in  New  York. 

Carolina  Watson. — Large,  roundish,  flattened ;  green- 
ish, shaded  and  striped  with  red;  flesh  white,  coarse,  mild 
sub-acid. — Mid-Summer.  A  Southern  variety  not  valued 
at  the  North. 

Early  Harvest. — Origin  American.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish oblate  ;  skin  smooth,  light  pale  yellow  ;  stem  medium ; 
flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid. — Early  Summer. 
Tree  a  moderate  grower,  erect,  spreading  as  it  grows  old, 
productive.  A  valuable  variety  for  market  or  table  use 
in  almost  every  section. 

Early  Joe. — Origin  New  York.  Small  size,  oblate; 
yellowish,  covered,  striped,  and  shaded  with  red;  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  sprightly  vinous  sub-acid. — Mid-Sum- 
mer. Tree  a  slow,  upright  grower,  very  productive;  val- 
uable for  the  garden. 

Early  Pennock . — Origin  American.  Large  size,  round- 
ish, ribbed ;  yellow,  shaded  with  red ;  flesh  whitish,  rather 
coarse,  sub-acid. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  strong  grower, 
productive;  valued  as  a  market  sort  in  parts  of  Ohio 
especially. 

Early  Red  Margaret. — Origin  foreign.  Medium  or 
below  in  size,  roundish  ovate;  skin  yellowish,  striped  and 
marbied  with  dull  red;  flesh  white,  tender,  crisp,  sub-acid, 
agreeable. — Early  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  grower  and 
bearer. 

Early  Strawberry  (Red  Juneating  of  some). — Origin 
New  York.  Small,  roundish,  slightly  conical ;  skin  smooth, 
yellowish,  striped,  shaded,  and  mostly  covered  with  red; 
flesh  white,  tinged  with  red  next  the  skin,  tender,  sprightly. 


APPLES.  333 

pleasantly  sub-acid  and  perfumed  ;  very  good. — Middle 
to  late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  ujd right  grower,  an 
abundant  bearer,  ripening  its  fruit  along  evenly  for  a 
mouth  or  more.     \'aluable  for  orchard  or  garlen. 

Family  (McGloud's  Family).— Origin  Georgia.  Me- 
uium,  oblate-conical ;  yellow,  striped  wich  dull  red ; 
tlesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  mild,  sub-acid.  Late  Summer. 
Tree  a  good  grower  and  productive.   Valued  at  the  South. 

Fanny. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Large,  roundish-ob- 
late ;  crimson-red,  sprinkled  witli  light  dots  ;  flesh  white, 
tender,  juicy,  sub-acid,  fine  ilavored. — Mid-Summer, 
Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive. 

Fonndlin^. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  to  large, 
oblate-conic  ;  yellowish-green,  striped  with  deep  red  ; 
flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  rich. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  a 
poor  grower  in  the  nursery. 

Golden  Sweet. — Origin  Connecticut.  Medium  or  above, 
roundish,  pale  yellow  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  sweet, 
rich. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  a  strong  grower,  spreading,  a 
good  be<irer.     Valuable  for  cooking,  market,  or  stock. 

Ili^htop  Sweet  (Sweet  June). — Origin  Massachusetts. 
Medium  or  below  in  size,  roundish,  light  yellow  ;  flesh 
yellowish,  sweet,  pleasant,  very  good. — Mid-Summer. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  productive.  Valued  for  the  mar- 
ket orchard. 

Julian  (Julien). — Origin  South.  Medium,  roundish- 
conical  ;  color  whitish,  striped  with  rich  red  ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish-white, tender,  juicy,  fine  flavored. — Mid-Summer. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  very  jn'oductive.  Highly 
valued  at  the  South. 

Lari^c  Yellow  Boui^h  (Early  Sweet  Bough). — Origin 
American.  Large,  oblong-ovate  ;  skin  smooth,  greenish- 
yellow  ;  flesh  white,  tender,  sprightly,  rich,  sweet.— 
Early  to  Mid-Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  com 
pact,  good  bearer.     One  of  the  best  for  table  or  market. 


334  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Primate* — Probably  American.  Medium,  roundish- 
oblate  ;  greenish-white,  blush  cheek  in  the  sun  ;  flesb 
wliite,  very  tender,  sprightly,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Sum- 
mer. Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  upright,  very  productive. 
An  excellent  dessert  sort ;  too  tender  for  distant  market. 

Red  Astrachan. — Origin  Kussian.  Large,  roundish  ; 
nearly  covered  with  deep  crimson  and  a  thick  bloom  ; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich  acid. — xVlid-!Summer.  Tree  vig- 
orous, strong  grower,  upright,  spreading,  good  bearer. 
^'•*eil  kuovvn  as  one  of  the  most  profitable  of  orchard  sorts, 
and  valuable  for  the  dcosart  when  gathered  at  the  right 
time.  Probably  the  most  profitable  early  summer  apple 
in  every  part  of  our  country  from  Maine  to  California. 

Repka. ^Origin  Russian.  Small  or  medium,  roundish, 
regular ;  skin  pale  straw-color  ;  flesh  fine  grained,  crisp, 
j-.ii3y,  sub-acid,  good  quality. — Summer.  Tree  moderate 
grower,  productive. 

Slimmer  Hagloe, — Origin  American.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish-oblate  ;  yellow,  striped  and  splashed  with 
red,  slight  bloom  ;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. 
• — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous,  stocky,  short-jointed 
grower,  making  a  handsome  round  head,  productive. 
An  old  sort,  but  comparatively  little  known ;  valuable 
for  orchard  or  garden. 

Slimmer  PJppin  (Champlain). — Origin  unknown. 
Medium  to  large;  roundish,  inclining  to  conic  ;  waxen- 
yellow,  shadod  crimson  ;  flesh  white,  tender,  moderate];^ 
juicy,  pleasant,  sub-acid. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  vig- 
oro'is,  productive.  A  profitable  market  variety,  much 
cultivated  in  Rockland  and  Westchester  Counties,  N.  Y. 

Summer  Queen. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  conical  ; 
striped  and  shaded  with  red;  flesh  aromatic,  whitish- 
yellow,  rich  and  agreeable. — Late  Summer.  Tree  vig- 
orous, spreading,  productive.  A  popular  and  successful 
market  sort. 


APPLES.  335 

Siim.a^r  Ras?  (Lippmcoxi's  Eakly,  etc.). — Origin 
'N^:;\Y  Jj:sjy.  Medium  or  bjlow  in  size,  rounciisli, 
s.iijjla  ;  yellow,  streaked  and  blotched  with  red  ;  flesh 
l.ndjr,  jaicj,  rich,  delicious,  spicy  sub-acid.— Middle  to 
Li!;j  Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  hardy,  an 
early  and  productive  bearer.  Highly  valued  as  a  dessert 
fruit. 

Suunner  Sweet  Paradise.— Origin  Pennsylvania. 
Large,  round,  slightly  oblate;  greeni^i-yellosv ;  flesh 
very  tender,  juicy,  crisp,  rich  aromatic  sweet. — Late 
Summer.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  A  val- 
uable dessert  sort,  too  tender  for  market. 

Tetofsky. — Origin  Russia.  Medium,  oblate,  nearly 
round  ;  yellowish,  striped  and  shaded  with  red,  thick 
v/hitisli  bloom  ;  flesh  white,  Juicy,  sprightly  acid,  fra- 
grant.— Early  Summer.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  with 
large  foliage,  which  most  Russian  varieties  seem  to  have  ; 
very  liardy  ;  an  early  and  aljundant  bearer,  valued  as  an 
orchard  sort, 

Titovka  (Titus  Apple). — Origin  Russia.  Large,  al- 
most like  a  Twenty  Ounce  ;  greenish-yellow,  striped  and 
splashed  with  red  ;  flesh  rather  coarse,  moderately  juicy, 
sub-acid,  medium  quality. — Late  Summer.  Tree  vig- 
orous and  productive. 

Townsend  (Hocking,  etc.). — Origin  Pennsylvania. 
Medium,  oblate;  pale  yellow,  striped  with  red,  thin 
bloom;  flesh  white,  tender,  mild,  agreeable  sub-acid.— 
Lite  Summer.  Tree  vigorous,  upright  grower,  good 
bearer.  An  old  sort,  valued  for  market  in  some  localities. 

William's  Favorite  (William's  Red,  etc.). — Origin 
Massacluisetts.  Medium,  roundish-oblong ;  light  and 
dark  red;  flesh  yellowish-white,  mild  sub-acid. — Middle 
to  late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  upright 
grower,  good  bearer,  A  beautiful  and  popular  market 
sprt. 


336  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   PEUITS. 

Yellow  Transparent. — Origin  Russian.  Medium  i-ound- 

ioli,  llatteued,  slightly  couica!;  color  white  at  first,  tcvix- 
mg  to  a  pale  yellow;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  sprightly, 
su  >acid. — Ripens  before  Tetofsky.  Tree  an  upright 
f-rower,  vigorous,  hardy,  and  productive. 

CLASS   II, — AUTUMN    APPLES. 

Alexander. — Origin  Russian.  Large  or  very  large, 
coni>5al;  yellow,  mostly  shaded  with  red,  light  bloom; 
ilesli  yellowish-white,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — 
Middle  to  late  Autumn.  A  superb  fruit.  Tree  a  vigor- 
ous spreading  grower,  and  when  grown  as  a  dwarf,  pro- 
ducing fruit  of  the  largest  size  and  greatest  beauty. 

iutunin  Sweet  Hou£^h  (Fall  Bough,  etc.). — Origin 
Pennsylvania.  Medium,  conical ;  pale  yellow  ;  flesh 
white,  very  tender,  sweet,  vinous. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
vigorous,  upright,  productive.  A  highly  esteemed  dessert 
variety. 

Beauty  of  Kent. — A  well-known  popular  English  vari- 
ety. Large  to  very  large,  roundish;  greenish-yellow, 
with  broken  stripes  of  red;  stem  short,  calyx  small;  flesh 
juicy,  crisp,  tender,  sub-acid. — Late  Autumn  and  early 
AVinter.  Tree  very  vigorous,  upright,  and  moderately 
productive.   A  showy  fruit,  and  highly  valued  for  cooking. 

Campfield  (Newark  Sweeting). — Origin  New  Jersey. 
Medium,  roundish-oblate;  greenish-yellow,  with  shades 
and  stripes  of  red;  flesh  white,  dry,  firm,  rich,  sweet  — 
Late  Autumn,  but  will  often  keep  until  Spring.  Tree 
a  moderate,  healthy  grower,  spreading,  very  productive. 
Tins  is  a  celebrated  cider  apple  in  New  Jersey,  and  is 
valued  for  bakin;?  and  for  stock  feeding. 

barter's  Blue. — Origin  Alabama.  Large,  roundish, 
flattened;  greenish,  mostly  covered  with  dull  red  and  a 
blue  bloom;  flesh  yellowish-white,  sugary,  rich,  aromatic. 


APPLES.  337 

Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  fine  upright  grower  and  an  early 
bearer;  popular  in  some  parts  of  the  South. 

€henaii£i:o  Strawberry  (Sherwood's  Favorite,  etc.). 
— Origin  New  York.  Medium  to  large,  oblong-conic; 
shaded,  splashed,  and  mottled  with  crimson,  red,  and 
white;  flesli  white,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — ijarly 
Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading.  Wherever  grown 
this  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  table  fruit  of  fair  quality  and 
great  beauty. 

Cornell's  Fancy,— Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium, 
oblong-conical;  yellow,  shaded  with  crimson-red;  flesh 
white,  tender,  crisp,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Tree  vig- 
orous and  productive. 

Duchess  of  Oldenbur^h. — Origin  Eussian.  Medium  to 
large,  roundisli;  streaked  and  shaded  red  on  yellow;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  sprightly,  sharp  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer,  and  very  hardy.  This  variety  is  probably  more 
generally  cultivated  West  and  N"orth-west  than  any  other. 
Everywhere  it  succeeds  and  proves  profitable  as  an  orch- 
ard variety. 

Dyer  (Pomme  Eotale,  Golden  Spice,  etc.). — Origin 
foreign.  Medium  size,  roundish;  greenish-yellow,  with 
blush  in  the  sun ;  flesh  white,  very  tender,  juicy, 
sprightly  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Mid- Autumn.  Tree 
a  moderate  grower,  productive.  This  is  one  of  the  best 
of  dessert  apples,  but  too  tender  and  not  showy  enough 
for  shipment  to  distant  markets. 

Fall  Pippin. — Supposed  American.  Large  to  very 
large,  roundish,  flattened  at  ends;  yellowish;  flesli  white, 
tender,  rich,  aromatic,  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading.  The  Fall  Pippin,  in 
sections  where  there  are  no  great  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture, is  one  of  the  most  valuable  varieties,  either  foi 
table  or  market;  popular  over  a  great  extent  of  country. 
15 


338  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

Fall  Wine  (Ohio  Wine,  etc.). — Origin  American. 
Medium  or  above,  roundisli-oblate;  light  ground,  mostly 
covered  with  red;  flesh  yellowish-white,  tender,  juicy, 
rich,  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Mid- Autumn.  Tree  a 
slender  but  healthy  grower,  moderate  annual  bearer. 
This  variety  fails  in  most  sections  East,  but  in  the  new, 
rich  soils  of  the  West  it  is  one  of  the  best,  and  the  fruit 
valuable  for  dessert  or  market. 

Garden  Royal. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  or 
below  in  size,  roundish-oblong;  greenish -yellow,  striped 
and  splashed  with  red  and  russet;  flesh  yellowish,  very 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  mild  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  very  pro- 
ductive. This  is  perhaps,  in  quality,  the  best  apple 
grown,  and  desirable  for  the  amateur,  but  not  profitable 
as  an  orchard  variety. 

Gravenstein. — Origin  German.  Large,  roundish,  flat- 
tened; yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  Avith  red;  flesh  ten- 
der, crisp,  with  a  peculiar,  high,  aromatic  flavor. — Early 
Autumn,  but  sometimes  keeps  to  Mid- Winter.  Tree 
vigorous,  spreading,  and  very  productive.  One  of  the 
most  profitable  sorts  either  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Hawthornden. — Origin  Scotch.  Above  medium,  round- 
ish, slightly  oblate;  light  yellow,  with  blush  in  the  sun; 
flesh  white,  juicy,  sharp  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
vigorous  but  small,  upright,  spreading,  very  productive 
and  hardy.  A  valuable  sort  for  cooking  and  drying,  and 
profitable  for  market. 

Jefferis. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium,  roundish; 
yellow,  shaded  and  splashed  with  red;  flesh  white,  ten- 
der, juicy,  rich,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a 
moderate,  healthy  grower,  productive. 

Jersey  Sweet, — Origin  unknown.  Medium  size,  round- 
ish-ovate ;  greenish-yellow,  washed  and  streaked  with 
red,  and  often  covered  with  stripes  of  pale  and  dark  redj 


APPLES.  339 

flesh  white,  juicy,  tender,  sprightly,  sweet. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  moderately  vigorous,  very  productive. 
Highly  valued  for  dessert,  cooking,  stock,  or  market. 

Keswick  i'odliii. — Origin  English.  Above  medium  in 
size,  rather  conical;  greenish-yellow,  Avitli  a  faint  blush  in 
the  sun;  flesh  yellowish-white,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. 
— Early  Autunin.  Tree  vigorous,  a  very  early  and 
abundant  bearer.  One  of  the  most  profitable  sorts  for 
cooking  or  market. 

Late  Strawberry  (Autumk  Steawbeert). — Origin 
New  York.  Medium  size,  roundish,  slightly  conic;  flesh 
yellowish-white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acicL — Late  Autumn. 
Tree  vigorous,  upright,  spreading;  an  early  and  abun. 
dant  bearer. 

Lowell  (QuEEN"  AsTNE,  Tallow  Pippin", etc.). — Origin 
unknown.  Large,  roundish-oval  or  conic;  waxen-yel- 
low, oily;  flesh  yellowish-white;  brisk,  rich  sub-acid. — • 
Mid-Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive. 
A  valuable  variety  for  either  garden  or  orchard,  a  fine 
dessert  apple  and  a  showy  market  fruit. 

Lyman's  Pimipkin  Sweet  (Pumpkin^  Sweet,  Vee- 
MONT  Pumpkin  Hweet,  etc.). — Origin  probably  Con- 
necticut. Large  to  very  large,  roundish;  green,  with 
whitish  streaks  and  white  dots;  flesh  white,  very  sweet. — 
Early  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  very  vigorous,  upright, 
spreading.     Valued  for  baking,  stock,  or  market. 

Maiden's  Blush,  —  Origin  New- Jersey.  Medium, 
roundish-oblate;  pale  lemon-yellow,  Avith  a  bright  crim- 
son cheek  next  the  sun;  flesh  white,  tender,  sprightly, 
brisk  sub-acid. — Early  and  Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  fine 
grower  with  a  spreading  head,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer.  A  profitable  orchard  sort.  Valued  for  table, 
cooking,  or  market. 

Manjfum  (Fall  Cheese  of  Vikginia,  etc.).— Origin 
Southern.     Medium,  flattened,  slightly  conic;  yellowish. 


340  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

mostly  covered  and  strij^ed  with  red;  flesh  yellow,  tender, 
juicy,  mild  siib-iicid. — Late  Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy, 
good  grower,  productive.  This,  one  of  the  best  of  South- 
ern apples,  has  a  dozen  or  more  synonyms,  and  is  widely 
grown  South  ancl  South-west. 

Meiiagcrc. — Of  European  origin.  Very  large  and 
beautiful;  much  flattened;  pale  yellow,  sometimes  blush- 
red  in  the  sun;  flesh  tolerably  juicy. — Late  Autumn. 
Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  and  a  good  bearer.  Valued  for 
market  and  cooking. 

Ohio  IVonpareil  (Myer's  Nonpareil). — Medium  to 
large,  roundish-oblate;  yellow,  shaded,  marbled,  and 
splashed  with  shades  of  red;  flesh  yellowish-white,  fine- 
grained, tender,  juicy,  rich  aromatic  sub-acid. — Late  Au- 
tumn. Tree  vigorous,  with  stout  straight  shoots,  making 
a  regular,  spreading,  open  head,  productive.  Valuable 
for  table  or  market. 

Porter, — Origin  Massachusetts.  Above  medium  size, 
oblong,  narrowing  to  the  eye;  bright  yellow,  with  blush 
in  the  sun;  flesh  fine-grained,  crisp,  firm  yet  tender, 
sprightly  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a 
moderate  grower,  forming  a  low,  round,  spreading  head, 
productive.  Highly  esteemed  for  table  or  market,  and. 
succeeding  in  all  good,  rich  soils. 

Red  Bietiffheimer, — Origin  Germany.  Large  to  very 
large;  roundish-oblate,  somewhat  inclining  to  conical; 
skin  pale  cream-colored  ground,  mostly  covered  with 
purplish-crimson;  flesh  white,  firm,  with  a  brisk,  pleasant 
sub-acid  flavor. — Early  Autumn.  Growth  vigorous,  tree 
productive.  One  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  of 
apples. 

Richard's  Graft  (Red  Spitzenburgh,  etc.). — Origin 
New  York.  Medium,  roundish,  flattened;  yellow,  nearly 
covered  with  shades  of  red;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy, 
a,romt^tic  sub-acid, — JGarly  Autumn. 


■    APPLES.  341 

Rome  Beauty. — Origin  Ohio.  Large  to  very  Lirgc, 
rouudisli;  yellow,  sluided  and  stri})cd  with  red;  flesh  ycl- 
lowisli,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Autumn.  Tree  a 
moderate  grower,  late  bloomer,  productive. 

St.  Lawrence. — Supposed  origin  Canada.  Large,  ob- 
late; yellowish,  strii^ed  and  splashed  with  deep  red;  flesh 
white,  slightly  stained  with  red,  juicy,  tender,  vinous 
sub-acid. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  pro- 
ductive. 

Sops  of  Wine  (Homixy,  etc.). — Origin  foreign.  Me- 
dium, roundish;  yellow  and  red,  splashed  and  shaded 
with  deep  red;  flesh  white,  often  stained,  not  very  juicy, 
pleasant  siib-acid. — Early  Autumn. 

Stump. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundish-coni- 
cal; skin  white,  striped  and  splashed  with  crimson;  flesh 
white,  tender,  juicy,  with  a  pleasant  sub-acid  flavor. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  an  upright,  stocky  grower,  and 
abundant  bearer.  A  favorite  early  market  fruit  where  it 
originated. 

Washington  Strawberry. — Origin  New  York.  Large, 
roundish -conical;  yellow,  shaded,  splashed,  and  mottled 
with  rich  red;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  tender,  juicy,  brisk 
sub-acid. —  Early  to  Mid- Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  up- 
right, spreading,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  A  fine 
market  sort. 

CLASS   III. — WINTER   APPLES. 

American  Beauty  (Sterling  Beauty).— Origin  Mas- 
sachusetts. Large,  roundish;  yellow,  covered  wich  dark 
red;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid. — Early 
to  late  Winter.     Tree  vigorous,  productive. 

American  Golden  Russet  (Bullock's  Pippin,  Little 
Pearmain,  etc.). — Below  medium  size,  roundish-ovate; 
dull  yellow,  marbled  with  thin  russet;    flesh  yellowish. 


342  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  FRtTITS. 

very  tender,  Juicy,  rich,  spicy.— Early  to  Mid- Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate  upright  grower  and  good  bearer.  Valued 
for  table  or  market,  for  West  and  South. 

American  Goldeu  Pippin  (Golden  Pippin  of  West- 
CHESTER  County).— Medium  to  large,  roundish,  sliglitly 
flattened;  yellow,  with  a  brownish  blush  in  the  sun;  tlesh 
yellowish,  juicy,  aromatic  sub-acid. —Early  Winter.  Tree 
a  strong  grower,  making  a  spreading  head;  not  an  early, 
but  abundant  bearer. 

Baldwin. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Large,  roundish, 
narrowing  to  the  eye ;  yellow  ground,  nearly  covered  with 
a  rich,  bright  red;  flesh  yellowish- white,  crisp,  juicy, 
pleasant  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  very  vig- 
orous, upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer. 
In  many  sections  of  New  England,  New  York,  Michigan, 
and  Ontario,  this  is  one  of  the  most  popular  and  profita- 
ble sorts  for  either  table  or  market.  In  the  South  and 
South-west  it  matures  with  the  late  autumn  varieties. 

Bailey's  Sweet, — Supposed  origin  New  York.  Large, 
roundish-conical,  slightly  oblong;  yellow,  mostly  covered, 
shaded,  and  obscurely  striped  with  red;  flesh  white,  ten- 
der, very  sweet. — Early  to  Mid- Winter.  Tree  vigorous, 
upright,  spreading,  productive.  Valued  for  table  use  or 
near  market,  too  tender  for  shipping. 

Belle  de  Boskoop. — Said  to  be  of  Russian  origin.  Me- 
dium to  large,  oblate;  skin  yellow  with  light  and  dark 
red  over  nearly  the  whole  surface;  flesh  a  little  coarse, 
crisp,  tender,  juicy  and  of  very  good  quality. — Late  Win- 
ter. 

Belmont  (G-ate,  etc.). — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium 
to  large,  roundish  ;  light,  waxen-yellow,  with  vermilion- 
spotted  cheek  in  the  sun ;  flesh  yellowish- white,  very  ten- 
der, Juicy,  mild,  agreeable. — Early  to  Mid- Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,   productive.     A  beautiful  dessert 


APPLES.  343 

variety,  fine  in  Northern  Ohio,  Michigan  and  New  York, 
but  variable  South  and  West. 

Ben  Davis  (New  York  Pippin",  etc.). — Supposed 
American.  Medium  to  large,  roundisli-conical ;  yellow, 
mostly  overspread,  splashed,  and  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh 
white,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  productive, 
blooms  late.  Popular  as  a  market  variety  at  the  West 
and  South-west, 

Beutley's  Sweet. — Supposed  origin  Virginia.  Medium, 
roundish,  flattened  at  the  ends ;  yellowish-green,  shaded 
with  pale  red ;  flesh  wliitish,  firm.  Juicy,  sweet. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  a  good  bearer.  Es- 
teemed in  rich  soils  of  the  South-west. 

Blue  Pearmain. — Very  large,  roundish  ;  dark  purplish- 
red,  with  bloom  ;  flesh,  yellowish,  mild,  sub-acid.  — Early 
Winter.     Tree  vigorous  and  a  moderate  bearer. 

Bonum  (Magnum  Bonum). — Origin  North  Carolina. 
Medium,  oblate  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  crimson  and 
dark  red;  flesh  white,  often  stained  red  next  the  skin, 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer. 

Broadwell. — Origin  Ohio.     Medium,  oblate-conic;  yel 
low,  with  dull  blush  and  carmine  spots  in  the  sun ;  flesh 
whitish,  firm,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — Early  Winter.     Tree 
vigorous,  quite  spreading,  productive.     A  valuable  apple 
for  table  or  cooking. 

BiickiBSham(EQuiNETELY,FALLQuEEN,etc.). — Origin 
Unknown.  Medium  to  large,  oblate,  slightly  conic;  green-, 
ish-yellow,  mostly  covered  with  rich  red  ;  flesh  yellowish, 
coarse,  breaking,  juicy,  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  hardy,  and  productive.  This  va- 
riety is  widely  known  in  the  South  and  South-west,  and  is 
popular  for  market  or  table;  it  has  over  twenty  synonyms. 


344  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Calef  Sweet. — Origiii  New  Hampshire.  Large,  round- 
ish, flattened  ;  yellow,  dotted  with  gray  and  crimson  ; 
flesh  white,  sweet,  and  good  in  quality. — Mid- Winter. 
Valuable  for  culinary  purposes  as  well  as  for  market. 

€anada  Reinette  (Reinette  Canada,  etc.). — Origin 
uncertalu,  proljubly  foreign.  Large  to  very  large,  oblate- 
conical  ;  greeuish-yellow  ;  flesh  rather  firm,  juicy,  lively 
siib-acid.— Late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  with  an  open, 
spreading  head,  very  productive.  A  popular  variety,  suc- 
cessful in  most  localities. 

I'annon  Permain. — Origin  American.  Medium,  round- 
ish-conic ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  two  shades  of  red  ; 
flesh  yellow,  firm,  crisp,  rich,  brisk  sub-acid. — Mid- Win- 
ter. Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  Esteemed 
where  known  South  and  West. 

('0j?svvell . — Origin  Connecticut.  Above  medium,  round- 
ish-oblate ;  red  on  yellow  ground  ;  flesh  yellowish-white, 
rather  firm,  juicy,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Win- 
ter. Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous,  upright  grower,  and  good 
bearer.     Extremely  valuable  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Cooper's  Market  (Eedling). — Origin  probably  New 
Jersey.  Medium,  oblate-conic;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped 
with  red;  flesh  white,  tender,  brisk  sub-acid. — Late  Win- 
ter. A  good  keeper.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  upright, 
productive.     Considerably  grown  in  Western  New  York. 

Cullasa^a. — Origin  North  Carolina.  Medium  to  large, 
roundish  ;  yellowish,  shaded  and  striped  with  dark  red  ; 
flesh  yellowish,  firm,  moderately  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — 
Early  to  late  Winter.     Tree  a  good  grower  and  productive. 

Danvers  Winter  Sweet. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Me- 
dium to  large,  roundish-oblong ;  yellow,  with  an  orange 
blush;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  rich. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  poor  grower  but  a  good  bearer.     Useful  for  baking. 

Disharoon. — Origin  Georgia.  Medium,  roundish, 
slightly  conical ;  yellowish-green  ;  flesh  yellowish-white. 


APPLES.  345 

jnicy,  tender,  with  an  agreeable  sub-acid  flavor. — Early 
Winter.  Tree  vigorous  and  productive.  Cultivated 
largely  at  the  South. 

DoDiiue  (English  Red  Streak,  etc.). — Origin  uncer- 
tain. Medium,  oblate;  greenish-yellow,  Avith  stripes  and 
splashes  of  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy, 
sprightly,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Early  and  Mid-Winter. 
Tree  rapid,  vigorous  grower,  and  a  very  early  and  abund- 
ant bearer.  It  is  a  popular  and  profitable  Orchard  sort  in 
most  localities. 

Dutch  Mig^nonnc— Origin  Holland.  Medium,  round- 
ish-oblate; yellow,  shaded,  striped,  and  splashed  with  red; 
flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  slightly  sub-acid. — Early  to 
late  Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  spread- 
ing, hardy  and  very  productive. 

English  Russet  (Poughkeepsie  Russet). — Origin  un- 
known. Medium,  roundish,  slightly  conical ;  greenish- 
yellow,  mostly  covered  with  russet;  flesh  yellowish-white, 
pleasant,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate, 
erect  grower,  forming  a  straight,  upright,  round  head, 
very  productive.     A  profitable  variety. 

Esopus  Spitzenburgh. —  Origin  New  York.  Above 
medium  to  large,  oblong-roundish;  yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  rich  red ;  flesh  yellow,  crisp,  juicy,  rich,  brisk  aro- 
matic flavor. — Mid  to  late  AVinter.  Tree  a  healthy  but 
not  strong  grower,  a  good  but  not  early  bearer.  One  of 
the  very  best  for  dessert. 

Fallawater  (Tulpehocken,  etc.).— Origin  Pennsyl- 
vania. Very  large,  round ;  yellowish-green,  dull  red 
shade  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  greenish-white,  juicy,  tender, 
pleasant  sub-acid. — Mid- Winter.  Tree  a  very  strong, 
rather  irregular  grower,  productive.  A  popular  market 
sort  in  many  sections.     It  has  many  synonyms. 

Fall  Queen  (Haas). — Origin  Missouri.  Large,  flat, 
ribbed,  or  quartered;  yellowish-green,  streaked  and  nearly 


346  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF   FRUITS. 

covered  with  dull  brovvnisli-red;  flesh  white,  tender,  juicy, 
sub-acid,  good. — September  to  November.  Tree  very 
hardy  aud  vigorous.  Highly  esteemed  at  the  West  and 
South-west  as  a  profitable  market  fruit  and  for  family 
use. 

Tameiise  (Snow). — Origin  supposed  to  be  France. 
Medium,  roundish ;  greenish-yellow,  mostly  covered  with 
dark  crimson  ;  flesh  remarkable  for  its  snowy  whiteness, 
very  tender,  juicy,  with  a  slight,  pleasant  perfume. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  an  early  and 
abundant  bearer,  very  hardy.  Highly  prized  for  table  or 
market. 

Gilpin  (Little  Eomanite,  etc.).  —  Origin  Virginia. 
Small  to  medium,  roundish-oblong ;  yellow,  mostly 
covered  with  red ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  juicy,  rich. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  very  hardy,  vigorous,  very  productive. 
An  old  sort,  highly  prized  South  and  West  for  orchard- 
ing. 

Golden  Russet  of  Western  New  York.  —  Medium, 
roundish;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  dull  russet,  fre- 
quently a  dull  blush  on  one  side ;  flesh  greenish-white, 
fine-grained,  sprightly,  mild  sub-acid. — Late  Winter. 
Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer. 
A  popular  variety  wherever  known.  It  is  distinguished 
among  other  russets  by  its  peculiar  light-colored  speckled 
shoots. 

Granite  Beauty. — Origin  New  Hampshire.  Medium 
to  large,  roundish-ovate,  ribbed ;  yellow,  striped  bright 
red;  flesh  whitish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Mid- 
Winter.     Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  hardy. 

Green  fheese.  —  Medium,  oblate;  greenish-yellow; 
flesh  yellowish-white,  crisp,  tender,  juicy,  sprightly  sub- 
acid.— Mid-Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright, 
blooms  late  and  bears  well.  It  is  largely  grown  South 
and  South-west. 


APPLES.  347 

Green  Sweet  (Honey  Greening). — Medium,  round- 
ish, oblate;  green,  becoming  yellowish-green  at  maturity; 
flesh  whitish,  tender,  juicy,  sweet. — Mid-Winter.  Troo 
vigorous,  upright,  spreading,  productive. 

Grimes'  Golden. — Origin  Virginia.  Medium,  roundish, 
oblate;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  spicy  sub-acid. — 
Late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  productive.  Has 
been  considerably  disseminated  recently  ;  succeeds  best 
West  and  South. 

Hall. — Origin  North  Carolina.  Small,  oblate,  slightly 
conic;  greenish-yellow,  mostly  shaded  with  crimson;  flesh 
yellowish,  fine  grained,  with  a  rich  aromatic  flavor. — 
Early  to  late  Winter.  Growth  moderate,  upright,  pro- 
ductive. Extensively  grown  and  highly  prized  at  the 
South. 

Hewes'  Vlrjfinia  €rab.— Small,  round  ;  dull  red  ;  flesh 
fibrous,  astringent ;  valued  for  cider. 

Hoover  (Black  Coal).  —  Origin  South  Carolina. 
Medium,  roundish  ;  yellowish,  splashed  with  crimson, 
and  spotted  with  whitish  dots  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender, 
juicy,  rich. — Early  Winter.  Tree  spreading.  Esteemed 
at  the  South. 

Hubbardston  IVonsuch. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Large 
roundish,  oblong  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red;  flesh 
yellowish,  juicy,  tender. — Early  Winter.  Tree  a  good 
but  irregular,  spreading  grower,  productive.  A  popular 
and  valuable  sort. 

Hurlbut. — Origin  Connecticut.  Medium,  oblate,  slight- 
ly conic  ;  yellow,  striped  red  ;  flesh  white,  crisp,  tender, 
mild  sub-acid  flavor. — Early  Winter.  Tree  very  vigorous 
and  a  great  bearer. 

Jewett's  Fine  Red  (Nodhead).— Origin  New  Hamp- 
shire. Medium,  roundish-oblate;  greenish-yellow,  striped 
crimson  j  flesh  tender,  fine  grained,  juicy^    mild,  very 


848         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

pleasant. — Mid- Autumn  into  Winter.     Tree  a  moderate 
grower  and  productive. 

Jonathan. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundish- 
conical  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red;  flesh  white, 
tender,  juicy,  sprightly  vinous. — Early  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  hardy,  moderately  vigoi'ous  grower,  upright, 
spreading,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  One  of  the 
best  and  most  popular  sorts,  both  East  and  West,  either 
for  table  or  market. 

JunaUiskee. — Origin  North  Carolina.  Medium  to 
iarge,  roundish,  flattened ;  yellow,  shaded  on  the  sun 
side ;  flesh  yellowish,  moderately  juicy,  sub-acid. — Early 
to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  moderately  vigorous  grower,  pro- 
ductive. 

Kin^  of  Tompkins  bounty.  —  Origin  New  Jersey. 
Large,  roundish  ;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped  with  red ; 
flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  aromatic 
sub-acid. — Mid- Winter.  Tree  very  vigorous,  spreading, 
productive. 

Lady  Apple.  —Origin  France.  Small,  oblate  ;  lemon- 
yellow,  with  a  brilliant  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white,  crisp, 
tender,  juicy,  pleasant.  —  Mid  to  late  Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  very  upright,  productive.  A  beau- 
tiful and  delicious  dessert  apple,  and  a  profitable  market 
sort.     It  often  commands  110  to  120  per  bbl. 

Lady's  Sweet. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish  ; 
yellowish-green,  nearly  covered  with  red  ;  flesh  tender, 
juicy,  crisp,  sprightly,  agreeable,  sweet. — Late  Winter. 
Tree  a  thrifty  but  not  strong  grower,  an  early  and 
abundant  bearer.     Valued  as  a  dessert  sort  and  keeper. 

Limber  Twij?.— Origin  North  Carolina.  Medium  or 
above,  roundish  ;  greenish-yellow,  shaded  with  dull  red; 
flesh  not  very  tender,  juicy,  brisk  sub-acid. — Late  Wmter. 
Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  productive.  A  popular  market 
variety  South  and  West. 


APPLES.  349 

McAfee's  IVonsiich  (Large  Striped  Winter  Pear- 
main). — Origin  Kentucky.  Medium  to  large,  roundish- 
oblate  ;  yellow,  strij^ed  and  splashed  with  red ;  flesh 
yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid,  rich. — Early 
Winter.  Tree  vigorous  and  productive.  Esteemed  at 
the  West  and  South-west. 

Mann. — Origin  New  York.  Medium  to  large,  round- 
ish-oblate ;  skin  yellow  when  ripe,  often  brownish-red 
where  exposed,  and  sprinkled  with  gray  dots  ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, juicy,  mild  sub-acid  flavor.  Tree  a  good  grower 
and  productive.  A  late  keeper,  and  valued  particularly 
on  that  account. 

Melon. — Origin  New  York,  Medium  or  above,  round- 
ish-oblate; pale  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red,  and 
traces  of  russet;  fiesb  white,  tender,  juicy,  vinous  sub- 
acid.— Mid- Winter.  Tree  a  slow  grower,  making  a  round, 
small  head,  good  bearer. 

Milam. — Origin  doubtful.  Medium  or  small,  round; 
greenish,  striped  and  shaded  with  red;  flesh  rather  firm, 
flavor  pleasant  sub-acid,  not  rich. — Late  Winter.  Tree 
hardy  and  productive.  Valued  at  the  West  and  South- 
west. 

Missouri  Pippin  (Missouri  Keeper). — Origin  Mis- 
souri. Large  to  very  large,  roundish-oblate;  whitish- 
yellow,  striped  and  splashed  with  light  and  dark  red; 
flesh  yellowish,  rather  coarse,  crisp,  mild  sub-acid,  good 
flavor. — Late  Winter.  Tree  npright,  spreading,  hardy 
and  an  abundant  bearer.  Regarded  as  a  very  valuable 
variety  in  Missouri,  Kansas  etc. 

Monmouth  Pippin. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  ob- 
late; pale  yellow,  Avith  a  red  cheek  in  tbe  sun;  flesh  juicy, 
brisk,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Winter.  Keeps 
well.  Tree  a  moderate,  upright  grower,  and  productive. 
A  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit. 

Moore's  Sweet  (Red  Sweet  Pippin,  etc.).— Mcdiumj 


850  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FEIHTS. 

roundish,  flattened;  dark,  dull  red;  flesh  yellowish, 
pleasant,  rich,  sweet. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  mod- 
erately vigorous,  hardy,  very  productive.  A  profitable 
orchard  sort  for  market,  cooking,  or  stock-feeding. 

Mother. — Origin  Massachusetts,  Medium,  roundish, 
slightly  conical;  yellow,  nearly  covered,  splashed,  and 
marbled  with  ricli  shades  of  red;  flesh  yellowish,  tender, 
juicy,  rich,  aromatic  sub-acid. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  upright,  productive.  A  valuable 
dessert  apple. 

Miinson  Sweet  (Orange  Sweet,  etc.).— Origin  prob- 
ably Massachusetts.  Medium,  flat;  yellow,  with  some- 
times a  blush;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  sweet. — Autumn 
and  early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  spreading  grower, 
and  a  good  bearer. 

IVewtown  Pippin  (Green  Newtown  Pippin).—  Origin 
Long  Island.  Medium,  roundish,  obscurely  ribbed;  olive- 
green,  brownish  on  the  sunny  side;  flesh  greenish- white, 
very  juicy,  crisp,  with  delicious  aromatic  flavor. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  a  slender,  slow  grower,  on  rich  soils 
makes  a  medium-sized  round  head,  productive.  Both 
this  and  the  Yellow  Newtown  Pijipin  require  rich  soil 
and  good  care,  and  with  these  are  profitable  only  in 
particular  localities.  There  is  so  little  difference  between 
the  two  that  many  regard  them  as  identical. 

IVewtown  Spitzenburgli  (Vandevere  of  New  York). 

' — Medium,  oblate,  roundisli;  yellow,  shaded  and  striped 
with  red,  light  bloom;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  rich, 
sprightly  vinous.  —  Early  Winter,  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  spreading,  very  ])roductive.  Succeeds  in  nearly 
all  soils,  and  valuable  for  table  or  market.  It  has  ten  or 
more  synouyms,  and  is  generally  and  popularly  known 
in  all  New  York  as  Vandervere  of  New  York.  The  name 
of  Newtown  Spitzeiiburgh  having  been  flrst  given  this 
apple  by  Coxe,  it  has  again  been  adopted. 


APPLES.  351 

Nickajack  (Winter  Eose,  etc.). — Origin  ISTortli  Caro- 
lina. Large  size,  roundish; yellowish,  stri})ed  and  shaded 
with  red;  flesh  yellowish,  moderately  tender,  juicy,  i)leas- 
ant. — Late  AVinter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright,  spreading 
grower,  forming  a  large  head,  hardy  and  productive. 
The  variety  is  extensively  grown  South  and  West,  and 
has  many  synonyms. 

Northern  Spy. — Origin  New  York,  Large,  roundish- 
oblate,  conical;  pale  yellow,  mostly  covered,  when  ex- 
posed to  the  sun,  with  stripes  of  light  and  dark  red; 
flesh  white,  fine-grained,  tender,  sub-acid,  sprightly, 
delicious. — Mid  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  rapid,  ujn-ight 
grower,  requires  good  soil,  blooms  late,  very  productive, 
but  not  an  early  bearer.  A  fruit  of  unrivalled  beauty 
and  excellence. 

Ortley  (Woolman's  Long,  etc.). — Origin  New  Jersey. 
Medium  to  large,  roundish,  oblong-conic;  greenish-yel- 
low, fine  yellow  at  maturity;  flesh  white,  fine-gramed, 
tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Mid-Winter.  Tree 
vigorous,  with  slender  shoots,  an  abundant  bearer.  The 
Ortley  has  some  thirty  synonyms,  is  a  hardy  tree,  and 
popular  South  and  West. 

Peck's  Pleasant.  —Origin  probably  Rhode  Island. 
Above  medium,  roundish,  flattened;  yellow  with  a  red 
blush  on  the  sunny  side;  flesh  yellowish,  fine-grained, 
juicy,  crisp,  tender,  aromatic  sub-acid, — Mid- Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate,  upright,  spreading  grower,  a  regular, 
even  bearer.     Very  valuable  for  market  or  table  use. 

Pewankee. — Origin  Wisconsin.  Eaised  from  seed  of 
the  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh,  by  George  P.  Pepper,  Pe- 
Avaukee,  Wis.  Medium  to  large,  roundish-oblate,  yellow, 
striped  and  splashed  with  red,  surface  covered  with  a 
grayish  bloom;  flesh  white,  somewhat  coarse,  juicy,  sub- 
acid.— Late   Winter.     Tree   vigorous  and    very   hq,rdy, 


352  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF  FKUITS. 

Esteemed  especially  in  cold  regions,  on  account  of  its 
great  hardiness. 

Phillips'  Sweet.  —  Origin  Ohio.  Above  medium, 
roundish,  flattened,  inclining  to  conic;  light  yellow, 
shaded  and  striped,  mostly  covered  with  shades  of  red; 
flesh  white,  crisp,  pleasant,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — Early  to 
late  AVinter.  Tree  a  thrifty,  upright  grower,  an  early 
and  abundant  bearer.     One  of  the  finest  of  sweet  apples. 

Plumb's  Cider. — Origin  doubtful,  but  introduced  in 
Wisconsin  by  1.  C.  Plumb.  Medium,  roundish,  sliglitly 
conic  ;  greenish-yellow,  shaded  and  splashed  with  dull 
red  ;  flesh  whitish,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early 
Winter.     Tree,  hardy  and  vigorous. 

Pomme  Grise. — Origin  probably  France.  Below  me- 
dium, roundish-oblate ;  greenish-gray,  mostly  covered 
with  russet ;  flesh  tender  and  rich. — Mid- Winter.  Tree 
a  moderate  grower,  forming  a  small  head,  and  bearing 
early.     Valued  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Pryor's  Red. — Origin  supposed  Virginia.  Medium, 
roundish-oblate ;  greenish-yellow,  shaded  with  red ; 
flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  spreading, 
requires  a  rich  soil.  Much  grown  and  valued  in  Ken- 
tucky. 

Rambo. — Origin  Delaware.  Medium  size,  flat;  yellow 
and  red;  flesh  tender,  rich,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Winter. 
Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  The  Eambo  is  an 
old,  highly  and  widely  esteemed  variety,  for  orchard  or 
garden. 

Ramsdell's  Sweet  (Exglish  Sweet,  etc.).— Origin 
unknown.  Above  medium,  oblong ;  mostly  covered 
with  red,  and  a  bloom  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  sweet, 
rich. — Early  Winter,  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  an  early 
bearer. 


APPLES.  353 

Rawle's  Jauet  (Jeniton,  etc.).— Origin  Virgiuia. 
Above  medium,  oblate-couic  ;  yellow,  striped  and 
shaded  with  red  ;  flesh  whitish-yellow,  tender,  pleasant, 
juicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  very  hardy  and 
vigorous,  blooms  late,  productive.  Largely  cultivated 
in  Missouri  and  other  parts  of  the  South-west. 

Red  Canada  (Kichfield  Nonsuch,  etc.). — Medium, 
roundish  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red  ;  flesh  ten- 
der, crisp,  Juicy,  brisk,  delicate,  mild  sub-acid. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  a  thrifty  but  slender  grower,  productive. 
A  popular  and  valuable  sort  in  all  the  Middle,  North,  and 
West  sections  ;  a  superior  fruit  for  table  or  market ;  very 
successful  and  popular  in  Michigan,  Avliere  it  is  fre- 
quently called  "Steele's  Red  Winter." 

Red  Russet. — Origin  New  Hampshire.  Large,  round- 
ish-conical ;  yellow,  shaded  with  dark  red  where  exposed 
to  the  sun,  and  with  considerable  russet  over  most  of  the 
surface ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  crisp,  with  a  rich  sub-acid 
flavor. — Late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  resembling  Bald- 
win, and  productive. 

Red  Winter  Pearniain  (Batchelor,  etc.). — Origin 
unknown.  Medium,  roundish-oblong  ;  yellowish-white, 
mostly  covered  with  maroon-red  ;  flesh  whitish-yellow, 
tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree 
a  moderate,  upright  grower,  and  good  bearer.  Tliis 
variety  has  a  dozen  or  more  synonyms,  under  some  one 
of  whicli  it  is  widely  grown  West  and  South. 

Rhode  Island  Greening. — Large,  roundish;  greenish- 
yellow;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  aromatic  acid. — Early 
Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  strong  grower,  and  very  pro- 
ductive. This  variety  is  too  well  known  to  need  a  word. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  and  valuable  in  almost  all 
the  North,  but  South  it  drops  its  iruir  loo  early. 

Ribston  Pippin. — Origin  England.  Medium,  roundish; 
greenish-yellow  and  dull  red;   flesh  yellow,  firm,  crisp. 


354  SELECT  VAKIETIES   OF   FKUITS.     , 

ric'li,  aromatic. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  spreading,  productive.  Valued  in  Maine  and 
all  Northern  sections. 

Kid^e  Pippin. — Origin  supposed  Pennsylvania.  Large, 
roundish-conical,  ribbed ;  yellow,  sprinkled  with  russet 
and  crimson  dots;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  juicy,  with  a 
mild,  somewhat  aromatic  flavor. — Late  Winter.  Tree  a 
good  grower  and  bearer.  Esteemed  for  its  good  keeping 
qualities.  Cultivated  most  in  New  Jersey  and  Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Roman  Stem. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Medium,  roundish; 
whitish-yellow,  with  a  delicate  brownish  blush;  flesh 
tender,  Juicy,  with  a  mild,  pleasant,  sub-acid  flavor. — 
Mid-Winter.  Tree  hardy  and  productive.  Succeeds  in 
the  Middle,  Southern  and  Western  States.  A  good  fruit, 
but  in  a  great  measure  superseded  by  other  sorts. 

Roxbury  Russet. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish,  flattened ;  dull  green,  covered  with 
brownish-yellow  russet ;  flesh  greenish-white,  moderately 
juicy,  sub-acid. — Late  Winter.  Tree  moderately  vigorous, 
productive.  An  old,  well-knovvu,  popular  sort,  success- 
ful in  all  New  England  and  large  portions  of  the  Middle 
and  Western  States. 

Shiawassee  Beauty. — Origin  Michigan.  Medium,  ob- 
late ;  whitish,  striped  and  splashed  with  red  ;  flesh  very 
white,  firm,  tender,  with  an  agreeable  sub-aoid  flavor. 
Early  Winter.  Kesembles  Fameuse.  Tree  not  quite  so 
good  a  growei'  in  the  nursery. 

Shockley. — Origin  Georgia.  Below  medium,  roundish, 
conical ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  red ;  flesh  crisp, 
juicy,  rich,  pleasant. — Late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  upright,  hardy,  and  very  productive.  Very 
popular  and  profitable  at  the  South. 

Smith's  €ider. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish ;  yellow,  shaded  with  red ;  flesh  whitish, 


APPLES.  355 

erisp,  tender,  ^ujcy,  pleasant,  mild,  sub-acid. — Early  to 
late  Winter.  Tree  a  ve^'y  vigorous  but  straggling  grower, 
productive.  Popular  asj  a  market-orchard  sort,  in  many 
localities;  succeeds  best  trom  Xew  Jersey  southward. 

Smokehouse. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Above  medium, 
roundish-oblate;  yellow,  idiaded  with  red;  flesh  yellowish, 
juicy,  rather  rich  sub-aeiid. — Early  Winter.  Tree  mod- 
erately vigorous,  a  good  bearer.  Esteemed  where  known 
for  market  and  cooking, 

Stevenson's  Winter, — •Origin  Mississippi.  Medium, 
roundish-oblate  ;  greenish- yellow,  shaded  with  red  ;  flesh 
whitish,  tirm,  Juicy,  with  a  pleasant  sub-acid  flavor. — • 
Late  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate  grower.  Highly  valued 
at  the  South. 

Sutton  Beauty. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish,  somewhat  inolining  to  conical ;  waxen- 
yellow  striped  with  crimson;  flesh  whitish,  crisp,  tender, 
juicy,  sul)-acid,  fine  flavored.  Mid- Winter.  Tree  a  good 
grower  and  bearer.  The  fruit  rs  very  handsome  and  keeps 
well. 

Swaar. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish  ;  yellow 
at  maturity ;  flesh  yellowish,  fine-grained,  tender,  rich, 
spicy,  aromatic,  mild  sub-acid. — Middle  to  late  Winter. 
Tree  a  moderate  grower,  good  bearer,  needs  a  deep,  dry 
soil  and  good  culture. 

Talinan's  Sweet.— Origin  IJhode  Island.  Medium, 
round  ;  yellowisli ;  flesh  white,  rather  firm,  rich,  sweet. 
— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  and  pro- 
ductive. Highly  valued  over  a  large  territory  as  a  profit- 
able orchard  sort,  for  cooking,  or  stock  purposes. 

Tewksbury  Winter  Blush.— Origin  New  Jersey.  Small, 
oblate,  roundish  ;  light  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh 
yellowish,  moderately  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Very  late 
Winter.  Tree  a  rapid,  upright  grower,  very  productive. 
An  old  sort,  valued  for  its  long-keeping  (qualities. 


356         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FEUITS.   ^■ 

Twenty-Ounce  (Cayuga  Red  Streak).— Origin  sup- 
posed Connecticut.  Very  large,  roundish;  greenish-yel- 
low, marbled  and  striped  with  purplish-red  ;  flesh  rather 
coarse,  brisk  sub-acid.— Mid-Autumn  to  early  Winter. 
Tree  an  upright,  thrifty,  compact  grower,  and  a  good 
bearer.  It  is  one  of  the  popular  market  sorts,  always 
fair  and  handsome,  excellent  for  cooking. 

Virs^inia  Greening. — Origin  supposed  Southern.  Large, 
oblate;  yellowish-green,  sparsely  covered  with  large  brown 
dots  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  with  a  pleasant  sub-acid  flavor. 
Tree  vigorous  and  productive.    Valuable  as  a  late  keeper. 

Wagener. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundish,  ob- 
late ;  yellow,  mostly  shaded  with  red ;  flesh  yellowish, 
tender,  juicy,  brisk,  slightly  vinous. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
a  thrifty,  upright  grower,  and  an  early  and  over-abundant 
bearer. 

Wealthy, — Originated  from  seed  by  Peter  M.  Gideon, 
near  St.  Paul,  Minn.  Medium,  roundish;  whitish-yellow, 
mostly  covered  with  dark  red,  smooth  and  oily;  flesh 
white,  fine-grained,  tender,  Juicy,  vinous  and  fine-flavored. 
—Mid- Winter.     Tree  exceedingly  hardy. 

Western  Beauty, — Origin  unknown.  Large  to  very 
large;  pale  yellow,  shaded  with  bright  red;  flesh  whitish- 
yellow,  coarse,  tender,  juicy,  mild  sub-acid. — Early  Win- 
ter.    Tree  very  vigorous. 

WestfieM  Seek  -  no  -  Further, — Origin  Connecticut. 
Large,  roundish-conical;  greenish-yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  dull  red;  flesh  white,  fine-grained,  tender,  rich,  sub- 
acid.— Early  to  Mid- Winter.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy, 
iipright,  spreading  grower,  very  productive. 

White  Pippin. — Large,  roundish,  oblate;  greenish,  be- 
coming pale  whitish-yellow  at  maturity,  sometimes  a  dull 
blush  cheek  in  the  sun;  fiesh  white,  tender,  juicy,  crisp, 
rich,   sub- acid. — Late  Winter.      Tree    thrifty,    upright 


appi.es.  357 

grower,  and  a  good  bearer.  Considerably  grown  in  the 
West  and  higbly  esteemed. 

White  Winter  Pearmain. — Medium  or  above,  roundish- 
oblong;  i)ale  yellow,  with  a  blush  cheek  in  sun  exposures; 
flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  pleasant  sub-acid. — Late 
Winter.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  spreading,  productive. 
Esteemed  in  some  localities  at  the  West;  little  known  East. 

Willow  Twig. — Medium,  roundish,  or  roundish-oblate; 
yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  with  dull  red;  flesh  not  very 
tender, pleasant  sub-acid.  — Very  late  Winter.  Tree  hardy, 
but  a  spreading,  ])Oor  grower  while  young,  very  produc- 
tive, and  mucli  cultivated  at  the  South-west  as  a  profita- 
ble market  sort,  on  account  of  its  keeping  and  carrying 
qualities. 

Wine  (Winter  Wine,  Hay's,  Pennsylvania  Red 
Streak). — Origin  Delaware.  Above  medium,  round,  or 
roundish  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  lively,  rich,  deep 
red;  flesh  yellowish- white,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  pleasant. 
— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  thrifty  grower,  hardy,  and 
very  productive.     Widely  successful  West  and  South. 

Winesap.. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Medium,  roundish- 
oblong,  conical;  yellow  ground,  mostly  covered  with  rich, 
dark  red  ;  flesh  yellowish,  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  rich  flavor. 
— Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  a  healthy  grower,  very 
hardy,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  Successful  and 
profitable  as  an  orchard  variety  over  a  large  portion  of 
our  country,  especially  West  and  South. 

Winter  Sweet  Paradise. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Large, 
roundish-oblate  ;  dull  green,  with  a  brownish-red  blush  ; 
flesh  white,  fine-grained,  juicy,  sweet. — Early  and  Mid- 
Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright  grower,  productive, 
but  not  an  early  bearer. 

Wolf  IJiver. — Origin  Wisconsin.  Supposed  to  be  a 
seedling  of  the  Alexander,  which  it  resembles.  Large  to 
very  large,  roundish-oblate;  pale  greenish-yellow,  shaded 


358  SELECT  VATilETJES   OF  FEUIT?. 

with  light  and  dark  red  on  the  sunny  side-  flesh  white, 
rather  coarse,  juicy,  pleasant,  mild,  sub-acid  with  a  ])c- 
culiar  si)icy  flavor. — Early  Winter.  Tree  vigorous  and 
very  hardy. 

Yellow  Bellflower. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  ob- 
long, slightly  conical;  lemon-yellow,  usually  with  a  blush 
in  sun  exposures;  flesh  breaking,  tender,  juicy,  sprightly, 
sharp  sub-acid. — Early  to  late  Winter.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  forming  a  spreading,  rather  drooping  head,  not 
an  early  but  abundant  bearer. 

Yellow  IVewtown  Pippin. — Above  medium  to  large, 
roundish-oblate;  greenish,  becoming  quite  yellow  when 
fully  ripe;  flesh  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  with  a  rich,  high 
flavor. — Late  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  recpiiring 
a  rich  soil,  when  it  is  productive  and  profitable. 

York  Imperial  (Johnson's  Fine  Wintee). — Supposed 
origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium,  oblate;  whitish,  shaded 
with  crimson;  flesh  yellowish,  firm,  crisp,  juicy,  mild 
sub-acid,  with  a  pleasant  flavor. — Mid- Winter.  Tree 
moderately  vigorous,  productive.  Very  popular  in  South- 
ern Pennsylvania. 

CLASS  IV. — APPLES  FOR  OENAMENT  OR  PRESERVING. 

The  Siberian  Crabs  are  beautiful  little  fruits,  varying 
in  size  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter. 
They  are  much  esteemed  for  preserving,  and  as  orna- 
mental trees,  Avhether  in  blossom  or  loaded  with  theii 
brilliantly-colored  fruit,  they  merit  a  place  in  the  smallest 
garden.  In  extensive  grounds  they  may  be  jilanted  in 
groups,  producing  a  fine  effect. 

Briers  Sweet. — Origin  Wisconsin.  Said  to  be  the  re- 
sult of  crossing  the  Siberian  Crab  with  the  Bailey  apple. 
Large  as  Transcendent;  pale  yellow,  splashed  with  car- 
mine; flesh,  yellowish,  crisp,  juicy,  sweet  and  rich.— 
Early  Aatumu. 


t.ppLES.  359 

Cherry  Crab. — Small,  roundisli,  pointed;  light  yellow, 
shaded  with  red;  flesh  crisp,  pleasant;  hangs  long  on  the 
tree. — Early  Antnmn.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy  grower, 
makes  a  liandsome,  round  head. 

Chicago. — Origin  Illinois.  Small,  oblong ;  yellow 
ground  Avith  bright  cheek;  flesh  yellow,  crisp,  sprightly, 
sub-acid. — Mid- Winter.     Tree  a  vigorous  grower. 

Coral. — Origin  Illinois.  Small,  conical;  yellow  with 
vermilion;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  juicy,  rich,  mild  sub- 
acid.— Early  Winter.     Tree  very  vigorous. 

Currant. — An  ornamental  variety,  producing  fruit  the 
size  of  currants,  and  borne  in  clusters. 

Dartmouth. — Origin  New  Hampshire.  Medium  to 
large;  dark  crimson  and  orange,  with  bloom;  fine  for 
cooking,  preserves,  or  for  cider. 

Hyslop. — Large,  for  a  crab,  roundish-egg-shai)ed;  dark, 
rich  red,  with  a  thick  blue  bloom;  flesh  yellowish;  fine 
for  cooking  or  cider;  bears  in  clusters.  Tree  a  strong, 
spreading  grower. 

Lady  Crab.— Small,  roundish,  flattened;  rich  dark  red, 
with  some  russet;  flesh  yellowish,  mild  sub-acid.  Tree  a 
vigorous,  very  npright  grower.  A  foreign  variety  of 
great  beauty. 

Lady  Elffin. — Origin  Illinois.  Large  for  a  Siberian, 
roundish-oblate ;  skin  Avhitish-yellow,  overspread  with 
bright  red;  flesh  white,  fiue,  tender,  juicy,  with  a  mild 
pleasant  sub-acid  flavor. — Early  to  late  Autumn.  Said 
to  be  excellent  for  canning. 

Lake  Winter,— Origin  Wisconsin.  Described  as  me- 
dium to  large,  round,  smooth;  pale  yellow,  mostly  cov- 
ered with  bright  blush;  flesh  fine-grained,  firm,  juicy, 
sub-acid. — October  to  March.  Tree  a  free  grower  and 
early  bearer. 

Largfc  Red  Siberian  Crab.— Nearly  twice  the  size  of 


860  SELECT  VARIETIES  OE  FRUITS. 

the  common  Siberiau  crab;  yellow,  shaded  on  the  sunny 
side,  with  bright  red.  Tree  very  vigorous,  forming  a 
large  head.     Valued  for  preserving. 

Lar^e  Yellow  Siberian  €rab. — Eesembles  the  fore- 
going except  in  the  shape  of  its  fruit,  which  is  more  oval, 
and  the  color  a  light,  clear  yellow. 

lYIaren^o. — Origin  Illinois.  Large,  roundish;  yellow 
ground  covered  with  bright  warm  red;  flesh  yellowish- 
white,  crisp,  juicy,  with  a  mild  sub-acid  flavor. — Early 
to  late  Winter. 

Itloiltreal  Beauty. — Large,  roundish,  flattened;  bright 
yellow,  mostly  covered  with  clear,  bright,  rich  red. 

Oblong  Siberian  Crab. — Medium  size,  oblong  in  form; 
beautifully  shaded  with  rich  crimson;  thin  bloom. 

Red  Siberian  Crab. — Small,  roundish  ;  bright  lively 
scarlet,  over  a  close  yellow  ground,  light  bloom;  an  old, 
well-known  sort. 

Sylvan  Sweet, — Origin  Wisconsin.  Large,  roundish- 
oblate;  light  yellow,  nearly  covered  with  bright  red;  flesh 
yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  mild,  pleasant,  sweet. — Mid- 
Summer. 

Transcendent. — Large,  roundish-oblong,  slightly  flat- 
tened; golden-yellow,  with  a  crimson  cheek  in  the  sun, 
white  bloom,  often  the  red  nearly  covers  the  entire  sur- 
face. Tree  a  strong,  rapid  grower  and  abundant  bearer. 
It  is  highly  prized  in  some  sections  as  a  table  fruit  in 
autumn. 

Van  Wyck. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish, 
slightly  conic ;  whitish,  shaded  with  bright  red,  and 
covered  with  bloom;  flesh  whitish,  moderately  juicy, 
sweet,  rich. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  free,  upright  grower. 

Whitney. — Origin  Illinois.  Large;  skin  glossy-green, 
splashed  with  carmine;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  with  a  mild. 


APPLES.  361 

pleasant  flavor. — Early    Autumn.      Tree    a    handsome 
grower,  with  dark  green,  glossy  foliage,  and  very  prolific. 

Yellow  Siberian  Crab.— The  fruit  of  this  is  a  trifle 
larger  than  Red  ^Siberian,  and  is  of  a  fine,  clear  yellow 
color. 

In  addition  to  tlie  above  there  are  several  other  varie- 
ties, chiefly  originated  at  the  West,  but  they  are  not  well 
enough  known  to  go  on  the  list. 

SELECT   LIST   OF   APPLES. 

The  following  varieties  are  recommended  for  the  East- 
ern and  Middle  States. 

Summer. — Early  Harvest,  Early  Strawberry,  Golden 
Sweet,  Large  Yellow  Bough,  Primate,  Red  Astrachan, 
Williams'  Favorite. 

Aiitumn. — Chenango  Strawberry,  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burgh,  Fall  Pippin,  Gravenstein,  Hawthornden,  Jefferis, 
Jersey  Sweet,  Keswick  Codlin,  Lowell,  Lyman's  Pump- 
kin Sweet,  Porter,  St.  Lawrence,  Stump. 

Winter. — Baldwin,  Esopus  Spitzenburgh,  Fameuse, 
Golden  Russet  of  Western  New  York,  Hubbardston  Non- 
such, Jonathan,  King  of  Tompkins  County,  Lady  Apple, 
Monmouth  Pippin,  Mother,  Northern  Spy,  Peck's  Pleas- 
ant, Pomme  Grise,  Red  Canada,  Rhode  Island  Greening, 
Roxbury  Russet,  Sutton  Beauty,  Talman's  Sweet, 
Twenty-Ounce,  Wagencr,  Yellow-Bellflower. 

For  the  West  and  South: 

Nearly  all  the  summer  and  fall  varieties  of  the  East- 
ern and  Middle  States  succeed  well  at  the  West  and 
South.  The  winter  varieties  specially  adapted  to  those 
regions  are  so  designated  in  the  previous  lists.  In  Cal- 
ifornia and  Oregon  our  best  Northern  sorts  generally 
succeed,  but  the  winter  varieties  of  the  South  will  be 
li 


362         SELECT  TARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

better  adapted  to  the  warmer  districts  of  California,  than 
our  Northern  winter  sorts. 

CHOICE    GARDE]^'   VARIETIES. 

Red  Astraehan,  Early  Strawberry,  Early  Joe,  Keswick 
Codlin  (cooking),  Summer  Rose,  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh, 
Fall  Pippin,  Gravenstein,  Garden  Royal,  Dyer,  Fumouse, 
Jonathan,  Lady  Apple,  Melon,  Northern  Spy,  Pomme 
Grise,  Red  Canada,  Swaar,Esopus  Spitzenburgh,Wagener. 

TWENTY  VERT  LARGE  AND  BEAUTIFUL  SORTS  FOR  DWARFS. 

Red  Astraehan,  Large  Sweet  Bough,  Primate,  Beauty 
of  Kent,  Alexander,  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh,  Fall  Pijipin, 
Williams'  Favorite,  Gravenstein,  Hawtliornden,  Maiden's 
Blush, Porter,  Menagere,  Red  Bietigheimer,  Bailey  ^weet, 
Canada  Reinette,  Northern  Spy,  Mother,  King  of  Tousp- 
kins  County,  Twenty-Ounce,  Wagener. 

Section  2. — Select  Pears. 

CLASS  I. — summer  pears. 

Andre  Desportes. — Origin  France.  Medium,  obovate, 
obtuse-pyriform;  pale  green,  marbled  on  the  sunny  side 
with  red;  flesh  white,  fine,  juicy,  melting. — Early  Sum- 
mer, Tree  a  good  grower  as  a  standard  or  dwarf,  and 
productive.  A  valuable  addition  to  the  list  of  early 
pears. 

Bartlett  (Williams'  Bonchrktien,  etc.). — Origin 
England.  Large,  obtuse-pyriform;  bright,  clear  yellow 
when  fully  ripe,  sometimes  a  little  russet;  flesh  white, 
buttery,  juicy,  musky  perfume. — Late  Summer.  Tree 
an  upright,  thrifty,  healthy  grower,  very  productive.  The 
Bartlett  is  one  of  the  few  good  pears  that  succeed  every- 


PEARS.  36S 

■wlicrc;  it  has  no  competitor  as  a  summer  market  fruit: 
bears  early  as  a  standard. 

Beurr^  (liiflard. — Origin  France.  Medium,  pyriform; 
greenish-yellow,  with  considerable  red  in  the  sun;  flesh 
white,  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  i)erfumed. — Early  Summer. 
Tree  a  slender  grower,  healthy,  hardy,  very  productive. 
A  beautiful  fruit  and  the  best  of  its  season;  should  be 
gathered  early. 

Bloods^ood. — Origin  Long  Island.  Medium,  turbinate, 
fleshy  at  base  of  stalk;  skin  yellow,  with  russet  dots 
and  network  markings;  flesli  yellowish-white,  buttery, 
melting,  sugary,  very  aromatic. — Mid-Summer,  Tree 
is  hardy,  with  close,  firm,  short-jointed  wood,  an  early 
and  abundant  bearer.  A  delicions  pear,  but  not  at- 
tractive for  market. 

Braiulywine. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium,  pyri- 
form;  dull  yellowish-green,  slightly  russeted,  and  ablush 
cheek  on  the  sunny  side;  flesh  white,  juicy,  melting, 
vinous,  aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  an  upright, 
vigorous  grower,  with  rich  glossy  foliage  and  very  pro- 
ductive. 

Clapp's  Favorite. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Large,  obo- 
vate;  pale  yellow,  marbled  and  sjilashed  with  red  and 
light  brown;  flesh  white,  fine-grained,  juicy,  melting, 
buttery,  rich,  vinous,  perfumed,  sweet. — Ripens  about 
ten  days  before  the  Bartlett.  Tree  an  ui^right,  spi-eading, 
open  grower,  bearing  its  fruit  evenly  distributed,  very 
productive.  Supposed  to  be  a  cross  between  Flemish 
Beauty  and  Bartlett;  the  tree  resembles  the  former,  the 
fruit  the  hitter. 

Dcarbonrs  Seodljiij!:.— Origin  Massachusetts.  Below 
medium,  roundish-oval;  skin  smooth,  light  yellow,  or 
straw-eolor;  flesh  white,  very  juicy,  sweet,  melting, 
sprightly. — Late  Summer.     Tree  a  fine  grower,  an  early 


364  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

and  profuse  bearer.  The  tree  is  quite  hardy  and  succeeds 
in  ahnost  all  localities.     Very  fine  for  the  dessert. 

Doyenne  d'Et^  (Summer  DoYENxi;).— Origin  Bel- 
gium. Small,  roundish;  fine  yellow,  often  with  a  bright 
red  cheek  in  the  sun;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  sweet, 
pleasant. — Early  Summer.  Tree  an  upright,  vigorous 
grower,  and  early  and  abundant  bearer;  this  is  the  first  to 
ripen  of  the  really  good  pears. 

Duchesse  de  Berry  d'Et^. — Origin  France.  Small, 
roundish,  slightly  pyriform;  yellow,  shaded  with  light 
red,  more  or  less  russet,  and  often  a  red  cheek;  flesh 
juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  fine, 
vigorous  grower,  and  a  good  bearer.  An  excellent  and 
beautiful  fruit,  not  extensively  cultivated. 

Madeleine  (Citron  des  Carmes).  — Origin  France. 
Medium,  obovate-pyriform;  bright  yellow,  with  a  red 
cheek;  flesh  white,  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  aromatic. — 
Early  Summer.  Tree  a  good  grower,  forming  a  fine,  up- 
right head,  productive.  A  very  old  and  excellent  sort, 
not  so  much  planted  as  formerly,  owing  to  the  introduction 
of  new  varieties. 

Maiining^'s  Elizabeth. — Origin  Belgium.  Below  me- 
dium, obtuse-pyrii'orm;  bright  yellow,  with  a  lively  red 
cheek;  flesh  white,  juicy,  very  melting,  sugary,  spright- 
ly, aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  moderate  grower, 
an  even,  regular  bearer.  The  small  size,  beauty,  and  ex- 
cellent quality  of  this  variety  recommend  it  to  all  ama- 
teurs. 

Osband's  Summer  (Summer  Virgalteu). — Origin  New 
York.  Medium,  obtuse-pyriform;  yellow,  dotted  with 
green  and  brown  dots,  thin  russet,  red  cheek  in  the  sun. 
— Mid-Summer.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  upright,  an 
early  and  abundant  bearer. 

Petite  Marguerite. — Origin  France.  Medium,  obovate; 
greenish-yellow  with  brownish-red  cheek  and  covered 


PEAES.  365 

with  greenisli  dots ;  flesh  fine,  buttery,  melting,  juicy, 
vinous  and  very  agreeable. — Mid-Summer.  Tree  vigor- 
ous and  an  early  and  abundant  bearer.  Succeeds  admir- 
ably as  a  standard  or  dwarf.     Best  pear  of  its  season. 

Rostiezert — Origin  Germany.  Medium  or  below,  ob- 
long-pyriform  ;  dull  yellowish,  mixed  with  reddish-brown; 
flesh  juicy,  sliglitly  buttery,  melting,  sugary,  vinous, 
aromatic,  perfumed. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  ra2:>id,  vigor- 
ous, but  straggling  grower,  requiring  severe  pruning 
while  young  to  form  a  good  head  ;  bears  early  and  abun- 
dantly. A  pear  of  fine  quality,  but  not  attractive  for 
market. 

Souvenir  du  Congres. — Origin  France.  Large  to  very 
large,  in  form  resembling  the  Bartlett ;  usually  growing 
in  clusters  ;  bright  yellow  when  fully  matured,  with  the 
parts  exposed  to  tbe  sun  brilliant  red  or  carmine  ;  flesh 
like  that  of  the  Bartlett  but  much  less  musky. — It  com- 
mences to  ripen  in  August  a  little  before  the  Bart- 
lett, and  extends  into  September.  Growth  moderate.  It 
is  recommended  to  double  work  it  on  strong  growing 
varieties  to  obtain  the  best  results. — This  noble  fruit,  the 
largest  fine  pear  in  cultivation,  is  worthy  of  extra  care 
and  attention  from  the  amateur  as  well  as  the  orcbardist. 

Tyson. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Medium;  clear  yellow, 
with  a  bright,  red  clieek  ;  flesh  juicy,  very  sweet,  melt- 
ing, slightly  aromatic. — Late  Summer.  Tree  a  vigorous, 
upright  grower,  not  an  early  bearer,  but  A'ery  productive; 
a  variety  of  great  excellence  both  in  tree  and  fruit. 

CLASS   II. — AUTUMN  PEARS. 

Ananas  d'Et^, — Origin  Holland.  Above  medium,  pyri- 
form,  sometimes  obtuse ;  yellow,  with  brown  russet  in 
the  sun ;  flesb  fine-grained,  butter}^  melting,  sweet,  per- 
fumed.— Early  Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  an  early  and 
profuse  bearer. 


366  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Baronnc  de  Mcllo. — Origin  Belgium.  Medium,  yary- 
ing  ill  form,  often  roundish  or  acute-pyriform;  yellowish, 
nearly  covered  with  brown  russet ;  flesh  whitish,  a  little 
coarse,  juicy,  melting,  vinous  sub-acid. — Mid-Autumn. 
Tree  productive,  hardy,  and  a  vigorous  grower. 

Belle  Lucrative  (Fond ante  d'Automne). — Medium, 
form  variable,  generally  roundish,  obtuse-pyriform  ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  delicious. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  healthy,  hardy,  and  productive. 

Beurr^  d'Anjou  (Ne  Plus  Meueis  of  the  French).— 
Origin  Belgium.  Large,  short  or  blunt-pyriform ;  skin 
greenish-yellow,  with  traces  of  russet,  dull  crimson  dots 
and  sometimes  a  shade  of  crimson  in  the  sun;  flesh  whit- 
ish, melting,  juicy,  brisk,  vinous,  perfumed,  pleasant. — 
Late  Autumn  to  early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  healthy 
grower,  making  an  open,  round-head,  that  bears  its  fruit 
evenly  distributed  and  of  uniform  size.  One  of  the  most 
profitable  varieties  for  orchard  or  garden  ;  generally  re- 
garded as  one  of  the  most  valuable  pears  grown,  succeed- 
ing everywhere. 

Beiirr^  Bosc. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  pyriform,  or 
long-pyriform  ;  dark  yellow,  often  much  covered  with 
dull  cinnamon  russet,  in  dots  or  streaks,  occasionally  a 
tinge  of  red;  flesh  white,  very  buttery,  melting,  rich,  and 
deliciously  perfumed. — Mid- Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy, 
good  grower,  but  often  irregular  ;  not  an  early  but  an 
abundant  bearer,  producing  its  fruit  singly,  and  evenly 
distributed  on  the  tree.  A  valuable  orchard  variety,  of 
splendid  a})pearance  and  finost  quality. 

Beiirr^  de  Bri^nais  (Des  Nonnes,  etc.).— Medium, 
roundish,  flattened  ;  greenish,  with  many  dots ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  with  a  brisk,  high  perfumed  flavor. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous  grower,  pro- 
ductive. 

Beurr^  Clairgeail»— Origin  France.    Large,  pyriform; 


PEARS.  3G7 

yellow,  shaded  with  orange  and  crimson,  much  dotted 
and  sprinkled  with  russet;  flesh  yellowish,  Juicy,  buttery, 
a  little  granular,  sweet,  vinous,  perfumed. — Late  Autumn 
to  early  Winter.  Tree  very  vigorous,  with  erect  habit 
and  fine  foliage,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer,  and,  al- 
though a  little  variable  in  quality,  its  size,  beauty,  and 
productiveness  make  it  a  very  profitable  market  variety. 
In  some  cases  it  seems  disi3osed  to  shed  its  leaves  prema- 
turely— a  serious  defect. 

Bcurr^  Diel. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  obtuse-pyri- 
form;  skin  rather  rough,  rich  yellow  when  fully  and  well 
ripened,  some  russet;  flesh  yellowish-white,  a  little  coarse- 
gi-ained,  buttery,  sugary,  half-melting,  delicious. — Late 
Autumn.  Tree  very  vigorous,  and  an  abundant  bearer; 
on  young  trees  the  fruit  is  sometimes  not  first-rate,  but 
with  age  it  assumes  its  true  character,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  profitable  market  sorts.  In  Western  New  York  and 
some  other  localities,  it  has  suffered  in  some  seasons  from 
the  black  rust  on  the  fruit,  and  blighting  or  ''scalding" 
of  the  foliage. 

Beiirr^  Hardy.  —  Large,  obtuse-pyriform  ;  greenish, 
covered  with  light  russet,  and  shaded  one  side  with 
brownish-red;  flesh  melting,  buttery.  Juicy,  brisk,  vinous, 
slightly  astringent,  perfumed. — Early  Autumn.  Tree  a 
strong  grower,  with  erect  hal:)it  and  ample  foliage,  very 
productive.  A  beautiful  and  delicious  fruit,  worthy  of 
more  general  cultivation. 

Beurr^  Superfin.— Origin  France.  Medium,  roundish- 
pyriform;  yellow,  with  bright  red  in  the  sun,  and  some 
russet;  flesh  buttery,  very  Juicy,  melting,  vinous,  sub- 
acid.— Mid-Autumn.  Tree  hardy,  a  moderately  vigorous 
grower,  not  an  early  but  a  good  bearer  when  at  maturity. 
In  quality  it  is  among  the  best. 

Bonne  du  PuitS  Ansaillt.— Origin  France.  Medium, 
fouudish-obovate  ;  greenish-yellow,  mostly  covered  with 


308         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

light  russet ;  flesh  ^vhite,  fine,  juicy,  melting,  vinous,  rich, 
delicious. — Early  Autumn.  The  tree  being  a  poor  grower 
it  must  be  top-grafted  upon  a  vigorous  sort.  Grown  in 
this  way,  it  bears  early  and  abundantly.  A  most  impor- 
tant acquisition  for  the  amateur. 

Buffum. — Origin  Khode  Island.  Medium,  obovate-ob- 
long  ;  deep  yellow,  when  fully  ripe,  with  red  covering 
nearly  one  side,  sometimes  a  little  russet ;  flesh  white, 
sweet,  moderately  juicy,  buttery,  pleasant. — Early  Au- 
tumn. Tree  a  strong,  upright  grower,  forming  a  beauti- 
ful, compact  head,  a  regular  and  productive  bearer,  hardy, 
and  valuable  for  the  orchard.  Tree  remarkable  for  its 
symmetrical  and  vigorous  growth. 

Doctor  Recder. — Origin  New  York.  Small  to  medium, 
roundish,  slightly  pyriform  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with 
nettings  of  russet  and  russet  dots  ;  flesh  fine,  melting, 
juicy,  buttery,  sugary,  vinous,  slightly  musky. — Late 
Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  hardy,  vigorous,  open,  spread- 
ing grower,  productive.  A  delicious  fruit,  valuable  for 
the  amateur  ;  not  large  nor  showy  enough  for  market. 

Doyenne  Boussock(BEURRf:  Boussock,  etc.).— Origin 
Belgium.  Large,  varying  in  form,  usually  roundish,  or 
obtuse-pyriform ;  deep  yellow,  clouded  with  russet, 
bronzed  red  cheek  in  the  sun. — Early  Autumn.  Tree 
very  vigorous,  upright,  spreading ;  an  early,  abundant 
bearer  ;  profitable  for  market. 

Doyenn^  dii  Cornice. — Origin  France.  Large,  broad, 
obtuse-pyriform  ;  greenish- yellow,  clear  yellow  at  ma- 
turity, some  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  sweet, 
rich,  slightly  aromatic. — Late  Autumn.  Tree  moderately 
vigorous,  upright ;  requires  time  to  be  productive. 

Doyenn^  Gray. — Medium,  obovate  ;  dull  yellow,  mostly 
covered  with  smooth  cinnamon  russet ;  flesh  very  buttery, 
fine-grained,  rich,  delicious. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  mod- 
eratC;  healthy  grower,  a  good  bearer ;   very  valuable  for 


PEAKS.  369 

orchard  or  garden  ;  hy  many  esteemed  superior  to  White 
Doyeuue.  lii  some  localities,  as  iu  Western  New  York, 
both  these  varieties  are  often  rendered  worthless  by  black 
rust  and  cracking. 

Doyenn^  White  (Butter  Pear,  Virgalieu,  and  thirty 
other  synonyms.) — Medium  to  large,  obovate  ;  when  fully 
ripe,  pale  yellow,  often  witli  a  fine,  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white, 
fine-grained,  melting,  very  buttery,  rich,  delicious. — Early 
to  late  Autumn.  Tree  a  healthy,  vigorous  grower,  hardy, 
l)roductive  ;  unreliable  at  the  East  and  in  Western  New 
York,  but  in  the  new,  rich  soils  of  the  West,  one  of  the 
best.  Twenty  years  ago  this  was  regarded  as  the  best  of 
all  pears  ;  now  it  is  an  outcast  in  many  localities. 

Duchesse  d'Angoiilcine. — Origin  France.  Large  to 
very  large,  oblong-obovate  ;  dull  greenisli-yellow,  with 
more  or  less  of  russet  spots  and  streaks  ;  flesh  white,  but- 
tery, juicy,  excellent. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree  a  very  vig- 
orous grower,  the  most  successful  on  the  quince,  j^roduc- 
tivc  and  very  profitable.  Is  now  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  valuable  varieties  cultivated  ;  it  is  next  to  Bartlett 
in  popularity  among  the  market-growers  all  over  the 
country. 

Duchesse  Precoce. — Origin  France.  Large,  pyra- 
midal ;  greenish-yellow,  becoming  clear  yellow ;  flesh 
melting,  very  Juicy,  sprightly  though  not  rich. — Early 
Autumn.  Tree  vigorous  and  prolific.  A  good  early 
market  pear. 

Einile  d'Heyst. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  oblong- pyri- 
form ;  clear  yellow,  with  a  brownish  cheek  in  the  sun, 
netted  and  patched  with  russet ;  flesh  yellowish-white, 
juicy,  fine-grained,  melting,  sweet,  aromatic,  excellent. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  spreading  grower,  hold- 
ing its  foliage  late  in  autumn,  very  productive ;  taking 
rank  as  a  valuable  early  winter  sort. 

Flemish   Beauty  (Belle  de  Flandres,  and  twenty 


370  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

more  synonyms). — Large,  roundisli-jjyriform  ;  yellow, 
mostly  covered  with  marblings  and  patches  of  light  rus- 
set, brownish-red  in  the  sun  ;  Hesh  yellowish-white,  juicy, 
melting,  sweet,  rich,  slightly  musky. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  an  early  and  abundant  bearer,  and 
highly  valued  West  for  orchard  or  garden  ;  sometimes 
seriously  attacked  with  black  fungus  or  rust,  and  crack- 
ing in  New  York  and  the  Eastern  States. 

Frederick  €lapp. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Above  me- 
dium, obovate ;  lemon-yellow ;  flesh  fine-grained,  very 
juicy,  melting,  flavor  sprightly,  acidulous,  rich  and  aro- 
matic.— Late  Autumn.  Tree  of  vigorous  habit,  somewhat 
spiny.  A  very  promising  new  variety.  Pronounced  by 
the  committee  of  the  Mass.  Horticultural  Society  superior 
to  Buerre  Superfin. 

Fulton. — Origin  Maine.  Below  medium,  roundish, 
flattened  ;  gray-russet,  becoming  at  maturity  dark  cinna- 
mon-russet ;  flesh  moderately  juicy,  half-buttery,  spright- 
ly, agreeable. — Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate 
but  healthy  grower,  hardy  and  jH-oductive.  Valuable  for 
the  orchard. 

Hoosic. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Large,  obovate,  hav- 
ing considerable  exterior  resemblance  to  Beurre  Diel  ; 
greenish-yellow,  dotted  and  marbled  with  russet ;  flesh 
fine-grained,  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich  almond  flavor. — ■ 
Mid-Autumn.  Tree  erect,  vigorous,  very  hardy  and  re- 
markably prolific.  A  new  variety  which  merits  the  at- 
tention of  amateurs,  at  least. 

Howell. — Origin  Connecticut.  Eather  large,  round- 
ish-pyriform  ;  light  yellow,  with  a  clear,  red  cheek ; 
flesh  whitish,  juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Early  and  Mid- 
Autumn.  Tree  an  upright,  vigorous  grower,  an  early 
and  abundant  bearer.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  and  ex- 
cellent of  pears,  and  promising  to  be  of  great  value  over 


PEARS.  371 

a  large  extent  of  country  ;  beginning  to  be  much  planted 
for  market.     The  fruit  bears  carriage  well. 

Jones  (Jones's  Seedling).— Origin  Pennsylvania. 
Medium  or  below,  roundish-pyriform  ;  yellow,  shaded 
with  russet,  briglit  cinnamon-russet  in  the  sun  ;  flesh 
rather  coarse,  granular,  buttery,  sugary,  vinous. — Late 
Autumn  to  early  Winter.  Tree  a  vigorous,  upright 
grower,  and  very  productive.  A  fine  little  pear  for  the 
amateur's  collection  and  valuable  for  tlie  orcliardist. 

Kieffer  (Kieffer's  Hybrid).— Origin  Pennsylvania. 
Eaised  from  seed  of  the  Chinese  Sand  Pear  accident- 
ally crossed  with  Bartlett  or  some  other  kind.  Medium 
to  large,  oval-pyriform ;  rich  golden-yellow,  sprinkled 
thickly  with  small  dots,  often  tinged  with  red  on  the 
sunny  side  ;  flesh  slightly  coarse,  juicy,  melting,  with  a 
pronounced  quince  flavor  ;  as  grown  by  us  will  scarcely 
rank  as  ' '  good "  ;  said  to  be  particularly  valuable  for 
canmng.  Ripe  in  October,  but  will  keep  for  some  time. 
Tree  very  vigorous,  witli  handsome,  shining  foliage,  and 
a  good  bearer.  The  value  of  this  pear  for  market  has 
not  yet  been  determined.  The  quality  of  the  fruit  does 
not  rank  high  enough  to  make  it  a  popular  variety  with 
the  amateur. 

Kirtland. — Origin  Ohio.  Medium,  roundish-obovate  ; 
rich  yellow,  much  covered  witli  ciunamon-russet,  and 
red  on  the  sunny  side  ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  aro- 
matic.— Early  Autumn.  Tree  moderately  vigorous, 
stocky,  healthy,  and  productive. 

Le  €onte  (Chinese  Pear). — Supposed  to  be  a  hybrid 
between  the  old  Chinese  Sand  Pear  and  a  cultivated  va- 
riety. Large,  pyriform;  skin  yellow;  of  medium  quality. 
— Mid-Summer.  Tree  remarkably  vigorous  and  prolific. 
Highly  valued  and  extensively  cultivated  at  the  South, 
as  it  succeeds  where  the  European  and  American  sorts 


37^  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

entirely  fuil.  In  Georgia  it  is  i^ropagated  from  cuttings. 
Not  regarded  as  of  any  value  at  the  North. 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey. — Origin  France.  Large, 
lotig-pyriforiu  ;  greeuish-yellow,  mostly  overspread  with 
brownish-red,  and  a  red  cheek  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  melting, 
very  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  excellent. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  a  rapid,  upright  groAver,  and  abundant  bearer  ;  one 
of  the  very  best  on  quince.  A  profitable  market  pear 
where  it  succeeds. 

Merriam. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium,  round- 
ish ;  dull  yellow,  with  more  or  less  of  russet ;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, rather  coarse,  melting,  juicy,  slightly  vinous, 
musky. — Mid- Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  very  produc- 
tive. An  exceedingly  profitable  orchard  sort,  but  little 
grown  out  of  Massachusetts. 

Mar^chal  de  la  €our  (Conseiller  de  la  Cour,  etc.). 
— Origin  Belgium.  Medium  to  large,  pyriform;  green- 
ish-yellow, with  more  or  less  russet  ;  flesh  yellowish- 
Avhite,  melting,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Mid- 
Autumn.  Tree  moderately  vigorous,  holds  its  foliage 
late  in  the  season,  a  good  bearer. 

Onondai^a  (Swan's  OrantxE). — This  pear  was  first 
introduced  by  the  late  General  Swan,  of  Eochester, 
N.  Y.,  under  the  name  of  "Swan's  Orange,"  from 
CHnton,  N.  Y.,  but  it  was  supposed  to  be  traced  to  Con- 
necticut. Fruit  large,  obtuse-pyriform,  surface  rather 
uneven;  skin  orange-yellow  at  maturity,  with  traces  of 
russet  in  some  localities,  rarely  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  melt- 
ing, rather  coarse,  juicy,  vinous,  sometimes  slightly  as- 
tringent, a  little  variable  but  generally  excellent.  Tree 
a  strong  grower,  hardy,  and  very  productive. 

Paradise  dMutomne. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  long- 
pyriform  ;  yellow,  mostly  covered  with  cinnamon-russet ; 
flesh  often  slightly  granular,  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich, 
vinous,  aromatic  flavor. — Early  to  Mid- Autumn.    Tree  a 


PEAKS.  373 

vigorous,  rather  irroguliir  grower,  an  early,  good  bearer  ; 
fine  for  the  garden,  not  suited  to  the  orchard. 

Pitniaston  Duchess. — Origin  Enghmd.  Very  hirge, 
oblong-obovate ;  beautiful  golden  yellow  ;  flesh  yellow- 
ish-white, melting,  buttery,  juicy  and  of  excellent  qual- 
ity.— Mid-Autumn.  Tree  vigorous,  productive.  Will 
make  a  fine  market  fruit. 

Pratt. — Origin  Ehode  Island.  Medium,  roundish-py- 
riform  ;  greenish  lemon-yellow,  shaded  with  red  in  the 
sun ;  flesh  juicy,  sugary,  melting,  briskly  vinous. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  an  upright  grower,  very  pro- 
ductive. 

Seckel. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Small,  roundish-ovate; 
dull  yellowish-brown,  with  a  russet-red  cheek;  flesh  but- 
tery, very  juicy,  rich,  spicy,  aromatic. — Early  Autumn. 
Tree  a  slow  but  healthy,  hardy  grower,  upright,  forming 
a  small,  compact  head;  successful  and  well  known  every- 
where. Although  it  takes  a  little  more  time  to  bring 
this  variety  into  profitable  bearing  condition,  yet  it  is  a 
reliable  and  permanently  valuable  sort  for  orchard  or 
garden. 

Sheldon. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundisli  ; 
greenish-yellow,  a  thin,  light  russet  and  a  bright  red  or 
crimson  in  the  sun;  flesh  very  juicy,  melting,  vinous, 
sweet,  aromatic.  Tree  hardy,  a  vigorous,  upright  grower, 
forming  a  liandsome,  round  head,  a  good  bearer.  This 
noble  fruit,  like  some  other  varieties,  is  often  condemned 
as  rotting  at  the  core,  but  it  only  requires  to  be  gathered 
early  and  used  when  ripe,  like  Flemish  Beauty,  Clapp'e 
Favorite,  Beurre  Giffard,  and  others. 

Stevens'  Genesee. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  round- 
ish; 3^ellow;  flesh  half-buttery,  rich,  aromatic  flavor. — 
Early  Autumn.  Tree  a  healtliy,  good  grower,  and  pro- 
ductive. It  is  not  so  popular  as  formerly  in  Western 
New  York,  but  West,  and  especially  in  light  soils,  it  is 


374  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  FRUITS. 

one  of  the  profitable  sorts;  needs  to  be  gathered  early  and 
'ised  as  soou  as  ripe. 

Urbauistc  (Beurrk  Picquery,  etc.). — Medium  to 
large,  roundish-i)ynforni;  pale  yellow,  with  some  russet; 
flesh  very  melting,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  and  delicately 
•lerfumed. — Early  and  Mid- Autumn.  Tree  a  moderate, 
vigorous,  compact,  pyramidal  grower,  very  hardy,  not  an 
curly  bearer,  but  an  abundant  one  at  maturity.  Very 
valuable  and  profitable  foV  the  orchard. 

Wasliin^toii. — Origin  Delaware.  Medium,  oval;  clear, 
Jdmon-yeliow,  with  some  red  in  the  sun  and  reddish  dots; 
flesh  very  juicy,  sweet,  melting,  agreeable. — Early  Au- 
tumn, 'i'ree  a  slender  but  healthy  and  vigorous  grower, 
and  a  good  bearer.  This  is  one  of  our  native  pears  that 
iias  been  too  much  overlooked;  a  very  beautiful  and  ex- 
<;ellent  variety  for  the  amateur's  collection. 

CLASS   III. — WINTER   PEARS. 

Belle  Epine  Dumas  (Due  de  Bordeaux). — Medium, 
obtuse-pyriform;  greenish-yellow,  with  russet  dots;  flesh 
white,  half-melting,  buttery,  juicy,  sweet. — Early  Winter. 
Tree  a  vigorous,  fine  grower,  and  a  good  bearer. 

Beurr^  Easter  (Doyenne  d'Hiver,  and  a  dozen  or 
more  other  synonyms). — Large,  roundish-oval;  yellowish, 
more  or  less  of  russet  in  dots,  which  sometimes  gives  it  a 
brownish  cheek;  flesh  fine-grained,  very  buttery,  melting 
and  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. — Very  late  Winter;  we  have 
often  kept  it  until  April.  The  tree  is  a  moderate  grower, 
makir.g  a  compact,  upright,  round  head,  bearing  abun- 
dantly. It  is  one  of  the  best  sorts  for  the  South  and 
South-west,  but  requires  a  warm  exposure  when  grown 
North  and  East,  Everywhere  it  requires  good,  rich  soil, 
good  culture,  and  careful  thinning  of  the  fruit  to  bring 
it  to  perfection. 


PEARS.  375 

Beiirr^  Gris  d'Hiver  IVoiiveaii. — Medium  to  large, 
roundish,  obtuse;  rich,  yellow-russet,  with  a  tine,  sunny- 
cheek  of  dark  red;  flesh  slightly  granular,  buttery,  melt- 
ing, rich,  sugary. — Early  to  Mid- Winter.  Tree  a  moder- 
ately vigorous  grower,  somewhat  irregular,  good  liearer. 

Beurr^  d'Arembcrs  (Due  d'Aremberg,  etc.). — Origin 
France.  Medium  to  large,  obovate,  uneven  surface; 
gre»nish-yellow,  yellow  at  maturity  with  some  russet; 
flesh  white,  buttery,  juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Early  to  Mid- 
Winter.  Tree  a  slow  grower  and  unhealthy;  a  delicious 
winter  pear,  but  seldom  planted,  on  account  of  its  serious 
defects. 

Columbia. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  obovate;  pale 
green  in  autumn,  becoming  golden-yellow  at  maturity, 
with  deep  orange  cheek  in  sun  exposure;  flesh  juicy, 
sweet,  aromatic. — Early  Winter.  Tree  an  upright,  hand- 
some grower,  and  a  good  bearer.  Fruit  liable  to  be  blown 
off,  and  needs  watching. 

Dana's  Hovey. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Small,  obovate- 
pyriform;  pale  yellow,  netted  and  patched  with  russet; 
flesh  yellowish,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  aromatic. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  a  healtliy,  vigorous  grower,  hardy, 
and  productive.  A  high-flavored,  delicious  pear  for  the 
garden ;  too  small  for  profitable  market  growing,  though, 
like  the  Seckel,  it  commands  high  prices  where  known. 

Doyenne  d'AIen^on  (Doyen^ne  d'Hiyer,  D'Alen^on, 
etc.). — Medium,  roundish,  slightly  pyriform  ;  yellow, 
shaded  in  the  sun  with  dark  crimson,  considerable  russet; 
flesh  granular,  buttery,  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  per- 
fumed.— Middle  to  late  Winter,  often  keeping  until 
spring.  Tree  moderately  vigorous  and  productive ;  a 
valuable  pear,  like  the  Easter  Beurre,  though  not  in 
same  degree;  needs  high  culture  and  thinning  of  the 
fruit  to  bring  it  to  perfection ;  tree  more  hardy  than 
Easter  Beurre. 


376  SELECT   VARIETIES   0?   FRUITS. 

Diihanicl  dti  Honceaii. — Origin  France.  Large,  long- 
pyrifonii,  wiiitish-ycllow,  rather  rough,  nearly  covered 
with  brownish-russet ;  flesh  whitish,  melting,  tender, 
juicy,  with  the  flavor  of  Winter  Nelis. — Early  Winter. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous  and  productive. 

Glout  Morceaii. — Flemish  origin.  Rather  large,  often 
very  large,  varying  in  form,  usually  short-pyrif orm ; 
greenish-yellow,  with  patches  and  dots  of  greenish-brown; 
flesh  white,  fine-grained,  buttery,  melting,  rich,  sugary. 
— Early  Winter.  Tree  is  of  a  roundish,  spreading  habit, 
very  healthy  and  hardy,  not  an  early  bearer,  but  when 
mature  produces  an  abundant  crop,  regular  and  uniform. 
It  is  distinct  in  wood  and  foliage  from  other  varieties,  and 
forms  one  of  the  handsomest  of  pyramids  on  quince  roots. 
In  localities  where  the  pear  blight  prevails,  it  seems  pecu- 
liarly liable  to  attack,  and  recently  has  not  been  much 
planted. 

Josephine  de  Malines. — Medium,  roundish,  flattened; 
pale  yellow  or  straw-color  at  maturity,  sometimes  netted 
and  patched  with  russet;  flesh  white,  tinted  with  rose, 
juicy,  melting,  sweet,  slight  aroma. — Mid-Winter,  often 
keeps  until  Spring.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  hardy, 
foliage  small,  quite  productive.  A  very  valuable  late 
pear,  and  rapidly  gaining  in  popularity. 

Lawrence. — Origin  Long  Island.  Medium  or  above, 
obovate,  obtuse-pyriform;  clear,  light  yellow,  with  more 
or  less  of  russet;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  aromatic. — 
Early  Winter.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  healthy,  and  a 
good  bearer;  valuable  both  for  garden  and  orchard.  It 
usually  commands  the  highest  price  in  market;  one  of 
the  most  valuable  early  winter  sorts. 

Mount  Vernon. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  or 
above,  generally  roundish  obtuse-pyriform  ,-  light  russet 
on  yellow  ground;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  melting,  slightly 
aromatic,  fine  flavored. — Early  Winter.     Tree  vigorous 


PEARS.  877 

and  an  early  bearer.  Like  many  other  sorts,  is  liable  to 
overbear,  and  will  then  be  poor ;  needs  severe  thinning. 

Pound  (UvEDALE'rf  St.  Gekmain,  and  over  thirty  other 
synonyms).  —  Large,  pyriform  ;  yellowisli-green  ;  flesh 
firm,  excellent  for  baking  or  stewing. — Early  to  late 
Winter.  Tree  a  moderate,  healthy  grower,  very  pro- 
ductive.    Valued  everywhere  for  cooking  or  preserving. 

Vicar  of  Hiukfield  (Le  Cure,  and  two  dozen  more 
synonyms). — Origin  France.  Large,  long-pyrif orm ;  pale 
yellow  at  maturity,  often,  when  well  grown,  with  a 
browish-red  cheek  ;  flesh  moderately  juicy,  half-buttery, 
sprightly  and  good. — Early  to  mid  or  late  Winter.  Tree 
a  healthy,  vigorous  grower,  and  very  productive.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  profitable  as  an  orchard  sort  among 
the  whole  list  of  pears,  but  needs  to  be  well  grown  to 
be  good  ;  trees  are  apt  to  be  overladen  and  should  be 
thinned. 

Winter  Nelis  (Bonne  de  Maltnes,  etc.). — Medium  or 
below,  roundish-obovate  ;  yellowish-green,  patched  and 
marbled  with  considerable  russet ;  flesh  fine-grained,  but- 
tery, very  juicy,  sugary,  aromatic. — Early  Winter.  Tree 
thrifty,  hardy,  rather  slender,  and  somewhat  irregular 
grower,  an  early  and  regularly  abundant  bearer  ;  valuable 
for  the  garden  and  orchard.  The  crop  usually  needs 
thinning,  especially  on  trees  of  considerable  age  ;  fruit  is 
always  inferior  when  the  tree  is  overloaded,  but  this 
applies  to  nearly  all  varieties,  though  not  in  the  same 


CLASS  IV. 

Varieties  of  pears  scarcely  entitled  to  a  place  on  the 
select  list,  and  too  good  to  be  omitted.  Some  are  very 
popular  and  valuable  in  certain  localities  ;  others  are  new, 
or  comparatively  new,  and  promising.  This  list  might 
have  been  greatly  extended. 


378  SELECT  VARIETIES  OP   FRUITS. 

Abbott. — Medium,  pyriform  ;  yellowish,  shaded  with 
red  ;  white,  granular,  juicy,  buttery,  melting. — Septem- 
ber.    Rhode  Island. 

Adams. — Large,  obovate-pyriform  ;  greenish-yellow, 
russet  and  red  cheek  ;  very  Juicy,  melting,  vinous. — Sep- 
tember.    Massachusetts. 

Andrews.  —  Eather  large,  pyriform;  yellowish-green, 
with  a  dull  red  cheek;  juicy,  melting,  fine,  vinous  flavor. 
— September.     Massachusetts. 

Beurr^  d'Amanlis. — Large,  roundish  ;  dull  yellowish- 
green,  reddish-brown  cheek  ;  flesh  yellowish,  coarse,  but- 
tery, melting  ;  unreliable  in  quality  ;  good  old  market 
sort.  — September. 

Beurr^  d'Angleterre. — Medium,  pyriform;  dull  green, 
netted  with  russet;  buttery,  melting,  juicy,  pleasant. — 
September.     France. 

Beurr^  d'Albret.  —  Medium,  long-pyriform  ;  yellow, 
with  cinnamon-russet  ;  very  juicy,  buttery,  melting, 
Yinous. — October.     An  excellent  fruit. 

Beiirr^  Brown.  —  Large,  obovate-oblong  ;  yellowish- 
green,  with  reddish-brown  and  russet ;  flesh  white,  melt- 
ing, buttery,  extremely  juicy,  sub-acid.  —  September. 
France.  A  fine  old  sort,  often  excellent,  but  too  variable. 

Beurr^  Durand. — Medium,  oblong-pyiiform  ;  yellow, 
with  splashes  of  red  in  the  sun  ;  fine,  melting,  sugary, 
vinous.  — September.     France. 

Beurr^  Golden  of  Bilboa.  —  Medium,  obovate-pyri- 
form ;  yellow,  slight  russet ;  very  buttery,  melting,  fine- 
grained, vinous. — September.     Spain. 

Beurr^  Mauxion. — Medium,  roundish-pyriform  ;  yel- 
low-russet, with  a  red  cheek;  fine,  buttery,  melting,  juicy, 
sugary,  vinoiis,  perfumed. — September.     Belgium. 

Bcurr^  de  I'Assomption. — Large,  short-pyriform;  lem- 


PEARS.  379 

on-yellow,  some  russet ;  fine,  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  per- 
fumed.— August.     France.     Tree  a  vigorous  grower. 

Beurr^  Moire.  —  Large,  oblong-pyriform  ;  greenish- 
yellow,  a  tinge  of  red  in  sun  ;  granular,  buttery,  melting, 
line,  rich,  perfumed, — October.     France. 

Bergaiuotc  Esp^ren. — Medium,  roundish,  flattened, 
or  flat;  skin  thick,  rough;  greenish-yellow,  russet  patches; 
flesh  greenish-yellow,  sweet,  juicy,  rich.  Tree  healthy, 
vigorous,  and  productive. — Late  Winter.     France. 

Besi  Esp^rcn. — Large,  roundish-pyriform ;  dull  yel- 
low, some  russet;  juicy,  sprightly,  vinous. — October. 
France. 

Besi  dc  Montigny  (Comtesse  de  Lunay,  etc.). — Me- 
dium, roundish-obovate  ;  yellowish-green  ;  flesh  melting, 
half-buttery,  juicy,  sweet,  musky. — Mid-Autumn.  Tree 
vigorous,  healthy,  productive. 

Blacl(  Worcester. — Large,  pyriform  ;  green,  nearly 
covered  with  russet,  coarse;  valued  for  cooking. — Winter. 

Caen  de  France. — Medium,  short-pyriform  ;  yellow, 
with  dull  russet ;  fine-grained,  juicy,  melting,  vinous, 
aromatic. — December,  February.  France.  A  variety  of 
great  excellence. 

Catillac. — Large,  or  very  large,  broad -turbinate  ;  yel- 
lowish, with  a  brown  cheek  ;  flesh  firm. — Early  to  late 
Winter.  France.  Tree  a  strong  grower  and  good  bearer; 
valued  for  cooking  or  baking. 

Church. — Below  medium,  flattened  ;  greenish-yellow  ; 
very  buttery,  melting,  rich,  sweet,  perfumed.  —  Sep- 
tember. 

Coit's  Beurr^.  —  Medium,  obtuse-pyriform  ;  yellow, 
slightly  russet,  often  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white,  melting, 
juicy,  rich,  vinous. — Early  Autumn.     Ohio. 

Comte  de  Flandre. — Large,  long-pyriform  ;  yellowish- 


880  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

russet ;  very  buttery,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sweet. — Oc- 
tober.    Belgium, 

Dc  Ton^rcs  (Duran'deau). — Large,  long-pyriform  ; 
pale  yellow,  with  cinnamon-russet,  which  becomes  red 
ou  the  sunny  side ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  sugary, 
rich. — Mid- Autumn.     France. 

Dix. — Large,  long-pyriform ;  deep  yellow,  with  more 
or  less  of  russet ;  flesh  juicy,  sugary,  melting,  slightly 
perfumed, — Mid  to  late  Autumn.     Massachusetts. 

Doctor  Lindley. — Medium,  obovate-pyriform;  yellow, 
with  slight  russet;  melting,  sweet,  perfumed. — Novem- 
ber, December.     France. 

Duchesse  d'Orleans  (St,  Nicholas,  etc.). — Above  me- 
dium, long-pyriform;  yellowish-green,  with  sometimes 
a  red  cheek;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  slightly  aromatic. — 
Early  Autumn.     France. 

Due  de  Brabant  (B.  de  Waterloo,  Fond  ante  des 
Charneuse), — Large,  pyriform;  greenish,  with  crimson- 
red  in  the  sun;  flesh  very  juicy,  buttery,  melting,  vinous. 
— Mid  to  late  Autumn.  Belgium.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy, 
and  productive. 

Edmonds. — Large,  roundish-pyriform,  with  a  very 
long  stalk;  yellow,  or  straw-color,  with  occasionally 
bronzed-red  in  the  sun;  flesh  fine-grained,  buttery, 
melting,  sweet,  with  a  peculiar  and  very  agreeable  aroma; 
quality  Variable,  especially  on  young  trees, — Early  Au- 
tumn. New  York.  Tree  a  remarkably  strongs  uj) right 
grower,  and  an  abundant  bearer. 

Euj^ene  Appcrt. — Medium,  roundish-oblate;  greenish- 
yellow;  flesh  melting,  sweet,  with  flavor  of  Gansel's  Ber- 
gamot. — Mid- Autumn.  France.  Tree  moderate  grower 
as  a  standard,  does  not  succed  so  well  on  the  quince. 

Fondantc  de  Bihorel. — Described  as  follows:  "of  me- 
dium size  or  below;  melting  and  good;  one  of  the  best 
eariv  pears.  '*     France. 


PEARS.  381 

GanscPs  Ber^aiuot. — Large,  roundisIi-ol)ovate;  skin 
grayish-brown;  tiesli  white,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  aromatic. 
— Mid-Autumn.     England.     Tree  a  moderate  grower. 

tlansel's  Seckel. — Medium,  oblate;  skin  yellow,  most- 
ly covered  with  thin  russet;  flesh  buttery,  juicy,  vinous, 
mth  a  rich  aromatic  flavor. — Late  Autumn.  England. 
"Tree  a  poor  grower  but  very  productive. 

General  Totleben. — Medium  to  large,  obtusc-pyri- 
lorm;  greenish-yellow,  patched  with  russet;  flesh  whitish- 
/ellow,  a  little  coarse,  melting,  juicy,  slightly  aromatic. 
— October.     Belgium. 

General  Taylor  (Homewood). — Medium,  obtuse-pyri- 
form;  yellow,  crimson  in  the  sun,  nettings  and  patches 
of  russet;  flesh  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  melting,  sweet. — Oc- 
tober.    Maryland. 

Gratioli  of  Jersey.  — Medium,  roundish-pyriform; 
greenisli-yellow,  netted  and  patched  with  russet;  juicy, 
rich,  melting,  vinous. — September.     Isle  of  Jersey. 

Gregoire  Bordillon. — Described  as  being  a  fine  large 
variety  ripening  in  August.     France. 

Henry  the  Fourth. — Below  medium,  roundish-pyri- 
form; greenish-yellow,  with  gray  specks;  not  fine-grained, 
juicy,  melting,  perfumed. — September.  France.  An 
old  variety. 

Henri  Desportes. — Large,  piriform;  yellowish-green; 
juicy,  melting,  sweet. — August.  Tree  a  moderate  grow- 
er.    France. 

Jalousie  de  Fontenay  Vendue. —Medium,  long-pyri- 
form;  dull  yellow  and  green,  a  red  cheek  and  some 
russet;  flesh  white,  melting,  buttery,  rich. — Mid-Autumn. 
France.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  early  and  abundant 
bearer. 

Jules   Bivort. — Medium  to  large,  pyriform;  yellowish. 


382         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

with  more  or  less  russet;  very  juicy,  buttery,  sweet,  melt« 
ing,  vinous. — October. 

Kin^sessing'. — Large,  obtuse-pyriform;  greenish-yel- 
low; rather  coarse,  juicy,  buttery,  melting,  sweet. — Sep- 
tember.    Pennsylvania. 

Madam  Eliza. — Large,  acute-pyriform;  light  yellow, 
traces  of  russet;  fine,  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  jserfumed. — ■ 
October.     Tree  a  good  grower.     Belgium. 

Maurice  Desportes. — Medium  to  large,  acute-pyriform; 
dull  yellow,  with  russet;  fine-grained,  melting,  sweet. 
— October.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  productive. 
France. 

Marie  Bcnoist. — Described  as  being  large  and  of  fine 
quality,  and  a  valuable  addition  to  the  list  of  late  pears. 
— Season  December  and  January.     France. 

Marie  Louise. — Large,  long-pyriform;  yellow,  mottled 
with  russet;  very  buttery,  melting,  vinous,  sweet. — Octo- 
ber. Belgium.  A  fine,  old  sort,  but  variable  in  some 
localities. 

Marie  Louise  d'llccles. — Large,  roundish-pyriform; 
yellow,  shaded  with  brown  in  the  sun,  netted  and  patched 
with  russet;  juicy,  melting,  vinous,  a  little  astringent. — 
September.     Belgium. 

IVantais  (Beurrede  Nantes). — Large,  long-pyriform; 
greenish-yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  melting,  juicy,  sweet, 
pleasantly  perfumed. — October.     France. 

IVouveau  Poiteau. — Large,  pyriform;  greenish,  with 
patches  and  dots  of  russet;  flesh  whitish,  buttery,  melt- 
ing, juicy,  sugary,  vinous. — Late  Autumn.     Belgium. 

Oswes?o  Beurr^. — Medium,  roundish,  flattened  ;  yel- 
lowish-green, with  tliin  russet  until  fully  ripe,  tlien  fine, 
yellow  russet ;  flesh  melting,  buttery,  juicy,  vinous, 
aromatic. — Mid  to  late  Autumn.  New  YorK.  Tree  erect, 


PEARS.  383 

moderately  vigorous,  and  a  great  bearer  even  when  young; 
fruit  sometimes  cracks. 

Ott. — Small,  roundish;  light  yellow;  melting,  sugary, 
aromatic. — August.     Pennsylvania. 

Piatt. — Medium,  roundish,  flattened;  pale  yellow,  con- 
siderable russet;  buttery,  juicy,  half-melting,  pleasant. — 
October.     New -York. 

Pius  the  9th, — Above  medium,  roundish,  long-pyri- 
form  ;  yellow,  considerable  russet ;  juicy,  a  little  firm, 
melting,  brisk,  vinous. — October.     13elgium.     Variable. 

President  Mas, — Large  to  very  large,  pyriform;  orange- 
yellow,  sprinkled  with  russet;  flesh  fine  grained,  melting, 
sweet,  slightly  vinous,  first  quality. —  Early  Winter. 
France. 

Rapelje's  Seedling, — Medium,  obovate  to  pyriform ; 
yellowish,  mostly  covered  Avith  gray  russet ;  juicy,  some- 
what granular,  melting,  sweet,  vinous. — September.  Long 
Island.     An  excellent  fruit. 

Rutter. — Medium  to  large,  roundish  ;  greenish-yellow, 
considerable  russet ;  moderately  juicy,  a  little  gritty,  al- 
most melting,  sweet. — October.     Pennsylvania. 

St,  Ghislain. — Medium,  pp-iform ;  clear,  pale  yellow; 
buttery,  juicy,  sprightly,  rich. — October.  Belgium.  A 
fine,  old  sort,  but  rather  superseded  by  others  larger  and 
more  attractive  of  the  same  season. 

St,  Michael  Archangel,  —  Large,  obovate-pyriform  ; 
pale  yellow,  netted  and  patched  with  russet;  flesh  but- 
tery, juicy,  melting,  slightly  aromatic. — Mid-Autumn. 
France. 

Souvenir  d'Esperen,— Medium  to  large,  long-pyriform; 
greenish-yellow,  mostly  covered  with  russet;  flesh  yellow- 
ish, juicy,  vinous,  aromatic.  —  Mid  to  late  Autumn. 
France.  Tree  vigorous,  healthy,  and  hardy,  holds  its 
foliage  late  in  the  season,  productive. 


384  SELECT    VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

SELECT   ASSORTMENTS   OF    PEARS. 

To  aid  the  inexperienced  amateur  in  making  up  small 
assortments : 

Twelve  Varieties  on"  Pear  Stocks.  —  Bartlett, 
Clapp's  Favorite,  Doyenne  d'Ete,  Beurre  Bosc,  Lawrence, 
Beurre  d'Anjou,  Seckel,  Winter  Nelis,  Dana's  Hovey, 
Sheldon,  Paradise  d'Antomne,  Doyenne  Boussock. 

Twelve  Varieties  oisr  Quince  Stocks.  —  Beurre 
d'Anjou,  Duchesne  d'Angonleme,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey, 
Howell,  XJrbaniste,  White  Doyenne  (where  it  succeeds). 
Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Beurre  Superfin,  Brandy  wine,  Tyson, 
Beurre  Giifard.  Josephine  de  Malines. 

Twenty-five  Varieties  for  the  Garden  on 
Quince. — Bartlett,  Petite  Marguerite,  Tyson,  Beurre 
d'Anjou,  Beurre  Diel,  B3II0  Lucrative,  Beurre  Giffard, 
Duchesse  d'Angonleme,  Doyenne  White  (where  it  suc- 
ceeds), Doyenne  Gray.  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Seckel, 
Onondaga,  Urbaiiiste,  Beurre  Easter,  Beurre  Gris  d'Hiver, 
Glout  Morceau,  Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Josephine  de  Ma- 
lines, Clapp's  Favorite,  Beurre  Superfin,  Beurre  Hardy, 
Howell,  Brandywine,  Doyenne  d'Alenyon. 

For  Profit  on  Quince  Stock. — Duchesse  d'Angoa- 
leme,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Howell, 
and  White  Doyenne  where  it  succeeds. 

Section  3. — Quinces. 

Apple-Shaped  or  Orange. — Large,  roundish,  with  a 
short  neck  ;  color  bright  golden-yellow.  The  tree  has 
rather  slender  shoots  and  oval  leaves ;  very  productive. 
This  is  the  variety  most  extensively  cultivated  for  the 
fruit. — Ripe  in  October. 

AnffcrSi — The  strongest  grower  of  all  the  quinces,  and 
tlij  best  for  pear  stocks.     The  fruit  is  much  like  the 


QUINCES.  385 

Oi-ange  in  appearance;  later,  keeps  longer.  The  tree  does 
noi  bear  as  young,  but  when  once  it  reaches  maturity  is 
a  good,  regular  bearer. 

Champion. — A 'new  variety  which  originated  in  Con- 
necticut, described  as  a  large  handsome  fruit,  of  good 
quality,  maturing  later  than  the  Orange.  Tree  a  vigor- 
ous grower. 

Pear-Shapcd. — This  has  generally  more  of  a  pyriforni 
shape  than  the  Orange  quince  ;  the  fruit  is  larger,  the 
tree  stronger. 

Portugal. — The  fruit  of  this  is  more  oblong  than  the 
preceding,  of  a  ligliter  color  and  better  quality ;  the 
shoots  are  stouter,  and  the  leaves  thicker  and  broader; 
usually  propagated  by  budding  or  grafting.  A  week  or 
two  later  than  the  Apple.     A  shy  bearer. 

Rea's  Seedling  (Rea's  Mammoth,  Van"  Slyke). — 
Native  of  Greene  County,  N.  Y.  A  magnificent  fruit, 
averaging  much  larger  than  the  Apple-shaped  or  Orange, 
and  superior  to  it  for  culinary  purposes. 

QUINCES   FOR   ORNAMENT. 

Chinese. — Quite  different  in  appearance  from  other 
quinces.  The  leaves  are  glossy,  sharply  and  beautifully 
toothed ;  the  fruit  is  large,  oblong,  bright  yellow,  and 
keeps  until  spring ;  little  used.  The  flowers  are  large 
and  showy,  with  the  fragrance  of  the  violet ;  worked  on 
the  other  sorts,  rather  tender,  requiring  a  sheltered  sit- 
uation. Usually  cultivated  for  ornament.  A  very  tardy- 
bearer. 

Japan. — This  is  very  distinct  from  all  the  others;  very 
bushy,  thorny,  and  hardy.  There  are  several  varieties, 
all  of  which  may  be  reckoned  among  the  most  beautiful 
of  all  our  hardy  spring-flowering  shrubs.  Cultivated 
usually  as  Pyrus  Jaijonica  and  sometimes  given  in  the 
17 


386  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  FRUITS. 

catalogues  as  Cydonia  Japonica.  Makes  an  excellent  or- 
namental hedge.  Fruit  about  as  large  as  a  chicken's 
Qgg ;  unfit  for  use. 


♦SECOND  DIVISION.— STONE  FRUITS— APRICOTS,  CHER- 
RIES, PEACHES,   NECTARINES,   AND    PLUMS. 

SECTION"  4. — SELECT  APRICOTS. 

Alberge  de  Mont.Sfaniet  (Montgamet). — Medium;  pale 
yellow,  with  tinge  of  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  yellowish,  ad- 
hering to  the  stone;  juicy,  perfumed,  excellent.  The 
tree  is  a  hardy,  fine  grower. — Last  of  July. 

Beauge. — Resembles  Moorpark,  but  ripens  later, 

Blenheim  (Shipley). — Medium,  oval;  orange-yellow; 
flesh  juicy,  moderately  rich. — Ripens  eight  or  ten  days 
before  Moorpark. 

Breda f — Small,  round;  dull  orange,  marked  with  red 
in  the  sun;  flesh  orange-colored,  juicy,  rich,  and  vinous; 
parts  from  the  stone;  kernel  sweet;  tree  hardy,  robust, 
and  prolific— End  of  July  and  beginning  of  August. 

Canino  Grosso.— Large;  orange-color,  becoming  red  in 
the  sun;  flesh  reddish-yellow,  high-flavored.— Middle  of 
July.     Tree  vigorous,  hardy. 

Early  Golden  (Dubois).— Small;  pale  orange;  flesh 
orange,  juicy,  and  sweet;  kernel  sweet;  tree  very  hardy 
and  productive.  The  original  tree  at  Fishkill  is  said  to 
have  yielded  $90  worth  of  fruit  in  one  season.— Begin- 
ning of  July. 

Early  Moorpark, — Resembles  Moorpark,  but  ripens 
earlier.  Medium,  roundish-oval;  yellow,  mottled  with 
crimson  in  the  sun. 


APRICOTS,  387 

Hemskerk.— A  large  English  variety,  much  like  Moor- 
park,  but  ripens  a  little  earlier.  It  is  known  by  its  stone 
not  being  perforated,  as  is  that  of  the  Moorpark. 

Kaisha. — A  variety  from  Syria;  requires  a  warm,  shel- 
tered location;  medium,  roundish;  yellow,  mottled  and 
tinged  with  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  tender,  sugary,  high- 
flavored;  separating  freely  from  the  stone. — Last  of  July. 

Large  Early. — Large;  orange,  with  a  red  cheek;  flesh 
sweet,  rich,  and  excellent;  parts  from  the  stone.  Tree 
vigorous  and  productive. — Beginning  of  August. 

Moorpark, — One  of  the  largest  and  finest  apricots  ; 
yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  flesh  orange,  sweet,  juicy,  and 
rich;  parts  from  the  stone;  growth  rather  slow,  but  stout 
and  short-Jointed.     Very  productive. 

Xcw  Large  Early  (Eivers). — Resembles  the  old  Large 
Early,  but  very  rich. 

Orange. — Medium;  orange,  with  a  ruddy  cheek;  flesh 
rather  dry,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone;  rerpiires  ripen- 
ing in  the  house. — End  of  July. 

Peach. — Very  large  and  handsome  ;  flesh  delicate, 
juicy,  and  rich. 

Red  Masculine  (Early  Masculine,  etc.). — Small, 
nearly  round;  well-marked  suture  one  side;  bright  yel- 
low, tinged  with  deep  orange,  and  spotted  with  dark  red; 
flesh  juicy,  musky,  pleasant;  the  earliest  to  ripen. — Early 
in  July.     Tree  hardy  and  a  good  bearer. 

Royal. — Large  oval;  pale  orange;  flesh  firm,  juicy, 
rich,  vinous;  ripens  just  before  the  Moorpark.  A  val- 
uable variety. 

Saint  Ambroise. — Large;  deep  yellow,  reddish  next  the 
sun;  fiesh  juicy,  rich  and  sweet, — Middle  of  August. 

Sardinian. — Small;  white,  with  a  red  cheek;  moder- 
ately juicy. — Very  early  in  July.     Tree  productive. 

Turkey, — Medium  to  large,  nearly  round;  deep  yellow^ 


388  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

mottled  with  orange  in  the  sun;  flesh  pale  yellow,  firm, 
juicy,  excellent. — Middle  of  August. 

Section    5. — Select    Cherries. 

class  l — heart  cherries. 

Fruit  heart-shaped,  with  tender,  sweet  flesh.  Trees  of 
rapid  growth,  with  large,  soft,  drooping  leaves. 

Belle  d'Orleans. — Origin  France.  Medium,  round- 
ish-heart-shape ;  pale  yellow,  partially  covered  with  red; 
flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet  and  delicious. — Early  iu 
June,  or  immediately  after  Early  Purple  Guigne.  Tree 
a  fine  grower  and  an  abundant  bearer;  one  of  the  finest 
early  varieties. 

Black  Eagle. — Origin  England.  Eather  above  medium, 
obtuse-heart-shape;  deep  purplish-black;  flesh  deep 
purple,  tender,  with  a  rich,  high-flavored  juice. — Early 
in  July,  or  just  after  Black  Tartarian.  Tree  a  strong 
grower,  a  moderate  bearer  while  young,  productive  when 
old. 

Black  Tartarian. — Origin  Russia.  Very  large,  heart- 
shape,  uneven  on  the  surface;  purplish  black;  flesh  half- 
tender,  very  juicy,  mild,  delicious. — Last  of  June.  Tree 
very  vigorous,  upright,  a  great  bearer;  one  of  the  most 
popular  and  productive  varieties  in  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try.    Always  commands  the  highest  price  in  market. 

€oe's  Transparent, — Origin  Connecticut.  Medium, 
round;  skin  glossy,  pale  amber,  mottled  and  spotted  with 
cornelian-red;  flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet  and  delicate. 
Middle  to  last  of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  form- 
ing a  handsome,  round  head,  very  productive.  This  is 
one  of  the  best  of  dessert  cherries,  but  too  tender  for 
marketing. 

Delicate. — Origin  Ohio.  Rather  above  medium,  round- 
ish; clear  amber-yellow,  with  a  rich,  bright  red  in  the  sun 


CHEREIES.  389 

exposure;  flesh  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  with  a  rich, 
high  flavor. — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  thrifty,  spreading 
grower,  productive.     Most  vahiable  for  family  use. 

Downer's  Late  Red, — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium, 
roundish;  clear,  lively  red,  mottled  with  amber;  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  sprightly,  a  little  bitter  unless  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  sweet  and  fine. — Early  to  middle  of  July.  Tree 
very  hardy,  a  fine,  erect  grower,  very  productive;  the  fruit 
is  borne  in  clusters,  and  will  hang  fur  a  considerable  time 
on  the  tree. 

Early  Purple  Ciiii^ne.  —  Medium,  roundish-heart- 
shajw;  dark  red,  i)urplisli  when  mature;  flesh  purjfle, 
juicy,  tender,  rich  and  sweet. — Early  in  June.  Tree  a 
free  but  slender  grower  while  young,  hardy,  and  makes 
a  fine,  spreading,  open  head,  bearing  very  abundantly. 
Indispensable  as  an  early  variety,  and  is  found  highly 
profitable  as  a  market  sort  in  some  localities. 

Elton • — Origin  England.  Large,  heart-shape,  pointed  ; 
glossy  pale  yellow,  shaded,  mottled  and  streaked  with  red 
in  the  sun  ;  flesh  somewhat  firm,  nearly  tender  when  fully 
ripe,  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  high  flavor. — Middle  to  last  of 
June.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading,  irregular  in  growth,  a 
good  liearer.  One  of  the  best  of  the  large  light-colored 
rarieties. 

Governor  Wood, — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  roundish- 
heart-shape  ;  light,  rich  yellow,  shaded  and  marbled  with 
red  ;  flesh  almost  tender,  jnicy,  sweet,  with  a  rich,  deli- 
cious flavor. — Middle  to  last  of  June.  Tree  a  fine  grower, 
forming  a  round,  half-spreading  head,  very  })roductive  ; 
liable  to  overbear,  which  might  be  remedied  by  judicious 
pruning. 

Knight's  Early  Black. — Origin  England.  Large,heart- 
shape  ;  deep  purple,  almost  black  ;  flesh  purple,  tender, 
juicy,  sweet  and  rich,  high  flavor. — Middle  to  last  of  June. 
Tree  a  sjireading,  stocky  grower,  and  productive. 


390  SELECT  VARIETIES  OE  ERtJlTS. 

Ohio  Beauty. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  obtuse  heart- 
sluii)e  ;  pale  yellow,  mostly  overspread  with  clear,  bright 
red  ;  flesh  quite  tender,  juicy,  brisk,  delicious. — Middle 
of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous,  rather  spreading  grower,  very 
productive,  and  hardy.  Ranks  among  the  best  of  the 
light-colored  varieties. 

CLASS   II. — BIGARREAU    CHERRIES. 

These  are  chiefly  distinguished  from  the  preceding  class 
by  their  firmer  flesh.  Their  growth  is  vigorous,  branches 
spreading,  and  foliage  luxuriant,  soft,  and  drooping. 

Bif^arreau  or  Yellow  Spanish. — Large,  obtuse  heart- 
shape  ;  beautiful  waxen-yellow,  with  bright  red  cheek  in 
the  sun  ;  flesh  quite  firm,  pale  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  sweet 
and  delicious  flavor, — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  vigorous, 
stocky  grower,  making  a  fine,  round  head,  very  produc- 
tive.    An  old  variety  of  tlie  largest  size  and  best  quality. 

Cleveland  Bigarrcau. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  round 
heart-shape  ;  bright,  clear  red  on  yellow ;  flesh  half-firm, 
juicy,  sweet  and  rich. — Last  of  June.  Tree  a  fine  grower, 
spreading  and  productive. 

Gridley  or  Apple  Cherry. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Me- 
dium, roundish  ;  dark  reddish-brown,  black  when  fully 
ripe  ;  flesh  very  firm,  not  juicy  or  high-flavored. — Middle 
of  July.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  A  cap- 
ital market  variety  because  of  its  lateness  and  firmness. 

Monstrueuse  dc  Mezel  (Great  Bigarreau). — Origin 
France.  Large  or  very  large,  obtuse  heart-shape,  uneven 
surface  ;  dark  red,  almost  black  at  maturity  ;  flesh  firm, 
juicy,  well-flavored. — Early  to  middle  of  July.  Tree  very 
vigorous,  forming  a  large,  wide,  open,  spreading  head. 
Productive  and  profitable. 

Napoleon  Bija^arreau  (  ''Royal  Ann"  in  Calif ornia  and 
Oregon). — Very  large,  heart-shaped  ;  pale  yellow,  dotted 


cnERRiES.  39i 

and  spotted  witli  deep  red  and  dark  crimson  ;  flesli  very 
firm,  juicy,  fine  flavor. — Early  in  July.  Tree  a  vigorous 
gi'ower  and  very  productive. 

Red  Jacket. — Origin  Ohio.  Large  to  very  large,  reg- 
ular, obtuse  heart-shape  ;  amber-yellow,  mostly  covered 
with  light  red ;  flesh  half-tender,  juicy,  sweet,  good 
flavor. — Middle  of  July.  Tree  a  free,  healthy  grower, 
forming  a  large,  spreading  head,  very  productive.  Ripens 
late,  and  is  very  ])rofi table  for  market. 

Rockport  Bi^arreau. — Origin  Ohio.  Large,  roundish, 
obtuse  heart-shape  ;  amber-yellow,  shaded  and  mostly 
covered  with  bright  red;  flesh  half -tender,  juicy,  sweet, 
rich,  excellent. — Middle  of  June.  Tree  a  very  erect, 
vigorous  grower,  forming  a  remarkably  beautiful,  upright 
head,  and  very  productive. 

Tradescaiit's  Black  Heart  (Elkhorn).— Origin  Eu- 
rope. Very  large,  heart-shaped ;  deep  purple,  almost 
black;  flesh  firm,  moderately  juicy,  purplish,  sweet. — 
Middle  to  end  of  July.  Tree  vigorous,  upright,  with  a 
peculiar  gray  bark,  a  great  bearer,  and  valuable  for 
market  or  garden. 

Windsor. — Originated  by  James  Dougall,  Windsor, 
Ont.  Large;  liver-colored;  flesh  remarkably  firm,  and  of 
fine  quality. — Ripens  three  or  four  clays  after  Tradescant's 
Black  Heart,  or  Elkhorn.  Tree  vigorous  and  productive. 
This  is  a  new  variety  which  promises  to  be  valuable  on 
account  of  its  lateness,  firmness,  and  good  quality. 

CLASS   III. — DUKE  AND  MORELLO  CHERRIES. 

These  two  classes  of  cherries  are  very  distinct  from  the 
preceding.  The  trees  are  of  smaller  size  and  grow  slowly; 
the  leaves  are  thicker  and  more  erect,  and  of  a  deeper 
green.  The  fruit  is  generally  round,  and  in  color  varying 
from  light  red,  like  Belle  de  Choisy,  to  dark  brown,  like 
Mayduke  or  Morello. 


392  .  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

The  Dukes  usually  have  stout,  erect  branches,  avA 
some  of  them,  like  Belle  de  Choisy  and  Reme  Hortense, 
are  quite  sweet.  The  Morellos  have  slender,  spreading 
branches,  and  invariably  acid  fruit.  These  two  classes 
are  peculiarly  appropriate  for  dwarfs  and  pyramids  on 
the  Mahaleb  stock,  and  their  hardiness  renders  them  well 
worthy  of  attention  in  localities  w^here  the  Hearts  and 
Bigarreaus  are  too  tender. 

Belle  de  Choisy. — Origin  France.  Medium,  round; 
skin  thin,  translucent,  pale  amber-color,  mottled  with 
yellowish  and  bright  cornelian-red  ;  flesh  very  tender, 
amber-colored,  melting.  Juicy,  sweet. — Last  of  June. 
Tree  a  healthy  grower,  makes  a  handsome  pyramid  on 
the  Mahaleb,  a  regular  but  moderate  bearer.  An  excel- 
lent dessert  sort,  valued  for  garden  culture. 

Belle  Magnifique. — Large,  roundish;  bright,  rich  red; 
flesh  juicy,  tender,  rich,  rather  acid  until  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  fine  for  the  table  and  excellent  for  cooking. — 
Last  of  July.  Tree  very  hardy  and  healthy,  a  moderate 
grower,  abundant  bearer,  fine  as  a  dwarf  or  pyramid  on 
Mahaleb. 

rarnation. — Large,  round  ;  yellowish-white,  mottled 
and  marbled  with  red;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  a  little 
acid  unless  fully  ripe,  when  it  is  a  rich,  pleasant  sub-acid. 
— Middle  to  last  of  July.  Tree  a  good  grower,  with  a 
rather  low,  spreading  habit;   a  moderate,  regular  bearer. 

Donna  Maria. — Medium,  roundish;  dark,  clear  red; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich  acid. — Middle  of  July.  Tree  a 
healthy  grower,  hardy,  forming  a  small,  round-headed 
tree,  that  comes  early  into  bearing  and  bears  profusely. 
A  valuable  and  profitable  variety  for  market  or  cooking. 

Early  Richmond. — Small  to  medium,  roundish,  borne 
in  pairs,  and  usually  recognized  by  the  calyx  remaining 
on  the  stem  next  the  fruit;  bright,  clear  red;  brisk,  rich 
acid. — Early  to  last  of  June.    Tree  hardy,  healthy,  vigor- 


CHERRIES.  393 

ous,    forming  a  medium-sized   tree,    with    long,    liiilf- 
pendent  shoots,  very  productive,  valuable,  and  profitable. 

Empress  Eugenic. — Origin  France.  Large,  roundish, 
flattened;  dark  red;  flesh  reddish,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. 
— Middle  of  June.  Tree  of  dwarf  habit  and  moderately 
productive. 

Late  Duke. — Large,  heart-shape,  flattened;  rich,  clear, 
rather  dark  red;  flesli  tender,  Juicy,  sprightly  sub-acid. 
— Ripens  gradually  and  hangs  a  long  time  or  until  last  of 
July.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  for  its  class,  and  a  good 
bearer;  makes  a  fine  dwarf  or  pyramid. 

Lieb. — Origin  doubtful.  Described  as  large  or  larger 
than  Early  Richmond,  less  acid,  later,  and  hardier. 

Louis  Philippe. — Origin  France.  Large,  roundish, 
regular  ;  dark  red,  almost  purplish-black;  flesh  red,  ten- 
der, juicy,  sprightly,  mild  acid,  excellent, — Middle  to 
last  of  July,  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  making  a  large 
tree  for  its  class,  with  a  handsome,  round,  spreading 
head,  very  productive.  A  very  valuable  sort  for  dessert, 
canning,  cooking,  or  market. 

May  Duke. — Large,  roundish;  dark,  lively,  rich  red; 
flesh  tender,  very  juicy,  reddish,  rich,  and  excellent  sub- 
acid.— Middle  of  June.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  and  pro- 
ductive, the  fruit  ripening  gradually  in  succession;  makes 
fine  dwarfs  or  pyramids, 

rHontraoreiicy  Larffe-Fruited.— Origin  France.  Large 
roundish;  dark  red;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid,  very 
agreeable;  one  of  the  best  flavored  in  this  class, — 
Ri])ens  about  ten  days  after  Early  Richmond.  Tree  a 
good  bearer,  hardy,  and  prolific, 

Montmorency  Ordinaire. — Origin  France.  Larger 
and  finer  than  Early  Richmond;  rich  red;  flesh  tender, 
soft,  rich  sub-acid,  peculiarly  refreshing. — Ripens  ten 
days  after  Early  Richmond.     Tree  remarkably  prolific 


394  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

and  very  liardy.     One  of  tlie  most  valuable  sorts  in  the 
class,  either  for  the  table  or  for  canning. 

Morello  (English). — Large,  roundish;  dark  red,  near- 
ly black;  flesh  dark  purplish-red,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid. 
— Late  July.  Tree  a  small,  healthy,  but  slender  grower, 
forming  a  pretty  round  head  as  a  standard,  and  a  fine 
bush  as  a  dwarf. 

Olivet. — Origin  France.  Of  recent  introduction,  de- 
scribed as  follows:  '*  Large,  globular;  deep  red;  flesh 
red,  tender.  Juicy,  rich. — Kipens  early  in  June.  Tree 
productive  and  hardy." 

Reinc  Hor tense. — Origin  France.  Large  to  very 
large,  roundish  ;  bright,  clear  red,  marbled  and  mottled 
in  yellow  ;  flesh  tender,  Juicy,  slightly  sub-acid,  delicious. 
— Middle  to  last  of  July,  Tree  a  healthy,  vigorous, 
handsome  grower,  and  a  moderate,  even,  regular  bearer. 

Royal  Duke. — Large,  roundish-oblong  ;  rich,  dark  red 
at  maturity  ;  flesh  reddish,  tender,  Juicy,  sub-acid. — 
Last  of  June.  Tree  an  upright,  compact  grower,  with 
branches  stouter  than  the  average  of  its  class.  An  even 
but  moderate  bearer. 

SMALL   SELECT   LISTS. 

Six  for  the  Oarden. — Black  Tartarian,  Coe's  Trans- 
parent, Knight's  Early  Black,  Yellow  Spanish,  Late 
Duke,  Montmorency  Ordinaire. 

For  the  MarTcet  Orchard.— Black  Tartarian,  Yellow 
Spanish,  Napoleon  Bigarreau,  Tradescant's  Black  Heart, 
Montmorency  Ordinaire,  Windsor,  Monstrueuse  de  Mezel. 

Section  6. — Select  Nectarines. 

The  Nectarine  is  derived  from  the  peach  ;  the  trees  are 
precisely  alike,  and  the  fruit  diifers  only  in  the  nectarine 


NECTARINES.  395 

being  smootli-skinned.  It  is  peculiarly  liable  to  Ije  de- 
stroyed by  tbe  curculio.  The  same  preventive  remedy 
against  curculio  must  be  applied  as  with  tbe  plum. 

Boston. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Fruit  large,  roundish- 
oval;  bright  yellow,  with  a  deep  red  and  mottled  cheek  ; 
flesh  yellow,  sweet,  pleasant,  peculiar  flavor.  Freestone. 
— Early  September.     Tree  hardy  and  productive. 

Downton. — Origin  England.  Large,  roundish-oval  ; 
pale  green,  with  a  violet-red  cheek  ;  flesh  greenish- white, 
melting,  juicy,  sweet,  rich  and  high  flavored.  Freestone. 
— Last  of  August. 

Early  Violet  (  Violette  Hative). — Rather  large, round- 
ish ;  pale  yellowish-green,  nearly  covered  with  violet-pur- 
plish-red; flesh  whitish,  rays  of  red  at  the  stone,  melting, 
juicy,  rich  and  high  flavor.     Freestone. — Last  of  August. 

Early  IVewin^ton  (Lucombe's  Black,  etc.). — Origin 
England.  Large,  roundish-ovate,  with  a  swollen  point 
at  apex  ;  pale  green,  nearly  covered,  mottled  and  marbled 
with  red,  thin  bloom;  flesh  green isli-Avhite,  red  at  the 
stone;  juicy,  sugary,  rich,  excellent.  Clingstone. — Early 
September. 

Elruge. — Origin  England.  Medium,  roundish-oval; 
greenish,  mostly  covered  with  violet-red,  deep  red  in  the 
sun;  flesh  slightly  stained  with  red  at  the  stone,  very 
juicy,  melting,  with  a  rich,  fine  flavor.  Freestone. — 
Early  September.  This  variety  is  widely  grown  and 
generally  successful. 

Hardwicke's  Seedlinff.— Origin  England.  Very  large, 
roundish,  or  roundish-oval,  with  a  swollen  point  at  apex; 
pale  yellosv,  with  a  dark,  violet-red  cheek;  flesh  pale 
green,  tinged  with  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich. 
Freestone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  very  hardy  and  excel- 
lent bearer. 

Hunt's  Tawny. — Origin  England.  Medium,  roundish, 
narrowing  to  the  apex,  with  a  swollen  point,  one  side 


39G  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

enlarged;  pale  orange,  with  a  deep  red  cheek  in  the  snn', 
flesh  orange,  melting,  juicy,  stained  with  red  at  the  stone. 
Freestone. — Middle  of  August.  A  hardy  tree,  early  and 
productive. 

Lord  Napier. — Origin  England  (Rivers).  Large,  hand- 
some, fine  flavored.      Very  early. 

Pituiastoil  Orange— Origin  England.  Large,  round- 
ish-ovate with  a  swollen  point;  rich  orange-yellow,  red, 
bronzed  in  the  sun;  flesh  orange-yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  excellent.  Freestone — Last  of  August  or  early 
September, 

Red  Roman. — Large,  roundish,  a  little  flattened;  green- 
ish-yellow, with  a  brownish-red  cheek;  flesh  firm,  green- 
ish-yellow, red  at  stone,  juicy,  rich,  vinous.  Clingstone. 
— Early  September.  Tree  healthy  and  productive.  An 
old,  foreign  variety  of  great  value. 

Rivers'  Orange. — Originated  by  Thomas  Rivers,  Eng- 
land. Much  like  its  parent,  the  Pitmaston  Orange,  but 
rii)ening  later.     Tree  a  great  bearer. 

Stanwick. — Origin  England,  where  it  was  grown  from 
a  stone  brought  from  Syria.  Large,  or  above  medium, 
roundish-oval;  greenish-white,  much  covered  and  shaded 
with  violet-red  when  grown  in  the  sun;  flesh  white, 
melting,  rich,  juicy,  sweet. — Middle  of  September. 

Victoria. — Origin  England.  Fruit  resembles  Stanwick, 
except  that  it  ripens  a  month  earlier.  It  originated  with 
Thomas  Rivers,  England,  from  seed  of  Early  Violet,  fer- 
tilized by  Stanwick. 

Note. — Mr.  Rivers  in  the  latter  part  of  his  life  origi- 
nated many  new  varieties  of  Nectarines,  some  of  which 
promise  to  be  valuable. 

Section"  7. — Select  Peaches. 

Li  the  descriptions  for  the  sake  of  brevity,  the  follow- 
ing abbreviations  are  made  use  of  :  fl.  s.  denotes  small 


397 


Sowers  ;  fl.   L,  laige  rlowers  •  gl.  glands  ;  glob, 
and  ren.,  reniform.     F.  freestone  ;  C.  clingstone. 

Alexander. — American.  Gl.  giob.,  fl.  1.  Fruit  me- 
dium lo  large;  greenish-white,  nearly  covered  with  deep, 
rich  red  ;  flesh  whitish,  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  adhering 
slightly  to  the  stone.  Last  of  July,  two  weeks  before 
Hale's  Early.  One  of  the  largest  and  best  of  the  very 
early  varieties.  Amsden's  June  proves  to  be  so  much  like 
this  that  many  regard  it  as  identical. 

Alexandra  IVoblesse. — English.  GL  glob.;  fl.  I.  Very 
large,  round,  with  a  rather  deep  suture ;  skin  wnitish 
with  clusters  of  red  dots  on  the  sunny  side  ;  flesh  white, 
melting,  rich  and  excellent.     F. — August. 

Beer's  Smock. — American.  Described  as  a  large  3'el- 
low  peach  of  second  quality,  but  very  productive  and 
popular  for  canning  and  evaporating.     F. 

Bcllei?arde  (Early  Royal  George,  etc.). — France. 
Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large,  round,  suture  siiallow;  pale 
yellow-green,  with  a  rich,  purplish-red  cheek ;  flesh 
marked  Avith  red  at  the  stone,  very  melting,  juicy,  rich, 
and  high  flavored.  F. — Last  of  August.  An  old  va- 
riety, but  one  of  the  handsomest  and  best. 

Bergen's  Yellow. — American.  Gl.  ren,,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  globular  ;  deep  orange,  with  red  ;  flesh  yellow, 
melting,  juicy,  rich,  luscious.  F. — Early  September. 
A  fine  peach,  but  only  an  indifferent  bearer. 

Bilyen's  Late  October  (Bilyeu's  Comet).— American. 
Large;  white,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  white,  firm,  juicy, 
rich.  F. — Ripens  about  ten  days  after  Smock.  A  good 
shipper.     A  valuable  late  peach. 

Chinese  Cling. — Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Large,  globular,  su- 
ture shallow ;  skin  creamy-white,  marbled  with  red  ; 
flesh  white,  red  at  stone,  juicy,  melting,  with  u  rich 
vinous  flavor.     C, — Middle  of  September. 


398         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Cole's  Early  Red.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  medium  size,  roundish  ;  pale  yellow,  nearly  cov- 
ered with  red  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sprightly.  F. 
— Middle  of  August.  A  vigorous  tree,  hardy,  abundant 
bearer,  a  2)rofitable  market  sort. 

I'oliiiubia  (Indiak  Peach). — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl. 
s.  Fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish,  with  distinct 
suture  ;  dull  yellov/ish-red,  with  streaks  of  dark  red  ; 
flesh  yellow,  rich,  juicy,  excellent.  F. — September.  A 
profitable  market  sort.  Tree  hardy,  a  good  grower  and 
bearer  ;  extensively  grown  both  in  orchard  and  garden. 

('OnkliiijE^. — American.  Large,  round,  with  a  slight 
suture  ;  golden-yellow,  marbled  with  crimson  ;  flesh  pale 
yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  high  flavored.  F. — Middle 
of  September.     A  very  handsome  and  excellent  peach. 

Coolcd|?e's  Favorite. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  medium,  roundish,  one  side  slightly  largest ;  clear 
white,  with  a  flne  crimson-red  cheek  ;  flesh  very  melting, 
juicy,  rich,  sweet,  high  flavor.  F. — Middle  of  August. 
Tree  vigorous,  healthy,  very  productive ;  an  extremely 
valuable,  hardy,  and  profitable  variety. 

Crawford's  Early. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  roundish-oblong,  suture  distinct,  with  swol- 
len point  at  apex  ;  yellow,  Avith  red  cheek  ;  flesh  yellow, 
melting,  rich,  sweet,  excellent.  F. — Early  September. 
Tree  very  vigorous  grower,  abundant  bearer,  widely 
grown  and  highly  esteemed  either  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Crawford's  Late.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  roundish,  with  shallow  suture  ;  yellow,  with 
a  fine,  dark  red  cheek ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at  the 
stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous,  excellent.  F. — Mid- 
dle to  last  of  September.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  produc- 
tive, highly  valued  for  orchard  or  garden. 

Crimson  Galande. — English.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
medium,  roundish,  very  handsome  j  skin  alrnost  entirely 


PEACUES.  399 

covered  with  very  dark  crimson  ;  flesh  tender,  melting, 
deeply  stained  at  the  stone,  juicy,  sprightly,  excellent. 
F. — Early  in  September. 

Druid  Hill.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  swollen  point  distinct;  greenish- white,  clouded 
with  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  greenish-white,  purplish- 
red  at  the  stone,  very  juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous.  F.— 
Last  of  September,  early  October.  Tree  very  vigorous, 
abundant  bearer,  and  profitable  South  and  South-west ; 
it  does  not  always  ripen  well  in  this  section. 

Early  Beatrice. — English.  (rl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Fruit 
medium  or  rather  small,  with  a  marbled  i-ed  cheek;  flesh 
melting  and  very  juicy.  F. — Succeeds  Alexander.  A 
very  handsome  and  excellent  peach;  needs  thinning  and 
good  culture. 

Early  Louise. — English.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  me- 
dium size,  round;  skin  bright  red;  flesh  melting  and 
juicy.  F. — Eipens  a  few  days  after  Early  Beatrice  and 
just  before  Early  Elvers.  Tree  hardy  and  prolific.  De- 
sirable for  home  use  and  near  market,  but  too  soft  for 
cai-riage. 

Early  IVewington  Freestone. — American.  Gl.  glob., 
fl.  s.  Fruit  large  or  above  medium,  round,  suture  dis- 
tinct, pale  yellowish-white,  dotted  and  shaded  with  red 
in  the  sun;  flesh  white,  red  at  the  stone,  to  which  it  par- 
tially adheres  unless  fully  ripe,  melting,  juicy,  rich, 
vinous.  F.  —  Middle  August.  Tree  hardy,  moderate 
bearer. 

Early  Rivers.— English,  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Fruit  large, 
roundish;  skin  creamy-white,  with  a  delicate  pink  cheek; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  vinous,  with  a  rich  delicate  flavor.  F. 
— Larger  than,  and  ripens  three  or  four  days  after.  Early 
Louise.  The  finest  early  peach,  invaluable  for  the 
amateur's  garden  and  home  markct^but  will  not  carry  well. 


400  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Early  Silver.— English.  Gl.  reu.,  £1.  1.  Fruit  large, 
roundish-ovate;  skin  cream-colored  with  occasionally  a 
light  blush  on,  the  side  exposed  to  the  sun;  flesh  white, 
melting,  very  juicy,  vinous  and  delicious.  F.— Early 
in  September. 

Early  Tillotson.  —  American.  Leaves  serrated  and 
without  glands,  fl.  s.  Fruit  medium  to  large;  pale  yel- 
lowish-white, considerable  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  melting, 
whitish,  red  at  stone,  very  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent.  F. 
—Middle  August.  Tree  a  slow  grower,  mildews  badly 
at  the  North,  but  South  it  is  one  of  the  best  and  most 
profitable  sorts. 

Early  York  (Serrate  Early  York). — Leaves  serrat- 
ed, without  glands,  fl.  1.  Fruit  medium,  ro.undish,  slight- 
ly ovate  ;  pale  red  on  greenish-white  ground,  dark  red  in 
the  sun;  flesh  greenish-white,  very  tender,  melting,  juicy, 
sprightly,  rich,  excellent.  F. — Middle  of  August.  Tree 
a  good,  fair  grower,  prolific  ;  one  of  the  best  for  orchard 
or  garden. 

Fleita's  or  Yellow  St.  John,— American.  Fruit  large, 
roundish  ;  skin  orange-yellow  with  a  deep  red  cheek ; 
flesh  yellow,  juicy  and  high  flavored.  F.  Grown  exten- 
sively at  the  South. 

Foster. — American.  Resembles  Crawford's  Early,  but 
of  l^etter  quality  and  ripens  with  that  variety.    F. 

Freeman. — American.  Gl.  glob.  Fruit  large,  round- 
ish; yellow,  with  rich  red  cheek  in  the  sun;  flesh  yellow, 
red  next  the  stone,  juicy,  sweet,  rich.  F. — Middle  Oc- 
tober. Originated  at  South  Pass,  111.,  where  it  is  esteem- 
ed, on  account  of  late  maturity,  as  a  market  sort. 

George  the  Fourth. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  round,  suture  deep,  one  side  enlarged;  pale  yellow- 
ish-white, rich,  dark  red  cheek  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  tinted 
with  red  at  the  stone,  melting,  juicy,  very  rich  and  delici- 
ous.    F. — Last  of  August.     Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  and 


PEACHES.  401 

pfoductive.  One  of  the  best  in  quality,  and  successful 
in  almost  every  locality. 

Cioshawk. — English.  A  seedling  from  Cooledge's  Fa- 
vorite; while  partaking  of  the  hue  flavor  of  that  sort,  it 
is  lai'ger  and  ripens  about  a  week  later,     F. 

Grosse  Mignonne.— French.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.l.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  depressed,  hollow  suture  at  apex  ;  greenish- 
yellow,  mottled  with  red,  purplish-red  cheek;  flesh  white, 
marked  with  red  at  the  stone,  melting,  juicy,  very  rich, 
high,  vinous  flavor.  F. — Middle  August.  Tree  a  free 
grower,  good  bearer. 

Haines'  Early. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Medium, 
roun4,  flattened  at  apex,  one  side  enlarged  ;  pale  white, 
nearly  covered  with  red;  flesh  greenish- white,  very  juicy, 
melting,  sweet,  fine  flavor.  F. — Early  August.  Tree  a 
fine  grower,  hardy  and  productive,  valued  highly  for  the 
orchard. 

Hale's  Early.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  1.  Fruit  medi- 
um, nearly  round  ;  greenish,  mostly  covered  with  red  ; 
flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sweet.  F. — Last  of 
July.  Tree  very  hardy,  a  vigorous  grower  and  abundant 
bearer  ;  but  is  liable  to  rot  in  some  localities. 

Heath  Clinif. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  very 
large,  oblong,  roundish,  suture  distinct,  with  swollen 
point  at  apex;  skin  whitish,  with  blush  or  red  tinge  in 
the  sun;  flesh  greenish-white,  very  tender,  melting,  juicy, 
rich,  and  of  the  highest  flavor,  adheres  closely  to  the 
stone.  C. — October.  Tree  very  hardy,  vigorous,  and 
productive.  This  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  popular 
varieties  in  all  the  South  and  South-west.  It  does  not 
always  ripen  well  at  the  North,  but  may  be  gathered  and 
kept  for  weeks.     It  is  well  suited  to  espalier  training. 

Hill's  Chili. — American.  Fruit  medium,  oval,  suture 
slight;  skin  yellow,  shaded  with  dark  red;  flesh  yellow, 
red  at  the  stone,  half  melting,  s\\'eet,  of  uiQdium  (Quality. 


402  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

F. — Last  of  September.  Tree  vigorous,  hardy,  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Indian  Blood. — American.  Fruit  large;  skin  dark 
claret-color,  with  deep  red  veins;  flesh  deep  red,  juicy, 
and  vinous.     C.     Valued  at  the  South. 

Jacques'  Rareripe. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  roundish,  compressed;  dark,  rich  yellow,  mostly 
covered  with  dull  red;  flesh  yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  slightly  sub-acid.  F.  —  Middle  September.  A 
popular  and  i)rofitable  peach  in  all  the  New  England 
and  Northern  States. 

Kenrii'k's  Heath  (Heath  Free). — American.  Gl. 
ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large,  oblong,  with  a  swollen  point  at 
apex  ;  pale  greenish-white,  with  a  purplish-red  cheek; 
flesh  a  little  coarse;  greenish- white,  deep  red  at  the  stone; 
juicy,  melting,  pleasant,  sub-acid.  F. — Middle  Septem- 
ber. A  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety,  profit- 
able, but  not  of  the  highest  quality. 

Keyport  White.  —  American.  Originated  in  New 
Jersey.  Gl.  ren.  Described  as  a  large,  fine,  white,  late 
peach. 

Lady  Parhani. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
medium,  roundish ;  yellowish-white,  downy ;  flesh  firm, 
rich,  vinous.  F. — Middle  of  October.  Esteemed  at  the 
South. 

La  Grange. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish-oblong;  greenish-white,  some  red  in  the  sun; 
flesh  juicy,  melting,  very  rich,  sweet  and  high -flavored. 
F. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  hardy,  good  grower  and 
bearer.  Highly  esteemed  and  profitable  in  New  Jersey, 
Delaware,  and  the  peach  regions  of  the  South-west. 

Lar^e  Early  York  (Honest  John). — American.  Gl. 
glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  above  medium,  roundish;  whitish,  with 
a  clear,  rich  red  cheek;  flesh  almost  white,  fine-grained, 
juicy,  rich,  mild,  excellent.     F, — Last  of  August.     TreQ 


PEACHES.  403 

vigorous,  litiidy,  i)ro(luctive.  Profitable  cither  for  orchard 
or  garden. 

Larffe  White  Cliiij?.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  11.  s. 
Large,  round;  white,  with  red  on  the  sunny  side;  llesh 
whitish,  tender.  Juicy,  sweet,  rich.  C. — Middle  of  Sep- 
tember. 

Late  AdiuiraUle  (Teton  de  Venus). — Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Very  large,  roundish-oval;  deep,  bold  suture,  small,  acute, 
SAVollen  2)oint  at  apex;  pale,  yellowish-green,  with  a  red 
cheek,  very  dark  in  the  sun;  flesh  greenish- white,  red  at 
the  stone,  jnicy,  melting,  delicious.  F. — Middle  of  Sep- 
tember. Tree  vigorous  and  productive,  hardy.  Valuable 
and  profitable  either  for  garden  or  orchard. 

Late  I^Iorris  White. — American,  Resembles  the  old 
well-known  sort,  but  ripens  about  eight  days  later;  flavor 
fine.     A  desirable  variety. 

Lemon  Cliii^. — American.  Gl.  rcn.,  fl.  s.  Large,  ob- 
long, with  a  large  projecting  point  at  apex,  like  a  lemon; 
fine  yellow,  with  a  rich  brownish-red  cheek;  flesh  firm, 
yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  to  which  it  firmly  adheres;  rich, 
sprightly,  vinous,  sub-acid.  C. — Last  of  September.  A 
native  of  South  Carolina,  and  successful  and  popular 
both  North  and  South.  Many  seedlings  have  been  grown 
from  it,  but  none  to  supersede  it. 

Lord  Palmerston. — English.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Very 
large;  skin  creamy-white,  with  a  pink  cheek;  flesh  firm, 
stained  with  red  at  the  stone,  to  which  it  slightly  adheres; 
juicy  and  rich. — Last  of  September.     A  fine  late  peach. 

Maf?dala.— English.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Fruit  medium, 
inclining  to  oval;  skin  creamy-white,  marbled  and  blotched 
with  crimson;  flesh  greenish,  melting,  rich,  and  fine,  sepa- 
rating freely  from  the  stone.     F. — Early  in  September. 

lUalta. — Fl.  1.  Mediuin,  roundish  ;  greenish-yellow, 
blotched  with  purple  on  tlie  sunny  side;  flesh  light  red 


404  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF   EKUITS. 

next  the  stone,  ricli,  juicy,  vinous,  sweet,  tmd  delicious. 
F. — Middle  of  September.  Not  productive  enough  for 
market  purposes,  but  desirable  for  the  amateur. 

Monstriieiise  de  Done,— French.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  roundish,  suture  distinct ;  skin  whitish,  nearly 
covered  with  red;  flesh  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  meltiug, 
vinous.  F. — Last  of  September.  Tree  Aery  vigorous 
and  productive. 

Moore's  Favorite. — American.  Gl.  glob. ,  fl.  s. .  Ee- 
sembles  Oldmixon  Free,  but  larger  and  ripens  a  little 
earlier.     F.     Valued  in  Delaware. 

Morris's  White  (Morkis'sWkite  Rareripe). — Amer- 
ican. Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  rather  large;  greenish-white, 
with  a  creamy  tint  when  fully  ripe,  and  a  slight  tint  of 
purplish-red  on  the  sun-exposed  side;  flesh  white  to  the 
stone,  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  and  rich.  F. — Middle  of 
September.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower,  healthy,  moderate 
but  good  bearer.     A  fruit  highly  valued  for  canning. 

3l0untain  Rose, — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Large, 
roundish;  skin  whitish,  nearly  covered  with  dark  red; 
flesh  tinged  with  pink,  juicy,  vinous.  F.  Tree  vigorous 
and  productive.     An  excellent  and  early  market  variety. 

Mrs.  Brett. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Medium, 
roundish;  skin  whitish,  with  red  on  the  exposed  side; 
flesh  white,  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich.     F. 

Nectarine. — English.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Large,  pointed; 
skin  smooth  like  a  nectarine,  mottled  with  red  next  the 
sun;  flesh  red  next  the  stone,  firm,  brisk,  refreshing; 
highly  flavored.  F. — Middle  of  September,  ripening 
Avith  Crawford's  Late. 

Noblesse. — English,  Leaves  serrated,  without  glands, 
fl.  1.  Fruit  large,  roundish-oblong;  pale  green,  with 
clouded  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  greenish-Avhite,  juicy, 
melting,  excellent.     F. — Last  of  August,     Tree  healthy 


PEACHES.  405 

and  productive,  A  capital  old  sort,  highly  esteemed 
wherever  grown. 

Oldmixou  Clilll?. — Gl.  glob.^  11.  s.  Fruit  large,  ruund- 
isli-oval,  one  side  .slightly  enlarged;  yellowish-white,  with 
a  red  cheek;  flesh  pale  wliite,  exceedingly  rich,  melting, 
and  juicy.  C. — Middle  of  September.  Tree  healthy, 
hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  One  of  the  best  and 
most  profitable  of  the  clingstones. 

Oldmixou  Freestone.— Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  slightly  oval,  one  side  swollen;  pale  yellowish- 
white,  marbled  with  red,  deep  red  in  the  sun;  flesh  wliite, 
red  at  the  stone,  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  vinous.  F. — 
Early  to  middle  of  September.  Tree  hardy,  very  pro- 
ductive. One  of  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  white- 
fleshed  peaches,  either  for  oi'chard  or  garden. 

Peen-To,  or  Flat  Peacli  of  <  liiiia.— A  Chinese  variety 
raised  by  P.  J.  Berckmans,  Augusta,  Ga.,  from  stones 
received  from  Australia.  It  is  flat  and  about  two  inches 
in  diameter.  The  flesh  is  produced  on  the  sides  only,  the 
ends  being  flattened  down  to  the  stone,  and  is  sweet, 
juicy,  and  good.     Succeeds  admirably  in  Florida. 

Picquet's  Late. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Large  to 
very  large,  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  flesh  yellow,  rich, 
sweet,  and  of  first  quality.  F. — Matures  in  Georgia 
early  in  September.     Highly  valued  at  the  South. 

President.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish-oval;  skin  yelloAvish-green,  with  a  dull  red 
cheek;  flesh  white,  but  deep  red  at  the  stone,  melting, 
juicy,  and  high  flavored.     F. — Middle  of  September. 

Princess  of  Wales.— English.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  1.  Large, 
round,  cream-colored,  shaded  with  blush;  flesh  deep  red 
at  the  stone,  rich,  excellent.  F. — Ripens  with  Crawford's 
Late.     A  late  variety  of  high  merit. 

Red  Cheek  Melocoton.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s. 
Fruit  large,  rouudish-oval,  with  swollen  point  at  apexj 


406         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  PRUITS. 

yellow,  with  a  deep  red  cheek;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at 
the  stone,  juicy,  melting,  rich,  vinous.  F. — Middle  of 
iScptember.  Tree  very  hardy  and  productive.  One  of 
the  most  reliable  of  all  varieties,  and  profitable  for  orch- 
ard or  garden.  A  large  number  of  varieties  have  been 
grown  from  it,  though  few  are  sufficiently  distinct  or 
superior. 

Reeves'  Favorite. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Large, 
roundish;  skin  yellow,  witli  a  red  cheek;  flesh  deep  yel- 
low, red  at  stone,  juicy,  melting,  vinous,  good.  F. — 
Middle  of  September. 

Rivers'  Early  Yorli.— English.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  1. 
Fruit  medium  ;  skin  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  melting 
and  juicy.     F. — Latter  part  of  August. 

Rodman's  Cliog, — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
large,  roundish  ;  skin  nearly  covered  with  red  ;  flesh 
juicy,  firm,  vinous.     C. — Last  of  September. 

Salway. — English.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  large,  round- 
ish, one  side  enlarged,  suture  distinct;  creamy  yellow,  with 
a  marbled,  rich  brownish-red  cheek  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm, 
juicy,  rich,  vinous,  sugary.  F. — Middle  of  October.  Of 
great  value  as  a  late-ripening,  showy,  market  sort. 

Sliangliai. — China.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Very  large,  round- 
ish to  oblong ;  pale  green,  marked  with  light  red  on 
the  side  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  white,  clings  to  the  stone, 
very  juicy,  and  excellent.  C. — End  of  August.  Tree 
hardy  and  prolific.     Desirable  for  the  amateur. 

Smocli  Freestone. — American.  Gl.  ren.  Fruit  large, 
oval,  compressed  on  its  sides  ;  orange-yellow,  mottled 
with  red,  deep  red  cheek  in  the  sun  :  flesh  yellow,  red 
at  the  stone,  moderately  juicy  and  rich,  vinous.  F. — 
Early  October.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and  productive. 
Highly  valued  as  a  late  ripening,  showy,  and  profitable 
market  sort. 

Snow. — American.      Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.     Fruit  medium, 


PEACHES.  407 

rouiidisli  ;  elea!-  wh^te  ;  flesh  wl\ite  to  the  stone,  juicy, 
melting,  sprightly,  sweet,  and  rich.  F. — Early  Sep- 
tember. Tree  hardy,  very  productive.  Uiglily  valued 
for  preserving,  canning,  etc. 

Stcadley. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit  medium, 
roundish;  skin  white,  with  a  faint  blush  on  the  sunny  side; 
flesh  juicy,  sweet.     F. — Kipens  later  than  Heath  Cling. 

Stiinip  the  World. — American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
lajge,  roundish-oblong;  creamy-white,  with  a  bright,  red 
cheek;  flesh  white,  juicy.  F,— Last  of  September.  Tree 
vigorous  and  productive.  Esteemed  in  New  Jersey, 
where  it  originated,  as  a  profitable  market  variety. 

Surpassc  illelocoton.— American.  This  variety,  which 
originated  in  the  grounds  of  Ellwanger  &  Burry,  is  large, 
roundish-oval ;  rich  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  pale 
yellow,  nearly  white,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  vinous,  excel- 
lent. F. — Early  September.  Tree  a  strong  grower, 
productive,  a  valuable  market  sort. 

Susquehanna. — American.  Large,  nearly  round, 
suture  distinct :  yellow,  with  a  beautiful,  broad,  red 
cheek  ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  nch,  juicy,  vinous.  F. 
— Middle  to  last  of  September.  Tiee  a  fine  grower,  very 
popular  in  Pennsylvania. 

Thurber. — American.  Fl.  s.  A  seedling  of  the 
Chinese  Cling,  which  it  resembles.  Large  to  very  large, 
roundish  ;  skin  creamy-white,  marbled  with  ci'imson  ,* 
flesh  white,  juicy,  vinous,  rich.  F. — Matures  from  th^ 
middle  to  the  end  of  July  in  Georgia. 

Tippecanoe  Clini?. — American.  Gl.  reii.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
very  large,  nearly  round,  flattened  slightly  at  tlie  sides  ; 
yellow,  with  a  fine,  rich,  red  cheek  ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy, 
sweet,  vinous.  C. — Late  September  and  early  October. 
Tree  vigorous,  productive.  Handsome,  of  a  very  good 
quality,  valued  highly  wlicre  known  as  a  market  sort. 


408  SELECT   VATIILTIES   OF   FRUITS. 

Troth's  Early,— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Frui'. 
medium,  roundish-oval  ;  whitish,  bright  red  in  the  sun  ; 
flesh  whits,  red  at  the  stone,  juicy,  sweet.  F. — Early  in 
August.  Tree  vigorous,  very  productive.  Extensively 
grown,  and  highly  esteemed  as  a  market  orchard  sort ; 
it  is  also  fine  for  the  orcliard-house,  and  the  garden. 

Waiter.  —  American.  Fruit  medium,  oblong-oval  , 
flesh  yellow,  firm,  moderately  juicy,  vinous,  separates 
freely  from  the  stone.  F. — First  of  September.  Said  to 
be  valuable  for  market  and  canning. 

Ward's  Late  Free. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  s.  Fruit 
rather  large,  roundish,  slightly  oval  ;  white,  with  a  beau- 
tiful red  cheek;  flesh  white,  tinged  with  red  at  the  stone, 
juic}!,  melting,  sweet,  delicious.  F. — Late  September. 
Tree  vigorous  and  productive.  Very  valuable  for  orchard 
or  garden. 

Walburton  Admirable. — English.  Fl.  s.  Fruit  large, 
roundish;  greenish-white,  shaded  with  dark  red  in  t!ie 
sun;  flesh  white,  stained  red  at  the  stone,  melting,  juicy, 
rich,  and  sweet.  F. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  good 
grower  and  productive;  this  variety,  wherever  it  has  been 
grown  in  this  country,  has  been  found  valuable. 

Waterloo.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Medium  to 
large,  round,  with  a  deep  suture  on  one  side;  pale  whit- 
ish-green in  the  shade,  marbled  red,  deepening  into  dark 
purple-crimson  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  greenish-white,  with  an 
abundance  of  sweet,  vinous  juice  ;  adheres  considerablv 
to  the  stone,  like  Hale's  Early,  Amsden,  etc. — The  first 
fruit  shown  of  this  sort  ripened  from  eight  to  ten  days 
earlier  tlian  Alexander.  Subsequent  crops  ripened  about 
the  same  time  as  Alexander  and  Amsden.  In  point  of 
quality,  Waterloo  is  superior  to  either  of  these  sorts,  and 
seems  less  disposed  to  decay. 

Wheatland. — American.  Gl.  ren.,  fl.  1.  Large  to  very 
large,  roundish,  a  distinct  suture  on  one  side;  skin  golden- 


PEACHES.  409 

ycIIoWj  with  crimson  on  the  exposed  side;  flesh  yellow, 
rather  juicy,  sweet,  and  excellent.  F. — Ripens  between 
Crawford's  Early  and  Late.     Tree  vigorous  and  prolific. 

Yello^v  Aiberge  (Barnard's  Yellow). — GI.  glob., 
fl.  s.  Frait  niediuni  or  above  in  size,  roundish;  yellow, 
with  a  deep  puiplish-red  check;  flesh  yelloAV,  deep  red  at 
the  stone,  juicy,  .sweet,  vinous,  pleasant.  F. — Early  Sep- 
tember. Trej  hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  This 
old  French  peacli  Jiolds  a  popular  position  as  a  reliable 
and  profitable  variety,  although  of  only  second-rate 
quality.  Many  seedlings  have  been  grown  from  it,  al- 
most identical  with  the  parent. 

Yellow  Rareripe.— American.  Gl.  glob.,  fl.  s.  Large, 
roundish  ;  orange-yellow,  a  rich,  red  cheek,  shaded  off 
and  striped;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  melting, 
juicy,  vinous,  excellent.  F. — Last  of  August.  Tree 
vigorous  and  productive.  One  of  the  best  and  most 
profitable  very  early  yellow-fleshed  peaches  grown. 

Brice's  Early,  Brigg's  Red  May,  Bower's  Early,  Cum- 
berland, Downing,  Early  Canada,  Gov.  Garland,  Harper's 
Early,  Honeywell,  Musser,  Saunders,  and  "Wilder,  being 
nearly  alike  in  size,  flavor,  growth,  and  period  of  ripen- 
ing, and  showing  no  superiority  over  Alexander,  we 
do  not  consider  them  of  sufficient  importance  to  be  de- 
scribed separately. 

I  SELECT   GARDEN   VARIETIES. 

Named  in  order  of  ripening. — AVaterloo,  Alexander, 
Early  Louise,  Early  Rivers,  Hale's  Early,  Large  Early 
York,  Cooledge's  Favorite,  George  the  Fourth,  Early 
Silver,  Foster,  Crawford's  Early,  Conkling,  Oldmixon 
Free,  Princess  of  Wales,  Crawford's  Late,  Ward's  Late 
Free. 

Varieties  ge^ierally  successful  in  New  England,  Western 
New  York,  Ohio,  and  Michigan  iti  order  of  ripening. — 
18 


410  SELECT  VARIETTES   OF  FRUITS. 

Waterloo,  Alexander,  Early  Louise,  Early  Rivers,  Hale's 
Early,  Early  York,  Largo  Early  York,  Haines'  Early, 
Coolcdge's  Favorite,  George  the  Fourth,  Foster,  Craw- 
ford's Early,  Surpasse  Melocoton,  Conkling,  Morris 
White,  Oldmixon  Free,  Crawford's  Late,  Eed  Cheek 
Melocoton,  Stump  the  World,  Smock  Free,  Hill's  Chili, 
Ward's  Late  Free. 

Varieties  for  Profitable  Market  Orchards  in  order  of 
ripening. —  Waterloo,  Alexander,  Early  Rivers,  Hale's 
Early,  Mountain  Rose,  Large  Early  York,  Cooledge's 
Favorite,  Foster,  Crawford's  Early,  Jacques'  Rareripe, 
Morris  White,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Oldmixon  Free,  Craw- 
ford's Late,  Red  Cheek  Melocoton,  Stump  the  World, 
Smock. 

Varieties  successful  South  and  South-west  in  order  of 
ripening.  —  Alexander,  Early  Beatrice,  Early  Rivers, 
Hale's  Early,  Early  Tillotson,  George  the  Fourth,  Fleita's 
St.  John,  Mountain  Rose,  Crawford's  Early,  Reeve's 
Favorite,  Oldmixon  Free,  Crawford's  Late,  Thurber, 
Chinese  Cling,  Oldmixon  Cling,  Stump  the  World, 
Columbia,  Druid  Hill,  Smock,  La  Grange,  Heath  Cling 
Steadley,  Picquet's  Late,  Bilyeu's  Late  October. 

Section'  7. — Select  Plums. 

Autumn  Gag^e. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  oval, 
broadest  at  the  stem  end;  pale  yellow,  with  a  thin, 
whitish  bloom;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  jileas- 
ant,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. — September.  Tree 
a  vigorous,  spreading  grower,  and  an  abundant  bearer. 

Belle  de  Septenibrc. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  round- 
ish, inclining  to  oval;  reddish-pnrple,  with  a  thin  blue 
bloom;  flesh  orange-yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  rich, 
adheres  to  the  stone. — September  and  October.  Tree  a 
moderate  grower  and  productive.  A  very  handsome  and 
valuable  late  plum. 


PLUMS.  411 

BIceckcr's  Gaffe. — Origin  New  York.  Me<Hnm  or 
above,  roundish-ov;il  ;  yellowish,  with  a  thin,  white 
bloom;  flesh  yellow,  Juiey,  rich,  sweet,  excellent,  sepa- 
rates freely  from  the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a 
good  grower  and  ])roductive. 

Blue  Imperatrice. — Medium,  oval-obovate;  deep  pur- 
ple, covered  with  a  thick,  blue  bloom;  flesh  greenish- 
yellow,  rich,  and  sugary,  adhering  to  the  stone. — October, 
and  will  keep  i?ito  November.  Tree  vigorous  and  a 
heavy  bearer.     Valuable  on  account  of  its  lateness. 

Bradshaw. — Large,  oval-obovate;  reddish-purple,  with 
a  light,  blue  bloom;  flesh  rather  coarse,  juicy,  brisk, 
pleasant,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — August.  Tree  an 
upright,  vigorous  grower,  j)roductive  and  profitable. 

Bryanston's  Ga^e.— Medium,  oval;  pale  yellow,  with 
a  bronze  cheek  in  the  sun;  flesh  a  little  coarse,  Juicy, 
sweet,  pleasant,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — September 
and  October. 

€oe's  Golden  Drop.— Origin  England.  Large,  oval, 
distinct  suture;  light  yellow,  with  dark,  carmine-red 
spots  in  the  sun;  flesh  yellowish,  firm,  juicy,  rich,  ad- 
heres to  the  stone. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  moder- 
ately vigoroas  grower,  hardy,  and  a  great  bearer.  Widely 
disseminated  and  highly  esteemed. 

Columbia. — Origin  New  York.  Large  or  very  large, 
nearly  round;  brownish-reddish-purple,  covered  with  a 
blue  bloom;  flesh  orange,  sweet,  and  rich,  separates  from 
the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  very  vigorous 
grower,  and  productive.     A  valuable  market  sort. 

Denniston's  Superb. — Origin  New  York.  Medium  or 
below,  roundish,  flattened;  pale,  but  rich  yellow,  blotches 
of  purple  in  the  sun;  thin,  white  bloom;  flesh  juicy,  rich, 
sweet,  vinous,  separates  from  the  stone. — Last  of  August. 
Tree  moderately  vigorous,  forming  a  small,  round  head. 


412  SELECT  TARIETIES   OP   FRUITS. 

Diiane's  Purple.— Origin  New  York.  Large,  oval, 
distinct  suture,  one  side  enlarged;  pale  red,  becoming 
reddish-purple  in  the  sun,  lilac  bloom;  flesh  amber-color, 
juicy,  sprightly,  moderately  sweet,  adlieres  partially  to 
the  stone. — Middle  to  last  of  August,  Tree  very  vigorous 
and  prodnctive. 

Fellember^. — Origin  Europe.  Medium,  oval;  dark 
blue,  with  a  bloom;  flesh  dark  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  and 
good,  separates  from  the  stone. — -Early  in  October.  An 
old,  Italian  prune,  a  moderate,  spreading  grower,  great 
bearer,  and  very  valuable. 

General  Hand. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Very  large, 
roundish-oval;  deep  yellow,  marbled  with  greenish- 
yellow;  flesh  coarse,  pale  yellow,  sweet,  moderately  juicy, 
separates  freely  from  the  stone. — September.  Tree  very 
vigorous  and  productive.     Fine  for  market. 

German  Prune. — Medium,  long-oval,  one  side  swollen; 
purple,  with  a  thick,  blue  bloom;  flesh  firm,  not  juicy, 
greenish,  sweet,  pleasant,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— September.  Tree  a  good  grower,  very  productive. 
Valuable  for  market  and  highly  esteemed  for  drying. 

Goliath. — Large,  roundish-oblong;  deep  red,  approach- 
ing purple,  with  a  thin,  blue  bloom;  flesh  yellow,  adheres 
considerably  to  the  stone,  juicy,  with  a  brisk,  pleasant 
flavor. — Last  of  August.  Tree  vigorous  and  a  very  great 
yielder. 

Green  Ga^e,— Origin  France.  Eather  small,  round; 
yellowish-green,  with  dottings  of  red  in  the  sun;  flesh 
pale  green,  exceedingly  juicy  and  melting,  rich,  sprightly, 
luscious,  separates  from  the  stone. — Middle  of  August. 
Tree  a  short-jointed,  healtliy,  but  slow  grower,  making  a 
small,  round  head,  and  bearing  abundantly.  Has  no 
superior  in  quality;  suitable  for  a  choice  garden  collec- 
tion. 

Huling's  Superb. — Origin  Pennsylvania.     Very  large, 


PLUMS.  413 

roundish-oval,  shallow  suture;  greenish-yellow,  covered 
with  a  thin,  pale  bloom;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  rather 
coarse,  rich,  brisk,  sprightly,  adheres  to  the  stone. — 
Middle  of  August.  Tree  a  fair,  upright  grower,  with 
large  foliage,  a  good,  moderate  bearer. 

Ickworth  Imp^ratricc. — Origin  England.  Rather 
above  medium,  obovate;  purple,  traced  with  fawn;  flesh 
greenish-yellow,  sweet.  Juicy,  rich,  adheres  partially  to 
the  stone. — Early  October.  Tree  a  good,  fair  grower, 
productive.  Valuable  for  its  late  ripening,  and  for  its 
peculiarity  of  hanging  a  long  time  on  the  treo  as  well  as 
for  keeping  after  being  gathered. 

Imperial  Gage. — Origin  Xew  York.  Rather  above 
medium,  oval,  suture  distinct;  green,  until  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  known  by  the  peculiar  marbling  of  two  shades 
of  green,  white  bloom;  flesh  greenish,  very  juicy,  rich, 
melting,  pleasant  flavor,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— Early  September.  Tree  one  of  the  best  of  growers,  and 
productive;  everywhere  popular  and  profitable  for  market 
or  garden. 

Jefferson. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish-oval; 
golden-yellow,  with  a  beautiful  red  cheek;  flesh  orange- 
yellow,  juicy,  rich,  luscious,  separates  freely  from  the 
stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  moderate,  rather  slow 
grower,  but  a  regular,  good  bearer.  One  of  the  best  in 
quality. 

July  Green  Gage. — Medium,  roundish-oblong,  suture 
distinct;  greenish-yellow,  tinted  with  purple  in  the  sun; 
flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  separates  from  the  stone. — 
Last  of  August.     Tree  a  moderate  grower,  productive. 

Lawrence's  Favorite.— Origin  New  York.     Medium, 

roundish,  a  little  flattened;  dull,  yellowish-green,  clouded 
with  streaks  of  a  dark  shade;  flesh  greenish,  juicy,  melt- 
ing, rich,  sprightly,  delicate,  vinous,  separates  freely  froni 


414  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

the  stone. — Middle  of  August.  Tree  vigorous,  upright, 
very  productive. 

Lombard. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  rouudish- 
oval;  violet-red,  thin  bloom;  flesh  deep  yellow,  Juicy, 
pleasant,  not  rich,  adhering  to  the  stone. — Last  of 
August.  Tree  vigorous,  a  great  bearer.  Profitable  for 
market,  and  succeeds  where  many  other  sorts  fail. 

Liicombe's  IVonsuch, — Origin  England.  Above  me- 
dium, roundish;  yellowish-green,  distinctly  streaked  with 
yellow  and  orange;  flesh  pretty  firm,  greenish,  adheres  to 
the  stone. — Early  September.  Tree  moderately  vigorous, 
very  productive. 

illa^iium  Boiiiim,  Yellow  (Yellow  Egg,  etc.). — A 
po})ular  old  variety,  with  some  twenty  synonyms.  Large, 
or  very  large,  egg-shajje,  or  oval;  yellow,  with  white 
dots  and  a  thin  bloom;  flesii  yellow,  acid  until  fully  ripe, 
when  it  is  sweet,  adheres  to  the  stone. — Last  of  August. 
Tree  very  vigorous,  productive.  Valued  for  market  and 
cooking. 

McLaui^hliu. — Origin  Maine.  Large,  roundish,  flat- 
tened at  ends;  yellow,  dotted  and  marbled  with  red  in 
the  sun,  thin  bloom;  flesh  yellow,  rather  firm,  juicy,  very 
sweet,  delicious,  adheres  to  the  stone. — Last  of  August. 
Tree  a  hardy,  vigorous  grower,  productive.  One  of  the 
most  valuable. 

Monroe  Gage. — Origin  New  York.  Rather  above 
medium,  oval;  greenish-yellow,  rarely  with  ablush;  flesh 
greenish-yellow,  not  very  tender,  but  sweet. — Early  Sep- 
tember.    Tree  vigorous,  productive. 

Ontario. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish;  yellow, 
marbled;  flesh  moderately  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  adheres  to 
the  stone. — Early  in  August.  Tree  a  good  grower  and 
very  productive.  Originated  by  Ellwanger  &  Barry, 
Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Orange,— Origin  New  York,     Large,  oval,  flattened; 


PLUMS.  415 

brouze-yellow,  cloudod  with  inirplish-rcd  near  tlio  stalk; 
flesh  yellow,  a  little  coarse,  moderately  juicy,  and  good. 
— Last  of  August.  Growtli  very  vigorous,  and  the  tree 
hears  abundant  cro^is. 

Oullhrs^  Golden  Ga^c. — Origin  Germany.  Large, 
roundish-oblong;  yellow,  flecked  with  green,  small,  crim- 
son dots  in  the  sun,  and  a  thin,  white  bloom;  flesh  tender, 
juicy,  sugary,  excellent,  adhering  slightly  to  the  stone. 
Tree  vigorous  and  productive.     A  valuable  early  plum. 

Orleans. — See  Smith's  Orleans. 

Peters'  Yellow  (iage. — Origin  New  York.  Medium, 
roundish-oval ;  yellow,  with  crimson  dots  in  the  sun, 
thin,  light  bloom  ;  flesh  yellowish,  juicy,  adheres  slightly 
to  the  stone. — Middle  of  August.  Tree  a  moderately 
vigorous  grower  ;  an  abundant  bearer. 

Pond's  Seedlini?. — Origin  England.  Very  large,  oval ; 
yellowish,  covered  with  violet-red,  thin,  white  bloom  ; 
flesh  yellow,  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  sugary. — Middle  of 
September.  Tree  a  good  grower,  and  an  abundant  bear- 
er ;  a  beautiful  fruit. 

Prince  En^lebert. — Origin  Belgium.  Large,  oblong- 
oval  ;  deep  purple,  with  a  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  yellowish- 
green,  juicy,  sugary,  rich,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— Last  of  August.  Tree  vigorous,  a  great  bearer.  Very 
valuable  for  market,  dessert,  or  cooking. 

Prune  d'Affen  (Robe  de  Sergent,  etc.). — Origin 
France.  Medium,  oval  ;  violet-piirple,  with  a  thick 
bloom  ;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  and 
delicious,  adheres  slightly  to  the  stone. — Last  of  Sep- 
tember.    Tree  a  moderate  grower,  very  prolific. 

Quackenboss. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  roundish- 
oblong  ;  deep  purple,  covered  with  blue  bloom  ;  flesh 
greenish-yellow,  a  little  coarse,  juicy,  s])rightly,  sweet, 
adheres  slightly  to  the  stone.— September.  Tree  a  very 
rapid,  upright  grower,  and  productive. 


416  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

Reine  Claude  de  Bavay  (Bavay's  Green  Gage). — 
Origin  Belgium.  Large,  roundish,  a  little  flattened; 
greenish-yellow,  with  splashes  of  green,  thin  bloom;  flesh 
yellow,  juicy,  sugary,  melting,  rich,  excellent,  separates 
from  the  stone. — Last  of  September.  Tree  a  vigorous 
grower,  and  very  productive.  One  of  the  best  in  quality, 
very  valuable,  and  extensively  planted  as  a  late  market 
sort. 

Saint  Catherine. — Origin  France.  Medium,  obovate, 
deep  suture  ;  pale  yellow,  a  little  reddish  in  the  sun, 
thin,  white  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  rather  firm,  and 
adhering  partly  to  the  stone. — Middle  to  last  of  Septem- 
ber. Tree  an  upright,  rather  slender  grower  ;  pro- 
ductive.    Highly  prized  for  drying. 

Saint  Lawrence. — Origin  New  York.  Large,  dark 
purple  ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  adheres  to  the  stone. 
— September.  Tree  a  good  grower,  productive. — Origi- 
nated in  the  grounds  of  EUwanger  &  Barry,  Rochester, 
N.  Y.,  from  a  seed  of  Smith's  Orleans. 

Shropshire  Damson.— Origin  England.  Medium  to 
small,  oval  ;  dark  purple  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  separates 
freely  from  the  stone. — October.  Tree  healthy  and  pro- 
ductive.    One  of  the  best  of  the  Damsons. 

Smith's  Orleans. — Origin  Long  Island.  Large,  round- 
ish-oval ;  reddish-purple,  covered  with  a  blue  bloom  ; 
flesh  deep  yellow,  a  little  firm,  very  juicy,  brisk,  vinous, 
adheres  to  the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  vigorous 
and  very  productive.  One  of  the  most  valuable  for  or- 
chard or  garden. 

Victoria  (Sharp's  Emperor,  etc.).— Origin  England. 
Large,  roundish-oval  ;  light  yellow,  marbled,  spotted, 
and  shaded  with  lilac  and  purple,  thin,  lilac  bloom  ;  flesh 
yellow,  coarse,  not  juicy  or  sugary,  a  little  vinous,  and 
separates  from  the  stone.— Middle  of  September.     Tree 


PLUMS.  417 

vigorous,  but  irregular  iu  growth,  productive.  A  plum 
of  the  largest  size,  showy,  and  valuable  for  market. 

Wan^enheim. — Origin  Germany.  Medium,  oval;  deep 
purple,  thick,  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  rather 
firm.  Juicy,  sugary,  rich,  separates  from  the  stone. — Last 
of  August.  Tree  a  moderate  grower,  but  good  bearer. 
One  of  the  best  of  the  sorts  designated  as  prunes. 

Washington. — Origin  New  York.  Large  to  very  large, 
roundish-oval ;  dull  or  deep  yellow,  with  marblings  of 
green,  with  a  pale  red  or  crimson  blush  in  the  sun  ;  flesh 
yellow,  firm,  very  sweet  and  rich,  separates  freely  from 
the  stone. — Last  of  August.  Tree  a  stocky,  vigorous, 
healthy  grower,  very  productive.  One  of  the  most  reli- 
able for  market  or  garden. 

Yellow  Gaffe  (Prince's). — Origin  Long  Island.  Me- 
dium to  large,  oval,  broadest  next  the  stalk  ;  golden-yel- 
low, covered  with  a  white  bloom  ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  rich, 
sugary,  juicy,  melting,  separates  freely  from  the  stone. 
— Early  in  August.  Tree  very  vigorous,  forming  a  large, 
spreading  head,  very  hardy  and  productive.  A  popular 
and  profitable  variety. 

SMALL  SELECT    LISTS   OF   PLUMS. 

For  the  Garden. — Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Green  Gage, 
Prince  Englebert,  Jefferson,  Fellemberg,  Smith's  Orleans, 
Reine  Claude  de  Bavay,  McLaughlin,  Washington. 

For  Market. — Yellow  Magnum  Bonum,  Smith's  Or- 
leans, Pond's  Seedling,  Lombard,  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay, 
Bradshaw,  General  Hand,  Quackenboss,  Fellemberg, 
German  Prune. 

For  Drying. — German  Prune,  Saint  Catherine,  Fellem- 
berg. 

NATIVE    PLUMS   OR   VARIETIES   OF   AMERICAN"   SPECIES. 

Comprising  varieties  of  value  only  where  the  finer  Eu- 
ropean sorts  cannot  be  oultivated, 


418  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

De  Caradeuc. — Origin  the  Soutliern  States.  Fruit 
small  or  medium,  roundish-oblate ;  skin  pale  yellow, 
waxy  looking,  with  a  brownish-red  cheek  ;  flesh  juicy, 
sweet ;  cling. — July.  Supposed  to  be  a  hybrid  between 
the  Chickasaw  and  a  European  variety.  Said  to  be  a 
valuable  early  market  variety  at  the  South. 

Lanjs^don. — Origin  Illinois.  Fruit  small  or  medium, 
round,  like  a  large  cherry  ;  skin  dark  red,  thick,  an(i 
tough  ;  flesh  firm,  flavor  medium. — Eipens  late  in  Oc- 
tober.    Tree  a  moderate  grower. 

Miner, — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Fruit  medium^  oblong, 
pointed  ;  skin  deep  red,  thick;  flesh  soft,  juicy,  vinous, 
adheres  to  the  stone. — Eipens  late  in  October.  Tree 
vigorous. 

IVewman. — Fruit  medium,  roundish-oval;  skin  a  beau- 
tiful glossy-red  color,  with  a  delicate,  purple  bloom;  flesh 
juicy,  melting,  vinous.  —  Commences  to  ripen  early  in 
October,  and  continues  through  the  month.  Tree  vig- 
orous, hardy,  and  productive.  Eanks  next  in  value  to 
the  Wild  Uoose. 

Weaver. — Origin  Iowa.  Said  to  be  of  value  for  the 
West  and  extreme  Kortli  on  account  of  its  hardiness. 

Wild  Goose. — Origin  unknown.  A  variety  of  the 
Chickasaw.  Fruit  medium,  oval;  skin  bright  vermilion- 
red;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet;  cling. — Eipens  the  latter 
part  of  July  and  first  of  August.  Tree  vigorous  and 
productive.  Valuable  on  account  of  its  earliness  and 
beauty. 


CURRANTS.  419 

THIRD    DIVISION.— SMALL   FRUITS. 

CURRANTS,    GOOSEBERRIES,     RASPBERRIES,    STRAW- 
BERRIES, BARBERRIES,    BLACKBERRIES,    MUL- 
BERRIES,   GRAPES,    AND   FIGS. 

Section  8.— Select  Currants. 

The  Currant  is  a  most  useful  fruit,  indeed  indispensable 
to  every  garden,  large  or  small;  it  tills  a  space  of  a  couple 
of  weeks  after  the  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  cherries, 
and  before  the  apricots,  early  ai)ples,  and  pears;  and  be- 
sides this,  it  possesses  a  remarkable  combination  of  sweet 
and  acid,  that  fits  it  for  an  almost  endless  variety  of  use- 
ful and  agreeable  preparations,  both  in  the  green  and 
ripe  state. 

The  white  varieties  are  mildest  flavored,  and  therefore 
better  for  using  in  a  raw  state  when  ripe.  The  red  are 
preferable  for  jellies,  etc.,  on  account  of  their  beautiful 
color. 

Black  IVaples, — One  of  the  largest  and  best  black  cur- 
rants; bears  profusely.     Valuable  for  jam  and  jellies. 

Cherry. — Very  large,  exceeding  an  inch  in  circumfer- 
ence, bunches  short,  color  dark  red,  ripens  at  the  same 
time  as  Red  Dutch;  shoots  stout,  short-jointed,  and  erect, 
foliage  thick,  dark  green,  slightly  folded,  and  bluntly 
and  coarsely  serrated.  Mr.  Lewelling,  of  California,  has 
40  acres  planted  Avith  this  variety;  we  saw  the  plantation 
in  full  fruit  in  1870.  It  is  stated  that  the  crop  of  1871 
was  150,000  lbs.,  sold  at  from  8  cents  to  15  cents  per 
pound. 

Fay.'s  Prolific. — Origin  Chatauqua  Co.,  N.  Y.  Said 
to  be  a  cross  between  Cherry  and  Victoria.  Color  rich 
red;  described  as  being  as  large  as  the  Cherry,  but  more 
prolific  and  les§  acid. 


420         SELECT  VAEIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

La  Versaillaise. — Similar  to  the  Cherry  in  all  respects, 
so  much  so  as  to  be  si;pposed  by  many  to  be  identical;  it 
is  generally  believed  that  it  is  less  acid  and  the  bunches 
a  little  longer ;  a  very  vigorous  grower,  productive,  and 
highly  valued. 

Lee's  Black  Prolific. — Origin  England.  Described  as 
being  larger  than  Black  Naples,  and  very  productive. 

Lon^-Bunched  Red. — Much  like  Red  Dutch,  but  with 
clusters  longer  and  larger,  and  rather  larger  fruit ;  a 
strong-growing,  productive,  and  valuable  variety. 

Prince  Albert. — A  moderate  grower,  with  large,  stiff, 
deeply-cut  foliage,  very  productive;  valued  for  its  late 
ripening;  fruit  light  red,  large,  acid. 

Red  Dutch. — A  well-known  sort,  generally  superseded 
by  the  larger  varieties. 

Sliort-Biinclied  Red. — A  strong,  upright  grower;  ber- 
ries large;  bunches  short;  mild  acid. 

Victoria  or  Hoii^liton  ('astle. — Very  large,  bright  red, 
bunches  five  or  six  inches  long;  hangs  on  the  bushes  after 
others  are  gone  ;  distinguished  at  once  by  its  remarkably 
long  bunches  and  bright  red  color,  and  by  the  foliage, 
which  is  quite  distinct,  dark  green,  coarsely  and  bluntly 
gerrated,  quite  flat,  and  frequently  reflexed  or  turned 
backwards  at  the  edges  ;  the  shoots  are  not  so  stout  and 
erect  as  those  of  the  Cherry. 

White  Dutch. — Yellowish-white,  transparent,  milder 
than  the  red,  and  better  for  using  raw  ;  excellent. 

White  Grape. — Larger  every  way  than  the  preceding; 
the  largest  white  currant ;  growth  rather  spreading,  fo- 
liage thicker,  deeper  green,  and  moi-e  reflexed.  There 
are  several  other  sorts  under  cultivation,  of  little  value, 
unless  to  those  who  are 
curiosity  and  experiment. 


gooseberries.  421 

Section  9. — Gooseberries, 
class  i. — english  varieties. 

The  followiag,  from  the  large  English  sorts,  have  all 
proved  excellent.  In  our  climate  these  are  all  more  or 
less  subject  to  mildew. 

Red. — Ashton,  Comi)anion,  Conquering  Hero,  Crown 
Bob,  Dan's  Mistake,  Ironsides,  Ironmonger,  Lion's  Pro- 
vider, Speedwell,  Talfourd. 

White. — Freedom,  Jenny  Liud,  Lady  Leicester,  Mayor 
of  Oldham,  Patience,  Whitesmith,  White  Swan. 

Green. — Fair  Helen,  Great  Britain,  Thumper,  Turn 
Out,  Stockwell,  Surprise. 

Yellow. — Champagne,  Gunner,  Gipsy  Queen,  High 
Sheriff,  Railway,  Yellow  Sulphur. 

CLASS    II. — AMERICAN   VARIETIES. 

American  Seedling  (Pale  Eed). — A  vigorous  grower, 
bush  upright,  with  slender  wood;  verj^  productive,  never 
mildews ;  fruit  medium  to  small,  pale  red,  sweet,  good ; 
hangs  a  long  time,  very  valuable. 

Downing. — Originated  at  Newburgh,  N.  Y.  An  up- 
right, strong  grower,  productive;  fruit  medium  or  above, 
roundish-oval;  green,  with  the  rib  veins  distinct,  smooth, 
juicy  ;  good.  The  best  for  family  use  of  any  of  the 
American  sorts, 

Hoii^ktOll's  Seedlill!?,— Raised  in  Massachusetts  from 
the  seed  of  a  native  variety.  It  is  a  vigorous  grower, 
with  drooi)ing  branches,  very  productive  ;  fruit  medium 
or  below,  smooth,  pale  red,  sweet,  very  good. 

Smith's  Improved. — Grown  from  the  seed  of  Hough- 
ton ;  fruit  medium  or  above,  oval ;  light  green  ;  flesh 
moderately  firm,  sweet  and  very  good  ;  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive. 


422  select  varieties  op  fruits. 

Section  10. — Select  Easpberries. 

class  i. — foreign  varieties  and  their  seedlings 
of  american  origin. 

Belle  de  Palluau. — A  French  variety,  with  strong, 
vigorous,  upright  canes  ;  short,  purphsh  spines;  fruit 
large,  conical ;  bright  crimson,  firm,  juicy,  and  rich. 

Clarke. — Origin  New  Haven,  Conn.  Canes  strong  and 
vigorous;  half-hardy  ;  long  spines,  fruit  large,  conical, 
bright  crimson,  rather  soft,  juicy,  excellent ;  ])roduces 
suckers  freely  ;  succeeds  finely  in  light  soils. 

Fastolf. — Canes  very  strong,  nearly  hardy,  erect, 
branching  ;  fruit  very  large,  roundish,  conical ;  i)Lirplisli 
red,  rich,  fine  flavor  ;  productive. 

Franconia.  —  Canes  strong,  branching,  yellowish- 
brown;  short,  stout,  purple  spines;  fruit  large,  obtuse, 
conical,  purplish-red,  pretty  firm,  rich  acid  ;  one  of  the 
hardiest  of  this  class;  productive  and  iirofital)le. 

French  (Vice-President  French). — Origin  Phila- 
delphia, Pa.  Canes  strong,  upright;  spines  short  and 
stout ;  fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish,  rich,  bright 
crimson,  large  grains,  sweet  and  very  good. 

Herstine. — Origin  Philadelphia,  Pa.  Canes  strong,  of 
a  light  color;  spines  green;  fruit  large,  conical;  crimson, 
moderately  firm;  sub-acid  and  good.  Season  quite  early. 
Plant  vigorous  and  very  productive.  Valuable  for  family 
use  and  near  market. 

Horneti — A  French  variety,  with  strong,  upright,  vig- 
orous canes;  stout,  purplish  spines  ;  fruit  large,  conical, 
rather  firm,  crimson  red,  juicy,  sweet. 

Hudson  River  Antwerp  (Red  Antwerp  of  the  Hud- 
soisr  River). — Origin  unknown.  Has  been  long  and  prof- 
itably cultivated  along  the  Hudson  River,  where  it  is 
esteemed  most  valuable  of  all  sorts  for  market.  The  crop 


RASPBERRIES.  433 

from  three  acres  has  in  one  season  sold  for  11,500.  Canes 
short,  stout,  ahnost  spineless. 

Knevett's  (iiant.— A  very  strong  grower,  erect,  small, 
reddish  spines  ;  fruit  large,  obtuse,  conical,  deep  red, 
firm,  rich  ;  almost  hardy  and  very  productive. 

Oraiiffe  (Brinckle's  Orange).— Origin  Philadelphia, 
Pa.  Canes  strong,  branched,  Avhite  spines  ;  fruit  large, 
conical,  clear  orange  yellow,  juicy,  rather  soft,  sweet, 
rich,  and  excellent ;  the  best  of  all  light-colored  varieties. 

Pariicll. — Large,  long,  dark  red,  moderately  firm, 
jwicy,  and  of  fair  quality  ;  quite  hardy  and  productive. 

Red  Antwerp. — This  is  the  common  Eed  Antwerp  of 
England  ;  distinct  from  the  Hudson  River  Antwerp. 
Canes  tall  and  strong;  light,  red  spines;  fruit  large, 
obtuse,  conical,  dark  red,  juicy,  brisk,  vinous,  fine 
flavor. 

Victoria. — An  English  variety  of  rather  dwarf  habit ; 
fruit  very  large,  dark  red. 

CLASS    II. — AMERICAN    SPECIES  AND  VARIETIES,    BLACK 
CAPS,    ETC. 

American  Black  €ap  (Doolittle,  Joslyn's  Black 
Cap,  etc.). — A  hardy  native  variety,  improved  by  culti- 
vation, very  productive  ;  one  of  the  best  of  its  class  for 
profitable  market  growing,  as  it  ripens  early  and  carries 
well. 

Brandywine  (Susqueco). — Origin  unknown.  Medium 
to  large  ;  bright  scarlet ;  firm,  moderately  juicy,  quality 
inferior  ;  canes  stocky  and  of  a  reddish  color.  Consid- 
ered valuable  for  market  on  account  of  its  hardiness, 
productiveness,  and  firmness. 

('aroline. — Origin  New  York.  Medium,  roundish- 
oblate  ;  pale  salmon  ;  flesh  soft,  juicy,  with  a  sub-acid 
flavor,  of  fair  quality.     The  plant  is  hardy  and  prolific ; 


424  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

it  is  propagated  both  from  tips  and  suckers.  Valuable 
only  for  home  use  or  near  market,  being  too  soft  for  ship- 
ping. 

Ciithbcrt  (Queen  of  the  Market). — Origin  New 
York.  Large,  roundish-conical ;  bright  red,  firm,  mod- 
erately jniey,  of  fair  quality  ;  canes  tall;,  strong,  vigorous, 
upright ;  plant  hardy  and  productive.  Season  medium 
to  late.     Promises  to  become  a  popular  market  sort. 

Greg^.^Origin  Indiana.  Large,  roundish-oblate ; 
black,  with  bloom  ;  flesh  quite  firm,  moderately  juicy, 
sweet ;  plant  vigorous  and  productive.  Ripens  late. 
This  is  the  largest  of  the  Black  Cap  family,  and  the  most 
popular  market  berry. 

Highland  Hardy. — Medium  to  small  ;  red ;  flavor 
poor.  It  is  grown  profitably  in  some  localities  on  account 
of  its  earliness. 

Miami  (Mammoth  Cluster,  McCormick). — One  of 
the  best  of  the  Black  Caps  ;  ripens  a  little  earlier  than 
Gregg. 

Philadelphia, — A  variety  found  wild  in  the  County  of 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  Fruit  medium,  roundish;  dark  crim- 
son, moderately  firm,  mild  sub-acid,  of  inferior  quality ; 
a  hardy  variety,  succeeding  on  light  soils  and  in  latitudes 
where  the  Antwerps  cannot  well  be  grown.  Formerly  it 
was  grown  extensively  for  market,  but  is  now  nearly 
superseded. 

Iteliance. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  roundish  ; 
dark  red,  quite  firm,  with  a  sprightly  flavor ;  canes 
strong,  with  greenish  spines  ;  vigorous  and  productive. 
Season  medium  to  late.  May  be  described  as  an  improved 
"Philadelphia." 

Seneca  Black  €ap, — A  variety  of  the  Black  Cap, 
larger  and  later  than  the  American,  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  has  a  shade  of  purple,  with  a  light  bloom, 
juicy  and  sweet. 


RASPBERRIES.  425 

Soilhoiifail. — Originated  in  the  valley  of  the  Souhegan 
Eiver,  New  Hampshire,  in  ]  870,  from  seed  of  the  Doo- 
little.  Said  to  be  the  earliest  of  all  the  Black  Caps. 
Berries  large,  Jet  black,  without  bloom  ;  plant  hardy  and 
productive. 

Thwack.— Origin  Missouri.  A  red  variety  of  indif- 
ferent flavor,  but  esteemed  at  the  West  and  South-west  for 
market,  on  account  of  its  hardiness  and  firmness. 

Turner. — Origin  Jacksonville,  111.  Medium,  roundish- 
conical  ;  bright  scarlet ;  flesh  soft,  sweet,  pleasant ; 
season  early  ;  very  productive  and  extremely  hardy  ;  val- 
uable for  family  use  and  near  market.  A  favorite  at  the 
West  especially,  on  acnount  of  its  hardiness. 


CLASS  III — AUTUM]SrAL  BEARING   VARIETIES. 

The  product  of  this  class  of  Raspberries  is  upon  the 
ends  of  the  canes  of  the  p'-esent  season's  growth,  and  to 
insure  a  full  autumn  crop,  all  the  old  canes  should  be  cut 
away  in  the  spring,  and  all  the  suckers  kept  down,  con- 
fining the  new  growth  to  the  few  strong,  vigorous  canes. 

Belle  de  Fontenay.— A  French  variety,  with  stout, 
branching  canes,  and  an  ovor-abundance  of  suckers, 
which  must  be  cut  away  as  so  many  weeds,  in  order  to 
insure  a  crop  ;  fruit,  large,  roundish,  conical,  ])urplish- 
red,  sprightly,  moderately  firm,  ai)d  rich. 

Ulerveille  des  Qiiatre  Saison»  (October  Red).— A 
French  variety,  Avith  strong,  upright  canes  and  purple 
spines  ;  fruit  medium,  roundish,  somewhat  conical,  bright 
red,  rather  soft,  Juicy,  sweet,  a)id  rich. 

Ohio  EverbeariDff. — A  variety  of  the  American  Black 
Cap,  identical  in  every  respect,  excep<^  tha^-  i^.  has  th3 
habit  of  fruiting  in  Autumn. 


426  SELECT  VARIETIES  OP   FRUITS. 

CLASS  IV. — VARIETIES    OF    RASPBERRIES    NOT  YET   SUFFI- 
CIENTLY TESTED  TO  BE  PUT  INTO  THE  SELECT  LIST. 

Baiiniforth's  Seedling. — Origin  England.  A  new 
variety  raised  from  the  seed  of  the  Northumberland  Fill- 
basket,  and  described  as  follows:  "The  plant  is  of  a 
stronger  constitution  than  its  parent,  and  more  prodr.c- 
tive;  fruit  one-third  larger  and  of  a  richer  crimson  color; 
flavor  rich  with  a  fine  aroma." 

Crimson  Beauty. — Originated  by  Dr.  Stayman,  of 
Kansas.  A  new  variety,  described  as  follows:  "Very 
large,  bright  glossy  scarlet,  round  to  oblong,  earlier  than 
the  Turner,  of  a  more  pleasant  sprightly  flavor,  equally 
hardy,  more  productive,  and  of  a  much  larger  size;  the 
earliest  of  all." 

Hansen. — Origin  New  Jersey.  A  new  variety,  described 
as  follows:  "Medium  to  large;  bright  crimson;  very 
firm;  flavor  fine;  canes  vigorous,  productive,  and  entirely 
hardy.     The  earliest  of  all  Easpberries." 

Hopkins. — Origin  Missouri.  A  Black  Cap,  described 
as  l)cing  in  all  respects  superior  to  Gregg. 

Lost  Rubies. — Origin  unknown.  Claimed  by  the  dis- 
seminator to  be  "the  brightest,  firmest,  largest,  and  most 
productive  of  all  the  hardy  natives;  exceedingly  vigorous 
and  healthy." 

Marlboro. — A  new  variety,  raised  by  A.  J.  Caywood 
&  Hon,  Marlboro,  N.  Y.  Described  as  hardy,  vigorous, 
and  productive;  fruit  one-fourth  larger  than  the  old 
Hudson  River  Antwerp;  flavor  delicious. 

Montclair. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Described  as  fol- 
lows: "  Medium  to  large,  roundish,  dark  red;  flesh  quite 
firm,  juicy,  sprightly,  of  good  quality;  plant  vigorous 
ajid  productive." 

ShaflTcr's  Colossal. — Origin  Monroe  Co.,  New  York. 
A  recently  introduced  variety.  .  Lt\,rgej  dark  red,  pr  pur-; 


STRAWBERIIIES.  427 

pie ;  flesh  quite  firm,  of  a  sprightly,  sub-acid  flavor; 
very  vigorous,  hardy,  and  productive. 

Superb. — Origin  New  Jersey.  A  new  variety,  des- 
cribed as  "  hirge,  rich,  dark  scarlet;  flavor  remarkably 
tart,  and  juicy,  unlike  any  other  raspberry;  vigorous, 
hardy,  and  productive;  ripens  early,  and  lasts  a  long 
time." 

Tyler. — An  early  variety  of  the  Black  Cap,  described 
as  being  of  good  size  and  quaHty,  jet  black,  without 
bloom,  and  very  productive. 

Welsh. — Origin  New  Jersey.'  A  new  variety,  described 
as  follows:  "Medium  size;  bright  red;  firm,  not  of  liigh 
quality:  canes  vigorous,  productive,  and  unusually  hardy. 
Season  very  early." 

Section  11. — Select  Strawberries. 

Varieties  marked  with  a  ( p)  have  pistillate  or  imper- 
fect flowers,  and  must  be  planted  near  perfect  flowering 
kinds  in  order  that  the  flowers  may  be  fertilized. 

CLASS  I. — AMERICAN   VARIETIES. 

Rid  well. — Origin  Michigan.  Plant  very  vigorous, 
foliage  of  a  light  green  color;  fairly  productive;  fruit 
large  to  very  large,  conical,  generally  regular,  but  occa- 
sionally flattened;  bright,  glossy  crimson,  changing  to 
dark  crimson;  flesh  moderately  firm,  crimson  to  the 
centre,  juicy,  sub-acid,  of  fair  quality,  but  not  liigh 
flavored.     Season  early. 

Charles  Downiiii!:. — Origin  Kentucky.  Plant  very 
vigorous,  productive;  fruit  large,  conical,  pretty  regular, 
scarlet,  firm:  jiinkisli  flesh,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich. 

Crescent  Seedling  (;>).— Origin  Connecticut.  Plant 
very  vigorous  and  hardy,  and  for  productiveness  has  no 
equal;  fruit  medium  to  large,  conical;  color  bright 
scarlet;  flesh  soft,  acid,  inferior  (piality;  very  ])rofitable 


428         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

for  near  market.  Season  early  to  late;  variable  both  in 
quality  and  quantity. 

(iiniberland  Triunipli. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Plant 
vigorous  and  productive;  fruit  large,  ovate-conical,  regu- 
lar, and  uniform,  very  handsome;  color  beautiful  light 
red;  flesh  moderately  firm,  with  a  pleasant  flavor.  Too 
^soft  for  shipping  to  long  distances,  but  valuable  for  the 
amateur  and  near  market.     Season  medium. 

Diichesse. — Origin  'New  York.  Plant  vigorous  and 
productive;  fruit  medium  to  large,  nearly  round,  uni- 
form, light  crimson;  flesh  moderately  firm,  good,  and 
sprightly;  ripens  early  and  lasts  a  long  time;  one  of  the 
most  reliable  early  sorts. 

Green  Prolific  {p). — Origin  New  Jersey.  Plant  vig- 
orous, hardy,  and  very  productive;  valued  for  home  or 
near  market;  does  not  bear  long  transportation;  fruit 
large,  obtuse-conical,  scarlet,  surface  soft;  rather  acid, 
but  rich. 

Hovey  {p). — Origin  Boston,  Mass.  An  old,  well- 
known  sort,  succeeds  in  rich,  good  soils,  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  and  firmest  grown;  plant  vigorous,  moder- 
ately productive;  fruit  large,  or  very  large,  roundish, 
rich,  shining  scarlet;  flesh  firm,  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  agree- 
able; medium  season  of  ripening. 

Kentucky  (Downer). — Origin  Kentucky.  Plant  very 
vigorous,  with  long  fruit  stalks,  hardy  and  prodnctive; 
fruit  large,  roundish-conical,  dark  red,  moderately  firm; 
juicy,  a  little  acid,  rich,  and  good;  a  valuable  late 
variety. 

Lennis's  White. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Plant  moder- 
ately vigorous;  fruit  large,  roundish,  flattened,  whitish, 
tinged  with  red;  flesh  soft,  tender,  jnicy,  a  delicious 
pineapple  flavor,  excellent;  a  poor  bearer,  but  of  such 
superior  quality  as  to  be  desirable  for  the  amateur's 
garden. 


STRAWBERRIES.  429 

Monarch  of  the  West. — Origin  Illinois.  Plant  vigor- 
ous and  productive;  fruit  large,  roundish;  bright  red, 
showy;  flesh  moderately  firm  and  of  good  quality;  season 
medium.  Atone  time  very  popular,  but  gradually  losing 
favor. 

IVeunaii's  Proliflc— A  popular  variety  at  Charleston, 
S.  C. 

IVicanor. — Origin  Rochester,  N.  Y.  Plant  hardy, 
vigorous,  productive,  ripens  early  and  continues  a  long 
time;  fruit  uniform,  moderately  large,  roundish-conical; 
bright  scarlet;  flesh  reddish,  rather  firm,  juicy,  rich, 
sweet. 

President  Wilder. — Originated  by  Hon.  M.  P.  Wilder, 
of  Massachusetts.  Plant  vigorous,  hardy,  productive; 
fruit  large  and  handsome,  obtuse-conical;  bright  crimson- 
scarlet;  flesh  Juicy,  firm,  rich,  sweet,  excellent.  Succeeds 
well  in  some  localities. 

Sharpless. — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Plant  remarkably 
vigorous  and  luxuriant,  hardy  and  prolific;  fruit  very 
large,  generally  oblong,  narrowing  to  the  apex,  irregular, 
often  flattened;  clear,  light  red,  with  a  smooth,  shining 
surface;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  with  a  delicate  aroma;  excel- 
lent quality;  season  medium  to  late.  A.  S,  Fuller,  in 
describing  it,  says:  ''A  genuine  surprise  to  strawberry 
growers  generally,  because  it  has  proved  to  be  all  that 
was  claimed  for  it  at  the  time  of  dissemination."  Of  all 
the  strawberries  introduced  within  the  last  ten  years,  no 
other  has  become  equally  popular.  It  produces  its  best 
crops  grown  in  hills  or  narrow  rows,  and  requires  good 
culture. 

Wilson's  Albany.— Origin  New  York.  The  most 
widely  grown  and  universally  successful  and  profitable  of 
any  strawberry  yet  produced.  Plant  very  hardy,  vigor- 
ous, and  very  productive,  early  to  ripen  and  on  tinn- 
ing to  the  latest  ;  fruit  large,    conical ;   deep  crimson ; 


430  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

flesh  crimson,  tender,   brisk,   juicy,  sub-acid  ,•  will  only 
rank  as  second  or  third  in  quality, 

Windsor  Chief  {p)  (Gardner). — Plant  vigorous  and 
very  productive  ;  fruit  large,  globular  ;  dark  crimson  ; 
flesh  firm  and  good,  though  rather  acid.  One  of  the 
best  late  varieties  for  market. 

CLASS    II. — FOREIGN   VAEIETIES. 

JllClinda. — Phint  moderately  vigorous,  hardy,  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  large  to  very  large  and  beautiful,  conical, 
sometimes  flattened  coxcomb-shape;  clear,  light  scarlet; 
flesh  light  pink,  moderately  firm,  sweet,  often  hollow 
and  deficient  in  flavor  ;  quite  variable ;  succeeds  well 
in  some  localities.     Season  medium  to  late. 

Trioiliplie  de  Gaud. — Plant  vigorous,  hardy,  and  pro- 
ductive ;  fruit  large,  roundish,  obtuse,  sometimes  cox- 
comb-shape ;  bright  red,  greenish  at  apex  end,  glossy ; 
flesh  firm,  a  little  hollow  at  core,  juicy,  rich,  aromatic, 
agreeable.  Tliis  and  Jucunda  are  probably  the  most 
generally  successful  of  the  foreign  sorts. 

Trollope's  Victoria  (Golden  Queen,  etc.).— Plant 
vigorous,  moderately  productive  ;  fruit  large,  roundish  ; 
pale  red  ;  flesh  light  scarlet,  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  rich, 
aromatic. 

CLASS   III. — ALPINE   VARIETIES. 

Alpine  Wood. — The  wild  strawberry  of  Europe  ;  red 
and  white  in  color.  Plants  very  liardy,  productive, 
ripening  a  long  time  in  succession  ;  fruit  small,  conical, 
with  a  peculiar  musky,  agreeable  flavor  ;  easily  grown 
from  seed. 

Alpine  Bush. — The  busli  Alpines  make  no  runners, 
and  are  highly  valued  on  account  of  their  long-continued, 
regular  bearing  from  June  to  October,  and  for  the  fa- 
cility with  which  they  can  be   used  ae  edging  plants* 


STUAWBERRIES.  431 

both  useful  and  ornamental  ;  the  fruit  is  small,  red  or 
white  in  color,  conical,  pleasant,  musky,  juicy,  sweet; 
propagated  by  division  or  seeds. 

Autumnal  Cialaude. — A  productive  variety,  large, 
conical,  light  red,  excellent. 

Montreuil.— A  large  and  txcellent  variety  of  the  Al- 
pine, much  grown  around  Paris.  Should  be  in  every 
amateur's  collection. 

CLASS   IV. — HAUTBOIS   STRAAVBERRIES. 

Belle  Bordelaise. — A  French  sort,  of  medium  size  ; 
dark  red,  with  a  high,  musky  flavor  ;  jdant  productive 
and  very  ornamental. 

Monstrous  llautbois. — Plant  very  vigorous,  with  broad 
serrated  foliage,  highly  ornamental,  very  productive, 
bearing  its  fruit,  which  is  large,  on  high  footstalks,  dark 
colored,  with  a  rich,  slightly  musky  flavor. 

Royal  llautbois. — Plant  vigorous,  very  prolific  ;  fruit 
medium  to  large,  roundish,  conical,  dark  crimson  ;  flesh 
soft,  sweet,  musky,  rich.  Originated  by  Thomas  Kivers, 
of  England,  fi-om  seed  of  Belle  Bordelaise. 

CLASS   V. 

New  varieties  of  strawl)erries  not  yet  sufficiently 
tested  to  go  in  the  select  list,  and  old  sorts  esteemed 
only  in  particular  localities. 

Black  Defiance. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Plant  vigorous, 
if  grown  in  suitable  soil,  and  moderately  productive  ; 
fruit  large,  obtuse-conical ;  dark  crimson  ;  flesh  firm, 
solid,  juicy,  and  high  flavored ;  requires  high  culture. 
Season  early. 

Captain  Jack. — Origin  Missouri.  Plant  vigorous  and 
very  productive  j  fruit  of  good  size,  round  ;  light  scarle^  . 


433  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

flesh  moderately  firm  ;  flavor  poor.  Season  late.  Es- 
teemed in  some  parts  of  the  West. 

Crystal  City. — Origin  Missouri.  Plant  vigorous,  but 
only  moderately  productive ;  fruit  medium,  conical ; 
light  crimson  ;  flesh  soft,  quality  good  when  very  ripe. 
Valuable  only  to  the  amateur  on  account  of  its  earliness, 
being  the  first  to  ripen. 

Duncan. — Origin  New  York.  Plant  vigorous  and  jiro- 
ductive  ;  fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish-oval ;  bright 
crimson  ;  flesh  moderately  firm  and  high  flavored.  Val- 
uable for  table  use,  as  it  is  one  of  the  best  in  point  of 
flavor.     Season  early. 

Forest  Rose. — Origin  Ohio.  Medium  to  large,  obtuse 
conic,  usually  regular,  sometimes  coxcombed ;  color 
light,  rich  crimson  ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  rich  ;  plant  vigor- 
ous and  productive  ;  requires  high  culture. 

Golden  Defiance  (p). — Origin  Pennsylvania.  Plant 
vigorous  and  very  productive,  often  twelve  to  fifteen  ber- 
ries on  a  truss;  fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish  regular; 
dark  crimson;  flesh  moderately  firm,  and  of  good  qual- 
ity.    One  of  the  best  late  varieties. 

Great  American.— Origin  New  Jersey.  Medium  to 
large,  roundish-conical;  beautiful  deep  crimson  ;  flesh 
firm,  flavor  good;  plant  moderately  vigorous  and  produc- 
tive; under  high  culture  does  well  in  some  localities. 
Season  late. 

Hervey  Davis. — Origin  Massachusetts.  Medium  to 
large;  obtusely  conical;  bright  scarlet;  flesh  firm,  flavor, 
good;  plant  vigorous  and  productive.    Season  medium. 

Jersey  Queen  (p). — Origin  New  Jersey.  A  new  and 
promising  variety;  fruit  large,  handsome,  and  of  fine 
quality.     Season  late. 

Lonj?fellow. — Origin  Kentucky.  A  large,  handsome, 
fine-flavored  berry;  plant  moderately  productive.  Season 
l^te, 


STRAWBERRIES.  433 

Manchester  (p). — Origin  Now  Jersey.  A  very  prom- 
ising, new  viiriety,  described  as  large,  liandsome,  firm, 
and  of  the  best  quality;  plant  vigorous  and  productive. 
Season  medium  to  late. 

Miner's  Great  Prolific. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Plant 
vigorous;  fruit  large,  roundish,  inclining  to  conical, 
somewhat  ribbed;  crimson;  tlesh  moderately  firm;  flavor 
good;  valuable  for  near  market.    Season  medium  to  late. 

Oliver  Goldsmith. — Origin  Ohio.  Described  as  being 
large,  handsome,  and  fine  flavored  ;  plant  vigorous  and 
productive.     Season  medium  to  late. 

Pioneer. — Origin  New  Jersey.  Large,  oval;  light 
scarlet;  flesh  moderately  firm;  flavor  very  good;  plant 
vigorous  and  moderately  productive.      Season  early. 

Pronty's  Seedlinj?, — Large,  conical;  bright  scarlet; 
flesh  moderately  firm  and  of  fair  quality;  plant  vigorous 
and  })roductive. 

Seneca  Queen. — A  variety  said  to  be  very  promising 
f'or  home  use  and  near  market.  Described  as  "large, 
jilmost  round;  dark  crimson;  flavor  good;  plant  vigorous 
and  very  productive."     Season  early  to  late. 

Seth  Boyden  (Boyden's  No.  30).  Plant  vigorous  and 
productive;  large,  roundish,  conical,  regular;  bright 
crimson;  flesh  Juicy,  rich,  sub-acid  of  excellent  quality. 
Season  medium  to  late.  With  good  culture  one  of  the 
best  of  StrawbeiTies. 

Triple  Crown. — Origin  New  York.  Said  to  be  a  val- 
uable variety  for  home  garden  and  market  on  account  of 
its  fine  flavor.     Season  medium. 

Warren. — Origin  Kentucky.  At  the  South-west  highly 
valued.   Only  partially  tested  here.    Season  medium  early. 

Big  Bob  {/)),  Early  Canada,  Finch's  Prolific,  Gypsy 
( p).  Hart's  Minnesota,  James  Vick,  Mount  Vernon  or 
Kirk  wood,  Nigh's  Superb,  Phelp's  Seedling,  Piper's 
19 


434  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

Seedling,  Prinio,  are  new  varieties,  not  yet  generally 
tested,  but  bearing  strong  recommendations  from  the  dis- 
seminators. 

Section  12. — Berberries. 

epine  vinette  of  the  french. 

foninion  Red. — This  is  everywhere  well  known;  growii 
not  only  for  the  fruit,  which  is  used  for  preserves,  jellies, 
and  pickles,  but  for  ornament.  The  bright  scarlet  oval 
fruit  is  borne  in  rich  clusters,  which  hang  on  until  late 
in  the  autumn. 

Sweet-Fruited  (Berberis  dulcis). — The  fruit  of  this 
is  much  less  acid  than  the  common.  The  plant  is  not  so 
vigorous. 

Besides  these,  there  are  several  species  and  varieties 
cultivated  chiefly  for  ornament;  The  WMte-fruited,  The 
Violet- fruited,  and  the  Variegated-leaved,  its  foliage  mark- 
ed with  yellow;  The  Purple-leaved  and  Purple-fruited, 
the  most  unique  and  ornamental  of  all,  the  former  with 
beautiful  violet-purple  foliage.  They  are  all  easily  propa- 
gated by  layers  or  suckers,  and  the  rare  sorts  by  grafting; 
seeds  of  the  purple-leaved  variety  produce  a  large  pro- 
portion true. 

Section  13. — Select  Blackberries. 

CLASS   lo 

A^awam. — Fruit  of  medium  size;  jet  black;  sweet, 
melting  to  the  core;  early;  plant  hardy  and  prolific. 

Ancieit  Briton. — Fruit  medium  size;  melting,  without 
core  and  with  a  pleasant  favor;  a  little  better  in  quality 
than  Agawam  or  Snyder.     Plant  hardy  and  productive. 

Dorcliester  (Improved  High  Bush). — A  moderately 
strong,  upright  grower,  very  hardy,  moderate  bearer  ; 
fruit  medium  to  large,  oblong;  deep,  shining  black;  when 
fully  ripe,  soft,  juicy,  rich. 


BLACKBERRIES.  435 

Kittatiuny. — A  strong  grower,  very  productive,  quite 
liarcly;  fruit  large  to  very  large,  roundish,  conical;  glossy 
black;  rather  firm,  rich,  Juicy,  sweet,  excellent;  profitable 
for  market  or  garden, 

IVew  Rochelle  or  Lawton. — A  very  strong  grower, 
with  strong,  stout  spines,  hardy  in  most  localities,  very 
productive ;  fruit  very  large,  oval,  black,  rather  soft; 
juicy,  tender,  sweet,  excellent ;  requires  to  be  fully  ripe, 
otiierwise  it  is  acid  and  lacking  in  flavor, 

Snyder. — Origin  Indiana,  Fruit  medium  size  and  of 
good  quality  ;  plant  very  hardy  and  remarkably  produc- 
tive ;  requires  good  cultivation  ;  ripens  early. 

Wachusett  Tlioriiless. — Fruit  medium  size,  oblong 
oval,  moderately  firm,  sweet  and  good;  said  to  be  valua- 
ble as  a  market  berry  ;  comparatively  free  from  thorns, 

Wilson's  Early. — A  moderately  strong  grower,  produc- 
tive, and  ripening  early  ;  fruit  large,  oblong,  oval,  black, 
firm.  Juicy,  a  little  hard  at  center,  sweet  and  good ;  a 
profitable,  early  market  sort. 

CLASS   II. 

The  following  are  new  and  promising  varieties  of 
Blackberries  not  sufficiently  tested  to  insert  in  the  select 
list. 

Early  Harvest  and  Stayman's  Early,  of  medium  size, 
are  said  to  be  the  earliest  of  Blackberries, 

Stone's  Hardy,— Origin  Illinois,  Said  to  be  hardier 
than  Snyder,  more  productive,  a  larger  berry  and  of  better 
quality, 

Taylor's  Proliflc. — Origin  Indiana,  A  promising  new 
berry,  said  to  be  larger  than  Snyder,  equally  as  hardy  and 
very  ])roductive  ;  ripens  after  the  Snyder, 

Wallace. — Another  new  variety,  said  to  be  similar  to 
the  Kittatinny  in  many  respects,  but  hardier. 


430  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

Western  Triumph. — Described  as  being  larger  than 
Snyder  and  as  hardy  ;  flavor  fine  ;  commences  to  ripen 
quite  early  and  continues  until  late. 

All  the  Blackberries  ripen  just  after  Kaspberries,  and 
help  to  fill  up  a  vacant  season  just  before  the  early  peach- 
es, pears,  etc. 

The  fruit  is  not  only  agreeable  for  the  dessert,  but 
among  the  best  for  canning,  and  always  healthful. 

Section  14. — Mulberries. 

Black. — A  native  of  Persia.  The  berry  is  an  inch  and 
a-half  long,  and  nearly  an  inch  in  diameter,  black,  suc- 
culent, sugary,  and  rich.  The  tree  is  highly  ornamental, 
very  erect,  with  a  large,  spreading  head.  The  leaves  ap- 
pear late  in  spring,  are  large,  heart-shaped,  sometimes 
lobed,  deep  green,  and  form  a  dense  shade. 

Everbearing.— This  variety  was  grown  from  seed  by 
Chas.  Downing  and  is  regarded  as  a  valuable  fruit ;  the 
fruit  is  large,  one  and  a  quarter  inch  long,  and  nearly 
half  an  inch  in  diameter,  color  from  maroon  to  blue 
black ;  flesh  juicy,  sugary,  sprightly,  and  vinous ;  it 
ripens  gradually,  a  long  time  in  succession. 

Johnson. — This  variety  originated  in  Ohio.  It  is  a 
strong,  vigorous-growing  tree,  with  very  large  leaves,  and 
very  productive  ;  the  fruit  is  large,  blackish,  sub-acid, 
mild,  pleasantly  agreeable. 

Section  15. — Grapes. 

select  hardy  native  grapes. 

class  i. — klack  grapes. 

Barry  (Rogers' No.  43), — Bunch  large  and  hand^me; 
berries  Ijirge,   rqu"t^ish  j    delicate,  swe^^^ii^  ^n^©k 


GRAPES.  437 

Ripens  with  Concord.     Vine  vigorous  and  productive. 
One  of  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  Rogers'  Hybrids. 

I'hampion  (Talman's  Seedling). — Bunc^h  medium  to 
large,  compact,  shouldered;  berry  large,  round;  skin  thick 
and  firm  ;  llesh  somewhat  pulpy,  juicy,  sweet,  with  a 
slight  foxy  flavor.  Ripens  before  Hartford  Prolific. — A 
large,  handsome,  early  grape,  of  poor  quality,  but  profit- 
able on  account  of  its  extreme  earliness. 

('lintOll. — A  well-known  old  sort.  The  bunches  are 
small  to  medium,  compact,  berries  small ;  colors  early, 
but  requires  a  considerable  time  after  that  to  attain  full 
maturity,  and  will  lumg  until  early  winter.  Successful 
both  North  and  South.  A  hardy,  productive,  valuable 
sort. 

Concord, — Almost  too  well  known  to  need  a  word. 
It  is  a  very  strong,  vigorous,  and  productive  variety ; 
succeeding  in  almost  every  soil  and  locality.  One  of  the 
earliest  and  most  profitable;  valuable  for  garden  or  vine- 
yard. The  bunch  is  large,  shouldered;  berry  large,  round; 
flesh  juicy,  pleasantly  sweet,  agreeable  ;  skin  too  thin  to 
carry  well,  and  therefore  not  good  for  distant  markets. 

Crevelin^. — An  old  variety.  Supposed  origin  Penn- 
sylvania. Bunch  medium,  often  very  loose,  shouldered; 
berry  medium,  round,  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy, 
sweet,  very  little  pulp;  richer  than  Concord,  and  ripens 
a  little  before  that  variety.  A  fine  grape,  but  does  not 
always  set  well. 

fynthiana, — A  variety  much  like  Norton's  Virginia. 
Higbly  prized  for  Avine  purposes  in  the  West;  vine  vigor' 
ous,  hardy,  and  productive,  and  by  some  deemed  supei'ior 
to  Norton. 

Elsinbiir&^h. — An  old  variety  ;  a  moderate,  regular 
bearer;  much  esteemed  in  Missouri  for  wine,  also  for  the 
table.      The   bunch    is    pretty  large,    long,    and  loose. 


438  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

shouldered  ;  berries  small,  round  ;  flesh  free  from  pulp, 
juicy,  sweet,  excellent. 

Essex  (Rogers'  No.  41). — Vine  a  vigorous  and  strong 
grower,  productive  ;  bunch  medium  size,  short,  shoul- 
dered; berry  large,  tender,  and  sweet.  Ripens  with  Con- 
cord. 

Eumelan. — Origin  New  York.  A  supposed  seedling 
of  the  Isabella.  Bunch  and  berry  medium;  flesh  tender, 
sweet,  juicy,  rich,  excellent ;  vine  moderately  vigorous 
and  a  good  bearer.     One  of  the  best  for  the  table. 

Hartford  Proliflc, — A  very  popular  variety  because  of 
its  early  maturity.  Tlie  vine  is  vigorous,  hardy,  and  a 
good  bearer;  bunch  large,  shouldered;  berry  large,  round, 
musky;  thick  skin,  black,  with  a  bloom;  flesh  sweet,  with 
a  tough  acid  pulp;  rich  and  good  when  fully  ripe.  Liable 
to  drop  its  berries  from  the  bunch  when  fully  ripe,  and 
more  so  on  sand  than  clay  soils.  A  week  earlier  than 
Concord. 

Herbemont. — A  Southern  variety,  highly  esteemed  in 
Missouri  and  many  Southern  localities,  as  profitable  and 
desirable  for  wine  or  table.  North  it  does  not  ripen  its 
fruit  generally.  The  bunch  is  large,  compact;  berries  be- 
low medium,  almost  black  ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  aro- 
matic. 

Herbert  (Rogers'  No.  44). — Bunch  rather  loose;  berry 
medium  ;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  a  little  pulpy,  very  good; 
vine  vigorous,  a  strong  grower,  and  moderately  produc- 
tive.   Ripens  with  Concord.    A  large,  handsome  variety. 

Isabella. — This  old,  well-known  sort  continues  popular 
and  profitable  in  many  localities,  but  is  rapidly  being  su- 
perseded. It  is  a  vigorous  grower,  an  immense  bearer, 
and  hardy,  but  in  some  localities  it  is  liable  to  mildew. 
In  quality,  it  is  the  best  of  any  of  the  black  grapes  of  its 
season.  Bunches  large,  rather  loose;  berries  oval,  pretty 
largo ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  slightly  musky.     Still 


GRAPES.  439 

one  of  tlie  best  for  niiirket,  Avliere  it  ripens,  as  it  carries 
and  keeps  well. 

Ives  (Ives'  Seedling). — Originated  with  Ilenry  Ives, 
Cincinnati,  Ohio.  Vine  very  vigorous,  hardy,  and  very 
l^roductive.  It  is  esteemed  at  the  West  as  a  profitable 
wine  grape,  and  also  as  a  tolerable  table  grape  when  fully 
ripe. 

Merrimack  (Rogers' No.  19). — Bunch  medium,  rather 
short;  berry  large,  round,  slight  bloom;  flesh  tender, 
juicy,  sweet;  vine  vigorous  and  productive.  One  of  the 
earliest  and  best  of  the  liogers'  Varieties. 

Monroe. — Raised  from  seed  by  Ellwanger  &  Barry, 
Rochester,  N.  Y.  Bunch  medium  to  large,  shouldered; 
berries  medium  to  large,  round;  skin  rather  thick,  black, 
covered  with  a  coating  of  white  bloom,  handsome;  flesh 
juicy,  vinous,  and  sprightly;  vine  vigorous,  with  firm, 
short-jointed  wood,  which  always  ripens  well,  and  fine, 
healthy  foliage,  which  has  never  shown  a  trace  of  mildew. 
Ripens  with  Hartford  Prolific. 

Moore's  Early.— Raised  by  J.  B.  Moore,  Concord, 
Mass.  Bunch  large,  berry  large,  round;  black  with  a 
blue  bloom;  quality  medium;  ripens  about  ten  days  be- 
fore Concord;  vine  vigorous  and  productive;  useful  as  an 
early  variety. 

Norton's  Virginia. — Introduced  to  cultivation  by  Dr. 
D.  N.  Norton,  of  Richmond,  Va.  It  is  a  strong,  vigor- 
ous, long  grower,  producing  very  abundantly,  and  highly 
esteemed  for  wine.  Bunch  medium,  shouldered;  berries 
small,  purplish  black;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  brisk, 
rough,  sweet  flavor.  Although  most  largely  grown  in 
Missouri,  it  is  equally  adapted  to  the  North,  as  it  ripens 
with  Isabella. 

Telegraph  (Christine).— Originated  in  Philadelphia. 
Vine  vigorous,  hardy,  very  productive.  Bunch  above 
medium  to  large,  compact;    berry  large,   round;  black; 


440  SELECT  TAMETIES   OF  FRUITS. 

flesh  juicy,  tender,  very  little  pulp,  not  as  sweet  as  Hart- 
ford Prolific,  but  free  of  all  the  musky  flavor,  and  ripen- 
ing at  same  time. 

Wilder  (Rogers'  No.  4). — This  is  believed  to  be  the 
best  of  the  black  varieties  grown  by  E.  S,  Eogers,  of 
Salem,  Mass.  The  vine  is  vigorous,  hardy,  a  good  bearer, 
and  the  fruit  hangs  well  to  the  vine,  and  is  a  good  keeper. 
Bunch  large,  compact,  shouldered;  berry  large,  round, 
black;  flesh  tender,  slight  pulp  at  center,  juicy,  sweet, 
rather  rich  and  aromatic.  Eipens  about  with  Concord. 
Valuable  for  market  on  account  of  its  size  and  beauty. 

Worden. — Origin  New  York.  Said  to  be  a  seedling  of 
the  Concord.  Bunch  large,  compact,  handsome;  berries 
large,  larger  than  those  of  the  Concord.  It  ripens  a  few 
days  earlier,  and  is  superior  to  it  in  flavor, 

CLASS  II. — RED    GRAPES. 

Agawam  (Rogers'  No.  15), — Vine  very  vigorous,  hardy, 
productive,  a  little  liable  to  mildew;  bunch  variable, 
sometimes  large  and  fine,  often  small  and  imperfect;  ber- 
ries large,  roundish,  thick  skin;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet, 
aromatic,  hard  center  pulp  with  a  native  musky  aroma. 
Generally  regarded  as  one  of  the  best  of  Rogers'  red  varie- 
ties. 

Brighton. — Raised  by  Jacob  Moore,  Rochester,  N.  Y., 
by  crossing  the  Concord  and  Diana  Hamburgh.  Bunch 
large;  berry  medium  to  large,  round;  color  red  at  first, 
1  turning  to  purple  when  fully  ripe,  and  covered  with  a 
bloom;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  and  vinous;  vine  a  luxuriant 
grower,  making  long,  strong  canes,  with  large  foliage; 
ripens  a  little  earlier  than  Concord.  A  fine  grape,  and 
worthy  of  careful  culture. 

Catawba. — A  native  of  Maryland.  The  Catawl)a  does 
not  always  ripen  at  the  Nortn,  except  in  certain  localities; 
but  where  it  does  ripen  perfectly,  no  grape  of  its  season 


GRAPES.  iiX 

it  in  quality  or  value.  It  has  been  subject  to 
rot,  etc.,  ill  some  localities,  but  it  is  again  renewing 
itself;  and  in  sections  where,  a  few  years  since,  it  was 
unprofitable,  it  is  now  one  of  the  best.  It  has  been  more 
generally  grown  as  a  wine  and  table  grape  than  any  other, 
except,  perhai)s,  the  Isabella,  and  to-day  holds  supremacy 
in  many  localities.  Except  in  sheltered  or  favored  locali- 
ties, and  in  good  seasons,  it  does  not  ripen  well  in  Western 
New  York.  Bunch  medium  to  large,  loose;  berries  large, 
coppery  red,  with  light  bloom,  round;  flesh  slightly 
pulpy  at  center,  Juicy,  very  sweet,  musky,  aromatic,  rich. 
Ripens  early  in  October,  but  will  hang,  and  is  im- 
proved, until  weather  becomes  too  cold.  Keeps  well 
during  winter. 

Delaware. — This  in  quality  is  one  of  our  most  delicate 
and  best  of  native  varieties.  The  vine  is  perfectly  hardy, 
a  healthy  grower,  requiring  rich  soil,  has  short-jointed 
wood,  and  bears  abundantly,  so  much  so,  that,  if  long 
pruned,  which  is  best,  it  should  have  more  or  less  of  its 
fruit  thinned  out.  As  a  table-dessert  grape,  or  for  wine, 
it  is  one  of  the  best.  The  bunch  is  small,  compact, 
shouldered;  berries  small,  round,  clear,  light  red, 
almost  translucent;  free  from  pulp,  sweet,  vinous, 
aromatic. 

Diana. — Originated  in  Boston,  Mass.  Supposed  to  be 
a  seedling  from  the  Catawba.  Vine  vigorous,  healthy, 
hardy,  and  productive,  requires  age  to  develop  its  true 
qualities.  A  thin,  light,  or  poor  soil  is  better  suited  to 
it  than  one  over-rich.  It  hangs  well  after  ripening,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  winter  keepers  among  grapes.  The 
bunches  are  large,  compact;  berry  medium,  reddish-lilac; 
flesh  juicy,  nearly  free  from  pulp,  sweet,  aromatic;  colors 
early,  but  does  not  attain  perfect  maturity  earlier  than 
Catawba.  A  valuable  table  and  wine  grape  where  it 
ripens  well. 


442  SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

Gaertncr  (Rogers'  No.  U). — Bunch  largo;  berry 
large,  round,  red,  skin  thin,  almost  translucent;  flesh 
somewhat  pulpy,  but  so.'t  and  pleasant  flavored;  vine 
healthy  and  productive.  One  of  the  handsomest  of 
grapes;  but  little  known. 

Goethe  (Rogers'  No.  1} — Vine  very  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive. Ripens  with  Ci^tawba.  Succeeds  well  South 
and  South-west,  or  wherever  the  Catawba  ripens  per- 
fectly. At  the  North  aiii  East,  it  does  not  ripen  per- 
fectly, except  in  sheltered  warm  locations.  Bunch  large, 
moderately  compact;  ami^Qr,  flushed  with  red;  flesh  ten- 
der, melting,  sweet,  juicy 

loaa. — Originated  by  Dr.  Grant.  Vine  moderately 
vigorous,  hardy,  produc'ive.  The  fruit  colors  early,  but 
does  not  real'y  lipen  much,  if  any,  earlier  than  Catawba. 
It  has  been  widely  d^'^seminated,  but  is  not  found  suc- 
cessful as  a  vineyard  port,  except  in  certain  localities. 
Bunch  medium  toiarr^e,  shouldered;  berries  medium  size, 
roundish-ovd;  light^  clear  red,  thin  bloom;  flesh  soft, 
tender,  vinous,  juicy,  sweet,  delicious^  A  grape  of  supe- 
rior quality,  and  should  be  in  ovcry  garden  where  tlie 
climate  is  suitable.     Needs  high  culture. 

Lindiey  (Rogers'  No.  9). — Vine  healthy  an(?  vigorous; 
foliage  rather  sparse;  a  good  bearer;  bunch  medium, 
compact;  berry  medium,  roundish,  pale  reddish;  flesh 
sweet,  tender,  juicy,  slightly  aromatic.  One  of  the  best 
and  earliest  of  the  Rogers'  list. 

Massasoit  (Rogers'  No.  3). — Vine  moderately  vigor^ 
ous,  productive;  bunch  medium,  rather  loose;  berry 
large,  roundish,  light  claret-red;  flesh  tender,  juicy, 
sweet;  ripens  just  before  Concord;  is  a  desirable  variety 
for  the  garden. 

Rochester.— Raised  byEllwanger  &  Barry,  Rochester, 
N.  Y.  Bunch  large  to  very  large,  shouldered,  frequently 
double-shouldered,  very  comjiact ;    berries  medium   to 


GRAPES.  443 

large,  round;  dark  purple  or  purplish  lilac,  with  thin, 
white  bloom;  flesh  very  sweet,  vinous,  rich  and  aromatic; 
vine  a  remarkably  vigorous  grower;  wood  short- jointed 
and  hardy;  foliago  large,  thick,  healthy,  has  never  been 
known  to  mildew.  Its  habits  are  similar  to  the  Diana, 
and  it  requires  ample  room  and  rather  long  pruning. 
Ripens  usually  the  first  week  in  September.  The  fruit 
sets  well,  and  it  has  never  failed  to  ripen  in  the  worst  of 
seasons  since  it  first  bore.  It  should  be  used  when  ripe, 
as  after  that  the  berries  begin  to  fall  from  the  bunch. 

Salem  (Rogers'  No.  53). — Vine  healthy,  vigorous,  and 
productive;  bunch  large,  compact;  berry  large,  round; 
dark,  coppery  red;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  slight  pulp,  sweet, 
a  little  foxy,  aromatic.  Ripens  about  same  season  as 
Concord. 

CLASS  III. — WHITE  GRAPES. 

Duchess. — Raised  by  A.  J,  Caywood,  Marlboro,  N. 
Y.,  and  said  to  be  a  cross  of  a  Avhite  Concord  seedling 
and  Delaware.  Bunch  medium  to  large,  shouldered, 
compact;  berries  medium,  roundish,  light  green  at  first, 
changing  to  greenish-yellow  when  mature;  flesh  tender, 
free  from  pulp,  juicy,  sweet,  rich,  and  of  fine  quality; 
vine  vigorous,  productive.     Ripens  with  Concord. 

Lady. — Originated  by  Mr.  Imlay,  of  Muskingum  Co., 
Ohio.  Said  to  be  a  seedling  of  the  Concord.  Bunch 
medium;  berry  about  the  size  of  Concord;  skin  light 
greenish-yellow,  covered  with  white  bloom;  flesh  tender 
and  sweet;  ripens  early;  vine  hardy  and  vigorous.  A 
valuable  early  grape. 

Lady  Washington. — A  cross  of  Concord  and  Allen's 
Hybrid,  raised  by  J.  H.  Ricketts,  Newburg,  N".  Y.  Bunch 
large,  shouldered;  berry  medium  to  large;  skin  green  at 
first,  changing  to  a  pale  yellow  when   matured;    flesh 


444  SELECT  VARIETIES   OV  FRUITS. 

pulpy  but  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  not  rich;  ripens  after  the 
Concord.  A  remarkably  vigorous  growing  vine,  and  » 
beautiful  fruit  when  in  perfection, 

Martha.— liaised  by  Samuel  Miller,  of  Bluffton,  Mo, 
Vine  a  vigorous  grower  and  a  good  bearer,  hardy  and 
healthy;  bunch  medium;  berry  large,  roundish;  greenish- 
yellow;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  a  little  pulp  at  centre.  Ripens 
with  Concord, 

Maxatavviiey. — Originated  in  Pennsylvania.  Vine  vig- 
orous, hardy,  healthy,  and  productive.  Ripens  with 
Isabella;  bunch  medium,  rather  loose,  berries  medium, 
roundish-oval;  greenish  or  yellowish-white,  tinted  with 
amber;  flesh  free  from  pulp,  tender,  sweet,  juicy, 
sprightly,  delicious. 

IVias^ara. — Originated  with  Hoag  and  Clark,  Lockport, 
N.  Y.  Said  to  be  a  cross  of  Concord  and  Cassady. 
Bunch  large,  compact;  berry  large,  roundish ;  skin  green, 
covered  with  a  whitish  bloom;  of  about  same  quality  as 
Concord  and  ripens  at  the  same  time.  Vine  vigorous, 
hardy,  and  productive.  A  large,  handsome,  white  grape, 
not  of  the  highest  quality,  but  promising  to  be  valuable 
for  market. 

Pockliugton. — Raised  from  seed  of  Concord  by  Johti 
Pocklington,  Sandy  Hill,  N.  Y.  Bunch  large,  shoul- 
dered, compact  ;  berry  large,  roundish  ;  skin  pale  amber, 
when  ripe  ;  fair,  quality  ;  vine  hardy,  healthy,  vigorous, 
and  productive.  Ripens  about  the  same  time  as  Concord. 
A  handsome  grape,  promising  to  be  valuable  for  market. 

Prentiss. — A  seedling  of  Isabella,  raised  by  J.  W. 
Prentiss,  Pultncy,  N.  Y.  Bunch  medium,  compact ; 
berry  medium,  round  ;  skin  thick,  firm,  pale  yellow  when 
ripe  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  pleasant.  Ripens 
with  Concord.  Vine  moderately  vigorous  and  produc- 
tive. 

Rebecca. — Origin  Hudson,  N.  Y.     Vine  a  free  but 


GRAPES.  445 

not  strong  groAver,  an  abundant  bearer,  hardy  in  most 
localities  ;  rijiens  soon  after  Concord,  and  deserves  a 
place  in  every  garden  ;  bnnch  medium,  compact ;  berries 
medium,  greenish-yellow,  almost  golden  amber  at  full 
ripeness  ;  flesh  rather  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  delicious.  AVhen 
well  ripened  it  is  not  surpassed  by  any  of  the  native 
grapes. 


The  following  list  embraces  mauyof  the  promising  new 
varieties,  as  well  as  some  old  ones,  either  not  sufficiently 
tested  to  go  on  the  select  list,  or  esteemed  only  in  partic- 
ular localities. 

Adirondack. — Origin  Port  Henry,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y. 
Bunch  large  ;  berries  medium  ;  skin  black  ;  flesh  tender 
and  sweet.  Ripens  among  the  earliest.  Vine  moder- 
ately vigorous.  A  grape  of  excellent  quality,  well  suited 
to  warm  localities. 

Allen's  Hybrid. — Bunch  medium  or  above  ;  berry  me- 
dium, roundish  ;  skin  pale,  whitish-yellow  ;  a  delicious 
grape,  very  much  subject  to  mildew.  In  some  locations 
it  ripens  its  fruit  perfectly  every  year. 

Amber  Queen. — A  new  variety,  which  originated  with 
N.  B.  AVhite,  Xorwood,  Mass.,  from  seed  of  the  Marion 
hybridized  with  pollen  of  Black  Hamburgh  ;  bunch  and 
berry  of  medium  size  ;  amber  color  at  first,  changing  to 
purple  overspread  with  bloom,  when  perfectly  ripe  ;  flesh 
tender,  free  from  pulp,  sprightly,  vinous,  rich.  Ripens 
with  Concord.  Vine  vigorous  and  healthy.  It  has  the 
serious  defect  of  setting  its  fruit  imperfectly. 

Auf^USt  Giant.— Raised  by  N.  B.  White,  Norwood, 
IVIass.  Descriljed  as  follows  :  "  A  cross  between  Black 
Hamburgh  and  Marion.  Bunch  very  large  ;  berries  very 
large,  somewhat  oblong ;  color  bjack  j  fruit,  wbea  well 


446         SELECT  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

grown,  has  a  decided  Hamburgh  flavor,  tender,  rich, 
fine.  Kipens  in  August.  Vine  vigorous  and  produc- 
tive." 

Bacchus.  —A  seedling  of  tlie  Clinton  raised  by  James 
II.  Kicketts.  Described  as  follows:  "  Bunch  compact ; 
berry  medium,  round  ;  black  with  blue  bloom  ;  pulp  half 
tender,  juicy  ;  vine  vigorous,  hardy,  and  in'oductive.  A 
Aviue  grape." 

Black  Ea^le  and  Black  Defiance  are  hybrids  raised  by 
Stephen  Underbill,  Croton  Point,  N.  Y.  Both  are  black. 
The  first  ripens  early,  the  latter  later,  and  are  represented 
to  be  very  promising  table  grapes. 

Burnet.— A  new  grape  raised  by  Mr.  P.  C.  Dempsey, 
Prince  Edwards  Co.,  Ont,,  by  hybridizing  the  Hartford 
Prolific  with  pollen  of  the  Black  Hamburgh.  Bunch 
medium  ;  berry  medium,  oval,  purplish  black  ;  flavor 
sprightly,  vinous,  rich,  agreeable.  Eipens  with  Concord. 
Foliage  tender,  and  fruit  does  not  always  set  well.  This 
variety  merits  trial  by  the  amateur,  on  account  of  the 
fine  quality  of  the  fruit. 

Canada. — Raised  by  Charles  Arnold,  of  Ontario,  and 
said  to  be  a  cross  between  Clinton  and  Black  St.  Peters. 
Vine  moderately  vigorous  ;  foliage  tender  ;  bunch  and 
berry  large ;  flesh  nearly  free  from  pulp,  and  fine. 
Eipens  with  Concord. 

Centennial. — Eaised  by  D,  S.  Marvin,  Watertown,  N. 
Y.  Described  as  "Bunch  medium  to  large,  compact, 
sometimes  shouldered ;  berries  medium,  round  ;  skin 
thick,  tough,  light  red,  with  thin  white  bloom  ;  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  sweet,  vinous.  Eipens  with  Concord. 
Vine  vigorous." 

Croton. — Originated  by  S.  Underbill,  Croton  Point, 
N.  Y.  Said  to  be  a  cross  between  Delaware  and  Golden 
Chasselas.  Bunch  large,  shouldered  ;  berry  medium  or 
above,  greenish-yellow  ;  flesh  juicy,  sprightly,  sweet,  rich. 


GRAPES.  447 

delicious  fliivor.  Ripens  l)ct\vcoii  Hartford  Prolilic  and 
Concord.  In  some  places  a  valuable  garden  variety, 
but  variable. 

Early  Dawu.— Originated  with  Dr.  Wm.  A.  M.  Cutli- 
bert,  of  Newburg,  N.  Y.  Buncii  medium;  berry  medium, 
round,  black  with  bloom  ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  rich, 
vinous,  and  of  excellent  quality.  Ripens  early.  Vine 
vigorous  and  jiroductive.     A  tine  grape  for  the  anuiteur. 

Early  Victor. — A  new  variety  raised  by  John  Burr, 
Leavenworth,  Kansas.  Described  as  follows:  "  Buncli 
medium,  compact ;  berry  medium,  round,  black,  covered 
with  a  flue  blue  bloom;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  rich;  ripens 
very  early,  two  weeks  before  the  Concord  and  one  before 
Moore's  Early,  the  quality  far  superior  to  either.  It 
makes  a  high  flavored  wine ;  vine  hardy,  vigorous,  and 
productive." 

El  Uoriido. — One  of  Mr.  Ricketts'  hybrids,  of  the 
same  parentage  as  Lady  Washington,  and  described  as  a 
large,  handsome,  and  i)romising  white  grape,  ripening 
about  with  Hartford. 

Elvira.  —  A  seedling  from  Taylor  raised  by  Jacob 
Rommel,  of  Morrison,  Mo.  Bunch  medium,  very  com- 
pact ;  berry  medium,  round  ;  pale  green,  with  white 
bloom;  skin  thin,  transparent;  pulp  tender,  juicy,  sweet. 
Ripens  a  few  days  after  the  Concord.  Vine  vigorous, 
hardy,  and  productive.  This  variety  is,  we  believe, 
esteemed  at  the  ^Yest  for  wine.  It  is  useless  here,  the 
berries  cracking  badly,  and  the  flavor  being  indifferent. 
Our  experience  with  Uhland  has  been  similar. 

Golden  Drop. — Raised  by  C.  G.  Pringle,  of  Vermont, 
from  seed  of  the  Adirondack,  fertilized  by  the  Delaware. 
A  small  yellowish-white  grape  of  fine  quality,  but  both 
vine  and  fruit  mildew. 

Highland, — A  hybrid  between  Concord  and  Jura  Mus- 
cat,  raised   by  James   11.    Ricketts,  Newburgh,  N.  Y. 


4-48         SELECT  VAIUETIES  OF  FRUITS.  ) 

Bunch  large,  shouldered;  berry  large,  round,  witli  bloom; 
flesh  Juicy,  sweet,  and  vinous.  Kii^eus  late,  probably  too 
late  for  this  locality. 

Empire  State  (Ricketts). — A  seedling  of  the  .  Hart- 
ford Prolific,  fertilized  with  the  Clinton.  Described  as 
follows:  "  Bunch  large,  shouldered  ;  berry  medium  to 
large,  roundish-oval,  white,  with  a  slight  tinge  of  yellow; 
llesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  sweet,  and  si^rightly.  Ripens  Avith 
Hartford  Prolific.     Vine  a  good  grower. 

Janesville. — An  early  black  grape,  originated  with  F. 
\V.  Loudon,  Janesville,  Wis.  Useless  here,  but  said  to 
be  valuable  in  cold  sections  on  account  of  its  earliness, 
hardiness,  and  habit  of  maturing  its  short-jointed  wood. 
Ripens  with  the  Hartford. 

Jefferson. — A  cross  of  the  Concord  and  lona,  raised 
by  James  H.  Ricketts,  Newburgh.  N.  Y.,  described 
as  follows:  "  Bunch  large,  shouldered,  compact;  berry 
medium  to  large;  skin  firm,  light  red,  resembling  lona; 
flesh  meaty,  tender,  juicy,  sprightly,  and  rich.  Ripens 
about  with  Concord;  vine  vigorous  and  hardy." 

Jessica. — A  promising,  new,  early  white  grape,  now 
being  disseminated  by  D.  AV.  Beadle,  St.  Catharines, 
Out. 

IVaomi. — A  hybrid  of  Clinton  and  one  of  the  Muscats, 
raised  by  Mr.  Ricketts.  Described  as  follows:  "Bunch 
large,  shouldered;  berry  medium,  roundish-oval,  pale 
green,  tinged  with  red  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy, 
melting,  crisp.  Ripens  with  Concord."  Said  to  be  desirable 
for  the  amateur. 

IVoali. — Originated  by  Edward  Wasserzieher,  Nauvoo, 
111.,  from  seed  of  the  Taylor.  Described  as  follows: 
"  Bunch  medium,  shouldered,  compact;  berry  medium, 
round,  pale  yellow,  with  white  bloom;  pulpy,  but  sweet." 
Said  to  be  a  valuable  grape  at  the  West  for  wine,  but  not 
suitable  for  the  table. 


GRAPES.  449 

Oneida.  —Eaised  by  II.  Tluicker,  Community,  N.  Y., 
and  s;iid  to  be  a  soedljr.g  of  Merrimack  (Rogers'  No.  19). 
Bunch  medium  to  large,  I)erries  large,  red,  becoming 
purple  when  fully  ripe;  skin  thick;  flesh  somewhat  pulpy, 
but  rich  and  sweet.  Kipens  rather  late;  vine  said  to  be 
strong  and  healthy.     A  promising  variety. 

Oriental  and  IMorwood, — Seedlings  raised  by  N.  B. 
White,  Norwood,  Mass.,  and  said  to  be  hybrids.  Tlie 
former  is  described  as  resembling  Catawba  in  color  and 
flavor,  but  twice  its  si/e  in  bunch  and  berry,  more  sweet 
and  tender,  and  much  earlier.  The  latter  is  black,  color 
of  Black  Hamburg,  and  is  said  to  resemble  that  variety, 
and  to  be  a  superior  market  grape. 

Othello  (Arnold's  No.  1). — Originated  with  Charles 
Arnold,  P.-iris,  Ontario.  Bunch  large,  shouldered,  com- 
pact; berry  large;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  a  little  pulp;  sprightly, 
very  good;  vihe  a  moderate  grower,  and  very  productive. 
Ripens  with  Concord. 

Senasqua. — Raised  by  S.  Underbill,  Croton  Point,  N. 
Y.  Bunch  medium,  compact  ;  berry  medium,  tender, 
Juicy,  breaking,  sweet,  and  rich;  vine  vigorous  and  hardy. 
Ripens  with  Isabella.  Fruit  cracks  sometimes,  owing  ito 
its  thin  skin.     A  desirable  garden  variety. 

To  Kalon. — An  old  variety,  originated  at  Lansing- 
burgh,  N.  Y.  Bunches  large,  shouldered;  berries  almost 
purplish-black,  covered  with  bloom;  flesh  very  sweet, 
buttery,  very  little  pulp;  vine  vigorous,  hardy,  but  ir- 
regularly productive;  does  not  ripen  evenly.  A  large, 
handsome  grape,  but  variable  in  quality. 

Triumph. — A  hybrid  between  Chasselas  Musque  and 
Concord.  Orown  by  George  W.  Campbell,  Delaware, 
Ohio.  A  large  and  handsome  white  grape,  ripening  late 
and  suited  specially  to  Southern  latitudes.  The  season 
is  too  short  here  to  permit  of  its  maturing. 

Union  Village  (Ontario). — Origin  Ohio.     A  very  vig- 


450  SELECT   VARIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

oroiis  grower,  with  immense  foliage,  productive.  Buncli 
and  berry  very  large;  flesh  free  from  hard  pulp,  tender, 
juicy,  vinous,  pleasant.  Vine  rather  tender  at  the  North; 
needs  protection. 

Veri^ennes. — A  chance  seedling  found  in  the  garden  of 
Mr.  William  E.  Greene,  Vergennes,  Vt.  Described  as 
follows:  ''Clusters  large;  berries  large,  holding  firmly  to 
the  stems;  color  light  amber  with  purple  bloom;  flavor 
rich.  Ripens  with  Hartford,  and  a  very  late  keeper.  Vine 
vigorous  and  healthy." 

Walter. — Origin  Poughkeepsie,  N".  Y.  Bunch  me- 
dium, compact;  berry  medium,  round,  light  red;  flesh 
sweet,  juicy,  rich,  vinous.     Eipens  shortly  after  Concord. 

Waverly. — One  of  Mr.  Ricketts'  hybrids,  a  seedling  of 
the  Clinton  and  one  of  the  Muscats,  and  recommended 
by  him  as  one  of  the  best  black  grapes  for  amateur  and 
family  use. 

Wyomin!?  Red  (Wilmington  Red). — Raised  by  S.  J. 
Parker,  M.  D.,  Ithaca,  N.  Y.  An  early  red  grape;  flesh 
sweet,  pulpy,  and  foxy.  Vine  healthy  and  hardy.  May 
have  value  as  a  hardy,  early  grape. 

Miner's  seedlings,  as  follows,  have  all  proved  worthless 
here:  Antoinette;  Augusta,  Belinda,  Carlotta,  Eugenia, 
Harrison,  Ida,  Lexington,  Linden,  Rockingham,  Vic- 
toria.    The  fruit  drops  badly  and  is  of  inferior  quality. 

Select  Foreign  Grapes. 
class  i. — black  or  purple  grapes. 

Alicante  (Black  Palestine,  etc.). — Bunch  large, 
shouldered,  compact;  berries  nearly  round,  black,  with  a 
little  bloom;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  fine.  An  excellent  late 
var/'ety;  hangs  well. 

Black  Frontignan  (Muscat  Noir,  etc.). — Bunches 


GRA.PES.  451 

long;  berries  medium,  round;  flesh  musky,  rich;  a  good 
bearer. 

Black  llamburji^h. — One  of  the  most  popuhir,  because 
well  known  and  tested.  It  is  an  admirable  grape,  and  a 
general  favorite;  bunch  large,  often  double  shouldered; 
berries  large,  roundish,  slightly  oval;  juicy,  very  sugary, 
ricb. 

fhanipion  Hamburgh. — An  excellent  variety.  Much 
like  Black  llaniburgli. 

Gros  Colmau. — Bunch  large;  berries  very  large  and 
round;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  but  coarse,  with  a  peculiar 
flavor;  good  when  fully  ripe;  habit  vigorous;  hangs  very 
late. 

Gros  Itia roc. — Bunch  large,  compact,  shouldered;  ber- 
ries large,  round,  black;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  vinous.  A 
fine  grower,  and  ripens  well. 

Jura  Muscat. — Bunch  large,  shouldered;  berries  above 
medium,  oval;  flesh  rich,  flavored  with  a  fine  Muscat 
aroma. 

Lady  Downe's. — Bundles  large,  rather  loose,  shoul- 
dered; berries  above  medium,  roundish-oval;  black,  with 
a  thin  bloom;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  and  rich.  One  of  the 
most  valuable  late  varieties.  Hangs  a  long  time  after 
ripening. 

Muscat  llanibur^li. — Bunches  large  and  long;  berries 
large,  roundisb-oval;  flesh  juicy,  rich,  excellent;  flavor 
of  Muscat  of  Alexandria.  Requires  good  culture,  but  is 
of  tlic  liigliost  quality. 

Muscat  Lierval. — Bunch  medium;  berries  round,  me- 
dium size,  deep  purplish-black;  flesh  ricb,  sugary,  with 
a  sHgbt  Muscat  flavor.     Very  early. 

Muscat  d'Aout. — Bunch  and  berries  medium;  round, 
inclining  to  oval;  flesh  very  rich  and  juicy.  A  good 
early  grape. 


452  SELECT   VARIETIES    OF   FRUITS. 

Mrs.  Pince's  Black  Muscat.— Bunches  large,  shoul- 
dered; berries  medium  size,  oval,  puri^lish-black,  thin 
bloom;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  vinous,  with  a  Muscat  flavor. 

Purple  C'onstantia. — Bunches  long  and  tapering,  with 
small  shoulders;  berries  large  and  round.  A  delicious 
grape;  one  of  the  best.     Very  early. 

Trciltham  Black. — Bunclies  large,  tapering,  and  shoul- 
dered; berries  oval;  skin  tough,  jet  black;  flesh  juicy, 
rich,  sugary,  and  vinous.  Valued  highly  for  the  cold 
yinery. 

CLASS   II. — RED   GRAPES. 

Grizzly  Frontlj^nan.— Bunches  large;  berries  large, 
round;  skin  thick,  pale  brown,  blended  with  pink  and 
yellow;  flesh  very  juicy,  rich,  musky,  high-flavored. 

Rose  Chasselas  (Chasselas  de  Falloux). — Bunch 
long  and  compact;  berries  large,  round;  skin  pale  red 
when  fully  ripe;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  refreshing; 
vine  a  great  bearer,  well  suited  for  pot  culture. 

class  III. — WHITE    grapes. 

Bowood  Muscat. — Bunch  large;  berries  very  large, 
bright  amber  color;  flesh  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  fine  Muscat 
flavor.  A  superb  grape;  sets  and  ripens  tolerably  well 
in  cold  vineries.  Supersedes  to  some  extent  the  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  and  Canon  Hall  Muscat. 

Buckland's  Sweetwater.— Bunch  large,  shouldered  ; 
berries  large,  round,  slightly  oval;  skin  thin,  amber  color, 
with  a  thin  white  bloom;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  delicious. 

Chasselas  Musqu^. — Bunches  medium  size,  long,  loose; 
berries  medium  size,  round;  skin  thin,  yellowish  white; 
flesh  tender,  very  juicy,  rich  musky  flavor.  A  delicious 
giape,  highest  flavored  of  the  Chasselas.  Sometimes 
cracks.     Kequires  severe  thinning. 


QRArES.  453 

Early  Smyrna  Frontignan. — Bunches  medinm,  well 
formed,  not  shouldered;  berries  medium,  round,  bright 
amber;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  rich,  and  delicious.  One  of 
the  earliest  to  ripen.     Well  suited  to  a  cold  vinery. 

Early  Silver  Frontignan. — Bunch  medium  to  large, 
shouldered;  berries  large,  roundisli-oval,  whitish  silvery 
yellow;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  agreeable.  An  early 
and  productive  sort.     Very  desirable. 

Foster's  White  Seedling. — Bunch  large;  berries  above 
medium,  roundish-oval,  yello.wish-amber;  flesh  tender, 
melting,  sweet,  and  rich  flavored.  Superior  to  Koyal 
Muscadine;  ripening  at  the  same  time. 

General  Delia  Marmora. — A  very  fine  grape,  with  a 
distinct  Hamburgh  flavor;  one  of  the  best. 

Golden  Champion.— Bunches  large,  heavily  shouldered; 
berries  very  lars^,  obovate  or  ovate,  to  almost  round; 
flesh  firm,  very  juicy,  tender,  and  rich.    A  superb  variety. 

Golden  llambnrgh. — Bunches  large,  loose,  branching, 
and  shouldered;  berries  large  and  oval;  flesh  tender  and 
melting,  very  juicy,  rich,  sugary,  and  vinous.  An  excel- 
lent early  grape;  should  not  be  allowed  to  hang  long 
after  it  is  ripe. 

Muscat  St.  Laurent.— Bunch  similar  to  Royal  Musca- 
dine; berries  small,  oval;  flesh  very  tender,  melting,  and 
juicy,  with  a  high  Muscat  flavor;  as  hardy  as  a  Sweet- 
water; very  early.     Well  adapted  for  pot  culture. 

Primavis  Frontignan.— Bunciies  large,  long,  shoul- 
dered; berries  medium  to  large,  round;  amber-color;  flesh 
rather  solid,  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich.  One.  of  the 
finest  of  the  early  Muscat  Chasselas  family. 

Royal    Muscadine   (Chasselas   de   Fontainbleaf, 

\etc.). — Bunches   large   and    shouldered;    berries    large, 

greenish- white,  becoming  amber  when  fully  ripe;  flesh 


454  SELECt  rAftlEtlES  OP  ERtJtTS. 

tender,  rich,  aud  delicious.  An  excellent  old  sort;  still 
popular. 

Syrian. — Bunches  euormously  large,  with  broad  shoul- 
ders; berries  large,  oval;  skin  thick,  tawny  yellow,  or 
amber  when  mature;  flesh  tirm  and  solid,  moderately 
juicy  and  sweet;  bunches  weighing  nineteen  and  a  half 
pounds  have  been  grown. 

White  Frontignan, — Bunches  medium,  rather  long, 
not  shouldered;  berries  medium,  round,  dull  white,  or 
yellow,  thin  bloom;  flesh  tender,  rich,  perfumed,  musky. 
An  old  and  favorite  variety,  known  under  many  names; 
it  is  so  very  hardy  in  its  habit  and  uniform  in  productive- 
ness as  to  be  widely  grown  and  esteemed. 

White  Muscat  of  Alexandria. — Bunches  very  large, 
long,  and  loose,  shouldered;  berries  large,  oval,  pale  am- 
ber, with  a  thin,  white  bloom;  flesh  firm,  moderately 
juicy,  sweet,  rich  Muscat  flavor.  An  old,  Avell-known 
variety;  requires  a  high  temperature  to  mature  it  thor- 
oughly. It  is  from  this  that  the  Muscatel  raisins  are 
made.     Succeeds  well  in  tlie  open  air  in  California. 

White  IVice. — Bunch  very  large,  shouldered,  loose;  ber- 
ries medium,  roundish;  greenish-white,  becoming  yellow- 
ish at  maturity;  flesh  sweet,  very  good  flavor.  Bunches 
weighing  eighteen  pounds  have  been  grown.  It  is  very 
prolific. 

sub-teopical  fruits. 

Section  16. — Figs. 

The  culture  of  the  Fig  in  all  of  the  Southern  States, 
California,  and  Utah,  is  as  easy  as  that  of  the  apple  in 
the  Middle  States,  and  it  promises  to  become  one  of  the 
profitable  branches  of  fruit  culture.  In  the  North  they 
are  easily  grown  in  pots  or  tubs. 


tiGS.  455 

Adam. — Very  large,  turbinate,  brownish-purple  ;  leaves 
very  large.     This  is  said  to  be  the  largest  variety  grov/n. 

Ang^liqiie  ( Angelica). — Medium,  obovate  ;  yellow, 
dotted  with  long  greenish-white  specks ;  flesh  white, 
tinged  with  red  at  the  center.     Au  abundant  bearer. 

Brown  Iscliia. — Medium,  roundish-turbinate,  liglit- 
brown  or  chestnut-colored ;  flesh  purple,  sweet,  and 
high-flavored.     An  excellent  bearer. 

Bro\Fn  Turkey. — Large,  pyriform  ;  brownish-red,  cov- 
ered with  bhie  bloom  ;  flesh  red  and  very  luscious.  Tree 
very  hardy  and  prolific. 

Brunswick. — Very  large,  pyriform,  depressed  at  apex  ; 
greenish-yellow,  with  violet-brown  on  the  sun  side  ;  flesh 
tinged  with  red  at  the  center,  rich  and  excellent.  Tree 
cue  of  the  hardiest,  and  a  capital  bearer. 

Early  Violet. — Small,  roundish,  brownish-red,  covered 
with  a  blue  bh)om  ;  flesh  red,  fine  flavored.  Tree  hardy, 
and  an  abundant  bearer.  One  of  tlie  best  for  pots  and 
forcing. 

Preffussata.— Small,  round,  compressed  at  ends;  pur- 
plish-brown, with  pale  spots  in  the  sun  ;  flesh  deep  red, 
rich,  and  luscious.     Hangs  a  long  time. 

White  Genoa. — Large,  roundisn-turbinate;  skin  thin, 
pale  yellowish  ;  flesh  red,  excellent  flavor.  Only  a  mod- 
erate bearer. 

Section  17. — Oranges — Citrus. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Orange  is  now  attracting  more 
attention  in  Florida  and  Southern  California  than  it  has, 
ever  done  before.  In  some  parts  of  Florida — the  Indian 
Eiver  country  in  particular — the  crop  rarely  fails  from 
any  cause,  and  the  fruit  is  of  the  finest  quality.  Where 
the  soil  is  suitable,  and  proper  care  bestowed  on  the  cul- 


450  SELECT  VAEIETIES   OF   FRUITS. 

tivation,  an  orange  grove  must  be  quite  as  profitable  as 
the  best  of  our  Northern  orchards. 

The  trees  bear  annually,  coming  into  bearing  at  four 
or  five  years  from  bud  or  graft,  and  continue  to  improve 
from  year  to  year  for  a  long  period  They  live  to  a  great 
age,  under  fnvorable  circumstances — trees  are  recorded 
that  are  some  four  hundred  years  old. 

The  orange  flourishes  best  in  a  rich  calcareous  soil. 
The  most  thrifty  and  fruitful  plantations  we  saw  were 
on  shell  lauds,  which  occur  frequently  in  Florida — a  dark, 
ricli  loam,  mixed  with  small  shells.  In  the  absence  of 
shells,  lime  will,  no  doubt,  be  beneficial.  The  propaga- 
tion is  similar  to  that  of  other  fruit-trees. 

Stocks  for  grafting  are  either  procured  by  raising  seed- 
lings of  the  Bitter  or  Wild  Orange,  which  can  be  worked 
at  the  age  of  one  or  two  years  from  seed  ;  or  plants  may 
in  some  places  be  procured  from  the  woods.  In  many 
localities  in  Florida,  the  Wild  Orange  abounds  in  the 
woods,  and  seems  to  be  as  much  at  home  as  though  it 
were  indigenous.  The  trees  are  planted  in  groves  at 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  apart.  It  takes  ten  or  twelve  years 
to  bring  the  trees  to  a  really  remunerative  condition. 

After  the  fourth  or  fifth  year  the  crop  will  probably 
pay  for  cultivation. 

VARIETIES. 


There  are  a  great  many  varieties  in  cultivation,  intro- 
duced from  China,  Spain,  and  other  orange-growing 
countries,  but  that  generally  grown  in  Florida,  which 
was  no  doubt  introduced  by  the  Spaniards,  has  no  su- 
perior.    It  is  known  as  the 

St,  AHSiistine  Orange,  a  variety  of  the  Sweet  Orange, 
often  sold  in  the  markets  under  local  names,  such  as 
*'MellonviUe/'  "Indian   River,"    etc.      It  is  a  large. 


ORANGES.  457 

handsome  fruit,  with  moderately  thin  skin,  somewliafc 
rough  ;  pulp  full  of  sweet,  sprightl}^  delicious  juice.  It 
resembles  the  Cuba  Orange,  but  seems  to  be  larger  and  of 
better  quality. 

The  Havana. — This  is  the  most  common  in  our  mar- 
kets, and  best  known.  A  large,  excellent  fruit ;  quite 
similar  to  the  preceding. 

The  Maltese,  or  Malta  Blood,  has  a  thick  and  spongy 
rind ;  pulp  red  and  delicious,  but  sometimes  a  trace  of 
bitterness. 

The  Mandarin  is  a  small,  flattened  fruit,  tliin  rind, 
with  a  dark  orange  pulp  ;  juicy  and  rich. 

The  Bergamot  has  small  flowers  and  jiear-shaped  fruit ; 
very  fragrant;  the  oil  is  much  used  by  perfumers. 

The  Variegated-Leaved  is  a  variety  with  variegated 
foliage  ;  ornamental. 

The  Shaddock  {Citrus  decumana)  is  a  fruit  of  great 
size,  striking  in  appearance,  but  not  of  value,  except  for 
confectionery. 

The  Tangerine  is  small,  sweet,  and  rich ;  very  pro- 
lific.    One  of  the  best  for  pot  culture. 

The  Otaheite  is  a  small  A^ariety,  a  dwarf-growing  kind  ; 
blooms  and  bears  abundantly  when  not  over  a  foot  high. 

The  St.  Michaels  is  a  medium-sized  fruit,  pale  yellow, 
with  a  thin  rind,  very  delicious;  the  tree  an  abundant 
bearer.      Chiefly  grown   in  the   Portuguese  Island    St. 

Michael. 

The  Myrtle-Leaved  (or  Chinese)  is  a  small-fruited 
variety,  a  dwarf  tree  ;  more  curious  than  profitable. 

Besides  these  are  the  Egg,  Embiguo  or  Navel,  Silver, 
Peruamlnico,    Exquisite,    Du    Koi,    Excelsior,    Prolific, 
20 


458  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  FRUITS. 

Dulcississima,   and   several   others  recently  introduced, 
some  of  which  may  prove  to  be  valuable. 

LEMON   AND   LIME. 

The  Lemon  {Citrus  Limonium)  is  not  as  hardy  as  the 
orange,  and  is  improved  by  being  worked  upon  the  bitter- 
orange  stock.    There  is  an  Italian  variety  which  is  sweet. 

The  Lime  {Citrus  Limetta). — Several  varieties  in  cul- 
tivation. That  commonly  grown  is  a  profuse  bearer. 
Hedges  are  formed  of  it  in  tlie  West  Indies.  It  is  grown 
extensively  in  California,  and  is  very  profitable.  It  is 
used  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  lemon,  and  for  pre- 
serves. 

THE  POMEGRANATE. 

The  Pomegranate  is  a  native  of  China  and  the  south 
of  Europe,  and  its  culture  in  our  Southern  States  and 
California  is  perfectly  successful.  It  is  a  low,  deciduous 
tree,  with  long,  narrow  leaves.  The  fruit  has  a  very  re- 
freshing, sweet,  rather  acid  pulp,  and  its  singular  and 
beautiful  appearance  makes  it  a  welcome  addition  to  the 
dessert.  The  tree  is  propagated  like  other  fruit  trees, 
by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  grafting,  etc.,  and  grows 
readily  in  any  ordinary  good  garden  soil. 

The  varieties  known  as  the  best  are:  the  Sweet-fruited, 
with  sweet  and  juicy  pulp;  the  Suh-acld- fruited,  which  is 
the  variety  commonly  grown  in  gardens;  the  Violet,  yfhich. 
is  a  large  and  late  variety,  and  the  Wild  or  Acid-fruited, 
with  a  sharp  acid  flavor. 

The  Pomegranate  is  also  a  highly  ornamental  shrub, 
and  its  varieties  with  double  red  and  double  white  flowers 
are  especially  attractive  and  desirable. 


ALMONDS.  459 

THE   PAWPAW    OR   CUSTAED   APPLE. 

The  Custard  Apple,  a  variety  of  whicli,  Aslmlna  triloba^ 
commonly  called  Pawpaw,  is  a  native  of  Kentucky, 
Southern  Ohio,  etc.  It  is  a  small,  deciduous  tree,  easily 
propagated  by  seeds  or  grafting. 

Tlie  Custard  Apple  of  Peru  and  other  trojiical  coun- 
tries {Anoua  Cherimolia)  is  described  as  a  superior  fruit, 
and  highly  esteemed  for  the  dessert.  The  A.  jndusfris, 
A.  squamosa,  and  A.  muricata  are  esteemed  West  India 
fruits. 

fourth    division. — almonds,    chestnuts,   filberts, 
and  walnuts. 

Section  18. — Almonds. 

Sweet  Hard-shell. — This  is  a  hardy  and  productive 
variety,  succeeding  well  in  the  climate  of  Western  -New 
York,  and  still  further  North.  Nut  very  large,  with  a 
hard  shell  and  a  large,  sweet  kernel;  ripe  here  about  the 
first  of  October.  The  tree  is  very  vigorous,  has  smooth, 
glaucous  leaves,  and  when  in  bloom  in  the  spring  is  more 
brilliant  and  showy  than  any  other  fruit  tree. 

Soft  Sweet-shell,  Ladies'  Thin-shell,  etc.— This  is /7?6 
almond  of  the  shops,  of  wliich  such  immense  quantities 
are  annually  imported  from  abroad.  It  and  all  its  sub- 
varieties,  so  far  as  we  know,  are  too  tender  for  our  North- 
ern climate,  unless  carefully  grown  on  a  wall  or  trellis, 
and  protected.  South  of  Virginia,  we  believe,  it  succeeds 
well;  and  so  beautiful  a  tree,  and  so  estimable  a  fruit,  de- 
serve the  attention  of  all  fruit-growers.  Very  succesfully 
grown  in  California. 

The  Bitter  Almond. — This  is  hardy  and  productive; 
nut  similar  to  the  first-named  in  appearance,  but  bitter. 


460  SELECT  VARIETIES   OF  FRUITS. 

and  only  useful  in  coufcctionery  or  medicine.  Its  cliief 
product  is  the  oil  of  bitter  almonds  of  the  druggists, 
which  contains  prussic  acid. 

Section  19. — Chestnuts. 

The  American  or  ('ommon  Chestnut  is  well  known  as 
one  of  our  most  beautiful  forest-trees.  It  is  seldom 
grown  as  a  fruit  tree,  although  the  fruit  is  highly  es- 
teemed. It  should  have  a  place  in  all  large  collections 
of  standard  fruit  trees.     It  reproduces  itself  from  seed. 

The  Dwarf  Chestnut,  or  Chinquapin,  is  a  small  tree, 
eight  or  ten  feet  high,  and  very  prolific,  but  the  nuts  are 
small.  It  grows  spontaneously  in  Maryland,  Virginia, 
and  southward. 

The  Spanish  Chestnut  or  Marron. — Tiiis  is  the  large, 
sweet  nut,  as  large  as  a  horse  chestnut,  imported  from 
abroad.  There  are  many  varieties  cultivated  in  France 
and  England,  but  that  designated  by  the  French  as 
"  Marron  de  Lyon,^'  is  the  best.  It  is  propagated  by 
grafting  on  the  common  sorts.  It  is  not  rejiroduced 
truly  from  seed,  but  its  seedlings  produce  large  and  fine 
fruits.  It  bears  and  ripens  well  as  far  north  as  Rochester. 
It  bears  the  second  year  from  the  graft  and  the  fourth 
from  seed. 

Section  20. — Filberts. 

1.  Cosford. — This  is  an  improved  variety  of  the  Eng- 
lish hazel-nut,  very  prolific,  nut  large,  oblong,  or.  oval; 
shell  thin,  and  kernel  fine  flavored. 

2.  Cohurj?. — Large  and  fine,  and  a  most  abundant 
bearer. 

3.  Dwarf  Prolific. — One  of  the^-most  prolific  bearers, 
nut  rather  smalx;  kernel  ffood. 


WALNUTS.  4G] 

4.  Frizzloil.— Iicmarkiible  for  its  curious  frizzled  liusk, 
a  good  bearer,  and  one  of  the  finest  llavorcd. 

5.  Rcd-Skilllied.— One  of  tlic  old  standard  sorts  of  the 
English  growers,  distinguished  by  the  bright  red  or  crim- 
son skin  of  the  kernel;  medium  size,  egg-shaped,  sliell 
thick,  flavor  good. 

G,  White. — This  is  also  an  old  standard  sort;  the  ker- 
nel is  a  yellowish  white.  Botli  this  and  tlie  preceding 
have  long  husks. 

Section  21. — Walnuts. 

The  Enn^lish  Walnut  or  i>Iadcira  IVut  {Juglansregia). — 
A  native  of  Persia.  A  lofty,  spreading  tree,  with  pin- 
nated leaves  like  the  butternut,  and  tlie  fruit  nearly  as 
large.  Great  quantities  are  annually  imported  and  sold 
in  the  fruit  shops. 

The  tree  is  tender  Avliile  young,  the  ends  of  the  young 
shoots  being  injured  in  winter  at  the  North,  but  as  it 
grows  older,  it  becomes  hardier.  It  is  produced  from 
seed  or  by  grafting.  There  are  many  varieties  of  it  cul- 
tivated abroad,  few  of  which  have  yet  been  hitroduced 
here,  on  account  of  the  little  attention  given  to  this  class 
of  fruits.  Is  now  being  extensively  planted  in  (California, 
where  it  succeeds  well. 

The  Dwarf  Prolifle  Walnut  {Juglans  prceimrturicns) 
is  a  French  variety,  most  desirable  for  the  garden.  It 
bears  at  the  age  of  three  years  from  the  seed,  and  often 
at  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet. 

Our  native  sorts,  the  Black  AValnut  {Juglans  nigra), 
the  Butternut  {Juglans  cinerea),  the  Hickory-Nut 
{Carya),  and  its  varieties,  arc  all  well-known  trees  that 
deserve  much  more  attention  tlian  they  receive,  consid- 
ering the  value  of  their  timber  as  well  as  their  fruit. 


CHAPTER  n. 

GATHEKHTG,     fTACK.XNG,    TRANSPOETATION,   AND    PKESBRVA 
TION    OF    FKUITS. 

This  is  a  branch  of  the  general  subject  of  fruit  culture 
and  managem<}nt  that  requires  the  most  careful  attention ; 
for  it  is  quite  useless  to  take  pains  in  producing  fine  fruits, 
■without  taking  equal  pains  in  gathering,  preserving,  and 
sending  them  to  the  table  or  the  market  in  a  sound, 
sightly,  and  proper  condition.  Very  few  fruit-growers 
seem  to  appreciate  this  part  of  their  business.  Fruit- 
dealers  at  home  and  abroad  complain  of  the  careless  and 
slovenly  manner  in  which  our  fruits  are  gathered,  packed, 
and  presented  in  the  market,  and  would  gladly  pay  a  dou- 
ble price  for  them  in  a  better  condition.  The  first  con- 
sideration is : 

The  period  of  maturity  at  tchich  fruits  should  be 
gathered. — The  stone  fruits  generally  are  allowed  to  reach 
perfect  maturity,  or  within  four  or  five  days  of  it,  on  the 
tree. 

In  moist,  cool  seasons,  particularly,  they  are  benefited 
by  being  gathered  a  few  days  before  maturity,  and  allow- 
ed to  ripen  in  a  dry,  warm  room;  they  part  with  the 
water  contained  in  their  juices,  which  thus  become  better 
elaborated  and  more  sugary  and  high-flavored. 

Summer  Pears,  too,  on  the  same  principle,  require  to 
be  gathered,  as  a  general  thing,  from  a  week  to  a  fort- 
463 


;  -  GATHERING  FRUITS,    ETC.  463 

night  before  their  maturity.  Sweet  varieties,  and  such  as 
are  inclined  to  become  mealy ^  are  entirely  worthless  when 
ripened  on  the  tree,  and  many  very  excellent  varieties 
are  condemned  on  this  account.  Such  as  these  should  be 
gathered  the  moment  the  skin  begins  to  change  color  in 
the  least  degree. 

Summer  Apples,  too,  and  especially  those  inclined  to 
mealiness,  should  be  picked  early ;  as  soon  as  the  skin 
begins  to  change  color,  otherwise  they  part  with  their 
juices,  and  become  worthless.  Ri])eness  is  indicated  by 
the  seeds  turning  dark-colored,  and  by  the  stem  parting 
readily  from  the  tree  when  it  is  lifted  upwards. 

Winter  Apples  and  Pears  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
on  the  trees  as  long  as  vegetation  is  active,  or  until  frosts 
are  apprehended. 

Grapes,  JBerries,  etc.,  are  allowed  to  attain  perfect 
maturity  before  being  gathered. 

Chestnuts,  Filberts,  etc.,  are  not  gathered  until  they  be- 
gin to  fall  from  the  tree. 

3fode  of  Gathering. — Unless  it  be  a  few  specimens 
wanted  for  immediate  use,  which  may  be  taken  with  some 
of  the  contrivances  mentioned  under  the  head  of  imple- 
ments, all  fruits  should  be  gathered  by  the  hand.  The 
branch  to  be  gathered  from  should  be  taken  in  one  hand, 
and  the  fruits  carefully  taken  off,  one  by  one,  with  the  other, 
with  their  stems  attached.  (For  fruits  neither  keep  so  well, 
nor  look  so  well,  without  the  stems.)  They  are  then  laid 
carefully  in  single  layers  in  broad,  shallow  baskets,  the  bot- 
toms of  which  should  be  covered  with  paper  or  moss,  to 
prevent  bruises.  Peaches  and  other  soft  fruits  should  be 
pressed  as  lightly  as  possible,  for  anything  like  a  squeeze 
is  certainly  followed  by  decay  in  the  form  of  a  brown 
spot,  and  this  is  the  reason  Avhy  it  is  so  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  find  a  perfectly  somid  and  at  the  same  time  rip$ 
peach  in  our  markets. 


464  GATHERING    FRUITS,    ETC.      ^ 

When  more  than  one  layer  of  fruit  is  laid  in  the  same 
basket,  some  soft  paper,  dry  moss,  hay,  or  other  material, 
ought  to  separate  them,  for  it  is  difficult  to  place  one  layer 
immediately  upon  another,  and  especially  if  the  fruits  are 
approaching  maturity,  without  bruising  them  more  or  less. 
Fruit  should  only  be  gathered  in  dry  weather,  and  in  the 
dry  time  of  the  day. 

Dlspositio)i  of  the  Fruits  after  gathering. — When  they 
are  thus  in  the  baskets,  if  summer  fruits,  tliey  are  either 
carried  into  the  fruit-room  and  arranged  on  shelves  or 
tables  in  thin  layers,  or  they  are  carefully  transferred,  one 
by  one,  into  market-baskets  and  carried  to  market  on  an 
easy  spring  wagon,  if  not  by  steamboat  or  railroad,  by 
which  jarring  or  jolting  will  be  avoided.  Treated  in  this 
manner,  they  will  be  in  a  marketable  condition,  and  one 
basket  will  sell  for  as  much  as  four,  carelessly  picked, 
thrown  into  baskets,  and  tumbled  out  of  them  into  a  barrel 
or  wagon-box. 

Ripe  fruits  may  be  kept  in  good  condition  for  a  consid- 
erable period  of  time,  in  an  ice-house,  or  in  some  of  the 
recently-invented  fruit-preservers,  and  even  in  very  cool, 
dry  cellars.  The  vessels  in  which  they  are  deposited 
should  be  perfectly  clean,  that  no  unpleasant  flavor  may 
be  imparted  to  them.  Peaches  have  been  sent  to  the  East 
Indies,  by  being  properly  packed  in  ice  ;  and  it  may  be 
that  methods  of  packing  and  pi-eserving  will,  before  long, 
be  discovered,  that  will  give  us  access  to  the  markets  of 
other  countries,  even  for  our  perishable  summer  fruits. 
W^e  have  seen  8eckel  pears  in  a  very  good  state  of  preser- 
vation in  January.  The  science  of  I'ipening  and  preserving 
fruits  is  but  in  its  infancy,  and  horticultural  societies 
that  have  the  means  will  be  doing  a  great  public  service 
by  offering  liberal  premiums  that  will  incite  to  experiment 
on  the  subject. 

Winter  Fruits  intended  for  long  keeping  are  transferred 


GATHERING    FRUITS,    ETC.  405 

by  hand  from  the  baskets  in  which  they  are  gathered  on 
the  tree,  into  larger  ones  in  which  they  can  be  carried  into 
a  dry,  cool  room,  where  they  are  laid  in  heaps,  which  may 
be  three  or  four  deep,  where  they  may  remain  for  a  couple 
of  weeks,  during  which  time  they  will  have  pai'ted  witli 
considerable  moisture  and  be  quite  dry.  They  will  then 
be  fit  for  packing. 

Clean,  new  barrels  should  be  procured,  and  the  fruits 
should  be  carefully  assorted.  For  sliipj^ing  to  distant  or 
foreign  markets,  the  best  only  should  be  selected  ;  all 
bruised,  wormy,  knotty  specimens  being  laid  aside  for 
home  consumption.  They  are  then  placed  in  the  barrels, 
by  hand,  arranged  regularly  in  layers,  so  that  no  spaces 
will  exist,  by  Avhich  the  fruits  may  shift,  roll,  or  knock 
against  one  another.  The  barrels  are  then  tightly  lieaded 
up,  so  that  the  head  presses  firmly  on  the  fruits ;  some 
people  recommend  placing  a  layer  of  clean  moss  or  soft 
paper,  both  on  the  bottom  and  top  of  the  barrel ;  but  this 
is  not  necessary  where  the  packing  and  heading  are  per- 
formed carefully.  After  i)acking,  the  barrels  must  be 
sent  to  market  in  such  a  manner  as  never  to  be  jolted  or 
rolled,'  any  more  than  they  would  be  on  men's  shoulders, 
or  an  easy  spring  wagon  or  sled,  or  by  a  water  convey- 
ance. 

On  shipboard,  the  barrels  should  be  placed  in  the  coolest 
and  dryest  place.  It  is  perfectly  idle  to  gather,  pack,  or 
ship  fruits  in  any  other  way  than  this  to  foreign  markets. 
American  apples  are  frequently  sold  in  Liverpool  at  auction 
for  half  what  they  would  have  sold  for  in  New- York,  on 
account  of  their  bad  condition.  I  saw  this  in  1849,  wdien 
Newtown  pippins  were  selling  at  twelve  and  a  half  cents 
apiece  in  the  fruit-shops. 

Winter  fruits  for  home  cons^nnption  should  be  care- 
fully assorted,  keeping  the  best,  the  poorest,  the  sound, 
the  bruised,  and  the  earlier  and  later  ripening  varieties 
all  separate ;  when  sound  and  bruised,  early  and  late,  are 


4GG  PACKING,   MARKING,    SHIPPING,   ETC. 

all  thrown  together  promiscuously,  they  cannot  fail  to 
decay  speedily  and  to  lose  their  flavor;  for  two  or  three 
decaying  apples  in  a  heap  or  barrel  will  taint  the  flavor 
of  all,  and  hasten  the  decay  of  those  around  them.  This 
arrangement  into  grades  and  classes  is,  therefore,  absolutely 
necessary  even  for  the  fruits  needed  for  family  use ;  and 
when  they  are  so  arranged,  the  sound,  long-keepers  are  put 
into  clean,  new  barrels,  carefully,  by  hand,  and  the  barrels 
headed  up  tightly  and  placed  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar  or  fruit- 
room.  The  bruised  ones  can  be  laid  in  a  place  by  them- 
selves for  immediate  use.  Every  barrel,  when  packed, 
should  be  marked. 

Winter  jPears,  as  a  general  thing,  require  to  be  brought 
into  a  warm  temperature  one  or  two  weeks  before  they 
are  wanted  for  table  use.  All  the  baking  and  stewing, 
and  even  many  of  the  table  varieties,  may  be  treated  ex* 
actly  like  appples. 

PACKING,   MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC. 

In  all  that  relates  to  the  labor  of  preparing  fruits  for 
market,  great  care  is  requisite,  and  we  cannot  do  bet- 
ter than  to  copy  the  following  very  concise  and  practical 
directions  prepared  by  a  large  and  experienced  shipping- 
house  from  long  observance  of  the  requisites  needed  for 
success : 

"  Tacking. — In  packing  Apples,  Pears,  Berries,  etc.,  do 
not  face  your  fruit  more  than  it  will  bear,  for  if  a  buyer  is 
once  deceived  in  buying  a  mark  of  fruit,  he  will  discount 
the  mark  in  buying  again,  or  refuse  to  l)uy  it  at  all ;  while  if 
it  runs  uniform^  and  gives  satisfaction,  it  is  eagerly  sought 
after,  and  the  seller  can  get  increased  price  by  the  compe- 
tition. Also  bear  in  mind  that  good  fruit,  etc.,  well  put 
up  and  reaching  here  in  good  order,  always  sells,  even 
when  the  market  is  glutted  ;  while  fruit,  etc.,  poorly  put 
19* 


PACKING,    MARKING,    SUIPPING,    ETC.  407 

up,  can  sometimes  be  scarcely  given  away,  thereby  caus- 
ing dissatisfaction  to  the  shipper  on  account  of  poor  re- 
turns, and  disgust  to  the  receiver,  because  they  have  had 
to  sacrifice  it,  when  a  little  pains  taken  with  the  article 
would  have  caused  a  different  result.  Nothing  is  gained 
in  packing  fruit,  etc.  (which  is  sold  by  the  package),  in 
short  packages,  that  is  for  barrels  to  be  less  than  flour-bar- 
rel size,  or  baskets  to  hold  twelve  or  fourteen  quarts, 
when  they  should  hold  half  a  bushel,  or  in  boxes  less  than 
measure  intended.  If  fruit  is  too  ripe  or  soft  to  pack  in 
full-size  packages,  pack  in  those  of  half  or  even  quarter- 
size,  but  by  all  means  give  full  measure,  and  try  to  pack 
your  packages  so  tight  that,  upon  arrival,  they  will  open 
full  and  not  look  as  though  there  was  not  enough  of  the 
article  to  fill  them.  Besides  fruit,  etc.,  will  come  a  longer 
distance  and  arrive  in  far  better  order,  by  bemg  packed 
full,  even  to  slight  jamming,  than  if  packed  loose.  AVith 
the  rough  and  severe  handling,  that  all  ])ackages  get  more 
or  less,  the  articles  are  very  likely  to  be  badly  bruised  in 
coming.  All  packages  shouLl  be  neat  and  clean  ;  and  bar- 
rels, boxes,  and  crates  sold  with  the  articles  should,  if  ]>08- 
sible,  be  new,  as  the  package  helps  shov/  the  contents  to 
better  advantage,  and  will  sell  the  better  from  the  evident 
pains  bestowed  upon  it. 

^^  3farJcmg. — Always  mark  each  package  plainly  and 
neat,  with  the  name  or  initials  of  consignor,  and  the  net 
weight  or  count  of  contents  of  each. 

'■^Shijyping. — All  perishable  fruits,  such  as  peaches,  plums, 
berries,  etc.,  should  be  sent  by  the  quickest  conveyance. 
Receipts  should  be  taken  from  trans[iortation  compa- 
nies. Advices,  with  a  full  and  correct  invoice,  should  be 
sent  by  mail.  A  duplicate  invoice  should  be  put  in  one 
of  the  packages,  marked  Bill.  There  is  nothing  so  vexa- 
tious to  a  commission  house,  as  the  receipt  of  consign- 
ments not  properly  or  distinctly  marked,  and  no  advices  of 
the  same. 


4G8  PACKING,    MARKING,    SHIPPING,    ETC 

*'  Handling. — All  fruit,  of  whatever  kind,  should  be  han- 
dled with  the  greatest  care,  so  as  not  to  bruise  it,  even 
slightly,  as  oftentimes  where  a  little  bruise  does  not  show 
when  fruit  is  packed,  in  ten  or  twelve  hours  afterwards 
the  article  is  half,  if  not  totally  destroyed,  causing  the 
fruit  in  contact  with  it  to  also  decay,  and  injuring  the  sale 
of  the  same,  as  buyers  will  discount  imperfect  or  decayed 
fruit.  Great  care  should  also  be  taken  in  handling  the 
packages  after  fruit  is  packed,  as  a  blow  or  fall  will  pene- 
trate through  the  entire  package,  bruising  the  contents 
oftentimes  badly. 

'"'•  Apples. — Assort  those  uniform  in  size  and  quality,  pack 
in  clean  barrels;  take  out  one  head,  commence  packing  by 
placing  a  tier  of  apples  with  their  ends  to  the  closed  head 
of  the  barrel,  then  fill  up  without  bruising  the  fruit,  shake 
down  thoroughly,  and  fill  the  barrel  so  full  that  the  head 
must  be  pressed  in  with  a  lever,  flattening  the  last  tier  of 
apples,  and  even  starting  the  juice.  Nail  the  head  and 
hoops  with  four-penny  nails,  turn  the  barrel  over,  and  on 
the  head  not  oi)ened  mark  plainly  the  variety  in  each  bar- 
rel. Apples  packed  in  this  way  show  a  fine,  handsome 
face  when  opened. 

'"''  Pears. — This  delicate  fruit  must  be  packed  and  shipped 
when  it  is  fully  matured  and  before  it  has  ripened,  so  as  to 
insure  arrival  in  good  order.  Pears  are  not  as  elastic  as 
apples.  Line  the  sides,  top,  and  bottom  of  the  barrel  or 
package  with  straw-paper,  to  prevent  the  fruit  being 
stained  by  the  wood  of  the  barrel  or  package.  Assort  and 
pack  same  as  apples,  except  placing  the  blossom-end  of 
the  fruit  upon  the  end  not  opened.  When  the  barrel  is 
full,  press  the  head  in  firmly  without  starting  the  juice. 
Summer  Pears,  if  over  two  days  on  the  way,  should  be 
ventilated,  otherwise  the  package  should  be  tight,  as  the 
fruit  will  ripen  more  uniformly  and  hold  its  color 
better." 

Packing  Pears  for  Distant  Markets. — The  French  send 


PACKING,    MARKIKG,   SlllFPING,   ETC.  4G9 

away  more  pears  to  foreign  markets  ihan  any  other  ])co- 
ple.  Tliey  pack  tliem  in  small  boxes,  either  round  or 
square,  such  as  a  man  can  carry  easily  in  his  hands. 
Our  own  practice  is  to  wrap  each  fruit  in  soft  paper, 
and  then  pack  so  tightly  as  to  prevent  all  motion  in 
bushel  and  ludf-bushel  boxes. 

They  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  very  dry  moss 
or  soft,  dry  paper,  well  calculated  to  absorb  moisture. 
They  then  wrap  each  fruit  in  the  dry,  soft  pa})er,  and  lay 
them  in  layers,  the  largest  and  least  mature  in  the  bottom, 
and  fill  all  the  interstices  with  dry  moss  or  paper.  I  have 
seen  these  boxes  opened  in  London,  in  the  finest  con- 
dition, after  being  packed  a  month.  They  are  so  tightly 
packed  that  the  slightest  movement  cannot  take  place 
among  them,  and  yet  no  one  presses  upon  another.  The 
dry  moss  and  paper  that  separate  them,  absorb  any  mois- 
ture ;  and  if  one  decays,  it  does  not  affect  others. 
•  Some  of  the  Paris  confectioners  and  restaurant-keepers 
preserve  fruits  very  successfully  in  barrels,  packed  in  lay- 
ers, and  the  interstices  filled  up  with  jwwdered  charcoal. 
The  barrels  ai"e  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  about  forty 
degrees,  where  they  are  not  subjected  to  changes  of  tem- 
perature. Apples,  pears,  grapes,  almonds,  nuts,  and  pota- 
toes, are  all  preserved  in  this  manner. 

"  Peaches. — Pack  in  stave  baskets  holding  half  of  a 
bushel ;  they  are  firmer  than  splint  baskets,  and  protect 
the  fruit  better.  Sort  uniform  as  to  size  and  quality.  Fill 
your  baskets  rounding  full.  Tie  a  cover  over  the  top  of 
the  basket,  so  that  the  fruit  Avill  not  be  liable  to  shake.  Or 
they  can  be  jiacked  in  slat  crates  holding  a  bushel,  with  a 
partition  across  the  crate  at  an  equal  distance  from  each  end. 

"  Quinces. — Sort  to  run  uniform,  pack  in  barrel  same  as 
apples,  except  that  the  blossom  end  of  the  fruit  should  be 
placed  to  the  end  not  opened.  When  the  barrel  is  full, 
press  in  head  harder  than  for  pears,  but  not  as  tight  as 
apples. 


470  PACKING,   MARKING,   SHIPPING,    ETC. 

"  /Strawberries.— All  large  berries  should  be  packed  in 
quart  boxes  or  baskets,  twenty-l\)ur  or  thirty  to  the  crate. 
In  filling  the  boxes,  put  in  berries  of  uniform  size,  reject- 
ing all  soft  ones  ;  face  the  box  with  nice  fruit,  and  fill  it 
rounding  full,  so  that  when  packed  in  crates  the  upper  box 
wall  slightly  press  the  fruit  in  the  lower  box,  Tlie  small 
varieties  of  strawberries  can  be  packed  in  a  little  larger 
crate,  or  packed  in  half-bushel  drawers,  four  drawers  to  a 
stand. 

"  Haspberries  should  be  packed  in  a  quart  box  or 
basket.  The  fruit  should  be  carefully  picked,  boxes  well 
filled,  and  packed  in  crates  of  twenty-four  and  thirty 
quarts. 

"  Currants  can  be  packed  in  half-bushel  or  bushel 
drawers,  and  equally  as  well  in  baskets;  and  Avhen  filled 
should  be  well  rounded. 

"  Cherries. — Same  as  curi'ants  ;  but  think  a  clean  half- 
bushel  basket  preferable,  with  a  paper  or  cloth  cover. 
They  should  be  well  packed. 

^'■blackberries. — Pack  in  boxes  holding  a  quart  or  pint 
■ — twenty-four  or  thirty-six  quarts  to  a  crate.  Fill  and  sort 
the  same  as  strawberries.  When  the  crate  is  full,  place  a 
sheet  of  straw-paper  over  the  upper  row  of  boxes,  so  that 
it  will  exclude  the  air  and  help  retain  the  color  of  the  fruit. 

"  Plums. — The  fancy  kinds  should  be  packed  in  small 
boxes  or  fancy  baskets;  while  the  common  kinds  can  be 
packed  in  half-bushel  or  bushel  boxes  or  baskets,  the  same 
as  peaches."     They  sell  best  in  small  packages. 

Grapes^  when  fully  ripe,  should  be  taken,  a  single 
cluster  at  a  time,  and  all  imperfect  berries  cut  from  the 
bunch.  They  can  be  packed  in  three,  five,  six,  ten,  or  twelve- 
pound  boxes;  or  if  going  but  a  short  distance,  in  clean 
baskets  of  ten  to  twenty  pounds,  and  covered  with  a 
cloth.  In  packing,  take  off"  the  cover  of  the  box,  line  the 
inside  with  thin  white  paper,  commence  filling  with  whole 
bunches,  pack  close  as  possible  without  jamming,  611  up 


PACKING,    MARKING,     SHIPPING,    BTC.  471 

with  bunches,  parts  of  bunches,  then  single  grapes, 
but  with  a  stem,  so  that  all  space  is  occupied,  and  the 
fruit  projects  from  the  top,  from,  a  quarter  to  half 
an  inch.  Turn  over  the  paper  used  in  lining,  nail  the 
cover-points  down,  reverse  the  box,  and  paste  a  label,  stat- 
ing the  variety  of  the  grape,  on  the  cover  that  was  not 
opened. 

Fimit-Rootns. — A  fruit-room  is  a  structure  set  apart 
exclusively  for  the  preservation  of  fruit.  Its  great  requi- 
sites are,  perfect  security  from  moisture  oi-  dampness,  ex- 
clusion from  light,  and  a  uniform  temperature.  If  these 
points  are  obtained,  no  matter  where,  how,  or  of  what 
material  the  fruit-room  be  constructed.  It  may  be  built 
of  stone,  brick,  clay,  or  wood,  above  or  below  ground,  as 
circumstances  or  taste  may  dictate. 

A  good,  dry,  and  cool  cellar  is  as  good  a  place  for 
keeping  fruit  as  can  be  provided ;  but  the  great  objection 
to  cellars  used  for  other  purposes  is,  tliat  currents  of  air 
are  frequently  admitted,  and  too  much  light,  l)y  which  the 
temperature  is  changed,  decay  promoted,  or  the  fruits  dried 
and  shriveled.  There  are,  also,  other  objects  that  un- 
avoidably saturate  the  air  more  or  less  with  moisture. 

Where  a  fruit-room  is  built  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
it  should  be  on  the  ice-house  principle  of  double  walls  and 
doors,  to  prevent  access  of  either  heat  or  cold  from  with- 
out. A  good  cellar  or  cave,  built  in  a  dry,  sandy,  or 
gravelly  bank,  or  side-hill,  will  answer  every  purpose. 
The  walls  may  be  of  stone,  brick,  or  timber  ;  the  roof  should 
be  thick,  with  a  slope  sufficient  to  throw  off  water  freely, 
and  the  earth  about  should  also  be  so  graded,  that  water 
will  flow  away  as  fast  as  it  falls.  Provision  may  be  made 
for  lighting  and  ventilating  in  the  roof,  and  the  door  or 
doors  should  be  double. 

The  interior  should  be  fitted  up  with  shelves  and  bins, 
with  places  for  barrels  or  other  articles,  in  which  fruits 
are  packed. 


472  PACKING,   MARKING,    SHIPPING,   ETC. 

A  cheap  and  effective  fruit-house  has  long  been  a  desid- 
eratum, and  many  i)atents  have  been  obtained.  The  ma- 
jority of  tliem,  however,  have  proved  expensive  failures. 
The  best  house  we  have  seen  was  erected  several  years 
ago  by  a  firm  in  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  from  whose  circular 
we  extract  the  following: 

"  When  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere  is  obtained  by 
excessive  ventilation,  not  only  is  the  temperature  of  the 
apartment  increased,  but  the  ice  is  melted  with  great 
rapidity.  To  dry  the  atmosphere  by  the  use  of  absorb- 
ents is  also  a  very  expensive  and  troublesome  process. 

"  In  a  room  cooled  to  38°  Fahrenheit,  and  kept  perfect- 
ly dry,  the  decomposition  of  fruit  is  very  slow.  Fruit 
may  be  kept  sound  and  good  for  three  or  four  months,  or 
longer.  The  cooler  the  house,  the  drier  it  will  naturally 
become,  but  when  the  natural  tendency  is  aided  by  philo- 
sophical construction,  it  will  be  perceived  that  the  object 
may  be  more  easily  accomplished. 

"  Decomposing  organic  matter  will  of  course  throw  off, 
and,  in  fact,  generate  moisture  ;  but  when  the  process  of 
decomposition  is  reduced  to  the  lowest  point,  or  suspended 
altogether,  then  less  moisture  will  be  present. 

"  The  foul  gases,  or  odors,  emanating  from  decaying 
vegetables  being  volatile,  are  easily  removed  ;  but  the 
removal  of  moisture,  or  aqueous  vapor,  is  more  difficult. 

"  The  last  difficulty — the  removal  of  moisture, without  the 
use  of  artificial  absorbents — has  been  overcome  by  this  in- 
vention, in  the  most  perfect  manner,  without  any  ex- 
pensive machinery,  or  any  daily  cost  in  working  the  house. 

"  The  ap{)aratus  can  be  applied  to  large  or  small  rooms, 
or  even  closets  and  refrigerators,  with  equal  ease  and  suc- 
cess ;  and  from  the  very  nature  of  things,  being  based 
upon  the  strictest  natural  laws,  is  the  only  plan  that  can 
produce  the  desired  results,  without  the  use  of  absorbents 
or  driers. 

"  Fruit,  in  a  state  of  moist  decay,  on  being  put  into  the 


PACKING,    MARKING,     SHIPPING,    ETC.  473 

fruit-rooia,  directly  Ijecomes  dried  to  sucli  ;i  dcgiee  that 
all  the  moisture  on  the  decaying  spots  disappears,  and  the 
spots  themselves  become  covered  with  a  dried  i)L'llicle- 
like  court-plaster,  and  the  rot  ceases.  The  drying  process, 
however,  is  not  such  as  to  produce  shriveling  in  apples  or 
pears,  for  the  reason  tliat  only  the  external  moisture  is 
removed,  and  the  interior  flesh  of  the  fruit  remains  un- 
changed. 

"  In  this  connection  may  be  demonstrated  the  fallacy  of 
the  common  idea  that  fruit  just  gathered  from  the  tree 
must  undergo  a  process  o^ sweating  before  it  is  fit  to  be  put 
into  the  cellar  or  fruit-room.  The  simple  truth  is,  that  fruit 
which  has  been  cooled  by  any  means  will  always  sweat 
when  it  is  brought  into  a  warm  atmosphere,  not  because 
the  juice  passes  out  of  it,  but  because  the  moisture  in  hot 
air  always  condenses  on  a  cold  surface.  On  the  contrary, 
fruit  taken  from  the  tree,  on  a  warm  day,  and  put  imme- 
diately into  a  cold  fruit-room,  never  siceafs.  The  process 
of  sweating  in  apples  and  pears  may  be  repeated  a  hun- 
dred times  by  cooling  the  fruit  in  a  cellar,  and  then  bring- 
ing them  suddenly  into  a  hot  room.  A  cold  apple  will 
always  sweat  in  hot  air. 

"  The  ordinary  working  temperature  obtained  by  means 
of  ice,  is  about  38°  to  40"  Fahrenheit.  But  by  the  use  of 
suitable  apparatus,  with  salt  and  crushed  ice,  as  in  the  ice- 
cream freezer,  a  room  may  be  cooled  below  the  freezing 
point." 

Attention  to  Fruits  in  the  Cellar  or  Fruit-room, — The 
decay  of  fruits  is  caused  either  by  bruises  or  by  a  fungus, 
or  species  of  mildew,  that  increases  rapidly  and  attacks 
all  the  sound  fruits  within  its  reach.  It  is,  therefore, 
necessary  to  examine  fruits  frequently,  and  remove  all 
that  show  any  symptoms  of  decay,  before  they  have 
either  affected  others  or  tainted  the  atmosphere  of  the 


474  DISEASES   AXD   INSECTSo 

CHAPTER    m. 

DISEASES    AND    INSECTS. 

Section  1. — Diseases. 

The  Fire-Blight  of  the  Pear^  Apple,  and  Quince. — 
Tliis  is  one  of  the  most  formidable  diseases  to  wliich  fruit- 
trees  are  liable.  Whether  it  is  caused  by  the  sun,  the 
atmosphere,  or  an  insect,  remains  in  doubt,  some  cases 
favoring  one  opinion,  some  another.  It  attacks  the  trees 
at  different  periods  of  the  growing  season,  from  June  to 
September,  and  generally  in  the  young  parts  first ;  the 
leaves  flag,  the  sap  becomes  thick  and  brown,  oozing  out 
in  globules  through  the  bark,  and  emitting  a  very  dis- 
agreeable odor,  and  the  diseased  branch  or  part  turns 
black,  as  if  it  were  burned  by  fire.  When  the  pear-tree 
is  attacked  it  is  diflicult  to  save  it,  tlic  disease  spreads  so 
rapidly.  In  the  apjde  and  quince  it  is  less  fatal,  rarely 
killing  more  than  a  portion  of  the  tree  even  if  left  to  its 
own  course.  The  only  remedy  is,  to  cut  away  instantly 
the  blighted  parts,  into  the  sound  wood,  where  there  is 
not  the  slightest  trace  of  the  disease,  and  burn  them  up 
immediately. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  young  trees  growing  very 
rapidly  are  more  subject  to  it  than  older  trees  growing 
slowly  ;  and  that  warm  sunshine,  with  a  sultry  atmosphere 
after  rain,  is  apt  to  be  followed  by  much  blight.  We  have 
always  regarded  the  cases  favoring  such  an  opinion  as 
accidental. 

Tioig  Blight, — This  attacks  the  young  shoots  of  the 
current  season's  growth  on  apple,  pear,  quince,  mountain 
ash,  etc.,  causing  them  to  suddenly   wither  and   become 


DISEASES.  4^5 

brown  at  early  or  micl-summcr.  Tlic  cause  is  unknown 
and  tlie  injury  is  not  materially  great.  The  remedy  is  in 
cutting  away  at  the  first  ai)})earance.  It  is  much  more 
abundant  in  some  years  than  in  others. 

Apple  IMhfht. — This  is  a  disease  of  serious  character, 
inasmucli  as  it  invades  and  destroys  many  orchards.  Like 
the  dreaded  fire-blight  of  the  pear,  there  seems  no  pre- 
ventive. It  attacks  a  whole  branch  or  limb,  and  some- 
times one  quarter  to  one  half  of  the  top  is  destroyed,  ere 
to  the  common  observer  it  is  apparent.  No  remedy  is 
known  except  to  cut  away  and  destroy  the  memento  of 
one's  losses. 

Bitter  Mot. — This  disease,  by  some  attributed  to  want 
of  ajipropriate  nourishment  to  the  troe,  and  by  others  to  a 
fungous  growth,  is  as  yet  but  little  understood.  High 
culture,  the  application  of  lime  to  the  soil,  etc.,  are 
recommended  as  remedies. 

Hust,  or  JFangus,  Mildew,  and  Crackinr/.—Thia  disease  is 
more  general  in  the  pear  than  the  apple,  and  it  is  more 
apparent  and  destructive  on  some  varieties  than  upon 
others ;  yet  these  varieties  have  not  been  so  closely  ob- 
served and  noted  as  to  make  it  safe  to  enumerate  them. 
►Suffice  it  that  varieties  longest  in  cultivation,  most  pro- 
ductive, and  in  confined  situations,  are  most  liable  to  it. 
It  appears  to  be  a  fungous  growth,  presenting,  when 
viewed  by  the  microscope,  a  mossy,  spongy  character, 
occupying  the  skin,  so  as  to  prevent  the  develo|)ment  of 
its  tissues,  and  residts  in  checking  the  growth  at  that  })oint, 
thus  creating  a  deformity.  When  the  malady  spreads, 
as  it  sometimes  does,  over  a  half  or  more  of  the  fruit,  it 
tends  to  a  deeper  nature,  and  causes  the  fruit  to  crack 
open,  and  become  corky  and  worthless. 


476  DISEASES   AND  IKSECTS. 

Pear-leaf  Blight. — This  disease  has  already  been  a!= 
luded  to  in  treating  of  pear  seedlings.  It  is  a  sort  of 
rust  that  appears  on  the  leave.^  in  July  or  August,  first  as 
small  brown  spots  ;  these  spread  rapidly  over  the  leaves 
until  they  are  completely  dried  up  and  growth  stopped. 
It  appears  in  a  certain  spot  as  a  center,  from  which  it 
spreads.  Whether  it  be  an  insect,  a  fungus,  or  some  at- 
mospherical cause  that  produces  this  blight,  is  unknown. 
Certain  cases  favor  one  or  other  of  these  opinions.  More 
minute  investigations  are  wanted  on  the  subject. 

To  avoid  its  evil  effects  as  far  as  possible,  the  great 
point  is,  to  get  a  rapid,  vigorous  growth,  before  mid-sum- 
mer, when  it  usually  appears.  Seedlings  grown  in  new 
soils  do  not  appear  to  be  so  much  affected  as  in  old. 
Where  stocks  are  affected  very  early  in  the  season,  they 
become  almost  worthless,  on  account  of  the  feebleness 
produced  in  both  stem  and  roots  by  such  an  untimely  and 
unnatural  check.  Some  special  applications,  such  as  coal 
cinders,  iron  filings,  copperas,  etc.,  have  been  suggested, 
but  no  evidence  has  yet  been  produced  of  their  efficacy. 

The  Gutn  in  Stone  Fruits. — The  cherry,  plum,  apricot, 
and  peach  are  all  more  or  less  subject  to  this  malady. 
The  cherry  is  particularly  liable  to  it  in  the  West.  It  is 
produced  by  different  causes,  such  as  a  wet  soil,  severe 
pruning,  pruning  at  an  improper  time,  violent  changes  of 
temperature,  etc.  The  gumming  of  the  Cherry  in  the 
West  is  considei-ed  by  some  to  be  owing  in  a  great  mea- 
sure to  the  bark  not  yielding  naturally  to  the  growth  of 
the  wood,  and  hence  they  practise  longitudinal  incisions 
on  it.  The  cherry-tree  has  a  very  powerful  baj-k,  and  in 
some  cases  it  may  not  yield  naturally  to  the  expansion  or 
growth  of  the  wood.  We  have  seen  about  a  foot  cf  the 
trunk  of  a  cherry-tree  several  inches  smaller  than  the 
parts  both  above  and  below  it.  The  bark  was  as  smooth 
as  glass  on  it,  the  first  rind  being  unbroken,  whilst  on  the 
large  parts  this  was  quite  rough.     This  was  a  case  arising 


DISEASES.  477 

from  the  obstinacy  of  tlie  bark,  and  could  only  bvi 
remedied  by  longitudinal  incisions  on  the  small  ])art. 

It  is  most  probable  that  the  extent  and  severity  of  this 
disease  in  the  West  is  owing  to  violent  changes  from  a 
liard  frost  to  a  bright  sun  and  rapid  thaw,  by  which  the 
sap  becomes  derangc<l,  and  accumulates  in  masses.  Trees 
that  are  branched  near  the  ground  will  be  less  likely  to 
suffer  than  those  with  tall,  bare  trunks.  Where  it  has 
made  some  progress  in  any  tree,  pare  off  the  diseased 
bark,  clean  off  all  the  gum,  and  let  the  surface  dry  up ; 
then  apply  a  plaster  of  grafting  composition,  or  a  solution 
of  gum  shellac  in  alcohol,  jiut  on  with  a  brush. 

When  the  stone  fruits  are  pruned  severely  in  the  spring, 
the  sap  does  not  find  sufficient  vent ;  it  accumulates  in 
masses  and  bursts  the  bark.  This  f:ict  should  always  be 
kejjt  in  view  in  pruning,  and  a  sufficient  supply  of  active 
buds  be  left  to  absorb  the  sap., 

'The  Yelhncs  in  the  Pearh. — This  is  supposed  to  arise 
from  negligent  cultivation.  It  exhibits  itself  in  a  yellow, 
sickly  foliage,  feeble  shoots,  and  small  fruits  prematurely 
ripened.  It  is  said  to  be  contagious.  Trees  exhibiting 
these  symptoms  should  instantly  be  destroyed.  To  avoid 
it,  propagate  only  from  trees  in  perfect  health  and  vigor. 

Mildew  on  the  Peach. — The  young  shoots,  leaves,  and 
even  the  fruit  of  certain  varieties,  and  especially  the 
varieties  Avhicli  are  without  glands  on  their  leaves,  are 
attacked  by  this.  The  only  remedies  are,  to  give  the 
trees  a  dry,  good  soil,  that  will  keep  them  in  a  vigorous 
condition,  and  to  syringe  freely  twice  a  day  when  it 
begins  to  appear.  The  gooseberry  suffers  seriously  from 
the  mildew,  owing  mainly  to  the  heat  of  our  summers.  In 
Northern  New  York,  in  Maine,  Vermont,  and  Lower 
Canada,  the  finest  large  Englisli  varieties  are  brought  to 
greater  perfection  than  in  warmer  distric^ts,  and  with  good 
culture  almost  come  up  to  the  English  standard.  In  a 
cold,  damp-bottomed  soil  at  Toronto^  almost  on  a  level 


478  DISEASES   AXD   INSECTS. 

■with  Lake  Ontario,  fine  crops  are  produced  with  compara- 
tively little  difficulty  from  inildew  or  rust.  This  would 
indicate  as  a  remedy,  a  cool  soil  and  situation,  and  mulch- 
ing the  roots  to  keep  them  cool.  The  trees  should  be 
renewed  every  three  or  four  years,  and  they  should  be  kept 
vigorous  by  liberal  manuring  and  good  culture. 

Hot  and  Mildeio  of  the  Grape. — Both  the  rot  and  mil- 
dew on  the  grape  have  been  attributed  to  various  causes, 
none  of  which  seems  to  prove  reliable.  Both  diseases 
seem  to  come  and  go  with  seasons,  now  liere  and  there 
excessive  upon  one  variety  one  season,  and  another  the 
next,  evidently  to  us  bearing  the  impress  that  it  is 
miasmatic  or  sporadic,  and  developed  according  to  the 
atmospherf^  and  Condition  of  the  vine  as  regards  health 
and  vigor.  The  preventive  seems  to  be  in  the  free  use 
of  sulphur,  by  dusting  the  vines  and  keeping  the  influence 
of  the  sulphur  thereon,  from  the  time  the  seed  is 
formed    unt^l    the    coloring   is    at   least   half-completed. 

The  Plum-tree  Wart  or  Black-Knot. — The  cause  of  this 
disease  is  still  a  matter  of  doubt  and  uncertainty.  Some 
hold  to  tlie  opinion  that  it  is  a  gall  produced  by  an  insect, 
others  that  it  is  of  fungous  origin.  The  latter  opinion  is 
entitled  to  the  greatest  weight.  We  do  not  believe  that 
insects  have  any  agency  whatever  in  producing  this  dis. 
ease.      Cions  should  never  be  taken  from  a  diseased  tree. 

Cutting  out  the  diseased  branch  clean  to  the  sound 
wood,  the  moment  the  knots  begin  to  appear,  is  an 
effectual  remedy,  and  they  should  all  be  burnt  up.  We 
have  saved  trees  six  inches  in  diameter,  that  were  af- 
fected on  the  trunk  so  seriously,  that  one  third  of  its 
thickness  had  to  be  removed  to  get  below  the  disease. 
After  it  -Was  cut  out,  we  applied  a  plaster  of  grafting 
composition,  covered  it  with  a  cloth,  and  in  two  years 
it  was  all  Sealed  over  and  sound. 

Plum-tr^^s  are  so  neglected  in  the  country,  that  mul- 
titudes. -^  *hem  are  now  standing  literally  loaded  with 


INSECTS.  479 

these  warts — not  even  an  inch  of  any  branch  free  from 
them,  the  most  disgustmg  objects  in  the  way  of  fiuit 
trees  that  can  possibly  be  imagined. 

The  Curl  of  the  Leaf  la  the  Pe^^cA.— This  disease  causes 
the  leaves  to  assume  a  reddiph  color,  to  become  thick, 
curled,  and  deformed,  and  finally  to  perish.  It  is  supposed 
by  many  to  be  caused  by  insects;  but  it  is  really  induced 
by  a  sudden  change  of  weather.  In  proof  of  this  we  may 
adduce  the  fact  that  peach-trees  under  glass  are  never 
affected  with  this  disease;  and  the  more  sheltered  the 
position  is,  the  less  is  the  injury. 

A  number  of  warm  days,  that  cause  the  expansion  of 
the  young  leaves,  followed  by  a  cold  rainy  day,  is  almost 
sure  to  produce  it  to  some  extent;  and  the  more  severe 
and  protracted  the  cold,  the  more  extensive  and  fatal  it  is. 
The  peacli-trees  in  Western  New  York  suffered  more  from 
this  in  1849-50  than  in  the  ten  years  previous,  owing  to  a 
protracted  cold  time  in  each  season  after  the  young  tender 
leaves  had  expanded.  In  both  these  seasons  the  check  was 
so  severe,  as  not  only  to  produce  this  disease  in  its  worst 
form,  but  the  gum  also  ;  for  the  sap  not  being  absorbed 
by  the  leaves,  became  stagnant,  sour,  and  corroded,  and 
burst  the  bark.  Trees  in  sheltered  gardens  suffer  less  than 
those  in  exposed  orchards.  There  is  no  possible  way  of 
guarding  against  this  ;  and  the  only  remedy  known  to  us 
is,  to  pick  off  the  diseased  leaves  the  moment  the  weather 
changes,  that  new  healthy  ones  may  be  produced. 

Section  2. — ^Thb  Principal  Insects  injurious  to 
Fruit   Trees. 

Aphis  or  Plarit-LoKse. — There  are  several  kinds  of 
these.  The  two  most  troublesome  to  fruit  trees  are  the 
green  and  black,  small  soft  insects  that  appear  suddenly 
in  immense  quantities  on  the  young  slioots  of  the  trees, 
suck  their  juices,  and  couse<juently  arrest  their  growth, 


480  DISEASES   AND   Ii< SECTS. 

The  apple,  pear,  and  cherry  are  especially  infested  with 
them.  They  multiply  with  wonderful  rapidity.  It  is  said 
that  one  individual  in  five  generations  might  be  the  pro- 
genitor of  six  thousand  millions.  "Were  it  not  that  they 
are  easily  destroyed,  they  would  present  an  obstacle  almost 
insuperable  in  the  propagation  and  culture  of  trees. 

There  are  many  ways  of  accomplishing  their  destruc-i 
tion.  Our  plan  is  to  prepare  a  barrel  of  tobacco  juice, 
by  steeping  stems  for  several  days  until  the  juice  is  a 
dark  brown,  like  strong  beer ;  we  then  mix  this  with  a 
solution  of  soft-soap,  or  soapsuds.  A  pail  is  filled  with 
this,  and  the  ends  of  the  shoots  where  the  insects  are 
assembled  are  brought  down  and  dipped  into  the  liquid. 
One  dip  is  enough.  Such  parts  as  cannot  be  dipped  are 
sprinkled  liberally.  It  is  applied  to  the  heads  of  large 
trees  by  means  of  a  hand  or  garden  syringe.  It  should 
be  done  in  the  evening.  The  liquid  may  be  so  strong  as 
to  injure  the  foliage,  hence  it  will  be  well  for  persons 
using  it  the  first  time  to  test  it  on  one  or  two  subjects 
before  applying  it  extensively.  This  application  must  be 
repeated  as  often  as  any  of  the  aphides  make  their  appear- 
ance. The  dry  weather  of  mid-summer  is  generally  the 
time  most  favorable  for  their  appearance.  The  season  of 
1883  has  been  remarkable  for  the  prevalence  of  this  pest 
all  over  the  country,  not  merely  on  fruit  but  on  forest 
trees. 

The  Woolly  Aphis  or  American  Bligfit. — This  is  a 
small  insect,  covered  with  a  white  woolly  substance  that 
conceals  its  body.  They  infest  the  apple-tree  in  particu- 
lar, both  roots  and  branches,  living  upon  the  sap  of  the 
bark,  and  producing  small  warts  or  granulations  on  it  by 
the  punctures.  They  are  more  particularly  troublesome 
on  old  rough-barked  trees,  as  they  lodge  in  the  crevices, 
and  are  difficult  to  reach.  The  wind  carries  them  from 
one  place  to  another  by  the  light  down  in  which  they  are 
enveloped,  and  thus  they  spread  quickly  from  one  end  of 


INSECTS,  "  481 

a  plantation  to  the  other.  Not  a  moment  should  bo  lost 
in  destroying  the  first  one  that  makes  its  appearance. 
Where  the  hark  is  rough  it  should  be  scraped  smooth  ;  if 
the  roots  be  affected  the  earth  should  be  removed,  and 
every  part  washed,  and  every  crevice  filled  with  the  fol- 
lowing pieparation,  recommended  in  Harris's  Treatise : 
"  Two  parts  of  soft-soap  and  eight  of  water,  mixed  with 
lime  enough  to  bring  it  to  the  consistency  of  thick  white- 
wash, to  be  put  on  with  a  brush."  A  solution  of  two 
pounds  of  potash  in  seven  quarts  of  water  will  answer 
as  well.     Fresh  earth  should  be  put  upon  the  roots. 

The  Oyster  Shell  Barh- Louse. — This  is  a  dark-brown 
scale  insect,  that  infests  the  bark  of  the  apple-tree. 
The  scales  are  of  a  dark-brown  color,  like  the  bark,  and 
are  not  easily  seen  unless  looked  for.  They  attach  them- 
selves closely  to  the  bai'k,  and  sometimes  are  so  numerous 
as  to  form  a  complete  coating.  They  seldom  appear  on 
thrifty-growing  trees  in  good  soil ;  but  where  the  soil  is 
damp  and  cold,  and  the  trees  growing  feebly,  this  insect 
may  be  looked  for.  June  is  the  time  to  destroy  them, 
when  they  are  young.  At  other  times  they  are  hard,  and 
able  to  resist  any  ordinary  remedy.  The  same  application 
recommended  for  the  aphis,  applied  to  them  with  a  hard 
brush,  will  effect  their  destruction.  Where  they  have 
been  left  for  a  long  time  undisturbed,  and  have  pretty 
well  covered  the  tree,  the  quickest  and  best  remedy  is  to 
destroy  tree  and  all,  unless  it  possesses  some  extraordinary 
claim  for  indulgence.  There  are  many  other  species  of 
bark  lice  or  scale  insects.  Nearly  every  kind  of  tree  or 
shrub  may  be  infested  by  them. 

The  Apple-tree  Borer  is  a  very  troublesome  insect  in' 
some  sections  of  the  country.  In  Western  New  York 
we  have  never  met  with  it  but  in  two  or  three  instances, 
in  very  old,  neglected  orchards,  that  had  stood  for  twenty 
years  in  grass.  The  beetle  is  striped  brown  and  white, 
and  is  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long.     It  deposits  its 


483  DISEASES   AND   INSECTS. 

eggs  in  June,  in  the  bark  of  the  trees  near  the  ground. 
Here  the  larva  is  hatched,  becoming  a  whitish  grub, 
which  saws  its  way  into  the  tree,  perforating  it  in  all 
directions,  sometimes  completely  girdling  it.  The  most 
eifectual  method  to  destroy  them  is,  to  insert  the  end  of  a 
wire  into  their  burrow,  and  killing  them.  The  same 
means  are  taken  to  guard  against  them  as  against  the 
l)each-tree  grub,  viz.,  placing  a  mound  of  ashes  around 
the  b:ise  of  the  trunk  in  the  spring,  and  allowing  it  to 
remahi  until  after  the  season  in  which  the  beetles  deposit 
their  eggs.  It  prevents  tliem  from  reaching  the  soft  bark 
at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  the  place  usually  selected. 
It  is  stated  in  Downing's  Fruit  and  Fruit  Trees,  that  "  the 
beetles  may  be  destroyed  in  .June  by  building  small  fires 
of  shavings  in  different  parts  of  the  orchard." 

The  Apple -Worm — Codling-Moth. — The  ravages  of 
this  insect  on  the  apple  are  becoming  quite  alarming,  and 
unless  its  destruction  be  pursued  with  piompt  and  perse- 
vering efforts,  our  apple-orchards  will  soon  cease  to  be 
profitable.  The  moth  appears  in  New  England,  New 
York,  and  other  jjlaces  similar  in  climate,  about  the  mid- 
dle of  June  ;  farther  south  earlier.  It  deposits  its  eggs 
in  the  eye  or  calyx  of  the  young  apple;  in  a  few  day$ 
they  hatch,  and  the  Avorm  burrows  into  the  core  of  the 
fruit.  It  can  be  traced  by  the  brownish  powder  which  it 
casts  out  behind  it.  In  some  three  weeks  it  attains  its 
full  size,  and  escapes  from  the  apple  through  a  hole  which 
it  makes  in  the  side,  and  takes  shelter  in  the  scales  of  the 
bark  of  the  tree  or  such  other  suitable  place  as  it  can  find. 
The  insects  complete  their  transformations  in  two  or 
three  weeks,  and  produce  a  second  brood  of  moths, 
which  lay  their  eggs,  and  again  stock  the  apples  with 
worms.  The  fall  brood  of  worms  remain  in  their  co- 
coons during  the  winter,  and  appear  as  moths  in  spring. 

Means  of  Destruction. — 1st.  Scrape  and  clean  the  bark 
of  the  trees  thoroughly  early  in  spring,  and  see  that  no 


ns-SECT.^?.  483 

cocoons  are  loft  in  the  crevices.  2d.  Examine  all  liarrels, 
bins,  shelves,  etc.,  where  apples  have  been  stored  in  cel- 
lars or  fruit-room.  3d.  Place  bandages  of  old  cloth,  car- 
pet, or  rags  of  any  kind  around  the  trunks  and  largo 
branches  of  every  tree,  say  by  1st  of  July,  to  trap  the 
worms;  examine  every  week  or  two,  and  kill  all  worms 
that  have  been  trapped.  4th.  Pick  or  knock  off  every 
wormy  fruit  before  the  worm  escapes,  and  destroy;  })ick 
up  all  that  drop,  and  destroy  in  the  same  way.  Recently 
Paris  Green  h:is  been  used  against  the  apple  worm  with 
great  success.  The  poison  is-  mixed  with  water  and 
sprayed  upon  the  trees  soon  after  the  fruit  sets.  Tho 
calyx  eml  of  the  fruit  then  points  upward,  and  the  poison 
will  lodge  in  the  blossom  end  of  the  apple.  The  young 
worms  are  poisoned  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  eat  into  the 
fruit  Tlie  summer  rains  wash  the  Paris  Green  from 
the  trees,  so  that  even  a  chemical  analysis  will  fail  to 
show  its  presence  in  the  autumn.  It  is  said  that  a  small 
amount  of  Paris  Green,  a  tablespoonful  to  the  barrel  of 
water  is  sufficient.  The  best  way  to  spray  large  trees  is 
to  place  a  barrel  or  cask  containing  the  liquid  on  a  plat- 
foim  wagon,  which  can  be  drawn  through  the  orchard 
by  horses.  The  fluid  may  be  thrown  upon  the  trees  by 
any  one  of  the  several  force  pumps  sold  for  that  purpose. 

The  Canlcer-  Worm. — Tiie  moths  generally  emerge  from 
the  ground  in  March,  though  some  rise  during  the  late 
autumn  and  winter  months.  The  female  has  no  wings, 
but  crawls  u])  the  tree,  and  lays  her  eggs  on  the  branches 
in  May,  in  clusters  of  60  to  100  in  each;  the  little  worms 
fall  upon  the  leaves,  and,  when  numerous,  devour  them 
all,  leaving  only  the  mid-ribs.  They  leave  the  trees  when 
about  four  wrecks  old,  and  enter  the  ground.  Their  effects 
are  most  visible  in  June,  when  the  trees,  divested  of  their 
foliage,  appear  as  if  scorched  by  fire. 

As  the  female  cannot  fly,  the  great  point  is  to  prevent 
her  from  crawling  up;  for  this  purpose  various  means  liave 


484  DISEASES   AXD    INSECTS. 

been  tried.  One  of  the  most  effectual  u  to  tie  or  tack  strips 
of  canvas  or  stiif  brown  ])aper  around  the  tree  and  cover 
them  with  tar,  renewing  the  tar  during  their  whole  season 
of  rising,  or  from  October  until  May.  Another  is,  to  make 
a  close-fitting  collar  of  boards  around  the  base  of  the  tree, 
and  keep  the  boards  covered  with  tar. 

The  Tent  Caterpillar  is  an  insect  that  commits  very 
genera]  and  extensive  devastation  in  our  orchards,  and 
especially  in  certain  seasons.  The  moth  deposits  its  eggs 
in  July,  in  larga  rmgs,  on  the  branches  of  the  trees; 
these  remain  in  that  state  until  the  following  season, 
when  they  are  hatched  in  the  latter  end  of  May  or  be- 
ginning of  June.  Each  ring  produces  three  or  four 
hundred  caterpillars,  and  these  weave  a  sort  of  web  to 
live  in.  There  are  two  ways  of  destroying  them:  one  is, 
to  examine  the  trees  carefully  in  February  or  March,  at 
pruning  time,  and  destroy  the  clusters  of  eggs  by  cutting 
off  and  burning  the  branches  on  Avhich  they  are  found. 
The  next  is  to  destroy  the  caterpillars  in  their  tents  after 
they  are  hatched.  The  quickest  and  most  effectual  method 
is  to  remove  every  nest  with  the  hands.  The  early  morn- 
ing should  be  chosen,  when  the  worms  are  in  the  nests. 
Some  burn  the  webs  with  a  torch  made  by  tying  rags 
to  the  end  of  a  long  pole,  and  wetting  the  rags  with 
kerosene. 

77^6'  Cherry  and  Pear  Slug. — This  is  a  most  destruc- 
tive insect.  The  first  brood  appears  in  June  and  July, 
and  a  second  brood  afterward,  as  small,  slimy,  dark-brown 
slugs  on  the  upper  surfaces  of  the  leaves  of  the  cherry 
and  pear.  They  devour  greedily  the  parenchyma  of  the 
leaves,  leaving  only  the  bare  network  of  veins.  In  a 
short  time  growth  is  completely  stopped. 

Stocks  for  budding  require  careful  watching,  for  a  day 
or  two  of  these  slugs  may  prevent  them  from  bemg  worked 


INSECTS.  485 

that  season,  "We  destroy  them  by  throwing  fine  eartli 
taken  up  with  tlie  hand  among  the  trees,  and  by  ashes  or 
slaked  lime,  when  the  earth  is  not  sufficiently  dry  and 
fine.  The  caustic  properties  of  lime  and  ashes  render 
them  more  certainly  destructive  to  the  slug,  and  they 
should  always  be  used  in  preference  to  common  earth, 
■where  only  a  few  trees  are  to  be  gone  over. 

A  hberal  syringing  with  the  tobacco  and  soap  li<inid 
recommended  for  the  aphis,  but  in  a  weaker  state,  is  ser- 
viceable after  the  ashes  and  lime.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  one  application  will  seldgm  be  sufficient.  Some 
escape  even  to  the  third  or  fourth ;  but  in  all  cases  the 
■warfare  should  be  sustained  whilst  one  remains.  They 
are  generally  most  troixblesome  in  warm  and  dry  seasons, 

Tlie  Currant-  TForm.— This  is  a  small,  light,  yellow  worm 
that  eats  the  leaves  of  currants  and  gooseberries  in  June. 
The  remedy  is  to  dust  the  leaves  with  powdered  white 
hellebore,  as  soon  as  it  first  appears,  and  repeat  daily  till 
the  worm  disappears.  We  have  also  used  dry  fresh- 
slaked  lime  successfully. 

The  Curcxdio  or  Plum -Weevil. — This  is  a  small  grayish, 
brown  beetle,  nearly  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long;  the  wing- 
covers  form  two  little  humps  on  the  back,  which  give  it 
a  roundish  appearance,  and  it  has  a  long  crooked  snout, 
well  adapted  to  its  destructive  propensities.  They  can 
fly,  but  are  not  active;  and  by  jarring  the  part  on  which 
they  stand,  suddenly,  they  fall  to  the  ground,  draw  in 
their  legs,  and  appear  dead.  It  deposits  its  egg  in  a 
semicircular  incision  which  it  makes  in  the  young  fruit ; 
it  there  hatches,  eats  into  the  fruit,  and  causes  it  to  fall 
while  yet  green.  In  some  places  it  destroys  the  entire 
crop  of  plums,  apricots,  and  nectarines,  and  attacks  even 
the  clierry  and  the  apple.  The  peach,  even,  is  not  wholly 
exempt,  notwithstanding  its  coat  of  down.  Almost  every 
remedy  that  ingenuity  can  devise  has  been  trieil.  This 
whole  book  would  not  contain  what  has  been    written 


480  DISEASES   AKD   INSECTS. 

on  tl.e  subject  in  one  year  alone.  Yet  no  complete,  eifec 
tual  remedy  has  been  discovered.  The  strongest  liquid 
applications  of  lime,  soaj),  and  tobacco,  the  most  power- 
ful and  offensive  odors  that  repel  any  other  insects,  are 
entirely  harmless  and  inoffensive  to  the  curculio.  There 
seem  to  be  really  but  two  means  worthy  of  being  re- 
sorted to.  One  is,  to  pave,  or  in  some  other  way  harden, 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  so  that  the  grubs  cannot 
enter  it  to  complete  their  transformations.  This  is  found 
efficient  where  no  other  trees  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
not  paved.  We  have  seen  many  instances  where  good 
crops  were  obtained  by  this  mode.  The  fact  that  they 
are,  as  a  general  thing,  less  troublesome  in  stiff  clay 
soils  than  in  liglit  porous  ones,  is  alone  a  proof  of  the 
efficacy  of  a  stiff  or  impenetrable  surface  soil. 

Add  to  this  the  picking  up  of  fruit  containing  the  grub 
as  soon  as  it  drop-;  from  the  tree,  and  before  the  worm 
has  a  chance  to  escape. 

To  accomplish  both  these  ends,  some  people  have 
planted  their  plums  and  apricots  in  a  small  inclosure  by 
themselves,  adjoining  the  hog-pen,  and  as  soon  as  the 
fruits  begin  to  drop  these  animals  are  admitted,  and 
gather  all  up,  and  at  the  same  time  tread  the  ground 
so  firmly  that  it  is  almost  as  good  as  if  it  were  paved. 

This  is  probably  the  easiest  and  best  way  to  insure  a 
crop  of  the  fruits  attacked  by  this  insect. 

Anotlier  way  is,  to  jar  the  tree  daily,  from  the  moment 
they  begin  to  appear,  which  is  when  the  fruit  is  the  size 
of  a  pea,  until  they  have  disappeared,  or  the  fruit  begins 
to  ripen,  when  it  is  no  hmger  attacked.  This  is  our  own 
method,  and  is  successful.  The  insects  are  easier  jar»-ed 
off  in  the  cool  of  the  morning,  while  they  are  torpid. 

Before  commencing  to  jar  them  down,  a  white  sheet  or 
clot"h,  wide  enough  to  cover  all  the  ground  under  the 
branches,  should  be  spread  to  receive  the  insects  as  they 
fall,  so  thai  they  may  be  destroyed.     This  was  recom- 


INSECTS.  i^l 

mended  through  the  "  Geneaee  Farmer,"  by  David  Thomas, 
forty  years  ago.  At  the  West  a  machine  or  hand  butting 
barrow  has  been  introduced  for  jarring  and  eatcliing  the 
curculio  in  large  orchards,  but  it  is  said  to  injure  the  trees 
by  the  severe   blows  consequently  necessary  with  its  use. 

From  repeated  observations,  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
that  it  is  quite  sensitive  to  cold,  for  it  is  well  known  that 
in  the  cool  of  the  morning  it  is  always  in  a  comparative 
state  of  torpor  ;  and  in  the  cold  seasons  of  1849-50,  when 
our  peach  trees  and  fruit  were  so  greatly  injured,  the  cur- 
culio was  driven  off,  and  we  had  a  most  abundaBt  crop 
of  plums.  A  cold  day  or  two  may  not  affect  it ;  but 
when  it  continues  for  two  weeks,  as  in  the  years  referred 
to,  it  seems  to  be  rendered  powerless  for  tliat  season. 

Ants. — These  are  not  very  destructive,  yet  they  some- 
times do  considerable  injury  to  beds  of  seedlings,  by 
making  their  hillocks  among  them,  and  they  also  infest 
ripe  fruits. 

Boiling  water,  oil,  or  sjiirits  of  turpentine,  jioured  on 
their  hillocks,  disperses  tliem  ;  and  if  wide-mouthed  bot- 
tles, half-filled  with  sweetened  water  or  syrup,  be  hung 
among  the  branches  of  a  tree  when  the  fruit  is  attaining 
maturity,  ants,  wasps,  flies,  and  beetles  of  all  sorts  that 
prey  greedily  upon  sweets,  will  be  attracted  into  them. 

Mr.  Downing,  who  recommends  this  as  a  "general  ex- 
tirpator suited  to  all  situations,"  says  that  "  an  acquaint- 
ance caught  in  this  way,  in  one  season,  more  than  three 
bushels  of  insects  of  various  kinds,  and  preserved  his 
garden  almost  entirely  against  them." 

A  gentleman  in  Detroit,  who  Avas  very  careful  of  his 
garden,  informed  me  that  he  liad  pursued  tliis  method 
of  trapping  insects  with  results  that  perfectly  astonished 
Wm.  He  had  to  empty  the  bottles  every  few  days  to 
A\sike  room  for  more.  A  very  good  way  of  trajjping  and 
killing  ants  is,  to  besmear  the  inside  of  flower-pots  with 
molasseSj  and  turn  them  on  their  mouths  near  the  hillock; 


488  DISEASES  AHD  1KSECT3. 

the  insects  will  soon  assemble  inside  on  the  fliolasses, 
when  they  are  easily  destroyed  by  a  handful  of  burning 
straw. 

The  Peach -Tree  Sorer. — This  is  a  most  destructive 
insect  when  allowed  to  increase  for  a  few  years  without 
molestation.  We  have  seen  whole  orchards  of  fine  trees 
ruined  by  them.  They  sometimes  attack  even  young 
trees  in  the  nursery,  and  commit  serious  depredations  on 
their  collar,  rendering  them  in  many  cases  quite  unfit  for 
planting.  Their  multiplication  should  be  prevented  by 
all  possible  means.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in  summer 
on  the  base  of  the  trunk,  near  the  collar,  where  the  bark 
is  soft.  There  they  are  hatched,  and  bore  their  way 
under  the  bark  of  the  tree,  either  in  the  stem  or  root,  or 
both,  producing  an  effusion  of  gum.  Where  trees  are 
already  affected,  the  proper  course  is,  to  remove  the  earth 
from  around  the  collar  of  the  root,  clean  away  the  giim, 
destroy  any  cocoons  that  may  be  found,  trace  the  grub 
through  its  holes  in  the  tree,  and  kill  it;  then  fill  up 
around  the  tree  with  fresh  earth,  and  place  a  shovelful  or 
two  of  ashes  around  the  base.  One  of  the  best  orchards 
in  the  vicinity  of  Rochester  was  at  one  time  nearly  ruined 
by  the  prevalence  of  this  grub,  when  it  changed  pro- 
prietors, and  the  present  one  adopted  and  followed  the 
plan  recommended  above,  until  there  is  not  the  trace  of 
one  left.  The  ashes  or  slaked  lime  should  be  applied 
every  spring,  and  at  the  end  of  summer  may  be  scattered 
about  the  tree ;  both  ashes  and  lime  form  an  excellent 
dressing  for  the  peach. 

The  Rose-Bug. — The  eggs  of  this  insect  are  laid  in 
the  earth,  where  they  are  hatched,  and  from  which  the 
bug  emerges  about  the  rose  season. 

In  some  seasons  and  in  some  localities  they  appear  like 
grasshoppers  in  vast  multitudes,  and  commit  extensive 
ravages,  not  only  on  the  rose  but  fruit  trees  and  all  other 
green  things.     Syringing  the  plants  with  diluted  whale- 


ANIMALS  INJURIOUS  TO   FRUIT  TREES.  480 

oil  soap  is  the  only  remedy  aside  from  hand-picking,  which 
is  most  effectual.  One  gallon  of  whale-oil  soap  to  three 
gallons  of  water  syringed  over  them,  when  on  the  tree, 
effectually  desti-oys  them.  In  some  cases  fruit  trees  have 
been  protected   by  covering  them  with  millinet. 

Let  if- Rollers. — In  May  and  June  these  insects  may  be 
'found  on  the  leaves  of  fruit  trees,  and  especially  on  the 
pear;  they  form  for  themselves  a  sort  of  cocoon  out  of  tlie 
leaf  The  leaves  attacked  by  them  should  be  removed  and 
destroyed,  in  order  to  prevent  their  increase.  The  leaf- 
rollers  are  small  caterpillars,  which  develop  into  little 
moths  or  ^'millers." 

Section  3. — Animals  Injurious   to  Fruits  and 
Fruit  Trees. 

Sirds. — As  a  general  thing,  birds  ai"e  more  the  friends 
than  the  enemies  of  the  garden.  Many  of  them  subsist 
in  greater  part  on  insects,  and  thus  perform  services 
that  are  by  no  means  appreciated.  The  early  cherries 
and  grapes  are  generally  the  greatest  sufferers  by  them, 
and  various  devices  are  practised  to  frighten  them  away, 
the  most  cruel  of  which  is  shooting,  whicli  must,  however, 
in  some  cases  be  resoited  to.  Moving  objects  resembling 
the  human  figure,  bits  of  looking-glass  or  tin  suspended 
among  the  branches,  etc.,  are  often  effectual.  Dwarf 
trees  are  easily  covered  with  thin  netting  supported  on 
poles  and  fastened  at  the  base  of  the  tree. 

Field  Mice. — The  most  effectual  preventive  is  clean 
culture.  Leave  no  grass,  weeds,  rubbish,  or  lieaps  of 
stones  around  the  garden  or  orchard,  and  the  mice  will 
seldom  be  troublesome.  Their  operations  of  girdling 
are  principally  carried  on  beneath  the  snow,  and  when 
this  is  firmly  trodden  down  as  soon  as  it  falls,  it  ob- 
structs their  way.  A  correspondent  of  the  "Horticul- 
turist" states  that  he  has  found  tin  tubes  fixed  around 
the   base    of  the  tree,    an    effectual   remedy ;    and   Mi» 


490  DISEASES  AND   INSECTS. 

Hooker,  of  Rochester/ has  successfully  tlriven  them  off 
with  poison.  He  takes  a  block  of  wood  six  inches  long 
and  three  or  four  square,  and  bores  it  lengthwise  with 
an  inch-and-a-half  auger  nearly  thi-ough,  and  pLices  in 
the  lower  end  some  corn-meal  and  arsenic.  He  places 
these  blocks  among  the  trees,  mouth  inclined  down- 
wards, "to  keep  the  powder  dry." 

Great  destruction  of  orchards  was  committed  by  the 
mice  in  the  winter  of  1869-70,  and  since  then  various  con- 
trivances have  been  resorted  to.  One  is  to  incase  the  lower 
part  of  the  tree  in  a  thin,  flexible  wooden  covering.  Corn 
and  corn-meal  mixed  with  j^oison  and  scattered  around 
the  trees  has  also  been  employed,  with  more  or  less  success. 

Moles. — These  are  easily  poisoned  and  driven  oflf,  by 
piitting  pills  of  flour  mixed  with  arsenic  into  their  holes, 
and  shutting  them  up.  We  have  seen  them  banished 
by  bits  of  dried  codfish  placed  in  the  entrance  of  their  holes. 

Cats  often  commit  serious  depredations  on  trees  by 
scratching  the  bark.  Quite  recently  we  saw  a  large 
number  of  beautiful  fruit  trees  nearly  ruined  by  them. 
A  few  briers  secured  around  trees  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
house,  where  they  frequent  most,  will  be  a  suflicient 
protection. 

Hogs. — It  is  not  generally  supposed  that  these  ani- 
mals will  attack  trees ;  but  we  have  heard  of  a  Western 
farmer  who  turned  in  a  large  number  of  them  to  con- 
sume the  corn  that  had  been  grown  in  his  young 
orchard.  When  the  corn  began  to  grow  scarce  they  at- 
tacked the  trees,  and  not  one  out  of  several  hundred 
but  was  completely  girdled— the  bark  gnawed  off  as  far 
up  as  the  brutes  could  reach. 

Where  it  may  be  desirable  to  turn  hogs  into  an  or- 
chard, unless  the  feed  be  very  abundant,  the  trees  should  be 
protected  around  the  base  with  thorns,  briers,  or  some 
prickly  brush. 

^%.a6bits  may  be  deterred  from  causing  injury  by  I'ub* 
30* 


IMPLEMENTS   OF   THE   SOIL.  491 

biug  the  body  of  the  tree  whli  fr.'sh  blool  once  in  a  week 
©r  so  during  winter,  or  by  wrapping  theni  a  toot  or  two 
above  the  ground  with  tliick,  firm  paper. 


CHAPTER     IV. 


NURSBRY,  ORCHARD,  AND    FRUIT-GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 

The  following  are  the  principal  im])]enient8  used  in  the 
propagation,  pruning,  and  cultivation  of  fruit-trees  :* 

Section  1. — Implements  op  the  Soil. 

The  Subsoil  Ploto  (see  fig.   IGO)  is  the  great   reformer 
of  the  day  in  the  preparation  of  soils  of  all  qualities  and 


textures,  for  nursery,  orchai-d,  or  garden  trees.  It  follows 
the  ordinary  plow  in  the  same  furrow  ;  and  the  largest 
size,  No.  2,  with  a  poAverful  team,  can  loosen  the  subsoil 
to  the  dejith  of  eighteen  inches.  No.  1  will  be  sufficient 
in  clear  land  when  the  subsoil  is  not  very  stiff". 

The  One- Horse  P/oy^.— Similar  to  the  common  plow 
used  by  farmers.  It  is  a  labor-saving  implement  for  cul- 
tivating   the  ground    among    nursery-trees   or   orchards 


*  A  share  of  the  Piifrraviiifrs  used  in  tlic  illiistralion  of  this  chapliT  miv  from 
the  elaborate  Iinpleinent  Cauilogiiu  of  It  II.  Alien  &  Co.,  No.  ISO  and  191  Water 
etreet,  New  York  City. 


493       JfURSERY  AND   FRUIT   GARDEif  IMPLEMENTS. 

closely  planted.  The  horse  should  be  steady,  the  man 
careful,  and  the  whiffle-tree  as  short  as  possible,  that  the 
trees  need  not  be  bruised.  It  should  neither  run  so  deep 
nor  so  near  the  trees  as  to  injure  the  roots. 

The   Cultioator. — This,  with    the   plow,    obviates   the 


Fig.    161.— CULTIVATOR. 

necessity  of  spade-work,  and,  in  a  great  measure,  hoeing. 
If  the  ground  be  plowed  in  the  spring,  and  the  cultivator 
passed  over  it  once  every  week  or  two  during  the 
summer,  all  the  hoeing  necessary  will  be  a  narrow 
strip  of  a  few  inches  on  each  side  of  the  row.  The 
double-pointed  steel-toothed,  with  a  wheel  in  front,  as 
shown  ill  fig.  161,  is  the  best. 

The  Tree-Digging  Plow. — This  implement  facilitates 
the  work  and  entirely  supersedes  the  spade  in  the  labor 
of  digging  trees  of  the  usu.d  size  in  the  nursery,  where  aii 
entire  plot  is  to  be  cleared.  "  It  is  constructed  (see  fig. 
162)  with  two  beams,  one  to  run  on  each  side  of  the  row  of 
trees,  two  sets  of  handles,  and  a  peculiar  share,  much  in 
shape  like  the  letter  U.  This  share  is  very  sharp,  the 
horizontal  j)art  runs  under,  and  the  vertical  ones  on  each 


IMPLEMENTS   OF  THE  SOIL.  493 

side  of  the  trees,  and  the  roots  are  thus  smoothly  cut  off, 
wliile  tlie  trees  remain  standing.  The  plow  is  of  course  pro- 
pelled by  horses  and  guided  by  two  plowmen.  It  is  an 
admirable  implement  for  root-pruning  young  trees,  espe- 
cially evergreens,  in  place  of  the  old  practice  of  removing 


Fig.    163.— TREE-DIGGING  PLOW. 


them  in  order  to  cause  them  to  throw  out  fibres  and  make 
balls  suited  to  future  removal. 

The  One-IIorse  Cart. — This  is  an  indispensable  machine 
in  the  nursery,  orchard,  or  large  garden.  Four-wheeled 
wagons  are  difficult  to  unload,  and  recpiire  a  great  deal  of 
space  to  turn  in.  The  cart  can  be  turned  in  a  circle  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  feet,  and  the  load  discharged  in  a  mo- 
ment, simply  by  taking  out  the  key  that  fastens  the  ))ody 
to  the  shafts,  throwing  it  uj),  and  moving  the  horse  forward. 
Our  carts  are  about  six  feet  long  and  three  wide  in  the 
body,  shafts  six  feet  long,  wheels  four  and  a  half  feet 
high,  and  tire  two  and  a  half  wide,  to  prevent  them  from 
sinking  into  the  ground.  The  box  is  about  a  foot  deep, 
and  when  large  loads  are  to  be  carried  a  spreading  board 
is  put  on  the  top  with  brackets.     Cost  from  ^30  to  -^50. 

TJic  Wheelbarroio  (fig.  163).— Every  man  who  has  a 
rod  of  ground  to  cultivate  should  possess  this  m*\chine. 
In  small  gardens  it  is  sufficient  for  the  conveyance  of  all 
manures,  soils,  products,  etc.,  and  in  larger  places  it  is  al- 


494:      NUESERY    AND    FKUIT    GARDEN    IMPI^EMENTS. 


ways  needed  for  use,  where  a  cart  cannot  go.  The  handles 
or  levers  should  be  of  ash  or  some  tough  wood,  and  the 


Fig     163  — WIIEEI  BAKROW 

sides  and  bottom  of  any  light  wood.     The  wheel  is  soft 
wood,  shod  with  iron. 

The  Spade  (fig.  164).— The  best  kinds 
of  these  in  use  are  Ames'  cast-steel; 
excellent,  strong,  light  articles.  They 
work  cleiui  and  bright  as  silver.  There 
are  several  sizes.  For  heavy  work, 
trenching,  draining,  raising  trees,  etc., 
the  lai'gest  should  be  used. 

The  Sliovel  {^^.  165).— This  is  used 
in  mixing,  loading,  and  spreading  com- 
posts and  short  manures.  The  blade 
should  be  of  cast-steel. 

The  Forked  Spade  (fig.  166).— This 
resembles  a  fork.  It  has  three  to  five 
^tout  cast-steel  tines,  at  least  an  inch 
wide,  and  pointed.  It  is  used  instead 
of  a  spade  to  loosen  the  earth  about 
the  roots  of  trees,  to  turn  in  manures, 
etc.,  being  much  less  liable  to  cut  and 
injure  them  than  the  spade. 
Fig.  154. -SPADE.  'rp^^  Bmxg-Forh  (fig.  167).— There 
are  several  kinds.     Those  of  cast-steel,  cut  out  of  a  solid 


IMPLEMENTS   OF  THE  SOIL. 


495 


plate,  with  three  or  four  lines,  are  the  best,  light  and  dura- 
ble; they  are  sometimes  made  with  six  tines.  It  is  the 
only  implement  proper  for  loading,  mixing,  or  spreading 
fresh  rough  manures  with  facility  and  disj)atch. 


Fig.  165.— SHOVEL, 


FOIUCKD    SPADES. 


The  Pick. — This  is  a  useful,  and  even  indispensal)le 
implement  in  the  deepening  or  trenching  of  soils  with  a 
hard  subsoil  that  cannot  be  operated  upon  witli  the  spade. 
It  consists  of  an  ash  handle,  and  a  head  composed  of  two 
levers  of  iron  pointed  with  steel,  and  an  eye  in  the  centre 
for  the  handle. 

The  Garden-Line  mid  Reel  (fig.  1G8).— The  line  should 
be  a  good  hemp  cord,  from  one  eighth  to  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  attached  to  liglit  iron  stakes  about  eigh- 
teen inches  long.     On  one  of  the  stakes  a  reel  is  attached. 


496      NURSERY  AND   FRUIT   GARDEN    IMPLEMENTS. 


This  is  turned  by  means  of  a  handle,  and  the  line  neatly 

and  quickly  wound  up. 

The  Jloe. — This  is  a  universal  instrument  in  this  coun- 
try.    In  some  cases, 

all     the     gardening 

operations    are    per- 
formed with  it.     Its 

uses   in   tree  culture 

are  to  open  trenches 

for   seeds,    to    cover 

them,  to  loosen  and 

clean  the  surface  of 

the      ground      from 

weeds,    etc.      There 

are    two    kinds,  the 

draw  hoe  (figs.  169, 

170,    171)    and    the 

Dutch  or  thrust  hoe 

(fig,  172) ;  this  we  do 

not   use  at   all.     Of 

the    diflierent    kinds 

and     forms    of    the 

draw  hoe,  the   most 

generally    useful    is 

the  square,  a  cast- 
steel  plate,  about  six  inches  long  and  four  wide,  with  a 
light,  smooth  handle.  The  semicircular 
and  triangular  hoes  may  be  advantage- 
ously used  in  certain  cases. 

TJie  Pointed  Garden  Hoe  (fig.  173)  is 
useful  among  borders  and  small  plants. 
The  Bake  (fig.  174)  is  used  to  level, 
smooth,  pulverize,  and  clean  the  surface 
of  the  ground  after  it  has  been  spaded 
Fig.  168.-LINE  AND  or  hoed,  or  to  ]>repare  it  for  seeds,  etc. 
They  are  of  different  sizes,  with  from 


Fijr.  167.— DUNG- 


IMPLEMENTS    FOR    CUTTING. 


407 


six  to  twelve  teeth.  The  Lest  are  those  of  which  the 
head  and  teeth  are  drawn  out  of  a  solid  bar  of  steel. 
(I J  Tliose  that  are  welded  and  riveted  soon  get 
out  of  order. 

Section  2. — Implements  for  Cutting. 

The  Pruning  Saw. — Tliis  is  used  for  cutting 
off  branches,  either  too  large  for  the  knife,  or  so 
8itu;ited  that  the  ktiife  cannot  operate.     It  has 
various  sizes   and  forms.      Some    are  jointed, 
and  fold  like  a  pruning-knife ;  others  are  like 
the  common  carpenter's  handsaw,  but  smaller 
and  stouter.     Two  forms  are  sliown  at  fig.  175. 
The  Jioio-Saic  (fig.  176). — This  is  the  most 
generally  useful  form  for  tlie  gardener  or  nur- 
Fig.     169.— serymau.     The  blade  is  very  narrow,  and  stiff- 
sQUAKE     ^^^^  Y)Y  an  arch  back.     It  is  fastened  at  both 

DRAW-HOE.  Z  •         ^     X         xU  1   •    1       *l, 

ends  by  a  rivet  to  the  screw  on  which  the 
back  turns,  and  by  which  it  is  adapted  to  different  i)ur- 
poses.  It  is  indispensable  in  making  horizontal  cuts  close 
to  the  ground,  as  in  heading  down. 

Some  are  set  with  a  double  row  of  teeth  on  one  side, 


Y\'i.  170.— TRIANGULAIl  mtAW-HOE.     T\^.  171.— SEMICrRCUI-AR  DRAW-HOB. 

and  tlie  edge  is  much  thicker  than  the  back ;  these  work 
mucli  easier  than  those  toothed  in  tlie  ordinary  way,  and 
it  would  be  an  object  to  have  them  where  much  saw-prua- 


408      NURSERY  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN   IMPLEMENTS. 


H 


172. — DUTCH    OR 
THUUST-nOE. 


ing  is  to  be  done.  "Wherever  the  saw  is  used,  the  cut 
surface  should  be  pared  smooth  with  the  knife,  to  facili- 
tate its  healing. 

Long-handled  pruning-saws  are  sometimes  recomru^uided, 
but  never  should  be 
used  in  pruning  fruit- 
trees,  if  possible  to 
avoid  it.  The  branch 
to  be  operated  should 
be  reached  by  means 
of  a  ladder,  if  need 
be,  within  arm's 
length,  and  cut  with 
a  common  saw. 

Hand  Pruning- 
Shears  (fig.  177).— 
There  is  a  kind  of 
these  made  now, 
that,  having  a  mov- 
ing center,  as  in  the 
figure,  make  a  smooth 
draw  cut  almost 
equal  to  that  of  a 
knife,  and  it  is  a  very- 
expeditious  instru- 
ment in  the  hand  of 
a  skilful  workman.  In  pruning  out  small 
dead  branches,  shortening  in  peach- 
trees,  etc.,  It  will  perform  four  times  as 
much  work  as  a  knife.  ^.^^    ^^.  _  ^^^^^^^ 

Prunmg  Scissors  (fig.  178).— These        garden-hoe. 
scissors  cut  as  smoothly  as  a  knife,  and  can  be  easily  car- 
ried in  the  pocket,  ready  to  take  away  a  small  branch 
wherever  it  may  chance  to  be  observed. 

Lopping  or  Branch  Shears.— These  are  very  strongly 


IMPLEMENTS  I'Oll   CUTTING. 


499 


made,  with  loug  wooden  handles,  and  are  used  for  cutting 
,|  ^^  thick    branches  from    trees,  shrub- 

l^^^^^^        hery,  hedges,  etc.      One    form    is 
shown  in  fig.  179. 

Pole  Pruning/  /Shears.  —  These 
resemble  the  hand-shears,  but  are 
worked  by  a  string  passing  over  a 
pulley,  and  are  fixed  on  a  pole  of 
anyiequired  length.  They  are  used 
in  cutting  cions,  diseased  shoots, 
III  1 1  iljlll        etc.,- from  the  heads  of  lofty  stand- 

■1'''    ■     '   lill      ar^  trees. 

Grcrpe  Scissors. — These  are  small, 
sharp-pointed  scissors,  as  in  fig.  180, 
for  thinning  bunches  of  grapes. 

The  rrimififf-JCnffe.— The  best 
for  general  purposes  are  those  of 
medium  size,  with  a  handle  about 
four  inches  long,  smooth,  slightly 
hollowed  in  the  back ;  the  blade 
about  three  and  a  half  inches  long, 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  and 
nearly  straight  (fig.  lf!<l).     For  very  heavy  work  a  larger 


GARDEN   HAKE. 


Fiur.  175. — proning-saws. 


size  may  be  necessary.     "  Saynor's  "  (English)  knives  of 
this  kind  are   unsurpassed   in  material   and  finish. 

The  JiuddiH(/'Kjnfe.— This  is  much  smaller  than  the 


600      NFESERY  AND   FRIJIT   GARDEN   IMPLEMENTS. 


pruning-knife,  with  a  thin,  straight  blade,  the  edge  some- 
times rounded  at  the  point.     The  handle    is  of  bone   or 

ivory,  and  has  a  thiiij 
wedge-sliaped  end  for 
raising  the  bark.  Bud- 
ders  have  various  fan- 
cies about  shape  and 
size;  one  form  is  given  in  figure  182, 

The  Grafting-  Chisel. — This  is  used  for  splitting  large 


Fig.    178. — PBUNING-SCISSORS. 


Fig.    177. — HAND   PRimiNG-SHEAKS. 

stocks  ;  the  blade  is  about  two  inches  long,  and  an  inch  and 

a  half  wide,  in  the  shape  of  a  wedge  ;  the  edge  curved  so 

as  to  cut,  and  not  tear  the  bark ;  the  handle  eight  or  ten 
inches  long,  at  the  end  of 
which  is  a  narrow  wedge  to 
keep  the  split  open  until  the 
cion  is  inserted.  (See  figure 
183.)     The  whole  is  of  steel. 

Some  are  made  with  the  blade  in  the   middle,  the  wedge 

at  one  end,  and 

a  hook  to  hang 

it    by  bn    the 

other, 

Mr.  David  S. ' 

Wagner,      o  f 

Pulteney,     N. 

Y,,  has  invent- 
ed an  ingenious 

implement   for 

grafting  grapes 

know  about  it  may  inquire  of  the  mventor^ 


Fig,  179.— LOPPING  OR  BRAKCH  SHEARS. 

as  it   is   patented,  those  who    desire  to 


IMPLEMENTS  FOR  CUTTING. 


501 


Tree-8cra][>er 


Fig.    180.— GRAPE   SCISSORS, 


184). — This  is  made  of  heavy  plate- 
steel,  with  a  long,  jointed 
handle  for  scraping  upper 
branches,  or  a  short  one 
for  the  trunks. 


Section  3, — Laddkrs  and  Fruit-Gatherers. 


Ladders. — Of  these  there  are  many  kinds, 
fruit-garden,  where 
the  trees  are  low, 
the  self-supporting 
ladder  (fig.  185)  is 
the  most  conveni- 
ent and  best 


For  the 


Fi!^.    181.    riiUNING-KNIFE. 


Fig.    182. — BUDDING-KNIFE, 


It  should,  be  made  of  light  wood,  with  flat 
steps,  so  that  a  person 
can  stand  upon  them 
and  work.  The  back, 
or  supports,  consist  of 
One  or  two  light  pieces  of  timber,  fixed  at  the  top  with 
hooks  and  straps,  so  as  to  be  contracted  or  extended  at 
pleasure.  A  ladder  of 
this  kind,  six  or  eight 
feet  high,  will  ansAver 
all  the  demands  of  a 
garden. 

Orchard  Ladders  are  of  various  kinds.  For  pruning  or 
gathering  the  fruit  from  lofty  trees,  a  great  length  of  lad- 
der is  necessary ;  it  is  therefore  desirable  that  the  mate- 
rial be  as  light  as 
possible      consistent 

with    the   necessary 

I^^  strength.  Some- 

times these  long  lad- 
ders   are    composed 
fit   into    one   another,  all 


GRAFTING    CHISEL. 


Fig.    184. — TREE-SCKAPEK. 

of  several    smaller   ones,  that 


503      NURSERY  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN  IMPLEMENTS. 


mounted  on  a  frame  with  a  small  wbeel,  by  wLicli  they 
are  easily  moved  about. 

The  Folding  Ladder  is  a  very  neat  and  convenient  ar« 
ticle  for  many  purposes.  The 
inside  of  the  styles  is  hol- 
lowed out,  and  the  steps  are 
fastened  to  them  by  means  of 
iron  pins,  on  which  they  turn 
as  on  hinges,  so  that  the  two 
sides  can  be  brought  together, 
the  steps  turning  into  the 
grooves  or  hollows  in  them, 
the  whole  appearing  like  a 
round  pole — B.  It  is  more 
easily  carried  and  })lacGd  where 
wanted  than  the  ordinary  lad- 
der. A  re])resents  it  open, 
and  B  closed  (fig.  186). 
There  are  also  Self-supporting  Orchard-Badders^  com- 
posed of  three  upright  pieces  of  any  required  length,  and 
spread  widely  at  the  bottom,  to  give  them  stability.    Two 


Fig.    185. — FRUIT-LADDER. 


^ 


Fig.    186. — FOLDING  LADDER. 


of  the  sides  are  fixed,  and  are  furnished  with  steps  all 
the  way  up.  The  third  is  longer  and  movable,  and  can 
be  extended  or  contracted  at  pleasure. 

A  piece  of  boaz'd  wide  enough  to  stand  upon  can  be 
extended  from  one  side  to  the  other,  resting  upon  the 
steps  at  whatever  bight  it  is  desirable  to  work.  On  the 
movable  side  a  pulley  is  fixed,  by  which  the  baskets  oi 
fruit  are  let  down  as  they  are  gathered.     Two  persons  of 


LADDERS   AND   FRUIT-GATHERERS. 


503 


more  can  ascend  and  work  on  a  ladder  at  the  same  time 
Fig.  187  represents  one  of  these ;  a,  5,  the  two  fixed 
sides  ;  C,  the  movable  one  It 
IS  considerably  used  hi  Fram*e 
The  Orchard} sfs  IFomI.  '8  a 
liglit  rod,  Avith  a  hook  on  one 
end,  and  a  movable  piece  of 
■wood  that  slides  along  it. 

The  person  gathering  fruit 
draws  tie  branch  towards 
him  with  the  hooked  end,  and 
retains  it  there  by  means  of 
the  sliding  piece  which  is 
hooked  to  another  branch. 
This  is  an  indispensable  in- 
strument in  gathering  fruit 
from  large  trees. 

Fruit-  Gatherers.  —  Of  these 
there  are  many  designs  by  which  the  fruit  may  be  taken 


Fig.    187.— SELF-SUPPORTING 
OKCHAKD   LADDER. 


Fig.    ISS.— ORAPE-OATHERER. 

from  the  tree  by  a  person  standing  on  the  ground.     They 

mi 


Fi?.    189.— HAND   SYRINGE. 

answer  very  well  for  gathering  a  few  ripe  specimens  for 


504      NURSERY  AKD   FRUIT  GARDEX   IMPLEMENTS. 

immediate  consumption.  The  ladder,  hook,  and  hatid  are 
the  only  safe  and  expeditious  fruit-gatherers.  Some  are 
made  in  the  form  of  a  vase  of  wood  or  tin  placed  on  the 
end  of  a  pole.  The  edge  of  tlie  vase  is  toothed,  and 
when  the  stem  of  the  fruit  is  taken  between  two  of  the 
teetli,  and  slightly  twisted,  it  drops.  Others  are  composed 
of  a  pair  of  shears  on  tlie  end  of  a  pole,  to  which  a  basket 
'is  attached  that  slides  up  and  down  the  handle. 


Fl^     100  — BARROW-ENGINE. 

The   Grape-  Gatherer  resembles  a  pair  of  shears  com- 
bining the  property  of  pincers.     They  cut  a  bunch  of 


MACHINES  FOR   WATERING.  505 

grapes,  and  hold  it  firmly  until  it  is  brought  down. 
These  are  very  useful  for  gathering  a  few  bunchea  of 
grapes  from  the  top  of  a  house  or  trellis  (fig.  188). 

Sectiox   4. — ^Machines   for   Watering. 

The  Hand-Syringe  (fig.  1S9). — This  is  a  very  useful 
Implement  for  sprinkling  and  washuig  the  foliage  of  trees 
in  dry  weather.  There  are  various  kinds,  made  of  tin, 
copper,  and  brass,  and  sold  at  various  prices.  Whatever 
sort  is  used  should  have  several  caps  {A)  to  regulate  tlie 
quantity  or  shower  of  water  discharged ;  and  they  should 
also  have  an  inverted  or  "  gooseneck"  one  {B)  to  throw 
the  stream,  if  necessary,  on  the  under  side  of  leaves,  or  in 
any  oblique  direction. 

There  are,  also,  hatul-engines^  barrel-engines^  and  hw' 
rote-engines,  all  of  which  are 
very  useful.  In  every  large 
garden  there  should  be  both  the 
syringe  and  one  of  these  en- 
gines; for  watering  is  a  most 
important  atfair  in  gardening 
under  our  hot  sun  and  pro- 
„,.n„.„x.,^  x,^,.       tracted  drouths. 

-WATERING-POT. 

7^he  jBarroic  -  JEngine  (fig. 
190)  is  the  most  useful  for  general  purposes;  it  is  easily 
moved  from  one  j)lace  to  another.  The  improved  kinds  are 
easily  worke<l,  and  the  water-box,  being  ])rovided  with  a 
strainer,  excludes  anything  likely  to  derange  its  operations. 
I'he  Garden  Watering-jwt  (fig.  191). — This  is  a  tin 
or  copper  vessel  that  may  hold  from  one  to  four  gal- 
lons of  water,  with  a  spout  sia  or  eight  inches  long,  by 
which  the  water  is  discharged.  There  should  be  a  rose  or 
roses,  as  in  cut,  to  fit  on  the  spout,  pierced  with  hwge  or 
small  holes,  by  which  the  water  can  be  discharged  in  a 
shower.  Every  ])ot  may  have  several  roses,  pierced  with 
boles  of  various  sizes,  to  adapt  them  to  difierent  purposes. 


INDEX, 


Almonds  459 

American  Blif,'hl  4HU 

Aniiuals    Iiijmious    to    Fruits   and 

Pruit-Trees 489 

Ants    48'r 

Aphis  or  Plant  Louse 479 

Apple  and  Pv;ar  as  Espaliers,  Tiain- 

ing 239 

'•      asa  Dwarf  on  Paradise  Slock. .237 

"      Bli-rht 475 

"      for  Dwarfs a07 

"      Pruniiiirthe , 220 

"      Tree  Borer 481 

"      Trees,  Cordon 207 

"      Worm ..482 

Apple?,  Autninn 330 

Choice  Garden  Varieties. .  .302 

"         Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

"  for  Dwarfs 302 

"  Forms  of.   02 

"         For  Ornament,  etc 358 

"         List  of,  for  tlie  States 301 

"         Packini.' 408 

"         Snnunur 331 

Winter 340 

Apricots :i86 

"         Distance  apart  to  Plant  . .  217 

Planting 190 

"         Pruningand  Management.  .209 

Traininj,' 211 

Barberries ...  107 

Bark,  Inner... 25 

"      Outer 26 

Bark-Louse 450 

Berljerries 434 

Bitter  Rol 475 

Blackberries 100,  434 

Packing 470 

Blackberry,  Culture  of  llie 317 

Blossoming  in  alternate  Years 55 

Period  of 52 

Branches,  Curved 29 

Erect  .. 29 

"  Horizontal     29 

Lateral 29 

Main 28 

Secondary 29 

fihd,  Insertion  of 149 

"     Treatment  of  the  Growing  . . .  151 

Buddiii",  Propagation  by 89 

Time  of 148 

Puds 35 

•'    Adventitious 37 

"    Axilary .37 

"    Compound  and  Simple  Fruit..  39 

"    Cutting  and  Preparing 90 

"    Dormant  or  Latent 38 

"    Fruit 39 

"    Inferior —  38 

"    Lateral 37 

"    Leaf , 38 

"    Names  and  Characters  of 37 

"    Nature  and  Functions  of 35 

"    Preserving 90 

"    Stipular.. 38 

'•    Superior 38 

"    Terminal 37 

"    Untying 150 

(506) 


C.ankcr-Worm 483 

Cats 490 

Clierrics 388 

Distance  apart  to  Plant 217 

Forms  of. 04 

Heart 388 

Packing 470 

"        Pyramidal-headed  Standard  S51 

"        Select  List  of 394 

Cherry  and  Pear  Slug 484 

"        Prun  I  ng  as  a  Py  ram  i  d  25 1 

"  "        as  a  Dwarf  or  Bush. 253 

"  '•  "        "  Standard  254 

"  "        an  Espalier 952 

"        Pruning  the 249 

"        Pyramidal  form  for 209 

"        Trees,  Setting  Standard.   . . .  190 

Chestnuts 107,400 

Cions 94 

Climate .53 

Codling-Motli,  Destroying  tlie 482 

Corilon,  Dwarf   Apple  Trained    in 

Horizontal 207 

Training  of  Pear  Trees 243 

Cracking 475 

Curculio  or  Plum-Weevil  485 

Currant  as  an  Espalier 311 

as  a  Pyramid 310 

Pruningthe 310 

"        the  Black 311 

Worm 455 

Currants 165,  419 

"        Distance  apart  to  Plant 218 

Packing 470 

Custard  Apples 459 

Cuttings,  Propairation  by 83 

Diseases,  Ajjple  Blight 475 

Bitter  Rot 475 

"         Cracking 475 

"         Curl   of  the  Leaf  in  the 

Peach 479 

"         Fire-Blight 474 

"         Gum  in  Stone  Fruits 476 

"  Mildew  475 

"  Pear-Leaf  Blight 470 

"         Plum  Black  Knot 478 

Rot  of  the  Grape 478 

"  Rust  or   Fungus 475 

Twig-Blight 474 

"         Yi'llows  in  the  Peach  ...477 
Distances  to  Plant : 

Espalier  Apple-trees 218 

"       Cherry-trees 218 

Plum-trees 218 

Horizontal  Cordon  Trees 21" 

Espalier  Pear-trees. 218 

Oblique  Cordon  Trees 219 

Pyramidal  Apple-trees 218 

Pear-trees 218 

Plum-trees 218 

Double  Working 100 

Draining 73 

Dwarf  Bushes 157 

"      Clierry-trees 2.53 

"     Standard  Cherry-tree 254 

Dwarfs  and  Dwarf  Standards 213 

'•      the  Apple  for 207 

£.spalier  Cherry-trees 353 


llfDEl. 


50"? 


Espalier,  Currant  as  an 311 

•'       Fan-shapud 2«>2 

"       Peach-tree    2(il 

"  "        '•    Sqimrj 2ti7 

"       Trees 158 

Pig,  Pro^jagalion  of  the 305 

"    Training  in  Graperies 307 

the ..306 

Figs 167,  451 

Filbert,  Form  of 211 

Filberts 167,460 

"      Distance  apart  to  Plant 218 

Fire-Blight 474 

Flowers,  Diflereut  Cliaracters  of . . .    53 

"        Parts  of 49-53 

Fruit  and  Kitchen  Garden 201 

''     Branches,  Management  of  . .  235 

"      Characters  of 56 

"     Classification  of 56 

Sizeof 60 

"     Different  Parts  of.  58 

"     Form  of 61 

"      Haiidliiijr 468 

"     Garden,  Inclosures  for 197 

Laying  out 199 

"         Proper 199 

"         "         Selection  of  Trees 204 

"         •'        Situation  of 196 

"  "         Soil  for 197 

"  "         Trellises  for 198 

"         Walks  in  the 202 

"         Water  for 204 

"     Gatliering 462 

"     Marking 467 

"      Packing  466 

"      Ripening 464 

"     Rooms 471 

"     Spurs aj 

•'     Trees,  Diseases  of 474 

Fruits,  Aiter.tion  to,  in  Cellar   or 

Fruit-Room 473 

"     Color  of 64 

"     Different  Properties  of 59 

"     Flavor  of &"> 

"     for  an  Orchard,  Varieties  of.  .181 

"     Select  Varieties  of 329 

Garden,  Mixed 201 

Germination,  Air  in ..    68 

"  Conditions  of 67 

"  ExclusiouofLight  in.  68 

"  Heat  in 68 

"  Moisture  in 67 

Grafting,  Cleft 97 

Composition 95 

Grape  160 

"     Cuttings *i,  161 

"     Layering  the 160 

"     Mildewofthe 478 

"      Root  of  the 478 

Grapery,  Border  for 290 

"       Cleaning  the  vines  in  a....»t3 

Pruning  the  vines  in  a 292 

"        Thinning  the  Fruit  in  a. ..293 

Vines  for 291 

Grapes,  Buildings  for  Foreign 289 

"       Culture, Pruning,  and  Train- 
ing of   271 

"       Distaucft  apart  to  Plaut 273 


Grapes,  Foreign 4S0 

Foreign  in  Cold  Vineries.  ..288 

Garden  Ciillure  of ...272 

Hardy  Native 271 

Native 436 

Packing , 470 

"       Posi  tion  of  the  Vine  or  Bor- 
der for 273 

"        Pruning 275 

Soils  for 272 

Trellis  for 273 

Vineyard  Culture  of. 282 

Gooseberry,  I'ruuing  the 307 

Gooseberries 165,421 

"  Distance  apart  to  plant  218 

Heart  or  Perfect  Wood 26 

Hedge-Fences  for  Orchards 180 

Hoeling-in 172 

Hogs 490 

Hybridization 54 

Implements 491 

Insects,    Ants 487 

"        Aphis  or  Plant  Louse 479 

"       Apple-tree  Borer 481 

Apple  Worm 482 

Canker  Worm 483 

"        Caterpillars 483 

Clieny  and  Pear  Slug 484 

Codling  Moth 482 

"        Cureulio 4S5 

"        Currant  Worm 485 

Leal-Rollers 489 

"        Peach-tree  Borers 488 

Rose-Bug 489 

"        Scaly  Aphis 481 

Labels  for  Nursery  Trees 168 

Layering,  Propagation  by 86 

Laying  out  the  Fruit-Garden 199 

Leaves,  Structure  and  Functions  of.. 40 

Lemons 458 

Limes 458 

Manure,  Liquid 79 

Manures 74 

Manuring 323 

Medlar,  Treatment  of 249 

Mice,   Field 489 

Mildew 475 

Moles 490 

M ul berries 166,  43(5 

Mulching 193.323 

Nectarine,  Pruning  the 270 

'*       Training  the 211 

Nectarines 35M 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant.  .217 

New  Varieties,  Production  of. 81 

Nursery 121,154 

Oranges 456 

Orchard 176 

"        Arrangement  of  Trees  in . .  185 

"        Preparation  of  Soil  for  an. .180 

Selection  of  Trees  for  an  .184 

Seleclicm  of  Varieties  for.  .329 

"        Situation  of 176 

Soil  for 179 

Orchard-House,  Trees  in  Tubs   or 

Pots  in  the  ....297 
"  Varieties   of  Trees 

for  291 


m 


mm^. 


Oi-chird-Honsea 

Maiiajjeiiient  of 

Orchaids,  Hedge-Feiio-es  lor 

luclosures  lor 

Planting 

Packing 

Pawpaws 

Peacli  as  a  Dwarf  Standard 

"    Curl  of  tlie  Leaf  in 

"    Mildew  on  the 

"    Pruning  the 

"    Tree  as  an  Espalier 

"    TreeBoi-r 

"    Tree,  Formi ng  i  Standard . . . 
"    Tree  in  the  Form  of  a  Vase. . 

"    Tree,  Pruning  Hie 

"    Tree,  Root-Pruning  the 

"    Trees,  Dwarf 

"    Trees,  Fan-shaped  Espalier. . 

"    Trees.  Setting ..   .. 

"    Trees  trained  ou  a  Wall 

"    Yellows  in  the 

Peaches 

"     Distance  apart  to  Plant 

"     Forms  of 

"     Packing 

"     Select  Garden 

"      S  lect  List  of. 

Pear  as  a  Pyramid 

"    Pruningtlie 

"    Seedlings 

"    in  Wine-glass  Form 

Pear-leaf  Blight 

Pear-Trees,  Cordon-trained 

"           Cutting  hack  Pyramid- 
al  

"  First  Pruning  of 

"  Oblique  Cordon 

"  Pruning  the  Yearling.. 

"  Pyramid 

"  Third  Pruning  of. 

"  Training  Standard 

Pears,  Distanceapart  to  Plant 

"        Forms  of 

"       Packing 

"        Select  Assortment  of 

Pinching 109, 

Pith 

Plants,  Exhalation  of  Moisture  from. 

PlowiuiT,  Subsoil 

Plum  as  a  Dwarf  Pyramid 

"      as  a  Pyramid ... 

"      Beach.. 

"      Pruning  and  Management  of. 

"      Soil  for 

"      Trees.  Setlins 

Phim-tree  Wart  or  Black- Knot 

Plums 

"      Distance  apart  to  Plant 

"      Forms  of 

"      Packing 

"      Select  List  of 

Pomegranates  

Propagating  Fruit-Trees 

Propagation  by  Division  of  Plants. 

Pruning  of  the  Peach 

Pruning   and  Preparing   Trees  fo 
Plauting 


Pruning,  Root... 104 

Season  for  108 

the  Apple  and  Pear »20 

as  Espaliers 239 

on  Paradise  Stock 237 

"        Apricot 269 

"        Cherry  as  a  Pyriimid 251 

"  "        "    Standard 250 

"        Currant 310 

"        Grape 275 

"         Gooseberry.  .^ 307 

"        Nectarine    270 

"         Peach  Tree 358 

Plum ...268 

"        Raspberry 312 

Pyramidal  Training 208 

Pyramids 155 

Quince,  Angers 130 

"       Pruning  and  Training  the.248 

"       Training  the 211 

Quinces 384 

"      Distance  apart  to  Plant...  217 

"      Packing 444 

Rabbits 490 

Raspberry,  Manuring  the 314 

Planting  the. 312 

"  Pruning  the ....312 

"  Summer  Pruning  the... 313 

"  Training  the 314 

"  Winter  Protection  for  .316 

Raspberries 166,  422 

"  Distance  apart  to  Plant.218 

"  Packing 470 

Root,  Diflerent  Parts  of  the 22 

"    Grafts,  Planting 146 

"         •'      Treatment  of. 150 

Roots,  Growth  of 23 

Rotation  of  Crops 123 

Rust  or  Fungus 475 

Sap,  Circulation  of 45 

'•    Wood 26 

Seed,  the 66 

Seeds,  Propagating  by    80 

Sloe...     136 

Soil,  Annual  Cultivation  of 323 

"    In  Nursery,  Treatment  of 159 

Soils 69 

"    Modes  of  Improving 71 

Staking 193 

Standards 152 

Dwarf ...146,155 

Stem 24 

"   Growth  of 27 

"    Structure  of 27 

"    The  Different  Parts  of 25 

Stocks 94 

"      Doucin 124 

"      for  Apples 124 

"      Cherry 131 

"      Apricot  and  Nectarine 134 

"■      Plum 135 

"      Mahaleb 132 

"      Paradise 124 

"      Peach 133 

"      Pear 127 

"      Planting  Peach 134 

"      Plum 134 

*'      Preparation  of. 149 


509 


stocks,  Preparing  and  Savini;  Seeds 

lor ; 132 

"      Quince I'iS 

"      Ilaisin-,' Seedlinj,' 134 

"      Tnirisplimtin^' 137 

Straw  berry,  Culture  of  the 318 

Strawberries  165, 427 

Packing 470 

Suckers*,  Propa^jation  by 88 

Takinfj  up  Trees  from  the  Nursery..  168 

Training  the  Apple 207 

"        Apricot  and  Nectarine 211 

Ciierry 209 

'J        Filbert     211 

Peach 210 

Pear 208 

"        Quince 211 

"        Plum 209 

Trees,    After-management   of    Or- 
chard   193 

"        Age  of 212 

"       Arraiigem.ntof.in  Orchard.  185 
"       Arrangement  in  Regard  to 

Position 216 

"       Distance  apart  to  Plant 216 

"       Fastening     to    Walls    and 

Trellises 268 

"       for  Market  or  Commercial 

Orchard 187 

Formof 204 

"       General  Remarks  upon  the 

Structure  of 21 

Heeling-in...   172 

"        Labeling 160 

Mulching 193 


Trees,  Packing no 

Permanent     Plantations    of 

Fruit 175 

"      Planting 216 

"      Proieciing against  E.xtremes 

of  Temperature 334 

"      Pruiiini;  and    Preparing  for 

Planting 191 

"      Renovating  Pyramidal  Apple 

and  Pear 324 

"      Selection  of i^ 

"      Setting  Peach 182 

"      Selling  Plum UK) 

"      Setting  Standard  Cherry 190 

"      Slaking 193 

"      Taking  up 216 

Trellis  fur  Oblique  Cordon  Trees... 247 

Trellises i<(8 

Trenching 72 

Twiir-Bli^ht 474 

Vineyard  Culture  of  Grapes 282 

Depth  to  set  the  Plants  in.286 
"         Distance  apart  to  set  the 

Vines  in     285 

Kinds  of  Plants  for 285 

"         Methods  of  Training  in.. 286 
"         Preparation  of  Soil  for  .  .284 

Pruninga 286 

"         Shelter  for 284 

Soil  and  Situation  for.... 283 

"         Time  to  Plant  a 285 

Walks  in  the  Fniit  Garden     202 

Waliiuls 167,4(il 

Water!  ng 324 

Yellows  on  the  Peach 477 


INDEX    TO     THE     DIFFERENT     FRIITS. 

The  standard  names  are  in  Roman  letters  ;  the  synonymous  names  in  Italics. 


Almonds. 

Bitter  Aljnond 459 

Ladies'  Thin-shell 459 

Soft  Sweet-shell 4.59 

Sweet  Hard-shell 459 

Apples. 

Alexander 336 

American  Beauty 341 

American  Golden  Pippin 312 

American  Golden  Russet 341 

Autumn  Strawberry 339 

Autumn  Sweet  Bough :«6 

Bailey's  Sweet :i42 

Batchelor S53 

Beauty  of  Kent ^^\ 

Belle  de  Boskoop 342 

Belmont 342 

Ben  Davis 34:i 

Bentley's  Sweet 343 

liiack  Coal 347 

Blue  Pearmain 343 

Bonum 343 

Broadwell.        3t.! 

Bt i'T's  Sweet 3^.8 

Buckingham S43 

Bullocks  Pippin 341 


Calef  Sweet 344 

Campfield 3;16 

Canada  Reinette 344 

Cannon  Pearmain .344 

Carters  Blue .^36 

Cayuga  Red  Streak 3.56 

Cham/ilain 8:>4 

Chenango  Strawberry :J37 

Cherry  Crab :<59 

Chicago .359 

Cogswell 344 

Cooper's  Market 344 

Cornell's  Fancy .337 

Coral 3.59 

Currant 359 

Cullasaga :i44 

Danver's  Winter  Sweet .344 

Dartmouth .359 

Disharoon 344 

Domine. .345 

Duchess  of  Oldenburg .3:17 

Dutch  Mignonne .345 

Dyer .3:17 

Enollih  Red  Streak  :M5 

English  Russet »J5 

Engligh  Sweet 3.52 

liarly  Sweet  Bough 33$ 


510 


Esopus  Spltzenburgh 345 

EquineUly 343 

Fallawater 345 

Fall  Bough 3oB 

F(Ul  Cheese  of  Virginia 3o9 

Fall  Pippin 337 

Fall  tiuuen 345 

Fall  Uueea 343 

Fall  Wiue 338 

Family 333 

Fameuse 346 

Fanny 333 

Foundling 333 

Garden  Royal 3:^8 

Gate 342 

Golden  Pippin  of  Westchester  Co..X42 

Golden  Spice 33T 

Golden  Russet  of  Western  N.  Y..  .34H 

Golden  Sweet  333 

Granite  Beauty 346 

Gravenstein. .  338 

Green  Clieese 346 

Green  Newtown  Pippin ;350 

Green  Svveut 347 

Grimes'  Golden 347 

Haas S45 

Hall  347 

Havvthornden 338 

Hay's 357 

Hewes'  Virginia  Crab 347 

Hightop  Sweet 333 

Hocking 335 

Hominy.  ...  341 

Himey  Greening 347 

Hoover 347 

Hubbardston  Nonsuch  .     347 

Hurlbut. 347 

Hyslop 359 

Jcfferies.        3:38 

Jeniton 353 

Jersey  Sweet 338 

Jewetr s  Fine  Red 347 

Jonathan 348 

Johnson'' s  Fine  Winter 358 

Julian 333 

Julien 333 

Junaluskee 348 

Keswick  Codlin 339 

King  of  Tompkins  County :W8 

Lady  Apple 348 

Lady  Crab 35i) 

Lady  Elgin .359 

Lady's  Sweet  348 

Lake  Winter :i59 

Large  Red  Siberian  Crab 359 

Large  Striped  Winter  Peai-main 3i9 

Large  Yellow  Siberian  Crab  360 

Late  Strawberry 339 

Large  Yellow  Bough 3313 

Limber  Twig 348 

LipptncolVs  Early 335 

Little  Pearmain 341 

Little  Rornanite 34fi 

Lowell 339 

Lvmar.'s  Pumpkin  Sweet 339 

McAffee's  Nonsuch 349 

Mi'Cloud's  Family 333 

Mangum 339 


Magnum  Bonum.... 34? 

Maiden's  Blush 339 

Mann 349 

Marengo 360 

Melon..  349 

Menagere 340 

Milam ■ . .  .34' 

Missouri  Keeper 349 

Missouri  Pippin 349 

Monmouth  Pippin  349 

Montreal  Beauty 360 

Moore's  Sweet 349 

Mother 350 

Munson  Sweet 350 

Myer's  Nonpareil 340 

Newtown  Pi  ppin. ...        350 

Newtown  Spitzenburgh 350 

Newark  Sweeting 336 

New  York  Pippin 343 

Nickajack  351 

Nodhead 347 

Northern  Spy 351 

Oblong  Siberian  Crab 360 

Ohio  Nonpareil 340 

Ohio  Wine 338 

Orange  Sweet 350 

Oettey 351 

Pewaukee 351 

Peck's  Pleasant 351 

Phillip's  Sweet 352 

Plumb's  Cider 353 

Pomme  Royale 33T 

Pomme  Grise 357 

Porter 340 

Poughkeepsie  Russet 339 

Primate 334 

Pryor's  Red 352 

Pumpkin  Sweet 339 

Queen  Anne a39 

Rambo    352 

Ramsdell's  Sweet 352 

Rawle's  Janet 353 

Red  Astrachan 334 

Red  Bietigheimer 340 

Red  Canada 353 

Redling 344 

Red  Russet 353 

Red  Siberian  Crab 360 

Red  Spitzenburgh 340 

Red  Sweet  PipjAn 349 

Red  Winter  Pearmain 3'>3 

Reinette  Canada 344 

Repka 334 

Rhode  Island  Greening 353 

Ribston  Pippin 353 

Richard's  Graft 340 

Richfield  Nonsuch 353 

Ridge  Pippin 354 

Roman  Stem 354 

Rome  Beauty 341 

Roxbury  Russet 354 

Shernood's  Favoiite 337 

Shiawassee  Beauty .'?54 

Shockley 354 

Smith's  Cider 354 

Smokehouse 355 

Snow 346 

Sops  of  Wine 341 


INDEX. 


511 


sterling  Beanty 3-Jl 

Steveusou's  Winter 355 

St.  Lawrence H41 

Stump 311 

Summer  Hajrloe 3  4 

Summer  Pippin 334 

Summer  Queen :j34 

Summer  Rose 335 

Summer  Sweet  Paradise 335 

Sutton  Beauty 355 

Swaai- 355 

Sweet  June 333 

Sylvan  Sweet 360 

Talman's  Sweet 355 

TaUow  Itppin 33i» 

Tetofsky 335 

Tewksbury  Winter  Blush :i55 

Titovka ;i35 

Titus  Apple 3.>5 

Towuseiid :Wi 

Trauscendent 360 

Tidp^hocken 345 

Twenty  Ounce 35ti 

Varuievere  of  New  York 350 

Van  Wyck 360 

Vermont  Pumpkin  Sweet 330 

Virginia  Greening 356 

Wagoner 356 

Washington  Strawberry 341 

Wealthy ;i56 

Western   Beauty 356 

Westfleld  Seek-no-further 356 

White  Pippin 356 

While  Winter  Pcarmain 357 

Whitney 360 

Wine 357 

William's  Favorite :«5 

miliaiirx  Red  335 

Willow  Twig. 3.57 

Winter  liofe :«1 

Winter  Sweet  Paradise 357 

Winter  nine 357 

Wolf  River 357 

Wnolman's  Long 351 

Yellow  Bellflower 3."i8 

Yellow  Newtown  Pippin .358 

Yellow  Siberian  Crao 3(il 

Yellow  Transparent  33»'i 

York  Imperial 358 

Apricots. 

Alher-ro  de  Montgamet  . . 386 

Boaiige .386 

Blenheim 3S)) 

Breda :»6 

C.'iniiio  Groseo 386 

I)ul)Ois as6 

Early  Golden :«6 

Early  Masculine 387 

E:nly  Moorpark .380 

Heniskirke .3.S7 

Kaishii 387 

Lnrye  Early .387 

Mnntgamet .386 

Moorpark .3^7 

New  Large  Early 3S7 

Orange 387 

Paach 387 


Rod   Masculine .3S7 

Koyal 387 

Sardinian 3)s7 

Ship  ey 386 

Si.  Aiiibroise 3S7 

Turkey 387 

Berberries. 

Berberis  dulcVs 434 

I  Common  Red 434 

Purple-Fruiteij 434 

Purple-Leaved 434 

Sweet-Fruitid 434 

Variegated-Leaved  4;i4 

Violet-Fruited 434 

White-Fruitid 434 

Blackberries. 

Aga  warn .  .4,34 

Ancient  Briton 4;j4 

Dorchester ' .  .4;i4 

Early  Harvest 435 

Impi  oved  High  Bush 434 

Kittatinny 435 

Lawlon 435 

New  Rochelle ."435 

j  Snyder 435 

Staymnn's  Early 435 

Stone  8  Hardy .  4.35 

Taylors  Prolific ^445 

Wallace 435 

Wachnsctt  Thornless !4;J5 

Western  Triumph 436 

Wilson's  Early 435 

Clieni-les. 

Apple 390 

Brlle  de  Clioisy 392 

Belle   d'Orlcans ..!..388 

Belle  Magnifique 3i)2 

Bi<rnnvau. 390 

I  Black  Eagle '.  ^ssg 

I  Black  Tartarian 388 

I  Carnaiioii 392 

I  Cleveland  Bigarrcau .!.3!t0 

'  Coe's  Transparent 388 

Delicate 3gg 

Donna  Maria [392 

Downer's  Late  Red 389 

Early  Richmond  .3!»a 

Elklwrn 391 

Elton 3,s9 

1  Empress  Eugenie .  393 

1  English 394 

(Jovcrnor  Wood ;i89 

1   (ireat  Bigarreau 390 

:  Gri.lley 3iK) 

\  Knight's  Early  Black 38!) 

Large  Purple  Guigiie 389 

I  Late  Duke 393 

,  Li(b 393 

!  Louis  Philippe 393 

May  Duke 393 

I   Monstreiisc  de  Mezel .390 

Montmorency  Lartre-fruited 393 

Moiitinorency  Ordinaire .393 

I  Morello 3«)4 

Napoleon  Bigarreau 300 

Ohio  Beauty 38O 


51;j 


Olivet  394 

Ked  Jacket 391 

Reine  Hortense .394 

Rockport  Bigarreau 391 

Royai  Ann    390 

Royal  Duke 394 

Tiadescaiii's  Black  Heart 391 

Windsor 39'! 

Yellow  Spanish 390 

Ohestnuts. 

American  Chestnut 460 

Chinquapin 4f;() 

Dwarf  Chestnut 460 

Marron 460 

Marmn  de  Lyon 460 

Spanish  Chestnut 460 

Currants. 

Black  Naples 419 

Cherry 419 

Fay's  Prolific 419 

La  Versaillaise 420 

Lee's  Black  Prolific 4-iO 

Long-Bunched  Red 420 

Prince  Alhert 420 

Rt'dDulch 420 

Short-Bunched  Red 420 

White  Dutch 42i) 

White  Grape 420 

Figs. 

Adam 455 

Angelica "155 

Augeliqiie 455 

Brown  Ischia 455 

Brown  Turkey — 455 

Brunswick 455 

Early  Violet 455 

Pregussata 455 

White  Genoa 455 

Filberts. 

Coburg 4(;0 

Cosford 460 

Dwarf  Prolific 460 

Frizzled 461 

Red-Skinned 461 

White 461 

Gooseberries. 

English  Varieties 421 

A  merican  Varieties 421 

American  Seedling 421 

Downing 431 

Houghton's  Seedling 421 

PaleRed 421 

Smith's  Improved 421 

Orapes. 
Foreign  Vaiieties— Black  or  Pu)-ple.A50 

Foreign  Varieties— Red 452 

Fotrign  Varieties—  White. 452 

Native  Varieties-  Black 43t) 

Nalim  Varieties— Red 440 

Native  Varieties- New  &  Untested.  A4^ 

Native  Varieties—  White 443 

Adirondack 445 

Agawam 440 

Alicante 450 

Allen's  Hybrid 445 


Amber  Queen           ,.   ... 

445 

4.50 

....  450 

August  Giant. 

445 

446 

Barry 

436 

....  450 

446 

446 

Black  Frontigiian 

Black  Hamhurah. 

450 

.     451 

lUack  Ralesline  

Bowood  Muscat 

Brighton 

Buckland's  Sweetwater 

450 

..    ..452 
..    ..440 

452 

..    ..446 

Carlotta 

.450 

440 

Centennial 

446 

Champion 

437 

Champion  Hamburgh 

Chasselas  de  FaUonx 

Chasse/as  de  Fontainbleau 

Chasselas  Musque 

Christine 

451 

452 

....453 

452 

439 

Clinton        

..       437 

Concord 

437 

437 

Croton 

Cynthiana        

....  446 
437 

441 

Diana 

441 

Duchess 

443 

Et.-ly  Dawn 

447 

Early  Silver  Prontignan 

Early  Smyrna  Frontignan 

Early  Victory 

4.53 

453 

447 

447 

Elsinbur^h 

..   ..4B7 

Elvira 

447 

448 

Essex 

...  438 

450 

438 

Foster's  White  Seedling 

Gaertner 

453 

442 

453 

Giethe 

.     442 

Golden  Cliampion 

Golden  Drop 

Golden  Hamburgh 

(irizzly  Frontignan 

453 

447 

453 

..    ..4.52 
451 

451 

Harrison        

450 

Hartford  Prolific 

4W 

438 

Highland         

447 

lAk 

....  4.50 
442 

Isabella    

.  4.38 

Ives 

4.39 

439 

Janesville 

448 

INDEX. 


613 


Jessica... 448 

Jiiiu  Muscat 451 

Lmly 443 

Lady  Dowiie's 451 

Lady  VVasliiiij'Um 443 

Lexin<;toii 450 

Liiuiuii 450 

Liiidlcy ...  442 

Mailhu 444 

M.-i.^saj^oif 442 

Maxalawney 444 

Muirimack 43'.f 

Monioc 439 

Moore's  Karly 439 

Mrs.  Prince's  Black  Muscat 452 

Miib^cat  d'  Aoiil 451 

Muscat  Hambursjh 451 

M  iiscat  Lierval 451 

Muscat  Noir 450 

Muscat  St.  Laurent .450 

Naomi 448 

Niasjara 444 

Noah 448 

Norton's  Virginia 439 

Norwood 449 

Oneida 449 

Ontario 449 

Oriental ..44^ 

Olhello 449 

Pocklin-jton 444 

Prentiss 444 

Pri mavis  Frontisnan 453 

Purple  Consiantia  452 

Rel)ecca 444 

Rochester 442 

Rockin<rhnm 450 

Roijers'  No.  1 442 

Rogers'  No.  3 442 

Rogers' No.  4 +10 

Rogers'  No.  14 442 

Rogers'  No.  15 440 

Rogers'  No.  19 4:59 

Rogers'  No.  41 4:i8 

Rogers'  No.  43 430 

Rogers'  No.  44 4;« 

Rogers'  No.  m 443 

Rose  Cliasselas 452 

Royal  Muscadine 453 

Salem 443 

Senasqna 449 

Syrian 454 

TaUmap*s  Seedling 437 

Telegraph 439 

To  Kalon 449 

Trenthain  Black 4.52 

Triumph 449 

Union  Village 449 

Vergennes 4.'i0 

Victoria 4.'j0 

Walter 450 

Waverlv 450 

White  Frontignan 454 

White  Muscat  of  Alexandria 4.54 

White  Nice 4.'>i 

Wilder 440 

Wilmington  Red 4.50 

Worden 440 

Wyoming  Red 400 


ITIalberrles. 

Black 436 

Everix-aring 436 

Johnson. 436 

Nectarines. 

BosI  on 395 

Dowiilon 395 

Eiirlv  Newington 395 

Early  Violet 395 

Elriige 395 

Hardwicke's  Seedling 395 

Hunt's  Tawny 395 

Lord  Napier 396 

Lucombe's  Black 395 

Pitmaston  Orange 396 

Red  Roman 396 

Rivers'  Orange  396 

Stanwick 396 

Victoria 396 

Yidette  Halive 395 

Oranges  and  other  Tropical 
Fruits. 

Bergamot 457 

Chinese 457 

Citrus  Decutnana 457 

Citrus  Linxetta 458 

Citrus  Limonium 458 

Custard  Apple 459 

Havana 457 

Lemon 458 

Lime 458 

Malta  Blood 457 

Maltese 457 

Mandarin 457 

•  Myrtle-Leaved 457 

Otaheite 457 

Pomegranate 458 

Pawpaw 459 

St.  Augustine 456 

St.  Michaels  457 

Shaddock 457 

Tangerine 457 

Variegfttert-Leaved 457 

Peacbes. 

Alexander 397 

Alexander  Noblesse 397 

Barnard's  Tellow ...  409 

Beer's  Smock 397 

Bcllegarde  397 

Bergen's  Yellow 397 

Bitlyeu's  Comet 397 

Bi  1  lyeu's  Late  October 397 

Chinese  Cling 397 

Cole's  Early  Red 398 

Cohimbia .398 

('ooledge's  Favorite 398 

Conkliliix 39S 

Crawford's  Early 398 

Crawford  s  Late 398 

Crimson  Galande 398 

Druid  Hill 39!» 

Early  Beatrice 399 

E.irly  Louise 399 

EarlV  Newington  Freestone 899 

Early  Rivers 399 

Karti/  Royal  George 397 

fiarlj  Silver 4W 


514 


INDEX. 


Early  Tillotson 400 

Eaily  York ,...400 

Flat  Pc,;icli  of  China 405 

Fleita'8 400 

Foster 400 

Freaman  .  400 

George  the  Fourth 400 

Goshawk 401 

Grosse  Mi>;uouiie 401 

Haines'  Early 401 

Hale's  Early 401 

Heath  Cliii!,' 401 

Heaih  Free .402 

Hill's  Chili .401 

Honest  John 402 

Indian  Blood 402 

Indian  Peach 39S 

Jacques'  Rareripe 402 

Kenrick's  Heath 402 

Keyport  Wliite 402 

Lady  Parhani 402 

La  Grange 402 

Large  Early  York 402 

Large  While  Cling 403 

Late  Admirable 403 

Lemon  Cling 403 

Lord  Paimerston 403 

Magdala 403 

Malta 403 

Monstreiise  de  Done 404 

Moore's  Favorite  404 

Morris  White 404 

Morris  Wiite  Rareripe 404 

Mountain  Rose 404 

Mrs.  Brett... 404 

Nectarine    404 

Noblesse 404 

Oldmixon  Cling...   405 

Oldmixton  Freestone 405 

Peen-To 405 

Picquet's  Late 405 

President 405 

Princess  of  Wales 405 

Red-cheeked  Melocoton 405 

Reeves' Favorite 406 

Kivers'  Early  York 406 

Rodman's  Cling 406 

Sal  way 406 

Seirate  Early  York  400 

Shanghai 406 

Smock  Freebtone    406 

Snow ...    406 

Steadley 407 

Stump  the  World 407 

Surpasse  Melocoton 407 

Susquehanna 407 

Teton  de  Venus 403 

Thurber 407 

Tippecanoe  Cling ..407 

Troth's  Early 408 

Wager 408 

Walburton  Admirable 408 

Ward's  Late  Free 408 

Waterloo 408 

Whnatland 408 

Yellow  Alberge 409 

Yellow  Rareripe 409 

Yellow  St.  ^obn 400 


Pears. 

Abbott 378 

Ananas  d'  Etp 365 

Andre  Desportes 363 

Andrews .378 

Baronnc  de  Mello 366 

Bartlelt  362 

Belle  Epine  Dumas 374 

Belle  de  Flandres , 369 

Belle  Lucrative ,366 

Bergamot  Esperen 379 

Besi  de  Montigny ..   .  379 

Besi  Esperen 379 

Beurr6  Bosc .366 

Be.urre  Boussock 368 

Beurre  Brown 378 

Benrre  Clairgeau 366 

Beurr6   d'Albret 378 

Beurre  d'Araanlis 378 

Benrr6  d'Angleterre 378 

Beurr6   d'Angou 366 

Beurr6  d'Aremberg ,375 

Benrr6  de  Britrnais ,366 

Beurr6  de  I'Assoniption 378 

Bairre  de  Nanles 382 

Bemre  de  Waterloo 380 

Beurr6  Diei ,367 

Beurre  Durand 378 

Beurr6  Easter 374 

Beurre  Giffard 363 

Ben rr6  Golden  of  Bilboa 378 

Beurre  Gris  d'  Hiver  Nouveau 375 

Beurre  Hardy 367 

Beurr6  Maxion 378 

Beurre  Moire 379 

Beurre  Picquery 374 

Beurr6  Superfln .367 

Black  Worcester 379 

Bloodgood 363 

Bonne  de  Malines 377 

Bonne  de  Puits  Ansault 367 

Brandywine .363 

Buffum 368 

Butter  Pear 369 

Ca;n  de  France 379 

Catillac 379 

Chinese  Pear 371 

Church 379 

Clapp's  Favorite 363 

Coil's  Beurr6 379 

Columbia ,375 

Conite  de  Flandre 379 

Comtesse  de  Lumay 379 

Conseiller  de  la  Coiir 372 

Dana's  Hovey 375 

D'Alencon 3'5 

Dearborn's  Seedling 363 

Des  Nonnes .  ..366 

De  Tongres ,380 

Dix .380 

Doctor  Lindley 380 

Doctor  Reeder 368 

Doyenne  Boussock 368 

Doyenn6  d'  Alencon 375 

Doyenn6   d'Et6 364 

Doyenne  d' Hiver 374 

Doyenne   d' Hiver  d"  Alengon 375 

Doyenn6  du  Com jce 368 


INDEX. 


615 


Doyenii6  Gray 368 

DoyemiR  White 309 

Ducd'  Aremberg 375 

Due  de  Boi'deavx 374 

Due  (Ic  Brabant 380 

Dnchessc  (rAii<?oulenie 369 

Duchesse  tie  Borry  U'  Etc 364 

Duchesse  d'Oiieans 380 

Duchusse  Piecoce 36!> 

Diihainel  dii  Monceau 37(; 

Edmunds 380 

Emile  de  Heyst 3()9 

Eugene  Appert 380 

Flem-eh  Beauty 3ti9 

Fondante  Bihorel 380 

Fondante  d' Autotnne 366 

Frederick  Clapp 370 

Fulton 370 

Gansel's  Bersamot 381 

GansePs  Scclccl 3«1 

General  Taylor .381 

General  Totlebcn 381 

Glout  Morceau 376 

Qratioli  of  Jersey 381 

Gregoire  Bordillon 381 

Ileuri  Desportes 381 

Henry  the  Fourth 381 

Hoosic 370 

Howell 370 

Jalousie  de  Foutenay  Vendes 381 

Jones 371 

Josephine  de  Malines 376 

Jules  Bi vort 381 

Keiffer 371 

Kingsessins 38-3 

Kirtland 371 

Lawrence  376 

Le  Conte 371 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey 372 

Madam  Eliza 382 

Madelaiue 364 

Manning's  Elizabeth 3()4 

Marechal  de  la  Cour 372 

Marie  Benoist 382 

Marie  Louise 382 

Mario  Louise  d'  Uccles 382 

Maurice  Desportes 382 

Merriain 372 

Mount  Vernon 376 

Nantais 382 

NePlusMeuris 366 

Nouveau  Poiteau 382 

Onondaga 372 

Osband's  Summer 364 

Oswego  Beurre 382 

Ott..: li^i 

Paradise  d' Automnc 372 

Petite  Marguerite 364 

Pitmaston  Duchess 373 

Pius  the  9th  383 

Plait 383 

Pound 377 

Pratt 373 

President  Mas 383 

Rapelje's  Seedling 38.3 

Rosteizer 365 

Rutter .383 

Seckel 373 


Sheldon 373 

Souvenir  d'Espiiren !'..... 383 

Souvi'iiirdu  Congres 365 

St.  Ciliisluin 383 

St.  Michael  Archangel 3&3 

I  b't.  A'icholas 380 

Stevens' Genesee 373 

i  Hiiinmer  Vergalieu 3(J4 

Swan's  Orange 372 

i  'I'J'-"" 365 

Uibaiiiste 374 

I  UredaWs  St.  Germam 377 

I   Verga/ieu 369 

Vicar  of  Winkfleld 377 

Wa:<hington 374 

j  WiUiunvi'  Bonchretien 362 

Winter  Nelis 377 

Planis. 

Autumn  Gage ...410 

Belle  de  Septembre 416 

Bleecker's  Gage 411 

Blue  Iniperatrice 4U 


Bnulsha 


.411 


Bryanton's   Gage 411 

Coe's  Golden  Drop 411 

Cohimbia 411 

De  Caradcuc 418 

Denniston's  Superb 411 

Duane's  Purple 412 

Fellemberg 412 

General  Hand 412 

German  Prune 412 

Goliath 412 

Green  Gage 412 

Huling's  Superb  412 

Ickworth  Imperatrice 413 

Imperial  Gage 413 

Jefterson 41S 

!  July  Green  Gage 413 

I  Langdon 418 

Lawrence's  Favorite  413 

Lombard 414 

I  Lncomb's  Nonsuch 414 

i  Magnum  Bonum,  Yellow 414 

McLaughlin 414 

Miner 418 

Munroe  Gage 414 

Newman 418 

Ontario  414 

Orange 414 

Orleans 415 

Oulin's  Golden  Gage 415 

Pond's  Seedling 415 

Prince  Enirlebert 415 

Prince's  Yellow  Gage 415 

Prune  d'A>ren 415 

Qiiackenboss 415 

Reine  Claude  de  Bavay 416 

Saint  Catherine 416 

Saint  Lawrence 416 

Shropshire  Damson 416 

Smilli's  Orleans 416 

Victoria 416 

WaL'iMihciin 41« 

Washinirion 116 

W.-aver 418 

Wild  Goose 418 


516 


INDEX. 


Tellow  Gage iVt 

Qaliioes. 

Apple  Shaped  or  Orauste 384 

Angers 384 

Chainpioii 385 

Chinese 385 

Japan 385 


Pear-Sliaped.. 
Portugal 
Kea's  Seedlinj] 


.385 


Raspberries. 

American  Blaclc  Cap 423 

Banmforth's  Seedling 426 

Belle  de  Pontenay 425 

Belle  de  Palluau 422 

Brandywine 423 

Bnnckle's  Orange 423 

Caroline 423 

Clarke 422 

Crimson  Beauty 426 

Cuthbert  4*4 

Doolittle 423 

Fastolf        422 

Franconia 422 

French. 422 

Gregg 421 

Hansel! 426 

Herstine 422 

Highland  Hardy 424 

Hopkins 426 

Hornet 422 

Hudson  River  Antwerp 422 

JoslynV  Black  Cap 423 

Knevel t's  Giant 423 

Lost  Rubies 426 

Mammoth  Cluster 424 

Marlboro  426 

McCormick 424 

Mervillo  des  Qnartre  Saisons 425 

Miami 424 

Monlclair 426 

Ohio  Everbearing 425 

Orange 423 

Parncll 423 

Pliiladelpliia 424 

Queen  of  tlie  Market  424 

Red  Antwerp 423 

Red  Antwerp  of  the  Hudson  River  .422 

Reliance 424 

Seneca  Black  Cap 424 

Shaffer's  Colossal 426 

Souhegan 425 

Superb 427 

Susqueco 42.3 

Thwack 425 

Turner 425 

Tyler 427 

Vice-President  French 422 

Victoria 42;i 

Welsh 427 

StraTFberries. 

Mltiih'  Vdrlflies 430 

Anil  I /nil)  Vnr/eties 427 

Foividii  Vmifties 430 

HauUjoi6  Varieties 431 


IVew  Varieties 431 

Alpine  Busli 430 

Alpine  Wood 430 

Auiuninal  Galande .431 

BeKe  Bordelaise 431 

Bidwell 427 

BiiiBob 433 

Black  Defiance 431 

Boyden's  No.  2X1  433 

Captain  Jack 431 

Charles  Downing 427 

Crescent  Seedling 427 

Crystal  City 432 

Cumberland  Triumph 428 

Diichesse 428 

Duncan 432 

Early  Canada 433 

Finch's  Prolific 433 

Forest  Rose 432 

Golden  Defiance 432 

Golden  Queen 430 

Great  American , 438 

Green  Prolific 428 

Gypsy 433 

Halt's  Minnesota 433 

Hervey  Davis 432 

Hovey 428 

James  Vick 433 

Jersey  Queen 432 

Jucunda 430 

Kentucky 428 

Kirknood 433 

Lennig's  White.... 428 

Longfellow 432 

Mai  Chester 433 

Miner's  Great  Prolific ...433 

Monarch  of  the  West 429 

Monstrous  Hautbois 431 

Montreuil 431 

Mount  Vernon 433 

Neunan's  Prolific 429 

Nicanor 429 

Nigh's  Superb 433 

Oliver  Goldsmith 433 

Phelps'  Seedling 433 

Pioneer 433 

Piper's  Seedling 433 

President  Wilder 429 

Prime 433 

Pronty's  Seedling.   433 

Royal  Haul bois 431 

Seneca  Queen 433 

Seth  Boyden 4^3 

Sharpl  ss.... 429 

Triomphede  Gand 430 

Triple  Crown 4X3 

TroUope's  Victoria 430 

Warren 433 

Wilson's  Albany 429 

Windsor  Chief. 430 

iraliiiits. 

Black  Walnut 461 

Butternut 461 

Dwarf  Prolific  Walnut 461 

EuL'lish  Walnut 461 

Hickory  Nut 461 

Madeira  Nut j>tf>ktj--461 


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and  Cure,  Marketing  and  Manufacture.  A  practical  handbook 
on  the  most  approved  methods  in  growing,  harvesting,  curing,, 
packing  and  selling  tobacco,  with  an  account  of  the  opera- 
tions in  every  department  of  tobacco  manufacture.  The 
contents  of  this  book  are  based  on  actual  experiments  in  field, 
curing  barn,  packing  house,  factory  and  laboratory.  It  is  the 
only  work  of  the  kind  in  existence,  and  is  destined  to  be  the 
standard  practical  and  scientific  authority  on  the  whole  sub- 
ject of  tobacco  for  many  years.  506  pages  and  150  on^inal 
engravings.    ^^^^  inches.    Cloth $2.00 


The  Nut  Culturist 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  A  treatise  on  the  propagation, 
planting  and  cultivation  of  nut-bearing  trees  and  shrub:: 
adapted  to  the  climate  of  the  United  States,  with  the  scien- 
tific and  comman  names  of  the  fruits  known  in  commerce  as 
edible  or  otherwise  useful  nuts.  Intended  to  aid  the  farmer 
to  increase  his  income  without  adding  to  his  expenses  or 
labor.     Cloth,  i2mo $1.50 


Cranberry  Culture 

By  Joseph  J.  White.  Contents:  Natural  historj',  history 
of  cultivation,  choice  of  location,  preparing  the  ground,  plant- 
ing the  vines,  management  of  meadows,  flooding,  enemies 
and  difficulties  overcome,  picking,  keeping,  profit  and  loss. 
Illustrated.     132  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth.       .       .      $1.00 


Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans 

By  Elias  a.  Long,  landscape  architect.  A  treatise  on 
beautifying  homes,  rural  districts  and  cemeteries.  A  plain 
and  practical  work  with  numerous  illustrations  and  instruc- 
tions so  plain  that  they  may  be  readily  followed.  Illustrated. 
390  pages.    5x7  inches.     Cloth $1.50 

Grape  Culturist 

By  A.  S.  Fuller.  This  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  works 
on  the  culture  of  the  hardy  grapes,  with  full  directions  for 
all  departments  of  propagation,  culture,  etc.,  with  150  excellent 
engravings,  illustrating  planting,  training,  grafting,  etc. 
282  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth $1.50 

Gardening  for  Young  and  Old 

By  Joseph  Harris.  A  work  intended  to  interest  farmers' 
boys  in  farm  gardening,  which  means  a  better  and  more  profit- 
able form  of  agriculture.  The  teachings  are  given  in  the 
familiar  manner  so  well  known  in  the  author's  "  Walks  and 
Talks  on  the  Farm."  Illustrated.  191  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.00 

Money  in  the  Garden 

By  P.  T.  QuiNN.  The  author  gives  in  a  plain,  practical 
style  instructions  on  three  distinct,  although  closely  connected, 
branches  of  gardening — the  kitchen  garden,  market  garden  and 
field  culture,  from  successful  practical  experience  for  a  term 
ot  years.    Illustrated.    268  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      $1.00 


Alfalfa 

By  F.  D.  CoBURN.  Its  growth,  uses,  and  feeding  value. 
The  fact  that  alfalfa  thrives  in  almost  any  soil;  that  without 
reseeding,  it  goes  on  yielding  two,  three,  four,  and  sometimes 
five  cuttings  annually  for  five,  ten,  or  perhaps  lOO  years ;  and 
that  either  green  or  cured  it  is  one  of  the  most  nutritious 
forage  plants  known,  makes  reliable  information  upon  its  pro- 
duction and  uses  of  unusual  interest.  Such  information  is 
given  in  this  volume  for  every  part  of  America,  by  the  highest 
authority.    Illustrated.    164  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.    $0.50 

Ginseng,  Its  Cultivation,   Harvesting,  Market- 
ing and  Market  Value 

By  Maurice  G.  Kains,  with  a  short  account  of  its  history 
and  botany.  It  discusses  in  a  practical  way  how  to  begin  with 
either  seed  or  roots,  soil,  climate  and  location,  preparation, 
planting  and  maintenance  of  the  beds,  artificial  propagation, 
manures,  enemies,  selection  for  market  and  for  improvement, 
preparation  for  sale,  and  the  profits  that  may  be  expected. 
This  booklet  is  concisely  written,  well  and  profusely  illus- 
trated, and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  expect  to  grow 
this  drug  to  supply  the  export  trade,  and  to  add  a  new  and 
profitable  industry  to  their  farms  and  gardens,  without  inter- 
fering with  the  regular  work.  New  edition.  Revised  and  en- 
larged.    Illustrated.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.       .       .       .      $0.50 

Landscape  Gardening 

By  F.  A.  Waugh,  professor  of  horticulture,  university  of 
Vermont.  A  treatise  on  the  general  principles  governing 
outdoor  art;  with  sundry  suggestions  for  their  application 
in  the  commoner  problems  of  gadening.  Every  paragraph  is 
short,  terse  and  to  the  point,  giving  perfect  clearness  to  the 
discussions  at  all  points.  In  spite  of  the  natural  difficulty 
of  presenting  abstract  principles  the  whole  matter  is  made 
^entirely  plain  even  to  the  inexperienced  reader.  Illustrated. 
152  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth $0.50 

Hedges,  Windbreaks,  Shelters  and  Live  Fences 

By  E.  P.  Powell.  A  treatise  on  the  planting,  growth 
and  management  of  hedge  plants  for  country  and  suburban 
homes.  It  gives  accurate  directions  concerning  hedges;  how 
to  plant  and  how  to  treat  them;  and  especially  concerning 
windbreaks  and  shelters.  It  includes  the  whole  art  of  making 
a  delightful  home,  giving  directions  for  nooks  and  balconies, 
for  bird  culture  and  for  human  comfort.  Illustrated.  140 
pages,    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      ,      ,      ♦      t      .      .      $0.50 


Greenhouse  Construction 

By  Prof.  L.  R.  Taft.  A  complete  treatise  on  greenlioiise 
structures  and  arrangements  of  the  various  forms  and  styles 
of  plant  houses  for  professional  Horists  as  well  as  amateurs. 
All  the  hest  and  most  approved  structures  are  so  fully  and 
clearly  descrihed  that  any  one  who  desires  to  build  a  green- 
house' will  have  no  difficulty  in  determining  the  kind  best 
suited  to  his  purpose.  The  modern  and  most  successful  meth- 
ods of  heating  and  ventilating  are  fully  treated  upon.  Special 
chapters  are  devoted  to  houses  used  for  the  growing  of  one 
kind  of  plants  exclusively.  The  construction  of  hotbeds  and 
frames  receives  appropriate  attention.  Over  lOO  excellent 
illustrations,  especially  engraved  for  this  work,  make  every 
point  clear  to  the  reader  and  add  considerably  to  the  artistic 
appearance  of  the  book.    210  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.  $1.50 

Greenhouse  Management 

By  L.  R.  Taft.  This  book  forms  an  almost  indispensable 
companion  volume  to  Greenhouse  Construction.  In  it  the 
author  gives  the  results  of  his  many  years'  experience,  together 
with  that  of  the  most  successful  florists  and  gardeners,  in  the 
management  of  growing  plants  under  glass.  So  minute  and 
practical  are  the  various  systems  and  methods  of  growing 
and  forcing  roses,  violets,  carnations,  and  all  the  most  impor- 
tant florists'  plants,  as  well  as  fruits  and  vegetables  described, 
that  by  a  careful  study  of  this  work  and  the  following  of  its 
teachings,  failure  is  almost  impossible.  Illustrated.  382  pages. 
5x7  inches.    Cloth $1.50 

Fungi  and  Fungicides 

By  Prof.  Clarence  M.  Weed.  A  practicil  manual  con- 
cerning the  fungous  diseases  of  cultivated  plants  and  the 
means  of  preventing  their  ravages.  The  author  has  endeav- 
ored to  give  such  a  concise  account  of  the  »T.ost  important 
facts  relating  to  these  as  will  enable  the  cultivator  to  combat 
them  intelligently.  90  illustrations.  222  f&gcs.  5x7  inches. 
Paper,   50   cents;    cloth $1.00 


Mushrooms.     How  to  Grow  Them 

By  William  Falconer.  This  is  the  mos'.  p  Actical  M'ork 
on  the  subject  ever  written,  and  the  only  Ivck  on  growing 
mushrooms  published  in  America.  The  autl".w  describes  how 
he  grows  mushrooms,  and  how  they  are  gfy-n  for  profit  by 
the  leading  market  gardeners,  and  for  homn  Jse  by  the  most 
successful  private  growers.  Engravings  dv;iwn  from  nature 
expressly  for  this  work.  170  pages.   5x7  inches.  Cloth.    $i.oq 


Land  Draining 

A  handbook  for  farmers  on  the  principles  and  practice  o't 
draining,  by  Manly  Miles,  giving  the  results  of  his  extended 
experience  in  laying  tile  drains.  The  directions  for  the  laying 
out  and  the  construction  of  tile  drains  will  enable  the  farmer 
to  avoid  the  errors  of  imperfect  construction,  and  the  disap- 
pointment that  must  necessarily  follow.  This  manual  for 
practical  farmers  will  also  be  found  convenient  for  reference 
in  regard  to  many  questions  that  may  arise  in  crop  growing, 
aside  from  the  special  subjects  of  drainage  of  which  it  treats. 
Illustrated.     200  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth.       .       .       $1.00 

Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings 

Two  hundred  and  fifty-seven  illustration.';.  A  most  valu- 
able work,  full  of  ideas,  hints,  suggestions,  plans,  etc.,  for  the 
construction  of  barns  and  outbuildings,  by  practical  writers. 
Chapters  are  devoted  to  the  economic  erection  and  use  of 
barns,  grain  barns,  horse  barns,  cattle  barns,  sheep  barns,  corn- 
houses,  smokehouses,  icehouses,  pig  pens,  granaries,  etc. 
There  are  likewise  chapters  on  birdhouses,  doghouses,  tool 
sheds,  ventilators,  roofs  and  roofing,  doors  and  fastenings, 
workshops,  poultry  houses,  manure  sheds,  barnyards,  root  pits, 
etc.    235  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth $1.00 

Irrigation  Farming 

By  Lute  Wilcox.  A  handbook  for  the  prart'cal  applica- 
tion of  water  in  the  production  of  crops.  A  complete  treatise 
on  »vater  supply,  canal  construction,  reservoirs  and  ponds, 
pipes  for  irrigation  purposes,  flumes  and  their  structure, 
methods  of  applying  water,  irrigation  of  field  crops,  the 
garden,  the  orchard  and  vineyard,  windmills  and  pumps 
appliances  and  contrivances.  New  edition,  revised,  enlarged 
and  rewritten.  Profusely  illustrated.  Over  500  pages.  5x7 
inches.     Cloth $2.oc 

Forest  Planting 

By  H.  Nicholas  Jarchow,  LL.  D.  A  treatise  on  the  car* 
of  woodlands  and  the  restoration  of  the  denuded  timberlanda 
on  plains  and  mountains.  The  author  has  ful'y  described 
those  European  methods  which  have  proved  to  be  most  useful 
in  maintaining  the  superb  forests  of  the  old  world.  This  expe- 
rience has  been  adapted  tc  the  different  climates  and  trees  of 
America,  full  instructions  being  given  for  forest  planting  of 
our  various  kinds  of  soil  and  subsoil,  whettier  on  mountain 
or  valley.    Illustrated.,  259  pages,    5x7incties.    Cloth.    $1.50 


Cabbage,  Cauliflower  and  Allied  Vegetables 

By  C.  L.  Allen.  A  practical  treatise  on  the  various 
types  and  varieties  of  cabbage,  cauliflower,  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  kale,  coUards  and  kohl-rabi.  An  explanation  is  given 
of  the  requirements,  conditions,  cultivation  and  general 
management  pertaining  to  the  entire  cabbage  group.  After  this 
each  class  is  treated  separately  and  in  detail.  The  chapter 
on  seed  raising  is  probably  the  most  authoritative  treatise  on 
this  subject  ever  published.  Insects  and  fungi  attacking  this 
class  of  vegetables  are  given  due  attention.  Illustrated.  126 
pages.    5x7  inches.      Cloth $0,50 

Asparagus 

By  F.  M.  Hexamer.  This  js  the  first  book  published  in 
America  which  is  exclusively  devoted  to  the  raising  of  aspara- 
gus for  home  use  as  well  as  for  market.  It  is  a  practical 
and  reliable  treatise  on  the  saving  of  the  seed,  raising  of  the 
plants,  selection  and  preparation  of  the  soil,  planting,  cultiva- 
tion, manuring,  cutting,  bunching,  packing,  marketing,  canning 
and  drying,  insect  enemies,  fungous  diseases  and  every  require- 
ment to  successful  asparagus  culture,  special  emphasis  being 
given  to  the  importance  of  asparagus  as  a  farm  and  money 
crop.    Illustrated.    174  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      .      $0.50 

The  New  Onion  Culture 

By  T.  Greiner.  Rewritten,  greatly  enlarged  and  brought 
up  to  date.  A  new  method  of  growing  onions  of  largest  size 
and  yield,  on  less  land,  than  can  be  raised  by  the  old  plan. 
Thousands  of  farmers  and  gardeners  and  many  experiment 
stations  have  given  it  practical  trials  which  have  proved  a 
success.  A  complete  guide  in  growing  onions  with  the  great- 
est profit,  explaining  the  whys  and  wherefores.  Illustrated. 
5x7  inches.     140  pages.     Cloth $0,50 

The  New  Rhubarb  Culture 

A  complete  guide  to  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part 
I — By  J.  E.  Morse,  the  well-known  Michigan  trucker  and 
originator  of  the  now  famous  and  extremely  profitable  new 
methods  of  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part  II — Compiled 
by  G.  B.  Fiske.  Other  methods  practiced  by  the  most  experi- 
enced market  gardeners,  greenhouse  men  and  experimenters  in 
all  parts  of  America.  Illustrated.  130  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth.  ^      ^.      ..       .       .      ..      ...      ....       $0.50 


Coburn's  Swine  Husbandry 

By  F.  D.  CoBURN.  New,  revised  and  enlarged  edition. 
The  breeding,  rearing  and  management  of  swine,  and  tlie 
prevention  and  treatment  of  their  diseases.  It  is  the  fullest 
and  freshest  compendium  relating  to  swine  breeding  yet 
offered.    Illustrated.    312  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      $1.50 

Home  Pork  Making 

The  art  of  raising  and  curing  pork  on  the  farm.  By 
A.  W.  Fulton.  A  complete  guide  for  the  farmer,  the  country 
butcher  and  the  suburban  dweller,  in  all  that  pertains  to  hog 
slaughtering,  curing,  preserving  and  storing  pork  product — 
from  scalding  vat  to  kitchen  table  and  dining  room.  Illus- 
trated.    125  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.        .       .       .      $0.50 

Harris  on  the  Pig 

By  Joseph  Harris.  New  edition.  Revised  and  enlarged 
by  the  author.  The  points  of  the  various  English  and  Ameri- 
can breeds  are  thoroughly  discussed,  and  the  great  advantage 
of  using  thoroughbred  males  clearly  shown.  The  work  is 
equally  valuable  to  the  farmer  who  keeps  but  a  few  pigs,  and 
to  the  breeder  on  an  extensive  scale.  Illustrated.  318  pages. 
5x7  inches.    Cloth $1.00 

The  Dairyman's  Manual 

By  Henry  Stewart,  author  of  the  "  Shepherd's  Manual," 
"  Irrigation,"  etc.  A  useful  and  practical  work,  by  a  writer 
who  is  well  known  as  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  subject 
of  which  he  writes.  Illustrated.  475  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.50 

Feeds  and  Feeding 

By  W.  A.  Henry.  This  handbook  for  students  and  stock- 
men constitutes  a  compendium  of  practical  and  useful  knowl- 
edge on  plant  growth  and  animal  nutrition,  feeding  stuffs, 
feeding  animals  and  every  detail  pertaining  to  this  important 
subject.  It  is  thorough,  accurate  and  reliable,  and  is  the  most 
valuable  contribution  to  live  stock  literature  in  many  years. 
All  the  latest  and  best  information  is  clearly  and  systematically 
presented,  making  the  work  indispensable  to  every  owner  of 
live  stock.     658  pages.     6x9  inches.     Cloth.,      ..      .      $2.00 


Successful  Fruit  Culture 

By  Samuel  T.  Maynard.  A  practical  gftiidc  to  the  ciiUI- 
vation  and  propagation  of  Fruits,  written  from  the  standpoint 
of  the  practical  fruit  grower  who  is  striving  to  make  his 
business  profitable  bj'  growing  the  best  fruit  possible  and  at 
the  least  cost.  It  is  up-to-date  in  every  particular,  and  covers 
the  entire  practice  of  fruit  culture,  harvesting,  storing,  mar- 
keting, forcing,  best  varieties,  etc.,  etc.  It  deals  with  principles 
first  and  with  the  practice  aftervv-ards,  as  the  foundation,  prin- 
ciples of  plant  growth  and  nourishment  must  always  remain 
the  same,  while  practice  will  vary  according  to  the  fruit 
grower's  immediate  conditions  and  environments.  Illustrated. 
265  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth $1.00 

Plums  and  Plum  Culture 

By  F.  A.  Waugh.  A  complete  manual  tbr  fruit  growei.'?. 
nurserymen,  farmers  and  gardeners,  on  all  known  varieties 
of  plums  and  their  successful  management.  This  book  marks 
an  epoch  in  the  horticultural  literature  of  America.  It  is  a 
complete  monograph  of  the  plums  cultivated  in  and  indigenous 
to  North  America.  It  will  be  found  indispensable  to  the 
scientist  seeking  the  most  recent  and  authoritative  informa- 
tion concerning  this  group,  to  the  nurseryman  who  wishes  to 
handle  his  varieties  accurately  and  intellingcntly,  and  to  the 
cultivator  who  would  like  to  grow  plums  successfully.  Illus- 
trated.    391  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth,       .       .       .       $1.50 

Fruit  Harvesting,  Storing,  Marketing 

By  F.  A.  Waugh.  A  practical  giiide  to  the  picking,  stor- 
ing, shipping  and  marketing  of  fruit.  The  principal  subjects 
covered  are  the  fruit  market,  fruit  picking,  sorting  and  pack- 
ing, the  fruit  storage,  evaporating,  canning,  statistics  of  the 
fruit  trade,  fruit  package  laws,  commission  dealers  and  dealing, 
cold  storage,  etc.,  etc.  No  progressive  fruit  grower  can  aflford 
to  be  without  this  most  valuable  book.  Illustrated.  232  pages. 
5x7  inches.     Cloth $1.00 

Systematic  Pomology 

By  F.  A.  Waugti,  professor  of  horticulture  and  landscape 
gardening  in  the  Massachusetts  agricultural  college,  formerly 
of  the  imiversity  of  Vermont.  This  is  the  first  book  in  the 
English  language  which  has  ever  made  the  attempt  at  a  com- 
plete and  comprehensive  treatment  of  systematic  pomology. 
It  presents  clearly  and  in  detail  the  whole  method  by  which 
fruits  are  studied.  The  book  is  suitably  illustrated.  288  pages. 
5x7  inches.    Cloth $1.00 


Animal  Breeding 

By  Thomas  Sijaw.  Thi5  bOftk  i5  the  most  Complete  and 
comprehensive  work  ever  published  on  the  subject  of  which 
it  treats.  It  is  the  first  book  which  has  systematized  the  subject 
of  animal  breeding.  The  leading  laws  which  govern  this 
most  intricate  question  the  author  has  boldly  defined  and 
authoritatively  arranged.  The  chapters  which  he  has  written 
on  the  more  involved  features  of  the  subject,  as  sex  and  the 
relative  influence  of  parents,  should  go  far  toward  setting  at 
rest  the  wildly  speculative  views  cherished  with  reference  to 
these  questions.  The  striking  originality  in  the  treatment  of 
the  subject  is  no  less  conspicuous  than  the  superb  order  and 
regular  sequence  of  thought  from  the  beginning  to  the  end 
of  the  book.  The  book  is  intended  to  meet  the  needs  of  all 
persons  interested  in  the  breeding  and  rearing  of  live  stock. 
Illustrated.    405  pages.    5x7  inches,     Cloth.       ,       ,      $1.50 

Forage  Crops  Other  Than  Grasses 

By  Thomas  Shaw.  How  to  cultivate,  harvest  and  use 
them.  Indian  corn,  sorghum,  clover,  leguminous  plants,  crops 
of  the  brassica  genus,  the  cereals,  millet,  field  roots,  etc. 
Intensely  practical  and  reliable.  Illustrated.  287  pages.  5x7 
inches.     Cloth $1.00 

Soiling  Crops  and  the  Silo 

By  Thomas  Shaw.  The  growing  and  feeding  of  all  kinds 
of  soiling  crops,  conditions  to  which  they  are  adapted,  their 
plan  in  the  rotation,  etc.  Not  a  line  is  repeated  from  the 
Forage  Crops  book.  Best  methods  of  building  the  silo,  filling 
it  and  feeding  ensilage.  Illustrated.  364  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.50 

The  Study  of  Breeds 

By  Thomas  Shaw.  Origin,  history,  distribution,  charac- 
teristics, adaptability,  uses,  and  standards  of  excellence  of  all 
pedigreed  breeds  of  cattle,  sheep  and  swine  in  America.  The 
accepted  text  book  in  colleges,  and  the  authority  for 
farmers  and  breeders.  Illustrated.  371  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.50 

Profits  in  Poultry 

Useful  and  ornamental  breeds  and  their  profitable  man- 
agement. This  excellent  work  contains  the  combined  expe- 
rience of  a  number  of  practical  men  in  all  departments  of 
poultry  raising.  It  forms  a  unique  and  important  addition  to 
our  poultry  literature.  Profusely  illustrated.  352  pages.  5x7 
inches.     Cloth $1.00 


The  New  Egg   Farm 

By  IT.  IT.  Stodpard.  A  prncticnl,  reliable  manual  on 
producing  eggs  and  poultry  for  market  as  a  prolitable  business 
enterprise,  cither  by  itself  or  connected  with  other  branches 
of  agriculture.  It  tells  all  about  how  to  feed  and  manage, 
how  to  breed  and  select,  incubators  and  brooders,  its  labor- 
saving  devices,  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated.  331  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth.  $1.00 

Poultry  Feeding  and  Fattening 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Fiske.  A  handbook  for  poultry  keep- 
ers on  the  standard  and  improved  methods  of  feeding  and 
marketing  all  kinds  of  poultry.  The  subject  of  feeding  and 
fattening  poultry  is  prepared  largely  from  the  side  of  the 
best  practice  and  experience  here  and  abroad,  although  the 
underlying  science  of  feeding  is  explained  as  fully  as  needful. 
I'he  subject  covers  all  branches,  including  chickens,  broilers, 
capons,  turkeys  and  waterfowl ;  how  to  feed  under  various 
conditions  and  for  dififerent  purposes.  The  whole  subject  of 
capons  and  caponizing  is  treated  in  detail.  A  great  mass  of 
practical  information  and  experience  not  readily  obtainable 
elsewhere  is  given  with  full  and  explicit  directions  for  fatten- 
ing and  preparing  for  market.  This  book  will  meet  the  needs 
of  amateurs  as  well  as  commercial  poultry  raisers.  Profusely 
illustrated.     160  pages.     5x71-2  inches.     Cloth.        .       $0.50 

Poultry  Architecture 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Fiske.  A  treatise  on  poultry  buildings 
of  all  grades,  styles  and  classes,  and  their  proper  location, 
coops,  additions  and  special  construction  ;  all  practical  in  de- 
sign, and  reasonable  in  cost.  Over  100  illustrations.  125  pages. 
5x7  inches.     Cloth ^ .      $0.50 

Poultry  Appliances  and  Handicraft 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Fiske.  Illustrated  descriptions  of  a 
great  variety  and  styles  of  the  best  homemade  nests,  roosts, 
v/indows,  ventilators,  incubators  and  brooders,  feeding  and 
watering  appliances,  etc.,  etc.  Over  100  illustrations.  Over 
125  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth $0.50 

Turkeys  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

Edited  by  Herheut  Mvrick.  A  treatise  on  the  natural 
history  and  origin  of  the  name  of  turkeys;  the  various  breeds, 
the  best  methods  to  insure  success  in  the  business  of  turkey 
.u;rowing.  With  essays  from  practical  turkey  growers  in 
different  parts  of  the  United  .States  and  Canada.  Copiously 
illustrated.    154  pages.    5  x  7  inches.    Cloth    .      ,      .      $1.00 


Farmer's  Cyclopedia 
of  Agriculture    i!J    0 

(A  Compendium  of  Agricultural  Science  and  Practice 
on  Farm,  Orchard  and  Garden  Crops,  and  the 
Feeding  and  Diseases  of  Farm  Animals      :     :     •     ; 

'By   EARLEY  VERNON  WILCOX,  Ph.D. 
anJ  CLARENCE  BEAMAN  SMITH,  M.S. 

Associate  Editors  in  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations,   United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture 


THIS  is  a  new,  practical,  and  complete  pres- 
entation of  the  whole  subject  of  agricul- 
ture in  its  broadest  sense.  It  is  designed 
for  the  use  of  agriculturists  who  desire 
up-to-date,  reliable  information  on  all 
matters  pertai^iing  to  crops  and  stock,  but  more 
particularly  for  the  actual  farmer.  The  volume 
contains 

Detailed  directions  for  ^ha  culture  of  every 

important  field,  orchard,  and  garden  crop 

grown  in  America,  together  with  descriptions  of 
their  chief  insect  pests  and  fungous  diseases,  and 
remedies  for  their  control.  It  contains  an  ac- 
count of  modern  methods  in  feeding  and  handling 
all  farm  stock,  including  poultry.  The  diseases 
which  aflfect  dilTerent  farm  animals  and  poultry 
are  described,  and  the  most  recent  remedies 
suggested  for  controlling  them. 

Every  bit  of  this  vast  mass  of  new  and  useful 
information  is  authoritative,  practical,  and  easily 
found,  and  no  effort  has  been  spared  to  include 
all  desirable  details.  There  are  between  6,000 
and  7,000  topics  covered  in  these  references,  and 
it  contains  700  royal  8vo  pages  and  nearly  500 
superb  half-tone  and  other  original  illustrations, 
making  the  most  perfect  Cyclopedia  of  Agricul- 
ture ever  attempted. 

Handsomely  bound    in    cloth,   $3.50;    half  morocco 
(Vert;  sumptuous),  $4,50,  postpaid 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY,  sr-'"'--''""'^^''"''^^  * 


larcfuettQ  Building.  Chicago,  III. 


/S^r- 


